Hey Dean, I sure dig old tools, this saw is going to be cool and functional, enjoying your progress. Thanks, buddy, for the kind words, I do feel much better and am slowly getting back in the shop.
nice bit of striptease Dean😄😄😄😄👍👍👍👍 its going to make a great saw, can't beat the old Donkey saw I have that problem not just at an intro usally most of the time, dead from neck up🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣👍👍👍👍 see you next time atb Kev
Wonderful project Dean. I'm looking forward to progress on this. I still have a collection of Whitworth sockets and spanners from the days when I had my BSA A65L and Triumph 6T. I think my MGA still had a few BSW threads here and there. Cheers, Peter.
Great work mate.........Always a challenge pulling something apart you've never touched before. I thought some of the threads would be BSF but they looked whitworth. Well worth getting a coat of hammer tone green onto it.........I think it will come up really good. It's also a very handy thing to have in the workshop as well. Looking forward to the next instalment.......
@@OzBSABantams thanks mate, it was a learning curve but that's a good thing. Cleaning it up, it's in really good condition. Shouldn't be too long before we are putting it back together. Best wishes, Dean.
Brilliant film and not at all dry. Great to see you dismantling the saw. Good to see Grandads tools in use. I think you could make a new bush from black acetal if the bronze is too dear.
@@carlwilson1772 thanks very much. I couldn't do the job without Grandad's tools. Such good quality. I have my eye on a bit of bronze but the Acetal option could definitely work.
There is the possibility that there's an off the shelf bushing somewhere that will do... It's usually cheaper to find one than make one. And, as Dibnah found out, touring with his traction engine... Bushes made from an unsatisfactory material can let you down. He had one fail in Scotland, IIRC (made from a piece of brass he had lying around) Even SKF, better known for antifriction ball, roller, etc, bearings supply plain bushings...
Some things many users of these saws don't know ( in my experience) 1) The blade cuts on the forward stroke, so point the teeth forward (contrary to Wicksteed saw practice) 2) The way the motor runs is crucial. Viewed from the pulley side, the motor runs clockwise. 3) keeping the dashpot filled with appropriate oil, and setting the damper adjustment correctly affects cutting efficiency and blade economy. (assumes the damper components are still OK, after decades in use...) The reasons? 1) Put the blade in backwards, the pressure on the forward stroke is on the back of the teeth. Those square guides are angled the way they are for a reason... downward, relative to the material being cut... 2) with the pulley running in the direction described, the crankpin is "pushing" the saw bow downward on the cutting stroke, just like manual sawing. 3) the damper piston is rising a little in the dashpot on the forward stroke, and preventing, if set right, the saw blade remaining in contact with the material being cut, or at least minimizing the pressure on the blade on the return stroke. 4) fit the blade the wrong way round, cutting on the return stroke, and with the motor direction reversed, the crank's tending to lift the saw bow up when the blade's cutting... Somewhere, I have half a dozen machine hacksaw blades in the garage. 12" x 1" , I think... (possibly 14" ) they can be so useful for scraping, deburring, etc. (or opening up your wooden kitchen knife block for a new, broader bladed knife than previously occupied that space... ) Wicksteed saws cut on the return stroke... Experience taught me that whatever saw there is in the shop, you'll find the blade installed wrongly at some time... Wicksteed people put Rapidor blades in wrongly, and vice versa... Q&S I've used so seldom, I just cannot remember...
@@boblawson1006 absolutely brilliant information, thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge. I will take time to absorb the details and I'm sure many people will benefit from this. Best wishes, Dean.
@@retromechanicalengineer Just check I'm right, Dean. I know what I was taught nearly 60 years ago. I also know that sometimes, you accept info from someone you respect as being "gospel" and they can be wrong... Yet another thing I know is that destroying someone's strongly held, but wrong, beliefs by showing them the manual... damages your working relationship with them, however diplomatically you attempt to deal with it... Even proving empirically with a stopwatch that set up correctly, a saw cuts a given workpiece faster doesn't gain you friends... I got more blunt blades to make hand tools with, of course... One thing I didn't mention, was that cutting (fairly) thin walled tube was one situation where blade reversal may be beneficial. A blade, correctly oriented will "bite" tube often can't be clamped tight enough to resist rolling when the blade bites.....Using a worn blade reversed, works... (or can work) take care when trying. HSS blades disintegrate. Old HCS and bimetal were more forgiving...
Here
Lightning fast Cain
Terrific video Dean , it’s really nice that Carl and yourself appreciate the guidance and passion your grandad imparted. Well done , take care 👍👍
@@paulhewitt1488 thanks Paul.
Hey Dean, I sure dig old tools, this saw is going to be cool and functional, enjoying your progress. Thanks, buddy, for the kind words, I do feel much better and am slowly getting back in the shop.
@@montana2strokeracer thanks Dale, I'm looking forward to getting this thing done. I'm planning a workshop revamp over the winter. Best wishes, Dean.
not dry at all. Keep em coming
@@matthewhibbs9602 thanks very much
A cool project.
@@cainbeeping8480 thanks Cain. I wish it were finished...
Good to see your starting to tackle 'The Beast'.
@@InTheShedUK too late for regrets now Ian..thanks for watching!
nice bit of striptease Dean😄😄😄😄👍👍👍👍
its going to make a great saw, can't beat the old Donkey saw
I have that problem not just at an intro usally most of the time, dead from neck up🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣👍👍👍👍
see you next time
atb
Kev
@@MrFactotum thanks Kev, I'm looking forward to using it.
Wonderful project Dean. I'm looking forward to progress on this.
I still have a collection of Whitworth sockets and spanners from the days when I had my BSA A65L and Triumph 6T. I think my MGA still had a few BSW threads here and there.
Cheers, Peter.
@@petermckee1061 thanks Peter, I'm looking forward to seeing it run properly. Best wishes, Dean.
Cracking stuff Dean, its virtually the same as Pauls at Haxby shed, watching with interest!
Phil
@@philhermetic thanks, Phil. It's in remarkably good condition all things considered. They made them well.
Great work mate.........Always a challenge pulling something apart you've never touched before. I thought some of the threads would be BSF but they looked whitworth. Well worth getting a coat of hammer tone green onto it.........I think it will come up really good. It's also a very handy thing to have in the workshop as well. Looking forward to the next instalment.......
@@OzBSABantams thanks mate, it was a learning curve but that's a good thing. Cleaning it up, it's in really good condition. Shouldn't be too long before we are putting it back together.
Best wishes, Dean.
Brilliant film and not at all dry. Great to see you dismantling the saw. Good to see Grandads tools in use. I think you could make a new bush from black acetal if the bronze is too dear.
@@carlwilson1772 thanks very much. I couldn't do the job without Grandad's tools. Such good quality. I have my eye on a bit of bronze but the Acetal option could definitely work.
There is the possibility that there's an off the shelf bushing somewhere that will do... It's usually cheaper to find one than make one.
And, as Dibnah found out, touring with his traction engine... Bushes made from an unsatisfactory material can let you down. He had one fail in Scotland, IIRC (made from a piece of brass he had lying around) Even SKF, better known for antifriction ball, roller, etc, bearings supply plain bushings...
@boblawson1006 I will certainly check Bob.
Some things many users of these saws don't know ( in my experience)
1) The blade cuts on the forward stroke, so point the teeth forward (contrary to Wicksteed saw practice)
2) The way the motor runs is crucial. Viewed from the pulley side, the motor runs clockwise.
3) keeping the dashpot filled with appropriate oil, and setting the damper adjustment correctly affects cutting efficiency and blade economy. (assumes the damper components are still OK, after decades in use...)
The reasons? 1) Put the blade in backwards, the pressure on the forward stroke is on the back of the teeth. Those square guides are angled the way they are for a reason... downward, relative to the material being cut...
2) with the pulley running in the direction described, the crankpin is "pushing" the saw bow downward on the cutting stroke, just like manual sawing.
3) the damper piston is rising a little in the dashpot on the forward stroke, and preventing, if set right, the saw blade remaining in contact with the material being cut, or at least minimizing the pressure on the blade on the return stroke.
4) fit the blade the wrong way round, cutting on the return stroke, and with the motor direction reversed, the crank's tending to lift the saw bow up when the blade's cutting...
Somewhere, I have half a dozen machine hacksaw blades in the garage. 12" x 1" , I think... (possibly 14" ) they can be so useful for scraping, deburring, etc. (or opening up your wooden kitchen knife block for a new, broader bladed knife than previously occupied that space... )
Wicksteed saws cut on the return stroke... Experience taught me that whatever saw there is in the shop, you'll find the blade installed wrongly at some time... Wicksteed people put Rapidor blades in wrongly, and vice versa... Q&S I've used so seldom, I just cannot remember...
@@boblawson1006 absolutely brilliant information, thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge. I will take time to absorb the details and I'm sure many people will benefit from this. Best wishes, Dean.
@@retromechanicalengineer Just check I'm right, Dean. I know what I was taught nearly 60 years ago. I also know that sometimes, you accept info from someone you respect as being "gospel" and they can be wrong...
Yet another thing I know is that destroying someone's strongly held, but wrong, beliefs by showing them the manual... damages your working relationship with them, however diplomatically you attempt to deal with it...
Even proving empirically with a stopwatch that set up correctly, a saw cuts a given workpiece faster doesn't gain you friends...
I got more blunt blades to make hand tools with, of course...
One thing I didn't mention, was that cutting (fairly) thin walled tube was one situation where blade reversal may be beneficial.
A blade, correctly oriented will "bite" tube often can't be clamped tight enough to resist rolling when the blade bites.....Using a worn blade reversed, works... (or can work) take care when trying. HSS blades disintegrate. Old HCS and bimetal were more forgiving...