Former glass worker here, go find yourself a glass supplier, you are in Cali, there are plenty of workers there. Youll be able to find much longer lengths and colors as well, just be sure to have plenty of ventilation as these use heavy metals for colors. Items you need: glass saw, bucket with water to throw hot scraps in, blow tube. Second edit: STOP cooling your hot glass, hot glass need to cool as slow as possible to retain strength. Third edit: didymium glasses, save your eyes.
Or just get the glass worker to make the pieces you need. They would bang them out in no time flat for you. That way you don't waste materials, time and risk burning yourself or your shop up. (And if doing glass blowing you have to really know what your doing as to not inhale any of the super heated air... that would be bad... very bad). I also like the idea of using colored glass tubes as you wouldn't need to have dies in your coolant fluid. You could also have a reservoir made of the same colored glass.
@@hammer9856 This!!! I used to draw up the patterns for neon signs. You really need a much wider flame for doing clean consistent bends. That said. i came up with a set of 3d printed tubes and bends that I use to plan out the part, then translate those plastic lego style tubes to paper patterns. then bend the tubes from that pattern. added bonus is you usually can pull off crazy complex parts in your first attempt. and you are left with a set of documents to remake tubes from should you need it. Still do all my builds with petg tube, but the logical next step is I take the patterns to the glass shop....
I have total confidence that you could make it work but I'd really love to see you do a collab with an actual glass blower. Having the runs be intricate and artistic in a way that only a pro could do would really make for a stand out piece. It could be a learning experience for you and the result would be an absolute one off crazy loop.
I'm fairly sure Jay could do it given enough practice, you just saw his SECOND bend attempt. I dare say Jay could manage a build with multiple bends so you don't have to waste money on a ton of (very well made and quality but very overpriced) fittings and adaptors and such!
Very happy that you mentioned safety concerns of glass dust! SO many videos ignore this. Not talking trash, just some advice: mainly, get yourself some didymium safety glasses to protect your eyes from the sodium flare you mentioned (the bright red that comes off the glass once hot). You don't want to expedite the cooling of glass after heating. Ideally, you use a kiln to allow it to cool over the course of several hours. A tool to help - nothing really, since MAPP + air is working, but attaching your torch to your bench and rotating the glass by hand can help. A drawing of the angle you want can help, esp if rotating by hand, then you can move the glass to the drawing to make sure your angle is correct. Neonworking torch if you want to go all out.
I’d certainly love to see a glass tube build. What might be cool is one that really went heavy on the clarity and shine of glass, pairing the tubing up with a case with lots of clear glass elements, adding lighting so that the final effect produces lots of sparkle. A crystal build.
Unless they are using acetylene and/or going for longer periods of time than what is shown here, the level of exposure to sodium burn isn't goingto be a big deal. There was barely any sodium burn in what was shown in the video, quite frankly.
@@gravdigr27 Most garage/mechanic workers use Oxy-Acetylene for cutting super thick metals. Id imagine this would be massive overkill for small glass projects... NO need to be blowing holes in the side of 6 inch thick carbon steel in a glass shop.
@@crisnmaryfam7344 I'm aware of this. I've had a good bit of experience with cutting torches as well as stick and mig welding. My point was most glass workers use propane. I had access in my shop to acetylene and still used a 20lb cooking grill propane tank for glass working or when cutting thinner mild steel that didnt require the extra heat of acetylene. The acetylene and propane tanks use the same size left handed threads on their valves so the regulators are interchangeable. Even if you have acetylene it is still more economical to just snag the propane tank off the grill for glass working.
Jay: "Wear a mask when clean breaking glass so glass dust doesn't get into your lungs" Also Jay: *Takes mask off when using extremely fine sandpaper on glass creating even finer dust and smoke* *Logic not found*
Former glassblower here (lampwork/art glass running oxy/propane borosilicate). I wouldn't bother with the drill. You can rotate it in your hands at a speed appropriate to prevent slumping and once you get temperature, you can make a better bend using both your hands. The heat doesn't travel far up the glass but you need to know where the glass is hot. For scoring glass, a tungsten carbide blade is best imo. Hold it at an angle against the glass with the cutter in your hand and finger over the tube holding it against the blade, and spin the tube against the blade to get the ideal score. I never considered water-cooled glass rigs but it would be interesting to try if I ever got my studio set up again. A lot of cool techniques could be incorperated.
nah the bluer it gets the warm it gets and when it hitted the glass it went orange, so the gas was 7000c and when it hitted the glass it went down to 3000c
There's some good suggestions here already, so I'll just add that you should watch some videos on how neon signs are made. It's basically the exact craft you'd need to learn to do well with a glass tube cooling loop.
I actually think you're probably the best techtuber at creating interesting content during a lul. I would be interested to watch a series on glass tube bending build.
There are inserts to put into the glass tubes that maintain the ID for a consistent pressure and flow. Using those inserts, a torch, a wet saw like used in glass tile work, and fine grit sand paper you can do really awesome stuff with glass. I would also say to get a tube holding jig that rides on a saw sled to insure that as the glass is feed into the saw it stays perfectly straight would be a huge help, but after enough practice you can also do it without that. Beyond that it is just experience more than anything else.
If he's going to do it on the cheap for more DIY instructive purposes, I've cut glass tube with a diamond wheel on a Dremel tool. Plenty of cheaper tile saws out there though.
@@scottschmidt9292 That was exactly what he was doing in this video though, DIY tutorial on glass tubing cutting and bending. Did I miss understand what you are saying in your comment, or did you make a mistake and not finish the first sentence? IDK honestly...
I got excited bout this idea and decided to look into it. The silicone-based inserts that are sold for this very purpose start to burn at 450°C. Glass only starts to become malleable around 600°C. Is this going to be a whump-whump or did you have a different kind of insert in mind?
@@kaisergrendel I think the inserts are for after your done making the tubes. They prevent having to directly use glass in your fittings so you don't have to guess with your torque and risk breaking glass or leaks.
Soda-lime glass is your common glass used for plate glass windows, drinking glasses and vases. Boro-silicate glass is very resistant to thermal shock. It is used for baking dishes, laboratory glassware and tempered glass.
Hi, if your glass tube is a little to long, you can grind it with a diamond cutting wheel for the dremel, but be careful with the glass dust. You can deburr the tubes with the cutting wheel as well. Edit: I used the clamp tool from your earlier videos and it worked great, no spirals on the tubes. The clamp tool, the diamond cutting wheel for small length corrections and deburring and some polishing paste to make the ends even smoother were the tools I used for my build. I bought my 90° bends from a local glass manufacturer for around 6€ each.
I would love to see you do a glass tubing build with your new found glass blowing skills. As for tools I dont really have anything to suggest other than take a look at graphite glass blowing tools to see if any of them would help you.
I used to work in a glass shop and I have a few tips for you. 1: Cooling the glass tempers it. This makes the glass tough but very dangerous under the right conditions. The slower the glass cools the easier it is to score and break it later. Cool it too fast and the glass will explode under tension. 2:Do not use rubber or synthetic fiber gloves when working with hot/melting glass. The heat alone can easily cause them to melt to your skin. I personally rarely used gloves at all. Glass suppliers sell gloves that would permit touching glass almost immediately after bending. 3: A wet tile cutter can have a diamond blade installed to cut glass. 4: Fire polishing after cutting needs to be done with a much hotter torch. No sanding is needed. If you have the time wet sanding works instead of using a torch. Be aware that if you sand water must be used or silica in the air can cause serious health problems. 5: Gravity is your friend. When the glass starts to bend simply let it slowly fall into the position it needs to be. Using a torch with a larger and broader flame could help.
For future reference you could always just do what we in the glass industry call flame fixing the edge of cut glass. Look into it because it's where we use a Mapp, propane or oxy/propane flame to heat the glass cut till it just starts to round the edges with no need for a file or sanding cause if you get even a slight rough edge it will over time will allow water and cooling mix to degrade your o-rings.
A glass build would be awesome from start to finish. Really would like to see the way you map out the path and bends using plastic first and then cut the glass to both water cool the CPU and the GPX card. I would assume you would have to essentially build it twice with the glass being the final product. I would totally do that for my next build in a couple of years (when the gpu stock is normalized...)
Glass build would be good, going through the considerations of fittings, diameters, fluids and dyes. Also, basic needs and nice to haves. There's enough differences to make it interesting.
This reminds me of when I took up a chemistry class in college. We were required to buy these thin glass tubes for our lab use. We'd hand them over to the lab technician, and it was mesmerizing to watch them cut, melt, and essentially turn those glass tubes into stirrers, droppers, and scoops of various lengths/sizes that we get to keep after the term. All this done on a Bunsen burner.
My buddy had a kinkajou glass cutter. It had the similar walking issue you talked about at the beginning but, you would pour boiling after on the score and then cold water to fracture at that point. I bring that up because if you have a good score on a piece you want to remove like half an inch on, it should work. If you put an o-ring on each side, that will also focus the water to stay concentrated on the score. Just a thought, cool video
borosilicate is essentially Pyrex, and its resiliency against breaking and temps, compared to normal glass, is accomplished by allowing the molecules to anneal by cooling VERY slowly. this is a long way of saying, maybe don't use the air to cool it, if you want to retain greater strength against cracks and breaks. 😊
Kinda of like a steel weld. If you cool steel too quickly, you cause the crystal structure to be coarse and large, making it brittle. Especially in the heat affected zone on either side of the weld bead.
.... You are nearly right. The resilience comes from the addition of Boron, not from cooling it down slowely. And while Pyrex is a common brand-name associated with that, it is neither the inventor, nor main producer - and a lot of Pyrex is NOT borosilicate but normal soda-lime glas.
The air cooling isn't the main issue its the using of a blower to cool it and not using a lower powered flame to keep it warm for a few minutes after bending. with how thin glass tubing is its not going to impart as much stress as a thicker glass so you can aneal it much faster but you do want to anneal it.
Both are correct - the laboratory equipment IS called a beaker. It's a glass container with an open top, and usually has a spout or "beak" for pouring. AND, he's Doctor Bunsen Honeydew's assistant on the Muppets.
I've put together several glass tube builds. I've found that just sticking to 90 degree bends using fittings to be the best DIY method. If you want bends in the tubes, stick to PETG.
I don't think I'd ever do this but I definitely enjoyed watching someone else do it (even if it was with a drill taped to a table 🤣). Would love to see a glass build
Diamond cut off wheel on a Dremel will save you tons of time, that's what I do. You can get a knock off Dremel for 20 bucks and the cut off wheel for a little less. All in all less than 40 bucks and no need for a torch or sanding, I round the edges with the cut off wheel.
@@Eddiebo619 not exactly germans and german language has nothing to do with greek, it's from Old High German behhari (compare Dutch beker), from Late Latin bīcārium ("wine vat, jug")
I've also seen what looks like a rope inserted (presumably fiberglass or some other heat resistant material). I searched around for it, but failed to find it.
Former sign guy here, put a cork in one end of the glass and rubber tube with blow piece on other end and as you bend glass keep constant pressure. OR find a neon sigh shop and have the neon tube bender bend your tubes for you. As somebody else said neon tubing comes in many colors and diameters (and is most likely cheaper) available from sign supply shop.
12:30 actually capping them off would cause the tube to expand under the heat. Heat causes air molecules to spread out. Therefore youll have some expansion in the tube if not super careful.
@@RngmonsterX but why? Epeen? Id much rather use frosted acrylic that looks 10x better and costs 10x less... unless theres something special you can do with glass tube builds you cannot with acrylic... that im oblivious to. I mean... maybe if you had a professional artesian glass blower to help you make some baller ass reservoir or something.
@@crisnmaryfam7344 why do i buy motherboards for 600-700€ ? Why do i buy RAM for 1000€? Because why not? I'm an enthusiast and i love playing around with hardware.
Just think of what may happen when the system takes a hard bump... and that should be enough to discourage you. We're talking catastrophic failure and not just a few drops of coolant, but potentially water everywhere. Definitely not worth the hassle.
if you're going to be doing a lot of glass tube builds. In the stained glass world, there is a diamond ring saw to cut glass. The blade of the saw is a 360 degree cutting direction. This would be a good way to precisely trim your glass tubing and giving a more finished edge after the cut. Google "stained glass ring saw" Zephyr makes a good product.
Glass blower here: I’d recommend a blow hose firstly to get the internal pressure up in order to not have to worry about it collapsing. Also a small glass blowing torch from GTT is like $300-500 bucks used/new and would be worth it. Also Jay, the orange flame is the sodium in the glass burning off. Highly recommend didymium glasses to protect your eyes.
"I am aware of how bad this is" camera zooms out to show Jay holding glass in a drill and a propped up torch with no safety wearing sandals with shorts.... yeah pretty bad lmao
The sandals and shorts actually are not the main issues in this video. Proper body positioning can cancel out almost all the dangers those create. The fact that he's relying on tape to hold the drill that is connected to a tube that is over a carpet is a much greater danger. The gloves that will melt into his hands aren't great either.
Fun fact, skin sticks to hot glass. I knew a glass blower with an amazing scar when a 2" marble he was working popped off the punty (glass handle) landed on his thigh and rolled down his leg melting skin and collecting it like a snowball rolling down a hill. Most glassworkers work standing up for that reason.
@@duser it didnt leave a hole. It rolled down his leg and made a track down his thigh as it picked up skin on the way. Hot glass is dangerous. I cringed so many time watching this I made a comment begging him to bring in someone experienced with glass working. Additionally without a kiln to anneal the glass every bend will cool with stress in it and eventually crack and/or break which would be bad. There is a LOT more to working with glass than acrylic. I did it for about 8 years.
its not quite the sodium burning (as that would imply its reacting with the oxygen) but rather there is enough heat to push up the sodium electrons into a higher energy level, when said electron falls backdown to a lower energy level it emits the same amount of energy, but as light. The amount of energy correlates with distance of the gap between the higher and lower states, and that is why different metals emit different colors ight when heated as the differnce between the energy levels are different.
do a build please and im always down to see more of these comments about advice, always trust advice of someone whos done a trade for a living, experience speaks volumes!
To round the edges after scoring an snapping the glass tubing you can proceed to just heat it until the glass gets soft, then it will round the edges by itself without the need of sandpaper, etc.. Borosilicate glass has a really really low heattransfercoefficient, so you dont need to worry about the whole pipe heating up when your only applying heat to edges. In university we use a very powerful hydrogen/oxygen burner for preparing tubes and ampules and you can touch the glass even a few centimeters away from the spot you're applying heat to even, even without gloves you won't notice the extreme heat.
Something tells me that putting a hight voltage, high frequency source (what you need to lit a neon tube) inside a PC might not go well with all the fiddly electronic parts.
@@agarceran If Linus can electrocute himself for science, it's at least worth the attempt... Y'know... Science. At least I won't be trying it at home lmao
We did something similar in my high school chemistry class, we bent and broke glass stir rods over a Bunsen burner. I don’t know if your outcome would be different since you’re bending hollow rods, but we bent the rods over a metal water faucet to get a perfect unwrinkled inner radius
Yes, Borosilicate is primo test tube material. That was the first thing that came to mind when you announced the material. Also Please do a glass tubing build. I would love to watch how you do the measurements and everything for the tubing etc. Could be like a mini series even.
YES! This is the one thing that would make me want to water cool a setup and do it properly! Glass is one thing I'd be really interested in working with and is much cleaner than acrylic. Awesome video and would love to see more!
@@eletricsaberman8916 I think it would be since the longer the lever the more leverage you get. If you do it right it would work as though the tube was longer to begin with
Today I watched Jay become an amateur glassblower. Woo! I would love to see a full glass tubing build, just to see how nice it looks when the water is filled and running. I bet it would look gorgeous with full lighting.
Try sliding a bit of PVC over the glass to "extend" the glass tube when scoring and breaking small sections off. You can even use a bit of tape to make the PVC friction fit to the glass.
I'm pretty sure you can make a tool that stops bending at 90 deg angles. You really don't have to go through so much pain. Its like choosing to walk across a desert for 3 days instead of driving for 3 hours just because you want to be a purist.
Tip: if you want to break a little piece off like at 15:52, get a dowel that is the exact diameter as the inside diameter of the glass and use that as leverage
YESSSSSS JAY!!! Glass tubing build and please apply your creative genius to it. I miss your awesome crafting skills in pc builds. Ex: rdr2 build, destiny build, star wars build, etc
Because of your first glass tubing video I decided to do my first custom loop in glass. It turned out great but a lot of fittings. So YES. I would love to see another glass tubing video!!!!!!
Glass is awesome. I made my FIRST watercooling build with glass. I used PETG as templates, same as Jay, and used butloads of fittings and some prebent glass pieces. I messed up one prebent piece and had to swap it for straights with fittigns and didn't get the lenght perfectly right, so it's crooked, but everything is sealed just fine :P I've been using this build for past two years, and the best thing about glass is that it does not cloud, it does not introduce anything to your coolant, so my pastel white fluid is holding perfeclty fine (my res is glass, the only part non glass is either metal, orings or acrylic cover for GPU block).
I was talking to a glass blower recently about interest in getting into the business. He recommended using 104 coe glass that you can get at like home depoe and use regular torch. Borosilicate is a relatively strong glass and apparently using something like that 104 coe glass it's easier to play around with especially as a beginner. It's a way to get used to the consistency and the way that glass works when it's hot. At least it seems like your MAP torch works well enough to heat boro though.
You need to make a loop with Quartz Glass Tubes! Blistering temperatures won’t melt these quartz tubes, and rapid temperature shifts won’t cause them to crack. Even tougher than borosilicate, they can be used in furnaces and ovens heated up to 2000° F. These highly pure tubes are often used in laboratories because they won’t leach impurities into samples or contaminate chemical reactions. Quartz tubes are optically clear and have excellent UV transmission, making them ideal for UV purification systems.
For trimming glass tubes use your dremel with diamond disc and for smoothing edges use your gas gun (torh) and apply heat on the edges until they start melting and you ready to go Good luck with next glass project
Two points: 1) You could have explained a bit about different types of glass, specifically borosilicate is much more resistant against sudden temperature changes than "common" glass, if the tube was common glass, your heating and cooling methods would have resulted in it cracking into pieces; and 2) If you want to cut the glass instead of the slightly dangerous scoring and forcing method, the diamond blades for e.g. dremel-type small drills are not that expensive. This goes also for drill bits that you can use to smooth out the sharp corners of glass, or even bevel glass parts.
When I make a short cut on glass, I put a wooden dowel in the short end to apply pressure from the center. Not a science or physics major by any means but I think the dowel evens out the pressure across the whole inside diameter of the tube. Hence making a cleaner break.
Former glass worker here, go find yourself a glass supplier, you are in Cali, there are plenty of workers there. Youll be able to find much longer lengths and colors as well, just be sure to have plenty of ventilation as these use heavy metals for colors. Items you need: glass saw, bucket with water to throw hot scraps in, blow tube.
Second edit: STOP cooling your hot glass, hot glass need to cool as slow as possible to retain strength.
Third edit: didymium glasses, save your eyes.
This looks like the tip for you
Or just get the glass worker to make the pieces you need. They would bang them out in no time flat for you. That way you don't waste materials, time and risk burning yourself or your shop up. (And if doing glass blowing you have to really know what your doing as to not inhale any of the super heated air... that would be bad... very bad). I also like the idea of using colored glass tubes as you wouldn't need to have dies in your coolant fluid. You could also have a reservoir made of the same colored glass.
@@hammer9856 This!!! I used to draw up the patterns for neon signs. You really need a much wider flame for doing clean consistent bends.
That said. i came up with a set of 3d printed tubes and bends that I use to plan out the part, then translate those plastic lego style tubes to paper patterns. then bend the tubes from that pattern. added bonus is you usually can pull off crazy complex parts in your first attempt. and you are left with a set of documents to remake tubes from should you need it. Still do all my builds with petg tube, but the logical next step is I take the patterns to the glass shop....
I like the idea of a colored glass build, maybe with a fancy logo made out of glass tube
@@danc4046 But why color the glass and not the coolingliquid. It seems smarter to just use clear glass.
I have total confidence that you could make it work but I'd really love to see you do a collab with an actual glass blower. Having the runs be intricate and artistic in a way that only a pro could do would really make for a stand out piece. It could be a learning experience for you and the result would be an absolute one off crazy loop.
That's a wonderful idea you got there.
Now I want it to be real.
I'm available. Years of experience in production AND teaching lampworking and furnace work of borosilicate, soda-lime, AND quartz.
yea a water cooled build with glass tubing that would be amazing
I 100% support this idea for some gorgeous twisted runs
I'm fairly sure Jay could do it given enough practice, you just saw his SECOND bend attempt. I dare say Jay could manage a build with multiple bends so you don't have to waste money on a ton of (very well made and quality but very overpriced) fittings and adaptors and such!
That second bend turned out pretty swell tbh. Well done. Yes to the next glass build. Crystal Palace.
Make a build with glass tubing and bend the glass tubes to form the letters "J", "2" and "C"
2 is a number sir
Very happy that you mentioned safety concerns of glass dust! SO many videos ignore this. Not talking trash, just some advice: mainly, get yourself some didymium safety glasses to protect your eyes from the sodium flare you mentioned (the bright red that comes off the glass once hot). You don't want to expedite the cooling of glass after heating. Ideally, you use a kiln to allow it to cool over the course of several hours. A tool to help - nothing really, since MAPP + air is working, but attaching your torch to your bench and rotating the glass by hand can help. A drawing of the angle you want can help, esp if rotating by hand, then you can move the glass to the drawing to make sure your angle is correct. Neonworking torch if you want to go all out.
I’d certainly love to see a glass tube build. What might be cool is one that really went heavy on the clarity and shine of glass, pairing the tubing up with a case with lots of clear glass elements, adding lighting so that the final effect produces lots of sparkle. A crystal build.
Hell yeah! That would be awesome to see.
this sounds like a job for that o11 mini snow edition lian li gave him some 6 months ago....
look up UV glass! :)
For those that attempt to play with glass, please wear the proper protective eyewear so you don't ruin your eyesight.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Didymium
Unless they are using acetylene and/or going for longer periods of time than what is shown here, the level of exposure to sodium burn isn't goingto be a big deal. There was barely any sodium burn in what was shown in the video, quite frankly.
Most glass workers use propane/oxygen. Acetetyle is expensive and overkill.
@@gravdigr27 Most garage/mechanic workers use Oxy-Acetylene for cutting super thick metals. Id imagine this would be massive overkill for small glass projects... NO need to be blowing holes in the side of 6 inch thick carbon steel in a glass shop.
@@crisnmaryfam7344 I'm aware of this. I've had a good bit of experience with cutting torches as well as stick and mig welding. My point was most glass workers use propane. I had access in my shop to acetylene and still used a 20lb cooking grill propane tank for glass working or when cutting thinner mild steel that didnt require the extra heat of acetylene. The acetylene and propane tanks use the same size left handed threads on their valves so the regulators are interchangeable. Even if you have acetylene it is still more economical to just snag the propane tank off the grill for glass working.
Bros working in style with Oakleys on!
Jay: "Wear a mask when clean breaking glass so glass dust doesn't get into your lungs"
Also Jay: *Takes mask off when using extremely fine sandpaper on glass creating even finer dust and smoke*
*Logic not found*
Do as he says, not as he does 🤣
When heated it acts as a fluid...?🤷♂️
😂😂
@@It-b-Blair When sandpapered at high speeds dust acts as dust..
breaks glass immediately takes of the mask bends over and puts his face right into the dust XD 4:55
Former glassblower here (lampwork/art glass running oxy/propane borosilicate). I wouldn't bother with the drill. You can rotate it in your hands at a speed appropriate to prevent slumping and once you get temperature, you can make a better bend using both your hands. The heat doesn't travel far up the glass but you need to know where the glass is hot. For scoring glass, a tungsten carbide blade is best imo. Hold it at an angle against the glass with the cutter in your hand and finger over the tube holding it against the blade, and spin the tube against the blade to get the ideal score.
I never considered water-cooled glass rigs but it would be interesting to try if I ever got my studio set up again. A lot of cool techniques could be incorperated.
Please do another glass tubing build with as little fittings and as much exposed tubing as possible, love this content too btw 👍
"I'll be dipped" Derrek "Vice Grip Gurage"
Makes a guy rather happy reading this.
A guy would of never guessed to be here
BRING THE THUNDER!
@@musikomax first you got to mess around with the lightning whirler.
Moses sandals !
Help me understand !
“When the flame turns orange that’s how you know your getting good temps with the glass” Jay smokes dabs confirmed.
I was thinking the same thing LOL
Lmao
JayzTwoPuffs
nah the bluer it gets the warm it gets and when it hitted the glass it went orange, so the gas was 7000c and when it hitted the glass it went down to 3000c
@@dragontos 7000°C? lol nope
There's some good suggestions here already, so I'll just add that you should watch some videos on how neon signs are made. It's basically the exact craft you'd need to learn to do well with a glass tube cooling loop.
For shorter snaps, try holding the short end with a tube that fits just around it! if it's a snug fit, it should work!
I actually think you're probably the best techtuber at creating interesting content during a lul. I would be interested to watch a series on glass tube bending build.
There are inserts to put into the glass tubes that maintain the ID for a consistent pressure and flow. Using those inserts, a torch, a wet saw like used in glass tile work, and fine grit sand paper you can do really awesome stuff with glass. I would also say to get a tube holding jig that rides on a saw sled to insure that as the glass is feed into the saw it stays perfectly straight would be a huge help, but after enough practice you can also do it without that. Beyond that it is just experience more than anything else.
If he's going to do it on the cheap for more DIY instructive purposes, I've cut glass tube with a diamond wheel on a Dremel tool. Plenty of cheaper tile saws out there though.
@@scottschmidt9292 That was exactly what he was doing in this video though, DIY tutorial on glass tubing cutting and bending. Did I miss understand what you are saying in your comment, or did you make a mistake and not finish the first sentence? IDK honestly...
I got excited bout this idea and decided to look into it. The silicone-based inserts that are sold for this very purpose start to burn at 450°C. Glass only starts to become malleable around 600°C. Is this going to be a whump-whump or did you have a different kind of insert in mind?
@@kaisergrendel I think the inserts are for after your done making the tubes. They prevent having to directly use glass in your fittings so you don't have to guess with your torque and risk breaking glass or leaks.
@@aaronb9630 I see. How would one finesse the edges of the glass that way? Do the fittings have a separate receptacle for glass only?
Dude, now I want to make my first custom loop glass, because I have no perception of my own limits and you re a bad influence.
Describes me perfectly as well. Probably should stick with aircooling... But performance, and wow shiny tubes with nice colorful liquid.
You can do it!
Yes, watch a few more glass blowing/bending videos, and then... GO FOR IT!
We need a glass build
Soda-lime glass is your common glass used for plate glass windows, drinking glasses and vases. Boro-silicate glass is very resistant to thermal shock. It is used for baking dishes, laboratory glassware and tempered glass.
Hi, if your glass tube is a little to long, you can grind it with a diamond cutting wheel for the dremel, but be careful with the glass dust. You can deburr the tubes with the cutting wheel as well.
Edit: I used the clamp tool from your earlier videos and it worked great, no spirals on the tubes. The clamp tool, the diamond cutting wheel for small length corrections and deburring and some polishing paste to make the ends even smoother were the tools I used for my build. I bought my 90° bends from a local glass manufacturer for around 6€ each.
"Hey, let's heat the bottle!"
💡
Idea: Do a build with bent glass tubing and use a bottle for the reservoir.
get this man to top comment
RISE YOU MAD MAN (with a fucking great idear)
Prior art: th-cam.com/video/IYTJfLyo_vE/w-d-xo.html
"Do as I say, not as I do". Oh wait, that was the other guy.
I like the idea with a bottle as a reservoir. Why dont make it a distillery build, with amber coloured glass, coils of glass etc
I would love to see you do a glass tubing build with your new found glass blowing skills. As for tools I dont really have anything to suggest other than take a look at graphite glass blowing tools to see if any of them would help you.
Head to home depot and get a wet tile saw to cut the glass. A cheap one will work just fine and make your life so much easier. It's worth it.
Was thinking the dremel diamond cutoff disc would probably work well.
Tried that, nope! Not even the gold coloured disk is fine enough. Order a disk made for wet cutting glass, and dremel extension.
I used to work in a glass shop and I have a few tips for you.
1: Cooling the glass tempers it. This makes the glass tough but very dangerous under the right conditions. The slower the glass cools the easier it is to score and break it later. Cool it too fast and the glass will explode under tension.
2:Do not use rubber or synthetic fiber gloves when working with hot/melting glass. The heat alone can easily cause them to melt to your skin. I personally rarely used gloves at all. Glass suppliers sell gloves that would permit touching glass almost immediately after bending.
3: A wet tile cutter can have a diamond blade installed to cut glass.
4: Fire polishing after cutting needs to be done with a much hotter torch. No sanding is needed. If you have the time wet sanding works instead of using a torch. Be aware that if you sand water must be used or silica in the air can cause serious health problems.
5: Gravity is your friend. When the glass starts to bend simply let it slowly fall into the position it needs to be. Using a torch with a larger and broader flame could help.
For future reference you could always just do what we in the glass industry call flame fixing the edge of cut glass. Look into it because it's where we use a Mapp, propane or oxy/propane flame to heat the glass cut till it just starts to round the edges with no need for a file or sanding cause if you get even a slight rough edge it will over time will allow water and cooling mix to degrade your o-rings.
Jay: "use a mask against Glass dust!"
also Jay: Continues to file Glass edges without Mask!
LMAO
he also just ripped off his mask instantly after he was done cutting like there wasn’t still glass dust in the air..
also scratches his nose with that gloves
Yeah. Not an expert on glass, but Id say that is risky.
He also says, do as he says not as he does
And has facial hair half defeating the point of the mask
A glass build would be awesome from start to finish. Really would like to see the way you map out the path and bends using plastic first and then cut the glass to both water cool the CPU and the GPX card. I would assume you would have to essentially build it twice with the glass being the final product. I would totally do that for my next build in a couple of years (when the gpu stock is normalized...)
I like your optimism Sir :D (in a couple of years when the gpu stock normalized)
Glass build would be good, going through the considerations of fittings, diameters, fluids and dyes.
Also, basic needs and nice to haves. There's enough differences to make it interesting.
This reminds me of when I took up a chemistry class in college. We were required to buy these thin glass tubes for our lab use. We'd hand them over to the lab technician, and it was mesmerizing to watch them cut, melt, and essentially turn those glass tubes into stirrers, droppers, and scoops of various lengths/sizes that we get to keep after the term. All this done on a Bunsen burner.
My buddy had a kinkajou glass cutter. It had the similar walking issue you talked about at the beginning but, you would pour boiling after on the score and then cold water to fracture at that point.
I bring that up because if you have a good score on a piece you want to remove like half an inch on, it should work. If you put an o-ring on each side, that will also focus the water to stay concentrated on the score.
Just a thought, cool video
"Look at the clarity of that'
RTX On.
borosilicate is essentially Pyrex, and its resiliency against breaking and temps, compared to normal glass, is accomplished by allowing the molecules to anneal by cooling VERY slowly.
this is a long way of saying, maybe don't use the air to cool it, if you want to retain greater strength against cracks and breaks. 😊
Kinda of like a steel weld. If you cool steel too quickly, you cause the crystal structure to be coarse and large, making it brittle. Especially in the heat affected zone on either side of the weld bead.
....
You are nearly right.
The resilience comes from the addition of Boron, not from cooling it down slowely. And while Pyrex is a common brand-name associated with that, it is neither the inventor, nor main producer - and a lot of Pyrex is NOT borosilicate but normal soda-lime glas.
It used to be almost entirely borosilicate but not any more.
The air cooling isn't the main issue its the using of a blower to cool it and not using a lower powered flame to keep it warm for a few minutes after bending. with how thin glass tubing is its not going to impart as much stress as a thicker glass so you can aneal it much faster but you do want to anneal it.
1:45 His name is Beaker and he's from the Muppets.
And I still think Erlenmeyer would be a much more appropriate name for Dr. Bunsen's lab assistant.
Both are correct - the laboratory equipment IS called a beaker. It's a glass container with an open top, and usually has a spout or "beak" for pouring. AND, he's Doctor Bunsen Honeydew's assistant on the Muppets.
All about another water-cooled build. Would probably watch the uncut version tbh, Jay custom builds are always fun to watch.
I've put together several glass tube builds. I've found that just sticking to 90 degree bends using fittings to be the best DIY method. If you want bends in the tubes, stick to PETG.
"I made a very phallic piece of glass."
SHOW US!!!!!
You can use dremel with little cutting disc to cut this as well
I don't think I'd ever do this but I definitely enjoyed watching someone else do it (even if it was with a drill taped to a table 🤣). Would love to see a glass build
Yes I would enjoy watching you make an all glass tube cooling solution.
Diamond cut off wheel on a Dremel will save you tons of time, that's what I do. You can get a knock off Dremel for 20 bucks and the cut off wheel for a little less. All in all less than 40 bucks and no need for a torch or sanding, I round the edges with the cut off wheel.
Cool. Some crack pipes to go with GPU prices.
lol
Epic comment. Lolllll
That's what you make with the leftover pieces of glass when you are done with the build :)
Looks like a pane in the glass 🥁
They are called Beaker cups, because they have a "beak" for pouring liquid.
This isn't actually true, it comes from the greek for drinking vessels. But laboratory beakers do usually have beaks.
@@Eddiebo619 it actually derives from the german word for cylindric vessel that is Becher.
@@thepais9497 yep, from the greek bikos
@@Eddiebo619 not exactly germans and german language has nothing to do with greek, it's from Old High German behhari (compare Dutch beker), from Late Latin bīcārium ("wine vat, jug")
@@thepais9497 and latin got some wird's from old greek. The languages are all connected in western Europe...
To help with the bends u can also fill the tube with sand, and cap both ends, it won’t crimp your glass
I've also seen what looks like a rope inserted (presumably fiberglass or some other heat resistant material). I searched around for it, but failed to find it.
Former sign guy here, put a cork in one end of the glass and rubber tube with blow piece on other end and as you bend glass keep constant pressure. OR find a neon sigh shop and have the neon tube bender bend your tubes for you. As somebody else said neon tubing comes in many colors and diameters (and is most likely cheaper) available from sign supply shop.
12:30 actually capping them off would cause the tube to expand under the heat. Heat causes air molecules to spread out. Therefore youll have some expansion in the tube if not super careful.
Jay: "when you try screw up but you can't"
ColdPlay: "when you don't try at all, but you still succeed"
Me: "I wish I knew how that felt"
Jay, quit tempting me, I'm going to ruin my future build with this xD
I feel you bro, i feel you.. My GF is going to kill me when i start doing a glas tube build.. xD
@@RngmonsterX I don't even have a PC for gaming! Yet from his videos, I want to go so extravagant!
@@RngmonsterX but why? Epeen? Id much rather use frosted acrylic that looks 10x better and costs 10x less... unless theres something special you can do with glass tube builds you cannot with acrylic... that im oblivious to. I mean... maybe if you had a professional artesian glass blower to help you make some baller ass reservoir or something.
@@crisnmaryfam7344 why do i buy motherboards for 600-700€ ? Why do i buy RAM for 1000€? Because why not? I'm an enthusiast and i love playing around with hardware.
Just think of what may happen when the system takes a hard bump... and that should be enough to discourage you.
We're talking catastrophic failure and not just a few drops of coolant, but potentially water everywhere.
Definitely not worth the hassle.
Love the reference to Vice Grip Garage!
if you're going to be doing a lot of glass tube builds. In the stained glass world, there is a diamond ring saw to cut glass. The blade of the saw is a 360 degree cutting direction. This would be a good way to precisely trim your glass tubing and giving a more finished edge after the cut. Google "stained glass ring saw" Zephyr makes a good product.
That ending deserved something more:
"Hey, lets heat the bottle!" (if the bottle was full of alcohol) 🤣
You know a videos gonna be good when jay starts it off holding a mapp torch.
I died when Jay made his Vicegripgarage reference
I heard that and was so stoked i always forget jay is a car man
This is why I came to the comments
@@jamesturner3151 He has a whole channel for his car stuff! Nice name.
Glass blower here:
I’d recommend a blow hose firstly to get the internal pressure up in order to not have to worry about it collapsing. Also a small glass blowing torch from GTT is like $300-500 bucks used/new and would be worth it.
Also Jay, the orange flame is the sodium in the glass burning off. Highly recommend didymium glasses to protect your eyes.
Looking forward to an amazing glass build with lots of piping and cool bends, you need a great colour that pops in those clear pipes..
Great work Jay.
Vice Grip Garage - The smart man who’s always being dipped.
"I am aware of how bad this is"
camera zooms out to show Jay holding glass in a drill and a propped up torch with no safety wearing sandals with shorts.... yeah pretty bad lmao
The sandals and shorts actually are not the main issues in this video. Proper body positioning can cancel out almost all the dangers those create. The fact that he's relying on tape to hold the drill that is connected to a tube that is over a carpet is a much greater danger. The gloves that will melt into his hands aren't great either.
Fun fact, skin sticks to hot glass. I knew a glass blower with an amazing scar when a 2" marble he was working popped off the punty (glass handle) landed on his thigh and rolled down his leg melting skin and collecting it like a snowball rolling down a hill. Most glassworkers work standing up for that reason.
@@gravdigr27 Holy i can imagine the hole it must have left. hope it wasn't too large, he may have had to get a graft.
@@duser it didnt leave a hole. It rolled down his leg and made a track down his thigh as it picked up skin on the way. Hot glass is dangerous. I cringed so many time watching this I made a comment begging him to bring in someone experienced with glass working. Additionally without a kiln to anneal the glass every bend will cool with stress in it and eventually crack and/or break which would be bad. There is a LOT more to working with glass than acrylic. I did it for about 8 years.
@@gravdigr27
Oh gods, stuff you'd learn permanently after only one oopsie, guaranteed.
The orange is the sodium in the glass burning.
Exactly this, blue is hotter than red Jay.
its not quite the sodium burning (as that would imply its reacting with the oxygen) but rather there is enough heat to push up the sodium electrons into a higher energy level, when said electron falls backdown to a lower energy level it emits the same amount of energy, but as light. The amount of energy correlates with distance of the gap between the higher and lower states, and that is why different metals emit different colors ight when heated as the differnce between the energy levels are different.
do a build please and im always down to see more of these comments about advice, always trust advice of someone whos done a trade for a living, experience speaks volumes!
To round the edges after scoring an snapping the glass tubing you can proceed to just heat it until the glass gets soft, then it will round the edges by itself without the need of sandpaper, etc.. Borosilicate glass has a really really low heattransfercoefficient, so you dont need to worry about the whole pipe heating up when your only applying heat to edges. In university we use a very powerful hydrogen/oxygen burner for preparing tubes and ampules and you can touch the glass even a few centimeters away from the spot you're applying heat to even, even without gloves you won't notice the extreme heat.
5:59
Jay: "The hotter it gets, the flame turns orange"
Physics major students: "I'm gonna have to stop you right there"
@alida flus uhh....... I guess you've replied to the wrong comment
The ultimate goal: building neon tubing for maximum RGB effect
Something tells me that putting a hight voltage, high frequency source (what you need to lit a neon tube) inside a PC might not go well with all the fiddly electronic parts.
@@agarceran If Linus can electrocute himself for science, it's at least worth the attempt... Y'know... Science.
At least I won't be trying it at home lmao
"Help me understand!" (shakes object in frustration) -Derek
We did something similar in my high school chemistry class, we bent and broke glass stir rods over a Bunsen burner. I don’t know if your outcome would be different since you’re bending hollow rods, but we bent the rods over a metal water faucet to get a perfect unwrinkled inner radius
Yes, Borosilicate is primo test tube material. That was the first thing that came to mind when you announced the material.
Also Please do a glass tubing build. I would love to watch how you do the measurements and everything for the tubing etc. Could be like a mini series even.
"I was able to make a very phallic looking piece of glass before this, so fight me."
- Put on your mask, cause all that fine glass dust isn't good for your breathers.
- * Snap *
- 1 sec later: removes mask, starts sanding and filing...
I love how he just excuses himself when he's wrong.
"Well it sucks air from this side"
Yes please do a glass build with minimal fittings! Should look amazing!
YES! This is the one thing that would make me want to water cool a setup and do it properly! Glass is one thing I'd be really interested in working with and is much cleaner than acrylic. Awesome video and would love to see more!
Jay: Wants to fail.. Glass: Succeeds.
Jay: Wants to show something good. Glass: fails.
Couldn’t you put a cylindrical tube slightly smaller than the glass tube an inch in to break off and inch or less of glass tube
it'll work, but first you need to make sure the smaller tube/rod has the strength to survive it.
*maybe*, but i'm pretty sure an important part of breaking the glass is the pulling he talked about, and just the leverage isn't enough.
@@eletricsaberman8916 I think it would be since the longer the lever the more leverage you get. If you do it right it would work as though the tube was longer to begin with
Whats happening with the engine build?
Today I watched Jay become an amateur glassblower. Woo!
I would love to see a full glass tubing build, just to see how nice it looks when the water is filled and running. I bet it would look gorgeous with full lighting.
Yes, do a glass tube build. I really want to see how it looks in the case with coolant running through it.
the pain is real
To prevent cutting pieces too short: cut them deliberately too long and use a belt sander to take it to the precise length.
Jay"wanna see me hurt my self?"
Yes please do a full Glass build that would be awesome
Try sliding a bit of PVC over the glass to "extend" the glass tube when scoring and breaking small sections off. You can even use a bit of tape to make the PVC friction fit to the glass.
This was "glassy!" Yes, it's a dad joke...
I'm pretty sure you can make a tool that stops bending at 90 deg angles.
You really don't have to go through so much pain. Its like choosing to walk across a desert for 3 days instead of driving for 3 hours just because you want to be a purist.
a jig.
Blue flames are hotter... When the flame changes color it's due to material particles burning.
Tip: if you want to break a little piece off like at 15:52, get a dowel that is the exact diameter as the inside diameter of the glass and use that as leverage
YESSSSSS JAY!!! Glass tubing build and please apply your creative genius to it. I miss your awesome crafting skills in pc builds. Ex: rdr2 build, destiny build, star wars build, etc
"We like to make videos when we do things."
Noti gang:
Early gang!
Because of your first glass tubing video I decided to do my first custom loop in glass. It turned out great but a lot of fittings. So YES. I would love to see another glass tubing video!!!!!!
yes absolutely PLEASE do a glass build it will be awesome!!!!!!
Glass is awesome. I made my FIRST watercooling build with glass. I used PETG as templates, same as Jay, and used butloads of fittings and some prebent glass pieces. I messed up one prebent piece and had to swap it for straights with fittigns and didn't get the lenght perfectly right, so it's crooked, but everything is sealed just fine :P I've been using this build for past two years, and the best thing about glass is that it does not cloud, it does not introduce anything to your coolant, so my pastel white fluid is holding perfeclty fine (my res is glass, the only part non glass is either metal, orings or acrylic cover for GPU block).
I was talking to a glass blower recently about interest in getting into the business. He recommended using 104 coe glass that you can get at like home depoe and use regular torch. Borosilicate is a relatively strong glass and apparently using something like that 104 coe glass it's easier to play around with especially as a beginner. It's a way to get used to the consistency and the way that glass works when it's hot. At least it seems like your MAP torch works well enough to heat boro though.
Make tubing from uranium glass! that stuff glows in black light and occasionally in dark too!
You need to make a loop with Quartz Glass Tubes! Blistering temperatures won’t melt these quartz tubes, and rapid temperature shifts won’t cause them to crack. Even tougher than borosilicate, they can be used in furnaces and ovens heated up to 2000° F. These highly pure tubes are often used in laboratories because they won’t leach impurities into samples or contaminate chemical reactions. Quartz tubes are optically clear and have excellent UV transmission, making them ideal for UV purification systems.
For trimming glass tubes use your dremel with diamond disc and for smoothing edges use your gas gun (torh) and apply heat on the edges until they start melting and you ready to go
Good luck with next glass project
yes please do a glass build. That would be looking great
Two points:
1) You could have explained a bit about different types of glass, specifically borosilicate is much more resistant against sudden temperature changes than "common" glass, if the tube was common glass, your heating and cooling methods would have resulted in it cracking into pieces; and
2) If you want to cut the glass instead of the slightly dangerous scoring and forcing method, the diamond blades for e.g. dremel-type small drills are not that expensive. This goes also for drill bits that you can use to smooth out the sharp corners of glass, or even bevel glass parts.
I've done a glass build with pre-bent pieces and used a diamond blade for my dremel to cut the glass and shorten the last mm to get it perfect length.
When I make a short cut on glass, I put a wooden dowel in the short end to apply pressure from the center. Not a science or physics major by any means but I think the dowel evens out the pressure across the whole inside diameter of the tube. Hence making a cleaner break.
Yes, Do an all glass build. That would be pretty cool. It's got to be over the top in all ways though, to match.