The pivot around and take the wave to your back with your board tilted 45 up is also a good way to hold your position in medium size white water. With practice you can do It very quickly.
Two things... 1 When you turtle, the closer you hold the board to the nose, the less leverage the wave will have to rip it out of you grasp. 2 You should never ditch your board. The leash is there as a backup in case you ACCIDENTLY lose control of your board. It's not there so you can bail and endanger everyone behind you. You could seriously injure or even kill someone by just letting the wave take your board. If you are about to get hit by a big wall of white water and turtling is not going to work, you can hop off, point the board to shore, hold the leash where it meets the board, go under and bend your arm so it absorbs the pull when the wave hits. It's not painless, but it's still safer as the board will not fly around as much and will also have a faster recovery
I do that sometimes but the pressure is too much for my shoulder. It would be nice if they built a leash where you could use both hands to hold the end of the leash. Maybe extend the area at the end of the leash with 8 more inches.
A lot of comments here saying never let go of your board. It certainly should not be the defacto response, but sometime it is the only option. As someone who surfs longboards and mid lengths, my piece of advice to shortboarders is if there is a longboarder in the water and s/he is actively trying to paddle away from you when a closeout monster set is coming - don't paddle after them. If you don't surf longboards in big surf, you don't appreciate what the longboarder is trying to do.
It's one thing to come here and not see the basic method of presenting the longboard rail-first when duck diving and pushing through, but to have option 3 being to ditch the board, and to have you kooks making out like it's other people's fault for being behind you as you BOTH try and paddle out of the impact zone, as though the other person is stupidly trying to follow you. Hey, all kooks in our own way, depending on the day you or me... killed by a head injury
i agree, if someone is behind you, and your on a long board, you just have to eat the wave. If there's no one around, there's no harm in it. Just like anything, situational awareness is key. @@davecasey8087
I'd actually always try to hold on to my board... Some guy told me to not go out if I can't hold on to my board when I started surfing. Still my #1 rule
If a wave is breaking right on you, you can start the roll late, and turtle roll only "half way" so that one rail is facing skyward right when the lip hits, providing a narrower board target. But you keep rolling right at impact, which helps protect you. It's a very refined move, but it has its place in certain conditions and situations.
Never ditch your board like they tell you to do in the dive under. If anyone is near you they are going to eat your longboard. Dive under but hold on to the nose, bring it under water with you and kick your ass off. Never ditch your board. Use the first two only.
these surf tutorial sights cause the most problems in the line ups, almost as much as surf schools that just shove their so called students into waves.
The part about pulling the nose under with you is gold. Novices don't realize that you can control the entire board, just by getting the nose into the water- the shape of the board will take care of the rest. I was taught to NEVER ditch- if you can't go over, you turn turtle, grab the rails, and yank the nose into the wave; like you said, kicking your ass off, underwater.
Excellent advice! Timing the sets really helped me. I also like going halfway out and waiting for cleaner water. It's much easier to wait than to struggle through waves. Ditching your board is the worst option. When you ditch your board, the leash will stretch as it pulls on your leg. The board might come back to you quickly, so make sure you cover your head. It might also hit someone, so be especially careful. Have fun!
I’ve found that when I’m long boarding when a bigger wave is coming putting your weight on the back will obviously make the wave go under u. And if it’s bigger it’ll throw your board up and or make u roll backwards. Which obviously for bigger waves turtle roll tends to be the best option. But I’ve found that actually moving forward pushing your nose doing will make you and your board just go straight through the wave
Great Video! Beginners should know that its not good to hold the board between themself and a breaking wave while walking out. Longboards offer so much volume the wave just takes you with the board flying back to the beach. I met a person taking bad knee problems from a accident like that.
There is a fourth. Dive technique but hug the nose of the board with your strong arm and dive under with the board. Both you and the board belly down, nose and head towards the wave. Works well especially if you can touch bottom with your feet to push through the wave.
If you are punching through the wave on your stomach, it really helps to sort of caterpillar your whole body off the board so that more of the water passes through. If you're going to turn turtle, it helps to have a little wax on the rails near the nose to improve your grip. A few other techniques: You can actually duck dive a lot of longboards just before the wave breaks by knifing through at a 45 degree angle. And rather than ditch your board, point the nose toward shore and grab the leash near the plug (or if you have enough time, flip the board over so the water passes over the convex bottom, but watch the fin...). If you're facing moderate-size whitewater, rather than ditch, get off the board, reach across the nose and cradle the board under your arm as you sink the nose. This works in more waves than you might think, but hang on tight to the opposite rail. Another clever move is to sit on the board, sink the tail so the nose sticks up. Swing the board around as the wave breaks so you sort of slice through the face. Saves a lot of energy. Finally, and this is a really old school technique (pre leash): If you're faced with a wall of whitewater, paddle like hell toward it, jump up on your board and kick it over the whitewater as you jump straight down. If you do it right, the board will clear the whitewater and you can swim to it after you surface...but obvs don't do this with a lot of people around, or in an onshore wind, as much can go wrong...last point: if you really, really have to ditch in the face of a breaking wave, make sure the board isn't perpendicular bc the lip can guillotine it...
Great video tutorial. The camera work and instructions are gerally really effective. My only criticism is the bit about throwing the board away and relying on legrope. Looks ok at this break with no one around but when its a surfschool and they are close together...carnage. Thanks
That was a great video. Best is good timing. I always ditch my board but get a massive tug on my ankle, now injured, from the leash. Holding onto the leash strap really helps prevent that. I wish we could develop a better method.
For the dive under he should definitely be grabbing the leash tie, keeps everyone safer as the board stays closer to him, plus its a lot easier and quicker to get back on the board if there are more waves in the set. Last thing you want on a wave is some kook bailing his board because he saw it in a youtube video, and if they break their leash in doing so suddenly it's up to us or lifeguards to help them out.
Wish more people saw this, nothing scarier than a rogue surf board flying at you. Using the Surfers ski lift (the rip at the edge of the break) is my go to, witg caution obviously, it means you have to negotiate currents and often rocks
Your dive under technique can be made better by holding on to the part of the leash closest to where you loop it to the board (with the Velcro). It’ll reduce how much the board drags you with the wave, not be so dangerous to others and increase the lifespan of your leash. As somebody already said, this is a last resort, you should try and surf intelligently using rips
if you have a lose grip, it happens very easily or if you arent paying attention, the leash can pinch your fingers. i try to pull the back of the board underwater with me, but still be mindful of the leash being yanked out (and it does hurt) @@Dobertathon
Another technique I use. Accelerate hard towards breaking wave tuck head bring arms up the rail close to nose. Thrusting through immediately drop arms and paddle hard against flow. Kind of a modified duck dive.
My tech that’s never failed me on any wave or board to date: hold board flat on water. Reach across and grab a rail. Keep it flat, and dive through the wave while holding the board. Has literally never failed. Just have to have moderate arm/shoulder strength and a very easy technique.
Yes. surprised this wasn't mentioned. It's also a great way to save energy when you're paddling out and can still touch the bottom. I probably use this technique most of all. Just don't get in the way of a lip or it will rip your arm out of your socket...
I do it like this: hop of the board to the left, at the nose reach over with your arm and grab the opposite rail very firm (!!! I actually put some wax there so it is not slippery). Then dive under and push the nose of the board with you under water. The board will now pull hard and you have to grab it firm. Not very elegant, but I get surprisingly big waves with this techniques. Since it sometimes slip, only use this if no one is behind you.
I found pushing through the edge of a vertical wall very soon to break, needs anticipation of the slap in your face by the lip that will next lift your body away from the board. So I try to grab the rails firmly and raise into a plank position until the lip is past my feet, to avoid being floated/pushed back towards the tail then wasting time and energy to seek again the correct paddling position.
The answer is to ride a board that is appropriate for the conditions or ride where the conditions are appropriate for your board. Trying to muscle a 10’ longboard through hard breaking big waves is very difficult no matter what technique you use. A board that you can simply push down nose first and smoothly dive under a wave like that is the correct selection.
Read the beach and where it is best to paddle out, look for a spot that isnt breaking hard. Walk out as far as you can to conserve energy. Time a lull in the waves and Paddle hard. If you must in big whitewater, bail. Most waves can be paddled over/through but whitewater is what is going to blow you backwards. Better then bailing is flipping board over , holding onto rail saver part of leash and pulling tail down under water with you , arms extended to avoid contact with board to face. It works, ive only hurt my hand once in many years doing this, its better then bailing. But if its monstrously big out, forget it. In that case, always check your leash before paddling out to ensure it wont break in big surf. Check its connection to the leash plug and make sure the rail saver is indeed on the rail and not the string ( the string on the rail will rip through your board ) only use quality leashes rated for the size of surf your going out in , your life depends on it. Replace your leash at least every 2 years or when it is out of warranty or shows wear. Rinse it with fresh water after use to ensure its intgrity. Then you can feel confident bailing if you must, just dont make a habbit out of it, its dangerous to other surfers and your leash very well could snap and strand you in deadly surf.
Instead of ditching the board when approaching a large broken wave, I like to roll the board over and hold like hell onto the nose. The wave seems to push me down and roll over faster. And since I'm holding onto the board I can get back on and paddle that much faster.
If the waves are big (triple overhead is the limit) these techniques that I will discuss, will work. 1st, when doing a turtle, in large waves, move your hand placement as close to the nose, bout a foot away. When turning the board to turtle, you must simultaneously (while under water) pull your arms, with board in hand, straight above your head. So image, your body under is straight up&down, at a 90 degree (or slightly past) to one’s board. Reason being, you want the energy of the wave’s impact to pass through your body and not fight that wave energy with your muscles. Your body will be like a bouncing like buoy, on impact, as the wave crashes. This 2nd technique, is advanced. Ditch your board and face push your board, so it’s pointing towards the shore, sound so advanced right? Hold on, I’m not done. 1st thing one needs to do, it’s imperative in order for the technique to work. Before you even paddle out and you’re on the beach. Your leash has to be placed on your back foot, along the outside of the ankle bone, where it sticks out, this is key. This next part is tricky but, fun too. Now, let’s get back to when you pushed your board to shore. When the wave hit you and you’re being dragged under water. One needs to feel the leash pull and try to wrap the leash around the under part of foot where the arch is. Now, you need to push your legs wide apart and swing your front foot on to the leash. If you pull this maneuver off correctly, one is surfing a tightrope leash, underwater, and while being pulled by the wave. It’s a crazy feeling but so exhilarating at the same time. This is something can just do when you fall off your board. I would do this so often that it became part of my repertoire. I would literally do this, if possible, every 3rd-ish time I was in the drink. Last of option , one can always ditch their board and take off your leash. If doing that scares you in the least, you have no business being out in the water in the 1st place.
I was immediate impressed by the video until I saw the 3rd technique. The first 2 techniques are excellent. But the 3rd should absolutely be ignored. Your board is an immediate danger to other people in the water. NEVER intentionally ditch your board. There is a modification to the 3rd technique that is highly successful though. When you slip off the board, grab the opposite rail of the board up near the nose and bring the board firmly into your armpit. Then foot first dive down under the wave. Another technique not considered in the video is turning your back to the breaking wave, sitting or putting your weight back to the tail of the board. The wave passes by you with little push back.
You also can do a modified duck dive by grabbing the nose of your longboard tucked under your arm diving down feet up in the air right before the wave breaks, basically the tail of your board will be sticking straight up and will cut through the wave like a knife.
Thanks for the great video! Question on the turtle roll: during a recent surf lesson the instructor specifically mentioned to keep your head touching the board under water, so that if the board is pushed down by the force of water it doesn’t smash into your face. In the video you mention to keep distance between self and the board. What are your thoughts on this? Thanks!
I longboard and turtle a lot but I don’t usually have my head touching the board. Most often I keep distance exactly like they show in the video. Maybe try both techniques in small waves and see which works best with you
Another option is having one arm bent with your elbow against the board to prevent the board contacting your face. Then the water can still push board and user deeper with no risk a hard impact.
Hey Jeremy. We teach the turtle roll technique with an emphasise that once underwater, you should: 1. Leave some space between your body and the board 2. Ensure the nose is sunk in the water 3. Your arms should have a slight bend in them 4. Your head should NOT be close to the board 5. And your board should be sealed to the water Having a slight bend in the arms and space from the board when going under the wave will give you more control of the board. It also ensures you don't actually have contact with your head to the board, which could result in an injury. Hope this helps!
If duck diving is not available to you then the turtle roll is the next most preferable method. 6-8ft waves however are very big and powerful. There may be times when the wave is simply too strong for you to complete this technique. The dive under last resort can also be an option too if need be.
I've never actually done a turtle roll longboards are too big for me to control and shortboards don't really need it, you can just pierce through yeah and as mentioned in this video, it's actually kind of hard, I should work on it
Great video. Funny thinking this guy had to re create every mistake possible. All while he’s missing some good waves. That didn’t go un noticed my friend.
If you're thinking of ditching your board the first thing you do is look behind. If someone's there you just have to tough it out and try to keep your board. Throwing it away in someone's face is a no-go. That being said, don't paddle out just behind another longboard!
Your "dive under technique" is recognised by most surfers as a last resort and an absolute must is to check that there is no one behind you that might get hit by your board. If there is you must not throw your board away. Yes it's tough, that's why it is a last resort. Failing to mention this is irresponsible.
@@Explogene thanks we were just about to write the same, but maybe it was not clear enough. We will make sure to make it as clear as possible next time!
I also feel like it should have been much clearer and probably come both before AND after explaining the “technique”. This should be considered an absolute last resort. I literally got a friend in the hospital at the moment because of some $#@ longboarder doing this without even looking while they were both paddling back out. He might not walk again. The issue with this tutorial is that you frame it as “a technique”. It’s not. It’s a last resort that should never happen, especially on a longboard.
Ive always called that "Bailing the board". It's sort of admitting defeat. I surf some crowded breaks and try very to keep control or at least contact with my board. Shits gonna happen. But paddling out and being in control (and safe) are more important than riding waves imo.
I tried turtle roll but my body keeps floating up causing only small spaces left between me and my board, sometimes my body will even push the board out of the water. I tried to sink but I can’t, anyway to fix that??
Hey there. Ensure the nose of your surfboard is sunk and sealed to the water when completing your turtle roll. It can also help to paddle at the wave with speed and power before flipping your board. Make sure you have a slight bend in the arms once flipped, and a strong hold on the rails of your board. This should help you to gain more control of your board underwater. If these steps are followed correctly, it should help with your problem. We hope this helps!
Bend your elbows 90 degrees, then focus on keeping your entire forearms touching the board, up to the elbows. This will cause your body to stay vertical underwater rather than floating horizontally. Dunno why but it always works. Been doing it for years.
I think you might be rolling too far in advance. You want to time the roll to be just before the whitewater washes over you. You definitely need some momentum, too. And, possibly, your body is too horizontal. I try to let my legs sink down at least 45 degrees.
Make sure you are using a really strong leg rope, ditch the board throw it behind you towards the beach and dive under the waves and drag the sucker. Lol its amazing when you pop up behind a breaker and you can see your 9'6" mal fluttering around on the inshore side of the breaker about 5 times further away than you ever imagined your leg rope could stretch 🤣
if you're a grommet sit on the beach and watch experienced surfers.. don't be afraid to ask them...if you are genuine one will take you under their wing and even introduce you to the locals who will teach you respect in the lineup and most likely let you have one on your own all the while laughing because they will remember when they were at your level..
Since I still find it pretty hard to catch a wave, I figure I turn around and pretend to paddle to catch it. The wave will just leave me in place, so I can turn around and continue paddling out 😅😅😅
Don't be an idiot - don't let go of your board - if you're tempted to do the "dive under" technique (DON'T DO IT) - check out Wingnut's technique where he grabs the opposite rail and buries the nose of his board in the water before he gets pummeled - fewer opportunities to HARM SURROUNDING SURFERS. I'm sensitive to this as I have new stitches on my forehead b/c some idiot let go of their board in the surf - DON'T BE AN IDIOT!
I dove under a wave like a b life guard/with my 9.2 behind. An old guy/like me? GAVE ME A VERBAL ABOUT IT. That was it. I just went in and watched with my wife. Guess that was the last time i tried my Hobbie.
this is a terrible video. first- do not let go of your board. second- do not let go of your board. third- see points one and two. fourth- if you can't figure out how to get out in such small waves you should try a different sport. in any real line up you will be sent home for this kind of foolishness. a useful video would show how to properly get a longboard out in large surf as opposed to promoting dangerous behavior in tiny surf.
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Also, wait for a lull in the sets before paddling out. Every surfer should do this regardless of board type. Save your energy for the waves
The pivot around and take the wave to your back with your board tilted 45 up is also a good way to hold your position in medium size white water. With practice you can do It very quickly.
Two things... 1 When you turtle, the closer you hold the board to the nose, the less leverage the wave will have to rip it out of you grasp. 2 You should never ditch your board. The leash is there as a backup in case you ACCIDENTLY lose control of your board. It's not there so you can bail and endanger everyone behind you. You could seriously injure or even kill someone by just letting the wave take your board. If you are about to get hit by a big wall of white water and turtling is not going to work, you can hop off, point the board to shore, hold the leash where it meets the board, go under and bend your arm so it absorbs the pull when the wave hits. It's not painless, but it's still safer as the board will not fly around as much and will also have a faster recovery
I do that sometimes but the pressure is too much for my shoulder. It would be nice if they built a leash where you could use both hands to hold the end of the leash. Maybe extend the area at the end of the leash with 8 more inches.
Just look behind you and make sure there’s no one there.
Probably not the best idea to have your hands caught between the leash and board.
@@ULiel101 Yeah, I shredded the skin off one of my fingers by holding onto the base of the leash in a big wave.
@@ULiel101 I heard about a guy that got open fracture of finger by holding the leash nearby the surf.
A lot of comments here saying never let go of your board. It certainly should not be the defacto response, but sometime it is the only option. As someone who surfs longboards and mid lengths, my piece of advice to shortboarders is if there is a longboarder in the water and s/he is actively trying to paddle away from you when a closeout monster set is coming - don't paddle after them. If you don't surf longboards in big surf, you don't appreciate what the longboarder is trying to do.
It's one thing to come here and not see the basic method of presenting the longboard rail-first when duck diving and pushing through, but to have option 3 being to ditch the board, and to have you kooks making out like it's other people's fault for being behind you as you BOTH try and paddle out of the impact zone, as though the other person is stupidly trying to follow you. Hey, all kooks in our own way, depending on the day you or me... killed by a head injury
i agree, if someone is behind you, and your on a long board, you just have to eat the wave. If there's no one around, there's no harm in it. Just like anything, situational awareness is key.
@@davecasey8087
I'd actually always try to hold on to my board... Some guy told me to not go out if I can't hold on to my board when I started surfing. Still my #1 rule
I stopped doing this when my leash snapped.
+1000
Yep you don't want the leash breaking and leaving you stranded in a set. Happened to me today 😅
@@Nebulation
🤔
@@TheLukobahahahahah same to me two days ago, that’s terrible
If a wave is breaking right on you, you can start the roll late, and turtle roll only "half way" so that one rail is facing skyward right when the lip hits, providing a narrower board target. But you keep rolling right at impact, which helps protect you. It's a very refined move, but it has its place in certain conditions and situations.
🙏🏽😍
Wow! You Slicing the impact zone! Epic! Tell me more secrets
Never ditch your board like they tell you to do in the dive under. If anyone is near you they are going to eat your longboard. Dive under but hold on to the nose, bring it under water with you and kick your ass off. Never ditch your board. Use the first two only.
The number of kooks that injure other people by ditching their board is ridiculous.
these surf tutorial sights cause the most problems in the line ups, almost as much as surf schools that just shove their so called students into waves.
The part about pulling the nose under with you is gold.
Novices don't realize that you can control the entire board, just by getting the nose into the water- the shape of the board will take care of the rest.
I was taught to NEVER ditch- if you can't go over, you turn turtle, grab the rails, and yank the nose into the wave; like you said, kicking your ass off, underwater.
I try not to ditch my board as much as possible i do have a catch surf short board so at least not as bad as an epoxy.
Excellent advice! Timing the sets really helped me. I also like going halfway out and waiting for cleaner water. It's much easier to wait than to struggle through waves.
Ditching your board is the worst option. When you ditch your board, the leash will stretch as it pulls on your leg. The board might come back to you quickly, so make sure you cover your head. It might also hit someone, so be especially careful. Have fun!
I’ve found that when I’m long boarding when a bigger wave is coming putting your weight on the back will obviously make the wave go under u. And if it’s bigger it’ll throw your board up and or make u roll backwards. Which obviously for bigger waves turtle roll tends to be the best option. But I’ve found that actually moving forward pushing your nose doing will make you and your board just go straight through the wave
Great tutorial - so clear and detailed with great underwater images. Thank you!
Great Video!
Beginners should know that its not good to hold the board between themself and a breaking wave while walking out. Longboards offer so much volume the wave just takes you with the board flying back to the beach. I met a person taking bad knee problems from a accident like that.
yeah i got a rib injury that way
So what should I do? What is the alternative?
Hold the board such that you are between the wave and the board (so that the board is slightly behind you when walking out)
Playgounds at Nusa Lembongan...best beginner wave and also barreling on big days.
There is a fourth. Dive technique but hug the nose of the board with your strong arm and dive under with the board. Both you and the board belly down, nose and head towards the wave. Works well especially if you can touch bottom with your feet to push through the wave.
If you are punching through the wave on your stomach, it really helps to sort of caterpillar your whole body off the board so that more of the water passes through. If you're going to turn turtle, it helps to have a little wax on the rails near the nose to improve your grip.
A few other techniques: You can actually duck dive a lot of longboards just before the wave breaks by knifing through at a 45 degree angle. And rather than ditch your board, point the nose toward shore and grab the leash near the plug (or if you have enough time, flip the board over so the water passes over the convex bottom, but watch the fin...). If you're facing moderate-size whitewater, rather than ditch, get off the board, reach across the nose and cradle the board under your arm as you sink the nose. This works in more waves than you might think, but hang on tight to the opposite rail. Another clever move is to sit on the board, sink the tail so the nose sticks up. Swing the board around as the wave breaks so you sort of slice through the face. Saves a lot of energy.
Finally, and this is a really old school technique (pre leash): If you're faced with a wall of whitewater, paddle like hell toward it, jump up on your board and kick it over the whitewater as you jump straight down. If you do it right, the board will clear the whitewater and you can swim to it after you surface...but obvs don't do this with a lot of people around, or in an onshore wind, as much can go wrong...last point: if you really, really have to ditch in the face of a breaking wave, make sure the board isn't perpendicular bc the lip can guillotine it...
Thank you 🙏🏼🙏🏼
This video is wonderfully done. Very thorough for a total novice like me.
Thanks 🙏🏼
Great video tutorial. The camera work and instructions are gerally really effective. My only criticism is the bit about throwing the board away and relying on legrope. Looks ok at this break with no one around but when its a surfschool and they are close together...carnage. Thanks
That was a great video. Best is good timing. I always ditch my board but get a massive tug on my ankle, now injured, from the leash. Holding onto the leash strap really helps prevent that. I wish we could develop a better method.
For the dive under he should definitely be grabbing the leash tie, keeps everyone safer as the board stays closer to him, plus its a lot easier and quicker to get back on the board if there are more waves in the set. Last thing you want on a wave is some kook bailing his board because he saw it in a youtube video, and if they break their leash in doing so suddenly it's up to us or lifeguards to help them out.
thats great video! thanks a lot for its existence!) all surfing school have to show it to students!
Wish more people saw this, nothing scarier than a rogue surf board flying at you. Using the Surfers ski lift (the rip at the edge of the break) is my go to, witg caution obviously, it means you have to negotiate currents and often rocks
When you dive under you can easily grab your boards leash attachment whilst dipping under a wave (unless its huge), that keeps the board right by you
Your dive under technique can be made better by holding on to the part of the leash closest to where you loop it to the board (with the Velcro). It’ll reduce how much the board drags you with the wave, not be so dangerous to others and increase the lifespan of your leash. As somebody already said, this is a last resort, you should try and surf intelligently using rips
The white water rips the leash out of your hand, youch.
if you have a lose grip, it happens very easily or if you arent paying attention, the leash can pinch your fingers. i try to pull the back of the board underwater with me, but still be mindful of the leash being yanked out (and it does hurt)
@@Dobertathon
Another technique I use. Accelerate hard towards breaking wave tuck head bring arms up the rail close to nose. Thrusting through immediately drop arms and paddle hard against flow. Kind of a modified duck dive.
Thanks for sharing your tips Fred
Fantastic video, I saw one error I do during the turtle roll, can't wait to try now!!! Thanks guys!!!
I read a tip to put pressure on the top of your board during a turtle roll and that made so much sense.
Very high quality content. Thank you for this!
Good tips in here, some of which I got to learn the hard way. 😆
My tech that’s never failed me on any wave or board to date: hold board flat on water. Reach across and grab a rail. Keep it flat, and dive through the wave while holding the board. Has literally never failed. Just have to have moderate arm/shoulder strength and a very easy technique.
Yes. surprised this wasn't mentioned. It's also a great way to save energy when you're paddling out and can still touch the bottom. I probably use this technique most of all. Just don't get in the way of a lip or it will rip your arm out of your socket...
Could you describe that a little more? Are you staying on top of the board? And when what do you mean by reach across?
I do it like this: hop of the board to the left, at the nose reach over with your arm and grab the opposite rail very firm (!!! I actually put some wax there so it is not slippery). Then dive under and push the nose of the board with you under water. The board will now pull hard and you have to grab it firm. Not very elegant, but I get surprisingly big waves with this techniques. Since it sometimes slip, only use this if no one is behind you.
GREAT ADVICE I've punched through massive suluban with this technique.
Thanks! This will be needed when I go surfing with my nsp 7'2 as it has a lot of volume
Same with my 7’0” mal
I found pushing through the edge of a vertical wall very soon to break, needs anticipation of the slap in your face by the lip that will next lift your body away from the board. So I try to grab the rails firmly and raise into a plank position until the lip is past my feet, to avoid being floated/pushed back towards the tail then wasting time and energy to seek again the correct paddling position.
Nothing better for getting out back than getting that turtle roll down..)
The answer is to ride a board that is appropriate for the conditions or ride where the conditions are appropriate for your board. Trying to muscle a 10’ longboard through hard breaking big waves is very difficult no matter what technique you use. A board that you can simply push down nose first and smoothly dive under a wave like that is the correct selection.
watching this after getting absolutely worked yesterday lol
Read the beach and where it is best to paddle out, look for a spot that isnt breaking hard. Walk out as far as you can to conserve energy. Time a lull in the waves and Paddle hard. If you must in big whitewater, bail. Most waves can be paddled over/through but whitewater is what is going to blow you backwards. Better then bailing is flipping board over , holding onto rail saver part of leash and pulling tail down under water with you , arms extended to avoid contact with board to face. It works, ive only hurt my hand once in many years doing this, its better then bailing. But if its monstrously big out, forget it. In that case, always check your leash before paddling out to ensure it wont break in big surf. Check its connection to the leash plug and make sure the rail saver is indeed on the rail and not the string ( the string on the rail will rip through your board ) only use quality leashes rated for the size of surf your going out in , your life depends on it. Replace your leash at least every 2 years or when it is out of warranty or shows wear. Rinse it with fresh water after use to ensure its intgrity. Then you can feel confident bailing if you must, just dont make a habbit out of it, its dangerous to other surfers and your leash very well could snap and strand you in deadly surf.
Many more techniques out there. Never ditch your board.
Maaaaan those waves look fun!
same thoughts!
Instead of ditching the board when approaching a large broken wave, I like to roll the board over and hold like hell onto the nose. The wave seems to push me down and roll over faster. And since I'm holding onto the board I can get back on and paddle that much faster.
😂 hola desde Pavones golfito Costa Rica..
If the waves are big (triple overhead is the limit) these techniques that I will discuss, will work.
1st, when doing a turtle, in large waves, move your hand placement as close to the nose, bout a foot away. When turning the board to turtle, you must simultaneously (while under water) pull your arms, with board in hand, straight above your head. So image, your body under is straight up&down, at a 90 degree (or slightly past) to one’s board. Reason being, you want the energy of the wave’s impact to pass through your body and not fight that wave energy with your muscles. Your body will be like a bouncing like buoy, on impact, as the wave crashes. This 2nd technique, is advanced. Ditch your board and face push your board, so it’s pointing towards the shore, sound so advanced right? Hold on, I’m not done. 1st thing one needs to do, it’s imperative in order for the technique to work. Before you even paddle out and you’re on the beach. Your leash has to be placed on your back foot, along the outside of the ankle bone, where it sticks out, this is key. This next part is tricky but, fun too. Now, let’s get back to when you pushed your board to shore. When the wave hit you and you’re being dragged under water. One needs to feel the leash pull and try to wrap the leash around the under part of foot where the arch is. Now, you need to push your legs wide apart and swing your front foot on to the leash. If you pull this maneuver off correctly, one is surfing a tightrope leash, underwater, and while being pulled by the wave. It’s a crazy feeling but so exhilarating at the same time. This is something can just do when you fall off your board. I would do this so often that it became part of my repertoire. I would literally do this, if possible, every 3rd-ish time I was in the drink. Last of option , one can always ditch their board and take off your leash. If doing that scares you in the least, you have no business being out in the water in the 1st place.
I was immediate impressed by the video until I saw the 3rd technique. The first 2 techniques are excellent. But the 3rd should absolutely be ignored. Your board is an immediate danger to other people in the water. NEVER intentionally ditch your board. There is a modification to the 3rd technique that is highly successful though. When you slip off the board, grab the opposite rail of the board up near the nose and bring the board firmly into your armpit. Then foot first dive down under the wave. Another technique not considered in the video is turning your back to the breaking wave, sitting or putting your weight back to the tail of the board. The wave passes by you with little push back.
You also can do a modified duck dive by grabbing the nose of your longboard tucked under your arm diving down feet up in the air right before the wave breaks, basically the tail of your board will be sticking straight up and will cut through the wave like a knife.
Hey! Do you happen to have a video of somebody performing that technique? I'm very interested
@@clari1 just try in small waves to sink in the nose at an angle. Use your bodyweight too.
Thanks❤
Thanks for the great video! Question on the turtle roll: during a recent surf lesson the instructor specifically mentioned to keep your head touching the board under water, so that if the board is pushed down by the force of water it doesn’t smash into your face. In the video you mention to keep distance between self and the board. What are your thoughts on this? Thanks!
I longboard and turtle a lot but I don’t usually have my head touching the board. Most often I keep distance exactly like they show in the video. Maybe try both techniques in small waves and see which works best with you
@@mach5drms12 makes sense, will try as you suggest! Thanks
Another option is having one arm bent with your elbow against the board to prevent the board contacting your face. Then the water can still push board and user deeper with no risk a hard impact.
Hey Jeremy. We teach the turtle roll technique with an emphasise that once underwater, you should:
1. Leave some space between your body and the board
2. Ensure the nose is sunk in the water
3. Your arms should have a slight bend in them
4. Your head should NOT be close to the board
5. And your board should be sealed to the water
Having a slight bend in the arms and space from the board when going under the wave will give you more control of the board. It also ensures you don't actually have contact with your head to the board, which could result in an injury. Hope this helps!
Thanks for the additional information! Looking forward to trying this out.
2:56-3:01
100% Nusa Lembongan, Bali 😆
Thanks, I thought that was it. Went there 18years ago but had one of my best surfs ever at Lacerations. W
I am very fond of that place.
Nice video. can i use the turtle roll in bigger waves 6 to 8 ft on a midlength?? i found it really hard to duck dive and i get smashed all the time!
If duck diving is not available to you then the turtle roll is the next most preferable method. 6-8ft waves however are very big and powerful. There may be times when the wave is simply too strong for you to complete this technique. The dive under last resort can also be an option too if need be.
Where was this video taken?
It was mostly shot in Lembongan, Bali.
I've never actually done a turtle roll
longboards are too big for me to control
and shortboards don't really need it, you can just pierce through
yeah and as mentioned in this video, it's actually kind of hard, I should work on it
If it’s a bigger day I ditch the board but hold the rail guard close to the board and swim under. That way the board isn’t gonna hit anyone.
Exactly. This technique is a "last resort" option, and should only be used when surfers know they have no one within their close proximity.
Excellent! Thanks!
So helpfull and clear. Thank you so much
🤎
Flip the board when ducking under and hold the nose, water passes over much easier and won’t pull you back
Could you also list the surfspots in the video please? I would love to know where those beautiful places are
These tutorials were filmed in Nusa Lembongan, Indonesia!
Great video. Funny thinking this guy had to re create every mistake possible. All while he’s missing some good waves. That didn’t go un noticed my friend.
Hang on to your equipment!
If you're thinking of ditching your board the first thing you do is look behind. If someone's there you just have to tough it out and try to keep your board. Throwing it away in someone's face is a no-go. That being said, don't paddle out just behind another longboard!
Your "dive under technique" is recognised by most surfers as a last resort and an absolute must is to check that there is no one behind you that might get hit by your board. If there is you must not throw your board away. Yes it's tough, that's why it is a last resort. Failing to mention this is irresponsible.
They do emphasize it :) Just after they explain the technique
@@Explogene thanks we were just about to write the same, but maybe it was not clear enough. We will make sure to make it as clear as possible next time!
I also feel like it should have been much clearer and probably come both before AND after explaining the “technique”. This should be considered an absolute last resort. I literally got a friend in the hospital at the moment because of some $#@ longboarder doing this without even looking while they were both paddling back out. He might not walk again.
The issue with this tutorial is that you frame it as “a technique”. It’s not. It’s a last resort that should never happen, especially on a longboard.
Ive always called that "Bailing the board". It's sort of admitting defeat.
I surf some crowded breaks and try very to keep control or at least contact with my board. Shits gonna happen. But paddling out and being in control (and safe) are more important than riding waves imo.
What is this spot?
Great!
I tried turtle roll but my body keeps floating up causing only small spaces left between me and my board, sometimes my body will even push the board out of the water. I tried to sink but I can’t, anyway to fix that??
Hey there. Ensure the nose of your surfboard is sunk and sealed to the water when completing your turtle roll. It can also help to paddle at the wave with speed and power before flipping your board. Make sure you have a slight bend in the arms once flipped, and a strong hold on the rails of your board. This should help you to gain more control of your board underwater. If these steps are followed correctly, it should help with your problem. We hope this helps!
Bend your elbows 90 degrees, then focus on keeping your entire forearms touching the board, up to the elbows. This will cause your body to stay vertical underwater rather than floating horizontally. Dunno why but it always works. Been doing it for years.
I think you might be rolling too far in advance. You want to time the roll to be just before the whitewater washes over you. You definitely need some momentum, too. And, possibly, your body is too horizontal. I try to let my legs sink down at least 45 degrees.
Turn your head to the side during the turtle roll. You can smash your face if you are a beginner and screw it up.
Very cool
Make sure you are using a really strong leg rope, ditch the board throw it behind you towards the beach and dive under the waves and drag the sucker. Lol its amazing when you pop up behind a breaker and you can see your 9'6" mal fluttering around on the inshore side of the breaker about 5 times further away than you ever imagined your leg rope could stretch 🤣
What happens if sharks are under the waves?
Stay outta the water if you’re afraid 😅
if you're a grommet sit on the beach and watch experienced surfers.. don't be afraid to ask them...if you are genuine one will take you under their wing and even introduce you to the locals who will teach you respect in the lineup and most likely let you have one on your own all the while laughing because they will remember when they were at your level..
Try paddling around the bloddy break .instead of through the breaking waves where people are riDing the waesv
Where is this break
Is no one gonna talk about the kid at 5:15 that just disappeared into the whitewash?
I miss Nusa Lembongan...
Never ditch your board ever on purpose!
If you have to ditch your board. Make sure there isn't anyone behind you... Cardinal sin.
Where’s the snow?
Since I still find it pretty hard to catch a wave, I figure I turn around and pretend to paddle to catch it. The wave will just leave me in place, so I can turn around and continue paddling out 😅😅😅
Get close to the front , take it on the head , show the wave who's boss
Locate the rip tide and let nature do most of the work, but only on a surfboard!!!
Don't be an idiot - don't let go of your board - if you're tempted to do the "dive under" technique (DON'T DO IT) - check out Wingnut's technique where he grabs the opposite rail and buries the nose of his board in the water before he gets pummeled - fewer opportunities to HARM SURROUNDING SURFERS. I'm sensitive to this as I have new stitches on my forehead b/c some idiot let go of their board in the surf - DON'T BE AN IDIOT!
I grew up when there were no leashes
Ditch your board as a last resort. With practice you’d be surprised how much board you can duck dive.
Tip one, don’t ride a longboard
Tip two, if you must ride one they are for waist high mellow peelers only
How should one learn then?
If there is a 400 lb. Polynesian paddling behind you don’t let go of your board
You really need to think about other surfers if you dump your board. Absolutely last option.
Got my nose broken by some stupid Japanese tourist "ditching"
Turtle does not work, even when you do it perfecto, best advise is study the waves and wait for a calm to paddle out.
It’s an Eskimo roll.
Leash
I didn't know that ditching your board was a technique.
It’s a last resort technique
Das brett loslassen 😂 wie dumm ist der tipp denn. Und sack gefähtlich für alle anderen.😅
I dove under a wave like a b life guard/with my 9.2 behind.
An old guy/like me? GAVE ME A VERBAL ABOUT IT.
That was it.
I just went in and watched with my wife.
Guess that was the last time i tried my Hobbie.
ULROLO
Turtle rolls are energy wasters and a real danger in bigger surf.
I am strong enough to duckdive it, it's not deep but beats it
What break? Your joking, YEAH
Ditching the board? are you seriously...
this is a terrible video. first- do not let go of your board. second- do not let go of your board. third- see points one and two. fourth- if you can't figure out how to get out in such small waves you should try a different sport. in any real line up you will be sent home for this kind of foolishness. a useful video would show how to properly get a longboard out in large surf as opposed to promoting dangerous behavior in tiny surf.
Never let your board go or don’t go surfing. If your board comes at me in the surf you can bet I gonna be pissed . You will be called out. Bad advice!