I much prefer brown shoes to black, which one can find in a whole variety of shades, and can be worn with a suit, with a sport coat or blazer, or even with dark washed denim. (If I almost never wear black shoes, why would I need to own more than a single pair?) Yes, black is more formal, and would be considered a more appropriate choice for weddings, funerals, court appearances, job interviews, etc. -Of course, I've seen people at weddings and funerals wearing tennis shoes or sandals, so it's getting increasingly difficult for anyone to claim that brown cap-toed oxfords are "too casual". At this point in time, I'm happy to see men wearing ANY dress shoes, as opposed to the sneakers, crocs, flip flops, and slip-ons that one sees everywhere. Excellent advice, Ash, and a very good summary of the advantages and pitfalls of each colour choice.
As a female viewer on my opinion is always nice to seeing a gentleman wearing a good and polished pair of shoes 👞. 😊 fitting their clothes. I’m sharing this videos with my husband. Thank you
Excellent. That's exactly what I needed. Thank you. Now that I am pushing 70, I decided to splurge and ordered a pair of burgundy shell cordovan wingtips which I'm sure will outlive me. I always loved burgundy. I had a pair of burgundy loafers for years which I seldom wear. I really should wear them more often. I don't want them to outlive me.
I recently visited Jermyn Street and bought a pair of dark oxblood brogues by Loake. Indeed this is like the best of both worlds. Thanks for another excellent video! Alex
For most of my life, black was always my default first choice. But now that I'm retired, I have taken a look at what I usually wear and decided that brown is a much more appropriate choice for most of my outfits, as I am usually more casual these days. Of course, I still have some black shoes, but when I get up in the morning, brown shoes or boots are the usual choice. Now, brown is my first choice when getting new footwear, with black as a second choice.
I was always instructed to wear black shoes with blue, grey, black and navy. Brown with tans, greens, brown and beige. When this trend started wearing brown shoes with navy, gray and yes black, I wanted to walk up to the individual and ask, at times scream, “what’s wrong with you”. I have since settled down a tad but I’m still appalled. Maybe I’ll get over someday but it won’t be anytime soon.
Like you said, it really depends on where you go. Even if I meet with an architect downtown Chicago, black rarely fits in. My brown bluchers need a new set of heals on the other hand as I wear them so much more often. I'll admit, my black cap-toes are my favorite.
I think it comes down to formality. What I've noticed, we seem to be moving towards the lax side of fashion scale.... hence more business casual wear, just my two cents
I'm a Chartered Surveyor and if I'm wearing a suit, it's black Oxfords (mirror shined with parade gloss), but if I'm "on the tools", when I'll have a shirt and tie on with a pair of slacks (or smart jeans or chinos if it's going to be muddy) I can be anywhere, unless I have black safety boots on, I wear brown, either brogues or a pair of Brashers in case I've got some distance to walk.
Good morning Ash. I recently went to see the Swan Lake ballet at the Manchester Palace theatre. I was disheartened to see that most of the audience was dressed in casual and sporty wear. The man next to me was wearing track suit pants, dirty trainers and a Bart Simpson t-shirt. The times may be changing but I’ll maintain my own standards! Ps. There is an interesting shoe maker down the road from me called lanx worth taking a look at. Lovely selection.
Arguably, it is great that people are still going to see a ballet, regardless of their attire, and not limit their range to a bucket of popcorn and Avatar. I saw a Czech Philharmonic´s concert here in Prague last night. I was slightly under dressed too, although still black shoes and mostly grey tones. I am happy to say that there were no people in track suits. A couple of absent minded artists types in sweaters though😀 The main star, the violinist, sported a black T-shirt under his suite. Violins and formal collars may not work well together or it was the fact that he was just around 30 years old.
When I was 20, in the 90's as a junior trader, senior traders told me that in the city of london, squaremile, people used to say "Don't trust a guy with a brown shoes" . It took me 30 years to buy brown oxford shoes 😁
Brilliant as usual. Thank you. In Italy brown is considered well suited for business attire, too. At least in the warmer season. Brown shoes are frequently used with dark grey or dark blue suits.
Most men still have one or two pairs of shoes they wear into the ground before getting another pair. I think this practice goes back to the times of the Industrial Revolution and the mass production of shoes that started around Northampton in the mid to late 19th century. The main difference is that, just like hats, actual shoes are not required in most situations nowadays. Since they were back in the day, black offered the most versatility and scratches and scuffs could be easily mended at home (besides, there was a lot of black “matter” available freely in those days, from chimney soot to tar). Thank you, Ash!
Great advice Ash. I've tried to assemble a balanced collection of shoes. In the colours and shades you described. Which gives me a large range of options when choosing my outfit. I too love the look of a burgundy full brouge and equally a black oxford. So I tend to choose some outfits solely on the shoes I wish to wear.
Today I wear my black Calvin Klein Brand suit and white Dress shirt paired with grey pattern brook Tarvener waistcoat and blue silk tie with red silk pocket square and bruno marc black derby dress shoes and my black bowler added my knight's cross and ribbon left chest as well as neck
Wearing any all black colored footwear looks bad with all shades of blue jeans. I can't believe I used to do that. However, the black Adidas Samba with white stripes might be o.k. But I don't do that either anymore.
I am an internship, and I am working for an international commence firm from China. I love your videos, because I've learnt about not only the dress code, but also the interpretation and choices of words. You are amazing! Subscribed and thumb-up-ed.
I agree with you about burgundy shoes, Ash! I have a brown Prince of Wales plaid suit that I pair up with burgundy shoes; I think it's a much more elegant look than a pair of brown shoes.
While watching this video, I purchased a pair of lovely burgundy half brogue oxfords to sit between my black captoe oxfords and my brown wingtip bluchers, a nice 3-shoe lineup.
Good Morning Ash I think the best option for my Brogue shoe purchase would be a Mid Brown colour full Brogue and perhaps a Black semi Brogue for formal occasions. Thanks for your advice.
I have one pair of black, cap toe oxfords and they live in the bottom of the wardrobe until someone dies! On your sound advice, I have several pairs of brown brogues. Cheers, Ash.
As I am revamping my shoe collection and have shifted to Made to Order (MTO), my last two purchases were in Bordeaux and very Dark Brown. I wanted something to break out of the standard Black and Tan options. Because they still read as conservative, people have commented about them because they are not the standard uniform colors and asked if they were custom.
Hi Ash,your shoe videos are the best!!! great ideas for the well dressed chap.i have over 30 pairs of shoes Loake & Cheaney,I own 1 pair of cheaney balmoral boots in black but my main colours are tan,Dk brown and burgandy!!! black is for accessions that I need to wear.thanks for a great video once again.
Great posting, Ash. You are right about the popularity of brown shoes. It's good that people challenge accepted norms. I suspect their increased favourability has gone hand in hand with the greater level of informality of dress code in a work and social environment. The WFH culture will no doubt have seen a drop off in use and sales of all types and colours of `formal' shoe. Personally - and that is all it is - I tend to wear brown shoes if I am wearing a shade of brown attire, which will always be casual in nature. My ox blood brogues, however, have a special place because of their versatility across different colours of clothing. when it comes to my black, grey or dark blue suits, it is always black cap Oxfords for me. Each to his own.
I stick to a simple rule that I read in a little men's fashion book from the local library some time ago: black shoes after five and dark suits; gold cuff-links during the day, silver in the evening.
In order of formality-Black, burgundy or darker brown, lighter brown/suede. I try to keep one pair of black broughs or dress boots and a decent pair of dark brown or burgundy. Light brown or suede is reserved strictly for casual/knocking around.
As I Live in New York and use the subway regularly, black shoes feel like the only natural choice, although 90% of people around me seem to wear white sneakers year-round. Most people who wear dress shoes choose brown, but to me, personally, black dress shoes feel natural in such an extremely urban setting, as New York. That being said, May through October I do wear brown and tan shoes. The weather between May and October in New York is very warm and sunny, and thus, dark clothes and black shoes do not feel natural. However, if I choose to wear a dark suit, even in the height of summer, I always wear black shoes. Also, I disagree that “black = formal”. It doesn’t have to. A full brogue wingtip is by definition more casual than a cap-toe Oxford. A pair of black full-brogue wingtips can look great with gray flannel trousers and a sweater and/or a pea coat (or blazer) for a business-casual look, or can even be worn with a pair of dark charcoal or black five-pocket pants and a dark sport-shirt for a casual urban look that will feel equally great in an office that doesn’t require a formal dress-code, as it will at a night club. So, black doesn’t mean formal and brown doesn’t automatically mean “casual”.
I certainly feel that black *is* the one "colour" for anything even remotely formal but given that I very rarely wear black as predominant colour in my suits and combinations - yes it works fine with grey suits (which, boring as I am, is the majority of my suits, though with one exception all either light or patterned grey) but with all my greys I've come to prefer the same option as you: Burgundy or Ox-blood works with almost anything and can display a vast variety of formality. Brown I feel works truly only with blues (which *are* a fairly common set of colours, so not much of a problem here, but wait! =>) but of course require *variation* or browns which are absolutely more casual. Dark brown might move more into the formal varieties, but I feel it's... always somewhat wrong, too warm for cold darker suits, too cold cold for the softer browns or blues of the informal range. Make no mistake, I spend most of the summer with lighter brown shoes since I wear a lot of Linen and cotton (on a side-note: does anybody else thing that coconut buttons just are to *best* for Linen jackets or am I just a bit weird?😆) in the summer months (' gets annoyingly hot here for two or three months a year) and it goes lovely with those, but for the rest of the year they spend most of their time locked away since they are so completely inappropriate for really *anything else.* What this boils down to is this: listen to Mr. Jones people - Burgundy *is awesome!* 😃 And it's slowly arriving in the dress shoe market and even reaching out into the, erm, "comfort shoes" market which really is more of a niche than I feel it is because I work a lot with those. Heck, we even build more and more *orthopaedic shoes* (still a small number but it's getting more) in Ox-blood or Burgundy variations for the simple reasons that if you only have three pairs of wearable shoes and you get on in black and for homewear some form of brown until recently most people got another pair of blacks but now fairly often they choose a very dark red, for simple reason that it works with everything. If I should put it in an age bracket it's the shoes we build for the 30s-60s-ish customers, the elder mostly want black and dark brown and many of the younger often have no taste whatsover but hey, they get a new pair every year, it might get better...😉. That is unless they make us add white diagonal stripes to the shoes... 🤣/🤮 Best regards Raoul G. Kunz
I wore black or burgundy for decades,just recently have been wearing brown in the warmer months.Of course,it depends what colours I am wearing them with,clotheswise
A look in the closet shows, all Allen Edmonds; Dress shoes 2- black 1- tan & 1- chili. Casual shoes; 1- black 3- brown (various style/brogue). I was always taught "no brown in town" but that seems to be changing.
As mentioned, black is necessary to have but I find I always gravitate to some shade of brown. I feel like brown just has more character. Especially with a matching belt and blue suits or slacks. I only wear black with black or grey suits.
Great video, Ash. I would enjoy seeing a shoe closet tour video. I agree with you on burgundy/oxblood looking dapper. I'm considering purchasing a Color 8 dress boot to provide more versatility.
Ash I think every one should have one pair of black cap toe oxfords. I own a pair of Allen Edmonds 5th avenues. The other 14 or so shoes are various shades of brown. I am currently looking for a burgady pair of wing tip Borges. Cheers Ron
I knew you were going to finish with burgandy. I have a pair of that colour and a pair of oxbloods. they seem to have become my go to's these days. Go with just about anything.
Very good video Ash. I have black, brown and shades of brown, navy blue and burgundy shoes. Oxfords and Derbys shoes. I would like to see a video about socks. Thanks.
Sartorial norms likely vary regionally. For example, in Boston, black shoes have historically been worn only with formal dress; brown shoes are worn in all other instances. More recently, that protocol (as with many other protocols) is sliding into abeyance.
Black with a charcoal grey or black suit; brown, tan or (perhaps controversially) ox-blood with lighter grey or blue suit. I also have 2 pairs of blue brogues, but I never wear them with a suit.
I've always worn brown shoes for work and special occasions. Recently, I went to shoe shop and saw a black pair of shoes and purchased them. I like both colours.
Another fantastic video Ash. Thank you so much. It is always interesting to evaluate your advice and figure out how much it fits to my own journey to chap nirvana. My father wore black dress shoes to the office all his work life. He never tried brown ones. I was influenced by that and followed suit for over two decades. It took me until last year to try a mid-brown dress shoe. I enjoy it very much and it is more versatile as black. I wish I had made this step much earlier in life. I wear three pairs in rotation (two black and one brown). I will change this to two brown and one black pair.
Black loafers are probably the ideal black shoe that can be dressed down, and also can look quite good with a bit of distressing and even a bit "beaten up". Pair with blue Jeans and you get a classic James Dean / Steve McQueen cool.
Being color blind I was taught basically the same thing at a young age. Brown shoes only for tan or blue bottom clothing. You can also pair with a blue or tan style suit. What you did not mention was anything on watch pairing. I try to always try to match my watch strap the shoe color. Where it gets weird for me is metal band watches. For me they don’t pair well with suits, tuxedos or even slacks with just a vest. I also never wear a metal band unless I have on a long sleeve shirt on to prevent scratching the bracelet. It looks weird on any short sleeve. Metal for me pairs with any business or business casual long sleeve shirt. Maybe with a sports coat might be okay as it’s more casual. I know metal sports watches on metal bracelets started becoming the norm on suits at some point, it just usually looks a bit weird. Is there certain color suits that’s it’s a “avoid” scenario in your opinion for metal bracelets? Or maybe just certain style metal bracelet watches to avoid pairing with a suit? I Ike oversized divers that don’t let the sleeve slide over it well? Nice video! Thanks!
Ash, love this video. I agree with you about brown shoes! I have fallen in love with the deeper brown, actually what would be called oxblood or burgundy. They are so versatile with my chinos and jeans. I want to thank you for your channel and the excellent work you are doing. I have learned so much, and even more than that, have been motivated by you to dress with class to be an example to my students at school and my family. Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!!
Great video Ash as always. Although t noted at around 4 mins you mentioned Black Toe cap Oxford then showed a picture of a Derby. Is the a nod to the “Kingsman” error 😂
Surely the colour of your shoes depends entirely on the colour of your trousers/suit, so you really should have both in your shoe cupboard. I have black, dark brown, oxblood and mid Tan brogues and they all have their place.
Nice advice Ash. I have one pair of black Oxfords I would wear with my navy suit for formal events like wedding or funeral, sometime I would pair it with my navy chino if I want to be casual. I have a mid brown loafer which I pair with jeans and chino. I would like a ox blood derby one day but I already have a derby shoe in a cool navy nubuck.
I am going to London next week and probably will have to investigate some boots in burgundy color. I am sure watching your videos will cost me a fortune.
Love the channel Ash! I’m getting ready to invest in a pair of Allen Edmonds and I’m going to select a black wingtip. I’m hopeful that they will fit in most situations. I’ve got a pair of capped toe oxfords in a nice burgundy but it’s time to add another pair of shoes to the fleet.
When getting into the suit or dress up culture , flat out start with the black shoe. As he pointed out the luster after a polishing is just unbeatable and you won’t have regrets , you just cannot dress it down. I made the mistake of purchasing brown first and when I finally got around to black , it is now what I wear most . You cannot go wrong with black dress shoes as they are a default . Some may turn the nose up at what I’m about to say which is you can wear a black full brogue with a suit, which you can. ,just not to a black tie. A black full brogue is more or less the sneaker/trainer of dress shoes hence the wing tip design which trainers often share.
Greetings and Salutations from Smiths Falls, Ontario Canada Ash. I agree with your assessment on ox-blood/burgundy colours. Had a question for you however, regarding neckwear. Much like your wife I woud presume, I'm not a fan of cravats or ascots (unless it's an ascot-style felt cap). I am however, enamoured with the cumber tie. It was a style popularized in my memory from the 1950's-60's by such luminaries as American musician Ray Charles. Often worn with a jewelled pin in the center. Do you have any idea, other than thrift shop type stores, where one might be able to obtain such treasure? Thank you for your opinions and outlooks on "Chapness". To paraphrase you, this world I believe needs more gents who "cut a dash"..."look pin sharp" and "work a treat". Warmest regards, and salut to you sir, Steve.
Sir, you have caught me at a disadvantage, as I am unfamiliar with the neck adornment that you have mentioned. I have researched the item in my own library of style books and have investigated via the internet to no avail. I might suggest that the tie is an abbreviated version of the cravat, but it is not something, for which there is any record anywhere I have searched to date. I will continue to delve further and may even make a video if I can find enough information.
@@TheChapsGuide I think the gentleman is refering to the "continental tie". There are a number of photographs of Elvis Presley and Ray Charles wearing it. Also if you search for (I can't leave links here) "Gentleman's Gazette, continental tie" you'll come with something. Also this here: "How to wear a Crossover tie (continental tie) 10ways" on TH-cam, plus a number of subsequent videos. th-cam.com/video/R0I26sZJ5Nk/w-d-xo.html
Hello Mr. McWade, It's called the "continental tie" and (according to the "Gentleman's Gazette") it should be available from some "western-themed retailers", but I hae just checked on Ebay: it's obtainable from 7.91 GBP.
@@adrianwalker2833 Thank you sir. I too have since found out it's called a Bulldogger Tie, part of the continental tie family and is available online. A smart retro acoutrement in my opinion, that I hope to acquire quite soon.
Speaking as someone aged 30 and attending a lot of countryside weddings that are almost never set at churches in any way, brown is a go-to. Though I favour double monks in dark brown as EVERY man usually falls into a light tan. I personally enjoy odd/separate suits, and having worked in a hotel for years, I try to avoid black. Though I picked up some Joseph Cheaneys Chelsea boots in black for a sweet deal. I might end up the other way sooner than not
I remember reading a highly entertaining newspaper column by an etiquette guru (some years ago in fairness) where he opined that one should, basically, only wear brown shoes or boots when in the country; that one should never wear "brown in town". He did, however, concede that it is not an absolute rule on Fridays - the rationale being that one might be leaving early for a weekend at one's place in the country! I swear I'm not making that up - he literally wrote that! Personally I live 'in the country' anyway, and I wear what the monkeys I feel like - black, brown, or (occasionally in the summer) blue suede.🤠
Hello Ash. Would you possibly consider making a presentation on good financial management skills for gentlemen that will help them with the affordability of quality clothing and accessories, maybe reflecting on your own personal journey and habits. If this a topic within the scope of your interest?
It's always black shoes for business dress and brown for when you're 'off duty'. It's increasingly claimed to be elitist that certain firms within certain professions expect black shoes and that somehow the working class are discriminated against by turning up in brown shoes for job interviews. However, I grew up in a deprived Northern costal town where you only had one pair of shoes and so made sure that they were black, so that they could be worn for every occasion - a brown pair was a luxury and showed that you were able to own more than one pair of shoes, including pairs that had more of a niche application. These days I have more brown pairs than black, but I'd still wear black with a suit for work and I wore black shoes on my wedding day.
Same here. I owned one pair of black shoes until I was in my teens. These were for school, cadets and social events. When they became shabby, they became my play shoes (ie. For every other application). I think I only ever owned 2 pairs of shoes at any given time until I joined the military.
So have 3 pairs of black shoes. But I find that black shoes look weird with a navy suit. I have never liked blue and black. I think brown shoes have way more variety and generally match more colors.
I wear my black brogues with black Levi jeans. The jeans are cuffed. Only after 6:30pm of course. What are other trouser styles to wear with black brogues?
Anything in grey will work with black brogues. Grey flannel, grey denim, grey tweed. Odd trousers in a predominantly grey or black and white Prince of Wales check or Glenurquhart check, also dog tooth or puppytooth were very popular in the 60s and 70s with black brogues or black loafers.
Well you have caused me a problem. I was invited to a wedding in Madrid at noon in a garden and I had considered a not so formal attire such as a double breasted blue suit with brown shoes (I had considered a linen light colored suit but as I am arriving at Madrid the very same wedding day it won't be possible to iron it properly) but since you have mentioned several times that weddings are formal occasions and black shoes must be worn, now I am not sure that my original choice is right. What would you suggest? Very interesting and informative video. Congratulations.
It really depends on the tempo of the wedding - if morning dress is being worn by the principal males, I would defer to quite formal dress, but if the groom is going casual, I would follow suit (literally).
Good morning Sirs. I visit the Loake shoe shop in Nottingham, you all must visit and maybe Ash could do a video of a visit, avery nice shop,leather seating etc with excellant staff, Where I purchase a pair of Lytham oxblood grain, 1880 chukka boot. Been saving up for them! Why! well 3 reasons 1) Whatchting the Chaps guide and with Ash show caseing a colour I would have never have thought off. 2) Having owning a few pairs of tan/brown shoes and boots it would be a useful addition colour platte in my shoes. 3) I saw a young gentleman wearing a pair and beening rather forward I saked him about what were his shoes. So many thanks to Ash and to Ben at Brigdens, in Burton on Trent,yet another place worth a visit and maybe a visit from Ash?
@@TheChapsGuide All down to your excellant advice and have since been told of Smalleys at 54 Derby St, Nottingham is a Gentlemen's menswear shop. After whatching the two very short youTube clips, I have put it down as a place to visit. All the best and keep up with the great content that you do.
What is your opinion on navy blue suit with black cap-toe oxfords? Usually everyone says that you shouldn't combine blue with black. Cheers for the video.
Brown shoes are beautiful.....but the big problem is that they show scuffs and scratches pretty soon. On the contrary, black shoes can remain impeccable for a long, long time if properly taken care of. In the end, black shoes are far more durable since they don´t show wear and tear as prematurely as brown shoes.
Whenever I wear a suit I always find myself gravitating towards my black dress shoes, sometimes dark brown. But usually I don't go lighter than that. For me a pair of tan or light brown shoes just draw too much attention to the feet in an otherwise darker ensemble. On the other hand, when it comes to casual ensembles with chinos I find black dress shoes usually look out of place, even with darker trousers.
Americans have long had the peculiar habit of wearing quite light brown shoes with blue suits in even the most formal of environments. And I suppose the predominance of American made entertainment people absorb has led to the idea gaining traction here in Blighty. Being old school I'd still go with the rules set by the kate, as opposed to those of the per ardua and seafaring crowd. So black for the city, evening eating, and funerals, and brown for the country, or less formal settings. Probably ok for a country mouse going up to London for clobber to be brown. Light tan shoes with a business suit, Ughhhhhhhhh :)
Hello Sir! As a young student I cannot currently afford a lot of different pairs of footwear, so it is obvious to have the most versatile options. And here brown comes as truly the most versatile. Not as hard to maintain as white (I think that cleaning white sneakers everyday is pure pain) and it is not as formal and somber as black. Perfectly suits my smart casual style. And here I would like to ask you a question, sir. What are your thoughts on having some pieces of clothes that express your nationality or ethnicity? Can such garments and hats be worn on daily basis or they better be left for special national festivals? As for me, I have a linen peaked cap of style that was very popular and common in my country 60 - 100 years ago. And I was wearing it during last summer and early autumn. It quickly became one of my favourite pieces and got a lot of compliments. Now I'm looking for similar garments with national motives to incorporate into my personal style. Looking forward for your response, Ash! Boris
A good question. I would have to say I think that wearing nationality focused items is a good idea, as long as it does not come across as too much of a pastiche of one's nationality and is also appropriate for the situation. As an example, the Bowler hat is often seen as a very traditionally British item, but if I wore one with jeans and t-shirt I would look criminally insane! So wear your national dress with pride, but with careful consideration.
I wonder how many ex- RAF/ R AUX AF still have at least one pair immaculate shoes they used to wear with their no 1 uniform ? Mine are over twenty years old .
Black shoes can be dressed down.........the wingtip. When we were kids we used to wear black wingtips with jeans and leather jackets. It looked spiffy.
Hello Ash, What are your thoughts on the heel rubber wedge replacement. I have realised over the years the this heel wedge rubber is the only thing that deteriroates and the rest of the leather sole seems still okay. And when you approach the shoe companies they dont just replace the heel rubber wedge but we have to pay for the complete resole of the sole. I am not sure if i agree with this but do we have a choice? What are your thoughts on this issue??
A little question I'd like to ask. Whilst visiting my local Loake shop, the man who works there and I were having a chat about the Kingsman films. He said about how the quote "oxfords not brogues" makes no sense. Do you agree?
I have been worrying about the strange boutonnière you were wearing in the top button hole of your blazer. I was beginning to think you had lost it completely. It took me a while to realise it was a hairy microphone. 😂
My only black shoe is an 1980's Allen Edmonds full brogue. Please explain, black is formal, brogues are casual. When do you go for a black full brogue?
I am attending one of my best friends’ Golden wedding this month, I shall be wearing a light grey three piece suit a with Bally Bordeaux moccasins . I have always used Bordeaux shoe cream over the years and as you say they are now very dark. I have a similar pair of moccasins by R&B in black but on this occasion I shall prefer brown. It will be more of a house party to be honest, no out of doors element. I know that you are a wristwatch chap, as am I, so you may not be surprised to learn that the first thing that I will put on is my favourite vintage gold watch.
@@velviaman3206 A bit of a tricky question given the parameters. What is the dress code place for the wedding? Is it a traditional wedding dress code or an alternate style? Weddings are a formal event that calls for black oxfords. Black, brown and oxblood shoes go with grey suites. If a black cap toe is not possible go with the most formal looking of your moccasins the black R&B. In lists of the first group of dress shoes a man should own the first is a black cap-toe Oxfords for the events that only it will do for as in weddings, funereal and formal business.
Could be a US/UK cultural difference, but to me, shoe color has more to do with suit color than formality. Black suit = black shoes. Any shade of grey suit = black or oxblood Navy suit = dark brown or oxblood Medium grey suit = dark brown, light brown, or oxblood. Where oxfords are classier than derbies, and cap toes are classier than shoes with brogue.
Brilliantly said. Thank you for talking up black shoes. People have been convinced that black shoes are boring. When they were the majority of the shoes men wore, well-dressed people liked to stand out by wearing brown and burgundy shoes. Now the black shoe is a sign of good taste. Black may not have the interest of brown, but the power of the black shoe has been forgotten. I rarely see black shoes, and people are wearing light walnut brown shoes with everything, even black suits and trousers. Light brown shoes look beautiful on their own, but they don't coordinate well, as you say. The mirror shine is what makes black shoes beautiful.
I much prefer brown shoes to black, which one can find in a whole variety of shades, and can be worn with a suit, with a sport coat or blazer, or even with dark washed denim. (If I almost never wear black shoes, why would I need to own more than a single pair?)
Yes, black is more formal, and would be considered a more appropriate choice for weddings, funerals, court appearances, job interviews, etc. -Of course, I've seen people at weddings and funerals wearing tennis shoes or sandals, so it's getting increasingly difficult for anyone to claim that brown cap-toed oxfords are "too casual".
At this point in time, I'm happy to see men wearing ANY dress shoes, as opposed to the sneakers, crocs, flip flops, and slip-ons that one sees everywhere.
Excellent advice, Ash, and a very good summary of the advantages and pitfalls of each colour choice.
A crisp white shirt,grey wool trousers and black shoes is a great winter style.
As a female viewer on my opinion is always nice to seeing a gentleman wearing a good and polished pair of shoes 👞. 😊 fitting their clothes. I’m sharing this videos with my husband. Thank you
Thanks for sharing!!
Excellent. That's exactly what I needed. Thank you. Now that I am pushing 70, I decided to splurge and ordered a pair of burgundy shell cordovan wingtips which I'm sure will outlive me. I always loved burgundy. I had a pair of burgundy loafers for years which I seldom wear. I really should wear them more often. I don't want them to outlive me.
I recently visited Jermyn Street and bought a pair of dark oxblood brogues by Loake. Indeed this is like the best of both worlds.
Thanks for another excellent video! Alex
For most of my life, black was always my default first choice. But now that I'm retired, I have taken a look at what I usually wear and decided that brown is a much more appropriate choice for most of my outfits, as I am usually more casual these days. Of course, I still have some black shoes, but when I get up in the morning, brown shoes or boots are the usual choice. Now, brown is my first choice when getting new footwear, with black as a second choice.
I was always instructed to wear black shoes with blue, grey, black and navy. Brown with tans, greens, brown and beige. When this trend started wearing brown shoes with navy, gray and yes black, I wanted to walk up to the individual and ask, at times scream, “what’s wrong with you”. I have since settled down a tad but I’m still appalled. Maybe I’ll get over someday but it won’t be anytime soon.
Like you said, it really depends on where you go. Even if I meet with an architect downtown Chicago, black rarely fits in. My brown bluchers need a new set of heals on the other hand as I wear them so much more often. I'll admit, my black cap-toes are my favorite.
I think it comes down to formality. What I've noticed, we seem to be moving towards the lax side of fashion scale.... hence more business casual wear, just my two cents
I'm a Chartered Surveyor and if I'm wearing a suit, it's black Oxfords (mirror shined with parade gloss), but if I'm "on the tools", when I'll have a shirt and tie on with a pair of slacks (or smart jeans or chinos if it's going to be muddy) I can be anywhere, unless I have black safety boots on, I wear brown, either brogues or a pair of Brashers in case I've got some distance to walk.
Good morning Ash. I recently went to see the Swan Lake ballet at the Manchester Palace theatre. I was disheartened to see that most of the audience was dressed in casual and sporty wear. The man next to me was wearing track suit pants, dirty trainers and a Bart Simpson t-shirt. The times may be changing but I’ll maintain my own standards!
Ps. There is an interesting shoe maker down the road from me called lanx worth taking a look at. Lovely selection.
It is a sad indictment of the times. I will investigate Lanx - many thanks, Ash
Good on you for having some decorum. One can only hope the person you sat next to felt underdressed for the occasion and will try better next time.
Arguably, it is great that people are still going to see a ballet, regardless of their attire, and not limit their range to a bucket of popcorn and Avatar. I saw a Czech Philharmonic´s concert here in Prague last night. I was slightly under dressed too, although still black shoes and mostly grey tones. I am happy to say that there were no people in track suits. A couple of absent minded artists types in sweaters though😀
The main star, the violinist, sported a black T-shirt under his suite. Violins and formal collars may not work well together or it was the fact that he was just around 30 years old.
When I was 20, in the 90's as a junior trader, senior traders told me that in the city of london, squaremile, people used to say "Don't trust a guy with a brown shoes" . It took me 30 years to buy brown oxford shoes 😁
I even heard “don’t wear brown in town”. Interesting!
I believe who wears a blue suit which is not in a very dark blue should (!) wear brown or burgundy shoes.
Brilliant as usual. Thank you. In Italy brown is considered well suited for business attire, too. At least in the warmer season. Brown shoes are frequently used with dark grey or dark blue suits.
Most men still have one or two pairs of shoes they wear into the ground before getting another pair. I think this practice goes back to the times of the Industrial Revolution and the mass production of shoes that started around Northampton in the mid to late 19th century. The main difference is that, just like hats, actual shoes are not required in most situations nowadays. Since they were back in the day, black offered the most versatility and scratches and scuffs could be easily mended at home (besides, there was a lot of black “matter” available freely in those days, from chimney soot to tar). Thank you, Ash!
In theb90s everything was about black, you might get a pass on burgundy.
Great advice Ash. I've tried to assemble a balanced collection of shoes. In the colours and shades you described. Which gives me a large range of options when choosing my outfit. I too love the look of a burgundy full brouge and equally a black oxford. So I tend to choose some outfits solely on the shoes I wish to wear.
Today I wear my black Calvin Klein Brand suit and white Dress shirt paired with grey pattern brook Tarvener waistcoat and blue silk tie with red silk pocket square and bruno marc black derby dress shoes and my black bowler added my knight's cross and ribbon left chest as well as neck
Wearing any all black colored footwear looks bad with all shades of blue jeans. I can't believe I used to do that. However, the black Adidas Samba with white stripes might be o.k. But I don't do that either anymore.
I am an internship, and I am working for an international commence firm from China. I love your videos, because I've learnt about not only the dress code, but also the interpretation and choices of words. You are amazing! Subscribed and thumb-up-ed.
Hello Ash, I agree! I tend to reach out for my dark chilli derby’s more often than my tan and black oxford’s. They fit most of my clothes.
I agree with you about burgundy shoes, Ash! I have a brown Prince of Wales plaid suit that I pair up with burgundy shoes; I think it's a much more elegant look than a pair of brown shoes.
While watching this video, I purchased a pair of lovely burgundy half brogue oxfords to sit between my black captoe oxfords and my brown wingtip bluchers, a nice 3-shoe lineup.
Great choice
Black, The Patricians choice 👌
I would like to push back on this. Black shoes are the working man's choice. Brown is never appropriate for business, are they?
Good Morning Ash I think the best option for my Brogue shoe purchase would be a Mid Brown colour full Brogue and perhaps a Black semi Brogue for formal occasions. Thanks for your advice.
I have one pair of black, cap toe oxfords and they live in the bottom of the wardrobe until someone dies! On your sound advice, I have several pairs of brown brogues. Cheers, Ash.
Both, depending on my mood and how formal I wish to be. But ultimately, I like brown better. It's more casual and more versatile
As I am revamping my shoe collection and have shifted to Made to Order (MTO), my last two purchases were in Bordeaux and very Dark Brown. I wanted something to break out of the standard Black and Tan options. Because they still read as conservative, people have commented about them because they are not the standard uniform colors and asked if they were custom.
Boots and footwear videos are the best. Please make a similar video on boots and their various styles, including your top 3 picks and brands
Hi Ash,your shoe videos are the best!!! great ideas for the well dressed chap.i have over 30 pairs of shoes Loake & Cheaney,I own 1 pair of cheaney balmoral boots in black but my main colours are tan,Dk brown and burgandy!!! black is for accessions that I need to wear.thanks for a great video once again.
Great posting, Ash. You are right about the popularity of brown shoes. It's good that people challenge accepted norms. I suspect their increased favourability has gone hand in hand with the greater level of informality of dress code in a work and social environment. The WFH culture will no doubt have seen a drop off in use and sales of all types and colours of `formal' shoe. Personally - and that is all it is - I tend to wear brown shoes if I am wearing a shade of brown attire, which will always be casual in nature. My ox blood brogues, however, have a special place because of their versatility across different colours of clothing. when it comes to my black, grey or dark blue suits, it is always black cap Oxfords for me. Each to his own.
I stick to a simple rule that I read in a little men's fashion book from the local library some time ago: black shoes after five and dark suits; gold cuff-links during the day, silver in the evening.
In order of formality-Black, burgundy or darker brown, lighter brown/suede. I try to keep one pair of black broughs or dress boots and a decent pair of dark brown or burgundy. Light brown or suede is reserved strictly for casual/knocking around.
Thanks for the video.
IMHO (Dark) brown is the new black, especially for those of us who don't attend black-tie events.
Greetings from BCN,
As I Live in New York and use the subway regularly, black shoes feel like the only natural choice, although 90% of people around me seem to wear white sneakers year-round. Most people who wear dress shoes choose brown, but to me, personally, black dress shoes feel natural in such an extremely urban setting, as New York. That being said, May through October I do wear brown and tan shoes. The weather between May and October in New York is very warm and sunny, and thus, dark clothes and black shoes do not feel natural. However, if I choose to wear a dark suit, even in the height of summer, I always wear black shoes.
Also, I disagree that “black = formal”. It doesn’t have to. A full brogue wingtip is by definition more casual than a cap-toe Oxford. A pair of black full-brogue wingtips can look great with gray flannel trousers and a sweater and/or a pea coat (or blazer) for a business-casual look, or can even be worn with a pair of dark charcoal or black five-pocket pants and a dark sport-shirt for a casual urban look that will feel equally great in an office that doesn’t require a formal dress-code, as it will at a night club. So, black doesn’t mean formal and brown doesn’t automatically mean “casual”.
I certainly feel that black *is* the one "colour" for anything even remotely formal but given that I very rarely wear black as predominant colour in my suits and combinations - yes it works fine with grey suits (which, boring as I am, is the majority of my suits, though with one exception all either light or patterned grey) but with all my greys I've come to prefer the same option as you: Burgundy or Ox-blood works with almost anything and can display a vast variety of formality.
Brown I feel works truly only with blues (which *are* a fairly common set of colours, so not much of a problem here, but wait! =>) but of course require *variation* or browns which are absolutely more casual.
Dark brown might move more into the formal varieties, but I feel it's... always somewhat wrong, too warm for cold darker suits, too cold cold for the softer browns or blues of the informal range.
Make no mistake, I spend most of the summer with lighter brown shoes since I wear a lot of Linen and cotton (on a side-note: does anybody else thing that coconut buttons just are to *best* for Linen jackets or am I just a bit weird?😆) in the summer months (' gets annoyingly hot here for two or three months a year) and it goes lovely with those, but for the rest of the year they spend most of their time locked away since they are so completely inappropriate for really *anything else.*
What this boils down to is this: listen to Mr. Jones people - Burgundy *is awesome!* 😃
And it's slowly arriving in the dress shoe market and even reaching out into the, erm, "comfort shoes" market which really is more of a niche than I feel it is because I work a lot with those.
Heck, we even build more and more *orthopaedic shoes* (still a small number but it's getting more) in Ox-blood or Burgundy variations for the simple reasons that if you only have three pairs of wearable shoes and you get on in black and for homewear some form of brown until recently most people got another pair of blacks but now fairly often they choose a very dark red, for simple reason that it works with everything.
If I should put it in an age bracket it's the shoes we build for the 30s-60s-ish customers, the elder mostly want black and dark brown and many of the younger often have no taste whatsover but hey, they get a new pair every year, it might get better...😉.
That is unless they make us add white diagonal stripes to the shoes... 🤣/🤮
Best regards
Raoul G. Kunz
I have some black Chelsea boots that I've been wearing a lot this winter. We've had many snowy wet days and the boots are perfect.
I'm toying with a pair of RM Williams for the 2024 winter season - Chelsea boots are great!
I wore black or burgundy for decades,just recently have been wearing brown in the warmer months.Of course,it depends what colours I am wearing them with,clotheswise
A look in the closet shows, all Allen Edmonds; Dress shoes 2- black 1- tan & 1- chili. Casual shoes; 1- black 3- brown (various style/brogue). I was always taught "no brown in town" but that seems to be changing.
As mentioned, black is necessary to have but I find I always gravitate to some shade of brown. I feel like brown just has more character. Especially with a matching belt and blue suits or slacks. I only wear black with black or grey suits.
Great video, Ash. I would enjoy seeing a shoe closet tour video. I agree with you on burgundy/oxblood looking dapper. I'm considering purchasing a Color 8 dress boot to provide more versatility.
Ash I think every one should have one pair of black cap toe oxfords. I own a pair of Allen Edmonds 5th avenues. The other 14 or so shoes are various shades of brown. I am currently looking for a burgady pair of wing tip Borges. Cheers Ron
Trick Question, Its black/brown or black/burgundy spectators. Half brogued (or whatever its called) instead of full wingtip style.
I knew you were going to finish with burgandy. I have a pair of that colour and a pair of oxbloods. they seem to have become my go to's these days. Go with just about anything.
Very good video Ash. I have black, brown and shades of brown, navy blue and burgundy shoes. Oxfords and Derbys shoes. I would like to see a video about socks. Thanks.
Sartorial norms likely vary regionally. For example, in Boston, black shoes have historically been worn only with formal dress; brown shoes are worn in all other instances. More recently, that protocol (as with many other protocols) is sliding into abeyance.
Office wear I do black. Fridays and weekends it's more of brown. Casual brown in any colour shade.
Black with a charcoal grey or black suit; brown, tan or (perhaps controversially) ox-blood with lighter grey or blue suit. I also have 2 pairs of blue brogues, but I never wear them with a suit.
I've always worn brown shoes for work and special occasions. Recently, I went to shoe shop and saw a black pair of shoes and purchased them. I like both colours.
all my shoes are black , they go well with everthing , the last time i had brown redish shoes was some derby dr martens when i was 14
Another fantastic video Ash. Thank you so much. It is always interesting to evaluate your advice and figure out how much it fits to my own journey to chap nirvana.
My father wore black dress shoes to the office all his work life. He never tried brown ones. I was influenced by that and followed suit for over two decades. It took me until last year to try a mid-brown dress shoe. I enjoy it very much and it is more versatile as black. I wish I had made this step much earlier in life. I wear three pairs in rotation (two black and one brown). I will change this to two brown and one black pair.
Try burgundy - it may be the perfect option!
Excellent advice!
Black loafers are probably the ideal black shoe that can be dressed down, and also can look quite good with a bit of distressing and even a bit "beaten up". Pair with blue Jeans and you get a classic James Dean / Steve McQueen cool.
Excellent discussion and insight.
Black Gucci loafers classic , but brown tassle loafers with jean sports jacket etc 😊
Being color blind I was taught basically the same thing at a young age. Brown shoes only for tan or blue bottom clothing. You can also pair with a blue or tan style suit. What you did not mention was anything on watch pairing. I try to always try to match my watch strap the shoe color.
Where it gets weird for me is metal band watches. For me they don’t pair well with suits, tuxedos or even slacks with just a vest. I also never wear a metal band unless I have on a long sleeve shirt on to prevent scratching the bracelet. It looks weird on any short sleeve. Metal for me pairs with any business or business casual long sleeve shirt. Maybe with a sports coat might be okay as it’s more casual. I know metal sports watches on metal bracelets started becoming the norm on suits at some point, it just usually looks a bit weird.
Is there certain color suits that’s it’s a “avoid” scenario in your opinion for metal bracelets? Or maybe just certain style metal bracelet watches to avoid pairing with a suit? I Ike oversized divers that don’t let the sleeve slide over it well?
Nice video! Thanks!
Ash, love this video. I agree with you about brown shoes! I have fallen in love with the deeper brown, actually what would be called oxblood or burgundy. They are so versatile with my chinos and jeans. I want to thank you for your channel and the excellent work you are doing. I have learned so much, and even more than that, have been motivated by you to dress with class to be an example to my students at school and my family. Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!!
My pleasure sir
@04:00.. the black traditional oxford. it looks more like a derby to me.
Talking of Blue suits, I find Oxblood Oxford's go really well.
The perfect combo
I agree.
Oh my opinion, black is more versatile as it works with all suit colors. But brown looks better with navy in my opinion
Excellent video Ash. I am also a big fan of burgundy for dress shoes. I have 1 pair of black shoes but I try not to use them unless necessary.
Great video Ash as always. Although t noted at around 4 mins you mentioned Black Toe cap Oxford then showed a picture of a Derby. Is the a nod to the “Kingsman” error 😂
Surely the colour of your shoes depends entirely on the colour of your trousers/suit, so you really should have both in your shoe cupboard.
I have black, dark brown, oxblood and mid Tan brogues and they all have their place.
Nice advice Ash. I have one pair of black Oxfords I would wear with my navy suit for formal events like wedding or funeral, sometime I would pair it with my navy chino if I want to be casual. I have a mid brown loafer which I pair with jeans and chino. I would like a ox blood derby one day but I already have a derby shoe in a cool navy nubuck.
I am going to London next week and probably will have to investigate some boots in burgundy color. I am sure watching your videos will cost me a fortune.
Good luck!!
The last can affect, albeit to a slightly lesser extent the formality too
Excellent video! Again!Thanks.
Your videos are amazing. Thank you.
Love the channel Ash! I’m getting ready to invest in a pair of Allen Edmonds and I’m going to select a black wingtip. I’m hopeful that they will fit in most situations. I’ve got a pair of capped toe oxfords in a nice burgundy but it’s time to add another pair of shoes to the fleet.
When getting into the suit or dress up culture , flat out start with the black shoe.
As he pointed out the luster after a polishing is just unbeatable and you won’t have regrets ,
you just cannot dress it down.
I made the mistake of purchasing brown first and when I finally got around to black , it is now what
I wear most .
You cannot go wrong with black dress shoes as they are a default . Some may turn the nose up at what I’m about to say which is you can wear a black full brogue with a suit, which you can. ,just not to a black tie.
A black full brogue is more or less the sneaker/trainer of dress shoes hence the wing tip design which trainers often share.
Burgundy works well too, as an in between!
Great site Ash!
Great video, Ash. Where did you get that super sharp cardigan?
North Sea Clothing
My weekend and holiday go to shoes are brown leather...black for work, but these days brown is becoming more mainstrem for working
Greetings and Salutations from Smiths Falls, Ontario Canada Ash. I agree with your assessment on ox-blood/burgundy colours. Had a question for you however, regarding neckwear. Much like your wife I woud presume, I'm not a fan of cravats or ascots (unless it's an ascot-style felt cap). I am however, enamoured with the cumber tie. It was a style popularized in my memory from the 1950's-60's by such luminaries as American musician Ray Charles. Often worn with a jewelled pin in the center. Do you have any idea, other than thrift shop type stores, where one might be able to obtain such treasure? Thank you for your opinions and outlooks on "Chapness". To paraphrase you, this world I believe needs more gents who "cut a dash"..."look pin sharp" and "work a treat". Warmest regards, and salut to you sir, Steve.
Sir, you have caught me at a disadvantage, as I am unfamiliar with the neck adornment that you have mentioned. I have researched the item in my own library of style books and have investigated via the internet to no avail. I might suggest that the tie is an abbreviated version of the cravat, but it is not something, for which there is any record anywhere I have searched to date. I will continue to delve further and may even make a video if I can find enough information.
@@TheChapsGuide I think the gentleman is refering to the "continental tie". There are a number of photographs of Elvis Presley and Ray Charles wearing it.
Also if you search for (I can't leave links here) "Gentleman's Gazette, continental tie" you'll come with something.
Also this here: "How to wear a Crossover tie (continental tie) 10ways" on TH-cam, plus a number of subsequent videos.
th-cam.com/video/R0I26sZJ5Nk/w-d-xo.html
Hello Mr. McWade, It's called the "continental tie" and (according to the "Gentleman's Gazette") it should be available from some "western-themed retailers", but I hae just checked on Ebay: it's obtainable from 7.91 GBP.
@@adrianwalker2833 Thank you sir. I too have since found out it's called a Bulldogger Tie, part of the continental tie family and is available online. A smart retro acoutrement in my opinion, that I hope to acquire quite soon.
@@s.g.mcwade2538 Ah yes, I had never heard of a "Bulldogger Tie" - but then, I am not American/Canadian. Good luck with your search!
Speaking as someone aged 30 and attending a lot of countryside weddings that are almost never set at churches in any way, brown is a go-to. Though I favour double monks in dark brown as EVERY man usually falls into a light tan. I personally enjoy odd/separate suits, and having worked in a hotel for years, I try to avoid black.
Though I picked up some Joseph Cheaneys Chelsea boots in black for a sweet deal. I might end up the other way sooner than not
Anything black ⚫ demands a lot of care n attention
I remember reading a highly entertaining newspaper column by an etiquette guru (some years ago in fairness) where he opined that one should, basically, only wear brown shoes or boots when in the country; that one should never wear "brown in town". He did, however, concede that it is not an absolute rule on Fridays - the rationale being that one might be leaving early for a weekend at one's place in the country! I swear I'm not making that up - he literally wrote that! Personally I live 'in the country' anyway, and I wear what the monkeys I feel like - black, brown, or (occasionally in the summer) blue suede.🤠
Brown in town is al least more favourable than flip-flops in the city!
Don’t worry. I won’t step on your blue suede shoes. The ghost of Elvis would haunt me forever.
Hello Ash. Would you possibly consider making a presentation on good financial management skills for gentlemen that will help them with the affordability of quality clothing and accessories, maybe reflecting on your own personal journey and habits. If this a topic within the scope of your interest?
I have a financial tips video in the pipeline - thanks for the reminder.
@@TheChapsGuide As always, looking forward to it. Thank you.
Hallo there! At 4.00 you are talking about Oxford but showing us Derby are they Interchange able?
It's always black shoes for business dress and brown for when you're 'off duty'.
It's increasingly claimed to be elitist that certain firms within certain professions expect black shoes and that somehow the working class are discriminated against by turning up in brown shoes for job interviews. However, I grew up in a deprived Northern costal town where you only had one pair of shoes and so made sure that they were black, so that they could be worn for every occasion - a brown pair was a luxury and showed that you were able to own more than one pair of shoes, including pairs that had more of a niche application.
These days I have more brown pairs than black, but I'd still wear black with a suit for work and I wore black shoes on my wedding day.
Same here. I owned one pair of black shoes until I was in my teens. These were for school, cadets and social events. When they became shabby, they became my play shoes (ie. For every other application). I think I only ever owned 2 pairs of shoes at any given time until I joined the military.
So have 3 pairs of black shoes. But I find that black shoes look weird with a navy suit. I have never liked blue and black. I think brown shoes have way more variety and generally match more colors.
I wear my black brogues with black Levi jeans. The jeans are cuffed. Only after 6:30pm of course. What are other trouser styles to wear with black brogues?
Anything in grey will work with black brogues. Grey flannel, grey denim, grey tweed. Odd trousers in a predominantly grey or black and white Prince of Wales check or Glenurquhart check, also dog tooth or puppytooth were very popular in the 60s and 70s with black brogues or black loafers.
Subdued colours in corduroy, cavalry twill and tweed.
Well you have caused me a problem. I was invited to a wedding in Madrid at noon in a garden and I had considered a not so formal attire such as a double breasted blue suit with brown shoes (I had considered a linen light colored suit but as I am arriving at Madrid the very same wedding day it won't be possible to iron it properly) but since you have mentioned several times that weddings are formal occasions and black shoes must be worn, now I am not sure that my original choice is right. What would you suggest?
Very interesting and informative video. Congratulations.
It really depends on the tempo of the wedding - if morning dress is being worn by the principal males, I would defer to quite formal dress, but if the groom is going casual, I would follow suit (literally).
Good morning Sirs. I visit the Loake shoe shop in Nottingham, you all must visit and maybe Ash could do a video of a visit, avery nice shop,leather seating etc with excellant staff, Where I purchase a pair of Lytham oxblood grain, 1880 chukka boot. Been saving up for them! Why! well 3 reasons 1) Whatchting the Chaps guide and with Ash show caseing a colour I would have never have thought off. 2) Having owning a few pairs of tan/brown shoes and boots it would be a useful addition colour platte in my shoes. 3) I saw a young gentleman wearing a pair and beening rather forward I saked him about what were his shoes. So many thanks to Ash and to Ben at Brigdens, in Burton on Trent,yet another place worth a visit and maybe a visit from Ash?
Great choice sir
@@TheChapsGuide All down to your excellant advice and have since been told of Smalleys at 54 Derby St, Nottingham is a Gentlemen's menswear shop. After whatching the two very short youTube clips, I have put it down as a place to visit. All the best and keep up with the great content that you do.
depends on color of pants.
What is your opinion on navy blue suit with black cap-toe oxfords? Usually everyone says that you shouldn't combine blue with black. Cheers for the video.
Black shoes are the perfect companion for a navy suit sir. A great combo.
Brown shoes are beautiful.....but the big problem is that they show scuffs and scratches pretty soon. On the contrary, black shoes can remain impeccable for a long, long time if properly taken care of. In the end, black shoes are far more durable since they don´t show wear and tear as prematurely as brown shoes.
The winters in the UK aren't this mild are they?
Whenever I wear a suit I always find myself gravitating towards my black dress shoes, sometimes dark brown. But usually I don't go lighter than that. For me a pair of tan or light brown shoes just draw too much attention to the feet in an otherwise darker ensemble.
On the other hand, when it comes to casual ensembles with chinos I find black dress shoes usually look out of place, even with darker trousers.
Americans have long had the peculiar habit of wearing quite light brown shoes with blue suits in even the most formal of environments. And I suppose the predominance of American made entertainment people absorb has led to the idea gaining traction here in Blighty. Being old school I'd still go with the rules set by the kate, as opposed to those of the per ardua and seafaring crowd. So black for the city, evening eating, and funerals, and brown for the country, or less formal settings. Probably ok for a country mouse going up to London for clobber to be brown. Light tan shoes with a business suit, Ughhhhhhhhh :)
Hello Sir! As a young student I cannot currently afford a lot of different pairs of footwear, so it is obvious to have the most versatile options. And here brown comes as truly the most versatile. Not as hard to maintain as white (I think that cleaning white sneakers everyday is pure pain) and it is not as formal and somber as black. Perfectly suits my smart casual style.
And here I would like to ask you a question, sir. What are your thoughts on having some pieces of clothes that express your nationality or ethnicity? Can such garments and hats be worn on daily basis or they better be left for special national festivals? As for me, I have a linen peaked cap of style that was very popular and common in my country 60 - 100 years ago. And I was wearing it during last summer and early autumn. It quickly became one of my favourite pieces and got a lot of compliments. Now I'm looking for similar garments with national motives to incorporate into my personal style.
Looking forward for your response, Ash!
Boris
A good question. I would have to say I think that wearing nationality focused items is a good idea, as long as it does not come across as too much of a pastiche of one's nationality and is also appropriate for the situation. As an example, the Bowler hat is often seen as a very traditionally British item, but if I wore one with jeans and t-shirt I would look criminally insane! So wear your national dress with pride, but with careful consideration.
Ash can you please enlighten us on your secret to that mirror shine?
I do have some videos in the library that feature my mirror shine process. Check them out!
I wonder how many ex- RAF/ R AUX AF still have at least one pair immaculate shoes they used to wear with their no 1 uniform ?
Mine are over twenty years old .
Black shoes can be dressed down.........the wingtip. When we were kids we used to wear black wingtips with jeans and leather jackets. It looked spiffy.
Hello Ash, What are your thoughts on the heel rubber wedge replacement. I have realised over the years the this heel wedge rubber is the only thing that deteriroates and the rest of the leather sole seems still okay. And when you approach the shoe companies they dont just replace the heel rubber wedge but we have to pay for the complete resole of the sole. I am not sure if i agree with this but do we have a choice? What are your thoughts on this issue??
Have the heel replaced at a local cobbler, no need to send back to the factory for such a minor repair.
Burgundy? Brown? Calf? Museum calf? Vegano? Which color and leather combination would you choose? What are your thoughts on navy shoes?
Burgundy museum is king!
@TheChapsGuide thank you for your quick response. I asked because TLB Mallorca doesn't have oxblood but they do have museum calf burgundy.
Ash, as I have a number of dark BLUE shoes (via Ebay), but now I am at a loss, when to wear them. Any suggestions?
Not in the most formal situations I would suggest, but perfect for more casual scenarios.
I have one brown shoes and 5 black Oxford shoes at it
A little question I'd like to ask. Whilst visiting my local Loake shop, the man who works there and I were having a chat about the Kingsman films. He said about how the quote "oxfords not brogues" makes no sense. Do you agree?
I agree. Brogues can be oxfords.
Hahahahah I saw you had 99 comments so I just wanted to be the 100th💃🕺👍
Mission accomplished!
I was amused by the shoes at 11:30. Back in 1959 there was a novelty hit tune called “Tan Shoes and Pink Shoelaces.” You’ve dated yourself!
I have been worrying about the strange boutonnière you were wearing in the top button hole of your blazer. I was beginning to think you had lost it completely. It took me a while to realise it was a hairy microphone. 😂
My only black shoe is an 1980's Allen Edmonds full brogue. Please explain, black is formal, brogues are casual. When do you go for a black full brogue?
The lines of formality and causality are blurred. Black brogues are perfectly acceptable with a suit.
Same question from me, if someone has a good suggestion on what to do with a black brogue I’d be fascinated to hear it. Wear with a kilt?
@@thomasdonaldson6875 I always wear black shoes with my kilt.
I am attending one of my best friends’ Golden wedding this month, I shall be wearing a light grey three piece suit a with Bally Bordeaux moccasins . I have always used Bordeaux shoe cream over the years and as you say they are now very dark.
I have a similar pair of moccasins by R&B in black but on this occasion I shall prefer brown.
It will be more of a house party to be honest, no out of doors element.
I know that you are a wristwatch chap, as am I, so you may not be surprised to learn that the first thing that I will put on is my favourite vintage gold watch.
@@velviaman3206 A bit of a tricky question given the parameters. What is the dress code place for the wedding? Is it a traditional wedding dress code or an alternate style? Weddings are a formal event that calls for black oxfords. Black, brown and oxblood shoes go with grey suites. If a black cap toe is not possible go with the most formal looking of your moccasins the black R&B.
In lists of the first group of dress shoes a man should own the first is a black cap-toe Oxfords for the events that only it will do for as in weddings, funereal and formal business.
Could be a US/UK cultural difference, but to me, shoe color has more to do with suit color than formality.
Black suit = black shoes.
Any shade of grey suit = black or oxblood
Navy suit = dark brown or oxblood
Medium grey suit = dark brown, light brown, or oxblood.
Where oxfords are classier than derbies, and cap toes are classier than shoes with brogue.
Brilliantly said. Thank you for talking up black shoes. People have been convinced that black shoes are boring. When they were the majority of the shoes men wore, well-dressed people liked to stand out by wearing brown and burgundy shoes. Now the black shoe is a sign of good taste. Black may not have the interest of brown, but the power of the black shoe has been forgotten. I rarely see black shoes, and people are wearing light walnut brown shoes with everything, even black suits and trousers. Light brown shoes look beautiful on their own, but they don't coordinate well, as you say. The mirror shine is what makes black shoes beautiful.