Not sure if it's mentioned by others in the comments but before winding the calliper back you should open the brake fluid reservoir as this lets the back pressure your creating escape and you can check your fluid levels 👍🏼then after fitting, close fluid cap and pump brakes
NEVER use anti-seize on brakes bolts! Use Loctite, this will ensure the bolts don't vibrate out. I had one rear caliper loose the bolts, the assembly went forward ripped parking brake cable, brake hose broken, etc. Anti-seize was in the bolt holes! Also appears to be copper anti-seize, should not use copper unless called for. Copper is reactive, can cause galvanic corrosion. Use the nickel anti-seize.
Pro tip (not really). Put the lug nuts on the studs before you hammer away on the stuck rotor. If you strike a stud, you’ll be replacing it. Don’t ask me how i know 😂.
I liked your video, but there are three points worth noting: you should have given that hub a good clean from rust after removing the rotor, especially the centre ring, too much grease on the disc pads when just a smear is ok, and never ever use the ratchet end of a spanner to break or tighten a bolt, use the fixed end to do this, and the ratchet end to spin it out. you can damage the ratchet pin if you put excess force on it, just use it as a speed spanner once you've released the torque....thats why the two ends of these spanners are the same size. regards.
anti-size destroy rubber on the pins I would use silicone grease because Silicone grease is commonly used for lubricating and preserving rubber parts, such as O-rings. Additionally, silicone grease does not swell or soften the rubber, which can be a problem with hydrocarbon-based greases. It functions well as a corrosion-inhibitor and lubricant for purposes that require a thicker lubricant.
I have a 2012 Ford Focus SE I wonder if it has brake pads in the back cuz I didn't see any it looks all around can you let me know I think it just has front brake pads
I did this a couple weeks ago. Not a bad job but it took me close to an hour the get the wheels off. Soaked the crap out of them with penetrating oil and it barely helped
NEVER use the slotted and drilled rotors in the salt belt, they are short lived. Then the rust in the slots and holes will come out when you hit the brakes hard and it acts like a lubricant and greatly increase your stopping distance. Use high carbon content rotors for long life.
You do not, you can even just use a normal C Clamp and some thin slice of wood to go over the piston, you just need something to squeeze that piston back in, that kit is just specifically for a range of makes and models to do the same job. Be sure to take your brake cap off before compressing the piston, don’t be afraid to give it some oomf while decompressing the piston because if you don’t do it far enough, then the new pads won’t fit on with the caliper and rotor, and you’ll have to take it all back off and try to decompress it even more. Also like the previous comment mentioned, at most auto stores like O’Reillys and AutoZone, they allow you to rent the tool kit used here to decompress the piston, you pay a flat amount, and once you return it they refund you.
@@alexanderquilty5705 ,piston will need to turn,you cannot compress it,only some older vehicles had straight push,these have to turn. There are methods such as pipe wrench,point nose pliers,angle grinder spanner maybe. Do not force piston straight in. Front is straight in.
They did really good, only had them for 8 months and put 15000 miles. They still looked like new when I sold the focus last December, to get an AWD Subaru Crosstrek.
On the front calipers, yes, but the rear calipers need the tool due to the parking brake mechanism. You can get away with using pliers in a pinch, but the tool makes it a lot easier.
Not sure if it's mentioned by others in the comments but before winding the calliper back you should open the brake fluid reservoir as this lets the back pressure your creating escape and you can check your fluid levels 👍🏼then after fitting, close fluid cap and pump brakes
The piston compression tool is a must, one of the most important tools for the job
i tok some pliers and that worked just fine
2011 ford focus
@@fjdud hi that can work however it is hit or miss as compression and twist is needed at the same
Glad the pliers worked
@@pteamg did not need force. Slight preasure and twisting. I was also glad haha :)
C clap and vise grips do good to
Thank you so much sir! The passenger side took us almost a full day. But after finding this video this drivers side took me less than an hour.
NEVER use anti-seize on brakes bolts! Use Loctite, this will ensure the bolts don't vibrate out. I had one rear caliper loose the bolts, the assembly went forward ripped parking brake cable, brake hose broken, etc. Anti-seize was in the bolt holes! Also appears to be copper anti-seize, should not use copper unless called for. Copper is reactive, can cause galvanic corrosion. Use the nickel anti-seize.
Should have told people that you need to open the brake fluid reservoir cap open when tightening back up the calipers
Pro tip (not really). Put the lug nuts on the studs before you hammer away on the stuck rotor. If you strike a stud, you’ll be replacing it. Don’t ask me how
i know 😂.
I liked your video, but there are three points worth noting: you should have given that hub a good clean from rust after removing the rotor, especially the centre ring, too much grease on the disc pads when just a smear is ok, and never ever use the ratchet end of a spanner to break or tighten a bolt, use the fixed end to do this, and the ratchet end to spin it out. you can damage the ratchet pin if you put excess force on it, just use it as a speed spanner once you've released the torque....thats why the two ends of these spanners are the same size. regards.
4 years later. Mucho rusto. I stripped and sheared all da bolts. Lots of fun like you said
I know it is cheaper to use chrome sockets on impact tools, but it is also a good way to get hurt. They will shatter eventually.
anti-size destroy rubber on the pins I would use silicone grease because Silicone grease is commonly used for lubricating and preserving rubber parts, such as O-rings. Additionally, silicone grease does not swell or soften the rubber, which can be a problem with hydrocarbon-based greases. It functions well as a corrosion-inhibitor and lubricant for purposes that require a thicker lubricant.
Yep. I just did all the brakes on my 2014 SE. I've been using the ceramic silicone brake paste on brake jobs for a while now.
I have a 2012 Ford Focus SE I wonder if it has brake pads in the back cuz I didn't see any it looks all around can you let me know I think it just has front brake pads
I did this a couple weeks ago. Not a bad job but it took me close to an hour the get the wheels off. Soaked the crap out of them with penetrating oil and it barely helped
Did anyone notice that the torque wrench was set at 70 not 80?
The lug nut torque spec for my 2013 focus is 100.
You are correct it's 100 when making the video I had set it for my wife's 2014 Scion XB which is 80.
NEVER use the slotted and drilled rotors in the salt belt, they are short lived. Then the rust in the slots and holes will come out when you hit the brakes hard and it acts like a lubricant and greatly increase your stopping distance. Use high carbon content rotors for long life.
I put powerstops on all my track cars! awesome brakes, low dust, and the brake fade definitely takes much longer than Brembos or stock pads, rotors
Do I have to use that specific piston reset tool? Or can I just buy any standard reset tool?
You can get loner ones at some parts stores, you just have to leave a deposit
You do not, you can even just use a normal C Clamp and some thin slice of wood to go over the piston, you just need something to squeeze that piston back in, that kit is just specifically for a range of makes and models to do the same job. Be sure to take your brake cap off before compressing the piston, don’t be afraid to give it some oomf while decompressing the piston because if you don’t do it far enough, then the new pads won’t fit on with the caliper and rotor, and you’ll have to take it all back off and try to decompress it even more. Also like the previous comment mentioned, at most auto stores like O’Reillys and AutoZone, they allow you to rent the tool kit used here to decompress the piston, you pay a flat amount, and once you return it they refund you.
@@alexanderquilty5705 ,piston will need to turn,you cannot compress it,only some older vehicles had straight push,these have to turn.
There are methods such as pipe wrench,point nose pliers,angle grinder spanner maybe.
Do not force piston straight in.
Front is straight in.
Why does my ford focus rear brake use brake shoes instead of brake pads?
You most likely have drum brakes not disc. Depending on Trim level some had drums (lower trim level) and others had discs.
Any feedback on the power stop z3 evolution brake?? How’s the performance and durability?? Thank you for the upload..
They did really good, only had them for 8 months and put 15000 miles. They still looked like new when I sold the focus last December, to get an AWD Subaru Crosstrek.
Can we used a C clamp
With vise grips yes
On the front calipers, yes, but the rear calipers need the tool due to the parking brake mechanism. You can get away with using pliers in a pinch, but the tool makes it a lot easier.
You shouldn't be using a crome socket with the impact gun
You are lucky where you placed the jack because you cannot do that on a 15 plate z tec s because of covers.
: Torque to tighten the rear brakes 7mm? Tq for the sway bars?
You used anti-seize on the caliper bracket bolts? I think you meant to use blue threadlocker, no? Yikes.
Threadlocker isn`t heatproof.
Very Good!!! Great camera work
Lol no ratchet due to budget? Would totally be worth the time savings in the long run :)
Mine is a 2013 and the past owners abuse the shit out of it
Yet another vid where someone is using chromed sockets on impact tools. Trying to lose an eye?