Most PROS use this Camera Mode 98.7% of the Time!
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Chapters
00:00 Why Manual Mode isn’t ALWAYS ideal
01:03 The mode 90% Photographers use!
02:30 How to use Aperture Priority Better!
05:05 Support the Channel!
05:35 The mode you should use for HIGH SPEED ACTION!
Don't forget as a photographer, your priority is to capture the subject! I shoot a lot of events (parties, concerts, etc) where often the lighting is trash and using a flash can be distracting. I always use A but I also set higher limits on ISO so I can keep a higher shutter speed to capture faster movements. The noise may bug me, but my clients love how in the moment and action focused my stuff is. One helpful thing is that Lightroom's AI noise filter is actually quite good now so it compensates well for the extra noise.
Amen on just getting the shot!
I have no problem going to ISO 25600 on Sony and 51200 on Nikon. Just use an appropriate RAW processor for denoising. I'm using DXO PR3 and it does a phenomenal job.
Also I see people who post noisy, high clarity, low exposure, over edited pictures on Instagram and people praise the pics while the photographers like us think its trash. People that don't know about exposure, iso, bokeh, etc. don't care.
It's funny. I can't stand noise in my photos, but the people who buy them totally do not care.
Knocked it out if the park with this one. I love the knowledge amd I loved the fast editing. Great job Jason.
Keep these short but informative tutorial videos coming, Jason!
Love this video. As someone who is a self-taught photographer I’ve been working on learning how to keep my images crisp and not blurry. Your breakdown on shutter speed is very helpful and I’ll be sure to use all of the other great tips given in this video. 🙏🏾
Jason, I love your energy and charisma. I didn't subscribe on the first video of you, but kept coming back. Now i got that subscription set to All. Thanks for the amazing fun filled contents!
Thank you Jason for another great video! Simple and straight to the point, easy to understand!
Yep, as a pro wire service sports photographer for 15 years, when I'm not shooting Manual (which I do when I can), I either shoot in Av, or Manual with Auto ISO. Auto ISO doesn't work in all cameras, so in that case, when lighting is changing quickly, or unpredictably, it's Av all the way.
I learned with an all manual film camera years ago. Murphy's Law dictates that if I am in A mode, I'll soon be confronted with a situation where I want to control the shutter; if I am in S mode, I'll want to control the aperture. I am normally in M mode so I can control both. ISO is usually fixed at base, although I'll occasionally use auto-ISO but will [hopefully] monitor it carefully.
I'm always in Aperture priority with ISOASS turned on which limits how low the shutter speed can go. I shoot in a lot of dark places and with my 85mm, it can be quite difficult when the shutter speed is dropping to 1/20 and such. ISOASS allows me to keep it at 1/60, 1/120 as minimum etc and then auto ISO takes up the slack. Its a winning formula. I'm also permanently at -2ev, never have to move it.
any idea how to set that on an A7iii/A7c
@@DDHDTV there's setting something called iso auto minimum shutter speed in the menu
Why the -2 EV? Isn't a standard ev best and u can adjust it or
Oh that’s cool, never tried ISOASS, my issue is I don’t want my shutter going crazy either, like I don’t want my camera to say “oh ok let’s go to ISO8000 and shutter speed 1/800
@@PuReXtremeGaming Because it always meters too bright and overexposes stuff. Once you full well a pixel you can't retrieve data. Its much easier to recover stuff from shadows
Your videos are more inspirational and have more learning effect than any book or video. Thank you for your content and for sharing your experience with us.
Great video!!! Extremely helpful
Setting the ISO higher in Aperture Priority to get a faster shutter rate is a great tip.
You just set Auto ISO with min shutter speed, you don't ever need to fiddle with the ISO manually.
yea 1000 is a good spot
I shoot with an A7iv. My Memory Recall settings are 1) AP. SS min 1/125, ISO min 100 max 6400 (daytime shooting). 2) AP. SS min 1/250 ISO min 100 max 12800 (nightime shooting). 3) MANUAL. Exposure Composition when needed. I primarily shoot with the Zeiss Batis 40mm f2. These settings have worked very well for me. Just thought I'd pass on the info. Aloha Jason, mahalo for another great video.
@thedarksurfer this is a great tip man! I just upgraded from an A7C to A7RV and these tips are brilliant.
I shot alot in aperture priority when I first got into photography and learning. I only shoot manual now just cause I just dont want the camera choosing anything for me. Id rather deal with my mistakes in not changing settings than getting upset the camera didnt meter the way I thought it would.
Always excited for Jason's new vids. whatever it is!
Much appreciated!!
Thank you very much for this very helpful video. This is exactly what I needed to get me started.
Fantastic info especially for beginner like me. With the safe bet numbers for each mode… huge help thanks
Definitely will try these settings when I shoot next. I’m still learning on my Canon M50 and learned with Manual like other videos so much emphasize on but watching this makes sense to try in certain situations 👍🏽👍🏽 plus giving me a better understanding of what my camera can do. TY
Great video! I almost exclusively shoot Manual for my landscapes, and of course astro, but when shooting wildlife I actually turn on auto ISO, and set the minimum and maximum ISO value that I’m comfortable with. I’ve found this is absolutely the easiest and most effective way to deal with frequently changing lighting conditions while still allowing me to control the shutter speed (important for moving subjects) and aperture (to maintain desired depth of field). I’ve used the custom programs to save specific camera settings for landscapes and wildlife so I can easily jump back and forth between the setups.
A mode is pretty much what I use for 95% of my shooting. I consider control of depth of field top priority almost over everything else and prefer the other settings to adjust automatically around this 👍🏽
I actually liked this video..... its nice to see these in the mix..... I know your pro sony... but I really enjoy these videos the most ...... very educational
Right videos comes at right time. Thank you.
As a new photographer in the last 4 months (Sony A7IV) this video was beyond helpful. Super thanks!!! Also, i captured a few pics yesterday and have been in awe. This video just motivates me more!!😎
Let’s go!!!
another shorty-meaty day! learned lots! thanks!
Helpful as always
awesome!! lot of great tips in this video!
Awesome video mate. The min & max ISO for both modes I never knew were a thing and same with changing the exposure comp. Keen to get out and see how much nicer it is!
I never understood why there is a min auto ISO setting. It's always the base ISO 100, why would ever want anything different? The only Auto ISO settings that make sense are max ISO and min SS.
That was a wonderful video presentation. Thank you very much. 😊
I have been using Aperture priority for the past year. It’s awesome. I manually set my ISO and aperture and the camera does the rest.
Very helpful video. I’ve never used Exposure Compensation on a regular basis. For ISO, I usually set the max at 6400.
Jason, one thing I would add about the reciprocal of the focal length as minimum shutter speed for handheld, is that a lot of cameras (in some cases, lenses) have built-in image stabilization. I know the pitfall in this, but for the most part those work quite well to give you an extra couple of stops in handheld capability, especially if they stabilize on multiple axes. (axises? whatever). I am currently looking at a full frame camera with up to 7 stops IS, which in independent tests worked out to a realistic 5 stops, and thinking about never buying a flash for it.
Another excellent video, thank you
great tips. On a7iv and a7rv, i am always using mode A for portrait and sport with min shutter speed set either to 1/250s or 1/1000s with a custom button. iso auto max 1600. i use a preset "3" for manual exposure 1/60sec F/2.8 iso fix 400 (decouple exposure comp and iso in menu for manual mode so easy to adjust iso with second wheel) for quick setup for low light photo and flash photo. I am not fan of S mode changing aperture and sometimes side effects with iso...
Thank you. A few of your videos have helped me a ton. Do you have any editing/post-processing classes you can recommend?
For photos, my friend @professorhines got some great editing stuff on his channel!
You have very good assistant. Great work I accidentally came to your channel it is great one !from Australia 🇦🇺
This is why I keep shooting manual even when not using speedlight.
Still so much to configure and think about, based on what you need to avoid or want...avoid blur, overexposure etc.
Why the roundabout, just learn manual and enjoy! 😊
Non sense set the iso to auto with aperture priority and you are done lol.
At most you have to just set ONCE or adapt how fast you want your iso limits and shutter speed to be if 1/FL or faster depending on lighting conditions ie fastest in indoor events since no one wants that blurry people. Set that again ONCE and then shoot the night away.
Compare that in going to manual where you Control 3 variables for every shot is hilarious
@@elo0915 if it was that simple you would not have written this long explanation. Nonsense. You know it's not that simple. 😂
@@elo0915 in manual you don't get to control 3 settings (variables) but only what is needed based on the situations unless the others are needed to help with exposure. Manual gets me the images exposed just the way I want. 😂
I agree. Manual is the only way for me. The truth is, it's the same workflow. If Aperature is important to me, I just set it and manipulate the other two settings. Same with shutter speed. You're often adjusting two of the 3 variables at any given time as 1 of the 3 typically is an absolute for what you're trying to accomplish.
There is only one "proper" exposure based on available light and artistic expression. How you get to it is not important. Typically, however, it is best if you can get to it as quickly and easily as possible. For me lately that has been Flv mode on Canon. But who cares? Whatever works for you! I do think, however, that some people shoot manual just because they think that's what "pros" do. Increasingly, that's no longer the case.
If you shoot AV mode the camera will blow out the highlights so you have to manually adjust the exposure compensation via a dial. If you shoot in manual and know your aperture already, you also have to adjust a dial (either ISO or shutter speed). It’s the same result as far as I’m concerned, either way you have to manual a dial, only one approach requires less dial operations as your camera is no longer guessing what’s important and blowing highlights whenever you change composition.
depending on the occasion (private or paid work) i use aperture priority or manual. What both have in common: Auto ISO - especially in manual. Cause lets face it: you controll shutter speed for freezing action / movement (or dont if you're goin for that), you adjust your aperture to controll depth of field, and maybe the light itself... which will leave you with ISO as the "only" variable. So i let the camera decide. Only if want to underexpose to save the sky or want a silhouette i start to controll iso manually (or use Exposure Compensation if i'm lazy)
for private use or on vaccations, i mostly use aperture prio with auto ISO set to a minimum shutter speed... works like a charm.
and maybe you see a pattern here: the only thing i will ALWAYS stay in controll of is aperture - cause in my opinion this has the most impact into the look and feel of an image.
just my 2 cents
EDIT: 3200 max for APS-C? thats lowballing for todays cameras, my limit is 12800 on a Fuji X-H2 - yes its stupid high, but the noise pattern of this camera has a certain look that i like, especially if i go for black and white images. And with the new AI noise reduction options we have today, its even less of a problem...
As much as I agree that pros will use Ap or shutter priority most of the time, beginners are not pros yet. For their journey in the study and practice of photography I think it is still better that they learn in manual mode first. Then when they really understand what they are doing in manual mode then using Ap or shutter priority to facilitate getting the shots they want in a more streamlined way is a better way of learning and developing a better sense for photography. Jumping straight to Ap without spending some time practicing in manual mode first is like trying to learn a pop song on piano without going through the fundamentals of learning how to play basic notes and scales first. I shoot in Ap primarily now but I spent the first three years of shooting photography only shooting in manual mode, because of this I feel I am better at recognizing when Ap, shutter priority, or manual mode will be better and am comfortable going into full manual when either Ap or shutter priority is not going to work for a specific situation (for example with studio strobes I prefer to be shooting manual mode).
Absolutely agree with you. I rarely shoot any fast moving subjects and today's cameras are so good with metering, focusing, etc that I stopped using manual mode many years ago. So I very rarely use anything other than aperture priority and auto ISO with a sensible minimum shutter speed.
As always Jason thank you
I agree with Jason... when there is time, Manual mode is great. When time is scarce.. then P (Program mode) or A modes are better.
Aloha JV,
I started using AP about three or four years ago after you did a video on the a6400 or ZV1. It has been a godsend. Mahalo for all you do. You know like getting me into the Ricoh GR3 Dairy Edition and the X100V for creative outlet shooting 😂
I love you my wallet and other half hate you 😂😂😂😂
I prefer to be in control of 2 of my settings for almost all situations. I use manual mode with auto ISO a lot. If I see my ISO getting too high I will decide if I can lower the shutter speed, open the aperture or both.
In my case, I normally do wildlife photography where freezing the subject use to be the most important thing. So I normally use the shutter speed priority and it's wonderful.
Super awesome video Sir. Thank you
Nice Vid, well explained.
It’s like my grandpappy always said “you cant go wrong with vong”
Thanks for your advice. I am shooting an indoor portrait series. I set aperture to a constant 1.6 [lens is a bit sharper than on 1.4]. The darkest scene would require ISO 1000 at 1/125, the slowest shutter speed I am willing to manage.
Do you recommend shooting permanently at this ISO and let the camera decide which shutterspeed to use? The alternative is Auto-Is where my Fuji could choose ISO so that shutterspeed will not be under 1/125. This second option ensures best ISO for every single image, but first option guarantees optimal consistency across all photos in my series.
Would love to see something like this for video shooters and how you are shooting run and gun or changing natural light situations.
Great video!
Many thanks for the useful tips.. Peace
I had been shooting in manual mode all the time until I went on trip to the mountains, I ended up using aperture priority 99% of the time. It's really convenient.
It’s better to describe the ISO as the sensor’s sensitivity to light. That transfers well from the days of film ASA or ISO.
Very good video... Very well explained, thanks
Upload more, please, and bring The Professor too... ❤
Thanks for dumbing that down a bit! truly helpful.
Thanks for the great tips.
My main issue with using manual mode is that my camera often goes extremely bright or dark on the exposure meter right after I activate it. Even when it's nice outside, or there's enough light showing even indoors where I shouldn't be seeing darkness in my camera. And the main way to fix this is increasing the shutter speed all the way up, which doesn't make much sense to me.
I normally prefer aperture priority because not only does everything look right and the shutter speed is chosen automatically, I also get to adjust the exposure compensation dial when necessary, especially if the scene looks too dark or maybe the brightness is higher than I would like.
Great information thank you very much Jason,
Top man 👍👍👍
Auto iso is my go to. Can just keep an eye on it and drop shutter speed if needed or use exposure compensation
My camera is antique to digital standards. I shoot with an Olympus e-3, and it's from 2008. 10 MP Four Thirds, and extra noise at higher ISO. I see no point in upgrading to a newer system as I have a wide assortment of lenses for the original Four Thirds. This camera doesn't have an auto mode that I can find, so when I am doing birds I use shutter, and landscapes I use aperture. I rarely use manual mode. When I was researching for an inexpensive full kit to put together, I wish I was a little more patient and went with just one good lens and a more modern camera, but I was just amazed at the condition of all this stuff because they weren't used for a long time. The original Four Thirds was only around for a little bit compared to MFT. I spent about $300 on a 50-200 f2.8-3.5 and another $300 on a 70-300 f3.5-4 I think... Significantly cheaper than buying a new system, but challenging. It still gets great pictures, just have to dial in the settings more often and keep the ISO lower than what you'd expect.
For the last 15 years I shot in aperture priority. Before that, it was P mode. Now I have switched to TAv mode or for some cameras, it would be manual with auto ISO. You can Ap and Shutter without having to worry about lighting! I wished I started way before now.
Hello 👋 Jason let me tell you I love your videos because they are entertaining, informative, interesting, and instructive, you have a particular way to explain how the camera works 😃😃
Say you are shooting video with the a7s3 in low light environments. What would you personally set the max for the iso?
Hello, quick question. I'm exploring my camera settings and I saw metering timer, what number should I use? I'm a beginner at photography and wanna learn all things inside my camera, btw i'm using canon 700D. Thank you
When i shoot video with my family...(vacation, birthday) i take my Sony...put slog3, aperture priority, +0.7 or +1 ev compensate... And the results are Amazing and easy....
I just had a very bad trip in an event photo because of Av mode , Av mode require your camera is high end. Some camera does not have Minimum Shutter Speed function so shutter speed go to low and causes blur photos.
Most important, in Av mode you receive the set up for ambient ligh, not for model. Lighting for model depends on flash lighting not on Av mode.
Great tips.
I’m shooting on a MFT. Should I be using your APSC settings as a baseline?
Super thanks. I really enjoy your channel a LOT. I switched over to Sony cameras this past year and used your channel to gain a lot of knowledge on the Sonys. Your sense of humor resonates with me which adds to the material you present. Keep it up!!!
Super appreciate the donation! Welcome to Sony and my channel! I’m planning to make more of these kinds of videos in 2024 so definitely leave me any feedbacks!
Superb explanation !!!;thank you..................
I use the option to set the lowest shutter speed the camera is allowed to use.
So the camera knows where it can get light from slower shutter and when it needs to start bumping up the ISO.
You are ahead of many youtubers. I like how realistic you are in your videos. I'm in subscriber now.
I use M A S all depend on the scene and location exactly as you have explained.
Thank you!
Thanks... helpful.
It’s helpful thank you
Interesting comments. I have been using Manual mode forever. Primarily landscape where only birds or waves are the subject of motion. What about P mode. Programmed mode? In landscape, the lighting changes radically.
Stupid question just getting into photography.... if my camera says that the max aperture the camera is able to go is f3.5 would it be pointless to buy a lens thats f1.4 or 1.8 since the camera can only go to f3.5?
How does shooting with a variable aperture lens affect this? Thanks!
Good point. Unless you are in studio in controlled environment, where you can safely shoot M - any other setting is a fair game
Damn amazing video 🎉
I am not a pro. I use manual mode with auto-Iso [limit 6400] since years on my old Nikon d800 and I love it
Can you use these with on or off camera flash?
Taught myself how to shoot manual, I generally take landscape shots so it's not an issue for me.
You mentioned Photo, but would you recommend any for Video?
After years of ALWAYS using manual mode I pretty much now just sit in aperture priority 80% and shutter the other 20%.. I just some some great surfing in Tahiti last month all in shutter priority and got a ton of great shots. Manual is now just for down time creative shots that I have a ton of time to fuss around with.
Why is nobody talking in this videos about the "ISO Auto Min. VS" Feature? This is so helpful and makes things so easy.
Aperture priority For portraits and non moving subjects
Shutter priority for fast moving subjects,
Auto ISO or sometimes i will change it manually. It Depends on the lighting.
I use av for day, and manual at night with auto iso capped at 6400 with minimum 125 SS.
How about if you use flash? Which one would you choose then?
Good advice too =)
HI this would work when you are using automatic lens,but not with an full manual lens. interesting video thanks
Unless you're in a studio and NEED to shoot manual for the strobes... you really never would shoot manual... Aperture priority 99% of the time and Shutter priority if you're shooting sports/wildlife
I don’t trust aperture priority to get the shutter speed right, to stop the action for street photography.
I don't know why anybody would set ISO manually, unless you are shooting with flash or some other special cases. The only rational mode is A (or P if you don't care about aperture) with Auto ISO and setting the min shutter speed lets you control the motion blur and camera shake.
80% of the time i'm on M, rest is either A or P. I've realised that often when i'm shooting fast action i'm switching back to manual to not be bothered by constant need for exposure correction. Sound counterintuitive but even with todays technology, light meters are only some scripts that don't know what your next move is.
I use both Aperture And Manual
Auto iso, shutter speed and white balance can cause issues with keeping constancy. It causes edit workflow to be slow.
With the new noise reduction in lightroon or topaz I can set auto iso to 10000 iso. On a aps-c nikon D7200 and get good results.
"A" is what I use except Astro Milky Way BUT one or two times I used "A" for Milky Way when I captured in a lit parking lot while next faceting the dark sky over the ocean. But I also on many occasions have used "AUTO" on my Sony and in the second layer of Intelligent Auto and that works also use a tripod. I also tell others to play with Auto for a month or two like you do with your cell camera like for a portrait at night just put a flash on and the camera works it out. Look you pay for Auto mode so try it!!!