Howdy! Here is the Memory Saver that works for the Range Rover www.amazon.com/dp/B07KCN69LJ?linkCode=ssc&tag=onamzjasonlew-20&creativeASIN=B07KCN69LJ&asc_item-id=amzn1.ideas.1XF6P87AOM0Z9&ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ons_mixed_d_asin
I'm really glad you're still doing high quality videos Jason. I have followed you for some time and really enjoy each and every post you have created. Hope we can cross paths one day so I can buy you a cold one. Stay Strong!
When my stock battery failed in my JKU, I put a yellow top in it, and have been very happy with it. I feel a lot better running a winch off of it than that OE battery. I bet that 12V feed was on the wrong side of a diode or something, so the ECU and such was reset.
That's kind of what I experienced with the Rover on those cold mornings... running all of the heater elements is a huge draw and the deep cycle capability of the old battery was just depleted. I figured out that on the Rover, all of the power outlets are on a switched relay that closes soon as the battery terminals are removed. The smart way to do this same maneuver would be to buy the same 9V battery setup with an obdII port adapter since that is hot all the time but that was $25 and more than I wanted to spend extra at the moment. All of this stuff adds up so dang fast.
@@AutoEdits Yeah, especially when you don't gain much for that $25. If you run a shop that does this all the time, it would totally make sense. But not for a one and done.
I've replaced several of the DH7 yellow top batteries in my 2022 concrete saw. The saw was delivered 10-9-2022. One of them only lasted 5 working days. A few lasted barely over a week. 5 or 6 lasted under a month. I think the size of the plates has a harmonic resonance that destroys itself in that application. I installed a smaller group 35 spiral cell yellow top battery in October and haven't had a problem with all-out battery failure since. I did need a jump start back in February but since it's been fine. I carried a spare because it was such a problem.
I have 2 Optima DH7s. One in my Gladiator and one on a battery maintainer. My motorized steps always draw a small amount of power and on top of having a modern vehicle with computers and modules up the wazoo, the battery will be depleted no mater how often I drive. Once my Glad starts acting up and I notice before start up the voltage is below 12v, I go ahead and swap Optimas.
Hey Jason. Just thought I'd share something about that rear power outlet in your Jeep. You can make it an always hot or switchable by changing the location of the fuse.
Battery install... Boring. Battery install that doesn't go as planned.... Now I'm watching to the end of the video. Got my Optima Yellow top 7 years ago after watching one of your videos. Its in vehicle number 2, for reference my work van (drive it everyday) is going on parts store brand battery #3.
You had battery tender cables on the terminals. Could you have just plugged the tender back in during the swap? Probably not since the tenders usually need to detect the battery voltage, right?
Good observation, yes the charger shuts off when there's no battery and I could've just connected straight to my spare battery but just wanted to try this little gizmo. I was kind of impressed it worked absolutely perfect on the Jeep.
Good suggestion, although I opened the door multiple times on the Jeep and it worked fine. The problem with the Rover is all of those outlets are on a switched relay and soon as battery power is lost, that switch closes. I could've used an OBDII 9V adapter instead but that was $25 bucks and more than I wanted to spend as a gag for this video. If the stakes were higher due to the stereo locking me out or something, I would've invested in the right tool!
Nice video. Interesting with the 9v battery maintainer not working on the Range Rover. Most likely due to the integral electrical system and all the control modules. I have a more specialized version of that tool. It gets plugged into the OBD2 port and 110 outlet. I've used it several times...and works perfectly, even on Euro vehicles with complex CAN systems. Speaking of, do you need to program your NEW battery to the BMS (battery management system)?? Thanks.
Thanks for the info! Yes, I should've spent the extra $10 on the OBDII memory saver instead of the 12v outlet!!! I did use my iCarsoft and set the battery to new. Is that what you mean?
Howdy! Here is the Memory Saver that works for the Range Rover www.amazon.com/dp/B07KCN69LJ?linkCode=ssc&tag=onamzjasonlew-20&creativeASIN=B07KCN69LJ&asc_item-id=amzn1.ideas.1XF6P87AOM0Z9&ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ons_mixed_d_asin
I'm really glad you're still doing high quality videos Jason. I have followed you for some time and really enjoy each and every post you have created. Hope we can cross paths one day so I can buy you a cold one. Stay Strong!
I appreciate that!
Wise words on the importance of battery maintenance! YELLOWTOP + D200+ is a power combo.
I see what you did there... "power combo" (applause) 😂
@@AutoEdits 😜
When my stock battery failed in my JKU, I put a yellow top in it, and have been very happy with it. I feel a lot better running a winch off of it than that OE battery. I bet that 12V feed was on the wrong side of a diode or something, so the ECU and such was reset.
That's kind of what I experienced with the Rover on those cold mornings... running all of the heater elements is a huge draw and the deep cycle capability of the old battery was just depleted. I figured out that on the Rover, all of the power outlets are on a switched relay that closes soon as the battery terminals are removed. The smart way to do this same maneuver would be to buy the same 9V battery setup with an obdII port adapter since that is hot all the time but that was $25 and more than I wanted to spend extra at the moment. All of this stuff adds up so dang fast.
@@AutoEdits Yeah, especially when you don't gain much for that $25. If you run a shop that does this all the time, it would totally make sense. But not for a one and done.
I've replaced several of the DH7 yellow top batteries in my 2022 concrete saw. The saw was delivered 10-9-2022. One of them only lasted 5 working days. A few lasted barely over a week. 5 or 6 lasted under a month. I think the size of the plates has a harmonic resonance that destroys itself in that application. I installed a smaller group 35 spiral cell yellow top battery in October and haven't had a problem with all-out battery failure since. I did need a jump start back in February but since it's been fine. I carried a spare because it was such a problem.
That's interesting to hear about the difference of flat vs. spiral!
As for the "Memory Saver" I have a DXAEOBDK Dewalt memory saver that plugs into OBDII port. Worked great when I recently swapped batteries.
Yep, the OBDII adapter would've done the trick for the Rover for sure 👍
I have 2 Optima DH7s. One in my Gladiator and one on a battery maintainer. My motorized steps always draw a small amount of power and on top of having a modern vehicle with computers and modules up the wazoo, the battery will be depleted no mater how often I drive.
Once my Glad starts acting up and I notice before start up the voltage is below 12v, I go ahead and swap Optimas.
Interesting, would it just be easier to mount a pig tail to put the battery maintainer on that thing overnight every once in a while?
@@AutoEdits I park my Glad in a community garage so I have no access to an outlet.
Gotcha, sounds like you have a good system in place 👍
Odyssey batteries are my go too. Optima’s have failed me on multiple occasions.
I see lots of good stuff on those batteries in my social media feeds 👍
Hey Jason. Just thought I'd share something about that rear power outlet in your Jeep. You can make it an always hot or switchable by changing the location of the fuse.
I love learning little tricks like that, thanks!
I need to get a yellow top. It’s time for a change 💪😎👊
This is the way...🔦⚡
My '12 and '15 will keep the same radio stations when I swapped batteries. I think that the radio has it's own like CR123 internal battery.
Yep, even the Rover had internal memory for the radio!
Battery install... Boring. Battery install that doesn't go as planned.... Now I'm watching to the end of the video.
Got my Optima Yellow top 7 years ago after watching one of your videos. Its in vehicle number 2, for reference my work van (drive it everyday) is going on parts store brand battery #3.
I've had good luck as well... glad to hear!!!
You had battery tender cables on the terminals. Could you have just plugged the tender back in during the swap? Probably not since the tenders usually need to detect the battery voltage, right?
Good observation, yes the charger shuts off when there's no battery and I could've just connected straight to my spare battery but just wanted to try this little gizmo. I was kind of impressed it worked absolutely perfect on the Jeep.
Now I have to get a YellowTop DH6 for the JKU. lol
Well... I've been pretty happy with that thing... sorry not sorry 😂
Jason, is it possible that the dash cluster memory was saved because the start/stop battery was attached and functioning?
This Jeep doesn't have start/stop and only one battery. Good thinking on that!
👍
👍
Jason, what happened to Large Marge?
Had to sell it a few years ago.
I think one of the reasons it didnt work was because you had the door open
Good suggestion, although I opened the door multiple times on the Jeep and it worked fine. The problem with the Rover is all of those outlets are on a switched relay and soon as battery power is lost, that switch closes. I could've used an OBDII 9V adapter instead but that was $25 bucks and more than I wanted to spend as a gag for this video. If the stakes were higher due to the stereo locking me out or something, I would've invested in the right tool!
Do you still own your 3rd gen?
Sold it several years ago to a young dude that stuffed a big block in it.
First
Got it again! 🙌
I think the radio can remember it's own settings for a short time
This experiment would back up that theory!
Second!!!!!🍓😎
Ok.. here we go... 🍩👀🙌🤴🕵️♀️🎪🧦🛴💥💙
Nice video. Interesting with the 9v battery maintainer not working on the Range Rover. Most likely due to the integral electrical system and all the control modules. I have a more specialized version of that tool. It gets plugged into the OBD2 port and 110 outlet. I've used it several times...and works perfectly, even on Euro vehicles with complex CAN systems. Speaking of, do you need to program your NEW battery to the BMS (battery management system)?? Thanks.
Thanks for the info! Yes, I should've spent the extra $10 on the OBDII memory saver instead of the 12v outlet!!! I did use my iCarsoft and set the battery to new. Is that what you mean?
@@AutoEdits ... YES, that's what I was referring. Thanks for the reply.