I had the same problem with an aftermarket TPS Sensor. I have pulled my hair out trying to figure out this White Fox. Finally I decided to put an Old OEM Ford Motorcraft TPS Sensor on it and set it, and done a Base Idle Reset, and it runs 100% better like night and day difference. Thanks so much for the video, because it's So Relatable 😎
Same thing happened to me!! I installed a bbk tps sensor and the car was bucking at around 1500-1700rpm, I installed the old tps and worked. Good to have this information.
🔔😎 yes A9L.. BTDT... Got 2 from Oreillys...china.. 1st dead out if box 2nd lasted 3 days. They said it was the car. I demanded a Motorcraft in a sealed package, Made in USA. Works perfectly 👍👍 youre better off with junkyard motorcraft parts than new chinese.👍👍😎
One harsh lessoned I learned with FB's is that if you do the automatic to stick conversion is that when you change over to the manual trans & install the pushstartable TFI module in the distributor you must put a 22 ohm resistor in-line on the IDF circuit which is pin 4 coming off the ECU plug .. On the vehicles already equipped with a stickshift on the drivers side by the brake booster youll find a rectangular block of silicone rubber that usually says 22ohm resistor and one thing about those 22 ohm resistors is they dont like impatient people who induce jumpstarting by not waiting long enough for the battery to charge or trying to start with anything lower than 12 volts.......... Once the resistor fails it fails to "OPEN" so when that happens the IDF circuit gets overpowered which goes into some parts of the system like the pickup module , the TFI module eventually killing them but also causing hiccups and tunning issues when you drive the more than 35-45 mins straight in one clip.........Thats when you get the dreaded hotstart syndrome........ When someone does the manual to auto conversion they must remove the in-line 22 ohm resistor block and put a non-pushstartable TFI module thats computer dwell controlled. If you dont remove the original 22 ohm resistor and you install the CCD TFI in the distributor the CCD TFI module already has a 22ohm resistor built into the TFI module so essentially you double the resistors and when that happens the resistance goes down to 11ohms............. Thanks for taking the time to make the vids........
I just tested my mustang and it is doing the exact same thing. I have had so many gremlins show up after the flood. I’ve also had the breakers in my fuse block stick halfway open and it just flickers going down the road. I’m so aggravated with this car! Thanks bud for this!
My fox was running like a beast and then it just went to hell... Months later and continually fixing the codes pulled and it still isn't right... I feel your frustration.
Really like that you makes these videos, thank you. This issue was a problem in my foxbody but I did some what the same diag to trace the issue and found it was my tps sensor. Now she runs smooth at cruising.
Some people have changed over to a GM style TPS sensor. Anderson Ford Motorsport actually sells an upgrade kit from Holley that includes upgrades for both the IAC and the TPS.
Very important that when you are backprobing the TPS to set the voltage at closed throttle, or test the sweep, etc., That you back probe the wires in the connector, not at the sensor! This will reduce wear and tear on those wires that go into the sensor housing.
Had same issue with some aftermarket TPS sensors. Finally replaced with a new Motorcraft TPS and never had anymore issues…for electrical parts only use Motorcraft parts as a buddy of mine once told me. I tried to go the “cheaper” route and it has bit me more than once. Wish I would of listened along time ago. For me it’s only Motorcraft parts for any of my electrical parts.
Just to add to the discussion, my car did the same thing, seemed like it was hiccuping. The issue was that I installed a new IAC, but inadvertently, installed it with an "adjustable" Gasket! When I caught it, pulled it off, replaced it with a regular gasket... It smoothed right out. I also had a similar issue with the MAP sensor, once I vacuumed it correctly, it too, smoothed out. Bucking, hiccuping, surging... All seem to have several causes. Just my 2¢... Good tech video B!
Thanks for all the hard work you put in to make these videos this was an excellent thing to address that I'll bet hardly anyone has considered when chasing down drivability gremlins. Especially before the Term X/Mega/Micro products hit the market where you had hand held data at your fingertips to monitor something like this. I can't wait for the Retro Fox content to come w/ the quarter horse, really enjoyed the livestream. I'd love to see you and Matt do another skype video where yall sit down and discuss for us N/A guys with H/C/I who are still running the C&L's, Pro-M's, etc., and how quarter horse can further improve drivability on the Retro Fox before you do a power adder on it.
Have a 71 Torino with a 460 and t56.. just picked up a "basket case" 90 foxbody with T5 and got to say, you're killing it with these videos. Thank you for your time and knowledge 🙏
I suggest using an analog voltmeter as opposed to a digital voltmeter. The reason is, the analog voltmeter will react immediately to voltage noise where the digital meter updates evry 1-2 seconds. You're bound to overlook an intermittent/noisy tps when using a digital voltmeter.
Good info... this method also works on the newer cars with drive by wire (electronic accelerator pedal) they use both pedal position and a throttle body sensor. Testing them can be done the same way or with a nice scan tool. Great video Brew2L !!
Amazing , thats exactly what my '91 is doing . Sitting or running in the driveway voltages are perfect . Gotta hook up this road test . Car is bucking terribly , unless I'm giving it some throttle , especially the transition . TPS is only 33 years old . Thank-you ,,, ! ,,, Also checking ground back of the intake ( grrrrraaaah ) ,,, and running a new and separate ground .
This exact symptom is what I’ve been battling for a year, it actually made me not wanna drive my car at all. I’ll have to order one and swap her in. Thank you!
Good info, I had similar issues last year, my car would not.come back to idle at a stop it was hanging at 1500 or higher rpm, check vacuum leaks with the smoke machine, checked tps like 10 times and turned out the bolt on the throttle blade shaft was loose and the blade was sticking partially open on deceleration!
I recently had this problem. If I don't have a buddy to help me, I hooked up my meter to the TPS and turn the key to on, the engine does not have to be running. In fact mine was so bad that it would not run. I slowly move the throttle blade through a range of up to about 50%. I knew this TPS must be bad right at the get go. The reading was way over 1 V (4.19V was the reading). I move the throttle manually and very slowly and I can see by the meter that the voltage was jumping everywhere. Got a new on on order. This made sense with how my car was behaving while driving down the road. It was bucking, but it started and idled okay. I found this video very helpful too.
that me i ready to throw towel my 2016 mustang been sluggish and the whole car vibrates i replace all spark plug and coil and still the same. Thank goodness i came across this i will give this try see if it fix thank you!
You can change the channels on you dash layout. I have tps, cts, iat, closed loop correction, rpm, fan, oil pressure, fuel pressure and tach. Theres like 100 channels u can chose from. Just scroll thru them and arrange them in the order you prefer.
My old roommate had an SN95 back in the day, and I had a Fox around the same time. Neither of us had pre-existing TPS issues, but both of our cars started giving us TPS headaches after putting an aftermarket throttle body on them. We both tried adjustable TPS sensors and there wasn't enough adjustment to fix the issue. I forgot exactly what we did to it (20yrs ago), but I remember we modified the adjustable TPS to give us more adjustment, and that pretty much fixed the issue.
Could this be my problem? I find in most gears it doesn’t wanna feel my input on the gas pedal until a certain point and then it just catches and bucks
A helpful way I’ve found to check that without stripping wires is use a small paper clip or metal bread tie to back probe the connector terminals. Or just take the sensor off and use the Ohms setting on your dvom.
I went through so many tps sensors and throttle bodies. Always set the tps correctly. It came out to be the engine coolant temperature sensor causing all my issues. A lot of people have yet to replace those. The cars still runs with a failed one but they run like crap and they still show on the dash of a fox body but the temperature be way wrong causing the car to run too rich or too lean.
On another note with the light throttle bucking or misfire feeling. I pulled the vacuum hose off the EGR valve, low and behold the car ran great. Just a little FYI for folks chasing the same issue.
A resistance test will prove if it's bad too, I always get a readind on the suspected bad one. Then test new part at store to see the difference. Alot of times ya can't get the specs on these, same with other electrical parts as well. The new one could be bad too, good to find that out before ya get screwd trying to return it.
I'm having the same problems. It runs good and then she doesn't. I keep thinking about it but it looks brand-new so i just throw it off and I have been so focused on vacuum leaks and all the other sensors. She is my first Fox and I have been going crazy for the past 3 weeks, blood boiling. Thanks for the video and something different to look for! Also your videos have been VERY helpful.
i had a tps that the plastic ears instide was busted up a little i thought it would be fine but once in a while the thing would slip right but the throttle body metal (flathead looking ) ear and the car run like shit..finnaly put new tps dont pinch the plastic ears..shove it to .988 volt or so and have fun!!!!!!!
This is weird I just fixed this problem on a friend's car it was doing same thing as you described and end up doing a base idle reset using your video car doesn't miss or have a hard cold start.
I can see this video is 10mos. old but it's spot on. Thanks for the detail. Do have any info on removing the smog system and how to calibrate the electrical side of the smog system to eliminate DTC's? My car is an 89 GT and live in the NW burbs just north of ATL.
Thanks for the info , I have all them problems now for months. Change plugs and wires it was good for a couple of days, then all the same problems idle changing; stumble and misfire and poor drivability. Thanks again.
Thanks for this video brother. My car started surging and idling lean randomly. I check TPS is it’s all over the place at idle but it’s steady at .96 with the car off. Thanks again!
Dudes, get an inline fuse holder, and some of the in line wire taps. One on green one on black. Whenever u want to check it just put your meter into the fuse holder sockets. Just don't ever out a fuse in it, lol.
Make sure your maf harness is in great shape too. If you have done a wire tuck. Make sure your oversize wheels havent rubed thru your splash shield and damaged your harness. Ask me how i know lol!!!
Thank You for the excellent information it's really helpful , I've been having the same issue with My 🦊 and was about to replace the A9P with a remanufactured unit which would have been a waste of time and money ! After testing I verified that the TPS was the culprit so I replaced it with a good used unit and fixed the issue . Sometimes We get mind blocks and forget about doing proper troubleshooting .🇺🇲🇵🇷🦊👍
Sometimes the ECU is the issue, that happened to me 5 years ago, I replaced tps and took a reading with multimeter and there always had 5 volts. So I had a spare a9l and swapped it, and that corrected the tps voltage, closed throttle .90 volts and WOT 4.5V
I have had issues with my 88 gt .was running lean and popping through the intake . Changed IAC valve and this pretty much took care of that . But now car runs rich and runs like crap until it's warm ..and one other issue I'm having is sometimes when you take a sharp corner it will cut out and come back ..feels like you shot car off for a split second.. ..I have changed coil ,TPS ., tFI module . .. fuel pressure is about 50 psi .. even change ECU
Nothing beats Motorcraft original sensors, whether MAF, MAP، TPS, IAC and they are almost all made in Japan, by the way. Get cheap Chinese electronics from Rock or eBay, and you'll end up in dilemma.
🔔😎 Ive never seen a thorough explanation of the fox police engine oil cooler. pros and cons. Some Ford coolers are plumbed into the return heater hose (200*+), and some (like trucks) are plumbed into the lower radiator hose (175*+). I like the heater set up with 10w30 Mobil1 as it warms the oil faster and maintains a consistent high oil temperature. You opinions are highly regarded. Stock 90 with T5.😁 70k miles. thanks.👍👍
I put that on my car but it still bugs out and stops toad at home and then I went in the morning and I move the cable wires fix the tightened up the battery
My sn95 5.0 is having an issue with no throttle response and low idle then stalls. I recently change the intake manifold to a higher rise/more air flow intake. It's fuel injections. Couple people told me to to check tps. Or the intake isn't properly installed. I don't know.
Thanks for the Information. I bet that's the problem I have with my car stumbling. It's been a pain trying to figure it out. Great video keep them coming 👍
Well I ran the wires from the tps into the car hooked up my meter drove around about 15miles it started stumbling again but didn't show up on meter:( so I guess it's not tps lol
Good ol youtube algorithm, Im a year late to seeing this but my combo was 4 years ago i had this same issue on my old v4 holley hp (pre termi x and 5.0 harness days) and i tried new oreilly and motorcraft tps sensors and it never fixed the tps jumping around issues, tps relearn and it would be solid for a mile then start jumping around again, just curious if the issues ever came back on your setup, it ruined the cars drivability and i threw in the towel 3 years ago and its been sitting on jackstands since, i wondered if it was something in my ecu but i never contacted holley or dug further into it, thinking about it now i should have put a meter on the signal wire at the ecu and checked if the voltage jumped around like it showed on my dash but i went through 4 tps sensors in a very frustrating experience lol
man i just changed mine a couple months ago. i could not figure out why my car kept bucking and throwing a check engine light when i shifted. the shifts were rough and i started thinking i just wasnt as good a driver as i thought lol. i changed it and it drives like a totally different car.
NEED HELP: Just bought a 92 lx hatch this week. Car runs good but after driving it for a while, after switching it off, it will turn over but not start up again until it cools off. I’ve already replaced the act and ect sensors, and the fuel filter and still doing the same thing. Any ideas?
It could be the tfi module getting heat soaked after it sits. There are test you can perform to find out for sure. I have a video on my channel just search TFI module and you should find it. Also obviously check it awhile the car is hot and doesn’t want to start.
@@BREW2LFOXBODY thanks brother I’ll do it. I’ve always loved foxbodies but your channel along with foxcast really helped me with making my decision to get this car
Love your videos, Got a 1993 GT , 408 Strocker, and I can start the car and it idles nice for a couple to five minutes. I get this weird hick up and then it dies. That's frustrating, I've changed IPS, TPS, Injectors, fuel pump, fuel filter, new plugs,wires, cap and rotor and it still does it. Any one have any ideas? Please let me know
I alway set mine @.095 - 1.00 volt using a multi meter and have someone push the go pedal to make sure the throttle position sensor working proper from idle to wide open back to idle with multi meter and for the love of God get your butt to work on that fastback 😃gooo dogs
Brew2l. I'm having a similar issue but my cars codes are coming back as 18 and 19. Supposedly a spot connector, and not enough volts to the computer. Any help in finding out where to START looking? Love my car but hate this reduced power, searching idle, timing not working so it back fires sometimes, and running rich smell. Please point me in the right direction
Off Topic Question. Would you ever consider doing a Hydroboost Conversion on the Calypso Clone? Pros and Cons to running a Hydroboost Setup. Obviously the Brakes will be much better. Just wondering. I think LMR even has kits now
That might be one of many issues I have I'm at the point dragging mine out to the shooting range and making swiss cheese then leave title and keys on front seat so nobody can say it's stolen, just another fox body owner that was mad
I had the same problem with an aftermarket TPS Sensor. I have pulled my hair out trying to figure out this White Fox. Finally I decided to put an Old OEM Ford Motorcraft TPS Sensor on it and set it, and done a Base Idle Reset, and it runs 100% better like night and day difference. Thanks so much for the video, because it's So Relatable 😎
Thanks brother
Same thing happened to me!! I installed a bbk tps sensor and the car was bucking at around 1500-1700rpm, I installed the old tps and worked. Good to have this information.
🔔😎 yes A9L.. BTDT...
Got 2 from Oreillys...china..
1st dead out if box
2nd lasted 3 days.
They said it was the car. I demanded a Motorcraft in a sealed package, Made in USA.
Works perfectly 👍👍
youre better off with junkyard motorcraft parts than new chinese.👍👍😎
Most of the 90s 4.6 big cars use the same MA, TPS, MAP, AT, WT, Ev6 injectors, sensors.
Handfulls of parts for $20.😁😁
One harsh lessoned I learned with FB's is that if you do the automatic to stick conversion is that when you change over to the manual trans & install the pushstartable TFI module in the distributor you must put a 22 ohm resistor in-line on the IDF circuit which is pin 4 coming off the ECU plug ..
On the vehicles already equipped with a stickshift on the drivers side by the brake booster youll find a rectangular block of silicone rubber that usually says 22ohm resistor and one thing about those 22 ohm resistors is they dont like impatient people who induce jumpstarting by not waiting long enough for the battery to charge or trying to start with anything lower than 12 volts..........
Once the resistor fails it fails to "OPEN" so when that happens the IDF circuit gets overpowered which goes into some parts of the system like the pickup module , the TFI module eventually killing them but also causing hiccups and tunning issues when you drive the more than 35-45 mins straight in one clip.........Thats when you get the dreaded hotstart syndrome........
When someone does the manual to auto conversion they must remove the in-line 22 ohm resistor block and put a non-pushstartable TFI module thats computer dwell controlled.
If you dont remove the original 22 ohm resistor and you install the CCD TFI in the distributor the CCD TFI module already has a 22ohm resistor built into the TFI module so essentially you double the resistors and when that happens the resistance goes down to 11ohms.............
Thanks for taking the time to make the vids........
Damn I wonder if that's my problem I'm having with the stumbling issues?
I just tested my mustang and it is doing the exact same thing. I have had so many gremlins show up after the flood. I’ve also had the breakers in my fuse block stick halfway open and it just flickers going down the road. I’m so aggravated with this car! Thanks bud for this!
My fox was running like a beast and then it just went to hell... Months later and continually fixing the codes pulled and it still isn't right...
I feel your frustration.
@@mac24seven I totally understand. It’s just to sweet of car to give up on her. I’m gonna keep going on her.
Really like that you makes these videos, thank you. This issue was a problem in my foxbody but I did some what the same diag to trace the issue and found it was my tps sensor. Now she runs smooth at cruising.
Some people have changed over to a GM style TPS sensor.
Anderson Ford Motorsport actually sells an upgrade kit from Holley that includes upgrades for both the IAC and the TPS.
I’ll look into that 👌
Very important that when you are backprobing the TPS to set the voltage at closed throttle, or test the sweep, etc., That you back probe the wires in the connector, not at the sensor! This will reduce wear and tear on those wires that go into the sensor housing.
Had same issue with some aftermarket TPS sensors. Finally replaced with a new Motorcraft TPS and never had anymore issues…for electrical parts only use Motorcraft parts as a buddy of mine once told me. I tried to go the “cheaper” route and it has bit me more than once. Wish I would of listened along time ago. For me it’s only Motorcraft parts for any of my electrical parts.
I love when you bring back the old school intro video. Keep up the great work brother!
Just to add to the discussion, my car did the same thing, seemed like it was hiccuping. The issue was that I installed a new IAC, but inadvertently, installed it with an "adjustable" Gasket! When I caught it, pulled it off, replaced it with a regular gasket... It smoothed right out. I also had a similar issue with the MAP sensor, once I vacuumed it correctly, it too, smoothed out.
Bucking, hiccuping, surging... All seem to have several causes.
Just my 2¢... Good tech video B!
Thanks for all the hard work you put in to make these videos this was an excellent thing to address that I'll bet hardly anyone has considered when chasing down drivability gremlins. Especially before the Term X/Mega/Micro products hit the market where you had hand held data at your fingertips to monitor something like this. I can't wait for the Retro Fox content to come w/ the quarter horse, really enjoyed the livestream. I'd love to see you and Matt do another skype video where yall sit down and discuss for us N/A guys with H/C/I who are still running the C&L's, Pro-M's, etc., and how quarter horse can further improve drivability on the Retro Fox before you do a power adder on it.
I’m hoping we can get together again soon and bring you guys some more tuning insight from the master himself
You post this video as I just dropped my 89 EFI Fox to go get converted to carbed because I just full on gave up on tps crap...
Well F*** it, carb ftw
right carb it'll be great, no headaches.
Have a 71 Torino with a 460 and t56.. just picked up a "basket case" 90 foxbody with T5 and got to say, you're killing it with these videos. Thank you for your time and knowledge 🙏
Since a TPS is a mechanical sensor, they do have a limited lifespan and the contact surfaces wear out, which is what appears to have happened here
I suggest using an analog voltmeter as opposed to a digital voltmeter. The reason is, the analog voltmeter will react immediately to voltage noise where the digital meter updates evry 1-2 seconds. You're bound to overlook an intermittent/noisy tps when using a digital voltmeter.
Good info... this method also works on the newer cars with drive by wire (electronic accelerator pedal) they use both pedal position and a throttle body sensor. Testing them can be done the same way or with a nice scan tool. Great video Brew2L !!
Amazing , thats exactly what my '91 is doing . Sitting or running in the driveway voltages are perfect . Gotta hook up this road test . Car is bucking terribly , unless I'm giving it some throttle , especially the transition . TPS is only 33 years old . Thank-you ,,, ! ,,, Also checking ground back of the intake ( grrrrraaaah ) ,,, and running a new and separate ground .
This exact symptom is what I’ve been battling for a year, it actually made me not wanna drive my car at all. I’ll have to order one and swap her in. Thank you!
Good info, I had similar issues last year, my car would not.come back to idle at a stop it was hanging at 1500 or higher rpm, check vacuum leaks with the smoke machine, checked tps like 10 times and turned out the bolt on the throttle blade shaft was loose and the blade was sticking partially open on deceleration!
I'm having the same issue with my 87. When I shift gears it wants to stay at 2000 rpms but it only does it sometimes. Driving me crazy
I recently had this problem. If I don't have a buddy to help me, I hooked up my meter to the TPS and turn the key to on, the engine does not have to be running. In fact mine was so bad that it would not run. I slowly move the throttle blade through a range of up to about 50%. I knew this TPS must be bad right at the get go. The reading was way over 1 V (4.19V was the reading). I move the throttle manually and very slowly and I can see by the meter that the voltage was jumping everywhere. Got a new on on order. This made sense with how my car was behaving while driving down the road. It was bucking, but it started and idled okay. I found this video very helpful too.
that me i ready to throw towel my 2016 mustang been sluggish and the whole car vibrates i replace all spark plug and coil and still the same. Thank goodness i came across this i will give this try see if it fix thank you!
You can change the channels on you dash layout. I have tps, cts, iat, closed loop correction, rpm, fan, oil pressure, fuel pressure and tach. Theres like 100 channels u can chose from. Just scroll thru them and arrange them in the order you prefer.
My old roommate had an SN95 back in the day, and I had a Fox around the same time. Neither of us had pre-existing TPS issues, but both of our cars started giving us TPS headaches after putting an aftermarket throttle body on them. We both tried adjustable TPS sensors and there wasn't enough adjustment to fix the issue. I forgot exactly what we did to it (20yrs ago), but I remember we modified the adjustable TPS to give us more adjustment, and that pretty much fixed the issue.
I’ve had a TPS with a dead spot about 25% throttle. It took me a long time to figure that out
"fun" how a little part like that throws an EFI system into a tizzyfit..?
@@modelnutty6503 it was a nightmare!
Could this be my problem? I find in most gears it doesn’t wanna feel my input on the gas pedal until a certain point and then it just catches and bucks
Might be
CANADIAN SUPERMAN APPROVES
A helpful way I’ve found to check that without stripping wires is use a small paper clip or metal bread tie to back probe the connector terminals. Or just take the sensor off and use the Ohms setting on your dvom.
Another great video brother that is a really good one.. that is a lot of people’s problem that doesn’t even know
Luv this channel!! This ch. Has saved me soooo much money!!! Thanks
Lmr has a good tip. Use sewing needle or clothes pin rather than butchering tps harness.
Great explanation. Absolutely good to know info. Good go is SVO book.
This video is great. You are a saint
I went through so many tps sensors and throttle bodies. Always set the tps correctly. It came out to be the engine coolant temperature sensor causing all my issues. A lot of people have yet to replace those. The cars still runs with a failed one but they run like crap and they still show on the dash of a fox body but the temperature be way wrong causing the car to run too rich or too lean.
On another note with the light throttle bucking or misfire feeling. I pulled the vacuum hose off the EGR valve, low and behold the car ran great. Just a little FYI for folks chasing the same issue.
A resistance test will prove if it's bad too, I always get a readind on the suspected bad one. Then test new part at store to see the difference. Alot of times ya can't get the specs on these, same with other electrical parts as well. The new one could be bad too, good to find that out before ya get screwd trying to return it.
good stuff guy! sometimes the basics get forgotten. so thank u!
I'm having the same problems. It runs good and then she doesn't. I keep thinking about it but it looks brand-new so i just throw it off and I have been so focused on vacuum leaks and all the other sensors. She is my first Fox and I have been going crazy for the past 3 weeks, blood boiling. Thanks for the video and something different to look for! Also your videos have been VERY helpful.
i had a tps that the plastic ears instide was busted up a little i thought it would be fine but once in a while the thing would slip right but the throttle body metal (flathead looking ) ear and the car run like shit..finnaly put new tps dont pinch the plastic ears..shove it to .988 volt or so and have fun!!!!!!!
I Did A Video On This Same Thing Took Me Forever To Figure It Out Had To Share It Fixed Her Right Up
This is weird I just fixed this problem on a friend's car it was doing same thing as you described and end up doing a base idle reset using your video car doesn't miss or have a hard cold start.
Nice to know! Glad the video helped 🙏
I can see this video is 10mos. old but it's spot on.
Thanks for the detail.
Do have any info on removing the smog system and how to calibrate the electrical side of the smog system to eliminate DTC's?
My car is an 89 GT and live in the NW burbs just north of ATL.
Thanks for the info , I have all them problems now for months. Change plugs and wires it was good for a couple of days, then all the same problems idle changing; stumble and misfire and poor drivability. Thanks again.
Thanks for this video brother. My car started surging and idling lean randomly. I check TPS is it’s all over the place at idle but it’s steady at .96 with the car off. Thanks again!
Thanks for the informative video!
But my Foxbody doesn't have any TPS problems...its a four eye '85 GT, the last Holley 4 barrel Mustang!
Good info. I’m going to have to check mine this way. My ‘89 notchback cuts out at part throttle.
Thank you for sharing this info.
Total Piece of Sxxx 🤬 (TPS)... Great video & awesome information 👍
Thanks for the tip. Appreciate the channel
You make me want to go EFI on my Mustang, but it’s carb’d! Also, I met the guys from Leech Motorsports at the LMR event and they are super cool!🦊
there's everything right with a really well tuned appropriate carburetor.
Dudes, get an inline fuse holder, and some of the in line wire taps. One on green one on black. Whenever u want to check it just put your meter into the fuse holder sockets. Just don't ever out a fuse in it, lol.
THANK YOU BROTHER 🤟🏿👌🏿💯
✊
Changing my TPS fixed my misfire issue. Car would misfire under smooth acceleration. It idled fine and was ok once my RPMs were over 2k.
The throttle sensor cannot lower the voltage. I tried to move it, but it rises above 5 volts and does not decrease. Thanks for the help
My 85.5 stock 5.0 tps wire Sparked/shorted when airfilter Touched Red wire ! Car won't turn over now !
Good info 💪🏼!
Make sure your maf harness is in great shape too. If you have done a wire tuck. Make sure your oversize wheels havent rubed thru your splash shield and damaged your harness. Ask me how i know lol!!!
Thank You for the excellent information it's really helpful , I've been having the same issue with My 🦊 and was about to replace the A9P with a remanufactured unit which would have been a waste of time and money ! After testing I verified that the TPS was the culprit so I replaced it with a good used unit and fixed the issue . Sometimes We get mind blocks and forget about doing proper troubleshooting .🇺🇲🇵🇷🦊👍
Sometimes the ECU is the issue, that happened to me 5 years ago, I replaced tps and took a reading with multimeter and there always had 5 volts.
So I had a spare a9l and swapped it, and that corrected the tps voltage, closed throttle .90 volts and WOT 4.5V
Awesome info. Had this issue with my 90 got a few years ago.
We would divorce our 5th wife for that garage 😂👍🏎✨
I have had issues with my 88 gt .was running lean and popping through the intake . Changed IAC valve and this pretty much took care of that . But now car runs rich and runs like crap until it's warm ..and one other issue I'm having is sometimes when you take a sharp corner it will cut out and come back ..feels like you shot car off for a split second.. ..I have changed coil ,TPS ., tFI module . .. fuel pressure is about 50 psi .. even change ECU
I just switched to carburetor was full injection 88 mustang GT 50car starts but bies
My favorite channel on TH-cam you really help guys like me lol please keep it coming ✊🏼👍🏼
Great info as always man. This will sure help out a lot of folks
Love your garage. is it a kit or did you build the steel trusses ?
Brother, I have had a miss and a buck at part throttle and idle. I am betting this is my issue. As soon as I get back to my car I'm trying it
Man, you are a Gangster!!!!!
I usually set a new Motorcraft unit at .90v idle~4.5v wot and have had good luck
Nothing beats Motorcraft original sensors, whether MAF, MAP، TPS, IAC and they are almost all made in Japan, by the way. Get cheap Chinese electronics from Rock or eBay, and you'll end up in dilemma.
🔔😎
Ive never seen a thorough explanation of the fox police engine oil cooler. pros and cons.
Some Ford coolers are plumbed into the return heater hose (200*+), and some (like trucks) are plumbed into the lower radiator hose (175*+).
I like the heater set up with 10w30 Mobil1 as it warms the oil faster and maintains a consistent high oil temperature.
You opinions are highly regarded.
Stock 90 with T5.😁 70k miles.
thanks.👍👍
Lake Speed Jr. said the ssp oil cooler is 👍👍👍😎 9/24
Good evening not able to get tps voltage below 4.2
I'm having this problem right now on my orange car!!
I put that on my car but it still bugs out and stops toad at home and then I went in the morning and I move the cable wires fix the tightened up the battery
My sn95 5.0 is having an issue with no throttle response and low idle then stalls. I recently change the intake manifold to a higher rise/more air flow intake. It's fuel injections.
Couple people told me to to check tps. Or the intake isn't properly installed. I don't know.
Thanks for the Information. I bet that's the problem I have with my car stumbling. It's been a pain trying to figure it out. Great video keep them coming 👍
Hey nice shirt lol good video as always
That’s the ecu doing that I think, a lot of people having same problem
i dont got a foxbody, but i got an au falcon with a 302, its close enough and this might have useful info
Thanks
Just switched my tps out for this same problem and yes it took me a few week to figure it out
I have an issue where my fox struggles to rev past 2.5 k rpm’s. Almost like a two step effect. Anyone know about this problem?
Well I ran the wires from the tps into the car hooked up my meter drove around about 15miles it started stumbling again but didn't show up on meter:( so I guess it's not tps lol
Great video m, thank you
Good ol youtube algorithm, Im a year late to seeing this but my combo was 4 years ago i had this same issue on my old v4 holley hp (pre termi x and 5.0 harness days) and i tried new oreilly and motorcraft tps sensors and it never fixed the tps jumping around issues, tps relearn and it would be solid for a mile then start jumping around again, just curious if the issues ever came back on your setup, it ruined the cars drivability and i threw in the towel 3 years ago and its been sitting on jackstands since, i wondered if it was something in my ecu but i never contacted holley or dug further into it, thinking about it now i should have put a meter on the signal wire at the ecu and checked if the voltage jumped around like it showed on my dash but i went through 4 tps sensors in a very frustrating experience lol
I literally replaced everything spark plug injectors wires and it ended up being the tps sensor
man i just changed mine a couple months ago. i could not figure out why my car kept bucking and throwing a check engine light when i shifted. the shifts were rough and i started thinking i just wasnt as good a driver as i thought lol. i changed it and it drives like a totally different car.
How do you reset if you dont have a terminatorx
Car poping back through breather box
I'm using a gm tps on my foxbody using holley hp
Help I can’t find one video on how to do my control module
NEED HELP: Just bought a 92 lx hatch this week. Car runs good but after driving it for a while, after switching it off, it will turn over but not start up again until it cools off. I’ve already replaced the act and ect sensors, and the fuel filter and still doing the same thing. Any ideas?
It could be the tfi module getting heat soaked after it sits. There are test you can perform to find out for sure. I have a video on my channel just search TFI module and you should find it. Also obviously check it awhile the car is hot and doesn’t want to start.
@@BREW2LFOXBODY thanks brother I’ll do it. I’ve always loved foxbodies but your channel along with foxcast really helped me with making my decision to get this car
There’s 2 different tps sensors for these cars. I’ve ran into the same issue.
Love your videos, Got a 1993 GT , 408 Strocker, and I can start the car and it idles nice for a couple to five minutes. I get this weird hick up and then it dies. That's frustrating, I've changed IPS, TPS, Injectors, fuel pump, fuel filter, new plugs,wires, cap and rotor and it still does it. Any one have any ideas? Please let me know
ECT changed? BREW2L talks about that in another video of his.
he also talks about vacuum lines being a problem in other videos.
I alway set mine @.095 - 1.00 volt using a multi meter and have someone push the go pedal to make sure the throttle position sensor working proper from idle to wide open back to idle with multi meter and for the love of God get your butt to work on that fastback 😃gooo dogs
Just get a ist digital tps monitor that plugs into it😉
Brew2l. I'm having a similar issue but my cars codes are coming back as 18 and 19. Supposedly a spot connector, and not enough volts to the computer. Any help in finding out where to START looking? Love my car but hate this reduced power, searching idle, timing not working so it back fires sometimes, and running rich smell. Please point me in the right direction
How can one get ahold of you? Stumped with a running issue and cant figure it out
Off Topic Question. Would you ever consider doing a Hydroboost Conversion on the Calypso Clone? Pros and Cons to running a Hydroboost Setup. Obviously the Brakes will be much better. Just wondering. I think LMR even has kits now
Can you drop a link for you shop info like the structure looking to build one of my own Nd I like tie building
That might be one of many issues I have I'm at the point dragging mine out to the shooting range and making swiss cheese then leave title and keys on front seat so nobody can say it's stolen, just another fox body owner that was mad
Just make sure you have a good MAF(housing too) and the right one for A9L
Also, distributors and ignition modules cause big issues.