Showing how to remove bearings from a chainsaw case. I use a temp gun to show how much heat is needed for the bearings to drop out. thanks for watching!!
You don't need a case splitter, a heat gun and a few whacks with a hammer has been my method for nearly 20 years. 300°F + a 2lb persuader + 5 or 6 taps on the crank = split case every time. Same goes for removing and installing bearings, 280 to 300° is the sweet spot regardless of rust and they pop right out, keep the new ones in the freezer for 12 hours, 280° and drop them in and hit them with a few drops of mixing oil and your pretty much done.
Careful with a torch and MAGNESIUM CASES , MAGNESIUM burns extremely hot , bare magnesium lights way to easy with an open flame … just say’n , ive seen 2 machinists make that mistake and they have new garages now .
Shavings will light up easily. I’ve melted magnesium cases and they did not light up. Has to hit a very high temperature (almost white hot) to ignite it. Machinists deal with shavings also, which are very easily lit up.
Is this the same procedure for trimmer/weedeater engines with the bolt on jug split crankcase design? Think echo, shindaiwa, Redmax , Stihl, husqvarna, etc.? I need to replace the bearings and seals in the bottom end. When reinstalling the bearing is there a certain depth the bearing should sit down in the bearing case housing also is this the same for the seals?
@@Banjoandguns Stahls is great to do business with. That is were I get most of my Husky saws. If you like Oregon chain their price is hard to beat. Plus they do work on sawmill blades.
If you can find a great price on a low hour 394 buy it! I see 394s in good running condition selling for what I bought brand new 395s for. The 395xp is well worth the money and can be bought new. Alot can be gained porting a 395xp. I consider both great saws for felling with a 32" light bar.
About the bearings and heat I strated wondering if the steel bearing expands more than the magnesium, it could be more destructive, but I did a quick research and fair enough magnesium expands significantly more than hardened steel per degree of heat so the more you heat it, the looser the fit between the bearing and the case will be. Way to go tinman, you know what you are doing keep up the good work!
My old friend, the saw man always used a pressure washer to clean parts . He memorized every part number for all Husqvarna, if the bottom end was shot he wouldn’t fix it , he had 45 gallon drums full of dead saws . Sadly he has passed, many hours spent in the saw shop with him . 👍🇨🇦
Good video. I've done quite a few like this until I saw Walt warm cases in a turkey cooker. I now use a toaster overseas at 280 to 300 degrees. It heats the case evenly and many time I just tap it on the bench and they fall out. Just remove the rubber parts first.
Yea generally I think you would if it's clean enough those looked fairly good enough to do so but always better safe than oops 😬 lol do t that a few times lol
This will be useful for my Sach Dolmar 120si buy. One of the disassembled saws is noted as having rooted bearings. Did you get the S-D 153 to run? The last video I found on it after going through your post videos for S-D saws after searching for 120's and realising that not just the porting series I've been watching, but you also have a few S-D videos, you commented you think it's an air leak. If it's bad crank seals on the 153, you need 17-28-7 and 17-30-7 double lip rotary oil seals. I'm not sure if you have the Dolmar IPLs there. The bearings on the 153 are interesting, larger and wider on the PTO side rather than a matching pair.
@tinmanssaws 281 Husky. Looking to replace the bearings on it. I think I can ad a sleeve or several washers on the oem puller to make it work. I'm gonna try that
Yep 👍 Tinmans morning tutorial. Makes a lazy man drink more coffee. Good morning food for thought. Thanks got a 372 needs some love. Hope Mama's 😊 feeling good.
I honestly thought it'd take over 400! Never thought to take a thermometer to the cases. I'll gladly trade you some temperatures. It's been 98+ farenheit here for over 2 weeks, and already seen 114. Suppose to be upper 70s Saturday😃 Hobbs NM. The white tin should help when showing the details👍
That was a good video. A couple years ago my son and I picked up a 025 at the dump someone brought there. Apparently they couldn't get it started. I had a little bit of time the other week and had it running good. I hope to find one with bigger problems to work on.
The Lumberjack Jackyl Composition: Jesse James Dupree I was born in the backwoods Of a two-bit nowhere town Fathered up some rock 'n' roll (baby) So your mothers could boogie down I ain't whistling Dixie No I'm a rebel with a groove All around the world the go 'round and 'round When they dig on my new stainless steel sound hell, yeah I'm said a lumberjack oh, baby And I'm gonna cut you down to size I'm a lumberjack now baby And you're the one you're the one that gets my prize When you hear my motor running You know I surely be coppin' a rise Oh! So I'm gonna crank it up down the alley and jack it Woo I'm a lumberjack now baby I'm a lumberjack now baby I'm a lumberjack now baby Ohh I'm a lumberjack now baby But I ain't jacked my lumber baby Since my chainsaw you Whether you like it or whether you don't woo That's the way we like it
After running a ported 395 at hopperstock I am hooked. That saw wanted to be fed wood. It was a beast. Thanks tinman. Great vid ❤️🌲❤️🌲❤️🌲
You don't need a case splitter, a heat gun and a few whacks with a hammer has been my method for nearly 20 years. 300°F + a 2lb persuader + 5 or 6 taps on the crank = split case every time.
Same goes for removing and installing bearings, 280 to 300° is the sweet spot regardless of rust and they pop right out, keep the new ones in the freezer for 12 hours, 280° and drop them in and hit them with a few drops of mixing oil and your pretty much done.
I love your saw builds but I love this stuff even better! Fixing to build a 064 clone saw. Swapping with oem carb and boot. Maybe ignition 😁
Careful with a torch and MAGNESIUM CASES , MAGNESIUM burns extremely hot , bare magnesium lights way to easy with an open flame … just say’n , ive seen 2 machinists make that mistake and they have new garages now .
Shavings will light up easily. I’ve melted magnesium cases and they did not light up. Has to hit a very high temperature (almost white hot) to ignite it. Machinists deal with shavings also, which are very easily lit up.
Great vid Tinman.
Wishing you, the miss-o and the little one continued good health.
A silly build 394 is gona be sweet looking forward to seeing it rip
Bless you and your growing family Tinman, great educational video:)
I have a 288 now. Fresh ported build commin soon.
What about the 590 tinman
How do you heat bearings that have the plastic ball holding ring?
Is this the same procedure for trimmer/weedeater engines with the bolt on jug split crankcase design? Think echo, shindaiwa, Redmax , Stihl, husqvarna, etc.? I need to replace the bearings and seals in the bottom end. When reinstalling the bearing is there a certain depth the bearing should sit down in the bearing case housing also is this the same for the seals?
Hey Tinman, what’s your pick between 394 and 395? Do you think the 395 being more expensive is justified?
Call stahls I think they told me 1100 ish shipped 395xp
@@Banjoandguns Stahls is great to do business with. That is were I get most of my Husky saws. If you like Oregon chain their price is hard to beat. Plus they do work on sawmill blades.
If you can find a great price on a low hour 394 buy it! I see 394s in good running condition selling for what I bought brand new 395s for. The 395xp is well worth the money and can be bought new. Alot can be gained porting a 395xp. I consider both great saws for felling with a 32" light bar.
I noticed the "open face" of the brearing (the side you can see the balls clearly) faces out in the case. Are 372 the same?
i use a socket slightly bigger than crank shaft and sit it flat on bearing and hammer it out
Thanks for the videos!!
About the bearings and heat I strated wondering if the steel bearing expands more than the magnesium, it could be more destructive, but I did a quick research and fair enough magnesium expands significantly more than hardened steel per degree of heat so the more you heat it, the looser the fit between the bearing and the case will be. Way to go tinman, you know what you are doing keep up the good work!
My old friend, the saw man always used a pressure washer to clean parts . He memorized every part number for all Husqvarna, if the bottom end was shot he wouldn’t fix it , he had 45 gallon drums full of dead saws . Sadly he has passed, many hours spent in the saw shop with him . 👍🇨🇦
a do removing bearings same way.its working good
Good video. I've done quite a few like this until I saw Walt warm cases in a turkey cooker. I now use a toaster overseas at 280 to 300 degrees. It heats the case evenly and many time I just tap it on the bench and they fall out. Just remove the rubber parts first.
Sorry. OVeN
Great tips sir thank u
Wouldn’t you put the new one in when it’s hot after you took the old one out
Yea generally I think you would if it's clean enough those looked fairly good enough to do so but always better safe than oops 😬 lol do t that a few times lol
Nooooo, not the 850.
This will be useful for my Sach Dolmar 120si buy. One of the disassembled saws is noted as having rooted bearings.
Did you get the S-D 153 to run? The last video I found on it after going through your post videos for S-D saws after searching for 120's and realising that not just the porting series I've been watching, but you also have a few S-D videos, you commented you think it's an air leak. If it's bad crank seals on the 153, you need 17-28-7 and 17-30-7 double lip rotary oil seals. I'm not sure if you have the Dolmar IPLs there.
The bearings on the 153 are interesting, larger and wider on the PTO side rather than a matching pair.
Good morning Tinman . New subr here.
Do you happen to know of a crank puller tool that supports the inner race, not the outer like the oem one does?
The one I use is the only type of tool I've seen. What are you fixing?
@tinmanssaws
281 Husky.
Looking to replace the bearings on it.
I think I can ad a sleeve or several washers on the oem puller to make it work.
I'm gonna try that
@@BrigT262 my puller works fine on those saws, I've done several 288 bottomed ends on the channel
Man whose hobby is rebuilding machines to cut down trees as fast as possible: "Guys I've got A tree to plant!"
Hey Tinman, do you have any experience with hyway crank bearings? I cannot find any oem for my stihl 360
Yep 👍 Tinmans morning tutorial. Makes a lazy man drink more coffee. Good morning food for thought. Thanks got a 372 needs some love. Hope Mama's 😊 feeling good.
I honestly thought it'd take over 400! Never thought to take a thermometer to the cases.
I'll gladly trade you some temperatures. It's been 98+ farenheit here for over 2 weeks, and already seen 114. Suppose to be upper 70s Saturday😃 Hobbs NM. The white tin should help when showing the details👍
Thank you so much for your wonderful teaching! 👍💪👏
Nice content👌, as always thanks for sharing. Always enjoy your channel. TC Tinman Mahalo🤙🤙🤙
Tin Man, thank you buddy! This worked like a charm!!! Now I have to put it back together!!
I’ll be watching this build on intently for sure. I’ve rebuilt top ends before but never dealt with the crank case
That was a good video. A couple years ago my son and I picked up a 025 at the dump someone brought there. Apparently they couldn't get it started. I had a little bit of time the other week and had it running good. I hope to find one with bigger problems to work on.
The bench looks great and I'm pretty fond of the backdrop. A full shelf of big husky's makes me happy. Lol
Finally understand fidget spinners after the explanation about good versus bad bearings
Good instructional video snazzy temp gun😂
Thanks Tinman. Another helpful video 🪓
Great tips buddy love this build goin to be awesome.
Thank you for your hard work Tinman you're the best!
Very helpful, Tinman!
Looks great thanks for all your hard work
Shop is looking good
Thank s
The Lumberjack
Jackyl
Composition: Jesse James Dupree
I was born in the backwoods
Of a two-bit nowhere town
Fathered up some rock 'n' roll (baby)
So your mothers could boogie down
I ain't whistling Dixie
No I'm a rebel with a groove
All around the world the go 'round and 'round
When they dig on my new stainless steel sound hell, yeah
I'm said a lumberjack oh, baby
And I'm gonna cut you down to size
I'm a lumberjack now baby
And you're the one you're the one that gets my prize
When you hear my motor running
You know I surely be coppin' a rise
Oh! So I'm gonna crank it up down the alley and jack it
Woo
I'm a lumberjack now baby
I'm a lumberjack now baby
I'm a lumberjack now baby
Ohh I'm a lumberjack now baby
But I ain't jacked my lumber baby
Since my chainsaw you
Whether you like it or whether you don't woo
That's the way we like it
Cannot wait to see the progress on the painting. I am sure it's as good as the porting of saws...
View 32 Wooohoo!! 🎚🇺🇸⚙️🚲⚙️👍🏼💯👊🏼. Thanks Tinman.