วีดีโอ

@@user-ut3un3rd1p Thanks 😊👍

@@iamcracked9700 my pleasure 😊👍

I don't think the order is important. You just need to get the shifter in the correct position with your block, the arm at the rear in the correct upright position and any tension out of the section between the 2, if that makes sense. If your centre section is stuck, may need to free that so turns first. Remember the width of the block is dependant on what gearbox/engine setup you have. Check the video description for options other then the 1.9 dg dj. Best of luck 😊👍

Great stuff thanks for the kind words. Best of luck Hope it goes well. 😊👍

@@mariecumings7392 I forgot to mention, the next vid includes setting the handbrake as I described in this video. Won't be out for a week or 2 tho sorry 😊👍

@@iamcracked9700 I've never bought a new one, all ones ive fitted have always been DIY or home made hobbies 😅 Generally a 3/4 shouldn't be a prob, it's usually width to whatever units you have thats the problem if there is one. Alloys wheels there are plenty. Loads of options off the shelf if have the funds, otherwise pretty much anything 5/112 and your good to go. Be careful with sone merc wheels however as the centre hoke can be too small on these for fitment on a T25 without modification. If your not sure how to check PCD this is how th-cam.com/video/wqV79OLK5AU/w-d-xo.html its a tricky size tho as so many so close to it. Im actually selling a cheap set on ebay atm if in the UK item no 126546925507. Need to be sure they are suitable weight wise for your van too. I've used thse ones listed above but tbh not sure they or many others on the market technically are. Hope that helps. Best of luck 😊👍

Never heard of one of those? Why not do it in the engine? Tx for watching 😊👍

Bit of luck dude I hope so.👍 Just starting to clear space right now to get access to the LD10. Hoping to get some time in over summer holiday with my eldest. Chances are will be his first car! I think that would be cool as fook. I'm not sure he will agree! 😅

@@PeoplesCar that would be cool. My dad rebuilt my 1st car but that was because I bought a rotten MK1 escort 😂

@@bigalsvwratrod7346 I learned to drive in my dad's mk1 XR2! When I went to buy a mk1 1.1 fiesta xr2 lookalike because couldn't afford owt else ....even a 2cv! they panicked and ended up doubling my money for my 18th and a very early beef was born. They knew I was a hippy at heart! Can't thank them enough! Was earning £2.60 p/h at McDonald's! 😅👍

Was good to attend a show 350 miles away from home as when attending local stuff you often see the same cars over and over. Need to start building the confidence to chat with owners. Most are happy to talk and show round their cars I'm just such a mumbling bafoon lol. You wouldn't be believe how many takes I do on my videos 😅

Have you got a T25?

@@PeoplesCar no, but I'm tempted to get one

@@bigalsvwratrod7346 save for a decent rebuilt one if so. Even 5k buys trouble now. If you've watched my Rusty Lemon buyer guide vid, that shows you what 1200 quid gets you. I haven't shown it yet but when taking apart I literally tore the rear A arm off by hand! 😳😅

@@PeoplesCar ouch , best wait till I've finished my bug first then 🤔

Really. Tbh Ive never actually seen one before tho seen pic of a Volkswagen tool set. I think a straigh solid bar would be a better option so may look at improving the design for super sticky caps...usually one with lots of paint on the wheel, easier on the fingers. You shoukd smcheck out my tool videos what I made an old jack into 😉👍 Thanks for watching 😊

Ooh would love a Ghia! Maybe one day. All depends how you want it to drive. The mods in this video will give you a more modern feeling engine, happier to rev and I guess more 'fun' if like giving it beans. If you just like to chug along with a nice torquey setup what you have um sure will do you good service. Let us know how you get on. Best of luck and thanks for watching 😊👍

A quick Google search said this...'In most of the cases, it comes up with a P1251 error code. The fault code itself is due to the turbo over-boosting in the lower load points. Its described as 'failed stepper motor' but its commonly not the case. The electronic actuator failure is the most common issue that cause the error code.' .......I'm not an expert on these modern vehicles but overboost would suggest to me an issue with the boost pressure solenoid which is covered in this very video. I don't want to tell you to do it but if I was going down this route would probably start there. White smoke in my experience of older non turbo vehicles is usually water in the engine and often a head gasket but seems totally unrelated to your problem here. Worth checking the oil filler for lots of yellow snot tho just in case, only takes a minute. I'm not sure how much toyota charge but doubt would be cheap over swapping a few bits but no guarantee it will fix it. We had a similar problem that turned out to be the SVC for the fuel, the old design crystallise and blocks, these aren't cheap or easy to replace... I was told... though. Fuel Pump Suction Control Valves. This cause very poor performance, intermittent on off accelerator and ultimate limp mode till it ground to a halt on the motorway at 1am enroute to our holiday! LOL. Because of that the car was left with a garage while we were away who did the work so I can't help much more with procedure on that one. I don't however remember it smoking but I can't be sure, and again seems unrelated to your error code, just similar symptoms. Hope I've not murkier the waters and caused more confusion? Best of luck. 😊👍

@@PeoplesCar Thanks so much, I've taken a few points down and will have a look. Once I can figure out this niggle, ill definitely update this thread for anyone struggling with this exact same thing.

LOL

That doesn't sound good. What is it not doing? Is the compressor starting when you press the button? Have you got the insulating ring underneath the electrode keeping things apart? If your compressor and 'flame' is working then it's important to keep the tip flat so it doesn't shoot sideways, this destroys the caps in no time and will give a poor cut. You can actually start in the centre of thinner work peices but I wouldn't recommend it unless want spraying in molten steel, so start just off the edge and move onto the steel. You will learn the right speed for different metal thickness and settings tho generally you don't have to turn it up much above half way for all but the thickest metals. Its more about getting a a feel for the speed. When your good metal shoots down through the steel, moving too fast it doesn't cut all the way though and shoots back at your face! I'm still not sure if you have a technical fault or just new, can be a bit scarey at first if your not used to welding etc.

@@PeoplesCar yes insulating ring underneath Electrode air compressor seems very weak when pull trigger

​@@PeoplesCar Also the compressor starts when pull trigger but only stays on for about 6 seconds and goes off

@@PeoplesCar Also the blue light keeps coming on compressor runs like 10seconds the cuts off air

@@martinawdadapterssmith6485 I'll be honest I'm really not sure. The compressor comes on and stays on as soon as start cutting, and stops about 2-3 seconds after stop to cool the tip. You don't have the air valve for external feed open at the back of the machine do you? It should be blowing quite strongly. Not sure if thats in line with the internal compressor.... probably not but just a thought. I assume you have a good earth? That's very important, if on rusty crap need to clean a section back to fresh steel for it. It won't run without the earth (I believe it actually the live as works the opposite to a welder, but could be wrong), or get a false start. Not sure what the blue light means sorry, I don't remember seeing one. I'm not sure what else to suggest other than making sure all your cables are plugged in tight, the 'earth' is a little tricky to screw down with my fat fingers. Sorry. ☹

LOL tx for watching 💀👍

On the right van for deffo 😊👍

Cool 😊👍I'll check it out

It was a decent show. Ask your mum to join Guy at VW Action first weekend of September. You might enjoy it. Have Drag racing there too. They might have to join us tho, only got 5 seats unless I take the bug which wasn't planning this year. 😊👍 oh the music is free on YTstudio you could use on your own videos. I'll try find which track it is for you. 👍

Sounds a cool idea!

It is 👍 Thanks for watching 😊

Any you would recommend that you have used? Tx 😊👍

Ideally yeah, but it's only a tiny bit too small, never caused a problem and the same key I was given 30 years ago so kinda attached to it now 😅

On the previous van I just jacked the engine up a few inches and was an easy job. The engine bar is often all rusty and crusty on the body rail but if that's easier for you as I had to do then it's pretty straight forwards too. Just thr angle on the outside 2 mounts means attaching them first to the engine. Best of luck 😊👍

Tx fella 😊👍

Thanks for the kind feedback. Since making this vid a few have come up in my feed using a pressurised setup which should push coolant to & air out the Rad (tho id still get that nose right up) and look interesting, but not tried them. I just know this works so sticking with it. Had to do it twice last week in the services after losing a coolant pipe on the motorway, not the most of fun and got some funny looks from people thinking I'd crashed trying to exit the carpark over the high kerb, but got us home after found a hose clip that would fit. From now on will carry a spare! 😅 Best of luck 👍

I didn't mention in the video I forgot, but need heater open (to the right) on the dash to avoid an air lock there 😊👍

I like the simple method, & if it works then I’m happy. Thank you

@@stephenrogers9664 Always worked for me. And avoided annoying air locks in the radiator. Need to have you heater in hot/open position too so no air get locked there. Best of luck 👍

Not 100% sure on that one. If your linkage is working as intended without trouble, I can't imagine it's that far out to activate the reverse switch. I'll be honest I'm not sure where that's located exactly as never had to look at one tho believe is at the gearbox end. I'll be under the van tomorrow so have a quick look how it's activated if possible or if can be adjusted itself, so may have a better idea. 😊👍

Have you seen this video? th-cam.com/video/6bJYJ_v88tI/w-d-xo.html I'm planning on going this route rather than the twin dells on the 1835 seennin this video. I may look at building my own cheaper amr copy setup for the rat rod too just for fun, to go on the 1300 I'm less fussy about. 😊👍

@@PeoplesCar Thank you Sir! I’ll watch it tonight 🩵

@@boosTiMon NP 😊👍 Also I noticed your avatar. This playlist may interest you, my earliest videos at the bottom. Not the best quality compared to what do now but feature vids about my STI powered Bug 😊👍

@@PeoplesCar Thanks! I have a 1960 bug I’ve had for almost 30 years. I’m contemplating a swap for it but I also want to put it back together. I had taken all the rubber off it to replace and have it epoxy primed but then it sat for years. I had a shop rebuild my 1600 out of a 1970. I have a new clutch all new brake lines etc etc but want to decide on a swap but then would the stock clutch even work on a swap, stock brakes on a swap be ok? I figured at that point I would have to basically turn it into a race car, upgrade clutch, disk brake conversion… lots of stuff.. What I want is a kind of simple rotary swap N/A with a carb like a Weber. I think that would be a lightweight swap that sounds good, high reving but I would want to start off with a built 13B so I wouldn’t have to worry about its internals breaking like apex seals and have it ported ahead of time.

@@boosTiMon Now this is possibly going to sound odd coming from a guy that has turned his 71 (had it since 94 😉👍) into a rocket ship but not sure I would do it to a 60. I have a 58 I'm going to start building next year all being well and to me it's something precious and only plan subtle mods and staying aircooled. Maybe it's because when I got my bug they were cheap as chips but earlier models even back then were out of my grasp, I'm not sure. Also there is too much power. My 72 is almost unusable anywhere, you just can't use the power it's truely insane to drive and the 5 point harnesses make it a total PITA to jump in and out of 😅 I'm looking forward to an aircooled car I can just jump in enjoy anywhere any time, and not be looking for the next overtake 😅. If your determined, with an N/A scoob motor or something like my first ej22 2.2i, you can fit these relatively simply with minimal cutting, see 2nd vid, just engine trays and your going to be cutting and building a scoop under the front valance if don't want holes in the bonnet fir a Rad. Then just running wires and coolant lines the latter could be done under the car if not mega low. Looking at about 130-140bhp from a 2.2 i believe which is at the absolute limit of what a good condition bug box will take and without heavy drag launches. I was advised many years ago by a top UK builder that 130 is your limit without unreliability if driven with care. In a 60, do you have the original 1200 box? Do you even have syncro think it's changed in 61? Never heard of such an early box used in the conversion. Usually you would need to run a 1600 clutch and a stage 2 pressure plate. For this you would have to clearance the the bellhousing for a late Flywheel which isn't major, or at least wasn't on a 72 1200 never done and early one. Not sure if they are any weaker than later 1200 boxes however. As for brakes if in good condition Drum brakes work as well as later discs, but I remember the first time I got heavy fade coning off a motorway and nearly driving through the island! With a subaru or any big motor you going to be hitting motorway speeds quickly and I think fade is too much of an issue at those speeds, so disc upgrade for sure. I've been running slightly upgraded front stock discs with Talbot calipers (minor upgrade) and 944 rear discs on my bug but have a lot more power than a 2.2i. Currently in the process of a servo upgrade to hopefully improve braking (video soon), but think you should be ok with stock discs up front or maybe consider an after market setup to improve. Its certainly be a weak point in my bug for a while. If i were you I think I'd minimise the project, get it on the road quick and easily as possible, enjoy it for what it is and then if not happy then consider mods. Even a 1600 us fast compared to a 1192cc with simple mods, see recent vid. Sometimes you can bite off more than you can chew with projects and keeping motivation working on something in 1000 bits and seems so far away and with so many head scratching jibs to do, is really hard especially when life is so busy, ask me how I know! Got 2 other projects I've barely touched and struggling to find time on my first bug too! Best of luck with what you decide. Welcome to ask if have any questions I can help with 😊👍

My pleasure thanks for the kind words.😊👍

I'll be honest I don't know of any merged headers that exit where the stock muffler does. Vintage speed have some sexy trick setups but unsure how the gas flows through these, and are quite pricey. Even worse but many of the merged setups sound like poo or look poo also! Kind of annoying. Does anyone know if any gas flowed stock looking setups? Could look at fitting blanks in the valance cut outs and using an under wing setup?

I'll drop him a message for you 😊👍

@@PeoplesCar Thank you!

@@TheEmpressEllaseen ''The front bench seat was done by a friend and the rear one was from a place at Alfreton called sewing shack he's on facebook'' Hope that helps. Not sure if you have seen my T25 playlist, maybe some other useful vids for you there assuming have a T25 (also have vw bug vids in a different playlist). VW T25 Vanagon Transporter! Technical DIY Help Videos & Guides: th-cam.com/play/PLas-bMbyRsgB5ZYru8CfJMUaPeTvXzmDo.html Hopefully see you around I'm local too 😊👍

A mate has visited Centurion in Rotherham who seemed good. But hasn't actually used him. Maybe worth a visit and quote too. 😊👍

I knew someone with a 1300 that used a gas flowed exhaust setup and a stock carb and although he used to rev the engine to within an inch of its life performed very well and was alongside his mates in his 1600 on all but the hills. I don't think it's common to increase carburation for 1300s, I ASSUME as it's not as much of a restriction for fuel/air as 1600, so the gains would be smaller also. So just talking from personal experience I may look at exhaust changes but probably not the carbs, but that's just seeing how bugs have run over the years and my opinion. Also depends how hard you want to rev your motor. Hope that helps 😊👍

Obrigado/grasias amigo 😊👍

Without comparing to another its hard to know how much movement there should be. I remember being shocked at how much a stock bug motor moves compared to the ones I'd had in cars with more solid mounts. I guess if you can feel the engine wobble through the van on tick over then maybe look at doing, when replaced it's much more subtle. Not sure how else to explain it. Hope that helps 😊👍

@@PeoplesCar Agree! Spot on...Mine bangs loudly on tick over ignition. when revving, the engine moves massively. On idle, it wobbles. It is crucial to have good mounts to keep the motion down. The shaking can put stress on parts and wires so its best to perform this work to keep the van from premature failure like fuel lines, wires, etc. My van has the same issue with the exhaust pipe blocking a proper engine lift. The bar/cradle is only 4 bolts so it seems best to support the engine and remove the bar/cradle. My mounts are definitely shot.

@@davidrowe5822 Interesting, so it wasn't just me and my exhaust setup then. Thanks for the feedback and best of luck with the job 😊👍

That is very true! 😊👍

You could use the twin sliders off your original seats or look for a cheap pair of seats that are heavily worn. Like in the vid tho? If looking to fit something more modern and can weld it's just easier to build your own. It's possibly to do it in a way that can be ground off later so original seats can be returned if necessary. Hope the vid gave you some ideas. Thanks for watching 😊👍

Thanks for the kind words and watching :) PS: Sorry for the delay responding. A bunch of comments didn't show on my phone, wasnt till I logged into the PC I could see it! Weird!

My pleasure, thanks for the kind words. Last? Surely you mean latest, projects never end when you have the bug 😳😅👍

Yeah I agree, love the low down grunt from bigger motors! :) PS: Sorry for the delay responding. A bunch of comments didn't show or reply on my phone, wasn't till I logged into the PC I could see it! Weird!

Awesome! Glad it helped 😊👍

Really wow. Are the scat carbs bases on Dells or Webbers or their own design? Do you know what was changed in the setup that changed the icing issue? Many thanks 😊👍

@PeoplesCar based on webber I believe, fuel air mix was way off, needed full adjustment

@@smerd1 crazy, first time I've heard of that in I assume a moderate climate. Its cold here but not seen that b4. Trying to work out which would be worse, a lean setup or rich setup. Anyone know? I know my van was rich and that iced with my custom seup in cold temps, but not sure if leaning it out would have helped? Tx for the info 😊👍

It's all I use as a sealant on engines. 😊👍

Cool, glad you liked them. They are bearings 😊👍

I just did a quick search and no I don't thing they did here in the UK. 👍

No problem 👍 I'm curious to know if my exhaust issue was unique to my van or the same for all later T25's (I'm assuming VW were cleverer that that lol). Would appreciate some feedback if it's not too much trouble? Best of luck 😊👍

Fingers crossed will sort the problem for you, best of luck 😊👍

I believe it will work with any aircooled engine that has a removable alt/geni pedestal, but not with the early engines where it is cast as part of the crankcase. I imagine these are rare however, being pre 58 I believe. If your not sure then I'm sure Kompressor Haus will be able to advise, but yiu should be good afaik. 😊👍

@@PeoplesCar Thank you Sir!

I'm trying buddy, we might need an army of dubbers tho 😅👍

Stinger is going to be loud! LOL You can actually buy a baffle for them though that make them sensible. I believe are illigal here in the uk, probably for noise db but also because the protrude out the back of the car. I know of a coupe of people that have had trouble with the fuzz! LOL How did you get on with the Empi street curve? Thanks for watching :) PS: Sorry for the delay responding. A bunch of comments didn't show or reply on my phone, wasn't till I logged into the PC I could see it! Weird!

Wait to see how mine works first! Total experiment and might go Pete Tong! 😅 Concerned about over braking the light front so fitting a bias valve too, would be done by now but the first valve turned up faulty! What brakes are you running?

@@PeoplesCar Stock fronts and 914 rear discs with Golf mk4 calipers. Bias has been good. I'll watch with interest.

@@djambrosia 914 rear never seen that conversion. I have a 944 hub somewhere converted to 4 stud with flange from a 914 hub, so I could fit 8.5'' bug 4 stud Wolfrace Slots on 944 IRS conversion. That crazy idea didn't quite work as interfered with the handbrake mech and then dropped on a cheap set of teledials so remains and unfinished mod! 😅

LOL yeah I guess so. My car is made of washing machines and all sorts 😅 Thought it was quite funny tbh and now it's my spare angle grinder nut again 😊👍

My pleasure thanks for watching and for the kind feedback 😊👍