Hey, I had same issue too, at the same cells connector ! Thanks a lot. I did a welding seam, and now all is OK !!! PS: I had some problems with screws: they broke when dismantled due to oxidation. I replaced them with stainless steel brand new screws. :-))
Thanks for this! I have this same problem in mine and plan to take it to a friend with a battery spot welder to try fixing... but man - stacked up like that it will still take a bit of planning to get it right!
I have had success with releasing the cell with the broken tab, letting it drop out, then spot welding longer strips or even just soldering some large strips of copper braid, which can slide back through and soldered to the PCB. Using a really hot iron made it quick and easy
I definitely recommend sticking your cells down before it becomes an issue I have a mate with a s18 and I had to do the same for him when his cell strip snapped His was on the pack on the other side also in the middle of the pack As far as I can tell it only effects the front packs
@@The-StrangaI think it’s all caused by a piece of plastic that sticks out on the inside of the plastic shell. When the wheel tips on its side the whole weight of the wheel is pressing onto the battery packs across one small plastic circle. I’m not sure if it’s an artifact left from the mold used or what but I just filed those things down on both sides and my molicell packs are still going strong after over 1k miles and countless hard tumbles. Still thinking about doing something similar to protect the packs from potential vibration damage later on. Thanks for sharing! 🤙
Thanks for video. Is it possible that I have the same problem in both front batterypacks? When I connect both rear ones, S18 charges normaly to 84V. But when i connect one front or both, the charger flashes green and red, but doesnt charge. Thanks for advice.
What's the voltage of the front vs the back? As far as I cam tell the rear packs are the main packs so it won't usually work with out them If I was you I would try to match the voltage of the front pack to the rear if there close You can do that by ether charging up with just the rear connected or riding I to pull them down with just the rears connected
If there are at a different state of charge (different voltages) when you connect them they will keep tripping the over current in the pack and storing the charge Try to get them within a volt before connecting for best results But if one or both the front packs are under 60v it's probably the nickel strip is broken and if it's go no voltage your bms or fuses are poped
@@The-Stranga 72,5V left front 72,3V right front 36,7+36,9=73,6V rear I will try to discharge the rear ones to +/- same voltage and then charge them all I suspect the nickel strip also because EUC world was showing me a battery resistance of 0.16-0.18ohm and now the resistance is about 0.26-0.27ohm
@Daniel Duchan interesting I would say nickel strip too it must be a really weak connection if it's sort tablet there and notcits tricky to find the break if it helps its usually the middle of one of the front packs
Helpful video dude! Sad to say I've found this because my ks18 wont turn on😢 both my front packs read 145 but one rear pack reads 88 and the other is 65. Think this could be the issue?
I'm not sure your reading you multimeter right as the rear packs should be between like 32v and 42 and the front should be between like 62v and 84v or lower if there's a problem Only check the main connectors not the little ones in the middle
@@The-Stranga yaa my bad i had the multimeter on the wrong setting. Both my large packs are 70. Then one small is 40 and the other one is 32. I saw your other video where you replaced the fuses but my small pack doesn't have the same fuses.
Arr dam It may not be the fuses If one is at 32v it maybe fully disk charged It maybe worth getting a 36v charger so 42v fully charged And try and charge the pack up separately so the two back packs match Just be careful But thats what I would do as the difference between your packs is massive They're maybe an issue with one of your packs tho still for it to get so out You may even have a dead cell 🤔
I figured it out cheers dude! I disconnected the large packs and tried charging just the smaller packs, they balanced themselves and we were good to go. Not sure how they got so out of wack. I'll test them every so often now to check they are balanced.
I bought a ks s18 for cheap as it didn't charge. I checked all packs and the front left was 2v below the others. Only connecting it to the board to charge it separately didn't work, the wheel beeped and flashed. So I rode carefully with only the other packs, it got to z reasonable difference and I was able to go from 74v to 79.5v on the app. It stopped charging again, and there is now about 1v of difference between Front right/both rear in series and the front left. I think I'll go ride a little bit tomorrow to reduce the voltage difference and try again to charge. If I can get it to charge fully this way, do you think it will come back to being bad ? Wheel is 6000km, the guy said it worked great until he left it for two months sitting as he bought an electric scooter. There is no indication of any other issue and the wheel rides fine ..
Whenever I change packs I always keep it as close as possible If I was you Just leave the top case unscrewed while you ride and check it as you ride and when it's super close then connect the other pack It's definitely easiest way to get them right For one pack to slowly drain over the others would mean you have a bad cell so it will happen again BUT I would say 70% chance that it's the nickel strip on one of the cells around the middle I had similar simptoms as it was braking The cells need to be stuck down I have a video somewhere of it
I would personally say there very waterproof they use good seals and I have never had an issue with water damage I have put over 15000km on my s18 now and blown a few mother boards from pushing them abit to hard 😭 but never any water issues I have also ridden in rediculous rain where you can only see a few metres in front and ridden through water that has been above pedal hight quite afew times Mine is the solid axle s18 I'm not sure how the hollow axle will go but I'm sure it's still quite good
@@The-Stranga Nice! Ty for the reply. Mine is the hollow motor one. With the new aluminum sliders. I was a bit concerned cuz the battery packs don't seem that water resistant when looking from a perspective of a person who did not look it from the inside. Also, I got in a rain a few days ago and the light sensor thing got all fogged up from the inside. And I could see some water on the front battery cables tied to the board on the front! Also, the rubber cap on top of the charging port on my s18 don't seem to be that effective... water drips a little to the inside, did not reach the charging port... but got me worried!
The charging point aren't live on the s18👌🏼 so don't stress there unless you plug it in wet but yer that whole area is definitely easy access to the main board Definitely want to keep that rubber thing down You should be fine with rain and deep puddles as long as you don't just stand in them and my rule was always avoid it if in over the pedals But I have gone deeper quite a few times and gotten soaked shoes 😅
Hey, I had same issue too, at the same cells connector ! Thanks a lot.
I did a welding seam, and now all is OK !!!
PS: I had some problems with screws: they broke when dismantled due to oxidation. I replaced them with stainless steel brand new screws. :-))
Nice don't forget the stick the cells down too 👌🏼
I had a mate and both sides snapped
Such a disign flaw 😭
Thanks for the video, wish I knew about this earlier, I have over 5,000 miles on my s18 and 4 dead battery packs laying around.
Shit 4 is alot I hope you glued your current ones
Thanks for this! I have this same problem in mine and plan to take it to a friend with a battery spot welder to try fixing... but man - stacked up like that it will still take a bit of planning to get it right!
I have had success with releasing the cell with the broken tab, letting it drop out, then spot welding longer strips or even just soldering some large strips of copper braid, which can slide back through and soldered to the PCB. Using a really hot iron made it quick and easy
Thank you for your video, it is very clear. I hope I will never need it for my S18, but in case it will be useful
I definitely recommend sticking your cells down before it becomes an issue
I have a mate with a s18 and I had to do the same for him when his cell strip snapped
His was on the pack on the other side also in the middle of the pack
As far as I can tell it only effects the front packs
@@The-StrangaI think it’s all caused by a piece of plastic that sticks out on the inside of the plastic shell. When the wheel tips on its side the whole weight of the wheel is pressing onto the battery packs across one small plastic circle. I’m not sure if it’s an artifact left from the mold used or what but I just filed those things down on both sides and my molicell packs are still going strong after over 1k miles and countless hard tumbles. Still thinking about doing something similar to protect the packs from potential vibration damage later on.
Thanks for sharing!
🤙
Thanks for video. Is it possible that I have the same problem in both front batterypacks? When I connect both rear ones, S18 charges normaly to 84V. But when i connect one front or both, the charger flashes green and red, but doesnt charge. Thanks for advice.
What's the voltage of the front vs the back?
As far as I cam tell the rear packs are the main packs so it won't usually work with out them
If I was you I would try to match the voltage of the front pack to the rear if there close
You can do that by ether charging up with just the rear connected or riding I to pull them down with just the rears connected
If there are at a different state of charge (different voltages) when you connect them they will keep tripping the over current in the pack and storing the charge
Try to get them within a volt before connecting for best results
But if one or both the front packs are under 60v it's probably the nickel strip is broken and if it's go no voltage your bms or fuses are poped
@@The-Stranga
72,5V left front
72,3V right front
36,7+36,9=73,6V rear
I will try to discharge the rear ones to +/- same voltage and then charge them all
I suspect the nickel strip also because EUC world was showing me a battery resistance of 0.16-0.18ohm and now the resistance is about 0.26-0.27ohm
@Daniel Duchan interesting
I would say nickel strip too it must be a really weak connection if it's sort tablet there and notcits tricky to find the break if it helps its usually the middle of one of the front packs
Helpful video dude! Sad to say I've found this because my ks18 wont turn on😢 both my front packs read 145 but one rear pack reads 88 and the other is 65. Think this could be the issue?
I'm not sure your reading you multimeter right as the rear packs should be between like 32v and 42 and the front should be between like 62v and 84v or lower if there's a problem
Only check the main connectors not the little ones in the middle
@@The-Stranga yaa my bad i had the multimeter on the wrong setting. Both my large packs are 70. Then one small is 40 and the other one is 32. I saw your other video where you replaced the fuses but my small pack doesn't have the same fuses.
Arr dam
It may not be the fuses
If one is at 32v it maybe fully disk charged
It maybe worth getting a 36v charger so 42v fully charged
And try and charge the pack up separately so the two back packs match
Just be careful
But thats what I would do as the difference between your packs is massive
They're maybe an issue with one of your packs tho still for it to get so out
You may even have a dead cell 🤔
I figured it out cheers dude! I disconnected the large packs and tried charging just the smaller packs, they balanced themselves and we were good to go. Not sure how they got so out of wack. I'll test them every so often now to check they are balanced.
I bought a ks s18 for cheap as it didn't charge. I checked all packs and the front left was 2v below the others. Only connecting it to the board to charge it separately didn't work, the wheel beeped and flashed. So I rode carefully with only the other packs, it got to z reasonable difference and I was able to go from 74v to 79.5v on the app. It stopped charging again, and there is now about 1v of difference between Front right/both rear in series and the front left. I think I'll go ride a little bit tomorrow to reduce the voltage difference and try again to charge. If I can get it to charge fully this way, do you think it will come back to being bad ? Wheel is 6000km, the guy said it worked great until he left it for two months sitting as he bought an electric scooter. There is no indication of any other issue and the wheel rides fine ..
Whenever I change packs I always keep it as close as possible
If I was you
Just leave the top case unscrewed while you ride and check it as you ride and when it's super close then connect the other pack
It's definitely easiest way to get them right
For one pack to slowly drain over the others would mean you have a bad cell so it will happen again
BUT I would say 70% chance that it's the nickel strip on one of the cells around the middle
I had similar simptoms as it was braking
The cells need to be stuck down
I have a video somewhere of it
hi, good day.
what glu did you use?
I just used hot glue and it's still Woking well haven't had any issues since the fix
Hey! Since you opened the battery packs... how waterproof do you think they are? And what about the wheel in general? Water resistant enough?
I would personally say there very waterproof they use good seals and I have never had an issue with water damage
I have put over 15000km on my s18 now and blown a few mother boards from pushing them abit to hard 😭 but never any water issues
I have also ridden in rediculous rain where you can only see a few metres in front and ridden through water that has been above pedal hight quite afew times
Mine is the solid axle s18 I'm not sure how the hollow axle will go but I'm sure it's still quite good
@@The-Stranga Nice! Ty for the reply. Mine is the hollow motor one. With the new aluminum sliders.
I was a bit concerned cuz the battery packs don't seem that water resistant when looking from a perspective of a person who did not look it from the inside.
Also, I got in a rain a few days ago and the light sensor thing got all fogged up from the inside. And I could see some water on the front battery cables tied to the board on the front! Also, the rubber cap on top of the charging port on my s18 don't seem to be that effective... water drips a little to the inside, did not reach the charging port... but got me worried!
The charging point aren't live on the s18👌🏼 so don't stress there unless you plug it in wet but yer that whole area is definitely easy access to the main board
Definitely want to keep that rubber thing down
You should be fine with rain and deep puddles as long as you don't just stand in them and my rule was always avoid it if in over the pedals
But I have gone deeper quite a few times and gotten soaked shoes 😅