I did an 7900X3D upgrade and used the frosted Corsair PMMA tubing for it and loved it. There were PETG tubes in there till then (did it in october as my first custom build) and i liked working with PMMA a lot more tbh.
As someone who had no idea about this even existing until now, thank you Jay. Now I know the differences, not only in theory but in practice, and i will be using pmma in my own builds.
I think for a chemist it's less confusing that the general term "acrylic" stands for a dozen different recipes and compositions with differing properties; they're the ones who come up with those recipes! Btw, it's the same with many other plastics. The name only really tells you the main ingredient. Additives and their amounts can vary greatly.
It does get a lot less confusing the more you know about it but admittedly that kind of in-depth knowledge is mostly irrelevant to everyday joe. Seeing things get overgeneralized or mislabled, or whatever can be anywhere from annoying to funny depending on context but throwing around even more acronyms for people to juggle would probably get even more confusing really quickly, not to say make mixups even more of a problem. Besides, I think Jay did a decent job of touching on the core of that topic, as far as normal people are concerned.
Was thinking about doing a custom loop in the future. And one of the questions I found myself asking was what's the difference between the type of tubes. Thanks Jay for the video
Thank you for posting a video like this. Not only is it informative but also entertaining. I appreciate that you are still humble and make videos that take the time to explain, both you and Steve go out of your way to keep things simple.
Since I started custom watercooling, I've always used soft tubing because that was the fittings I bought and new fittings are expensive, but if I ever switch to hardline, I will 100% be using PMMA hard tubes.
I was just watching the video and saw you do the cut on the acrylic tube. While cutting by hand is fine, it is soooo much easier if you have a chop-saw with a plastic cutting blade on it. The plastic cutting blade makes great cuts on acrylic, and you don't have to go through the trouble of cutting by hand and having your cut be super slanted. That is how I made my build with acrylic tubes and it made things WAY easier.
I work at a plastic speciality manufacturing company. You can use heated power strips to control where you on the tube you want heat depending on the material what kind of bind.
One thing that is worth mentioning that I found after bending all of my own tubes, were the pre-bent sets from EK (I'm sure others make it too). But the pre-bent stuff took so much work out of it, and for the price about 90 bucks gave me more than enough to do my loop with a few to spare.
Yeah, those are just the best. They cost a bit, but if you are doing custom loop you are already forking out tons of money. You get really good bends, and you most likely don't even need heat gun.
@@mukkaar yeah, if you're doing your own loop and you know you just need 90s then those kits may save you a few bucks with not needing to buy a heat gun.
finished my 2nd hardline loop with the pmma tube corsair kit, even though i never used petg, pmma definitely seems worth it. you can get really nice bends, more rigid for nice straight runs, looks more glasslike and won't discolor as easy too.
Yo, I have watched this video half a dozen times. I have been planing another Watercooled EK build, This video has had has helped me remember to switch back to PETG 5 times. Thank you to the JTC team for all of their hard work.
due to your channel, i built my first pc. really mild sleeper out of an old gateway case. never built or loaded anything before but your information/content guided me through it. now i think i will start a major build. I thank you for instructing an idiot like me to accomplish what i set out to do.
Man Jay! You really gave yourself a scar on your frustrating personal computer build. I hope you heal well. Thanks for your sacrifice for all of us nerds.
Did my first custom cooling with Corsairs frosted PMMA and achieved a lot of bends including double S bends. So the material held up with my lack of experience. Good tubing saves you money with fittings also if you can manage to do it right. The only problem with the frosted texture is that you can get visible scratches on it if you are not careful.
Through the keyboard hobby, I learned similar things about PETG and acrylic plates (what the switches ultimately clip into to hold them in place). Obviously, a keyboard plate has no thermal constraints unless something's wrong, but the flexible and durable nature of PETG gives it a very soft bottom-out switch feel. In contrast, acrylic is known to be very rigid and brittle, so it'll give a more solid bottom-out feel but you also run the risk of developing cracks without proper support.
Thank you so much for this video!! Answered some questions I was going over, while trying do my first water cool build. Frickin 30 years, all I have done is air cooled.
My first run of Corsair PMMA tubes scattered super easily. I was a bit frustrated. This was years ago. Happy to see the quality has improved. Glad to see we all make the same mistakes. Once a tube gets folds like the back of the knee sucks. Love these kinds of videos.
Glad you shared this about PMMA, didn't know it existed. I've used PETG and Acrylic in builds, the Acrylic looks so much better and holds up very well over time. Acrylic is brittle and just takes a little more patience when bending.
I only use PMMA tubes. I'm not using cheap soft plastic tubes(PTEG) in a expensive high end PC. I've found that PETG being easier than Acrylic to work with overblown. Just use the right tools for the materials your using. A good heat gun with precise heat settings makes PMMA heating and bending far easier.
The g in petg means glycol modified pet. PET no g is what plastic drink bottles are made of. The glass transition temp and melting temp are NOT the same. They are often close, but some materials have a gt well below their melting point.
For my build, I wanted to go with frosted tubing, but I had the 14mm fittings from EK...and there were few options at all for that size aside from Corsair. And I also just happened to have the Primochill drill bit...so imagine my surprise when I started trimming it down like you do with PETG and hear it sound like it is just fracturing and cracking all over the place, and then shatter on the end. So....I pulled out my fine tooth dovetail saw that I use for woodworking and gut it that way, THEN lightly used the drill bit..... EXCELLENT results at that point.
Yeah, I got Alphacool's frosted PMMA in 10mm/13mm. This was definitely a nice watch. My last build was with PETG. Gonna have to work on those bends a bit now that I know what I was doing wrong.
I am not interested in water cooling, well, not doing it myself anyway. I am MOST impressed at how many jokes about tubes and veins you got into this video! The perfect amount and super informative. Just 'cause I am not going to do it, doesn't mean it isn't worth knowing!
I’ve used Corsair clear and frosted and I feel that the frosted is harder and takes more heat then the clear. But I will only use Corsair tubing from now on.
Just finished a PETG build for my youngest and having watched your video I ordered 6m of Corsair frosted 10/14 plus the Primochill drill bit. Waiting for delivery here in the UK - plus waiting on the EK 4090 water block for Zotac Trinity OC.
I'm glad you updated the recommendation on tubing. I currently have PETG in my system, but tend to be worried about the temperatures. I'm limiting the temperature to 38-39 C (0.7 overshoot on the PID control), but for some reason still a little concerned.
I've been water cooling for a while and since Hydro X PMMA came out, it is all I use honestly, I like that I can take my time with it and not be in a rush like other tubing, if your new to this then get this tubing and it will be a lot more forgiving then others, it might ne a few bucks more but again worth it when u do not need to order more.
To answer your question, about the holder to cut the tubes with a saw, it's included in the Corsair kit, if you buy that kit, it contains, the holder, the saw, the thing to deburring the inside and outside to protect the rubber washer. I use a tube cutter for copper tubes, the only thing is, you have to look good you're not going too fast and splinter the tube. This is the case if I use the bent tubes from EK, they are harder than the Corsairs tubes. IFR uses the same roll cutters.
This reminds me of delrin bolts from my paintballing days. Not all delrin is the same grade. The cheaper delrin was less dense and would absorb oil, swell up, and get stuck in the body.
That's a good advertisement for Corsair's tubes. I've made my own frosted PETG tubes but considered changing to acrylic or pmma, so maybe I just get Corsair's frosted ones and give it a try.
17:54 well i dont care about watercooling at all but this was still interesting for me ;D i like the way how you just show what you are talking about instead of just say it "and now believe me" and you just say it clear why you use something .. or not .. but at the same time you never blame someone for doing it different thats a big reason for me why i always love your videos like this showing any difference in some kind of products
Thank you, Jay. There is not a lot of content on technique on bending. You should do a long boring video on the little tips and tricks on bending of each type. You are the only source I trust on custom water loops. Oh, and make sure you have a lot of word blunders.
PETG has a chance to deform at 40C and can cause leaks inside the fittings. (EK has special inserts for this problem). Since im running a SFF loop i definitely went for the more heat resistant acrylic tubing. It also looks more clear
Cool! I think I know what I'm doing for my next hardline build. Used PETG for my first one. Second is definitely going to be PMMA, I need those tight bends
I got that cutting guide in the Corsair water cooling kit. And had the same problem with it where my tubes cut at an angle. Next build will use PEGT tubes.
Thanks for making this video. I wouldn't do a custom piping and watercool build because I don't trust my own build quality around electronics let alone not having the right tools, but still an interesting watch to learn that there are different tube types. I'm someone who would slap in an arctic liquid freezer 420mm and call it a day haha, though frosted tubing with blue coolant in a white case/gpu shroud style would look pretty sick.
For industrial machines we just use SMC fittings and tubing. Great stuff. But we use flexible tubing since it goes through e-chains. Argon, DI water, N2, air. Takes all of it.
I still like using brass hard tube, don't have to worry about coolant causing issues with the lines, plus you get the added cooling from the tubing. Not easiest to work with but the end result looks awesome
A cool feature of PMMA is scratches and minor surface imperfections can be removed with a little car polish. A disadvantage of PMMA is that pieces can crack at bends if dropped. Found that out the hard way. Dropped a U-bend my daughter made and it cracked.
I am not at all interested in water cooling my PC. The maintenance is just something I don't want to put up with, but this video was quite fascinating. So there! I enjoyed it!
Coming from years of 3D printing, the blistering can be minimized by "drying" the acrylic. PMMA and PETG are hydroscopic plastics, meaning that it will absorb moisture from the air. Once heated, the water will collect in pockets and expand causing blisters. It can actually affect the strength of the material overall over time. This is why you want 3D printing filament dry too.
Over twenty years of building PCs and have never done one so I don't think I have that particular itch (custom loops), but no less interesting to watch and learn about. Not all content has to be oh did/said this let's be mad together, some of the best content out there IMO is simply "look at this cool thing". That's why I got into PC building anyway.
Great video! I'm planning to use the Corsair Satin Black PMMA tubes in my build later this year. Great to see a video comparing different tube materials!
I’m so happy u made this. It looks so good. I’m thinking of doing a new build in the Corsair 1000D and doing a double loop. I think I’ll do the pmma tubing but idk if I wanna do transparent or do satin. Cause I’d like the kinda opaque look without needing to do the maintenance required.
that was awesome. I'm looking at the corsair case with the distro/pump combo at some point in the future and things like this help me to know which tubes to get.
Great Video as always. I am going to tube my system once i have all the parts. Your video has convinced me to go with PMMA. It is well worth the time it takes to do this and the end result looks amazing. Cheers Jay
Can confirm! PETG does not like tight bends. Had a hell of a time with mine because I needed tight bends, ended up scrapping that idea and using another 90 fitting
I've always used traditional "acrylic" and just put up with it's limitations in return for the perfect glassy appearance. (Just used a lot of patience and a gentle touch) I'm certainly going to give PMMA a try. Thanks for a very informative video! Better call giecol!
Do not clean Corsair Hydrox X frosted PMMA tubes with alcohol without testing first. If you do, you may get a clear PMMA tube. I know this from experience. The frosted color on the Corsair Hydro X tube my daughter used in her last build was just paint that came off with alcohol. Cool, if you want to mix and match. Of course, that may have just been the batch she used. So, test on scrap pieced for color fast.
Acrylic does NOT like alcohol. It will make it crack and deform it in the worst cases. it attacks PMMA big time. That's why it should never be used to clean clear waterblocks or tubing. Even window cleaner should be avoided as it contains IPA.
@@ledoynier3694 yes PMMA is soluble in alcohol. Or, alcohol is subtle in PMMA. Basically, alcohol can infiltrate the polymer and disrupt the polymer binding. It is like removing mortar from a brick wall.
Can we all take a moment and applaud that Gycol edit? That was fantastic.
That edit is up there with the i fix it ad hahahaha epic job
yes.
I was lmao
what was the music used there?
Ain't the whole video an edit 🤔
The shock at the shatter resistance was probably a better advertisement for Corsair's tubing than they could ever have paid for.
I did an 7900X3D upgrade and used the frosted Corsair PMMA tubing for it and loved it. There were PETG tubes in there till then (did it in october as my first custom build) and i liked working with PMMA a lot more tbh.
7900X3D how is it bro? Whats your idle temp?
What tubing our you calling Frosted pmma tubing our you calling the satin transparent Frosted.
@@chevy7912 I used the Corsair Hydro X Series XT Hardline Tube Satin 14mm to be exact.
@@dobbi6083 Thanks for answering thought I was misreading something on corsairs website I appreciate the answer back.
Should have just bit the bullet and went for the 7950x3d at that point lmao.
As someone who had no idea about this even existing until now, thank you Jay. Now I know the differences, not only in theory but in practice, and i will be using pmma in my own builds.
I think for a chemist it's less confusing that the general term "acrylic" stands for a dozen different recipes and compositions with differing properties; they're the ones who come up with those recipes! Btw, it's the same with many other plastics. The name only really tells you the main ingredient. Additives and their amounts can vary greatly.
I'm just glad they stopped using plastic and rubber as descriptors.
@@timlaunyc now we just have "synthetic" instead :D
It does get a lot less confusing the more you know about it but admittedly that kind of in-depth knowledge is mostly irrelevant to everyday joe.
Seeing things get overgeneralized or mislabled, or whatever can be anywhere from annoying to funny depending on context but throwing around even more acronyms for people to juggle would probably get even more confusing really quickly, not to say make mixups even more of a problem.
Besides, I think Jay did a decent job of touching on the core of that topic, as far as normal people are concerned.
@@ShermSpinner Oh he did for sure!
I wonder... PVC tubes?
Was thinking about doing a custom loop in the future. And one of the questions I found myself asking was what's the difference between the type of tubes. Thanks Jay for the video
Thank you for posting a video like this. Not only is it informative but also entertaining. I appreciate that you are still humble and make videos that take the time to explain, both you and Steve go out of your way to keep things simple.
Since I started custom watercooling, I've always used soft tubing because that was the fittings I bought and new fittings are expensive, but if I ever switch to hardline, I will 100% be using PMMA hard tubes.
Yea I use soft as well. I LOVE epdm. Shits amazing.
I was just watching the video and saw you do the cut on the acrylic tube. While cutting by hand is fine, it is soooo much easier if you have a chop-saw with a plastic cutting blade on it. The plastic cutting blade makes great cuts on acrylic, and you don't have to go through the trouble of cutting by hand and having your cut be super slanted. That is how I made my build with acrylic tubes and it made things WAY easier.
A table saw works pretty good too.
These past few videos have been a lot of fun to watch. I am glad you are doing more build and custom PC videos!
I liked the part where Jay suddenly whipped out his big tube. Astonishing.
“Today we’re going to talk about my tube and how I like to use it…” Jay 2023
JayTube
0:01
Lol
There was no inuendo in this intro, with the thumbnail and all he makes...
He likes to flex it and grind it out with a bit, seemingly....
I work at a plastic speciality manufacturing company. You can use heated power strips to control where you on the tube you want heat depending on the material what kind of bind.
I would watch "Better Call Gycol" the intro alone sold me.
One thing that is worth mentioning that I found after bending all of my own tubes, were the pre-bent sets from EK (I'm sure others make it too). But the pre-bent stuff took so much work out of it, and for the price about 90 bucks gave me more than enough to do my loop with a few to spare.
Yeah, those are just the best. They cost a bit, but if you are doing custom loop you are already forking out tons of money. You get really good bends, and you most likely don't even need heat gun.
Agreed, but for a lot of us folks, that takes out the fun of it. Marveling at your bends and runs is a great feeling.
@@PowerPunch360 Oh, 100%. I spent 3 days doing my bends the first time. I was proud as hell, but at the same time, once was enough lol
@@mukkaar yeah, if you're doing your own loop and you know you just need 90s then those kits may save you a few bucks with not needing to buy a heat gun.
@@gamedevcarto Yeah, I agree. Going metal tubing for my Ryzen 7000 build and I ain't qualified to bend those, so just going to buy pre-bent lol
finished my 2nd hardline loop with the pmma tube corsair kit, even though i never used petg, pmma definitely seems worth it. you can get really nice bends, more rigid for nice straight runs, looks more glasslike and won't discolor as easy too.
Watching Jay struggle to figure out why nothing ever works as intended on video is magical. "Watch this bend.... .... .... .... Okay then."
Yo, I have watched this video half a dozen times. I have been planing another Watercooled EK build, This video has had has helped me remember to switch back to PETG 5 times. Thank you to the JTC team for all of their hard work.
due to your channel, i built my first pc. really mild sleeper out of an old gateway case. never built or loaded anything before but your information/content guided me through it. now i think i will start a major build. I thank you for instructing an idiot like me to accomplish what i set out to do.
Man Jay! You really gave yourself a scar on your frustrating personal computer build. I hope you heal well. Thanks for your sacrifice for all of us nerds.
Did my first custom cooling with Corsairs frosted PMMA and achieved a lot of bends including double S bends. So the material held up with my lack of experience. Good tubing saves you money with fittings also if you can manage to do it right. The only problem with the frosted texture is that you can get visible scratches on it if you are not careful.
Jay you guys been killin it lately with the entertaining videos! Keep ‘em coming
Through the keyboard hobby, I learned similar things about PETG and acrylic plates (what the switches ultimately clip into to hold them in place). Obviously, a keyboard plate has no thermal constraints unless something's wrong, but the flexible and durable nature of PETG gives it a very soft bottom-out switch feel. In contrast, acrylic is known to be very rigid and brittle, so it'll give a more solid bottom-out feel but you also run the risk of developing cracks without proper support.
Thanks for the video, it gave me a confidence boost to actually want to finish the custom loop that I've been putting off for months
Thank you so much for this video!! Answered some questions I was going over, while trying do my first water cool build. Frickin 30 years, all I have done is air cooled.
My first run of Corsair PMMA tubes scattered super easily. I was a bit frustrated. This was years ago. Happy to see the quality has improved.
Glad to see we all make the same mistakes. Once a tube gets folds like the back of the knee sucks. Love these kinds of videos.
Glad you shared this about PMMA, didn't know it existed. I've used PETG and Acrylic in builds, the Acrylic looks so much better and holds up very well over time. Acrylic is brittle and just takes a little more patience when bending.
Phil, this is HANDS DOWN the best edit you have ever done on a video. You had me crying the first Snickers shot!
Really wish this video would have come out like 6 months ago, It would have saved me so much time figuring out what I wanted on my loop
I only use PMMA tubes. I'm not using cheap soft plastic tubes(PTEG) in a expensive high end PC. I've found that PETG being easier than Acrylic to work with overblown. Just use the right tools for the materials your using. A good heat gun with precise heat settings makes PMMA heating and bending far easier.
Bang on vid, Jay. Never a wasted/pointless video from you so never need to apologise for a vid, there's ALWAYS info for someone in every video.
The g in petg means glycol modified pet. PET no g is what plastic drink bottles are made of.
The glass transition temp and melting temp are NOT the same. They are often close, but some materials have a gt well below their melting point.
For my build, I wanted to go with frosted tubing, but I had the 14mm fittings from EK...and there were few options at all for that size aside from Corsair. And I also just happened to have the Primochill drill bit...so imagine my surprise when I started trimming it down like you do with PETG and hear it sound like it is just fracturing and cracking all over the place, and then shatter on the end. So....I pulled out my fine tooth dovetail saw that I use for woodworking and gut it that way, THEN lightly used the drill bit.....
EXCELLENT results at that point.
Yeah, I got Alphacool's frosted PMMA in 10mm/13mm. This was definitely a nice watch. My last build was with PETG. Gonna have to work on those bends a bit now that I know what I was doing wrong.
I am not interested in water cooling, well, not doing it myself anyway. I am MOST impressed at how many jokes about tubes and veins you got into this video! The perfect amount and super informative. Just 'cause I am not going to do it, doesn't mean it isn't worth knowing!
I’ve used Corsair clear and frosted and I feel that the frosted is harder and takes more heat then the clear. But I will only use Corsair tubing from now on.
Thanks! Here's some tubing payback. Appreciate your content always
That Better Call Gycol bit had me on the floor laughing
Just finished a PETG build for my youngest and having watched your video I ordered 6m of Corsair frosted 10/14 plus the Primochill drill bit. Waiting for delivery here in the UK - plus waiting on the EK 4090 water block for Zotac Trinity OC.
Holy crap nice job woth the editing phil 👏
I think my favorite videos are when Jay talks about all the different whys in terms of watercooling.
I'm glad you updated the recommendation on tubing.
I currently have PETG in my system, but tend to be worried about the temperatures.
I'm limiting the temperature to 38-39 C (0.7 overshoot on the PID control), but for some reason still a little concerned.
I love watching you break stuff. Just as fun when you do it intentionally!
Corsairs frosted PMMA tubing is brilliant even the 12mm is easy to work with and traditionally its a pain to bend without crimping.
I've been water cooling for a while and since Hydro X PMMA came out, it is all I use honestly, I like that I can take my time with it and not be in a rush like other tubing, if your new to this then get this tubing and it will be a lot more forgiving then others, it might ne a few bucks more but again worth it when u do not need to order more.
I've been using black PETG from primochill for years without issues. I also only use distilled water.
To answer your question, about the holder to cut the tubes with a saw, it's included in the Corsair kit, if you buy that kit, it contains, the holder, the saw, the thing to deburring the inside and outside to protect the rubber washer. I use a tube cutter for copper tubes, the only thing is, you have to look good you're not going too fast and splinter the tube. This is the case if I use the bent tubes from EK, they are harder than the Corsairs tubes. IFR uses the same roll cutters.
This reminds me of delrin bolts from my paintballing days. Not all delrin is the same grade. The cheaper delrin was less dense and would absorb oil, swell up, and get stuck in the body.
That little orange saw is so KYOOT!
Phil deserves a raise
That's a good advertisement for Corsair's tubes. I've made my own frosted PETG tubes but considered changing to acrylic or pmma, so maybe I just get Corsair's frosted ones and give it a try.
17:54 well i dont care about watercooling at all but this was still interesting for me ;D i like the way how you just show what you are talking about instead of just say it "and now believe me" and you just say it clear why you use something .. or not .. but at the same time you never blame someone for doing it different thats a big reason for me why i always love your videos like this showing any difference in some kind of products
Thank you, Jay. There is not a lot of content on technique on bending. You should do a long boring video on the little tips and tricks on bending of each type. You are the only source I trust on custom water loops. Oh, and make sure you have a lot of word blunders.
As iam going to do my first water loop here in the u.k, your channel has been invaluable to me. Keep up the good work.
I really appreciate the breakdown of the tubing materials, thanks boys
hey jay i like to use pipe cutters like husky pipe cutters to cut the acrylic pipe go slow and it will always leave a nice straight edge
glad i ran across this vid. i know what ima be using now. plan on going with a custom loop to try and solve a thermal issue.
Hey Jay.
Thanks to your videos, I went out and bought a Z790 board and i7 13700K today.
I'll be building my first computer this weekend, wish me luck.
PETG has a chance to deform at 40C and can cause leaks inside the fittings. (EK has special inserts for this problem). Since im running a SFF loop i definitely went for the more heat resistant acrylic tubing. It also looks more clear
Cool! I think I know what I'm doing for my next hardline build. Used PETG for my first one. Second is definitely going to be PMMA, I need those tight bends
Thank you Jay and the jayztwocents team
ive learned a lot from this. i actually feel more confident to try a making my own water cooled system.
That impact resistance test will prove very helpful as I build my water-cooled baseball bat.
As a car guy yourself, you should build a loop with engine/brake/fuel braided lines :D
I bet that would look slick
And this is why I watch your channel, bending tubes and fear of leaks spooks me because of the money involved. Thank you Jay!
I think I might just buy a low medium tier components to build pc and learn hard tubing .
@@0Blueaura TBH that's a pretty good way to go. Components so hot now you have to custom loop, then you can go all out in the future.
I got that cutting guide in the Corsair water cooling kit. And had the same problem with it where my tubes cut at an angle.
Next build will use PEGT tubes.
I'm finding that some sandpaper does a good job of evening out the cut so it's straight. I use it and then the deburr tool and the ends come out great
Being in plastic injection molding and making tubing adapters its interesting to see your blister test
Thanks for making this video. I wouldn't do a custom piping and watercool build because I don't trust my own build quality around electronics let alone not having the right tools, but still an interesting watch to learn that there are different tube types. I'm someone who would slap in an arctic liquid freezer 420mm and call it a day haha, though frosted tubing with blue coolant in a white case/gpu shroud style would look pretty sick.
MASSIVELY informative Jay! I am actually about to endeavor on my first ever custom loop build! Thanks for the info dude!
For industrial machines we just use SMC fittings and tubing. Great stuff. But we use flexible tubing since it goes through e-chains. Argon, DI water, N2, air. Takes all of it.
I still like using brass hard tube, don't have to worry about coolant causing issues with the lines, plus you get the added cooling from the tubing. Not easiest to work with but the end result looks awesome
A cool feature of PMMA is scratches and minor surface imperfections can be removed with a little car polish. A disadvantage of PMMA is that pieces can crack at bends if dropped. Found that out the hard way. Dropped a U-bend my daughter made and it cracked.
also a quick pass over a flame can erase small scratches, or turn your frosted PMMA back to transparent
The better call Saul reference was legendary
I am not at all interested in water cooling my PC. The maintenance is just something I don't want to put up with, but this video was quite fascinating. So there! I enjoyed it!
haha I'm still on epdm with qdc, less headache when it comes doing maintenance ✌️
in one of my build ideas i thought of using using copper pipe and adding fin plates take heat out of loop as well the rad.
Coming from years of 3D printing, the blistering can be minimized by "drying" the acrylic. PMMA and PETG are hydroscopic plastics, meaning that it will absorb moisture from the air. Once heated, the water will collect in pockets and expand causing blisters. It can actually affect the strength of the material overall over time.
This is why you want 3D printing filament dry too.
You can buy clear tubes and make it frosty with abrasive fleece or even a fine sandpaper
Over twenty years of building PCs and have never done one so I don't think I have that particular itch (custom loops), but no less interesting to watch and learn about. Not all content has to be oh did/said this let's be mad together, some of the best content out there IMO is simply "look at this cool thing". That's why I got into PC building anyway.
LOVE that better call Gycol insert
I just love these types of intros!
The frosted finish on the PMMA helps prevent cracking when you cut or bend it
informative for someone that is looking into wanting to try watercooling with the next build
The “finishing” tool 6:50 that you are referring too is a Chamfer/Deburring Tool.
Great video! I'm planning to use the Corsair Satin Black PMMA tubes in my build later this year. Great to see a video comparing different tube materials!
I’m so happy u made this. It looks so good. I’m thinking of doing a new build in the Corsair 1000D and doing a double loop. I think I’ll do the pmma tubing but idk if I wanna do transparent or do satin. Cause I’d like the kinda opaque look without needing to do the maintenance required.
PMMA is going in my 7950x3d build then. It's my first hardline build and this looks a lot more friendly
All your videos are very helpful and entertaining Jay. Thanks a lot 🙏🙏😍
that was awesome. I'm looking at the corsair case with the distro/pump combo at some point in the future and things like this help me to know which tubes to get.
Great Video as always. I am going to tube my system once i have all the parts. Your video has convinced me to go with PMMA. It is well worth the time it takes to do this and the end result looks amazing. Cheers Jay
thanks Jay, this was helpfull. I be trying PMMA next time aldo my pteg is holding up pretty well over the years.
Good overview of the different tube attributes. Thanks
This is why i like to just use EDPM. Makes it so simple.
That little Jig came with Corsair Bending Kit. Same one I have.
Can confirm! PETG does not like tight bends. Had a hell of a time with mine because I needed tight bends, ended up scrapping that idea and using another 90 fitting
Thanks Jay, was researching this yesterday and this video summed it all up
Hey, love the dad with glasses vibe this video gives 😅
The glasses suit you jay, looking good and healthy. Good video.
I've always used traditional "acrylic" and just put up with it's limitations in return for the perfect glassy appearance. (Just used a lot of patience and a gentle touch) I'm certainly going to give PMMA a try. Thanks for a very informative video! Better call giecol!
Do not clean Corsair Hydrox X frosted PMMA tubes with alcohol without testing first. If you do, you may get a clear PMMA tube. I know this from experience. The frosted color on the Corsair Hydro X tube my daughter used in her last build was just paint that came off with alcohol. Cool, if you want to mix and match. Of course, that may have just been the batch she used. So, test on scrap pieced for color fast.
Acrylic does NOT like alcohol. It will make it crack and deform it in the worst cases. it attacks PMMA big time.
That's why it should never be used to clean clear waterblocks or tubing. Even window cleaner should be avoided as it contains IPA.
@@ledoynier3694 yes PMMA is soluble in alcohol. Or, alcohol is subtle in PMMA. Basically, alcohol can infiltrate the polymer and disrupt the polymer binding. It is like removing mortar from a brick wall.