Priming & Rolling NOT Tipping Topside Paint on Hull ! - Boston Whaler 13 Restoration - Part 14
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ส.ค. 2024
- Watch how I finish coat hull by priming & rolling and NOT tipping Topside Paint. Yep, I just rolled it on! Two coats of TotalBoat two part epoxy primer and 4 coats of Interlux Perfection two part polyurethane. I was able to work around the weather (too hot and humid) for a finished product that I think is close too if not professional looking! Kudos to Russel Brown's book, Rolling Perfection who writes extensively about this technique.
You can read the written version of this article here: bit.ly/36kHavJ
Here is a list of items I used in this phase of my Boston Whaler Restoration:
TotalBoat TotalProtect amzn.to/2NELUU0
Interlux Perfection: amzn.to/31vta1x
Ridgid Random Orbital Sander amzn.to/3fBIOwP
320 Paper for Sander amzn.to/31tJYpp
Arroworthy Foam Roller tinyurl.com/y7...
Wooster T1Z Roller Cover: amzn.to/2YKzGzn
Highlights of the video if you want to skip ahead:
I'm lucky I caught a mistake at 17:05.
Russel Brown's Technique, that's at 10:05
The modified final technique I used go to 19:33
#InterluxPerfection
#RussellBrown
#TwoPartPolyurethane
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This has been awesome to see your progress. Thanks for the helpful tips, great work!
Thanks! I appreciate your support! Waiting to see if you will produce a two part polyurethane paint in the future!
Awesome work. Big help. Good narration. Very nice camera quality.
Thank you very much!
The back yard dude working under the clouds and sky ,.do it yourself , it's what I do , I support and enjoy the self help and help others idea , down to earth man to man , watching others with experience to gain experience , and stay humble .thank you sir , for taking the time to share what your doing , ,
That's probably the best compliment I have ever received, Thanks!
Beautiful paint job! Appreciate you sharing your experience with all us TH-camrs! All the best.
Thanks I thought it came out great!
Jose. I have watched every Boston whaler video at least twice. Your series has been extremely helpful. Im doing a full Reno of a 13 ft BW 1972. I learned a lot from you and I wanted to thank you very much for the great work and the fantastic videos. Sometimes its a thankless job posting videos but THANK YOU. PS. You've inspired me to videotape every step of my refit, including floor removal and new spray foam. Just sending you huge appreciation from Canada. Peace.
Good deal, I'm glad these videos have been helpful to you! You should post your videos, we can all learn from each other.
you're a legend this has helped so much. the entire series
I'm glad I was able to help you through your project!
Dang that looks great!!! It’s like a several thousand dollar paint job. You should be proud of your work 🇺🇸👍
Very proud of it lot of work but the end result is totally worth it!
Thank you Jose . I've been refitting my 1981, 13" Whaler in the driveway the last couple of months and your videos have been a big help. My keel was chewed up by years of oyster bars, there must have been 40 screw holes on the topside, the woodwork was so beat up I purchased a new interior kit, my 13-year old trailer needed a new everything. I wish I had your skills!
Charles, I'm sure you already do! A lot of this is a learning experience as I go further along. I'm glad my videos are helpful! Funny you mention the trailer, I have a video coming up soon on getting this Whaler's trailer up to snuff!
I gotta thank you so much for this series. We just began a restoration on a 1966 13' and by learning from your DIY style we have already had huge success with our refurbishment. The Florida weather has been hugely helpful. Thanks cheers Jose.
That's great feedback. I'm glad these videos have been helpful!
Man, i love this new paint....looks like it was an Awlgrip professional spray job....wow, that laid down so slick....I'm impressed...
Thanks, glad you like it!
Okay. . . so I'm late to this video but I just purchased topside paint just this week to start finishing our backyard built 20'LOA x 8' Ply on Frame Flat bottom Dory. I'm going with your no tipping method as I find that tipping is like painting your boat twice. So, we'll see how it goes. . . thanks for your down to earth videos! They are great!
Good luck! Thanks for watching. Hope you get a mirror finish!
I think you did an awesome job! I'm planning on doing some painting parts of my airplane and it's interesting to see you get such a smooth glossy finish with a roller.
I'm happy that thinning the 2 part poly worked so well!
Nice yes this is called back rolling. Works great with painting walls too. Makes a huge difference a lot of people won’t do it.
Ok cool thanks
WoW...Great video....After painting my boat with poor results twice....I watched this video and have a paint job that I'm really proud of...Several Comments on the shine it produced...Cool weather..proper mix and don't go thin..You need enough paint on the surface to flow....Many Thanks...
I'm glad that it worked for you!
just a note on spray vs roll/tip.
If you want the HIGHEST gloss it will def come from roll/tip [RT]. the atomization process of spraying effects the end product gloss and if you did a side by side the RT will always give you the best gloss final cured outcome.
One of the biggest issues when folks say '...I ended up with a mess...' is that it is VERY easy to get lulled into laying on too much paint and after the paint starts laying down after a while you find yourself walking down Sagville Boulevard.
In Jose's project here I think the bigger influence on the issues he was having was the 'breeze' it does not take a lot of air movement to quickly flash off freshly rolled out paint before it has the time to do it's dance.
Everyone please have a safe boating season this year.
Great information, thanks for passing it one.
I just binge watched Parts 11 thru 14. I bought a 93 Dauntless 15 that looks pristine. However, I made the mistake of not inspecting the bottom well. I was looking it over today to see how hard putting a keel guard would be. The old girl got run over lots of oyster beds, I guess. Several 4 and 6 inch patches not real well done about under the helm and there's scratches down the length of the hull maybe 6 inches either side of the keel. The rest of the boat is near perfect with just a very few spider cracks. Your series looks like what I'm going to need to do someday. Thanks for the detail. Now, I need the time and space to do it.
Glad you find the series helpful! For the space issue i did all my work outside under a cheap canopy and as for the time this was a a long project.
Very nicely done.
Thanks!
I finally used the total boat stuff you sold me. Didn’t need much , actually a pint covered a lot of surface. I’m gonna wait a few more days till it stops raining here in Florida to do a final sand and then get her ready for the awlcraft 2000 paint
Good deal! How many coats of primer are you going with before the Awlcraft? I'm glad you were able to use the primer, I had so much left over that would have gone to waste otherwise.
@@ExtremeDIYGuy I didn’t need it to cover the whole boat. Just spot patches in the area where I ran out .. I’m almost ready to do the awlcraft. Total is 3 between the duratec & total boat
Your inspiring me to make a TH-cam of my 1963 Boston w/ project and my many mistakes! Hahahah your boat looks fantastic thanks for taking time to share! Your the man!
Go for it, send me a link to the channel when you start! Thanks!
Just did the barrier coat primer today with ToatlBoat Total Protect. The paint in the large can settled into a watery layer on top of heavy mud like layer. I had to used a thin cut of lumber as the paint stick would have snapped. It took maybe 15 minutes of very hard stirring and scraping to work it into a smooth mix. Wore me out so much, I only had the energy to do one layer. I also learned that it takes about 42 oz mix (without thinner) to cover the hull for the first layer. Results look good but it is a little pebbly.
Fortunately, I didnt have that problem. But I also took my cans to HD and asked them to run them in the shaker machine, which probably helped a lot. Make sure to sand between coats and the pebble look should go away!
Yeah, pebbling was quite bad, which I blame on the dry hot weather. Had to grind it down with 60 grit then add a 4th layer (additional purchased quart). Finally finished the 220 grit sanding last night. I am still sore today.
Very nice, thanks for sharing. Cheers from Jacksonville Florida 🌞
Your Welcome!
Thank you again. Such a great vid series.
Thank you Steve
Excellent and informative video.
Thank you!
Excellent video Jose. Great tips and great instructional technique! Best regards from the UK...
Thank you Paul! I appreciate the positive feedback!
Top job Mate.
Thanks!
Wow! Great job
Thank you!
Looks awesome!!!
Thank you!
Thank you for your honesty!
Your welcome John
That came out great
I’m getting ready to apply high solids paint on inside
Gday mate ive done three boats so far ie painting and resto and every one i have sprayed the 2 pack on and it looks c***** . Each time i think i have stuffed it up but then like magic after about 2 hours it smooths out and the gloss comes up and after about a week it looks amazing, the last boat i did i rolled the primer 2 pack on (mainly lazy didnt want to set up gun ect ) and it came out great ,what i will do with this latest resto is roll out the top coat on the bottom of the hull and that will determine if i roll out the rest or spray on the top coat another issue is its a clinker hull not a smoothy so that might be a problem to roll as well . Always good to see another persons project with a good outcome .
Thanks, I'm extremely please with rolling it and not tipping. Havent tried spraying but the way it leveled out is perfect!
Bro, your work has been inspiring. I have been on the hunt for a whaler to restore and i love these how to vids. Great job.
Awesome! Thank you! Way more to come before I am finished but am on the tail end, thankfully!
Looks really great!!👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Thank you! Cheers!
Thanks for the video. I am about to do a similar paint job and I'm going to try these techniques
YW! Let me know how it turns out.
Good video
Thanks!
Lovely. Thank you
Your welcome
Very good 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
great vid
Thanks!
Been following this all the time, looks amazing - great job!!
Thank you very much!
Yer that looks good!,I will be using a foam roller or micro fibre roller when painting my boat basically following the same process.
Sounds great! I think you'll be pleased with the results!
Great Job! Looks Great...
Thank you! Cheers!
GREAT video!!!!
Thanks!!
I used Interlux and the rolling and tipping method. Had never done it and it turned out like glass on my '75 Silverline Skiff
I really like Interlux Paints. I am extremely pleased with the way mine came out. I'm glad yours came out great! Congrats!
Jose! Been a while since conversed. As you know, I had some issues with my hull paint. Made several repairs due to scrapes from launching and hoisting on the trailer. Those areas seemed to have settle down but I recently noticed another problem where the paint is now 'bubbling' up; very small bubbles. As you already know, I primed with the same primer you did (4 coats) then used Total Boat Topside Paint. Not sure if I want to try and fix it now and may just wait to see what happens. I'll send you a picture later via email. BTW, your boat looks great.
Thanks for the update! I'de be interested in seeing what the bubbling up looks like. That usually indicates that there is moisture underneath. I'm wondering if the topside paint itself is bubbling up or if it is coming from underneath the primer? That's worth looking into, I would also give TotalBoat a call and see what they think.
I am surprised how flat it lays down for being rolled on! 😮
It came out better than expected. If its thinned out right it will lay down really flat.
I had a similar experience.
Good to hear!
Awesome!
Thank you, cheers!
Bear in mind that painted boats need to be repainted. I’ve tried a couple of two part paints,including Perfection and found them not really any better (all considered) than One Shot sign paint (the best oil paint) with enough Penetrol to slow drying to be able to tip with the same 7” standard foam roller. True, the shine doesn’t last but it is easy to sand, which I found almost impossible with the two part paint that was good at retaining it’s shine. (Perfection was easy to sand.)
Hi wonderful watching your video very impressed need some help how do I cure spider crack please advise
Got my console finally fiberglassed to deck looks a lot better without stupid flathead screws
I dont know,,,, Ive painted lots and lots of boats, I am extremely fussy about what it comes out like, but a couple things I noted.
I use Rustoleum topside. Never ever had a problem with that paint, I do not thin it, I dont roll and tip, and I dont put a primer,, I mostly do the gloss white, and I have to say, it comes out great, , Im not exaggerating. I see all these videos and people that spent an arm and a leg on these paints, take weeks and weeks to paint a small boat like that, , I just dont get it,, of course if you want a concourse paint job, we all know what needs to be done. But a regular, nice admirerable paint job can be done with a minimal amount of money. What I think is all these paint manufactures, brain wash most people to buying all this stuff,
not saying this guys job wasn't good, it is,, and he did it right,, but at the end of the day, will it matter??? I painted my 36 Ft Trawler with Rustoleum Topside, and most people that see it, think I spent a fortune to do it,, the reality is, it took me about a week or so, and thats including prep, and masking, I live in Fla, and it was Way,,,,,,,, Way above the rec temperature and humidity, I still did it at my convenience, , I bought the paint at my local Home Depot, bout about a dozen or so small rollers, and lots of masking tape,, job came out outstanding,, if I say so myself, Im sure a lot of you are thinking it came out like shit, but Im telling you it didnt, I still see the boat after I sold it and it looks amazing, you would never ever know it was done with rustoleumj, I think that paint is under rated,,,, I do have to say that the prep and clean up is most important, you have to get rid of loose stuff and dirt, but normal painting procedures is all you need,
but nice video and it does like nice
Sounds good, I have heard good things about the rustoleum topside and definitely think it's underrated. I decided to go with the two part poly simply because how tough it is. I did some research and found that its similiar to what is used to refinish bath tubs. I've had the boat out 5 times and it still looks like it did when I finished so it is holding up pretty good. Thanks for the feedback and positive comments!
@@ExtremeDIYGuy I'm hoping to get paint on my whaler today its still in primer mode and working on the details .. I'm using that same brand paint but I got it as a single stage I will be spraying it . I've painted enough cars with my dad and I sprays Metallics blue on my truck cap with a shitty 200 bottom feeder spray gun at work I just crossed those fingers set the gun up to my likings and here goes nuthing lol I came in the next day expecting it to have Orange peel like a mother lol .. but Damm I was wrong it came out so good for cheap single stage paint lol no Orange peel or fish eyes I was blown away ! .. I drove home and showed my dad on my first Metallic Blue paint job lol .. he was impressed .. So I hope this paint is decent stuff lol I will let you know and you'll see Part 5 of this old whaler coming soon !
@@chasingwaves11 Sounds like you have some experience with a spray gun. I've got a little but not much. I actually felt more comfortable rolling rather than spraying. I have sprayed gelcoat before but haven't done any automotive yet. I'm sure I will at some point though! Good luck with the pain, let me know how it goes!
@@ExtremeDIYGuy lol Thanks man practice makes perfect , even watching someone do it , But I agree with you Joe if you didn't feel comfortable spraying it don't do it on the boat , practice on a junkie sheet of metal or a car hoods.
I've used the Rust-Oleum Topside on cars and it indeed has been amazing. People often think it was an upper tier Maaco paintjob. Very durable as well.
Always enjoy seeing how to make a perfect looking 2 part finish without having to professionally spray it indoors. I will say that if you want to save time and also dispense with those syringes, get a $25 kitchen gram scale at Walmart and just put a cup on it. Zero it out and then pour the amount of part A into it that you think you'll need minus what you estimate the part B will be. Let's say 3 parts to one so you just pour 75% that you think you need. Forget pumps, forget syringes. Then note the weight in grams. Divide by 3 with your phone calculator, then take that amount and add it to the original number. For example, let's say you pour 127 grams of part A. Then 127 divided by 3 gives 42.3. Add that to 127 and you have.169.3. You then pour part B into the mix until it weighs 169.3 or close enough. Seems complex but its really just, pour part A, calculate, and pour part B. DONE! For small amounts you don't save much time if any. But for a pint or more it saves time. The bigger the amount the faster it goes. No more pumping or syringing.
That's great advice! I know the cost of the syringes can add up after time. I have kitchen scales as well as high precision scales so will give this some consideration on future projects.
I had a hard time with this paint it dried up on me really fast as I was rolling the paint on the hull
You have to pay close attention to temperature and humidity and adjust for that, Thin at a minimum of 10% as well. I actually planned when I would apply paint based on conditions forcasted!
Great video. I wonder though, if you had a “Tipper” folllowing you on your rolling, if it would have decreased or eliminated the need to sand? Not criticism, just wondering based on boatwright videos I have been watching. Thanks for sharing. Your boat looks great. Will be using this on my kayak. :)
That's a good question. I wanted to try the Russel Brown technique and that worked out pretty well. There's also a video by Epifanes that basically describes the same method. th-cam.com/video/IjbWiSR6LKg/w-d-xo.html Great question though. Good luck with your Kayak!
Thanks for the link Jose.
Thanks for your help, I primed the hull today. Two coats took the whole gallon. I had trouble with the mohair roller I was using. I switched to 7" west system foam roller and wow, what difference. The fight was over. Total protect is like consistency of sour cream when can is mixed. The activator turned it into usable paint, it was a messy , hot process. I have a lot of repair work on the deck that needs to be primed, I have another gallon of total protect, I may save it for the bottom? I think I will use Interlux epoxy primekote on the deck , since I already have a gallon of it. How hard to sand was the Total Protect? I am going to let it set for about a week before I can get back to it.
IT wasnt that difficult to sand, the Random Orbital did great with 220.
Great, I have plenty of 220 grit, poor random orbiter has been through a lot. It is still working. I think I have arthritis from it in my wrist. I am so tired of sanding and the heat is getting bad now too.
Really love all of your tips, attention to detail, work ethic and understanding of material ingredients and best practices. Question: I want to use Marine Tex RM 330 Gluvit on my freshly sanded bare metal aluminum hull over seams and rivets then apply over Tex Marine TotalBoat Total Protect epoxy barrier coat…. Are those compatible?
I believe that Gluvit is epoxy based so they should be compatible. One thing to consider is that Gluvit is also a barrier coat so you may not need the Total Protect, but would still give you a really strong shell. To be honest, I would call the tech guys at Jamestown or TotalBoat and ask them. They have been extremely helpful in the past when I have called with questions.
@@ExtremeDIYGuy Thanks for response, Jose. Yea, Gluvit is a epoxy base but after calls to TotalBoat and Tex Marine recently I did not get a solid response about layering one over the other. I’ll try Jamestown but don’t mind providing a strong shell for my 1954 model that’s getting it’s first total restoration after a lot of nicks and dings in the hull. I appreciate your help. BTW, the Boston Whaler and your videos turned out great!
Thanks! If you have the material you may want to try it out as a test, might be a tad hard to mix small proportions of each but definitely worth trying!
@@ExtremeDIYGuy Good idea! Also liked your plastic wrap to help seal the paint cans. Good stuff.
Looks great! I am getting ready to paint out boat soon. The weather is always an issue here in the Deep South. I use a lot of those syringes you use, they have a lubricant in the tube and on the rubber. I always wash them out with acetone and lube the rubber with what ever I am using in them . The lube may have been causing you problems earlier in the video?
I guess it depends on the syringe manufacturer. These are rated for medical use and are sterile (Probably pay more than I have too for that) and are squealy clean. Another option is to use a scale to meter out paint to catalyst/hardener. I have done that for cerakote but not for the boat paints, I may have to try that on my next restoration.
Really need to scrub it down after sanding and all paints I've seen need reducer and the tipping gives the shine
After sanding, it gets a dawn and ammonia wash before painting. I've done tipping, in this case I followed Russel Browns directions in his book, "Rolling Perfection" and found that the finish is smoother than with tipping.
@@ExtremeDIYGuy have to agree now after doing it this week, doing a 47 foot buddy Davis, on a vertical surface in the sun and wind you have no chance, rolled Stern in shade perfect, rolled and tipped starboard in shade and had to sand back smooth,, lm going to spray the rest
Hey I know this does not have much to do with this video but I was watching your hydroponic garden videos you posted a while ago and was wondering if you were keeping up with it or if you have stopped, and if so why did you stop... I am thinking of starting one myself. Thanks :))
I stopped, This worked out well but the only problem I ended up encountering was that there was a risk of draining down the pond. This is especially true if the root systems start clogging the flow of water or if the plumbing fails omewhere along the line. I will probably try this again but rather than using PVC I am thinkg of doing a tray system with a natural overflow into the pond itself. But this wouldn't be until next year.
1974 aquasport
look s great Joe !! what's next ? are you going to start putting the interior back in ?
First I'm going to finish redoing the trailer, not much yet. I am currently working on wiring up the console, once that is done I will get the interior done. Everything is coming together! Sorry for the late response. TH-cam has not been good about letting me know when there is a new comment.
Hi Joe great video this is not a criticism I’m just about paint my Whaler in Perfection but I’m told it’s no good in the water? And not to leave the boat in the water for long periods? What do you think?
Dave in the UK
Be careful with that. I've been told that you should not leave a boat in water for more than three days if you have a two part poly paint on the hull, the paint could blister.
Great video Jose. How much of total protect epoxy barrier coat primer did you have to use on hull to get the 3 coats.
I used about a gallon altogether for three coats.
Quick question I have found a Whaler exactly like this one. Looks like it’s in good shape. Would you pay 250 for it with the trailer? Just wanting to see if it’s worth it. I’m basically going to have to go through the entire process you have. That’s how I found your video. Thanks in advance! Keep the videos coming
Totally, even without a motor that's a good price. The trailer is probably worth that much by itself!
Thanks for responding Jose! I know it’ll take some work to get it up and back on the water. But I could use a project. I need to get back on the water and fishing. If it’s not too personal about how much do you think it’ll take for a project like this. Almost identical to yours. Just not the motor. Thanks
@@thefamsquad5609 Without the motor somewhere around $2500
Never painted a boat before but I have a sailing dinghy I'm considering painting. My question is: Can you use topside paint on the hull and get good protection. I plan on sailing in freshwater lakes and keeping the boat in my garage.
Yes you can but here are the caveats. Use a good two part epoxy barrier coat firt then use a two part polyurethane paint on top of the barrier coat. Totalboat advised that as long as the boat in not in the water longer than three days there should be no blistering of the paint.
Did you have to sand it for your last coat? What percentage did you thin that last coat?
I did not sand for the very last coat and thinned it with about 12%
Hi Jose 1 more question.....any issue with using total boat barrier coat primer and interlux or awlgrip for top coat instead of total boats product ? Thanks in advance
That should be fine. I put the Interlux over the Total Boat Barrier/Primer coat.
How strong is the smell with this paint? I want to paint my hull in my garage this winter, but don't want to stink up the whole house.
I would advise against it, the chemicals released by this paint is extremely toxic and chemical ppe is a must. Doing it in a garage where the toxic fumes can enter the house is extremely dangerous!
Jose, enjoyed the vid. Question: can you use this technique on the bottom of the boat, that's NOT upside down? I guess one would have to mix it at a different ratio?
I think it should be fine. I did the transom with the same ratio and it was basically perpendicular to the ground. It settled down nice and flat.
Hi. Cuestión what’s the difference between rolling or spraying?
Another person commented on this earlier, they explained that spraying causes much of the solvent to flash off in the air resulting in a rougher surface and that rolling gives the paint more time to settle down flat. I'm not entirely sure how accurate that is but am extremely pleased with the rolled on results I got.
Nice video, looks great. I'm in the process of repainting the hull of my 17' aluminum hull fish/ski boat. Just primed it yesterday using total boat epoxy high build primer. I'm getting conflicting information on what top coat to use. Total boat told me I should use pettit paints vivid antifouling bottom paint, even though I keep the boat on a trailer. It is only left in the water (freshwater) once a year for a week when I go fishing in June, otherwise it's in and out on the same day. I want a glossy finish like yours, and I see that you used topside paint even below the waterline. Any advice? Thanks
I'm surprised they told you that. If you have an epoxy barrier coat on it, you should be able to put a good quality topside paint. A two part poly like Interlux perfection should work
Whew ... a lot of work .... I need to stick to my "check engine" lights.
That's no lie, it was a ton of work! But IMO the result was totally worth it!
I use Alex seal but man it’s expensive
Yeah, all the quality paints generally are!
I made a total mess rolling/tipping....Im trying this next week! Without my nephew this time ;-)
Oh no! Let it cure and sand it down first! Better luck on the next go around.
Great video, Jose! So in the end, did you end up falling back to the recommended 10% thinner, or was that fourth coat with the Russell Brown recommended 15%? I found that 15% was too much on my project, but yours turned out fantastic.
On the last coat I fell back to 12% and it came out really good.
If you don't die grind, taper, and fill spider cracks, they will, within months to a couple years, work through your cured paint and extend themselves.
I did for the larger ones, but not the smaller spider cracks. It's been about nine months since I finished and still looks good. I guess time will tell.
Hey Jose. Thanks for the videos, I have watched several. Did you test the existing substrate prior to priming with the total protect? I'm concerned I may have a one part paint on my hull
No I didn't, I sanded the heck out of it though. I have a theory that if you apply one coat of two part paint, anything not compatible should bubble up. At that point, scrape or sand it off and keep going. I havent had the opportunity to try that yet though.
Hey, I am getting ready to put down the first coat of barrier coat primer. Did you sand between primer coats? I understand the directions says I don't have to , if I recoat before 60 days. I see you say after the first coat you had to make some spot repairs. Did you sand it before making those repairs? I am sure I will have to do the same thing. I have a larger boat and I am tired of sanding, just trying to cut back on sanding some if possible.
I did, I sanded between every coat I put on the hull. I did use progressively finer grits when doing the finish coats. I lightly sanded the repair areas before applying fairing compound, then sanded again lol :)
Nice job Jose but a little confused as to what you did differently on that final coat to have come out so much nicer? Thanks
Larry, pretty much the same thing. I believe the first coat had too much hardener, I was extremely careful on measuring the quantities on the final coats, also thinned to10% and rolled carefully and sanded between coats.
@@ExtremeDIYGuy THANK YOU - very much appreciated.
Do you wet sand the top coat and use a buffer with compound on it?
No, the final coat laid down nice and flat, almost like a mirror.
I got kind of confused about how much perfection you ended up using. If you had not had the issue you had how much would you have needed? Doing my 13 over and will likely use interlux perfection.
I ended up with 4 coats. I really think that you can get by with 2 coats from a quart, thinned to 10-15% and with the surface properly primed and sanded. It is a bit cheaper ($20 or so) to buy it by the gallon but you might end up with a half gallon left over! It's a tough call but if I were doing this again for a 13 I would go with a quart. If I really needed to, buy a second quart.
so with 2k paint is sanding required in-between every coat ?
Not necessarily, I ran into issues related to the environment with the paint setting up to fast so had to sand it smooth.
Hi sir, is the poliurethanic paint you use for the boat the same for the one used in cars? Thanks.
I believe it is similar but not exactly the same.
@@ExtremeDIYGuy thanks for answering sir
What color is that? Snow White or Oyster White?
It was Mediterranean White
@@ExtremeDIYGuy ahh okay thanks. I thought the old whalers were oyster white!
What color of Interlux Perfection did you use ? Snow White ??
I used Mediterranean White
@@ExtremeDIYGuy Thank you, it really looks nice!! I recently bought a 15 ft BW and I really thank you for doing the videos, it's really helping me during restoration process
José is the gray and white primer the same? I’m going to be using that on my hull because it had bottom paint before and there were some blisters and I need a barrier coating.
They are the same, just different colors. I actually used up some gray I had first then went over it with two coats of the white
My advice would be not apply a PU paint in weather with RH higher than 50% and definitely never during or right after a rain. These PU systems use some form of isocyanate + polyol. The isocyanate will react with free water vapor to form CO2 bubbles and will leave unreacted polyol in the finished paint coat, leaving it too rubbery and weak. This will leave a lumpy finish that is very tough to sand out because it will easily clog the sandpaper.
That's sound advice. The weather here in NC is either to cold or too humid, so I typically look for a balance.
What you think??
Can you paint a boat with this product without turning it upside down?
I suppose you could but getting the underneath would be difficult because the boat is resting on the bunks. If you have a way to lift the boat you could do it that way. I chose to flip the boat, in the long run it turned out the most convenient way to do it. Hope this helps!
Sorry I forgot to ask you would a quart do ? Or did you use the whole gallon?
You can count on about one quart per coat. I only used half of the gallon.
Just a tip for you.Spend a few extra bucks and use mohair rollers.
Thanks I'll give those a try next time around
I'm working on a 1985 11' super sport and I'm so glad I found your series! I'm pretty far behind but hoping I can get through it all in time for a test drive this summer.
I'm curious why so much attention went into getting a good finish on the bottom... is this not going to be covered by bottom paint anyway?
Hi , I really gave more attention to the visible areas, the transom, bow and sides. I wont be using bottom paint since it will be trailered and never spend more than a day or less in the water (being used). If it helps, this has been a work in progress since the fall of 2018! I spent a lot of time working on the old Johnson that came with it.
Why are you avoiding bottom paint? Harder to apply?
@@derektrunkey1066 These paints are generally referred to as topside paints but are suitable for hulls too. Interlux perfection is actually an excellent hull paint, which is why I used it here.
Jose's Extreme DIY I put the interlude perfection on the top side. I was also short on Hardner for the last batch. Took the can apart and got another 1.5 ounces out. Came out great overall with more imperfections than yours,
@@derektrunkey1066 Yeah, that spout on the hardener can sucks. IT seem like the best bet is to take the lid off. Glad you were able to get it finished!
How many quarts of interlux total?
Just one
Great job Jose! I'm working on my 13 whaler right now. What Precision white did you use? Did it come close to matching the original white?
Hi James, I used the Mediterranean White. I'm assuming it's close but have nothing to compare it against. But I'm happy with the way it came out!
Epoxy paint ?
The barrier coat is two part epoxy, the finish coat is two part polyurethane.
Always wash a new fibre roller thoroughly and then use a suitable brush lengthways to pull out the loose fibre, and/or then use an air gun to dry and remove the lost fibres - sometimes a vacuum after the wash is a good method and test and retest the roller BEFORE using on the area you are trying to get a 'show finish' on. 100.0% for sure, a new roller will have many lose fibres and they will end up ruining your paint job - HA - yes, ask me how I know that - a lapse of thought once and I failed to clean the new roller cover = a DISASTER. Foam rollers can be an alternative to the fibre, but just like a fibre roller cower, you need to pick the suitable one. When using a roller, it can pay to use a small - very small bit of thinners//reducer (whatever you want to call it) and it can help to get rid of the pull on the paint from the roller action and hence reduce the orange peel. Experiment - do not use too much thinner. CHEERS from AUSTRALIA.
Thank you for the tips! TH'at one reason I really like the foam rollers though.
I thinned my awlcraft 2000 with 25 % reducer .. then I decided not to reduce it on the second batch. Yeah no more using reducer lol
Agreed! Worked for the Interlux Perfection though, but that was rolled on!
What are you using to clean in between coats of paint.
I washed the boat down with a mixture of ammonia and dawn and then went over it with denatured alcohol just before painting the next coat.
@@ExtremeDIYGuy What is the mix of dawn and ammonia? Thank you!
Is this cheaper or more expensive than gel coat?
It is about 3x more expensive
But not sides or console