Big thanks! Just loved everything about your presentation ... and also your tolerance with the few Philistines who couldn't resist 'having a go'! Keep it up ... please!
Thanks a million mate, last night I watched twice, today I did both sides on a 60 and new callipers and rotors. Thanks to this demonstration I could confidently do the task and guide a mate through the other side at the same time.
Great Vid, A quick tip to make life a little easier. If you put your bearing races in the freezer overnight before you install they slightly contract from the cold and go in much easier without having to bash them, they are still tight but you can tap them in instead of bashing them in then they expand back with normal temperature, I still use a little cam bearing grease on the race so it's not dry when fitting them in.
About 30 years ago I used that very trick to insert valve guides in a mini head, after the head sat in the oven for a couple of hours. (Yes I am that old!) Another trick I've used is to turn a can of air duster upside down and spray the liquid on the part that needs to shrink. I must drag out the FLIR one day and see how cold I can get it!
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Thank you sir. But it's not the mighty Y62. Instead, my daily drive is a humble farmer's FJ62 in the beautiful SA BushVeld. Pardon me the miscommunication please. Best.
Just watched your video, in order to help a mate change the swivel seals on his FJ45. A great video. A suggestion for helping align the felt, rubber and retaining plates is to make two studs that you can insert into the housing.I usually use long bolts of the correct thread, cut the head off, then cut a slot for a standard screwdriver. Install the studs loosely, one top, one bottom. Hang the rubber, felt and plates on the studs, add the bolts. Then wind out the studs and replace with the standard bolts. Cheers and thanks for the great video Greg
Very thorough instruction and some great hints and advice. Murphy dictates that the call to help the neighbour with the snake will only come at the most inopportune time. I could just hear your thoughts at that moment but I won't repeat them here.
Mate ur a legend so glad I found this informative guide. I need to do mine but have been putting it off due to nerves and considering taking it to the shop. But now I've seen this im gonna give it a crack. Cheers for the confidence boost mate. Subbed 🤘
Mate, stuff like this can be done with reasonably basic tools in your driveway or garage. As 4WDers, the more self sufficient we are, the better off we are.
When removing the conical washers at the start, you should leave the nut on there flush with the stud to reduce risk of damage to the stud and also give you a bigger surface area to hit.
Last year I did four of these on 80 series cruisers in outback NSW. Now have one in my garage that needs it (leaking inner seal) after a trip to Cape York. Still learnt a lot from your practical video. Thanks!
Awesome video. Thank you for sharing this! Very helpful. Following from the usa. Need to rebuild my 61s knuckles, i will be following your video. I am one of the lucky few who is running a 12HT in the usa. Cheers!
Most of the landcruisers here in Oz are diesel and will often sell for twice the price of there petrol bretheran. I can only imagine how hard diesels are to come across in the states!
@@LockyourHubs4WDing 12HT was never offered here. We only have imports from Japan, Europe, South America etc. Extremely rare and hard to find Left hand drive versions. A lot of people drive JDM 61s but RHD is a turn-off here in the USA. Mostly we have FJ60 and some 62. FJ62 are more desirable and more expensive. Some BJ60 available too.
Hey mate , where did you get your aftermarket spindle nut from ? I spoke with superior eng and they say they don’t make one for a 76 ? I thought they would be the same same as other models ?
@@davidmirfin1380 check out roadrunner, says it fits the 79 so should fit the 76 as well. www.roadrunneroffroad.com.au/300519-kit-toyota-chromoly-spindle-nut-set-live-ax
Thank you very much for your video. I would like to ask, during regular maintenance when applying grease, is the grease injection point the screw to the left of the kingpin at 46:33 in the video?
Hello from California. This is a great video and you made something overwhelming look so easy and straightforward. I had mine done on my FJ62 by a professional, but will tackle it myself next time. Just curious about setting the preload, that seems a bit tricky.
The main thing with the bearing, both the kingpin and wheel bearings it to make sure 100% the outer races are seated properly, otherwise the corrugations are going to ruin the preload on the bearings and then they usually destroy themselves. A lot of experienced people just use feel to set the preload, though I though it better in the vid to set the preload the way I know it works, measure it and quote a figure, because not everyone has done it a dozen times. Just take your time (photos on the phone at different angles are always good when you're pulling apart something new) And don't forget lots of rags!
@@LockyourHubs4WDing I am living in Kurdistan region of north Iraq we have to much car Land Cruiser models 1980s very cheap one Land Cruiser 1,100$ USA
hi Major parts u missed 1/ axle/seal center line sets the total shim pack thickness eg top + bottom . Toyota dealers use this tool 2/ remove shims equally top and bottom to set preload drag on king pin bearing 3/ check drag with spring pull gauge ,,,,,,,,set drag to 6kg Toyota spec ------Aftermarket 1/ eccentric king pin bearings ,allows adjustment of caster and camber for wheel alignment
If you're replacing the king pin bearings with decent quality units, I haven't found the need to adjust the shim stack. I've also never seen shims on the bottom, only the top.
How did you get the cv-joint off the axle? I have seen several videos showing to put the shaft in a vice and banging on the cv inner race with a hammer & punch. I have replaced many cv-joints on passenger cars, & 4x4 SUV & pick-ups and managed to remove the cv-joint using the same method. However, on 4x4 such as the Land Cruisers, Nissan Patrol and Land Rovers with solid axle housings it is almost impossible to get them off without damaging something. Some of the ones I did manage to get out had the c-clip mangled by the splines when forced through the cv-joint. Of all of the on-line videos, some of which are great videos showing the complete repair / rebuild of the cv-joint (cleaning, replacing & lubing them) but not one of them showed how they remover the cv from the axle shaft. I made up a tool consisting of a pipe long enough, approximately 4 inches longer than the axle shaft & large enough to fit over the axle shaft so that the pipe fits against the inner race of the cv-joint. By inserting the axle shaft and cv-joint into the pipe vertically and lifting the shaft & cv and slamming it onto the pipe usually does the trick on the SUV, Pick-ups and passenger cars (External type shafts & axles). However, 50% of the time on the solid axle type housings even with the pipe jig I just cannot get them apart. What I did notice on L Cruiser cv-joint the outer end of the cv-joint where the shaft splines onto the cv-joint the bore was slightly chamfered so as to collapse the c-clip when the shaft is inserted into the cv-joint. However, the inner bore was not chamfered which prevented the c-clip from collapsing when trying to remove the shaft. I am assuming that the chamfered side should be on the inner side so as to collapse the c-clip and easy to remove the axle. I have seen one video of the complete rebuild and replacing the cv-joint on a solid axel type where the mechanic mentioned he had to remove the inner c-clip prior to removing the axel however, he didn’t show that procedure in the video. I cannot see any way how he could get access to that c-clip with the shaft installed into the cv-joint. If anyone has any suggestions or comments on this please comment.
I've also used the pipe trick. I've used the brass drift and hammer method in another vid (replacing CV boots) on IFS cars. I too have mangled the clip to get them apart. It usually involves lots of swearing.....
Hello from San Diego, my name is Adan, thanks for your help!!, I have a 1982 Toyota pickup when I turn either left or right I have a weird pop , any ideas what I’m dealing with?
Nice efforts. Nice video. This is a Teaching video for many like me. Plz do add some links of every tool you used in this video. It would be highly helpful to find those online. Keep uploading. BIG THUMBS UP….. Warm Regards. -42:10 “separater” plz add online link for this particularly.
Hi from Sout Africa!! Thanks for a great video!!..my cruiser 79 pickup 4.5 is on tressels for recon both front cv's my question is..can i remove both cv axles at once?..will i be able to push the shafts back into the diff?..
Hey Cobber, I believe the after market front hub locking nut kit doesn't work on fulltime fwd , was hoping to use on 105, use the 3 x finer for rear. Using the "spindle greaser" conflicts with using moly grease to the extent you use it ? any thoughts ? and noticed you mixed moly and bearing grease when spindle bearing was on spindle hub with moly !
Hmmmm, I've done a full time 80 before and the kit I use is exactly the same either full time or part time. The kit supplies new outer and inner locking nuts and tab washer. Not sure if the 105 is different? The spindle greaser will "hopefully" push out the old grease and deposit new, either moly or HTB. Doesn't matter, new grease is better than old! I've not seen any adverse issues arise using moly and HTB grease in close proximity to one another.
Hi mate, ive done that side and now doing the passenger side, and for the life of me, i cant get the longer axle back into the diff. I feel ive tried so much ill ruin the new seal. any advice would be good
Great Video mate very educational. question when you tight the spindle nut for preload some people light tight it , some medium tight it, but your was extreme tight is what's the difference
Tighten the inner preload nut tight first to settle the bearing races in the hub and then back it off and tighten to spec on the second go. That way you're sure when you hit the corrugations, your wheel bearings won't loose the preload.
@Lock your Hubs 4WDing one question when I'm in a rocky area or off-road sometimes I hear a clunk noise behind my foot or my right wheel RHD(right hand drive) I changed everything tie rod ends, sway bar links and bushings. greased right side axle. still I hear the same noise any idea?
@@jdmgm6765 check for cracks in the chassis around the steering box, it's a fairly common issue unfortunately. If you find cracks, they'll need to be properly welded up and then re-enforcing plates welded over the top to make sure it doesn't happen again.
@@jdmgm6765 the easiest way to check the kingpins is lift up the RHF wheel, grab it at 12 and 6 o'clock, give it a wiggle. If you can feel play, that's the kingpin bearings. If you do the same thing at 9 and 3 o'clock, and feel movement, that's wheel bearings.
I'm interested in the spindle nut and locking mechanism with Allen keys.. I can't seem to find anything online, could you perhaps point me in the right direction? Cheers 🍻
Hi I notice in this video you state the final wheel bearing pre load was 25nm but in another video of yours doing a similar job you say its 25ftlb can you clarify which it is please ?
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Loved your video thanks. wondering what long term implications are (for my vdj79) if cir clip comes off and then axle won't pull out sufficiently to allow reinsertion? Can I 'safely' drive without engaging hub and 4WD? Cheers
What size is the insertion tool you used on the inner axel seal? Do you know of it's the same on the 60? I'm trying to get my ducks in row for my first bearing/knuckle rebuild on my cruiser.
I used the 50mm insertion tool to insert the inner axle seal, it's the same size I use for the king pin bearings. Unfortunately I'm not sure if the 60 series is the same.
Just take your time mate, if I'm tackling something I haven't done before, I usually take a few phone photos from various angles at several stages during the pull down. It's come on handy more thsn once.
Hi mate, been a while since you posted this but was just curious, where did you pick up the limited slip double lip seal and fancy locknut and tab washer? Been dying to try and figure it out as I can’t find them for the life of me. Cheers.
HI, thanks for the video. The torques you mention are the same also for 70 series or are there any differencies? Another thing, a pre-load is to be adjusted only by a torque or there is something more to do? Thanks.
While I used the same torque on a 79, you're probably best consulting the factory service manual. When it comes to the wheel bearing preloaded adjustment, there is a process in the factory service manual that involves using a spring balance on one of the studs and adjusting the preload on the nut and checking the drag on the bearing using the spring balance. I did try it once, though really cranking down on the preload nut didn't seem to make that much difference on the reading from the spring balance.
What DIY maintenance task do you want a video on?
Tie rod replacement would be great. Loved this vid!
Valve clearance adjustment (on a 75 series) would be good too.
Twin lipped seal was a brilliant idea as well as the locking nut for the wheel bearings. Long live the 80 series 😉 Great vid thanks
Ujoints. It's never a good time and a different perspective always helps. This is quite a soothing video
Wheel alignment
Big thanks! Just loved everything about your presentation ... and also your tolerance with the few Philistines who couldn't resist 'having a go'! Keep it up ... please!
I've been married for 30 years now, it's just water off a ducks back! 😂
Thanks a million mate, last night I watched twice, today I did both sides on a 60 and new callipers and rotors. Thanks to this demonstration I could confidently do the task and guide a mate through the other side at the same time.
Fantastic! I'm glad we could help a little bit to keep the mighty 60 on the road!
Awesome mate. I have recommended this video a few times. Learnt heaps. You are legend amongst 80 series owners.
Not sure about that, but thanks mate!
I love the way you teach i always watch your videos directly in uganda 🇺🇬🙏
Thanks mate!
Bros a genius, so many nuances, you’re a master tech brother
Thanks mate!
Great informative video. Easy to follow and understand. Thank you for posting.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Bloody brilliant mate! Thank you for educating me, I learned invaluable knowledge, a great service you're doing for community!
Glad you liked it mate, I'm all about helping people be more self sufficient.
Thanks for very clear and concise instruction. I am about to do my HJ75.
Just take your time, it's a pretty straightforward job, just messy.
Great Vid, A quick tip to make life a little easier. If you put your bearing races in the freezer overnight before you install they slightly contract from the cold and go in much easier without having to bash them, they are still tight but you can tap them in instead of bashing them in then they expand back with normal temperature, I still use a little cam bearing grease on the race so it's not dry when fitting them in.
About 30 years ago I used that very trick to insert valve guides in a mini head, after the head sat in the oven for a couple of hours. (Yes I am that old!)
Another trick I've used is to turn a can of air duster upside down and spray the liquid on the part that needs to shrink. I must drag out the FLIR one day and see how cold I can get it!
Thanks mate.
My 62 has a concerning audible knock front left under certain circumstances.
Your tutorial equips me for the urgent task ahead...
The Y62 being IFS is pretty similar to the front of a 200, I've got a video on the channel on how to change one out.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Thank you sir. But it's not the mighty Y62.
Instead, my daily drive is a humble farmer's FJ62 in the beautiful SA BushVeld.
Pardon me the miscommunication please.
Best.
Apologies! Of the two, I would much prefer yours than a Y62!
Отличное видео!
Спасибо огромное!
Особенно отмечу, с какой любовью автор крутит железки! Круто!
Thanks!
One of the best videos on this subject. Thank you.
You're welcome!
Thanks!
Thanks mate, much appreciated!
Just watched your video, in order to help a mate change the swivel seals on his FJ45. A great video.
A suggestion for helping align the felt, rubber and retaining plates is to make two studs that you can insert into the housing.I usually use long bolts of the correct thread, cut the head off, then cut a slot for a standard screwdriver.
Install the studs loosely, one top, one bottom. Hang the rubber, felt and plates on the studs, add the bolts. Then wind out the studs and replace with the standard bolts.
Cheers and thanks for the great video
Greg
That's a great idea! Like putting wheels back on an Amarok.
Looks like the rubber mallet and brass drift will be my friends when doing this on an 1986 Land Cruiser.
110%!
Very thorough instruction and some great hints and advice. Murphy dictates that the call to help the neighbour with the snake will only come at the most inopportune time. I could just hear your thoughts at that moment but I won't repeat them here.
Thanks, the snake was at one of the kid's houses, over half an hour's drive from us!
Mate ur a legend so glad I found this informative guide. I need to do mine but have been putting it off due to nerves and considering taking it to the shop. But now I've seen this im gonna give it a crack. Cheers for the confidence boost mate. Subbed 🤘
Mate, stuff like this can be done with reasonably basic tools in your driveway or garage. As 4WDers, the more self sufficient we are, the better off we are.
Have done this 3 or 4 times now. This is a really good video.
Thanks!
3:05 praise the gods, a Toyota youtuber that doesn't like flogging out the sides of the hub!
I would, but the stupid cone washers wouldn't seat properly afterward.... :)
Everything you did made complete sense. Thanks for explaining all, to include the after market lock nut/washer
Thanks mate, the aftermarket lock nut is great.
Thanks mate! learned a lot. Enough to giver a go on the old 60. Cheers from Canada
Thanks!
When removing the conical washers at the start, you should leave the nut on there flush with the stud to reduce risk of damage to the stud and also give you a bigger surface area to hit.
Not a bad idea, though as long as you use a brass drift or hammer, you're not going to damage the threads of the stud.
Good on you mate
Thanks!
Last year I did four of these on 80 series cruisers in outback NSW. Now have one in my garage that needs it (leaking inner seal) after a trip to Cape York.
Still learnt a lot from your practical video. Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it, I've done a few over the years! The more I do, the more inclined I am to drive around bog holes!
outstanding! working on fj60. this video is informative.
Glad it helped!
Awesome video. Thank you for sharing this! Very helpful. Following from the usa. Need to rebuild my 61s knuckles, i will be following your video. I am one of the lucky few who is running a 12HT in the usa. Cheers!
Most of the landcruisers here in Oz are diesel and will often sell for twice the price of there petrol bretheran. I can only imagine how hard diesels are to come across in the states!
@@LockyourHubs4WDing 12HT was never offered here. We only have imports from Japan, Europe, South America etc. Extremely rare and hard to find Left hand drive versions. A lot of people drive JDM 61s but RHD is a turn-off here in the USA.
Mostly we have FJ60 and some 62. FJ62 are more desirable and more expensive. Some BJ60 available too.
Great video ! I have a leaking wiper seal on passenger side. Where is your work shop hahah . Thanks bud . Great video
My "workshop" for this one was in the driveway, right next to the bins! :) Glad you like the video mate.
those races on the wheel bearing look nasty as. all darkened. Good vid.
Thanks!
Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge, it’s much appreciated!
I will refer back to this when doing my 76 .
Thanks again
No worries mate, I just did an early 79 (1hd-fte) and other than the number of wheel studs, it's virtuality the same.
Hey mate , where did you get your aftermarket spindle nut from ? I spoke with superior eng and they say they don’t make one for a 76 ? I thought they would be the same same as other models ?
@@davidmirfin1380 check out roadrunner, says it fits the 79 so should fit the 76 as well.
www.roadrunneroffroad.com.au/300519-kit-toyota-chromoly-spindle-nut-set-live-ax
Will doing my ln106r hilux soon and this is very informative
Glad it helped!
Best info video I've ever seen on the knuckle assembly!
Thanks mate!
Nice 🔥
Thanks 🔥
This video is very well done ..
When I'm out in the bush and if something stuffs up I'll be able to fix it myself ..!! Cheers
Thanks! Glad you liked the video.
Great video … super helpful. cheers, mate!
Thank you very much for your video. I would like to ask, during regular maintenance when applying grease, is the grease injection point the screw to the left of the kingpin at 46:33 in the video?
Yes, you definitely can put Grease in the knuckle there.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing nice! thanks so much
Excellent video mate. Thanks so much for posting up. I have learnt a lot.
Glad you liked it!
G'day mate , awsome video thanks for the info
No worries!
Replacing my brake rotors on 80 series and this helped a lot (mines part time 4wd so had no clue what I was doing)
Cheers!
brilliant , exactly what i have been looking for , thanks mate
Cheers! Glad you liked it.
Hello from California. This is a great video and you made something overwhelming look so easy and straightforward. I had mine done on my FJ62 by a professional, but will tackle it myself next time. Just curious about setting the preload, that seems a bit tricky.
The main thing with the bearing, both the kingpin and wheel bearings it to make sure 100% the outer races are seated properly, otherwise the corrugations are going to ruin the preload on the bearings and then they usually destroy themselves.
A lot of experienced people just use feel to set the preload, though I though it better in the vid to set the preload the way I know it works, measure it and quote a figure, because not everyone has done it a dozen times.
Just take your time (photos on the phone at different angles are always good when you're pulling apart something new) And don't forget lots of rags!
Great video. Great to hear the couple of extra tips coming from experience.
Thanks! I'm glad you enjoyed the video.
awesome vid mate, very thorough and in depth. subbed and liked!
Glad you enjoyed it!
33:37 Where do you buy the "double-lip" seal and what are they called in ebay/amazon etc?
It seems I can't find one for my 75 series.
Thank you.
Terrain tamer stock them.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Thank you. And your video had helped me A LOT in rebuilding my 1985 landcruiser knuckle!
Nice video. Would love to see steering overhaul / maintenance vids
Great suggestion!
locating the felt and ring etc - put shortened skewer sticks through the holes to locate the assembly in position. Replace one by one with bolts
That's a fantastic idea!
Hello from Russia! very useful video)
Thanks from Australia!
Absolute legend, thanks
You're welcome!
nicely done sir., u made something so hard look so easy and fun to do. keep it up and stay safe mate
Thanks mate!
brilliant video man
Thanks!
Brilliant! Thanks. Much appreciated. Learnt a lot of important tips. Well... here goes... :)
Glad you liked it!
Very thank for video information
You're welcome!
@@LockyourHubs4WDing
I am living in Kurdistan region of north Iraq
we have to much car Land Cruiser models 1980s very cheap one Land Cruiser 1,100$ USA
Well detailed video 👍
Glad you enjoyed the video!
Thanks.. good video & explain .🔥❤️..
Thanks!
hi
Major parts u missed
1/ axle/seal center line sets the total shim pack thickness eg top + bottom . Toyota dealers use this tool
2/ remove shims equally top and bottom to set preload drag on king pin bearing
3/ check drag with spring pull gauge ,,,,,,,,set drag to 6kg Toyota spec
------Aftermarket
1/ eccentric king pin bearings ,allows adjustment of caster and camber for wheel alignment
If you're replacing the king pin bearings with decent quality units, I haven't found the need to adjust the shim stack. I've also never seen shims on the bottom, only the top.
Excellent tutorial mate!
Thanks! Glad you liked it.
Very informative video.
Question. Why do you tightened the preload bearing so much ? Should be finger tight or im wrong?
Thanks
For road going stuff finger tight is fine. For off-road, you need to settle the bearings properly, or the preload will loosen up in service.
Serpentine belt tensioner assembly and water pump and alternator would be good. All that gear sitting on the front.
Sir, doesn’t the chromoly lock nut Allen head bolts hit the free wheeling hub ? The Allen heads are out quite a bit.
Brilliant video mate. Has given me the confidence to do mine, thanks!
Thanks mate! If you've got any questions, don't hesitate to drop a comment asking.
How did you get the cv-joint off the axle? I have seen several videos showing to put the shaft in a vice and banging on the cv inner race with a hammer & punch.
I have replaced many cv-joints on passenger cars, & 4x4 SUV & pick-ups and managed to remove the cv-joint using the same method. However, on 4x4 such
as the Land Cruisers, Nissan Patrol and Land Rovers with solid axle housings it is almost impossible to get them off without damaging something. Some of the
ones I did manage to get out had the c-clip mangled by the splines when forced through the cv-joint. Of all of the on-line videos, some of which are great
videos showing the complete repair / rebuild of the cv-joint (cleaning, replacing & lubing them) but not one of them showed how they remover the cv from the axle shaft.
I made up a tool consisting of a pipe long enough, approximately 4 inches longer than the axle shaft & large enough to fit over the axle shaft so that the pipe fits against
the inner race of the cv-joint. By inserting the axle shaft and cv-joint into the pipe vertically and lifting the shaft & cv and slamming it onto the pipe usually does the trick
on the SUV, Pick-ups and passenger cars (External type shafts & axles). However, 50% of the time on the solid axle type housings even with the pipe jig I just cannot get
them apart. What I did notice on L Cruiser cv-joint the outer end of the cv-joint where the shaft splines onto the cv-joint the bore was slightly chamfered so as to collapse
the c-clip when the shaft is inserted into the cv-joint. However, the inner bore was not chamfered which prevented the c-clip
from collapsing when trying to remove the shaft. I am assuming that the chamfered side should be on the inner side so as to collapse the c-clip and easy to remove the axle.
I have seen one video of the complete rebuild and replacing the cv-joint on a solid axel type where the mechanic mentioned he had to remove the inner c-clip prior to
removing the axel however, he didn’t show that procedure in the video. I cannot see any way how he could get access to that c-clip with the shaft installed into the cv-joint.
If anyone has any suggestions or comments on this please comment.
I've also used the pipe trick. I've used the brass drift and hammer method in another vid (replacing CV boots) on IFS cars. I too have mangled the clip to get them apart. It usually involves lots of swearing.....
Do you need the spacer in place of the removed dust shield or can you just remove it
It's better with the spacer because it leaves the seal in about the same position, but I've also done it without.
Hello from San Diego, my name is Adan, thanks for your help!!, I have a 1982 Toyota pickup when I turn either left or right I have a weird pop , any ideas what I’m dealing with?
Check the tie rod ends.
following your video on a 85 FJ62, by the way what is the blue stuff your using, can't quiet make out what you said.
Just a gasket silicon sealant.
Thanks mate
No worries!
How often would you consider doing the swivel hub rebuild ? Even if hubs get a bit greasy and messy 80k ?
It depends how often and hard you go 4WDing! I do bearings once a year and knuckles every other year usually.
very informative mate, well done !
Thanks mate!
Nice efforts. Nice video. This is a Teaching video for many like me. Plz do add some links of every tool you used in this video. It would be highly helpful to find those online. Keep uploading. BIG THUMBS UP….. Warm Regards. -42:10 “separater” plz add online link for this particularly.
So i totally forgot the part where i should of put my stone gaurd back on.. any harm of leaving it off without a spacer plate ?
No, you'll be fine.
Good one Cobber - keeping it real!
Thanks mate!
Thanks 🙏😊
You're welcome!
Hi from Sout Africa!! Thanks for a great video!!..my cruiser 79 pickup 4.5 is on tressels for recon both front cv's my question is..can i remove both cv axles at once?..will i be able to push the shafts back into the diff?..
Yes, that isn't an issue.
great information, Thank you
You're welcome!
Can you show the place for the top up nut 76 series
I have a 94’ HZJ75 troopy, will it be similar to this? Both mine need replacing and am contemplating tackling the challenge!
Awesome video
It'll be almost identical, grab plenty of rags and have at it!
@@LockyourHubs4WDing your a legend! Saving me hundreds
@@brockcooper6234 It's not just the cash. The self sufficiency is priceless!
Great video thanks. What can I use instead of a brass drift ? Can’t get my hands on a brass drift or a hammer.
Aluminium should work as well.
Hey Cobber, I believe the after market front hub locking nut kit doesn't work on fulltime fwd , was hoping to use on 105, use the 3 x finer for rear.
Using the "spindle greaser" conflicts with using moly grease to the extent you use it ? any thoughts ? and noticed you mixed moly and bearing grease when spindle bearing was on spindle hub with moly !
Hmmmm, I've done a full time 80 before and the kit I use is exactly the same either full time or part time. The kit supplies new outer and inner locking nuts and tab washer. Not sure if the 105 is different?
The spindle greaser will "hopefully" push out the old grease and deposit new, either moly or HTB. Doesn't matter, new grease is better than old!
I've not seen any adverse issues arise using moly and HTB grease in close proximity to one another.
Hi mate, ive done that side and now doing the passenger side, and for the life of me, i cant get the longer axle back into the diff. I feel ive tried so much ill ruin the new seal. any advice would be good
Do you have factory lockers with the longer spline/axle? And if so is the locker turned off?
@@LockyourHubs4WDing has no lockers, ln106r 93
Great video mate! 👌
Thanks!
Great Video mate very educational.
question when you tight the spindle nut for preload some people light tight it , some medium tight it, but your was extreme tight is what's the difference
Tighten the inner preload nut tight first to settle the bearing races in the hub and then back it off and tighten to spec on the second go.
That way you're sure when you hit the corrugations, your wheel bearings won't loose the preload.
@Lock your Hubs 4WDing one question when I'm in a rocky area or off-road sometimes I hear a clunk noise behind my foot or my right wheel RHD(right hand drive)
I changed everything tie rod ends, sway bar links and bushings. greased right side axle. still I hear the same noise any idea?
@@jdmgm6765 check for cracks in the chassis around the steering box, it's a fairly common issue unfortunately. If you find cracks, they'll need to be properly welded up and then re-enforcing plates welded over the top to make sure it doesn't happen again.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing didn't see any crank rig has 150km could a king pin do that clunk noise
@@jdmgm6765 the easiest way to check the kingpins is lift up the RHF wheel, grab it at 12 and 6 o'clock, give it a wiggle. If you can feel play, that's the kingpin bearings. If you do the same thing at 9 and 3 o'clock, and feel movement, that's wheel bearings.
This is great, thanks.
Cheers!
Great video made it look so easy. Where do u get the streaming arm tool
That particular one came from Repco.
I'm interested in the spindle nut and locking mechanism with Allen keys.. I can't seem to find anything online, could you perhaps point me in the right direction?
Cheers 🍻
It's a trail gear product.
Hi I notice in this video you state the final wheel bearing pre load was 25nm but in another video of yours doing a similar job you say its 25ftlb can you clarify which it is please ?
Please see the answer to your other comment on the brake upgrade video.
Just wondering what the cir clip behind the free wheeling hub actually does? Does it stop the axle moving ?
Yep, it limits the CVs travel long ways.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Loved your video thanks. wondering what long term implications are (for my vdj79) if cir clip comes off and then axle won't pull out sufficiently to allow reinsertion? Can I 'safely' drive without engaging hub and 4WD? Cheers
@@davidmenzel5182 good question! I can't see an issue, though haven't done it so I can't recommend it
What size is the insertion tool you used on the inner axel seal? Do you know of it's the same on the 60? I'm trying to get my ducks in row for my first bearing/knuckle rebuild on my cruiser.
I used the 50mm insertion tool to insert the inner axle seal, it's the same size I use for the king pin bearings. Unfortunately I'm not sure if the 60 series is the same.
What style/brand puller did you use for the steering arm? Part # for the aftermarket rotor/spindle bearing/seal upgrade?
Great job.
California FJ60
The puller is "Repco" brand, the seals are avaliable from Terrain Tamer.
Thank you
Honestly I really can't thank you enough
Mate, glad to help!
The more self sufficient we can all be with mechanical repairs, the better off we'll be if something goes wrong outback.
Lock your Hubs 4WDing couldn't agree more!
What size brass drift would you recommend for maintenance work on the Cruiser? Cheers mate
I've got 2, a 12mm and a 20mm. That seems to cover most things I've come across.
What Types of grease were you using? is standard penrite high temp wheel bearing grease good for everything that you covered in this video?
On wheel bearings I used Casttol high temp bearing grease and for the king pin bearings and the CVs I used Penrite molygrease.
Lock your Hubs 4WDing Thanks, glad i watched this before starting the challenge of doing it, great video, cheers!
Just take your time mate, if I'm tackling something I haven't done before, I usually take a few phone photos from various angles at several stages during the pull down. It's come on handy more thsn once.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Thats a really good idea ill make sure to do that thanks!
@@LockyourHubs4WDing can you pack the hub around the cv with bearing grease? I only use moly grease for inside the cv
Hi, good video. Can you provide us with detail of the replacement oil seal please?
The double seals were purchased from Road Runner Off-Road. I understand Terrain Tamer also now sell the seals.
Could you do a power steering pump removal re build and install? On the 80
Hmmm, that could be interesting!
Hi mate, been a while since you posted this but was just curious, where did you pick up the limited slip double lip seal and fancy locknut and tab washer? Been dying to try and figure it out as I can’t find them for the life of me.
Cheers.
Terrain Tamer are the stockists!
HI, thanks for the video. The torques you mention are the same also for 70 series or are there any differencies? Another thing, a pre-load is to be adjusted only by a torque or there is something more to do? Thanks.
While I used the same torque on a 79, you're probably best consulting the factory service manual.
When it comes to the wheel bearing preloaded adjustment, there is a process in the factory service manual that involves using a spring balance on one of the studs and adjusting the preload on the nut and checking the drag on the bearing using the spring balance.
I did try it once, though really cranking down on the preload nut didn't seem to make that much difference on the reading from the spring balance.
What grease would you recommend if we can’t easily get the Penrite in the US? 1987 fj60 USA
Any quality grease will do the job, I've used Valvoline with success, the marine bearing grease seems to work great on the wheel bearings.
Thanks for this video. Will be doing my swivel hubs soon and this will help me out a lot. What is that rtv blue product? Cheers
G'day the rtv blue is a
Permatex product. www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-sensor-safe-blue-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker/
Exelente amigo 👍
Cheers!
Awesome video mate thanks a lot, youve done well, videos circulating through the cruiser groups now! How much grease did you buy?
I usually get two punnets of lithium grease and two punnets of high temp bearing grease to do the front.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing thanks mate! Would you happen to have a link for the double lip seals by any chance?
Terrain Tamer sell them.
Thanks from all russian speak LC owners
Glad you liked it!
I love the way you teach i always watch your videos directly in uganda 🇺🇬🙏