I don’t often sit all the through a 16 minute TH-cam video but I did on this one. I would have immediately went for a carb rebuild right off the bat, this gave me other easy troubleshooting tips that I wouldn’t have thought of first. Good job buddy, thanks.
Have a 193t had the same issues. Put new filters carb blah blah still ran like crap. Was about to buy another saw since I had a tree to do and this video fixed it
That was a great breakdown and reassembly of my saw. Thanks. I had done a bunch of those items, but the spark arrestor is where I'm going next! I'll bet that's it.
Yep, Good plan. I took my saw in to a Stihl authorized service center not long after I got my first 192. I was going to drop it off and return but it was about a 30 minute drive. The mechanic came out and had me wait. He took off the spark arrestor and the screen was plugged. He just through it in the trash and said I didn't need it anyway. The saw started and ran just fine. I wish I had kept the spark arrestor though since they are required when cutting wood in a US forrest.
@@joannaknowles8789 I agree when I remember. I own antique saws that don’t even have a chain brake so I just try to be aware and cautious at all times and not rely on it.
I just watched your video and then my soul started working. But I think I still have the same problem that you had Spork adjuster in the muffler. Thank you.
After watching a couple of other videos, I was suspecting the spark arrestor, and I think the YT creator probably was, too. The video could have been shorter based on that, but saving that for last did give an excuse to show folks how to walk through all kinds of other things to inspect, clean, and rule out as causes.
What kind of oil would do that? I have the same saw, just serviced it today. My drive sprocket has quite a groove in the center from heavy use. My sparky had some tan carbon but no oil. My clutch bearing was squealing and some grease should fix that. You make it look easy, it's a task for the patient.
I've got a clone version of this saw, in the manual it says to decoke the exhaust port at 100 hours from new then every 150 hours after that. I would imagine that you would normally clean the spark arrestor as part of the maintenance while you've got the exhaust off anyway. well diagnosed.
My spark arrestor wasn't jammed like that, but the whole inside of the muffler was coated in fluid. I took it off and the saw ran great. Maybe fluid has the same effect?
You have to set your Highs and Lows on the carb. If anyone is wondering its on the other side where your choke lever is at, 3 hole H, L, FA. Only adjust the H and L.
The carb was perfectly tuned. I would not suggest anyone mess with the carb screws unless needed. This is a saw that gradually started running worse over time, no indication of needing an adjustment. If anything I would recommend cleaning the carb first. Too many people start making adjustments before figuring out what caused the change in tune which in this case was the exhaust screen.
If you aren't using your saw in a forest in dry conditions, just remove the spark arrestor. I've personally never seen a chainsaw muffler throw a spark and it's the first thing I ever modify on a saw.
you did a great job many people take apart and don't even clean the parts you did a very good job
I don’t often sit all the through a 16 minute TH-cam video but I did on this one. I would have immediately went for a carb rebuild right off the bat, this gave me other easy troubleshooting tips that I wouldn’t have thought of first. Good job buddy, thanks.
Thanks for watching man I really appreciate the comment!
Have a 193t had the same issues. Put new filters carb blah blah still ran like crap. Was about to buy another saw since I had a tree to do and this video fixed it
That was a great breakdown and reassembly of my saw. Thanks. I had done a bunch of those items, but the spark arrestor is where I'm going next! I'll bet that's it.
Yep, Good plan. I took my saw in to a Stihl authorized service center not long after I got my first 192. I was going to drop it off and return but it was about a 30 minute drive. The mechanic came out and had me wait. He took off the spark arrestor and the screen was plugged. He just through it in the trash and said I didn't need it anyway. The saw started and ran just fine. I wish I had kept the spark arrestor though since they are required when cutting wood in a US forrest.
This guy makes it look so easy
Excellent teardown and diagnosis. Your channel deserves more views.
That was a thorough exam. Thanks for posting
Thanks for watching!
@@MarleyJaxGarage Intereasting video i enjoyed it. But never start a saw with the chain brake off.
@@joannaknowles8789 I agree when I remember. I own antique saws that don’t even have a chain brake so I just try to be aware and cautious at all times and not rely on it.
Nice work! Amazing how many people make comments and suggestions on what the problem is...and didnt even watch the video when you solved it.
I had a 170 given to me and I cleaned the screen and the saw works great.
I just watched your video and then my soul started working. But I think I still have the same problem that you had Spork adjuster in the muffler. Thank you.
Thank you for the video now I have an idea of what’s wrong with mine 👍👍
Thanks! That did the trick for me too🤘 Never would have guessed
Thank you for great video. Job well done.
Thanks for watching!
After watching a couple of other videos, I was suspecting the spark arrestor, and I think the YT creator probably was, too. The video could have been shorter based on that, but saving that for last did give an excuse to show folks how to walk through all kinds of other things to inspect, clean, and rule out as causes.
Really awesome video brotha thank you!
How’d you clean the muffler? Sorry if someone asked I looked through and didn’t see
What kind of oil would do that? I have the same saw, just serviced it today. My drive sprocket has quite a groove in the center from heavy use. My sparky had some tan carbon but no oil. My clutch bearing was squealing and some grease should fix that. You make it look easy, it's a task for the patient.
Great video man!! Thank you!!
I've got a clone version of this saw, in the manual it says to decoke the exhaust port at 100 hours from new then every 150 hours after that. I would imagine that you would normally clean the spark arrestor as part of the maintenance while you've got the exhaust off anyway. well diagnosed.
How do they suggest cleaning the exhaust port? I have this saw. Cleaning the spark arrester helped a little, but still seems to bog down.
Saved me from the shop. Thank you!
Glad I could help out
My spark arrestor wasn't jammed like that, but the whole inside of the muffler was coated in fluid. I took it off and the saw ran great. Maybe fluid has the same effect?
I was thinking spark arrester before you even pulled the plug. Would have taken less than a min to check.
I'm trying this tomorrow ! can't get my sthil 023 to go full throttle ...
Hello, how can I clean my air filter like you?
I used an air compressor to blow it out.
NICE JOB!!!
Just wondering why you didn't back out the high idle screw.
Great video
Good video Sergio argentina
Awesome 👍🏻
Thanks for watching
Nice job. Thank you.
Check the exhaust screen it could be pluged up !
Thank you for the video!!
Nice video ty
Thank you
nice job!!!!
Dang mines doing the same thing but my spark arrester screen is fine 😔
@benm2081 Did u ever figure out the problem?
Back out the high idle screw a turn or two. It fixed mine.
Thanks bud
Mesin yang bagus
Those tinny spark plug can make it run crappy but I’m guessing it’s the carb metering diaphragm or pump
It was the spark arrestor on the exhaust.
What happen this Stihl?? I have Stihl 880 Stihl 171 Stihl FS 560 Stihl HS45
adjust your carb simple and easy
The carb wasn’t the issue, proper diagnosis is critical when working on engines.
@@MarleyJaxGarage 😂😂😂😂😂😂ya think
Dude check your fuel filter
Fuel filter was good
I bet it’s the fuel filter before you even say it
You have to set your Highs and Lows on the carb. If anyone is wondering its on the other side where your choke lever is at, 3 hole H, L, FA. Only adjust the H and L.
The carb was perfectly tuned. I would not suggest anyone mess with the carb screws unless needed. This is a saw that gradually started running worse over time, no indication of needing an adjustment. If anything I would recommend cleaning the carb first. Too many people start making adjustments before figuring out what caused the change in tune which in this case was the exhaust screen.
If you aren't using your saw in a forest in dry conditions, just remove the spark arrestor. I've personally never seen a chainsaw muffler throw a spark and it's the first thing I ever modify on a saw.
Great video