Do YOU understand your HISTOGRAM??
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ม.ค. 2017
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The best tip I ever got is when you're shooting in RAW (which should almost be always), set your photo style to B&W. When you review between shots, you can see just the contrast and exposure value without color giving you a false perspective. Then when you import the RAW file, everything is still full color. This helps a LOT with shooting colorful subjects, especially pure reds. You might review on your camera and think "that looks good", then realize later at home that it's over or under exposed.
+AZREDFERN yep, I suggest this in several vids
Is there an advantage to doing what you described instead of just looking at the RGB histogram where you can see the individual channels as well?
+Matt Granger That's probably where I heard it then ^u^
They don't teach that in any undergraduate class.
+Case The histogram is good for everything he described in the video. But I like the B&W review because you can get a better feel for the contrast when quickly reviewing. Like when I shoot motorsports and only have a few seconds between shots, I like to quickly review, adjust, and try something new. I know the histogram should me more center balanced, but B&W helps me make sure the wheel wells aren't too dark, and the hood isn't too bright. A polarizing filter can bring down hood glare or amplify it, and a fill flash can bring out the wheel wells, along with some interesting blur with a freeze at the end.
+AZREDFERN Still can't really see what difference does it make, but I guess I'll try it, then, maybe it is indeed better. Can't hurt to try something new, after all.
Exceptional work, thanks for this info.
As ever, you are indispensable to the photography community. Clarity, expertise, humanity, realism and an utter lack of pomposity. Thanks!
Good information Matt. I don't think I'd seen that before a bout the difference in the jpeg and raw histogram. A subtle but important difference.
Probably the best nine minutes of basic histogram learning i have had. Cheers Matt
You are the one that's walking me through my photography. Educating, clarifying and explaining everything :) Thank You Matt
Wow, this information about the camera not showing the histogram of the RAW file is really critical, and I didn't know that before!
Aaron Yang yeah. that's why I like shooting with a flatter JPEG profile so I get a better idea of what the raw will look like
***** That's also a good tip. I'll change my settings right away.
Aaron Yang
As long as you don´t use Canon 5D III, 5D II, 6D, 7D, 60D, 50D, 700D, 650D, 600D, 550D, 1100D and Eos M you will not be able to get the raw histogram in camera. I think 70D, 100D and 1200D also are able to show the raw histogram but I am not sure.
Camera companies should have raw histograms years ago built into their cameras. I cannot believe we are still using jpg previewed histos in 2017. I've been calling for it for years.
Excellent advice for new photographers Matt.
Thanks mate. Very helpful videos. Probably the best tutorials I've seen in a long while.
This is the best explanation of the histogram that I have ever come across. Very informative. Thanks Matt.
just had to comment on you Playlist for this very informative video. love it!
This is absolutely AWESOME information and presentation!! Thank you!!
Am new to photography and your tutorials have really made my work stand out. Thank you sir
Just what I had issues with. Thank you for clarifying my concerns regarding your last two tips.
super well explained! Thank you. Ive been shooting for about two years and only used the histogram a few times. Now that i want to get serious with my shooting, i see the importance.
New to photography and therefore watching a lot of video on various subjects.
I came across yours on Histograms and makes total sense as compared to a number of others I’ve viewed.
Subscribed 👍
This is very helpful. Very detailed and finally an explanation about histograms that makes sense. Thanks Matt :)
Very interesting information, thanks for sharing!
Fuji camera's also show the JPG histogram, that's why you can overexpose on it slightly and still be fine to recover those highlights in RAW processing
RED cameras have solved the RAW exposure problem with their histogram display, making it super easy to get perfect RAW exposure. First there are two “goal posts”.
The left goal post bar shows the amount of pixels (up to 25% of the total image) that are underexposed or noisy. So when your left goal post fills to the top, then at least 25% of the RAW image is going to be noisy.
The right goal post shows the amount of pixels (up to 25%) that are overexposed or clipped.
Then there are traffic lights (red, green and blue) that light up to indicate which color channels are overexposed and clipped.
So assuming you don’t want to overexpose anything on the RED, just adjust your iris, shutter or ND until all the traffic lights just turn off. And you’ve also maximized the dynamic range because the brightest part of your scene is just below clipping.
Note that on the RED camera, the actual RGB histogram between the goal posts is affected by metadata settings like ISO and white balance, so don’t rely on it to avoid clipping or noise. Use the traffic lights and goal posts to properly expose RAW on RED.
Also remember that newer RED cameras have 17+ stops of dynamic range, so unless your scene has more dynamic range than can be captured by its sensor your left and right goal posts should never fill up. Every dark and bright part in the scene will be recorded by the sensor.
Just stumbled on to your Chanel. What a clear explanation of a (supposedly) difficult topic. Also impressed by the quality of the responses. Chalk yourself up another subscriber.
Thank you. A lot of great information especially about the RAW histogram.
Super informative video. I know most professionals shot in raw. I shot professionally for 30 years, the last 4 in digital. I exposed my digital images the same way I exposed film and always shot in Jpeg only. Much less time with post, and in the thousands of images, never had an exposure issue because I came from a film background and understood how to expose and understood lighting.
Excellent information...explained very clearly! Thanks.
Best tips ever! Thanks for sharing.
Another good tip that I got when I started taking photo's with a more professional camera, was to look at the scene, determine what's the most important there, determine if its in the highlights or shadows, and make sure you don't over or under expose in the histogram. If you are shooting a bride with white dress, underexposing the dark wall in the background is no big deal, clipping the white of the dress however is. and indeed, with a black cat it would be the other way around.
Also the advice was to not push it all the way to the limits, as the sensor usually resolves less detail towards the outer edges of the histogram.
from all review and tips I saw before, regardless from who, yours review and tips are the most relevant and I able to understand it without blowing my head. thanks a lot for the information.
Fantastic. I've been searching and I've finally found the info and questions I've been trying to find. THANK YOU.
Very helpful reminder, well stated and clear. Really like the suggestion to run tests of the histogram with your camera & lens set up. Helpful to remember to learn the different look of the histogram for realistic as compared to a different desired aesthetic.
Many thanks
Brilliant. Awesome explanation.
Clarified.
Thanks for that Matt, very informatinve regarding the RAW histogram in Lightroom and the camera Histogram...
Thank you Sir. Very insightful!
Excellent tutorial. Spot on.
Great info. Thank you
Love your videos, thank you!
Well done Matt! Very easy to understand.
Thank you Matt, excellent information, very helpful. :)
Excellent, well presented. thx
thank you so much for your explanation. I'm newbie in photography world and some articles suggested me to aiming for the perfect histogram. I'm happy to hear that such thing like a perfect histogram doesn't exist :-)
Dunno if you've mentioned this before, but shooting a bit in B&W will give folks some experience with seeing tonality.
+Omesh Singh yep many times
He has! lol
I love to shoot B&W sometimes. I think it helps me find interesting lighting.
Omesh Singh oh good idea
really great explanation! no other video i've seen on histograms has address the issues about photos not all having the same histogram graph style or aiming for the histogram to be a wavy form. i also thought that doesn't make sense if the photo is naturally darker or lighter due to whats being photographed.
the key here is to get a sense of what you thinknthe histogram should loom like based upon what you're photographing and knowing how to look at the histogram to tell you if you are getting too much light in or not enough.
i didn't know that about the raw images. thanks... just subbed for that!
Amazing video Mat thanks! Very important info.
Wow, this information is priceless, thank you sir!
Very nice. Thank you for sharing.
Fantastic information sir
Very well explained. Thank u !!
Great explanation. Thank you
I found your video on histogram very informative and easy to understand. Thank you
Very good and informative video. Thanks.
Nice light, thanks for sharing
Excellent video, thank you.
Awesome video! learned a lot. subscribed! 😊
Best video about histograms on TH-cam!! Everyone else just repeats the standard make sure you have blacks and whites stuff.
Such great info
You made it nice and simple... Thanks !!
Great explanations with lots of examples! I didn’t know that the histograms in my camera would be for JPEG files only. Learned a lot from you today. Thx
You could also add that adjusting the picture profile (even if you shoot raw) to have a flatter image will in fact produce a back screen histogram that is more in line with the histogram of the raw file. This give me more confidence when i'm shooting.
To Phil Weatherly: most cameras have a way of setting a “style” for your JPEG pictures. You can choose warm or cool, edgy or soft, etc. These transformations change the JPEG histogram, perhaps by a lot. Current cameras have a “feature” that they show you the stylized JPEG histogram even if you are recording just raw images. Bummer, but that’s the way it is. To minimize the discrepancy when you are shooting raw, choose the JPEG style that makes the pictures look like your raw images do when you first import them and before you have adjusted color balance, contrast, sharpness, clarity, vibrancy, etc.
Great vid. I figured out the JPG histogram thing myself and found setting the "flattest" JPG picture profile makes the one displayed on the camera closer to the RAW. In my case with my Fuji X cameras I use "Pro-Neg Standard" with highlights and shadows set to -2 for maximum recovery.
Of course, this can make for an unexciting JPG but the Pro-Neg files actually edit rather nicely if you decide to use the JPG -- at least for the crap that I shoot, lol.
I shot video for 2 years on the Sony a7S. My experience (as well as others I spoke with) was that even when shooting dark scenes, it was better to overexpose a bit (without peaking) - similar to the "expose to the right" strategy. Having that "healthy histogram" represented the fact that that you're spreading out the data into more "buckets" so that there's more information in the shot. This was important because the video files are only 8-bit, and also not RAW, so if you put all of the information into just a couple stops of the dynamic range, there's just not much useful data there to work with. Maybe if it's black on black on black, it doesn't matter, but I found that in the real world, even for dark/low key scenes, my video looked much, much better when I gathered as much data as possible, and adjusted (darker or lighter) later.
I liked that you made that very important point about the need to map what your scene is with what the histogram shows. There is big misconception about histogram. Almost everyone says that all you need is histogram to get perfect picture, which is not true. All you need is sense of what your scene is and how perfect histogram would look like for it and then you must map that imaginary histogram with the one on the camera. All that process is not very occurate because it involves a lot of guessing. In many cases it work just ok, but for the best result one still needs to rely on other tools.
Thanks Matt! This was very informative..
Great explanation thank you
This is the nudge I needed to simply start paying attention to the histogram and to start getting a feel for the relationship between it and the shot I've taken.
Judging by what you've said in this (and the previous video), I will NOT be using the histogram to decide on my exposure. I'll be deciding the exposure myself and then looking at the histogram so I know what to expect in situations where I can't trust my LCD (bright sunny days).
Thanks again for this video Matt. You've become an absolutely invaluable resource when it comes to photography.
Agreed. I dont use it very often -only due to me not knowing what it's for..or how to use it.
Thank you. Just confirmed some of my questions.
I looked on my Ciroflex TLR and couldn't find the histogram. I thought maybe it was on a more modern camera so I looked on the newest camera I have my Minolta X G 9 and it didn't have one either. As a subscriber I really enjoy your videos and learn a lot even if sometimes I don't understand a word you're saying. by the way welcome to the US. 😁
Nice job Matt
@2:30 - I couldn't resist "If it's going to be a Low Key kind of shot." Here's the funny: Loki is the name of Matt's cat! Ha! I love homonyms! They are some of my favorite words.
BTW - thanks for (once again?) explaining/teaching us about the histogram. You are so right: it all depends on the sort of shot you are aiming for Low Key, Mid Key, High Key, etc.
*Thank you for enlightening* me on the on camera Histogram vs the on computer Histogram. What a difference! I didn't know that cameras only show the Histogram of the JPEG file - that kinda sucks - not very accurate for me since I always shoot in RAW.
not sure if you are onto it or not, but that is precisely why I called my (female) cat Loki :)
LOL. I didn't know that. Very cool!
Great knowledge man
This was really helpful thank you :)
when I shoot something with a lot of dynamic range, I put my picture style to neutral, which I have adjusted to have very low constrast. that way, it looks very similar to the raw file I will open at home :)
excellent points about histogram misconceptions. thanks
Awesome info! I didn't know that about the in-camera histogram being based on a jpeg conversion. I'll definitely take that into account when shooting more creatively now. BTW Welcome to the states! I hope you love living in NYC!
Best video out there about this topic, there is a lot of misleading information about it, specially in low light and special situations
Helpful. Thanks.
Very well explained.
Very useful info there. I did not know the histogram was the jpeg one. Thanks Matt
Great stuff....
Great explanation.
yeah. you are right. this is the impormations I want to here... thanks for the video...
Best Histogram Video So Far.
If you use magic lantern for a supported Canon camera, you can get raw histograms if you really need them
congratulations on the video! I also really liked your coat with this camera lol, I would like to know where you bought it? sorry
great information and very understandable
Thank you that was very helpful
Thanks for your advice Matt, very informative. So, how is your NY move going? :D
Well done Matt! Was not aware of the difference between in-camera histogram readings of RAW files versus those in post-production software. This revelation alone was worth watching your video. Thanks!
great info thanks
thank you!!! so helpful
very useful tutorial. Thank you very much and greeting from Sri Lanka
Cool! Thanks for this video.
Good point to keep in mind, thanks!
Thanks Matt great video, if you feel you have blown out your photo either end of the histogram please don't delete them until you have seen them in Lightroom or your photo developing software. You could have some keepers. With SD cards at the lowest prices I have seen in a long time and getting bigger you should have enough room not to have to delete. Hope that little bit helps beginners and enthusiasts.
Thanks, Matt, particularly for the info on in-camera histograms being for JPEGS only. As so many photographers shoot raw+JPEG or raw only, why don't manufacturers include raw histograms? I suppose it you knew you would have told us!
By the way, do you think you could turn the radio off during your next video? There was an annoying background noise in this one.
Great bit of advice. Didn't know that about screen's histogram was representative of a jpeg not RAW. Explains why my RAW histogram is much different in LR. Like a whole stop difference.
Very informative, thank you
Nikon's WRGB histogram display in the DSLR's still image review mode can be used to find blown out hot spots in individual color channels. When you zoom into a review image, the WRGB histograms are dynamically revised to show the color content of the visibly magnified area of the image. To make these JPEG histograms more closely reflect the underlying RGB color channels of the RAW image, I shoot RAW using the Portrait profile and the Cloudy White Balance setting. This produces JPEG's with a fairly flat highlight tone curve at a color temperature near daylight. Each of the four vertical sections of the histogram represents about two-stops of exposure (though the left-most section actually contains all stops below the top six stops).
This is really helpful. Thanks! :D
Thank u that was very informative. I have just started out making foodstyling n foodphotography videos, I would love to hear ur thoughts on it
Great video Matt thanks :)
Good one as usually, thanks mate. :)