Nez0's Bad Shoppe: Yokomo MD 1.0 Constructor's Digest
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ส.ค. 2024
- Tips, infos, tricks and other notes along the journey of the building and completion of a RC car kit brought to you by Nez0 :D In this series of videos I will provide my findings during assembly and inspection of a car kit's parts, fit/finish, difficulty etc to help others build their kits. This will help the first time builders and the seasoned veterans as well as there is always something to learn! This particular car kit is the Yokomo MD 1.0, a new design for RWD RC drifting and the successor to the YD-2 platform. This is the first type of video like this that I have created and I was excited to film it :D Thank you to everyone for watching and commenting on my channel, the support means everything! Enjoy the video!
Steering servo arm hits bracket for slide rack! Bump steer because of weak upper arms.
So glad I know how to modify things😎
MD 2.0 so much better🤘🏻
Love your videos Nezo you rock man 🙌🏻😃
I found the first MD 1.0 version not as good as the MD 1.0 coloured v1.2's and i like my MD 1.0 v1.2 more than the MD 2.0. Also Thank you for watching! :D
I normally hate watching these kinds things, but the way you talk and explain it makes this enjoy able ! Thanks NeZo
Thank you very muchly! Something different for me but I enjoyed filming this so more for sure!
After watching this video last night, I ordered one. I was impressed by the overall design. Thank you for your videos!
Aww yiss great success!
Can't wait for the series!!! Great Job!!!
Thank you v muchly!
So while I am building mine, you pointed out on PG. 11 that some of the holes in the upper arm mount are too large and the bolts are loose until tightened into position. You also noted the importance of the upper arms needing to be floppy. I believe that the holes (on mine are the rear set of holes, not random, the front set of holes are the correct screw diameter) are larger in the rear to give the builder to find the optimum placement of the ball studs to achieve maximum flop in the upper arms.
So far several people noticed the same over diameter holes on their parts while a couple of others did not experience this. I had binding at first but once you line up the ball studs and get the fitment correct the arms are nice and fluid in movement :D
Nice review ;)
Thank you very much!!!
I’ve noticed on the revised manual the front upper arm length is 19.5 mm between the ball end and the arm holder !!! Think I’ll try the 18mm as recommended in the first manual , (22.29) front assembly section
Yiss, it seems there have been addendums to the addendums. I recently got a purple MD 1.0 and I have an addendum booklet of like 6 pages and then a whole separate single sheet of addendums that was placed on top of all the parts and was the first thing I seen't when unboxing as noted in my video. Did you get a booklet and a sheet or just a sheet? Curious :) Hope your build went ok!
@@BadShoppe I did not get any addendum sheets , Just The Regular manual and screw sheet / Oh and the ticket to the Yokomo Track :) The provided manual has some strange specs for the steering and upper arm lengths ,, 19.5 mm instead of 18mm Shown in the Yokomo MD 1.0 Manual on the website ,, Oh BTW , Thanks for mentioning the clearance issue in the video , After running the car the diff cup protectors just bedded in and didn't make any contact with the transmission case , The clearance as You mentioned is SUPER FINE , Thanks for the tip on the diff oil also , Mine leaked a little too , just under filled and used the black grease on the gasket second time round and its perfect .
OH yiss great success! I think you found my Purple MD 1.0 videos now :) good news on the black grease on the diff seal, will be doing that from now on.
That was super helpful. Didn’t even realize there was an addendum sheet, gotta check my box. Also the tip for the upper arm alignment, stoked on that… what is your gripe with the 200/300 shock oil? I’ve read a lot of people use 100 for polished concrete. You recommend going with 100 or just build to box 🤙
Some the other 2022 releases from Yokomo included 50wt oil instead of the standard 200/300wt and after 6+ years of 200/300wt oils i thought 50wt would become the new standard but i guess not lol :D If you want to get a sense of the MD 1.0 in out of box mode then use kit oils but if you use 100wt or 50wt the chassis will shift weight a lot more easier on polished concrete. Most of the machines at our local track are running 50wt setups now.
@@BadShoppe Thanks, I probably should have started straight kit specs, but I already installed a 4 gear and have aluminum hubs/knuckles so maybe I’ll just start with 100wt too. I checked and my kit doesn’t include the addendum. One bag has a extra nut stapled to it. I’ve only built the rear assembly so far so hopefully the front mount is fixed but if not no biggie
The part at 7.24 where you have to align the two diff holders into the top right position , Im having the same issue , but my universal shaft protectors are hitting the chassis , clearance is so tight its clicking off the chassis , ever so slightly , Any ideas Nez0 ?
UPDATE once the arms are laying flat and setup and the car is running the Ball Cup Protectors seem to align just right and almost wear in and they stop making contact , The tolerance is super tight , Just in case anyone finds this issue. Mine were making the tiniest clicking noise when the edge of the white shaft protector met the transmission case , the arms were at full sag at this point. even after moving the arms up and down the clicking remained , But once the car was run in for a few laps there was no clicking and there's a visible gap between the white plastic and the transmission casing . Just tight engineering .
There are two ways to install the diff holders, those parts position the diff either more front side or rear side of the transmission gears. For 3 gear transmission I believe the diff should be positioned so that it is positioned towards the front of the transmission, not the backside. The universal drifveshaft protectors should not hit the chassis then, the clearance will still be super fine but they shouldn't touch. Hopefully yours is working good now :)
Wait...which MD 1.0 version did you get...the 1st batch black edition or the 2nd batch coloured edition?
I know its a pretty short chassis i think my bodies a 455mm long with magnet body posts do you think it could work or is this just to short to accomodate? If not i guess its the sx 3 or zx for me
hmmm well the body post geometry is the same as previous Yokomo chassis however the rear body posts are the same as the front and because there is no rear shock tower areas to install magnet mounts to, some aftermarket parts have emerged to give more options for rear body mounting. The Pandora S13 I chose to mount on my MD 1.0 hangs over the rear chassis a lot but I am using the plastic body posts.
Which Pinion did you get or use?
I believe I ended up using a Yokomo 20 tooth 48 pitch pinion gear. I will verify.
Does the gearbox work with yd2
Gearbox design is different, but the gears are similar/the same.
Can ask for the turnbuckle sizes? Thank you
sure, do you want to know which turnbuckle sized parts are used or the measurements of the assembled turnbuckles with ball cups installed?
It already looks like the front wheels have a more even turn radius than the YD-2, or at least comparing to mine.
Seems to be roughly similar but possibly after tuning it could be more. The factory steering stoppers are still installed currently
What I mean is that the wheel leading into the turn always makes the 90° rotation, the opposite wheel does not quite make 90° and gets dragged through the turn, at least in my ZX. In seeing this video, it looks like Yokomo improved the steering geometry and the non-leading wheel gets closer to 90°. I hope I make sense.
@@INS0C its not improved geometry, its just different. sometimes having the trailing wheel too parallel to the leading will make the car crab walk
It's ok, totally parallel steering is not ideal. The lead wheel should always get the maximum angle it can while the chasing wheel gets most but not all of the angle. For RWD drifting i found positive Ackerman setting to be good, deciding on how much depends on the chassis and tuner's preference. The MD 1.0 seems to have more refined geometry out of the box vs most YD-2's
@@BadShoppe Thanks for the clear explanation!
This kit was kind of a nightmare to put together and tune. For a $700 kit, I should not have to cut, trim, file, or modify any part or parts at all. There are two major steps in this build, where if you do not do the factory recommended modifications, you'll end up having to tear apart the chassis and make those mods anyway or else you will not have proper steering sweep and absolutely no droop in the rear suspension.
Tuning this kit is an absolute pain in the ass. The lack of shock positions is ridiculous. However modular or easily accessible and quick adjustments can be made that Yokomo claims this to be, it is far from that. To make simple adjustments, on a previous generation of Yokomo chassis's that would take mere seconds or minutes, require you to almost dismantle entire parts of the car screw by screw. This is even more frustrating when there are spacers, nuts, ball ends, and an endless amount of screws in every aspect of how this jigsaw puzzle goes.
Strange as I don't remember trimming or filing parts down. A plastic part possibly but nothing carbon or aluminum. I followed the instructions and my steering geometry and slide rack went together just fine. My rear suspension also worked just fine from the box. There are tuning limitations i do agree seem a beat weak on a super expensive car. The only major thing is if you've never worked on a racing rc car then this design will be a bit of a pain to work with as this chassis has racing car DNA infused into it. I both like and dislike that. I'm not sure what other tuning or parts upgrade plans Yokomo has for this platform but I am waiting to see just like everyone else.