That guy is is in damn good shape! Never gave up and paddled through the whole gigantic set! Made every duck dive through that massive white water. RESPECT!
Its not that crazy, its just surfing shape. When you are inside like that you'd be surprised how long you can paddle for - adrenaline helps plenty. I got caught inside at impossibles @ indo this year and it wasn't fun. But you just keep paddling.
+ostraspt Of course you can get caught inside somewhere with a channel, teahupoo, pipeline, etc. Rogue sets and waves happen all the time. Look up "caught inside mentawaii"
Once he'd committed there's no backing out, can't just call time-out if you don't like the way it's going. Epic paddle out, that is an arm\shoulder killer.
Looking out the window - that's a paddlin'. Staring at my sandles - that's a paddlin. Going out during a huge set - you better believe that's a paddlin'!
Gnarly man. This was actually motivational lol I'll probably remember this the next time I'm paddling out on a big day. Maybe it's not impossible! Just duckdive efficiently and keep on paddling
I would say it's not the paddle so much as the duck-diving and positioning that impresses me. That was a 2:30 paddle. We could all sprint paddle for 2:30. Heck, I'd be grateful for that in big waves. I've had 30 minute paddle outs many a time. On a short board against 12' - 16' waves with no rips. You just settle in and keep going. But that duck-diving was PRO. And the lines he took. My hat off to him.
I could sprint paddle for ten minutes back in the day. Stay in the surf for six hours. I went out last week and after 3 minutes through constant white water sets I was in rough shape. Don't know how long it took to get out but seemed like forever, couldn't have been more than 6 minutes. Sat outside for fifteen minutes before even thinking of paddling for a wave. Getting old blows.
I did this sort of thing when I was younger and it always was so much fun. The vibrancy, the taste of seaweed and salt. The frizzle and popping of the eggbeat. It was joyous! Ducking under waves before break no problem. If in the splatter, let your body go limp. Wait, and wait briefly after surfacing to not inhale foam. Inhaling foam is like swallowing 6 egg yokes at once.
.....and furthermore...In larger waves...and i mean huge.......curling into a ball is much safer as letting the body be limp leaves arms and legs exposed to violent forces.......allowing injury to occur easily.
I have been caught like this before and it totally and completely sucks. I would have spent the next 30 minutes sitting outside resting my rubber arms😂😂
Because the sweep is a pain. I paddled from palm beach in an attempt to get out at Burleigh... one wave to get through i abandoned board and dove, board in two parts. Paddled the arse end in and a clubbie gave me the rest of it. Gutted.
The worst is when you start getting close to the line up, and then you see everyone start paddling like crazy away from you meaning theres a huge clean up set coming in haha
mate am I correct in assuming that this places name 3rd letter is T.and if so ,have you ever seen the the wave that breaks 3 or 4 hundred metres to the right,saw it in 91 but too nervous to surf,me lived in Indo for 5 years and other surfing joints,but me never seen a better wave., the 3rd letter to this break is maybe P, is I correct or stoned
Yeah you're in the right spot. I've paddled out where you are talking about and had some screamers come through, pretty rare. it does break pretty much on the rocks though and seen a few bloodied heads.
This is the reason I joined The waterpolo team and the swim team in high school! To get in really good padding shape. I played 8 seasons and it helped tremendously when I began to surf bigger waves.
I know that spot, actually my recollection is that it could be me. A lot of sand moved off the reef from previous winter making the left beach break absolutely hollow for spring and summer. The main reefbreak does what you see here in those conditions. West Coast rocks, just gotta make it to the lineup! Hope I haven't disrespected the spot, just felt reconnected after while out of the water. Nice video and great narration IMHO, thanks again for posting this.
Really? What’s the name of the spot then? Your comment is 2 years old, this - original - vid was published before 2013. Just curious what spot it is. Lemme know if you don’t know, I’ll help you out, because I have surfed there many many many times and your name rings no bell
@@rossrcfallacaro3422 damnn gotta call him out like that lmfao. you either remember it was you or it wasnt you bro, probably the worst timed paddle out of ur life
For a start it's not massive. Looks like he paddled out from bells without watching the set coming from out off Southside then tried to cut across to winki without paddling far enough out and around. Held onto board so he wouldn't end up on winki button. In experience poor decisions. Lucky the other guys didn't have to fish him out. Probably should have never been out in that swell.
reminds me of being swept from a Bells paddle out to a Winkipop Button and then a bit further. Why would you not mention the break? ...No secrets these days
Well done indeed, a solid effort there. I was never a good surfer when I was younger but i had a strong duck dive and was ok at paddling - that guy blows me out the water
Nice I have not had A LOT OF BIG DAYS at T%odos but when booted from my parents house from my Mom finding a nice girl in my bed one morning I met the night before at a concert at an outside ampletheater the night before. That and having to ask her her name when she asked who it was did it. My Dad just shruged his shoulders with a grin downstairs. The begining of summer between JR and Senior year of High School. I loaded my board some dive gear (not much) and drove south to an abandon house at the near edge of a small cliff overlooking a nice right point break into a cove wirh lobster. Reminds me of the Green Day Song Paradise. It was back then and kind of still is . K38 and a 1/2 I guess. Good times with cheap great food and beer and the best atequila I know of. A block wall and steel gate to lock my first 4x4 in and a big fire pit. Lots of off roading in Baja .! . It worked but(not like the FullBronco I call a luxury Prerunner I have built now but it looked tuff. now I have morewheel travel in my suspention than a Raptor and a internal balanced full rolller 408 DONE RIGHT by Greg G down in Santee . A lot of work making it Commiefornia legal Heis (the last Master Ford builder I have read in reviews. Nice! King Shocks II found out I bough be built from Brett King. Yes looking at the pics my girl took at the Mint 400 Contingency a couple years ago just after it I see a close picture of BJ Baldwin! I asked when did you take this? She said When you were on your mission to the King Shcs trailer. Do you know who this is? No the kids with hum and playing on the truck behind them were so cute whe said. That is BJ Baldwin LMAO Maybe that is why he was ind of staring at you walking by she said. Yah I did not even see it was him! He runs Kings and may have come with me or sent a message. Lucky Brett was there and I thanked him to a big smile. Then he introduced me to the King of King sHOCKS AND FORMERLY kUSTER SHOCKS I WAS TOLD BY kREG (Spelled right?) owner of Donahoe Racing I bought my killer 4" lift fromand went to my HS and had Autoshop with Mr Nolan who busted me and my friend Todd for a couple beeers and made us see him after school to wARN us of big trouble! Good advice and thanks to hi, he sent us away and said your beer is in the fridge he had against the back wall. God bless him he was a Great teacher! He even remembered me and asked my cousin Adam about me years later. DAMM good times (D.A.M.M. the name of the punk band I was in in HS. I was the singer and lead guitar for. Me and Pat the drummer started and named it D.A.M.M. Drunks Against Madd Mothers . Back in the late 80's a good name for our Punk Rock band that played Keg Parties! Scott and Jason and Greg Rmembers. /
![[UNCUT] The Loyal Pin ปิ่นภักดิ์ EP.4 (2/4)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/MN-p1DHjPtI/mqdefault.jpg)
That guy is is in damn good shape! Never gave up and paddled through the whole gigantic set! Made every duck dive through that massive white water. RESPECT!
Its not that crazy, its just surfing shape. When you are inside like that you'd be surprised how long you can paddle for - adrenaline helps plenty. I got caught inside at impossibles @ indo this year and it wasn't fun. But you just keep paddling.
Yeah although as soon as the adrenaline wears off your exhausted.
Alright big time... We've all been to Bali chill out
+Tim Blizzard caught inside at a left reef break with a channel?
+ostraspt Of course you can get caught inside somewhere with a channel, teahupoo, pipeline, etc. Rogue sets and waves happen all the time. Look up "caught inside mentawaii"
very experienced and strong surfer, he handled the situation like a fucking pro.
Major props to this dude. Those waves are much bigger from his POV too
Makes it to the lineup, and sits for 30 minutes catching his breath.
Fact
You'd be surprised how fast you recover once you're out the back. 5 minutes TOPS
Lol that's how we do it bra
Thats what I do when its 5ft
@@jamescapel6492 Same lol
dude can duck dive like a pro (solid commentary too)
Perfect example of how to stay calm and use your experience 👍🏼
Wow amazing duckdiving I couldn't handle that.
Once he'd committed there's no backing out, can't just call time-out if you don't like the way it's going. Epic paddle out, that is an arm\shoulder killer.
Nice subtle Point Break reference haha
LOL. Nice point Break Braw!
@@just_j9264 No way Bells is bigger than Waimea Bra, it will be next year...
“The X-Presidents are Surfers”
"Charlie don't surf!". Oh sorry, wrong movie.
Looking out the window - that's a paddlin'. Staring at my sandles - that's a paddlin. Going out during a huge set - you better believe that's a paddlin'!
Great Quote
Marvellous
Did anybody noticed the current taking him to the lineup- he knew what he was doing- still had to take a few on his head -
The current didnt take him to the line up. His arms did!! He would have been in the rocks
Exactly bro, he was no kook...
I love how the camera guy starts off completely doubtful and constantly gets proven wrong with every single duckdive until he has to respect it lmao
He's really good at duck diving, never lost his board , made it through every Wave
Who is this legend?
Him and the other 15 guys in the line up?.....
That was me.. it was hard but I caught a few waves so it paid off
@@gday3715 surrrewe
Gnarly man. This was actually motivational lol I'll probably remember this the next time I'm paddling out on a big day. Maybe it's not impossible! Just duckdive efficiently and keep on paddling
I would say it's not the paddle so much as the duck-diving and positioning that impresses me. That was a 2:30 paddle. We could all sprint paddle for 2:30. Heck, I'd be grateful for that in big waves. I've had 30 minute paddle outs many a time. On a short board against 12' - 16' waves with no rips. You just settle in and keep going. But that duck-diving was PRO. And the lines he took. My hat off to him.
I could sprint paddle for ten minutes back in the day. Stay in the surf for six hours. I went out last week and after 3 minutes through constant white water sets I was in rough shape. Don't know how long it took to get out but seemed like forever, couldn't have been more than 6 minutes. Sat outside for fifteen minutes before even thinking of paddling for a wave.
Getting old blows.
I would have said f it I'm turning around on the third one.
haha its rocks all behind bro.. there's only a small passage. doing that is suicide
@@kateyshearer5886 so how would you get out then?
@@Sam-81810 Presumably further down the point? No chance from where he got in though.
I would've said that on the beach
That's the point.. you can't.. hahah
I did this sort of thing when I was younger and it always was so much fun. The vibrancy, the taste of seaweed and salt. The frizzle and popping of the eggbeat. It was joyous! Ducking under waves before break no problem. If in the splatter, let your body go limp. Wait, and wait briefly after surfacing to not inhale foam. Inhaling foam is like swallowing 6 egg yokes at once.
.....and furthermore...In larger waves...and i mean huge.......curling into a ball is much safer as letting the body be limp leaves arms and legs exposed to violent forces.......allowing injury to occur easily.
I think the memory of it is better than reality lol got smashed today in big sets and it was fairly miserable
Good duck diver. Couldn't have picked a worse time though lol
Sometimes you need to hit the set to get the gap in between to get out
This guy will be nicely warmed up lol
This guy is my idol. My thriving force. My everything.
man that 3rd and 4th wave, handled like a champion
Exhausted from just watching 😅 He did a great job not losing ground on the duck dives then working his way over to the outgoing rip
just watching this gave me anxiety
I got so tired went to fridge to drink a gallon of BBAC shake !!..and he was still padding when I got back..!!!
Superman duckdive. Repeat 10 times... whew! Nice breda, nice
my worst nightmare, what a champ he powered through that
Great duck diving techniques shown here.
Respect
Legend has it he was waiting on the rocks for hours just to paddle into that set...
you used the wrong meme format bud.
I'm still catching my breath just watching
I have been caught like this before and it totally and completely sucks. I would have spent the next 30 minutes sitting outside resting my rubber arms😂😂
Happens in NZ in the winter alot
troy davey - it was very poor timing & if it’s that consistent why not move further down the point & paddle out?
Because the sweep is a pain. I paddled from palm beach in an attempt to get out at Burleigh... one wave to get through i abandoned board and dove, board in two parts. Paddled the arse end in and a clubbie gave me the rest of it. Gutted.
Wow, I struggle when it's just a 3ft day lol
Same 😂
when mother nature has a good laugh at your expense! what a beast though duckdiving hero.
id have been totalled by the first one huge set brutal stuff
The worst is when you start getting close to the line up, and then you see everyone start paddling like crazy away from you meaning theres a huge clean up set coming in haha
in a parallel universe I'm just getting sanded down on the rocks after not making the first duck dive
"He who jests at scars never felt a wound" Shakey-spear
duck diving like a submarine and popping out...STUD
got caught at Lennox in 98 like that, you just can't give up
Legend. Reminds me of the 2020 big day. Only a few paddled out. But all the bragging was done by guys who got dropped out by skis.
This made my arms tired just watching
Epic beat down.
Never leave your board, brings you to the surface.
Best thing about surfing is I don't have to do it.
The perseverance and strength, amazing! She kicks ass.
+Greg Ungar It was obviously a guy
Relative of the great Stue Ungar?
Unnatural place? No. Very natural place, just aggressive!
That was Pete. He is a carpenter. Lives near Kailua. Born again guy. Survived cancer.
Kudos! That dude paddled our there like a champ!
Just a local working his cardio
Thanks for watching the vid guys. This spot is awesome but I'll delete comments that name names.. It gets crowded enough these days.
mate am I correct in assuming that this places name 3rd letter is T.and if so ,have you ever seen the the wave that breaks 3 or 4 hundred metres to the right,saw it in 91 but too nervous to surf,me lived in Indo for 5 years and other surfing joints,but me never seen a better wave., the 3rd letter to this break is maybe P, is I correct or stoned
Yeah you're in the right spot. I've paddled out where you are talking about and had some screamers come through, pretty rare. it does break pretty much on the rocks though and seen a few bloodied heads.
will you at least name the country where this wave is located.
Been there before i think :)
This guy deserves any wave he wants. Obviously a secret spot. Good thing you didn't name it.
Yeah, I woulda turned back after the 3rd wave, damn he's in good shape.
This video has more views than some professional surf videos with a whole production team.
Know the feeling desperate, out of breath and running out of energy for your next duck dive
Just one word.... Brutal
MoFo sure can duck dive!!!
This is the reason I joined The waterpolo team and the swim team in high school! To get in really good padding shape. I played 8 seasons and it helped tremendously when I began to surf bigger waves.
you were laughing at him, but he gave you a lesson
I used to dive off the rocks on big days and you learnt to pick your sets.
We have all been that guy
I've been there before... Tough one to deal with... Wears you out for sure...
DAM 29seconds in right on the head THIS GUY IS DETERMINED and very fit to boot haha
Happened to me just this at whykeykey! So gnar bro! Vid dude not naming spots is legend!
Got to train for it by going out everyday no matter the conditions.
Don't laugh rescue him!
True Grit. People have no idea how hard this is. Waves half this size will pound even the best.
Normal day at Ocean Beach San Francisco
I know that spot, actually my recollection is that it could be me. A lot of sand moved off the reef from previous winter making the left beach break absolutely hollow for spring and summer. The main reefbreak does what you see here in those conditions. West Coast rocks, just gotta make it to the lineup! Hope I haven't disrespected the spot, just felt reconnected after while out of the water. Nice video and great narration IMHO, thanks again for posting this.
Really? What’s the name of the spot then? Your comment is 2 years old, this - original - vid was published before 2013. Just curious what spot it is. Lemme know if you don’t know, I’ll help you out, because I have surfed there many many many times and your name rings no bell
@@rossrcfallacaro3422 damnn gotta call him out like that lmfao. you either remember it was you or it wasnt you bro, probably the worst timed paddle out of ur life
@@rossrcfallacaro3422 is this deadmans?
dude deserves a Bells! no pun intended! Ledge
What a fantastic video!!! Did you guys know this guy? I Loooove him/ her!!! 💖🏄
The person did message me years ago after seeing the vid. Yeah it was a tiring paddle but they got some good ones after all!
That guy must be a pro duck diver dude and endurance ...I tell ya..goddamm!! ..man...!
I need to hire that dude as my personal fitness trainer!
Dude actually made it 🤙🏼🤙🏼
Those waves looked incredible.
That guy has a damn good duck dive
Anyone else feel that nasal flush and taste the saltwater?
Par for the course. Advanced surfing 101. You come to play gotta pay with a few duck dives. No big deal.
For a start it's not massive. Looks like he paddled out from bells without watching the set coming from out off Southside then tried to cut across to winki without paddling far enough out and around. Held onto board so he wouldn't end up on winki button. In experience poor decisions. Lucky the other guys didn't have to fish him out. Probably should have never been out in that swell.
We’ve all been there before 🌊🏄 🤙
The Flea that could......
Handled like a boss!
Fuck I got sore arms watching this!!!
That was like watching an antelope get separated from the pack
thats some pumping nz
do u reckon it is NZ?
Shoulders like boulders
IMHO, the riptide created by the set pulled the surfer sideways at the end, saving him from the rocks....
My arms are sore watching this
Don't worry guys , that's uncle David he does that all the time😂
insane duck dive
I don't think the cameraman has any arms left...
this is my worst nightmare
reminds me of being swept from a Bells paddle out to a Winkipop Button and then a bit further. Why would you not mention the break? ...No secrets these days
Been there
Can remember getting wise and calling it a day
gotta admit the conditions look firing tho
GOTTA LOVE this guy!~!!!
And they call him The Wild Thing!
Great commitment but had no options behind him well done ..
Good effort mate
My ptsd got triggered
I bet he took a few nuggets out there once he got his breath back.
maybe he was aiming for a fast 10 minute workout
Well done indeed, a solid effort there. I was never a good surfer when I was younger but i had a strong duck dive and was ok at paddling - that guy blows me out the water
I was the opposite, had major dramas till learnt to dck dive properly. Much easier then. Cheers
Times like that were among the epic edge.
Nice I have not had A LOT OF BIG DAYS at T%odos but when booted from my parents house from my Mom finding a nice girl in my bed one morning I met the night before at a concert at an outside ampletheater the night before. That and having to ask her her name when she asked who it was did it. My Dad just shruged his shoulders with a grin downstairs. The begining of summer between JR and Senior year of High School. I loaded my board some dive gear (not much) and drove south to an abandon house at the near edge of a small cliff overlooking a nice right point break into a cove wirh lobster. Reminds me of the Green Day Song Paradise. It was back then and kind of still is . K38 and a 1/2 I guess. Good times with cheap great food and beer and the best atequila I know of. A block wall and steel gate to lock my first 4x4 in and a big fire pit. Lots of off roading in Baja .! . It worked but(not like the FullBronco I call a luxury Prerunner I have built now but it looked tuff. now I have morewheel travel in my suspention than a Raptor and a internal balanced full rolller 408 DONE RIGHT by Greg G down in Santee . A lot of work making it Commiefornia legal Heis (the last Master Ford builder I have read in reviews. Nice! King Shocks II found out I bough be built from Brett King. Yes looking at the pics my girl took at the Mint 400 Contingency a couple years ago just after it I see a close picture of BJ Baldwin! I asked when did you take this? She said When you were on your mission to the King Shcs trailer. Do you know who this is? No the kids with hum and playing on the truck behind them were so cute whe said. That is BJ Baldwin LMAO Maybe that is why he was ind of staring at you walking by she said. Yah I did not even see it was him! He runs Kings and may have come with me or sent a message. Lucky Brett was there and I thanked him to a big smile. Then he introduced me to the King of King sHOCKS AND FORMERLY kUSTER SHOCKS I WAS TOLD BY kREG (Spelled right?) owner of Donahoe Racing I bought my killer 4" lift fromand went to my HS and had Autoshop with Mr Nolan who busted me and my friend Todd for a couple beeers and made us see him after school to wARN us of big trouble! Good advice and thanks to hi, he sent us away and said your beer is in the fridge he had against the back wall. God bless him he was a Great teacher! He even remembered me and asked my cousin Adam about me years later. DAMM good times (D.A.M.M. the name of the punk band I was in in HS. I was the singer and lead guitar for. Me and Pat the drummer started and named it D.A.M.M. Drunks Against Madd Mothers . Back in the late 80's a good name for our Punk Rock band that played Keg Parties! Scott and Jason and Greg Rmembers.
/