Common Issues with The Ford 5.4L Triton 3Valve V8 - 2004-2013
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ส.ค. 2024
- This is a terrible engine... or is it? Often achieving around 240,000miles the 5.4l 3v still isn't an engine you want in your life. Here's why.
My better 5.4 Common Issues video on EYVO Auto: • Common Issues with the...
Instagram: / eyvo_auto
EYVO Auto: / eyvoauto
Car Wizard's 5.4l 3v Video: • CAR WIZARD Tears Apart...
• Another dead 5.4 3valv... - Dead 5.4l 3v should it be fixed? (What to use)
• CAR WIZARD Tears Apart... - Why the 5.4l is a nightmare (what to use - why the remans don't have issues)
• What really happens in... - A look inside a failed 5.4
• The CAR WIZARD shares ... - Midsized trucks not to buy
• Never, EVER buy these ... - Engines not to buy
• 6 used SUV's to Never,... - SUV's not to buy
Sparkplug issues: midnightme.com/2017/04/20/for...
Song: Cartoon x nublu x Gameboy Tetris - Biology [NCS Release]
Music provided by NoCopyrightSounds
Free Download/Stream: NCS.io/Biology
Watch: • Cartoon x Jéja x nublu... - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Original owner here of a factory ordered 2009 5.4 3V S/Crew FX4 Luxury Edition 6.5 foot box in E4 Red with every option box ticked off except Nav which I didn’t want. After owning it for over 14 years now my (unexpected) engine repairs are as follows: A/C Pump Clutch went in 2013, passenger side exhaust manifold replaced in 2018, and last year I put two new VCT Solenoids in as the springs were apparently getting weak (and discovered that inside the valve covers and tops of the heads are still shiny clean like new in the process). For regular engine maintenance I installed new spark plugs myself back in 2017 with no issue and I’ll do them again in another couple years, also it didn’t require them but I stuck all new fuel injectors and ignition coil packs in last year just to freshen it up a bit as well but that was my choice. The motor still runs as quiet as the day I drove it off the lot and I’ll take those repairs any day of the week for almost a decade and a half’s use out of a truck as it has paid for itself many times over. Of course I’ve done the other fluid maintenances and wear items as required on the truck as well. I bought it in summer ‘09 never dreaming I’d own it this long but it just keeps going and I like the truck so why not? Years back I used to get worried when I saw all the videos on how bad these engines could be but that hasn’t been my experience. At least on the later run 5.4 3Vs like mine I can say proper maintenance from day 1 of ownership has probably been key. I had the Ford dealer do the oil changes exclusively for the first 8 years using their 5w20 oil and filters and I’ve used synthetic oil since then changing it myself but sticking with all Motorcraft filters. The truck is completely stock except for American Racing wheels and a MBRP Cat Back exhaust and I have a waiting list of people bugging me to sell them my truck but I may keep it for another 14 years at this rate. 🙂
I have a 2005 F-150 5.4L 3V and have done a lot of my own maintenance on it. Including the Fuel pump driver module, which was super easy to do. Just drop the spare tire down and it takes about 20 min to replace with a new one! I've also done spark plugs and COP's. If you have the Lysle spark plug remover kit, this service is also super easy to do. I ended up breaking 4 out of 8 plugs and got them all out easily with the tool. Took about 2 hrs total to do all 8 plugs! Now my 5.4L runs sooooo much better! Just be sure to use the most up to date plugs/coils from Motorcraft and use the nickel anti-seize from Ford.
As for the timing chain issues, there is a YT channel called FordTechMakuloco which is a certified Ford service technician and he has a series of videos that details each step to replace the timing chain and tensioners with the most up to date parts from Motorcraft that help eliminate the tensioner issue. Or, you can ship your vehicle to him and have him do it. I believe he does this service anywhere from $800 - $2,000 depending on how many other parts you want replaced in addition. As i believe he usually also recommends getting the cam phasers, VCT solenoids, cam shaft roller followers and oil pump replaced as well! Might as well get it all done in one service as it requires the top of the engine to be apart anyways! Once this service is done, this engine will EASILY go another 150,000 - 200,000 miles no problem!
Also of note with these trucks is the issues with the frame. Specifically affecting the rear of the truck between the doors and rear wheels. The frames of these truck tend to rust through on both sides and can seriously affect the safety/drivability of the vehicle! If you plan to buy these trucks from 2004-2013, check the frame front to back and actually get underneath it with a hammer or something to check the frames integrity before buying!
Another note on this engine, don't use the recommended 5w-20 oil that ford recommends. Use 5w-30 oil and change intervals of 3,000 - 5,000 miles as this helps postpone a lot of the chain tensioner and roller follower issues with this engine!
These are actually really good engines...they just need a lot of attention and someone who actually takes care of their vehicle!
Great comment, thank you for the information! Did you replace the fuel pump driver module preventatively or did it fail? Pretty sure I have 205k on the original... The spark plugs sound like a nightmare to me, haha, were all the broken ones on the same bank or random? I'll have to look into that YT channel because I'm seriously considering going through the timing system & upgrading the oil pump. I've been hoping to sell the truck, but I just don't think that's going to happen while it sounds like an ecodiesel... I'd like to feel comfortable driving it a lot again / or even sell it for a higher price or at all if It was fixed. I sure love these trucks & the engine does have good power & fuel economy; like you said, they just require a little more attention than most.
@@natestrucks2824 Fuel pump module failed. Engine just turned over and over with no start. I could hear that the fuel pump was not priming when turning the key on so that's how i knew it was the module. Common failure on these trucks.
I believe the plugs that broke were random. Cylinders 2, 3, 5 & 8 for me. So two on bank 1 and two on Bank 2. They're really not that bad to replace even if you brake them. Just be sure to have that extractor tool from Lysle and it'll be just fine!
Here's the link to FordTech's playlist for the timing chain replacement. th-cam.com/play/PLnkaHoqfNwiGBwn5lPs6h7teRFqY9NxQD.html
Where did you buy the Listle spark plug removal tool. ?
Where did you buy the Listle spark removal tool? I need one. Working on my 07 expedition 4wd full timing job.
@@benten6301 I ordered mine on Amazon. You can get them just about any auto parts store as well. You'll want model number 65600. Fordtechmakeuloco channel also has a good video on this procedure. th-cam.com/video/BSY9iBheBXI/w-d-xo.html
He also puts links in his video description to all the parts and tools he uses.
I have 198,000 miles since new on my F350 Super Duty Utility truck. Replaced all the spark plugs along with all the coils, both manifolds (relieving tension of the exhaust pipes on the manifolds when re-installing), water pump, alternator, all coolant hoses and the most important thing other than regular maintenance is using Marvel Mystery oil in the oil AND gas. Runs like new. Ready for another 100,000 miles
I also use MMO in my fuel and oil and ever since I did it’s silenced rattling and ticking. 2008 F150
I've owned several 5.4 3V's and they are great engines when maintained. Use/Change a good synthetic oil every 5-6k and upgrade to a H360HV oil pump w/steel tensioners. Solving the oiling issue remedies other frequent issues.
They do have good power & get pretty decent fuel economy even by today's standards. All in all, they still achieve around 200-250k miles when well maintained, so they're not horrible motors in that sense. I've heard those steel tensioners make a huge difference in prolonging engine life! How does the upgraded pump affect the VVT's by changing oil pressure / flow? Or does it have any affect on the timing? Did you swap the cam phasers as well? How many miles do you have on the repairs?
@@natestrucks2824 Both. More PSI = More Flow. The plastic tensioners are notorious for leaking which starves the phasers/upper end of oil. The 360HV is for the 4v but works (flawlessly) on the 3V's.
Where did you buy the steel tensioner. I don’t find anything on Amazon.
@@benten6301 TH-cam is deleting my links so search for Ford 5.4 Timing Tensioner Mizumo.
@@professor_thunder thank you
Inherited a fleet of these trucks (F250 Super Duties) when I took over a delivery service business. Over the years Ive learned several tricks that are relatively easy and inexpensive to make these 5.4 3V engines virtually bullet proof. The first thing Id recommend is eliminating the variable valve timing with a phaser lockout kit and programmer to turn that crap off.
In my opinion, any from 2009 and up are OK as long as you are judicious with the maintenance. Ford fixed the sparkplug problem, re-designed the timing chain adjusters so the seals don't blow out causing cold start rattle, changed the vvt phasers so they don't fail. Also, begining in '09, they moved from the general electrical module base electronics to a computerized and programmable control module. I have 136k on my 2010 that I've had since new. Oil & filter every 4k(Mobile1 5w30). Only prob I had was a failed lash adjuster @ 115k. Replace all the adjusters and roller followers, no probs. Avg 17.8mpgs on my 22mi one way commute(mostly highway). Plan on keeping mine for a few years more.
The later 5.4 3v's are better engines than the early ones & in theory last longer. They are still prone to the same issues; however, maintenance is a huge part in making them last. While they get a bad rap, they're not bad trucks at all!
These engines were updated but still had a ton of problems. Mainly being the roller followers are all but guaranteed to break on 9-12' look at fordtechmakuloco if you wanna know about the best years to own
My 2010 is great, getting 19.26 winter fuel on the Canadian highways. Summer, I saw 23.48 on the highway . Speeds at 65 mph to 70 mph
I have a brother in law with a 2007 ford f150 5.4 3v with about 270,000 miles on it and just done regular maintenance, still runs great
I bought a 2014 Ford Expedition with 5.4 3v last year. Been changing oil every 3,000-4,000 miles using full synthetic 5w-30. No problem with the engine so far but have a problem with the speed sensor which is to replace the transmission valve body coz the sensor is installed in it. I haven’t replaced it yet but it’s working fine right now coz the mechanic just cleaned up the wiring harness connecting to the transmission and to the pcm. I like the performance of the truck so far as long as speed sensor doesn’t have problems. Towed a trailer and it’s so powerful that I felt like I’m not towing something.
Oh nice truck! That is a weird issue to have, hopefully it was just a fluke and you won't have any trouble with it in the future!
Fords biggest mistake was getting rid of the 4.6 2V. I have it in my 04 marquis and it has 297k on it and riding like a beast still.
The 2v's were great motors, and the 3v's had that potential, just too bad Ford didn't get the issues nailed down a lot quicker than 10years
4.6 2v was discontinued 2011 or 2014
It's failure of the timing chain tensioners that causes a slack chain to slap against the guides, ultimately leading to the guides breaking. There's nothing wrong with the quality of the guides but upgrading to steel tensioners reduces the risk of further problems. A Melling 360HV oil pump is a good band aid on higher mileage engines with increased bearing clearances as it'll increase the oil pressure enough to maintain proper VCT function. Using a slightly thicker 5W-30 oil also helps.
Thanks for the recommendations! These have the potential to be great engines with a little care.
Great information!! I’ve heard that these motors had some issues but I had no idea that it was this extensive. These trucks are inexpensive these days but hopefully people listen to your advice!
Thanks man! Although pretty bad, they still tend to last about 200,000+Miles when well taken care of
Thank you for your video. I was just about to purchase a 2008 5.4L 3 Valve.
Thanks for watching! These are sure nice trucks & if you take care of them will get you 200+k. But in the end they all die the same way no matter how much you love them... A Chevy's a chevy, but the 5.3l will last much longer in the long run or a pre-2004 Ford as well
@@natestrucks2824 I decided not to take the chance
I got a 2011 Expedition 2 years ago with 87000 miles. Ran fine but when it clocked 95000 it had the rattle on startup. I opened it up and both tensioner gaskets were blown and the passenger side chain was loose. I ended up doing the whole timing job in my garage. Went with locked out phasers, 5 star tune, cast iron tensioners, the new cam followers, melling 360HV pump, new water pump. All OEM. Truck runs smooth as silk now. I would do it again, I have the limited 4x4 and it’s such a nice ride, tows my boat great, seats 8 comfortably. You just have to plan on this when you buy one but they are priced cheap compared to other trucks.
The only thing that gets me when you stop for gas. Grocery store. Where ever. You ask people how you like your Ford truck. And the answer is i Love my truck. I know diehard Chevy guys that have switched to Ford
Hey, there's a reason Ford trucks are more expensive than the others right now. I love both Chevy and Ford, but I'd reckon Ford's making some of the best trucks the market's ever seen, right now.
I own a 2008 F250 with the 5.4 - The engine as long as you maintain them aren't that bad,
Mine was getting a bit sticky and only sounded when hot and at the full operating temp.
Well here is what I tried - WD40 was added to the oil while it was running and it did the Wonders of freeing up either a lash adjuster or the cam phazer. Now I'd say about 5% of WD40 was used to do the trick. About 1 cup per 6 quarts of engine oil before change then 1 cup of WD40 along with the oil And it works with the oil with no harm to the system, just don't go to thin. Use 10W30 oil in the winter and SAE 30 in the summer. If you are working the engine hard with towing then change the oil more often. One of the things I think is happening over the years is oil does not have the cleaners it once did back in the day. So a treat like this does help, no problems with seals thus far either but every engine is different in its own history you you have to be mindful of that to your own accord. but Here is a great tip for you DON'T FOLLOW FORDS RECOMMENDED Oil change schedule and that will save your engine ... Follow Brian at FordTeckMakuloco channel and get yourself up to speed like I did.. Believe me - you'll be glad you did.
Obviously, your winter isn't like up in western Canada. No way would I run 10w30!!! 5w 30 is the best way year-round
Thank you for saving me from buying an expedition with the same engine!
There are some issues but our company ran hundreds of these and still has a handful with no more issues than our Chevy engines. Frequent oil changes and if you get the dreaded start up knock, go ahead and do a timing job and replace the oil pump, cam phasers, rockers and have an oil analysis done to check for metal wear. These are 300,000-400,000 mile engines when maintained and if proactive when you hear a knock at startup. We have some with cam phaser knock but that is only an irritant. It won’t fail the motor. Oil
Starvation caused by timing tensioner gasket failure is the big issue that people ignore. What happens is the gasket that seals the tensioner fails, usually on a cold start with cold oil. It blows out the gasket. The next time the truck sits for a day, the tensioner relaxes and you get a slapping of the timing belt. This eventually sends plastic and metal into the engine. Also when the tensioner bleeds off oil, you see bleed oil away from the heads which means a 2-3 second starvation of the rockers etc.
So if you get a great deal on a well maintained 04-08, go for it. Just make sure the oil is always changed and when you start heating a clatter on start up, do a timing job that replaces the oil pump and all the timing
Components including cam
Phasers and go ahead and replace the rockers.
Adding my 2 cents here, the issue with stuck plugs was fixed in mid year 2008 when the head design was modified, if your motor has brown COP boots, you have the new design. I've heard they made improvements to oil passages as well, but i havent been able to confirm that. I bought a 2010 expedition last year, it had 140,000 on it, and I found out after buying that it had the cam timing codes that Indicate a VCT issue (check engine light not working, more on thay later). After swapping the solenoids while replaving the valve cover gaskets, I still had a problem. So after watching a lot of videos and finding Ford tech Makulocos channe and watching his series on the full timing job, l I decided to do a full timing job. Replaced phasers, chains, tensioners, and guides. I also replaced the roller followers with the new designed ones, and swapped the oil pump for the melling pump. While doing that I found that someone had previously replaced one of the phasers already with a chinese knockoff, and had locked out its function with a freaking nut. They had also locked out the original phaser by jamming the vanes inside it. They then removed the CEL bulb since blocking the phasers will cause a permanent CEL unless the VCT is deleated in the PCM. They basically put a bandaid on a major engine problem so they could sell the truck. Very shady.
All in all, about $1500 in parts will take care of those issues. Me and my brother did the work over about 3 days of on/off work. It's honestly not so bad, and getting the timing chains lined up correctly is actually one of the easiest parts. If you have the chain slap at start up, or any of the other symptoms, first thing to do is drop the oil pan. It's easy on 2 wheel drive models, still doable on 4wd. If you have plastic chunks in the oil pan, you know you've got a problem. Chances are those chunks are also blocking the pickup screen (mine were), so you can help things a bit just by cleaning that out, but in the end, it's going to need the full job. If you aren't mechanically inclined, probably best to stay away from these motors unless you know it's had the oil changed every 3000-5000 for its life (even synthetic oil should be changed that frequently if the vehicle is used for short trips/around town driving). If you get one like mine, they can be a ticking time bomb. Thankfully the cam clearances were still within spec, and all lifters were working properly, so even though mine was clearly mistreated before I got it, I think I was able to get it fixed up before too much damage was done by the oil starvation. And the motor sounds and drives like perfect now. Really impressed with the torque and fuel economy out of such a large vehicle. FWIW, lots of people reporting the same issues after doing the full timing job had used aftermarket parts. I bought Ford OEM parts and suggest everyone else do the same, except for the oil pump. The melling oil pump has been proven to be a worthwhile upgrade on these motors. Maybe not required, but if you're doing everything else may as well get it upgraded cause it's right there when the crank cover comes off. The Chinese phaser I found in mine was clearly fairly new, and it had already lost a roll pin and was about to fall apart. The OEM phaser still in the motor was visibly fine. Still got replaced though.
Thanks for the comment! Sorry to hear about your expedition, it's so frustrating when sellers are not honest. You're the second to recommend me to that YT channel - I'm going to check it out because I need to get my truck fixed before we drive it any longer - really starting to tick. You're absolutely correct about the mid-2008 trucks. Pre 2008 you could even pull & replace the VCT solenoids without removing the valve covers, but after 08 you cannot, turns it into a 2hr job instead of 10min. Thank goodness you used original Motorcraft parts! Timing components are not the spot to use aftermarket knockoffs. I sure love these trucks and honestly believe if it weren't for the timing issues the 5.4l 3v would be regarded as one of the best v8 engines of all time.
I was excited to get my first pick up (recent college grad) and decided to get an 07’ 5.4 L XLT F150. I’m no expert mechanic but I bought this for $1500 as a means of doing work to it myself to learn. Don’t think 1500 is much of a loss compared to the reward of owning a nice truck and learning about mechanics. It has 200k miles and is beginning to not start (cranks just fine) on the first few tries. I’m curious what the issue is. Might be fuel pump I assume after watching this video and other vids. Hope I can learn from this truck and not have too much of a headache.
So, let's say if I replaced the oil pump before or when the cam phasers started ticking. Will that fix or prevent the this big problem?
THANK YOU FOR YOUR INSIGHT.
I would like to offer you $1000 apiece for your horrible 5.4 3v triton trucks, just so you don't have to deal with those issues anymore. I can't believe Ford wouldn't have made a perfect truck, if they would have only known how much pain this was gonna cause you. Who has ever heard of changing oil
every 3k miles? I can only assume that all other manufacturers build perfect automobiles that never need maintenance. I'm truly sorry you've experienced such horrific trauma by owning such
Pieces of junk, that's why I will take the 2-5.4 3v triton trucks off your hands for a heafty sum of $1000 each. Maybe you should buy a Toyota or Nissan
Thanks for watching & the comment. If you own a 5.4l 3v, or any triton engine, it's important to know about the issues they have - not saying they aren't great trucks or can't achieve many miles. They do however have more major downfalls / issues than most motors on the market, even when well taken care of.
th-cam.com/video/JwwenxOfvBE/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Dead 5.4l 3v should it be fixed? (What to use)
th-cam.com/video/xcN_WcGr4BU/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Why the 5.4l is a nightmare (what to use - why the remans don't have issues)
th-cam.com/video/HgwHiLCT3vk/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - A look inside a failed 5.4
th-cam.com/video/wWP3baxDt3w/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Midsized trucks not to buy
th-cam.com/video/RCvKDr7DYYE/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Engines not to buy
th-cam.com/video/g5KxRIqDcds/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - SUV's not to buy
I have had three of these trucks. First was an 05 with 4.6. Second was an 06 with 5.4. Neither of those I kept long enough to experience any issues. The third is my dads truck which is an 09 5.4. As soon as I took possession of it I started using motorcraft only oil filters. A few months after that I got the cam phaser tick. I started doing research immediately and decided I would try switching from 0w-20 which is recommended from factory to 5w-30. It made a huge difference. When dropping off the kids at school we drop them off from our car. When we get to the school parking lot portion of the line it has a slight incline. That incline was a no no for my truck .at idle on that slight incline it would run rough as if it was running on 4 cylinders or out of time. I immediately would throw it in neutral and give it a little rev to get oil pressure up. I use castrol full synthetic high mileage 5w-30 and have not had an issue since (knock on wood). Also mine being an 09 I don’t have the two piece plugs. I changed the plugs and coils myself at about 107,000 miles. It was an easy job. Of course I let them soak a couple minutes in some penetrating oil before wrenching. I have 111,000 miles right now and just keep praying. I’d say the biggest issue with these engines is not the engine but Ford and lack of testing perhaps. For example, I live in Mohave County Arizona there is no reason to be using a zero weight oil here.
Oh man, that sounds like a cam phaser / vvt issue. Our 08 has a hard time idling down after being revved up, usually when hot, and will get off time unless you tap the accelerator for a second. Planning on fixing that here soon. I didn't realize ford changed the oil specs on the newer 5.4's. I've always used 5w-20 but am considering upping it to 5w-30. I can't believe Ford let the issues go on for so long - over 10yrs. I guess overall they still get a few miles on them and they're nice trucks.
@@natestrucks2824 yeah my truck calls for 0w-20. I always assumed Ford knows what they are doing. I switched to 5w-30 and I haven’t had an issue since. I realize it’s likely just a bandaid repair but again I haven’t had any issues since the switch so I’m going to keep running her.
@@natestrucks2824 I never updated my comment. Ford didn’t update oil specifications. I don’t know where I got the idea of 0w-20, I assume I read it in one of the forums. I went and looked at the oil cap to see what factory spec is which is as you stated 5w-20. I however have been using 5w-30, still haven’t had any of my previous described issues. Hope it stays that way long enough for me to save a bit more for a 7.3 superduty.
@@highdesertexplorer123 No worries! A lot of people have recommended switching to the 5w-30. It makes sense, it's quite a bit thicker than the 5w-20. If you aren't ticking yet, it should go for quite a while more! Until now, our f150's been the most reliable vehicle we've owned - almost 55k without any hiccups other than oil changes & maintenance. Cannot believe what those 7.3's are going for right now, hope prices come down soon & you can find a really nice one
Could’ve also been a fuel issue since you mention being on an incline, also has issues with fuel pump going bad and clogged fuel filters.
Spark plugs change them warm, never had a problem even with the old 2 piece plugs. 5.4 3v is a great motor if you take care of it.
There is absolutely no excuse for FORD making bad V8 engines! They have been making V8s since 1932. They should be making engines better and stronger the BMW and Mercedes. Their engines should go over 500,000 miles trouble free and last over 1,000,000 miles. They have engineers on staff with the knowledge to do this, they just need to throw the accountants, politicians and tree huggers out.
Bro, I hear you. 4.6 2v is that engine. CAFE is the reason why the industry is releasing the crap that they have. Squeezing every last mpg out of every drop of gas means more r&d. More r&d means more expensive tech and unreliable engines and more expensive products.
Also has problems is the rear brake pads wear out faster then the front. Best pads I found work best is the napa fleet brakes you get the best wear.
I did brakes on mine a few years ago and couldn't believe how expensive they were! I'm sure it's more now, but also well worth it as they literally save your life - too many people ignore their brakes.
cant speak for the older ones but I did all 8 spark plugs in my 2010 f150 5.4 on my own with no issues. I believe they fixed the spark plug thing in 2008 or so
I bought a 2012 Expedition King Ranch last November with 39,500 miles and now has 45k miles. I've done 2 oil changes so far using 5w30 Motorcraft full synthetic oil. We only put about 5k miles a year on it, so 2 oil changes with new filters a year is cheap maintenance. Mine doesn't have the spark plug issue
I have a 2008-5.4 liter engine in my 4x4 truck, it supposedly does not have the two part spark plugs according to my Vin. Number. I have 100,000 on engine, one common problem on mine is--the Throttle Positioner Sensor will not last very long, i ordered a New One recently that is suppose to be a heavier duty Positioner. The Cam Phaser on mine does make noise when first started especially if not driven for a few days--I have found if you just barely turn engine over using Key before actually starting the truck this noise will not occur...
Great comment, the newer trucks got the updated plugs from the factory, but I'm not sure what year they switched that. Was it 06 -07? Luckily though almost all 3v motors on the road have the updated plugs by now anyways. That is an interesting problem! I really don't like the throttle on these trucks, but I haven't ever had mine break - it would be interesting to see if it is the original one
Hear so many bad things about this engine and I've never had a problem with the 3 I own (05 F150, 06 Expedition and 09 Expedition with 140k - 160k miles). Plugs didn't break (got lucky there) and none have any timing problems and won't if you use good oil and change it at least at 3k (sooner if you idle alot or alot of short drives). The oil pump does have some issues with low pressure, which brings me to the most important thing.... USE 5w30!!!! 5w20 is not thick enough.
Btw, if you do grenade your engine and have the tools/space, you can get a new engine with all these problems fixed (actual cam bearings, bigger oil galleries, a high volume oil pump etc) for a few hundred more than the cost of a timing job ($3,200~ if you do it yourself)
I haven't had any problems with mine, and it runs great, other than it ticks & rattles like an eco-diesel. It's also got really rattly on startup from slack in the timing chain... no matter how well you take care of a 5.4 3v they will all eventually have the same issues, usually around 200-250k (well taken care of). My engine is just nearing the end of it's life; could go another 5years this way or break tomorrow. I see so many for sale with bad engines or cam phaser issues usually around 170-200+.
I agree the best thing to do when it does start to have problems is swap the engine yourself, you'd be around $4k all said and done with a few upgrades. In a shop $7-10k, but the reman engines have all the problems corrected and should last a very long time. I mean, if the "broken" engines will go for 250k, the corrected engines should run for a very very long time. While the transmissions never seemed to be problematic, it could be a good idea to have it rebuilt while swapping the motor just for piece of mind.
Every time I change mine I heat up the engine first making it much easier to remove as well as anti-seize on the threads when I replace them
Great advice! Much easier to do if you follow the proper procedure from Ford. Sounds like you do!
Great info. I had a 97' Ford Short Bed 4x4 that ran like spotted ass ape! God it had power & lasted!
Stay away from 2010-2015 (that i know of) EcoBoost. Or if you pop the hood & see the fuse box dead center on top of the radiator? Walk away!
My Grandpa bought one & that fuse box gets super hot (from radiator of course) and will ruin your coolant fan relays for your radiator & turbo fans. One second your driving & your temp is fine then all the sudden your temp is pegged out & steam flowing out from under the hood!
My Granpa's truck has 12k miles on it & the engine already has a knock!
Thanks! The 3v is more modern, but the 2v sure was a better engine! Good to know, that sounds like a bad spot for a fuse box! That doesn't sound very good! I sure hope that is covered under warranty?
The Car Wizard hates these engines.
Repeat of Car Wizards video. Definitely worth check that channel out
100% I've talked to a ton of other reliable, experienced shops & mechanics. All confirm what the Car Wizard says in these videos. Having been around these engines for a while I can say it is all true! Even if we love the trucks, their power, economy, etc. we shouldn't ignore the fact these engines can be problematic whether taken care of or not.
th-cam.com/video/JwwenxOfvBE/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Dead 5.4l 3v should it be fixed? (What to use)
th-cam.com/video/xcN_WcGr4BU/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Why the 5.4l is a nightmare (what to use - why the remans don't have issues)
th-cam.com/video/HgwHiLCT3vk/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - A look inside a failed 5.4
th-cam.com/video/wWP3baxDt3w/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Midsized trucks not to buy
th-cam.com/video/RCvKDr7DYYE/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Engines not to buy
th-cam.com/video/g5KxRIqDcds/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - SUV's not to buy
One paper gasket. That is really the biggest problem. Actually two, one for each of the chain tensioners. A paper gasket for this tensioner blows out, and the oil pressure delivered from the pump sprays directly out into the timing cover area and back down into the sump. BUT, since ford uses an idiot light connected to a gauge, and anything above about 6psi will "turn on" the gauge, the driver will never know his engine is not getting properly oiled. UNTIL, the chains start slapping around and destroying the chain guides, and the rocker arm needle bearings start failing because they are not getting proper oil flow, and slowly the process of engine disintegration begins.
SO, replace those two cam tensioners with the new style that have a grooved silicon seal, and while your at it replace the chains/phasers. The newer style rockers have a smaller oil hole supposedly to keep the pressure up to the needle bearings, so replace them also. Millen oil pump for a little extra flow and while its apart drop in a set of lifters. Use ford parts and do this before it starts melting down. I believe that then, and only then, you will have a 300k+ mile motor. All this for a paper gasket.
Totally agree, I believe if you can catch this early on and fix it you could add a lot of miles to it! I also hate Ford's oil pressure monitor system / gauge & their temperature gauge. They're practically either on, or off - takes an extreme to get them to read a problem.
I have a 5.4 with 212,000 miles...no issues...regular maintenance...runs like a top...
Are the later years 3v any better or updated? 2012 expedition
My 2010 king ranch 300000 running strong. Oil change and refueling is basically all ive done to it .
I just did plugs on a three valve. It wasn't hard except for the passenger rear two plugs
My goodness those ones are hard to reach
I've been pulling and pushing with the two valve for decades now. I flush the transmission myself at minimum every two years. No matter if it needs it or not. Also the spark plug situation is easy to remedy. Carfully remove them, and torque them to 25 pounds. As opposed to the 15 suggested.
I bought a 08 F250 this year for a work truck, has rust and 280,000 but the guy put a brand new box on it so a new tailgate n some paint on the doors it’ll look brand new. I was never a ford guy and still aren’t but the solid front axle and overall ride compared to Chevy GM is so much better . This truck drives smoother with 280,000km than my buddies trucks (2x 23 Sierra 3500 one diesel one gas) but it is definitely slow as balls 😂 the engine ticks , I’m pretty sure it’s the exhaust manifold , it doesn’t at idle and won’t if your very easy on the gas but its consistent with how much gas you give , anyways I put 5w-30 full synthetic with a bottle of Lucas oil stabilizer and she runs great besides the noise . Put on 1000km already and it hasn’t skipped a beat, I absolutely love how big the older F250s are compared to ram and Chevy . It is basically as big as a 2023 heavy duty truck from any brand in terms of height and length (supercab long box) I paid 2300$ with 2 sets of rims , it’s a XLT so no keyless entry or features but it has power locks windows and a power sliding seat! The reclining function is manual tho which sucks 😂 I’m hoping it last at least a year without fixing anything cuz then that’ll be my monies worth
Hey.
You explain the problems very well and why you should not buy a triton 5.4.
At the same time, you say in the video that they are very good engines.
A little later you say that they are a disaster and that we should not buy one.
Also you say you have 2 of ford f 150 with triton engine between 2004 and 2008.
So what should I take from this video?
You bought 2 of them and yet you recommend us not to buy one.
But they have a good engine anyway you say 🤔🤔
Why is it a good engine if everything is wrong with it and it will only cost us a lot of money in repairs or a new engine?
How can it be a good engine when all the thes problems are with it??
What I got out of your video, which by the way is a very good video because you clearly mention the problems, is that now I only look at the 2008 Ford F 150 5.4 v8 King Ranch as a crappy car.
Is it a crappy car??
Don't take my comment negative. I'm just a bit confused by your statements about the engine being good and crap.
I look forward to your reply.
I'm not saying you're wrong, etc. I just want to learn from your knowledge and experiences. Thanks for a good video.
I always change the spark plugs while the engine is hot. Never had a problem.
Had a 06 used 5 30 oil every 4k and before replacing plugs, gave the gas tank a hot shot of seafoam and plugs came out easy, was still running strong at 250000 miles when i traded it off. I had a 4.6 in a 99 f 150 and thought it to be superior to the 5.4
Nice! We've got 203k, and all though it ticks and rattles, it's a good running truck. Did your engine make any phaser noise? I would have to agree the older 2v motors were much better, maybe not as powerful / fuel efficient, but simpler, better.
It had the cam phaser tick from day one 129000 mi. My mechanic buddy told me to use 5 30 and dont let it idle, he was right.
@@hondanut231 what did 5 30 oil do to your truck once switched?
have 142k on my 2005...not a single issue its entire life. Sounds like that is all gonna change....
Fingers crossed that it keeps going strong! Any ticking / rattling from the top half of the motor? With good maintenance it should last you a long time before you get into any of that
@@natestrucks2824 Not that is obvious....After watching ur vid I transfixed on any anomolous sound and I did detect some slight ticking or chain slop perhaps...I really appreciate the vid- Im sure I now can avoid some very unpleasant surprises...
@@Motoicon A great channel to follow on this issue is the Car Wizard!
th-cam.com/video/JwwenxOfvBE/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Dead 5.4l 3v should it be fixed? (What to use)
th-cam.com/video/xcN_WcGr4BU/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Why the 5.4l is a nightmare (what to use - why the remans don't have issues)
th-cam.com/video/HgwHiLCT3vk/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - A look inside a failed 5.4
th-cam.com/video/wWP3baxDt3w/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Midsized trucks not to buy
th-cam.com/video/RCvKDr7DYYE/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Engines not to buy
th-cam.com/video/g5KxRIqDcds/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - SUV's not to buy
Best thing.... Run good oil. With ford filters.. change it 3 to 4 thousand miles.. run it like a truck.... No problems...
Thanks for watching! Can't stress the importance of oil changes on any vehicle, but especially a 3v triton! If you want the most amount of miles possible out of these regular oil changes are a must! Sadly that's just less miles than it could be... All of these 3v's will encounter the same timing issues earlier on than most trucks and are very expensive to fix...
th-cam.com/video/JwwenxOfvBE/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Dead 5.4l 3v should it be fixed? (What to use)
th-cam.com/video/xcN_WcGr4BU/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Why the 5.4l is a nightmare (what to use - why the remans don't have issues)
th-cam.com/video/HgwHiLCT3vk/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - A look inside a failed 5.4
th-cam.com/video/wWP3baxDt3w/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Midsized trucks not to buy
th-cam.com/video/RCvKDr7DYYE/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Engines not to buy
th-cam.com/video/g5KxRIqDcds/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - SUV's not to buy
Great vid mostly clear, except a few.
I got an 08 5/4 3V with 120000 miles. Had since winter 2010. My oil is spanking clean clear and fresh all the time. I know the oil passages to the phasers are way too narrow but I am perfect mellow yellow oil.
I did have a mechanic at $400 do my plugs at 100 thousand miles because of the 2 piece plug issue.
Turned out mine were 1 piece.
Filter changes, good gas, recommended by old schoolers so NEVER will I go synthetic I know truths.
Also for a total time of 2 -3 hours sporadically in 12 months a year I will do about 100-115 mph and my injectors are spanky clean.
Only annoying issue is a dumass Napa long term mechanic burned me 2x because he never fixed the exhaust manifold leak issue.
I have a beast that roars no worries here.
My friends 04 Expedition hit 290k miles before rust got to it and it had the 5.4. It had no issues other than the regular
Biggest thing on these is regular oil changes! I've ran mine up to 203,000 with no issues. Sadly these 5.4l's eventually all have the same problems, even when well cared for.
@@natestrucks2824 That's why I might get a 2 valve 02 or 03 5.4 instead
@@cptchuff2741 A much better engine in terms of reliability. A buddy of mine has over 430,000 on his work truck, original engine.
@@natestrucks2824 Alright thanks for the reassurance. I could get an 04-08 with the 4.6 but I'd rather have the 5.4
Edit: 430k miles is amazing for a truck. That's crazy
@@cptchuff2741 Yeah, I prefer the larger v8 for sure, haha, 5.4 has decent power & okay fuel economy. The 4.6l & 6.8l v10's are also 3v triton engines and subject to some of the same issues.
I know right! I'd love to see the service history on that truck!
How about putting a gasket between the steel and module and maybe put a splash guard on it.
I went to one mechanic. He told me no thanks as he couldn't guarantee the thing would stop ticking or handgrenade out of the lot
Unfortunately that's been my experience with 5 different reputable shops. My usual shop said they don't usually work on those, but would only fix the cam phaser rattling if they could replace all of the timing related components (about $2,800) and if I understood it would only prolong the engine life if it fixed the rattle at all - stating the rattle would most likely be back anywhere from 10-30,000 miles later. Three shops said we don't work on those. And one other huge diesel / repair shop said they only do engine replacements for that issue.
th-cam.com/video/JwwenxOfvBE/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Dead 5.4l 3v should it be fixed? (What to use)
th-cam.com/video/xcN_WcGr4BU/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Why the 5.4l is a nightmare (what to use - why the remans don't have issues)
th-cam.com/video/HgwHiLCT3vk/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - A look inside a failed 5.4
th-cam.com/video/wWP3baxDt3w/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Midsized trucks not to buy
th-cam.com/video/RCvKDr7DYYE/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Engines not to buy
th-cam.com/video/g5KxRIqDcds/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - SUV's not to buy
I got to timestamp 5:24 and couldn't take any more. You started out with some misinformation about the spark plug issues, the early heads had too few threads so they spit out plugs. Then there was the two piece plug design with an excessive long reach down thru the head, these did have more threads so plug spit out was eliminated but the plug tips swagged in the port from combustion residue/carbon and the weak two piece design would not stay intact on removal....hence came the broken plugs and need to use a special tool for extracting the broken plug tip. This is a difficult job but one readily accomplished by many DIY types. The ignition coil boot voltage leak is a new one on me, in much reading and viewing on You tube for more than two years...with emphasis on the three valve engine....I have never heard of such a problem. And even if it were a fact it is easily rectified with new boots which can be bought separate or just new coils. I would bet that such boot issues can be traced back to aftermarket boots of low quality. I can't stomach any more of your video.
Thanks for watching! The boot issue isn't a big deal at all or specific to the 3v's. It happened to me once after a spark plug job on Motorcraft boots, they probably cracked when disturbed, quickly replaced them without a problem since. However, it is listed as a common issue on multiple sites so I thought I'd mention it.
Many people do DIY swapping the plugs, but it's not something I can recommend as it's best left to someone who has done it several times. Losing a tip in the head can cause some major damage if you can't get it out properly. Saving the $3-400 isn't really worth the risk for most people when it could be costly.
th-cam.com/video/JwwenxOfvBE/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Dead 5.4l 3v should it be fixed? (What to use)
th-cam.com/video/xcN_WcGr4BU/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Why the 5.4l is a nightmare (what to use - why the remans don't have issues)
th-cam.com/video/HgwHiLCT3vk/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - A look inside a failed 5.4
th-cam.com/video/wWP3baxDt3w/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Midsized trucks not to buy
th-cam.com/video/RCvKDr7DYYE/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Engines not to buy
th-cam.com/video/g5KxRIqDcds/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - SUV's not to buy
NEVER USE 5w20 on these. Use 5w-30 guys. Never heard of the gas pump module failing on these. I have a 04 with 226k miles and runs like a charm. Locked phasers, upgraded oil pump, use 5w-30 and change it every 1,500 miles or 2 months to keep it super clean.
I've heard from a lot of people to use 5w-30 over the 5w-20, it makes sense - the 5w-20 literally seems like water, haha. I hadn't heard of or ever experienced a fuel pump module failure either, but thought I'd mention it since it was on several of the articles I read through - I'm pretty sure I have 205k on the original. Great trucks, just have their quirks I guress
@@natestrucks2824 Had my fuel pump module fail at 140k. Wet salty winter driving at the time.
New oil every 1500 miles is just ridiculous lol! Every 5-6k is perfectly fine if using a half decent full synthetic 5w-30.....and toss a can of seafoam in the block before every oil change and there you go :)
When these came out it was 3-30 but Ford changed it to get better mileage, mine has 150k and it runs perfect.
I see alot of folks talking about how this engine is great if you "maintain" it. If I got a f150 I would just get a 4.6L. I want to get an Excursions, but it seems all the engine option have some type of issues.
V10 gas gusler
5.4L high maintenance
6.0 high-high maintenance
6.8 high maintenance
7.3 high maintenance
Spark plugs, oil pump and cam phasers are the Achilles tendon.
Well said, a remaned engine with everything corrected will literally last forever!
Hi Nate, I bought a 2010 F150 recently with over 150000 miles for $2000 Canadian. I noticed the exhaust manifold / pipe is stops at the passenger door. The engine is extremely loud! Our local muffler shop has quoted me over $900 to fix it! He said it’ll take about 7.6 labour hours to install. Will this reduce the engine noise? I’ve got a mechanic lined up to check over the motor. Thanks. Yes it’s a 5.4 triton engine!
Hi, sounds like a good buy for the miles! Yes, that will quiet the truck down a lot! Depending on the exhaust you choose you may hear more engine noise than the factory intended or you could have it put back to the factory spec, all personal preference. I briefly had a ram 1500 with a chopped exhaust, ending just under the cab, which was near unbearable to drive it was so loud.
A year ago I would have thought $900 was expensive for exhaust work - but my Dad just took his 97 f250 in for exhaust work and was quoted $860 and half a day, so I guess that's probably about right. If you're mechanically inclined you could order your own exhaust kit from MBRP or somewhere and probably save a little bit of money that way but have to go through the trouble of installing it yourself.
@@natestrucks2824 thanks 😊. It’s going into the muffler shop this Friday. They told me it could be between 5 to 7.5 hours to replace it.
@@davidwarren2883 Wow, that's a long time! Didn't realize it was that labor intensive
Alot of that noise is the fuel injectors ticking
I’d be curious to see what generation and make of trucks 15+ years old would be recommended with least amount of problems. I know all trucks in age and mileage present problems, but today if you are looking for a good used truck 10-20 years old what is recommended? Anyone?
This is an awesome question! I love watching the car wizard talk about what vehicles to buy and not to buy. He's an experienced mechanic with a ton of working years under his belt. I'll link his video below... The 5.4l 2v's were excellent motors, so were the 7.3l diesel's very little problems with both those. I've seen both, several times, with almost 500k and just regular maintenance. Also the Chevy 5.3l up until they added the afm system (in 2008?) is an exceptional motor many have well over 300k still running great with just regular maintenance.
th-cam.com/video/wWP3baxDt3w/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard
th-cam.com/video/u6Jx0dWLQSI/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard
th-cam.com/video/7wDmoUm5VCI/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard
th-cam.com/video/JRBVRza3A2g/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard
th-cam.com/video/JRBVRza3A2g/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard
Toyota...
You forgot to mention that all that debris that bust in the timing set up goes into the oil pan and gets sucked up into the oil pump, and unless you got the melling aftermarket oil pump then that thing is going to clog
100% Already weak, all those plastic bits just cause even more issues as the flow gets more and more restricted. Not to mention failed tensioners cause a big loss of pressure in the timing system... No wonder these engines eat timing components right and left. If you're replacing the timing chain & components you must replace the oil pump! or you're gonna end right back up in the same situation again.
@@natestrucks2824 i heard that from so many people, but they say when you change to the new cam phasers and new oil pump, its better then orginal factory condition lol
A Powertrain Products 5.4 3V long block replacement engine is the ONLY way to go!! Car Wizard rates this as the WORST engine of all time.
Yes! Thank you! And it's not to hate on them, not because they don't make good power, or aren't fuel efficient... you can even still get some miles out of them... but in the end you'll encounter the same problems with ALL of them, major problems that to "fix" cost a minimum of $3k but to actually fix right run you around $7k with a new block.
th-cam.com/video/JwwenxOfvBE/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Dead 5.4l 3v should it be fixed? (What to use)
th-cam.com/video/xcN_WcGr4BU/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Why the 5.4l is a nightmare (what to use - why the remans don't have issues)
th-cam.com/video/HgwHiLCT3vk/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - A look inside a failed 5.4
th-cam.com/video/wWP3baxDt3w/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Midsized trucks not to buy
th-cam.com/video/RCvKDr7DYYE/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Engines not to buy
th-cam.com/video/g5KxRIqDcds/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - SUV's not to buy
Is it worth it to replace timing chain and guides with 90k on engine
If they are failing and need replaced yes, the sooner the better. I've read on forums if it weren't for the timing issues these motors would run forever just like the 2valves do. The aftermarket parts are much better than the oem parts, and if you plan on keeping the truck a long time I'd replace the oil pump with a higher pressure one since all the issues come from a lack of lubrication. Replace the VVT valves with the timing chain, guides, tensioners, rollers, water pump, etc. Also, It's imperative to never miss an oil change with these motors. Ford recommends 5w-20 replaced at every 3,000miles with a new filter. I believe running full synthetic is also a must on these motors as they're super sludge prone if not maintained. I have 201k on my truck and I'm going to throw a timing kit at it as well as a ton of other service.
I've got 236,000 on my 2006 5.4. So for now problems yet.
Awesome
These are definitely fixable with the updated timing parts
Just bought a reman engine from Jasper. Not sure if the reman fixes any of these issues but what can you do
it has the higher pressure melling oil pump and bigger oil passages the remans do fix alot of the issues the factory 5.4 3vs have. I have done the same in my 06 expedition I got dirt cheap because it was ticking and misfiring from the sludging problem. honestly still cheaper than buying anything new and if you got it cheap enough its a well worth investment imo.
What about a 5.0 coyote v8, same issues?
You'll be driving that for a long time it's still reliable
Sure hope so, but it's not going that way... Getting down on power and fuel economy's been cut in half so definitely getting off time little by little... Unfortunately the sad reality of the Triton
th-cam.com/video/JwwenxOfvBE/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Dead 5.4l 3v should it be fixed? (What to use)
th-cam.com/video/xcN_WcGr4BU/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Why the 5.4l is a nightmare (what to use - why the remans don't have issues)
th-cam.com/video/HgwHiLCT3vk/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - A look inside a failed 5.4
th-cam.com/video/wWP3baxDt3w/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Midsized trucks not to buy
th-cam.com/video/RCvKDr7DYYE/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Engines not to buy
th-cam.com/video/g5KxRIqDcds/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - SUV's not to buy
Is there any ticking noises on a healthy 3Valve? I have a 2005 F150 King Ranch with 178.000 km (110k miles) There is a ever so slight tick, I can't really hear it when I stand next to the engine, but in a drive through, when I have a wall close it's more audible. Is there preventive maintainance I can do in addition to regular oil changes? I live in southern Sweden, So higher temperatures are not an issue here, but we DO get quite cold weather in the winter. I really, really love my truck - but I am very worried about the chaing and phaser issues. I really want to enjoy this Beautiful truck for a long time.
Check your rockers, 6 dollar part you won’t regret
Ticking noise is your exhuasr maifold, either cracking or theres gap
In this day and age of crazy used vehicles prices $6000 for a new engine might be worthwhile assuming the rest of the truck is in very good shape.
Exactly! The market is crazy right now. Honestly if I can't sell this, hoping to get something newer in a year or so, then we'll hang on to it and use it as a crew truck for work till the motor locks up. Hopefully go a couple more years anyways
@@natestrucks2824 yup I literally got a 06 expedition for $700 that had 224k miles on it but other than the failing engine misfiring and ticking the rest of it is basically mint. it was about $8500 all said and done to have mine done with a jasper reman but shes back on the road and way cheaper than buying a new expedition they're like $80k+! seriously best way to score a truck or suv is get one with a bad engine or trans and just have it replaced if the rest is in good shape. I live in the south so we got no rust here as long as the engine or trans is solid you're good for basically life if you keep replacing parts.
Wait a minute. I have a 2005 F150 with 346,000 miles on it. The only thing I ever replaced that was necessary was the starter that went out at 190,000. Everything else is original internallt in the engine. Never replaced the timing chain although it was supposed to be done every 100,ooo. I never did. 6 months ago I replaced the VCT solenoids because that seemed like the thing to do although by instection the screens were perfectly clean, and the plastic framing around the screens were all intact. It practically looked new except for a little tarnish on them, but very little. Original tailpipe, muffler, catalytic converter, original brake lines. You name it, it's never been replaced except the brakes shoes, pads, rotors, tires. I do use fully synthetic Royal Purple motor oil. Engine runs great, and I swithced to 5 W 30. I will get 400,000 miles from it. I hear it has it's design flaws, but that has not affected my engine to the point I need to get it fixed.
Wow, that's awesome to hear! Sounds like you've had the perfect ownership experience with your Triton. It's too bad they're not all like that, especially when Ford had the potential to correct any issues quickly and literally produce the perfect truck. Sounds like 5w-30 may be the golden ticket with these.
th-cam.com/video/JwwenxOfvBE/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Dead 5.4l 3v should it be fixed? (What to use)
th-cam.com/video/xcN_WcGr4BU/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Why the 5.4l is a nightmare (what to use - why the remans don't have issues)
th-cam.com/video/HgwHiLCT3vk/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - A look inside a failed 5.4
th-cam.com/video/wWP3baxDt3w/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Midsized trucks not to buy
th-cam.com/video/RCvKDr7DYYE/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Engines not to buy
th-cam.com/video/g5KxRIqDcds/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - SUV's not to buy
Man I’m buying one today 2007
Nice dude! Although they get a bad rap, many last over 200,000 miles when well taken care of and maintained before their problems start to become major issues. I've put over 50,000miles on mine and only replaced an alternator. I just crossed 203,000.
Nice! Paid $9,000 for a good condition king ranch with 179,000 miles RWD one owner I hope that means it had 5000 mile oil changes! they not cheap these days.
@@natestrucks2824 .
@@americanchauvinist1210 No they are not! Congrats on the purchase! I can't believe this market. I'm actually planning on selling mine at 203,000miles and hoping not to loose too much in value. Even broken, people are willing to buy and go through the trouble of keeping them running - better than a payment on a new vehicle I guess. My wife and I decided to downgrade into an SUV as a daily for a while. We're planning on saving up and trying to buy something newer / nicer in the future - it would be nice if prices come down a little before then, but we'll see what happens.
I got the ‘07 4x4 and I love it !!
No issues with it at all.
Is there a second T in "Triton"? Or Is it a Tri'in
Don't forget the self changing engine oil
Luckily haven't experienced any leaks yet!
Mine ran flawless all the way to 239000 before getting the engine replaced because of timing job which led to catastrophic damage.
Great video …..except for the yapping dog. Lol. And boo my 5.4 just started ticking at 270,000. I’m sad. Has been such a great vehicle.
Thanks for watching! I hated living by those dogs! - literally all day long... Wow! You've got a few miles out of that! I love my truck too! - best one I've owned to date, other than the engine is going at only 200k... If I don't get it sold soon I'll be swapping it to either a remaned 5.4l from powertrain products or possibly a 3.9l 4bt, heck I even considered an LS at one point, but not gonna go that route.
Got two. 2005 F-150 and a 2005 F-250. I see the pain a coming☹️
Oh no! We have this 04 and an 08 f250 both with 204k. The 04 ticks & rattles bad while the 08 runs better but has some idling issues due to a bad VVT Solenoid. (going to fix that). Both have been well maintained in terms of oil changes as well. Overall good trucks though!
So.... Have an '04, 245k motor that just popped...
Looking at getting a motor, so what is your opinion of the powertrain motors for a replacement?
Do they fix some of these issues?
Or is there a better alternative?
I'm not a mechanic, so trying to figure out if it's worth getting an engine from them, or just scrap my truck. But I love my truck!
Great question! I too am starting to look for a replacement / alternative - mine is starting to get really rattly. Hopefully it will go another 35k before it happens. Even with great maintenance, my engine sadly isn't going to make it to 300k. The way the market is now, if your truck is in good shape, it may be worth a replacement. The engine at a shop will run you around $7k, but I'd also highly recommend getting a trans / rebuild at the same time. Here are some videos to reference as far as what brand to use, this mechanic has been around a long time and replaced a ton of 5.4's. He also breaks down national shop data in his videos which is cool:
th-cam.com/video/JwwenxOfvBE/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Dead 5.4l 3v should it be fixed? (What to use)
th-cam.com/video/xcN_WcGr4BU/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Why the 5.4l is a nightmare (what to use - why the remans don't have issues)
th-cam.com/video/HgwHiLCT3vk/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - A look inside a failed 5.4
th-cam.com/video/wWP3baxDt3w/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Midsized trucks not to buy
th-cam.com/video/RCvKDr7DYYE/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Engines not to buy
th-cam.com/video/g5KxRIqDcds/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - SUV's not to buy
@@natestrucks2824 If your engine is rattling, then you know that the timing chain guides have already disintegrated and the plastic pieces are already in the oil pan. The small plastic shards will quickly plug the oil pick-up tube and reduce oil flow to the engine, then the rest of the engine issues will be accelerated. At the first signs of the rattling timing chain, drop the oil pan and remove all the pieces of the plastic guides and clear the pick-up tube. My 5.4 (2012 Navigator) is running great with 86 K miles on my engine, but, I'm planning to drop the pan during the next oil change to check it and will probably drop the pan for every third oil change after that.
@@chrisgraham2904 I'm sure there's quite a few plastic pieces floating around my engine unfortunately, maybe already some metal too... It's down on power so I'm guessing the timing is already a little off. It'd probably be a great idea to do a timing job on it, with a higher flow oil pump right when it starts to rattle, while not The problem, new timing components right as it starts to have problems would greatly prolong the life. I worry, even with new timing components, the one in my truck is already too far gone.I'd hate to go through a bunch of work to still lose the engine a short time later. The trucks still really nice so it almost makes sense to throw and engine and transmission at it to make it 100% reliable again.
Have you been able to look in the pan of your navigator?
@@natestrucks2824 No, I haven't pulled the pan as yet. I'm about 1,200 km from my next oil change. So many have stated that it's not worth making repairs to this engine when it fails. Re-manufactured engines can be hit and miss, depending on the quality of the rebuild. A new crate engine is the quick and most expensive solution, but your installing a brand new engine of the same poor design. Not like the old days when a different type and size of engine could often be swapped in as a replacement to mate with the same transmission. These engines are so common, in such high numbers and have been around for so many years, one would think that an after-market "fix kit" would be available for rebuild, but not much evidence of that.
@@chrisgraham2904 Oh awesome, let us know how it goes! Dude, there are so many 5.4 tritons... I read they were still in the E-series as late as 2020! I do agree that a lot of the re-manufactured engines are probably not any better than the OE. Supposedly the Powertrain Products motors have an updated block with everything corrected - no more issues. That's the engine I'm considering, just have to figure out who could order it for me as I believe they only sell to shops. I heard something about Jasper engines being corrected, but I'm not sure. They're all expensive. Either way the original goes 200+ so even the same crate OE engine replacement would mean 400+k on the vehicle in the end... that's a lot of miles for an old f150 - so it'd probably be the last engine in anyways.
Most chain guides no matter the brand are made of plastic. Some have aluminum that have plastic races. Regardless it would make little difference. It lasts the longest with minimal wear than any other material. The problem as you mentioned is the tentioner gasket blowing out that causes the chain to slap and then break the guides. Check out ford tech make you loco channel. These motors can be fixed. He has complete videos on how to repair anything on this motor. I have one and did just that. I spent 600 dollars in parts and Replaced the tensioners with cast iron ones and it currently has 214,000 miles. Don't ignore the slapping start up! It is fixable. Mine is a 2005.
That is true, on the 3v it's not so much that they're plastic but more a lack of oil flow to them causing them to disintegrate. I'll have to check out his channel! Sounds like it could save a lot of money even if it would prolong the engine life. How long ago did you do the repairs? Have you had any other trouble with it?
@@natestrucks2824 I did the repares about 4 years ago, took me about three days( 4actually as I dropped a wrench in the oil pan which added a day of labor to get it out lol). It had 156,000 miles at the time. It hasn't given me any problems since then. I change mine every 3-5000 miles. So far so good. 🤞 you can also, while you're in there get a high volume oil pump from melling which from what I hear fixes the low flow issues.
@@mmardell9262 That's awesome! Sounds like you caught it early enough. How many miles do you have on it now?
@@natestrucks2824 I just passed 215,500 miles.
Another engine not to buy is the 4.7 liter Magnum along with the 3.7 liter engines from Chrysler. Never ever buy one of those engines. They have oil sludge, head gasket, and intake valve seat failures that causes catastrophic engine failures. They are even worse than the 5.4 3 valve Triton. They also have cracked cylinder heads. These engines are junk. If these engines blow head gaskets or drops valve seats, they also require a new engine and to be honest, there’s a reason why you don’t see many third gen half ton Rams and 3rd gen Dakotas on the road anymore and that’s having to do with its engines. However, the transmissions are more reliable than the second gen trucks. I still see plenty of 99-06 Chevrolet and GMC full size trucks on the road and the 07-13 trucks as well and they are very reliable trucks other than the Active Fuel Management and they are much easier to work on than Fords and Rams. Also don’t forget the 3 valve versions of the 4.6 and the 6.8 V10 also share the same exact problems as the 5.4. AFM or not, they still beat a piece of shit 5.4 3 valve Triton.
For diesel trucks, there are six trucks that you shouldn’t buy:
1. 2008-10 Ford F-250, 350, 450, and 550 with the 6.4 liter PowerStroke.
2. 2003-2007 Ford F-250, 350, 450, and 550 with the 6.0 PowerStroke.
3. 1982-1993 Chevrolet/GMC 6.2 diesel.
4. 1994-2001 Chevrolet/GMC 6.5 diesel.
5. 2014-2018 Ram 1500 EcoDiesel.
6. 1978-1981 Chevrolet or GMC trucks with the infamous 5.7 Oldsmobile diesel.
Great advice! It's funny to me so many mechanics will agree the 5.4l 3v is the worst truck engine of all time. There are other motors that don't get near the miles the 5.4 can, when taken care of. However, I agree the 4.6, 5.4 & 6.8l 3v Triton motors are garbage, especially to own long-term. I own two, haha, from experience I can say DON'T Buy one! I'm just starting to get into issues with my daily driver at 203,000miles, meanwhile my parents suburban with the 5.3l and 280,000miles still runs like a top & has more power than my failing 5.4l. I really wish chevy had never introduced the AFM at all, it really ruined their trucks for me - totally agree they had the longest lasting gas motors out of anybody pre 2006. All of our chevy motors have over 200k and run perfectly, I can't say the same for the two 5.4 3v's in the fleet both just over 200k. The chevy's in our fleet are so easy to keep on the road and require very little repair. I'm always working on our Fords though - not saying some years aren't more reliable.
Speaking from Experience, this is our current gas work fleet: (I'll walk through it in a video one day)
-2004 f150 5.4l 3v 203,000miles
-2008 f250 5.41 3v 204,000miles
-2001 Suburban 5.3l 282,000miles
-1992 Sierra 2500 5.7l 215,000miles
-1994 Sierra 2500 7.4l 325,000miles
-1997 Silverado 3500 7.4l 208,000miles
It's pretty close between 5 4 and the 4 7 I'd say with Chrysler getting the win. I mean loss..I mean....
i have one of the 2004 3V trucks. they do ride and drive nice and in view of current pickup crazy prices, they are a bargain. if you have an engine over l150,000 mile get away from the 5W20 oil, it is too thin for high mileage engines. i went to 10W30 and the idle and stalling problem went away. lucas oil stabiloizer may help. i am going to ruj it till it blows. high mileage and low oil pressure with the thin oil cause problems especially stalling in hot weather. there is an upgrade to the cam followers with larger oil holes. i agree, the plastic chain guides are junk. don't believe the oil pressure guage, it is phony. the oil pressure switch is either on or off for the computer, if you watch the guage you will be missled. the only way to know the oil pressure is to put in a real oil pressure guage.
Too late i already bought one.
Haha, same reaction when I bought mine
You have two but telling everyone not to get one because they have horrible problems I'm going to disagree with you because yes they do have couple things that could have been better but it's still the number one selling truck in America for a reason. I'm huge fan of f150 they are quality built trucks put a chevy next to a Ford climb under and compare the axel's, drive lines, shock mounts, brake's, tie rods just everything is beefier and better built on the Ford look for yourself. Kinda like the Ford's are Harley Davidson and chevys are Toyota ish. I'm done 👍
You bring up a good point actually. 2004 Chevy Silverado or a 2004 Ford f150? I'd probably still take the ford; yes Chevy has a much better drive-train in terms of long-term reliability, but Ford was much farther along in terms of interior comfort and styling. I'll have to get two side-by-side and do a comparison video at some point. I'm also slightly convinced Ford held onto the 3v motors for so long because they didn't realize their problems until later on when they had more miles. Unlike the northsatar engine that wold blow up between 50k-100k. In terms of buying these trucks used in 2022 I do think it is a great idea to be informed on their long-term issues / failures because they do cost a lot of money to fix or put a new motor into - especially at a mechanic's shop. I bought my daily at 150k and the 2nd because I needed an immediate work truck on a budget and that's what there was avaliable at the time. They're overall not a bad motor, but they don't last as long as the old 2v's or a chevy 5.3l. It just depends on how long you want to keep the truck and what you're willing to put up with to have other features you may want, I guess.
th-cam.com/video/JwwenxOfvBE/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Dead 5.4l 3v should it be fixed? (What to use)
th-cam.com/video/xcN_WcGr4BU/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Why the 5.4l is a nightmare (what to use - why the remans don't have issues)
th-cam.com/video/HgwHiLCT3vk/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - A look inside a failed 5.4
th-cam.com/video/wWP3baxDt3w/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Midsized trucks not to buy
th-cam.com/video/RCvKDr7DYYE/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Engines not to buy
th-cam.com/video/g5KxRIqDcds/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - SUV's not to buy
We not talking about the spark plugs blowing out of the 2v that not a problem on my 3v
Nope, not a problem on the Triton. Quite the opposite actually...
Take the Time and replace the parts. Much cheaper than a new motor .. Melling high volume oil pump, Updated chain Tensioners, Updated Phasers, New Timing Chain and Guides, Updated Rocker rollers. Not changing Rocker Rollers will cause catastrophic failure and you will need a new motor for sure ... Replace parts and No more Phaser tick, no more chain slap on startup, no more timing issues. Good to go for another 200K and you get to keep your motor....If you let it go then Guides break and fall into oil pan. Rocker Rollers will chew the cam up and eventually lock down get ejected and motor self destructs. $1100 now or $8000 later
Thanks for the advice! I believe if you did this right as it started to rattle you could get a lot more miles out of the engine. However, if you let the issue go for any length of time, fixing it will only prolong the life of the engine a short time more. Hate to spend the $2,800 fixing the timing system, etc. to have it start rattling again in 30,000miles. Now if I did the work myself for about $300-500 parts it might make more sense. Pretty down on power and fuel economy right now. At this point, I'll keep using the truck for work & around town short trips until the engine decides it's done and then think about throwing a new engine & transmission at it to have a 100% reliable road tripper once again.
Car Wizard's 5.4l 3v Video: th-cam.com/video/xcN_WcGr4BU/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard
th-cam.com/video/JwwenxOfvBE/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Dead 5.4l 3v should it be fixed? (What to use)
th-cam.com/video/xcN_WcGr4BU/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Why the 5.4l is a nightmare (what to use - why the remans don't have issues)
th-cam.com/video/HgwHiLCT3vk/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - A look inside a failed 5.4
th-cam.com/video/wWP3baxDt3w/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Midsized trucks not to buy
th-cam.com/video/RCvKDr7DYYE/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Engines not to buy
th-cam.com/video/g5KxRIqDcds/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - SUV's not to buy
Sparkplug issues: midnightme.com/2017/04/20/ford-5-4-liter-3-valve-spark-plug-issue/
I replaced all 8 on mine no problems. Truck had 190k miles on it when I got it. I think only the original 2 piece spark plugs have that problem. I'm pretty sure the ones I changed was the newer 1 piece that don't break.
You are absolutely correct! The original OEM plugs are the troubled ones. If you're not sure what's in there - take it to a shop! Luckily, most trucks still on the road do not have the originals, but the upgraded plugs. The upgraded plugs with anti-sieze replaced at regular intervals will never have any issues being removed.
2valve 5.4 windsor the king beast like the 5.8 351
Not the most fuel efficient, but a 2v will go forever...
They're only a bad motor if you don't maintain them.
Maintenance goes a long way with these and every engine / vehicle. Oil changes are especially important on these 3v's. However, these engines still all fail the same way and much earlier than they should - even with perfect maintenance. A chevy 5.3, ford 5.0, 3.5, etc. with the same maintenance will go almost 400,000miles - most 3v tritons don't make it much past 250k without major work. Yes they have good power, get good fuel economy, etc. But that still doesn't make them a good engine to own in the long term. I've had several friends who weren't as religious on oil changes and both suffered major engine work / failure early on. One at 115k another at 180k.
th-cam.com/video/JwwenxOfvBE/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Dead 5.4l 3v should it be fixed? (What to use)
th-cam.com/video/xcN_WcGr4BU/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Why the 5.4l is a nightmare (what to use - why the remans don't have issues)
th-cam.com/video/HgwHiLCT3vk/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - A look inside a failed 5.4
th-cam.com/video/wWP3baxDt3w/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Midsized trucks not to buy
th-cam.com/video/RCvKDr7DYYE/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Engines not to buy
th-cam.com/video/g5KxRIqDcds/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - SUV's not to buy
I like watching all the guys OCDing over their 5.4 complaining about how bad it is while it's still running fine, it's an old engine about 200k on it. It's gonna make some noise when starting! It'll outlive a Dodge of the same year I can tell you that much.
Thanks for watching! You have a point with the dodge there ;) ... My f150 has 205k and sounds just like an ecodiesel thanks to those lovely cam phasers, tensioners, and failed guides... It's $2,800 to have the timing gone through and supposedly will only prolong the engine life another 30-50k miles since the main causes are within the block & oil flow. A new engine is $7k but will correct the major issues and last even longer than the original - so at what point do you decide to wait for a new motor vs. try and keep the old one running? The point with these tritons is they will all eventually have the same issues, that are very expensive to fix and if not addressed can leave you stranded or without your truck.
th-cam.com/video/JwwenxOfvBE/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Dead 5.4l 3v should it be fixed? (What to use)
th-cam.com/video/xcN_WcGr4BU/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Why the 5.4l is a nightmare (what to use - why the remans don't have issues)
th-cam.com/video/HgwHiLCT3vk/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - A look inside a failed 5.4
th-cam.com/video/wWP3baxDt3w/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Midsized trucks not to buy
th-cam.com/video/RCvKDr7DYYE/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Engines not to buy
th-cam.com/video/g5KxRIqDcds/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - SUV's not to buy
@@natestrucks2824 it would probably be more thsn than 50k with a brand new chain and guide, if I understood right the defect is in the oil injected phasers that use the oil pressure of the engine to self adjustment the rollers and lifters, the seals go bad and makes the chain shake and the lifters tap, Check out a video called Bullet proofing your 5.4 there is an after market timing system you can get installef that fixes that problem forever, I haven't had that problem with my 5.4 yet but if I do that would be the best fix in my opinion.
@@joshjohnson6163 Awesome, will do, thank you!
The two valve I seen with 630,000 miles on it.
I like mine I. Baby it. Change the oil early.
They're nice trucks! I do the same thing and hope to get at least 35-40k more out of it. Oil changes are key!
@@natestrucks2824 I have 141k on mine now. If starts making the noise in the future. It will be addressed at that point and fixed.
@@Chuck1855 Oh nice! I've had mine since 153k, now have 204k. Hopefully that'll last you a long time.
Still debating on what to do with mine - I may sell it or just drive it till it is worse & replace the motor. I think It would be cool to 4bt diesel swap it or something, but I may just put in a reman motor & have the trans rebuilt. Nothing's cheap so probably all wishful thinking
Ford Driver Returning On Foot that’s ford spelled backwards lol
Haha, Love it!
2004-2005 were the absolute worst years for the 3v understandly because they were new. Mine is an 06 with 200k on it and thenonly issue its presented me with was a bad #1 injector sticking open. 2007 had an issue the the crank thrush washer that would allow the crank the walk back and forth and ruin the mains. From 2008+ these engines were updated maybe in 09' but the roller followers were notorius for breaking on these years. Hinestly, these engines arent horrible ive ran seafoam through mine and never had a single spark plug removal issue and i use a qt ofnlucas with every synthetic oil change. 👍🤞
Use 5w30 synthetic oil on these trucks guys!! It works!!
I've had two Ford mechanics tell me to stay with the 5W20 Mercon LV Synthetic and never run the 5W30 unless the oil pump has been upgraded to the High Volume after-market oil pump.
@ChrisGraham The more research I do, the more I agree with this. Ford specs 5w-20 for a reason and they've never updated that to 5w-30 no matter how many people say to run it. By the way, yes Ford has changed oil weight specs on other vehicles years later. Even with an upgraded performance pump, the VVT system is still designed to operate off of 5w-20. The problem is in the block & timing components, not the weight of the oil.
@@natestrucks2824 The catastrophic failures of this engine seems to always begin with the destruction of the plastic timing chain guide followers. A small broken piece of the guides gets caught in the timing chain and bumps the timing out of sequence and the guide pieces block the oil pick-up to starve the engine for oil. From that point, destruction is inevitable. Ford kept manufacturing the same guide design and material, year after year without resolving the issue. I'm surprised there isn't a class action suit active against Ford.
@@chrisgraham2904 Great comment! Totally agree with this! Ford kept using the 5.4l 3v Triton for almost 20 years in their e-series line! Just doesn't make sense to me. I think they can get away with it since the issues really don't kill them until they're at higher miles
@@natestrucks2824 Yes, by the time the engine fails, the vehicle is out of warranty and engine failure isn't a direct safety concern like non functioning brakes.
2003 5.4 3v 🔛🔝
I’ve got 285k on mine sorry but if you take care of things they last. Actually waiting for it to puke so I can stroke it up to 4.7.
That's awesome! And super true, the better you maintain an engine the longer it will last. Unfortunately most of the 3v tritons won't last as long as other engines because of some minor wear points that fail and lock the engine up. Oil changes are key to making these last
Are all 06 5.4 triton motors 3valve
That's a great question! In short, no. However, it is more difficult to find a 2v motor in anything newer than 2003. They still put them in some of their work packages and whatnot until 2008 or 10 I believe (Take that with a grain of salt). The 5.4l 3v was completely discontinued in 2014. Here's a link to an article that can help you figure out which engine you have: agradetools.com/illustrated-guide-how-to-tell-2v-vs-3v-5-4l-ford-engine-fast/
No not used in Ford vans, run the VIN number and if I find out if that don't help the front of the valve covers have around cops where the vvt sit inside with plug at top front of valve cover for vvt solenoid
Sounds like Ford's newest Edsel.😏
its not a terrible engine if you do a few up grades ...use 5-30 oil ,not 5-20...replace the stock oil pump with a high volume one from Melling it will increase oil flow by 25%.....and install the upgraded cam followers
2010 5.4 with 250k on it.... this motor is a POS I've done everything you can possibly to it to keep this this running amsoil always . Top end rebuild at 75k I can go on & on stay away from the 5.4... I baby this thing and something always fucks up! Flex plate & heater core are now the new problem oh forgot the radio. Nightmare!!!!
Oh man that does sound like a headache! Have you owned the truck since new? Sounds like you've got quite a few miles on it. I've really liked my truck, haven't really had any other issues besides the common ones. The timing system is currently failing... bummer. Take just as good care of a 5.4 2v or a chevy 5.3l and you'd be able to get 400k easy out of the thing, not the factory 3v though...
@@natestrucks2824 bought it with 76k at 90k the engine went.. with a 20k loan she almost went up in 🔥 if you know what I mean lol
@@lennymorris22 Ouch!
New motor $6000 to $8000k or a new truck $38,000 to $78,000 which is better for you 🤔
Exactly! Well worth it these days if the truck's still nice!
Change oil change your oil. 5w30 semi synthetic only.
Oil changes are so important on these!
Fix your engine RIGHT NOW...don't wait for something to break. You can replace the components that are making the noise with upgraded parts and that truck will be good for many years to come. Yes, it sucks to take a 2-5000 dollar hit, but consider what it would cost to replace that truck for comparison. If the rest of the vehicle is in good order, that would be the smart move.
im going to see a 06 f250 with a 3v triton tomorrow for 15 grand has 111k miles on it. has a po420 code on it. im gonna offer 11 grand b/c of this video. thanks.
Thanks for watching! Did you get the truck? Looks like that's a catalytic converter code? Might be an expensive fix if you live somewhere with emissions. Not very miles, should last you quite a few years with good maintenance. Do you tow quite a bit? We have a 08 f250 work package with the 5.4l that's got 204k and still runs & pulls good.
th-cam.com/video/JwwenxOfvBE/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Dead 5.4l 3v should it be fixed? (What to use)
th-cam.com/video/xcN_WcGr4BU/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Why the 5.4l is a nightmare (what to use - why the remans don't have issues)
th-cam.com/video/HgwHiLCT3vk/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - A look inside a failed 5.4
th-cam.com/video/wWP3baxDt3w/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Midsized trucks not to buy
th-cam.com/video/RCvKDr7DYYE/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - Engines not to buy
th-cam.com/video/g5KxRIqDcds/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CarWizard - SUV's not to buy
@@natestrucks2824 i actually ended up trading my 04 ford escape with a blow 3rd and overdrive gear for a running driving rusted 01 Silverado 2500. then I ended up selling it for a bit over junk value to my buddy who's going to use the 6.0 l in his vette. I ended up buying a 5.7L dodge ram 2500 with the 8ft bed. I got a killer deal on it too its an 04 with only 88k miles on it, has no rust, no rot, everything works on the truck. It was only 11.5K i basically stole it off the guy.
@@BlacknRedSN95 That's awesome dude!
Only use the new motorcradt st546 spark plug. Imporved design.
So important to use the improved design plugs and replace them every 60k! If you do that, you'll avoid problems with them entirely