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Get involved with the 2018 camera giveaway at mattgranger.com/win LINKS Canon 85mm f1.2: geni.us/KWaQAwJ Nikon 70-200mm (latest): geni.us/70200e Awesome TAMRON 70-200: geni.us/tamron70200g2
This is actually really good news. As a concert photographer, I'm most concerned with light gathering and I bought the Tamron 24-70 2.8 because it was more affordable. I'm looking at a 70-200 next, and this video makes me feel better about getting the Tamron over the Canon. I was mainly looking at the Tamron because it's more affordable, but I felt like I may have been making a poor choice as I see more photographers here in LA with the Canon. Seems like the Tamron may be better for my purposes, while being cheaper to boot!
nothing gives me more pleasure then to listen to someone who knows what hes talking about ,great stuff and by the way awsome move with the 1dx i would love a video about how you will set it up since I'm sure your not going to leave all settings as it came out of the box thanks and great luck with it
Matt - Just found this gem of a video today (4/23/17). Goes to show that an old dog like me can still learn a "new trick." Thanks for the understandable clarification of a "T" stop. Of course, using a camera's TTL meter will automatically compensate for any difference. BUT...your good explanation indicates why my images "may" be slightly underexposed when using a hand meter. Thanks again.
For those that are not annoyed by manual focus, the Cinema lens are really great, and there is a possibility to get the Rokinon/Samyang lenses for very very affordable prices. When you mesure in T stops its very simple to get your exposure right while you change lens, cause the amount of light getting in will always be the same. Im using it for filming of course, but, even they are heavier, without autofocus, lets say, completely manual, I surprise myself almost not using my other lenses anymore even for photography. Cause the result just looks great
I'm extremely annoyed by manual focus for two reasons; I have no focus peaking built into my camera and if I'm using a photography lens, most of them have that annoying af dynamic geared focusing making manually focusing a nightmare.
Very informative video, thanks. I noticed this when shooting my most recent weather vid. Had to put an ND8 filter on the end of my Samyang 35mm F1.4 with t value 1.7 where as the 70-200 2.8 with its t value 3.4 was able to film ok in same light without needing ND8 to pull back the light a little. Same ISO and 1/50 sec F8, the difference was amazing back to back.
You're right Matt. My Canon 24-105 f/4L has a t stop according to DXO of f/5.1. And if I use sunny f/16 rule on a bright sunny day I get about 2/3 stop underexposure, which proves it.
At first I didn't creat about the T value until I leant the destruction the ISO do the dynamic range. A lens with good at T value keeps the ISO low and the dynamic range high.
I literally learned about DXO mark sharing a lens T-stop value only a couple of days ago. While they have quite the collection, I just wish they had more lenses tested. The prohibitive cost of cinema lenses makes my eyes water; however, I love the long focus throw, the higher number of aperture blades, and the explicitly stated t-stop value upfront. My dream lens is a 50mm f/t 0.95~1.2 with 20 blades aperture and a long focus throw for precise manual focus... aahhhhh... one can only dream!
Great tutorial! Is there a website where you can get the F-stop conversions to T-stop conversions for each make and model, and also for each F-stop opening?
Thanks for putting this out there. While the faults of any lens may not be the topic of concern, you have shown ratings on a page like DXOmark that does measure lens performance on more than one scale. Implicit recommendations to buy lenses with better T-stop performance are created, but offsetting faults are there, they do become relevant and should be mentioned...actually more relevant comparing lenses than engines + final drive performance. T-stops are useful first in comparing lenses.
Exellent information Matt! But in still photography, T-number doesn't matter that much nowadays because sensor signal processing techology = very good modest to high ISO quality.
Only yesterday I realised what a big deal the t-stop is. Pitching my kit zoom lens at f3.4 vs a vintage Rokkor at the same aperture,iso and shutter speed ... The difference is huge! I always thought an f3.4 is the same light regardless of the lens. Gosh I tried shooting northern lights with the kit lens needing 3-5 seconds of exposure time at ISO 1600
One of the important aspects of the T-number is that it's supposed to be a calibrated measurement instead of just a rough calculation (and that's what the aperture numbers are). The theory is that if you swap, e.g., a 20mm at a T-number of 4 with a 70mm at T 4, you end up with the same transmission, and thus the same brightness. It becomes quite obvious to see why such calibration would be desirable for shooting movies on film, and in extension why the T-number is prevalent in movie lenses.
hey MATT your videos are always quite interesting.... one of the few on youtube who knows how to make it interesting..... mark wallace, matt granger.....hmmm I would say superman & batman from marvel....lol
Thank you Matt - a few questions come to mind. Is the difference between F value and T value linear through the aperture range of the lens. Is there a sharpness trade off when the F and T values are close, maybe cine lens designers counting on the persistence of vision trade sharpness for brightness? Is it the case that a prime lens will always have a better F to T relationship over a zoom - more glass more loss etc. Love your work - don't change your name, branding identity is important ok
You got it wrong, Matt. F stop is determined by the diameter of the front glass element. Aperture can be located further in the light path and can be of a significantly smaller diameter than the front glass element.
The difference between F stop and T stop can be demonstrated easily on STF lenses, like the Sony/Minolta STF 135mm F2.8 T4.5. The light loss is due to the use of an apodization filter that provides the high-quality bokeh effect.
Before multi-coating the difference between F and T stops was even bigger. The early zooms from the 1970s were a stop slower than single focal length lenses, which had far fewer elements.
Awesome. I didn't know any of this! Still i wonder when looking to the canon 85 is that difference in T value of just 0.1 really worth double the price? I always wonder with this kind of thing whether you'll actually see the difference.
Get involved with the 2018 camera giveaway at mattgranger.com/win
LINKS
Canon 85mm f1.2: geni.us/KWaQAwJ
Nikon 70-200mm (latest): geni.us/70200e
Awesome TAMRON 70-200: geni.us/tamron70200g2
Did you just made an analogy between a car and a camera? Awesome!!!!! Vast knowledge mate very vast knowledge! Keep on teaching Master!!!
This is actually really good news. As a concert photographer, I'm most concerned with light gathering and I bought the Tamron 24-70 2.8 because it was more affordable. I'm looking at a 70-200 next, and this video makes me feel better about getting the Tamron over the Canon. I was mainly looking at the Tamron because it's more affordable, but I felt like I may have been making a poor choice as I see more photographers here in LA with the Canon. Seems like the Tamron may be better for my purposes, while being cheaper to boot!
Excellent, that was the most simple and clear explanation I've seen. Thanks.
nothing gives me more pleasure then to listen to someone who knows what hes talking about ,great stuff and by the way awsome move with the 1dx i would love a video about how you will set it up since I'm sure your not going to leave all settings as it came out of the box thanks and great luck with it
Yes, thanks Matt. Excellent information and T-stops should be talked about much more and strongly considered when buying a new lens.
Matt - Just found this gem of a video today (4/23/17). Goes to show that an old dog like me can still learn a "new trick."
Thanks for the understandable clarification of a "T" stop. Of course, using a camera's TTL meter will automatically compensate for any difference. BUT...your good explanation indicates why my images "may" be slightly underexposed when using a hand meter. Thanks again.
I don't want to give this a thumbs up, I want to give it a heart or something. Well done sir!
For those that are not annoyed by manual focus, the Cinema lens are really great, and there is a possibility to get the Rokinon/Samyang lenses for very very affordable prices. When you mesure in T stops its very simple to get your exposure right while you change lens, cause the amount of light getting in will always be the same. Im using it for filming of course, but, even they are heavier, without autofocus, lets say, completely manual, I surprise myself almost not using my other lenses anymore even for photography. Cause the result just looks great
Y-A d'Ouradou 为爱度 lucky rich pal
I'm extremely annoyed by manual focus for two reasons; I have no focus peaking built into my camera and if I'm using a photography lens, most of them have that annoying af dynamic geared focusing making manually focusing a nightmare.
For some reason the explanation of the difference between the two terms never really stuck, but this time it did. Thanks for making this!
Very informative video, thanks. I noticed this when shooting my most recent weather vid. Had to put an ND8 filter on the end of my Samyang 35mm F1.4 with t value 1.7 where as the 70-200 2.8 with its t value 3.4 was able to film ok in same light without needing ND8 to pull back the light a little. Same ISO and 1/50 sec F8, the difference was amazing back to back.
Excellent video Mr Granger. Well explained, to the point, plenty of examples. Thumbs up.
Best photo teacher on the tech side of things I've ever learnt from! Get your geek out!
absolutely correct, it is just a measure of light transmission - not overall quality
Thanks for keeping those old posts alive !
IMO this is the best video you've put out in a while Matt, really clear and simple. Thanks!
You're right Matt. My Canon 24-105 f/4L has a t stop according to DXO of f/5.1. And if I use sunny f/16 rule on a bright sunny day I get about 2/3 stop underexposure, which proves it.
Thank you matt .. video from 9 years ago helping newcomer like me.
I love it when you talk real photography.
Thank you mat.
At first I didn't creat about the T value until I leant the destruction the ISO do the dynamic range.
A lens with good at T value keeps the ISO low and the dynamic range high.
I literally learned about DXO mark sharing a lens T-stop value only a couple of days ago. While they have quite the collection, I just wish they had more lenses tested. The prohibitive cost of cinema lenses makes my eyes water; however, I love the long focus throw, the higher number of aperture blades, and the explicitly stated t-stop value upfront. My dream lens is a 50mm f/t 0.95~1.2 with 20 blades aperture and a long focus throw for precise manual focus... aahhhhh... one can only dream!
Well the 'T' thing is a new one for me ... great info man and very well explained (love your car transmission analogy!) thank you!
Sweet explanation, no waffle straight to the point
I was wondering what was difference between the two. Really well explained thank you!
Great explanation with some good analogies Matt. Keep up the great work.
Thanks Matt Granger for this informative tutorial!
Learned something new today. Nice.
Great tutorial! Is there a website where you can get the F-stop conversions to T-stop conversions for each make and model, and also for each F-stop opening?
This is a truly helpful video, thank you so much Matt.
Thanks for this Matt, it's explained something I've been thinking about in the past and didn't quite understand.
Ohh, finally someone that pronounces Nikon right. It's Nee-con, not Ni-con
Finally an explanation what were wrong with my lenses, why they trow different results between different lenses.
thank you Matt =)
Well you learn something new every day. Certainly on this channel.
wow thanks for this video
i have a rokinon t1.4 and a canon f1.2 and i never knew how they compared now i do thanks :)
Amazing... Yet another reason to go w/ the Tamron 24-70 f/2.8 Excellent. Great Vid!
thanks for making this video! I never would have known about t-stops if it weren't for this! omw to dxo now!
Thanks you. It was well explained. I now understand better the difference.
Thank you for this video , I was not aware of this "t" factor , but now it is clear :)
Appreciate the straight-forward explanation. Thanks!
Thanks for putting this out there. While the faults of any lens may not be the topic of concern, you have shown ratings on a page like DXOmark that does measure lens performance on more than one scale. Implicit recommendations to buy lenses with better T-stop performance are created, but offsetting faults are there, they do become relevant and should be mentioned...actually more relevant comparing lenses than engines + final drive performance. T-stops are useful first in comparing lenses.
Incredibly helpful video!
Exellent information Matt!
But in still photography, T-number doesn't matter that much nowadays because sensor signal processing techology = very good modest to high ISO quality.
Very well explained thanks Matt!
Brilliant theme coverage! Thank you Matt!
Dug for those crazy klingon forehead expressions of that guy ;)
Only yesterday I realised what a big deal the t-stop is. Pitching my kit zoom lens at f3.4 vs a vintage Rokkor at the same aperture,iso and shutter speed ... The difference is huge! I always thought an f3.4 is the same light regardless of the lens. Gosh I tried shooting northern lights with the kit lens needing 3-5 seconds of exposure time at ISO 1600
Learned something new today. Thanks Matt!
nice revision. Those films and youtube are still not the domain of Australian law.
Great video Matt, i already did have some kind of clue what T-stop was, but now you've teached it to us in a very good way! :)
Well done Matt.
As usual, great video Matt
When are you gonna drag yourself to Melbourne again?
Brilliant, thanks mate
Excellent video, Matt! I love your technical stuff and I'd love to see some more videos like this!
Thanks for sharing this old one - didn't know f vs t difference :)
Really explains aperture well
Great heckle once again DP. lucky for us you were early to upload clips from White Chicks and other copyright material.
Always enjoy your videos. Informative and easily understood.
Keep it up !
Thank you for the breakdown - very clear!
Your maximum possible F stop is limited by the front diameter, but the aperture is determined by the blade opening diameter.
This was extremely educational. Thank you
One of the important aspects of the T-number is that it's supposed to be a calibrated measurement instead of just a rough calculation (and that's what the aperture numbers are). The theory is that if you swap, e.g., a 20mm at a T-number of 4 with a 70mm at T 4, you end up with the same transmission, and thus the same brightness.
It becomes quite obvious to see why such calibration would be desirable for shooting movies on film, and in extension why the T-number is prevalent in movie lenses.
Very interesting Matt,
I learnt something new today, thanks to you.
That was a very well done and informative video
HA! Thanks Matt, The website just informed me that my lenses are not very good. Great video.
Well that explains the problem I had with the canon 70-200mm USM at the rodeo. I was having to shoot at my highest ISO.
Cool information, thank you. And hey, My Tamron lens did pretty well!
Thanks James
Nice and clear, also the comparison with motorcycle hp, on the wheel or on the crankshaft. Back on topic, how do I find the t-stop on my lenses?
Most photo lenses do not publish it. Some websites test it though.
cheers Maher
Killer explanation!
great video Matt, thanks.
hey MATT your videos are always quite interesting.... one of the few on youtube who knows how to make it interesting..... mark wallace, matt granger.....hmmm I would say superman & batman from marvel....lol
Great lesson as usual Matt. I was just wondering about it couple of days ago. Now I got it :)
Great video, thanks!
Thanks!
Great piece of info. Thanks for posting!
True. Besides, the power of post-processing fixes almost everything ;)
Thank you Matt - a few questions come to mind. Is the difference between F value and T value linear through the aperture range of the lens. Is there a sharpness trade off when the F and T values are close, maybe cine lens designers counting on the persistence of vision trade sharpness for brightness? Is it the case that a prime lens will always have a better F to T relationship over a zoom - more glass more loss etc. Love your work - don't change your name, branding identity is important ok
You got it wrong, Matt. F stop is determined by the diameter of the front glass element. Aperture can be located further in the light path and can be of a significantly smaller diameter than the front glass element.
This was a very useful video. Thank you!
Great explanation, thanks.
The difference between F stop and T stop can be demonstrated easily on STF lenses, like the Sony/Minolta STF 135mm F2.8 T4.5. The light loss is due to the use of an apodization filter that provides the high-quality bokeh effect.
Awesome video Matt!
Wow! Thank you for the information. I was wondering for a while!
This is why I love your videos!
wonderful explanation!
Thank you for being a great teacher... :)
All your videos are a great help! I have Sigma for lenses, will check them out on the site later today...
Amazing video, and very informative!
Interessting. Learned something new with this.
Lovely explanation. Much appreciated.
yep - and at a reasonable price.
Sigma 35mm f1.4 (T1.5) FTW! Made me love this lens that much more!
You're right. Although the Tamron has more t stop, dxomark says the Tamron has more chromatic aberration and vignetting.
Before multi-coating the difference between F and T stops was even bigger. The early zooms from the 1970s were a stop slower than single focal length lenses, which had far fewer elements.
I never understood the diff...
Thanks Matt!
and how do i see my lenses t-stop ? does it say on Nikon and Cannon specs ? is Dxo Mark Legit ? Very nice video. Thank you Matt
Thanks for the info, it has been very useful
Hi there! excelente video! you solve all my questions. What do you have to say about the diferences between Rokinon's 35mm f1.4 and the T 1.5?
Fantastic video. I learned a lot!
Awesome. I didn't know any of this! Still i wonder when looking to the canon 85 is that difference in T value of just 0.1 really worth double the price? I always wonder with this kind of thing whether you'll actually see the difference.
Excellent info, Matt
Keep up the good work.
J,M,
Excellent video, very useful information. 👍 Can you share the DXO page link please?
🍻 Cheers 🍻