these tips are game changers. Love that it's not a video about "best settings" or simple "just do this" tricks, it's a direct learning guide on how slicing works and how to learn more and gain understanding
Yeah, but he still makes some huge mistakes. Like his explanation for the lithophane, where he says that the Z axis is less detailed, when in fact that's where the greatest detail is. The usual print orientation advice is to try to get details along the Z axis, NOT the X/Y axis.
You remind me of a friendly rabbi at a temple close by that is happy to chat with anyone who wants to have a conversation, temple-goer or not. Really enjoy your videos. Keep the good work.
Systems similar to gcode have been around for at least 50 years. Robot arms used in the 80s had similar instruction languages. Before printers were plotters which evolved into vinyl cutters and they came from the 60s. New tech evolves from old tech. We all owe our forbears respect.
Will definitely be using the settings guide. Just started making the move from prusaslicer to cura and was a little overwhelmed with all the options and the fact that many of them seem to be very similar with no clear distinction between them. Thanks!
It's been a long since I've used a VAX! - the 11/750 or the 11/780? - yes, VMS rocked! - now, I've gotten some FANTASTIC tips from your TH-cam channel! - Thank you Irv, your tips have 'bumped' my prints up a few levels!....Oh, now a VAX hooked up to a 3D printer! - YES!
Thank you Irv, for your video. The marketplace is awesome! I never knew (or looked) at what it was. I'll spend the rest of the afternoon reading the in-depth settings on what my S10 can do.
You are by far the best 3d printing youtuber. Nobody even comes close! Thanks to your videos I went from wanting to throw this dang ender 3 in the dumpster to printing a pretty high quality calibrate cube!
Another thought is that if you are going to stand the lithoprint up like that, it should be aligned along the y axis so that there's more stability as the bed moves in and out.
For a core xy I think you'd want it at a 45° angle across the bed. The combined x/y movement would give you a greater effective resolution than if it were aligned along the x or y axis alone.
you are a great teacher. im learning a lot from you. im 78 and love to learn different things. also learning a onefinity cnc which perates in the same manner except with wood. thanks for all your help edd fraczek
Great video! I really like your videos and how you teach techniques. When I get asked about how to do something I always point them to your channel. I always learn something new and make my prints better. Keep up the good job!
@@MakeWithTech Just another quick question.. Before I head dive into the Lithographing are you using jus tsimple white PLA or transparent? :) Thamks Looking forward to your input on that.. Meir
I have been wondering about slicer features for custom built printers that are uniquely designed and having the capacity to add the features into the slicer is an important aspect that shouldn’t be overlooked in an industry where were open sourced and relying on independent innovation. Cartesian 600x600x900 with a solid mount bed, moving gantry, servos, etc. gantry auto levels to the bed. This is why customizing can be an issue getting up and running. Thanks for all you do.
This filled in so many blanks in my knowledge, thank you so much: you bet I subscribed lol! 37min well invested, took notes so I can practice. The last tip was the most unexpected - what a wonderful innovative way to use 3D printing to recreate this old charming and effective technology (and a lovely picture of your folks)
Always your presentation is super. I am using Ultimate Cura 4.12.1 with ANYCUBIC 3D printer. The printed result is not accurate about 0.5% shrinked. Also I am amazing, that the lithograph print can be 3D printer, I tried that, and opened jpg image, then image convert screen appeared. and your nice mom on your lithopane. Thanks again.
Thanks for your videos. You have a very concise yet thorough style. I had been looking for a video on lithophanes. What color filament is the best for lithophanes? Also thank you for your review on the Fokoo Odin 3 which I find to be easy to use and reliable. I thought that I wanted an idex printer but I never could get it to work properly.
Another great instructional video. However, adding ABL instruction can be problematic on some printers (CR6SE for example). It is also unnecessary to do ABL every print because the mesh data is saved to memory(if done correctly), from there the printer only needs the z homing to pick up the current height. ABL(mesh) only needs to be done after modest/major changes to the bed surface.
@tradde11 So many ways to do it :-) Fortunally I never have an issue with non sticking prints. I mostly print on a glass bed with some hairspray. Once in a while a good rinse with hot soapy water to clean the bed.
Another tip is to do infill at 99% instead of 100%. You actually can save a lot of time on the lithophanes. Or just increase wall count higher than the picture needs ( like 50). Looking forward to the next video.
Thanks again for your video Irv, there is always something to learn ;-) I actually experimented with lithophanes last year and printed some nice ones. I printed them curved, put them in a printed frame with hooks so you could hang them on a lampshade. They are great fun and almost no one knows about them and their history.
@@johnhodson8619 this is not an expert advise but I used neutral white that shines nice through and I used a website to create the lithophane that also let you create the curved image. print it vertically. Hang it on a lamp shade and you have a nice photo when lamp is on and just a 3d print when lamp is off. Search for creat litho-hand online. There are several.
My brain just exploded, 😵💫😵💫😵💫 😉 🤣🤣🤣🤣 I can remember back in the 60s, my dad’s accounting firm used computers to reconcile company finances and write up statements and reports. All done with punchcards. By the mid 80s I was programming in 7 languages and 3 scripts. Now as an old fart things are progressing at such a rate, but it is all fascinating. These 3D printers are truly brilliant and the more I watch, the more amazing they get. Anyway, as soon as I can work out where to hide it from She Who Must Be Obeyed, I’ll grab one, 😂😂😂. Cheers my friend, I enjoy your informative videos, just wish my head would stop exploding, 🤣🤣🤣. 👏👏👏 👋👋👋 🇦🇺
When I draw a custom thread design on a bottle the bottom of the thread is not clean it has loops on it but the top is perfect. Any idea on what I could do to make the bottom thread smooth ? Keep on with the videos great job
Very informative video! I learned a lot. Thank you. I tried the image printing process but I keep on getting an "extraneous surfaces" error as soon as I rotate to 90°. How does one solve this? (I am using Cura 5.1)
Hi 👋 great content , you have reviewed many many ender printers , prusa and deltas , can you make a video on best dual extruder printer system. Which one is recommended and best buy for money maybe under 20K USD
I have an Artist-D Pro. I'm trying to make something similar to the 2 color coin using Cura to slice a FreeCad design. It's giving me fits. Could you do a video on how to do it with my setup? Thanks Tom
Thank you for the video, it was very helpful. I have another problem I would like to hear your input on. My Voxelab Aquila printer sometimes will start a job and will arbitrarily decide without any outside interference that the print job has completed. It stops wherever it is moves the nozzle to the back left side of the plate and on the screen says the job has completed. After clearing what was just printed off the build plate I can start the job again immediately and it will print flawlessly. Any thoughts on why this happens? Thank you again for your input I do rely heavily on your knowledge.
Great Channel, thanks so much. Can you help please - I am printing a nose for a model glider that is meant to be hollow, but there is an infill at the very bottom(the start of the print)how do I remove it ? I have no infill selected, I am using Cura 4.13.1 and an Ender3 Pro. Thanks in advance, I am new to printing, about one year.
Is Marlin still present in the market? Everyone i know runs Klipper or Repetier on its printer. The last time i used Marlin was a "Configure, Build, Upload, Test, Doit again"-cycle nightmare. :)
Some very useful tips , thanks, I can't seem to find any info on how the nozzle point affects printing some have a larger flat arear around the hole than others, I'm going up to 1mm (volcano) and there are different style/shapes not sure what would be best, does a flatter end help squash the filament flat or does a more pointy style make a cleaner finish
How come in 18:06 your main object stays in yellow shape when you're editing, but mine turns into grey ghosts color and I can't see what I'm doing. And yours is like constantly in sliced position.
Whenever I try and add a printer based on an existing printer definition the non-print (margin, gutter, etc.) from the original printer shows up in the new printer. Often the non-print area is different because of the method used to secure the print surface. How do you change the non-print (margin, gutter, etc.) area?
Im trying to get a helmet to fit on an ender3 xtender 300x300 bed does not fit but if a pull up a cr10s with same size bed it fits want can i do is it the firmware or the cura slicer thanks
I am trying Cura for the first time but for some reason when i print the file two corners always are square, but they have a 5mm curve radius, the slicer show the radius but when printed it's not there. any suggestions thanks
I deleted Cura and reinstalled it, but all my models are very small in size!! What can I do to return the size of my models in Cura to their original size? Thanks
I am not sure that printing use XY is more accurate than using Z. After all, the bead of pla that is laid down is generally wider than the layer height, isn't it? Maybe it's that you get smoother edges?
It is not about accuracy. It is about the size of the movement, the resolution. When printing in the Z direction the resolution is defined by the layer high. When moving in the X or Y directions the resolution is defined by the stepper motor limitations. While the smallest resolution of a layer is generally .10mm the resolution possible due to a minimum turn of your steppers motors is often 1/10 of that. Here is a good article explaining this in more detail: pinshape.com/blog/4-things-you-need-to-know-about-3d-printing-resolution-outdated/
When you have blobs in your print you have realy other problems than arcs. :) Arc Welding is to reduce artefacts on rounded surfaces. This artifacts look like you have a n-edged object instead of a round object.
10:27 Just like all good programmers, you should add a comment as to the meaning of the gcode you add, so next week when you look at the code you'll know what it does! I'm assuming by matching the semicolon and Bed Leveling (3-Point).
The man the legend! shavoa tov. I would really love to see you do a video on the best way to print a ball on a FDM as an experienced printer I can tell you these shapes often catch me off guard and fail. but maybe its just me. The challenge being to print the ball with the least supports possible!
I purchased a new McBook Pro with the M1 Max chip and the Cura Software is not compatible. I am still using my old McBook Pro waiting for Cura to update its software to be compatible to the new 2021 McBook Pro with the M1 chip!
Wait specific Mac chips just don't work with Cura? Really? That's so dumb! Cura works on any combination of any hardware that can run standard Windows 10! Boy, am I glad I don't use Apple products; they always seem to have some fault that isn't present on Windows machines.
The issue is the QT graphics framework that Cura uses. They use V5.x and you need QT 6.x for M1 processor support. Cura v5 will be upgraded to QT 6 but I could not find a date fir the v5 release.
@@MakeWithTech I was trying to make a lighthearted jab at Apple, but that's pretty interesting. Don't see why it doesn't "just work" like it does on Windows but I'm not an engineer of any type so I'll just have to assume there are legitimate reasons that Apple is purposefully gimping their newer products like that.
@@MakeWithTech But they seem to have omitted something from the CPU internal code that would have otherwise allowed it to run Cura 4.12 without issue. Who knows what else they omitted? Technology advances, but backwards compatibility is still very important.
these tips are game changers. Love that it's not a video about "best settings" or simple "just do this" tricks, it's a direct learning guide on how slicing works and how to learn more and gain understanding
Your passion for 3D printing really shines through in your videos.
Thanks so much for your easy-to-follow contributions to the community
Thank you for watching
Yeah, but he still makes some huge mistakes. Like his explanation for the lithophane, where he says that the Z axis is less detailed, when in fact that's where the greatest detail is.
The usual print orientation advice is to try to get details along the Z axis, NOT the X/Y axis.
You remind me of a friendly rabbi at a temple close by that is happy to chat with anyone who wants to have a conversation, temple-goer or not. Really enjoy your videos. Keep the good work.
Systems similar to gcode have been around for at least 50 years. Robot arms used in the 80s had similar instruction languages. Before printers were plotters which evolved into vinyl cutters and they came from the 60s.
New tech evolves from old tech. We all owe our forbears respect.
Thanks for filling in some gaps. That slicer setting add in is worth the price of admission!
Will definitely be using the settings guide. Just started making the move from prusaslicer to cura and was a little overwhelmed with all the options and the fact that many of them seem to be very similar with no clear distinction between them. Thanks!
It's been a long since I've used a VAX! - the 11/750 or the 11/780? - yes, VMS rocked! - now, I've gotten some FANTASTIC tips from your TH-cam channel! - Thank you Irv, your tips have 'bumped' my prints up a few levels!....Oh, now a VAX hooked up to a 3D printer! - YES!
Thank you Irv, for your video. The marketplace is awesome! I never knew (or looked) at what it was. I'll spend the rest of the afternoon reading the in-depth settings on what my S10 can do.
The best tutorial on how to use Cura! Thanks!
I just purchased my first 3D printer (a Creality Ender 3 Neo). Thank you for making 3D printing not so scary.
You are by far the best 3d printing youtuber. Nobody even comes close! Thanks to your videos I went from wanting to throw this dang ender 3 in the dumpster to printing a pretty high quality calibrate cube!
36.05 LOL, my office lights also went off then back on. Nice presentation, I'll need to watch it more times to digest it all. Thanks!
Another thought is that if you are going to stand the lithoprint up like that, it should be aligned along the y axis so that there's more stability as the bed moves in and out.
depends on your printer topology.... Ender 5 bed only moves up and down
For a core xy I think you'd want it at a 45° angle across the bed. The combined x/y movement would give you a greater effective resolution than if it were aligned along the x or y axis alone.
you are a great teacher. im learning a lot from you. im 78 and love to learn different things. also learning a onefinity cnc which perates in the same manner except with wood. thanks for all your help edd fraczek
You covered all of this so well. Thank you. I love the recap at the end. You have to be a teacher.
Great video! I really like your videos and how you teach techniques. When I get asked about how to do something I always point them to your channel. I always learn something new and make my prints better. Keep up the good job!
Uncanny. I had a need for different settings for different parts of a model on the weekend. Could have waited and saved some googling. Thank you.
Glad I could help!
Imádom a videókat. Minden alkalommal tanulok valami újat, Még kezdő vagyok. Köszönöm.
Amazing tips! Thank you! I was just working on this specific issue with designated infill this afternoon. Eye opening info!
Best video I’ve seen on tips for printing. Thank you very much for this.
this guy is very calming. thanks for the content
That was awesome, I am totally impressed, Great Video on you. Good Job.
Fantastic Video ! The Lithograph "Cool" Keep up the good work.
Thanks, will do!
@@MakeWithTech Just another quick question.. Before I head dive into the Lithographing are you using jus tsimple white PLA or transparent? :) Thamks Looking forward to your input on that..
Meir
I have been wondering about slicer features for custom built printers that are uniquely designed and having the capacity to add the features into the slicer is an important aspect that shouldn’t be overlooked in an industry where were open sourced and relying on independent innovation.
Cartesian 600x600x900 with a solid mount bed, moving gantry, servos, etc. gantry auto levels to the bed. This is why customizing can be an issue getting up and running.
Thanks for all you do.
Great Video Irv! So much information I didn't know!...Lou
Glad it was helpful!
This filled in so many blanks in my knowledge, thank you so much: you bet I subscribed lol! 37min well invested, took notes so I can practice. The last tip was the most unexpected - what a wonderful innovative way to use 3D printing to recreate this old charming and effective technology (and a lovely picture of your folks)
Wow, Irv that's a great video! Thanks for these tips!
So many tricks I newer knew existed.
"Long time listener, first time caller". Great video with good little tips on how to expand your usual printing universe. תודה רבה!
We have been missing your videos. Thank you.
More to come.
Always your presentation is super. I am using Ultimate Cura 4.12.1 with ANYCUBIC 3D printer. The printed result is not accurate about 0.5% shrinked. Also I am amazing, that the lithograph print can be 3D printer, I tried that, and opened jpg image, then image convert screen appeared. and your nice mom on your lithopane. Thanks again.
Yes I did..!!!! I had learned something. THANKS!! 👍👍👍👍👍
I would like to thank you for an Excellent video. I have learned so much from you. Keep teaching us thanks and much appreciated.
Awesome movie, I look forward to seeing more Cura movies
Awesome!! Fairly new to 3D Printing and I appreciate all your wonderful spread of knowledge. Just awesome!!
Thanks for your videos. You have a very concise yet thorough style. I had been looking for a video on lithophanes. What color filament is the best for lithophanes? Also thank you for your review on the Fokoo Odin 3 which I find to be easy to use and reliable. I thought that I wanted an idex printer but I never could get it to work properly.
great watching this and learning some great things !! thank you
Love the videos. I learn something new, that I can use, every time. Thank you.
Thanks for the comment. My goal is to teach.
Nice video on the infill % in different area's, Because I was thinking about that in cura 4.13.1.... Thanks
Wow that's amazing Sir!!
Thanks lot for your smart knowledge you just saved my time ,life effort ,
Very good explained, thank you!
Thank you, very informative. Just what i need
Another great instructional video. However, adding ABL instruction can be problematic on some printers (CR6SE for example). It is also unnecessary to do ABL every print because the mesh data is saved to memory(if done correctly), from there the printer only needs the z homing to pick up the current height. ABL(mesh) only needs to be done after modest/major changes to the bed surface.
You are correct.
True, but since my prints are not time critical (most of the time) I just do ALB with every print, doesn't hurt, just takes a bit longer to start.
@tradde11 So many ways to do it :-) Fortunally I never have an issue with non sticking prints. I mostly print on a glass bed with some hairspray. Once in a while a good rinse with hot soapy water to clean the bed.
Thanks. I always enjoy your videos. Can’t wait for you to get a cnc machine.
Great video. Thank you for explaining the custom FILL. I wanted to use that for a project, and now I can !! Keep up the great work.
I always watch this guys vids with the playback speed at 1.25. It's a way better experience 😅
Another tip is to do infill at 99% instead of 100%. You actually can save a lot of time on the lithophanes.
Or just increase wall count higher than the picture needs ( like 50).
Looking forward to the next video.
Thanks again for your video Irv, there is always something to learn ;-) I actually experimented with lithophanes last year and printed some nice ones. I printed them curved, put them in a printed frame with hooks so you could hang them on a lampshade. They are great fun and almost no one knows about them and their history.
What pla and color do you find best for lithophanes? Also how difficult is it to get them to be curved?
@@johnhodson8619 this is not an expert advise but I used neutral white that shines nice through and I used a website to create the lithophane that also let you create the curved image. print it vertically. Hang it on a lamp shade and you have a nice photo when lamp is on and just a 3d print when lamp is off. Search for creat litho-hand online. There are several.
great video very useful thanks
Enjoy it! Very nice!
great video, learned alot about cura
Thanks so much for your info
My brain just exploded, 😵💫😵💫😵💫 😉
🤣🤣🤣🤣
I can remember back in the 60s, my dad’s accounting firm used computers to reconcile company finances and write up statements and reports. All done with punchcards.
By the mid 80s I was programming in 7 languages and 3 scripts. Now as an old fart things are progressing at such a rate, but it is all fascinating.
These 3D printers are truly brilliant and the more I watch, the more amazing they get.
Anyway, as soon as I can work out where to hide it from She Who Must Be Obeyed, I’ll grab one, 😂😂😂.
Cheers my friend, I enjoy your informative videos, just wish my head would stop exploding, 🤣🤣🤣.
👏👏👏 👋👋👋 🇦🇺
When I draw a custom thread design on a bottle the bottom of the thread is not clean it has loops on it but the top is perfect. Any idea on what I could do to make the bottom thread smooth ?
Keep on with the videos great job
I hope someday I can learn from you how you 3d print your grand children or yourself .
Thanks a lot.
Super tips! Thanks!
WOW, Great Video!
This was very helpful
Very informative video! I learned a lot. Thank you. I tried the image printing process but I keep on getting an "extraneous surfaces" error as soon as I rotate to 90°. How does one solve this? (I am using Cura 5.1)
Awesome vid! Thanks!
Hi 👋 great content , you have reviewed many many ender printers , prusa and deltas , can you make a video on best dual extruder printer system. Which one is recommended and best buy for money maybe under 20K USD
Great video, now ask to you how to import texture i cura? j not find noting 🙂
I've come to think of Irv as the Mr. Rogers of 3D printing. Howdy neighbor.
That’s awesome. Thanks
Awesome. Thank you for sharing. What type of filament should I use for doing a photo?
I find PLA works just fine.
@@MakeWithTech, I haven't even got the G28 on my settings
@tradde11, I am a total noob. Apparently my son in law did install all of that. I just don't see it. I am learning as I go and am maybe overkeen🤣🤣🤣🙈🙈🙈
@tradde11, at the start up commands where you showed it. It must be there as it's working, but I wanted to add the G29
@tradde11, I have the Creality Ender 5 plus as well as the 3 version 2
I have an Artist-D Pro.
I'm trying to make something similar to the 2 color coin using Cura to slice a FreeCad design. It's giving me fits.
Could you do a video on how to do it with my setup?
Thanks Tom
Try using the IdeaMaker slicer. It makes it much easier to do two color printers on an IDEX printer.
@@MakeWithTech I tried ideamaker but I kept getting an error when I was trying to export the finished g code.
I think that was the problem I had.
Excellent !
Is it possible to slice a big piece with Cura?
Thanks for your videos!
Awesome video. Very informative. Did you know every time someone on TH-cam says Alexa... my Alexa asks did you mean...
Yep. I noticed that while editing.
Thank you for the video, it was very helpful. I have another problem I would like to hear your input on. My Voxelab Aquila printer sometimes will start a job and will arbitrarily decide without any outside interference that the print job has completed. It stops wherever it is moves the nozzle to the back left side of the plate and on the screen says the job has completed. After clearing what was just printed off the build plate I can start the job again immediately and it will print flawlessly. Any thoughts on why this happens? Thank you again for your input I do rely heavily on your knowledge.
Stop triggering my lights! Lol 😂 good video though
When you were talking about reducing blobs I thought you were going to talk about arc welding. I know not all printers will support this though.
That is another strategy that would work if your firmware supports it.
Genial Merciiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii. 🥰😍🤩👍👏👍👏👏👏👏
Great Channel, thanks so much. Can you help please - I am printing a nose for a model glider that is meant to be hollow, but there is an infill at the very bottom(the start of the print)how do I remove it ? I have no infill selected, I am using Cura 4.13.1 and an Ender3 Pro. Thanks in advance, I am new to printing, about one year.
Is Marlin still present in the market? Everyone i know runs Klipper or Repetier on its printer. The last time i used Marlin was a "Configure, Build, Upload, Test, Doit again"-cycle nightmare. :)
27:30 a better way to do this is the plugin arc welder in the marketplace
Hello Dr. Do you know which setting drives the speed of which the wall gaps are printed in Cura?
Some very useful tips , thanks, I can't seem to find any info on how the nozzle point affects printing some have a larger flat arear around the hole than others, I'm going up to 1mm (volcano) and there are different style/shapes not sure what would be best, does a flatter end help squash the filament flat or does a more pointy style make a cleaner finish
Thanks in advance
Thanks a alot it helps me a aloty
G-code isn't even just used for printers, all kinds of machines use it.
Absolutely correct. Thanks for sharing.
helpful!!thanks!!
How come in 18:06 your main object stays in yellow shape when you're editing, but mine turns into grey ghosts color and I can't see what I'm doing. And yours is like constantly in sliced position.
Whenever I try and add a printer based on an existing printer definition the non-print (margin, gutter, etc.) from the original printer shows up in the new printer. Often the non-print area is different because of the method used to secure the print surface. How do you change the non-print (margin, gutter, etc.) area?
Im trying to get a helmet to fit on an ender3 xtender 300x300 bed does not fit but if a pull up a cr10s with same size bed it fits want can i do is it the firmware or the cura slicer thanks
I am trying Cura for the first time but for some reason when i print the file two corners always are square, but they have a 5mm curve radius, the slicer show the radius but when printed it's not there. any suggestions thanks
Any chance you could do a video on the Ender 6? there's a real void of good information on this printer.. cheers
I deleted Cura and reinstalled it, but all my models are very small in size!! What can I do to return the size of my models in Cura to their original size? Thanks
When is Cura 5.0 coming out?
Thank You
32:40: This could also be used for art by creating stamps or plates for textile printing.
Absolutely. Thanks for sharing.
I am not sure that printing use XY is more accurate than using Z. After all, the bead of pla that is laid down is generally wider than the layer height, isn't it?
Maybe it's that you get smoother edges?
It is not about accuracy. It is about the size of the movement, the resolution. When printing in the Z direction the resolution is defined by the layer high. When moving in the X or Y directions the resolution is defined by the stepper motor limitations. While the smallest resolution of a layer is generally .10mm the resolution possible due to a minimum turn of your steppers motors is often 1/10 of that. Here is a good article explaining this in more detail:
pinshape.com/blog/4-things-you-need-to-know-about-3d-printing-resolution-outdated/
@@MakeWithTech ah, I see, thank you for the explanation!
When you have blobs in your print you have realy other problems than arcs. :) Arc Welding is to reduce artefacts on rounded surfaces. This artifacts look like you have a n-edged object instead of a round object.
10:27 Just like all good programmers, you should add a comment as to the meaning of the gcode you add, so next week when you look at the code you'll know what it does! I'm assuming by matching the semicolon and Bed Leveling (3-Point).
The man the legend! shavoa tov. I would really love to see you do a video on the best way to print a ball on a FDM as an experienced printer I can tell you these shapes often catch me off guard and fail. but maybe its just me. The challenge being to print the ball with the least supports possible!
Wow amazing you changed the way I’m going to look at cura the best thing was the marketplace add on with the picture explanation than you
I purchased a new McBook Pro with the M1 Max chip and the Cura Software is not compatible. I am still using my old McBook Pro waiting for Cura to update its software to be compatible to the new 2021 McBook Pro with the M1 chip!
Wait specific Mac chips just don't work with Cura? Really? That's so dumb! Cura works on any combination of any hardware that can run standard Windows 10! Boy, am I glad I don't use Apple products; they always seem to have some fault that isn't present on Windows machines.
The issue is the QT graphics framework that Cura uses. They use V5.x and you need QT 6.x for M1 processor support. Cura v5 will be upgraded to QT 6 but I could not find a date fir the v5 release.
@@MakeWithTech I was trying to make a lighthearted jab at Apple, but that's pretty interesting. Don't see why it doesn't "just work" like it does on Windows but I'm not an engineer of any type so I'll just have to assume there are legitimate reasons that Apple is purposefully gimping their newer products like that.
Apple switched to a new processor architecture that has higher performance with less power consumption leading to lower battery times.
@@MakeWithTech But they seem to have omitted something from the CPU internal code that would have otherwise allowed it to run Cura 4.12 without issue. Who knows what else they omitted? Technology advances, but backwards compatibility is still very important.
All hail DOCTOR VAX!
great info but gotta watch in 1.25x
❤❤❤❤❤❤