Bleed VW T25 Vanagon Radiator Coolant Cooling System
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ต.ค. 2024
- PLEASE NOTE: Heater should be in the on/open position for bleeding. Temp lever to the right on the dash. Forgot to mention this in the vid.
If are draining the system, watch my engine replacement video here, there is a better hose to remove. • VW Vangon T25 2.0 CU A... 😊👍
This is how I drain the cooling system on my VW Volkswagen T25 T3 Vanagon and then bleed the system to remove all air from the radiator. This method works well for me and may help if your having trouble bleeding the air from your cooling system.
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Really excellent video on coolant change. Bleeding, well done.
Thank you.
More?!
Thankyou 😊👍 You can find more T25 vids here: th-cam.com/play/PLas-bMbyRsgB5ZYru8CfJMUaPeTvXzmDo.html and have a couple more for release in a few weeks. 👍
I remember travelling in this van back from school! You sure are a quick driver, and it was fun. By the way, it's Ally here! 😊
Sshhhhh! 😅👍
@@PeoplesCar Why should I shush?
@@MesmerisingMarbles I think you meant careful and considerate driver! 😅
@@PeoplesCar Well, you definitely are safe when needed. I also love it when you tell people off about their driving, my mum does a bit of that too!
Bleed screw like a Nissens rad. Can be replaced with a metal bolt. I've gravity filled it through the bleed with a bottle on a stepladder. After running it to operating temp park it nose down on a good slope and let it cool. Any air will collect in the expansion tank. Top up and fill overflow to max. You can check for air at the bleed screw but likely will be none.
I haven't tried that method but thanks for the info. Going to try pressurising the system next time and see how that works 😊👍
Great video.
I’m going to do mine shortly.
Thank you
Thanks for the kind feedback. Since making this vid a few have come up in my feed using a pressurised setup which should push coolant to & air out the Rad (tho id still get that nose right up) and look interesting, but not tried them. I just know this works so sticking with it. Had to do it twice last week in the services after losing a coolant pipe on the motorway, not the most of fun and got some funny looks from people thinking I'd crashed trying to exit the carpark over the high kerb, but got us home after found a hose clip that would fit. From now on will carry a spare! 😅 Best of luck 👍
I didn't mention in the video I forgot, but need heater open (to the right) on the dash to avoid an air lock there 😊👍
I like the simple method, & if it works then I’m happy.
Thank you
@@stephenrogers9664 Always worked for me. And avoided annoying air locks in the radiator. Need to have you heater in hot/open position too so no air get locked there. Best of luck 👍
Hey I can’t wait, you may cover the issue I have with my T25…..
Cool. I've recommended this to a few peeps over the years and while it's a pain in the butt does seem to do the job so fingers xd for you. Got an even better
Vid for setting up the gear shifter waiting for release. Was soooo impressed when it 'just worked', that rarely happens with shifter probs 😅👍
Hi, Thanks for the video. Did you mix the coolant with water?
Yes I mix is with deionised or de mineralised water, called different things in different places. I personally lean heavy on the mix because of cold winters here about 50/50 but you will find a mixing guide on the bottle depending on manufacturer and concentration. Some are are mixed but I tend to avoid these. Deffo go for the pink glycol rather than cheaper blue, had a linger life so less hassle in the future. Best of luck 😊👍
thank for posting this. you don’t have to get the RPMs up to get the coolant to come out of the top of the radiator when the van is nose-up on ramps? 🤔
also what about the T-stat bleeder valve? thx bro
My pleasure. I've never left it running at idle long enough to find out so not 100% sure, I usually just up the revs a bit to speed up the process. I've never used the thermostat bleed tbh as with the nose up never needed to, wouldn't hurt to check there is no air left in there tho and only take a minute. Thanks for watching 😊👍
this would seem to suggest that the coolant pump impeller itself at idling RPMs suffices to get the water to effectively flow uphill. unless I’m missing something else!
thanks for replying!
@@barnacleburrito3728 maybe, it might well work given time I j.have just never waited. The pump on this van is actually a new replacement and it's no different to any of my other previous vans so pretty sure not a fault. 😊👍
Look like the previous fella hired Stevie Wonder for the respray!
I just called, to say, I love you. I just called to say I sprayed my van! Ha ha ha 😅🖕
@@PeoplesCar 🤣
Hi there, trying this on my van, when I fill from the radiator I can not get it to fill all the way up as it seems it leaks out of the expansion box at the back, it has 3 small holes that allow it to overflow, so I just filled it all the way I could and started to idle, I can feel air coming out of the radiator but it’s seems like it’s pushing and pulling air out of that hole and is not filling radiator have had it running for a while and still no water coming from top of radiator, any help 😊
How long would u have to run it for to start to see it coming from the radiator cap thing ?
It also does squirt out of that hole every now and then 😂 I’m doing everything in the video but starting to think I’ve done something wrong 😂
@bradleyfisher8933 Do you mean the expansion vessel with the dalek cap on rather than the fill bottle at the back hatch? I've never seen water come out of that when closed, it's possible there is something not right with the seal/valve in the cap, in the situation you talk about it's not under much pressure and pretty sure shouldn't leak? Tho not 100% as not sure what woukd happen in an over pressure situation.
The point of getting the nose up is purely the remove any air from the system, if the nose had been up and running for a while, and there is water I the Rad then you should be good to drop the nose if that helps. I usually give the rubber pipes a squish to make sure full of water and no air too, will get hot be careful.
It's does take a long time for the water to get hot enough to start pumping properly through the Rad. You have to idle for about 20 minutes or more and find for a while the water level just bobs up and down in the hole, I usually get bored and give it some light revs for a bit with a brick on the accelerator 😅. Will find with revs the water will flow much quicker and out the hole when hot so easier to see when full, but be careful it will squirt out quite quickly and starting to get hot at that point so might want to back revs off before fitting the Rad bung.
When the engine is turned off and cooling down, if the expansion vessel is low on water it will draw water from the rear fill bottle. It might be worth checking after a day that's it's working properly. The expansion should be near as full, the fill bottle may have dropped.
Hope that helps, best of luck 😊👍
@@PeoplesCar thanks very much for the detailed response, stepping away for the moment and this will be extremely useful when I go back and have another go !!! Thank you !
And it’s the (filler bottle) that’s directly behind the number plate hatch (apologies for wrong terminology’s -I’m learning) that’s the one with the holes in it ???
Might be a silly question. Where do you dispose of the liquid?
I have a couple of big containers and save old oil and fluids seperate. I take it to the guys who do my MOT so they can use use the oil in the garage heater over winter. I dunno what they do with the coolant I leave but tbh there isn't usually much if any. I think you can take to the Local Tip here in the UK and dispose as hazardous liquids if you want to be conscientious. 😊👍