The Floor Pan Plan! Abandoned 1956 Chevy Build
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.ย. 2024
- Here's the floor pan plan for the abandoned 1956 Chevy 210 Club Coupe Delray. I'm sharing with you how I'm going to replace the floor pan, the trunk pan, the rocker panels & possibly a portion of the quarter panels. Also, I'm sharing with you how I'm going to separate the body of the car from the frame. This tri five Chevy project is about to get wild.
Subscribe www.youtube.co...
Here's the 1956 Chevy videos I mentioned!
• ABANDONED 1956 Tri 5 C...
Here's some tools, parts, paint, shirts etc.
Chevy t-shirts: amzn.to/3Pprzl0
I'm Not Old I'm Classic T-Shirt: amzn.to/3PapRFj
Craftsman 4.25 hp Shop Vacuum: amzn.to/3Ubu1ja
Media Blasting Cabinets: amzn.to/41CsGDO
Mechanics Gloves: amzn.to/3vn7i9m
Thread File: amzn.to/4aqopHt
Carhartt Jackets: amzn.to/3NnYNkC
Chevy Hats: amzn.to/4ajCiqY
Green Magnetic Work Lights: amzn.to/3GlFtk0
Black Magnetic Work Lights: amzn.to/41i5Gty
Rust-Oleum Satin Black: amzn.to/3RjnQGE
Masking Tape: amzn.to/3N0shVC
Razor Blades: amzn.to/3sO0T6l
Heat Gun: amzn.to/3GhOmer
WD-40: amzn.to/3spVSk6
Brake Parts Cleaner: amzn.to/3PkdWn5
Blue Shop Towels: amzn.to/49ntks4
Purchases made through some store links may provide some compensation to Freeman's Garage.
Please like, comment, subscribe & share!
Thanks for watching!
#freemansgarage
Here's more videos with this '56 tri five Chevy th-cam.com/play/PL6hZXCJfWqs5OCy9OAfU0BW0WzyFPFZdm.html
Thx. I’ll be checking out everything you post on this 56. I noticed that it has a one piece frame rails as does my 57. In the 55 cars they called this a California frame. Not sure about 56’s but in 57 they built them in flint Michigan. My car is a 150 model. Like the ones that were built for nascar team, SEDCO, that went on to win the championship in 1957 with the “ Black Widow “ cars. Enjoy your build buddy. Lovin it 👍🏻✌🏻
Just finishing watching your floor pan plan. I did my fourdoor by starting by bracing body inside passenger compartment, changed outer rocker and dog legs then moved to replacing tail valance under trunk lid then patching trunk (sides and rear ten inches) . After that was done took it off the frame and put floor on frame and rolled it back under car and lowered body ( ropes on back end and steel hss running through cowl supports and worked that off an engine hoist). After floor tacked in took frame out again and mounted body back on my homemade rotisserie. This was done in a garage with a 7-1/2' tall garage ceiling. Floor fit awesome
Good beginning process man. 👍🏻 it’s always good to check your options before diving in, but it’s metal so things can be adjusted along the way if needed. I did my 57 full floor too by lifting it off of the chassis front and rear with chain hoist then removing the floor. Rebuilt the chassis completely and loosely bolted the new floor pan to the chassis, then rolled it back underneath the car. I have already bought a full replacement trunk floor as well. It’s as original but I opted for the one with larger wheel tubs to do a mini tub set up into the frame rails for bigger tires. Your absolutely going about this the correct way. Rebuilding from the ground first is what separates the men from boys. lol. In my humble opinion, that is. Looking forward to you project man. Love it ! 👍🏻✌🏻
Thanks for the nice comment. I’m working on it. Oh the larger tubs. Nice.
I lifted the body off of my frame by using 2 long nylon lifting straps with loops on each end,I used 4x4 boards through the windows and attached the straps to the boards,then connected both straps together above the roof with a clevis and lifted it with my engine crane.then you can roll the chassis out from under the body.then use 4 jackstands to support the body.
If I’m picturing correctly what you described, my engine crane might a little too small.
NO NO NO don't talk about it just do it. I want to see this car on the road before I die. I haven't got alot of time left.
I’m working on it.
@@freemansgarage good man. Your doing a great job.
Do the outer rockers and fix the quarters. They will act as bracing. If you cut the floor 1st the ody will loose all rights because of the rockers
Watch DDs speed shop on the 56 Chevy wagon full floor replacement
I will. Thank you.
DD Speed Shop has done several full floors on tri 5s. Definitely good tips and tricks there.
Remove the doors and trunk lid. Buck the door frames front bottom to rear at bottom of window line using 1x1 x1/8 tube. Buck b Pilar to b pillar diagonally using same tube. Buck the trunk opening at the back seat. Remove front and rear glass. Install steel plate across hood hinges. Tack a 2' long rectangular vertical tube from the center of that plate pointing downward. Tack another tube extending from vertical tube to crest of tunnel. Now, when you lift, the weight of car will not tend to roll the bottom of your toe board forward. Run a tube through cross point of b pillar bucks and cross point ofctrunk opening bucks so it extends to trunk lock area. You now have spent 35 on steel and have something at the rear to lift from. Removing glass will make headliner take half the time.
Take the car to a body shop put on a lift. Detach the body then drop it down to replace the floor then attach the body back to the frame and haul it back to your garage. The cost and safety will be worth it.
I can’t argue with that. Thanks for watching the videos & taking the time to comment.
Cars Inc makes the floor and has available a floor fully welded with all the braces . Before the lock downs, they would bring a stack of the floors to Spring Carlisle meet in PA off the Turnpike. I am hoping they have restarted doing this as labor was an issue for a couple years. The floors are beautiful, the proper thickness and unpainted (no paint to scrape off for welding properly). Check into them before getting one the Asian pressings. Cars makes and welds the floor pans. The floor is actually 2 piece welded together from front to rear. They cost a bit more but you are helping to keep Americans working and instead Asians. Everything from Read Deal Steel is foreign made. When talking to Cars, ask about their other panels and where they are made, they will tell you.
Removing the doors will save on some weight. I am going to make braces with plates on each end to bolt to the A pillar and go from the A to B pillar and an X brace from the A pillar to where the door strikers bolt to the the B pillar. You are correct in bracing prior to removing the body. This way there is no welding on the body itself and the body will be reinforced while the floor is removed. If worried about the distance between the B pillars, another brace could be bolted between them. It should not move. I am not a fan of welding braces. A hardtop has more flex than the sedan. A convertible would be worse but I believe the bracing as proposed would be very sufficient.
Thank you for the time write such a thoughtful comment. I appreciate that. I will look in to Cars.
Jack the whole car up. Build a wooden buck/ cinder block bracing. Set down on rockers. Then Drop the frame down.
I met someone in Kansas who has a number of original 56 wheels, if you are still looking.
I’m not looking anymore. Probably snagging some OE style aftermarket wheels. It’s the shipping cost of used wheels that make originals not make sense for me anymore. Amtrak & greyhound shipping services don’t exists anymore. I appreciate you taking the time to comment.
You have to watch the channel Restoring Christine. It’s a whole series about restoring a 56 Chevy. He’s got videos showing everything you are talking about doing to your 56.
I’m definitely going to look at that. Thanks for mentioning it. I appreciate that.
Your about to open up a world of bs, just patch up what you need to. it's not going to fall off the frame its still strong enough. your going for the patina/rust look leave it as it is. drive around town have your fun then that's it. you'll be working on this car for years. (but if you want this car for views hell go for it) i highly doubt you'll be doing 80mph it that vehicle anyway. i have a 57 and at 65mph i was like yep thats good.
Oh yeah I know what you’re saying. I could put the motor in it now & use the floor pan money for a 4 speed & drive it. I did already cut the trunk floor out though.
The whole time you were spinning your yarn, i could just feel all the chevy moms out there trying to figure out what would calm their excited kids...Maybe its empathy, but my nipples hurt
DD Speed shop floor replace
Thanks
Hey just watch DD speed shop don’t over think it just go for it
Thanks.
Good to see you working on the 56
Me too.
You can find a 4 door door cheap you can use the skin for outside body repair.
That’s not a bad idea.
Richard are you starting this work today?
No. I’m finishing the ‘62 Rambler first. You might see a new ‘56 Chevy video first but the Rambler work is being done first.
This is giving me flashbacks/PTSD!
I believe you. At least for now I'm only going to tackle a portion of what you have done on your car. Just want solid body mounts & to keep the water out. Not really sure how this plan is going to work out but I guess we'll see.
I robbed my method from the 55twoten channel. Used an engine hoist to lift at the firewall to open it up like a clamshell. Then slid in the floor and bolted it to the frame before setting it down.
You can do a ton of metal prep before separating the body and frame by cutting out the floor except where the bracing is. So you still have all the structure that mounts to the frame but have rotten floor out of the way.
What about replacing it in halves? Cut out the worst half first, replace that half and weld it in, then do the second half? Regardless,good luck and looking forward to watching the build.
I've thought of that because you can buy the driver side & passenger side of the floor separately. But the challenge is that the those half pieces don't come with the braces that run underneath the floor. And I need new braces. The new one piece pans can be bought with new braces already welded in place. It's a brain twister thinking about it.
you need to watch montana garage and dd speed shop
I will. Thanks. Watching anything & everything before I start cutting can’t hurt.
Thanks for sorting out the audio big dog. :)
You’re welcome. Thanks for pointing it out.
Save as much original metal as possible because after market shit DON'T FIT.
Agreed.
You ramble way to much, Sorry but it's starting to frustrate me. I would like to see you get stuck into the projects with a little less talk. Cheers Stew
I know. You’re not wrong.
Dude just shut up and do something your waiting my time .. im out of here .. ill go watch dan he knows what he doing and doesn't talk you to death..
Maybe come back later when the project gets a little juicier. Check in every now & then. If not, I appreciate the time you spent watching.