Excellent description of this task. Your commentry is precise the speed of moving along very good. Anyone following this will do a perfect job. This is perfect for the home grease monkies. Cheers NZ
Thx mate - I think this is one of the best and most detailed (sequence and torque values) videos on the net covering this job! I didn't know that trick with the stacked rims - I've been using a plastic tube so far but that doesn't work so well...I use blue seal for the hub and cone washers, makes it more waterproof.
This is a great tutorial, well done and thank you for that! Two things I learned while doing the knuckles on my 80: replace the brass bushing shown at 30:54. That bushing wears out and can cause and awful occasional grinding noise while driving, took me a while to figure out what caused that noise. Also, make sure your diff gasket isn't leaking because in order to replace it, you have to pull the birfs out again.
Thanks for a good, clear, step by step instruction video! Getting my 80 ready for a two month Kimberley trip, and this was the job I was least looking forward to. Tips and tricks based on experience, like you’ve given in this video made the job easier. I’ve watched a couple of good videos on this, but yours is among the best, and matches my 92 FJ80R, where the others are aimed at later models with significant differences. Five stars my friend.
Excellent and entertaining tutorial. I have the new model with ABS, so the mounting screw for the magnet is the perfect size to thread into the end of the axle and pull! A very satisfying maintenance project.
great video. lots of specific tips that come with experience. most knuckle rebuild videos are helpful but seem aimed at experienced mechanics. this felt like a video put together for us noobs who are leary of this job but want to take care of our Land Cruisers. when it's time I'm sure I'll be coming back to this video. thanks again.
Excellent video!! You and the guy from Australia have the 2 best tutorial videos out there. Adding to my library to use when I finally do this job. Edit: for others that are watching (2-3x 😁) if you have differential lockers, from reading and research, the lockers need to be engaged (locked) or there will be difficulty in getting the axle back in.
I've done these axle reseal w/ new bearings a few times, but never touched anything w/ the Birfields. Nice to see one apart. And just like been said many times already, This Is The Best Toyota Solid Axle How To around!!!! Excellent content!
As so many have said great job. I've been watching these 80s repair videos for a friend that is getting donated a 93 with lockers. Didn't know much about the Land Cruiser before this but I want one now. So much more logical repairs vs my Range Rover. I'd love to resurrect one in need.
Hi Folks, I’ve done a couple of these 80series solid axles and when it comes to wheel bearing preload the torque spec needs to be a definite value. I set up at 43ft/lb spin the rotor back and forth then loosen it off and tighten to 4ft/lb, fit the locking tab then locking nut tightens to 47ft/lb. The preload setting should be the knuckle preload(shims) to read 7-15lb for std tyres and 9-16 for >33 inch tyres. I say a definite bearing setting because there must be a std for all torque settings of every component on a production line. Some folks say tighten to 40 then back off then hand tighten then turn an extra 1/8 of a turn and you’re done. This method cannot be correct. I suggest that specific values are checked and applied. IMO, this video is one of the better productions going around, clear narration, camera angles and straightforward sequences. Good job!!
I just rebuilt my LX450 triple locked front axle and I installed Marlin Crawler axle seals. They are well engineered and are a serious upgrade to the original factory seals. I also put spindle bearings in the place of the stock spindle bushings. Hopefully, she'll be good for another 500,000 miles. Being a Vietnam Era Veteran, I doubt I will see her cross the million mile mark but I see no reason why she cannot make it and more.
You should train Toyota Technicians. I look at numerous how to videos as I own a 94 FZJ80. This is the absolute best diy video on this procedure I’ve ever seen. A cave man could do this after watching. GREAT JOB!
@@6thGearGarage Thank you and great advice. Last question, do I need to drain the differential fluid before doing this job? Thanks again for the great video.
To make life even easier, when removing the old bearing cones run a hot bead of weld around at least 1/4 of the bearing surface. When it cools it will contract and the cone will fall out
Dude this must’ve taken you forever to set up the camera as well as you did for every shot and the editing and narration. Bravo my friend I know everyone else is saying it but this is truly the best automotive tutorial I’ve ever watched
Great video. I've noticed some clicking on the right front of my 94 80 series. Guessing this job is in my near future. I'll probably be referring back to this video a few time during the job. Thank You. JC.
Great video, thanks! However I would highly recommend investing in a pressure washer (hot pressure washers are really good) to make cleaning up that axle housing/knuckle way easier.
more fzj80 maintenance videos in the future please, you're very detailed and noob friendly, sorry for making so many comments also btw haha, but your vid is the best knuckle rebuild vid I've seen out there thanks man
A tip on driving in your hub bearings: Take a grinder and cut a all the way through the race on one of your old hub bearings, then use it as a drift for your new ones. This way you wont use that brass drift and risk getting brass shavings in your hub. There are undoubtable shavings in your hub that you missed...
Brass shavings are soft and probably won't cause any damage but I always use an old race. sometimes the old race gets caught in with the new one and it is interesting trying to get it back out.
Oh this is good. I've done uncountable bearing jobs and without the split in old race you can only use it so far before that race gets pressed in too. This tip is excellent and simple but just something I was never taught or thought of before. Thanks, really!
I had to take off the upper bearing cap to remove the knuckle. But if you're just replacing the birf and not replacing the seals, then you can leave it in place.
Have a FJ60 and the left one has been rebuilt 3 times. The right one never, Rubber seals and bearings at the same time as the left one, but because the left one failed. Didn't do it myself, but maybe should have. Odd not having a manual front twist Locker?
I prefer the manual locking hubs w/ part time 4wd, but Toyota never offered them on the US 80's because more Americans took their 80''s to the mall than the mountains.
Oh man, I remember (not fondly) rebuilding my birfs. Pretty sure the total parts from Mr. T were well over $900. It was a weekend-long project with the help of a friend for part of it. I think there's still grease stains in my garage from the ordeal. Spent a lot of time doing each step meticulously and to the letter. A couple weeks later, I checked the fluid condition on both birfs. The driver side fluid started to mix. At that point, I was demoralized and out of energy to re-fix it. So I sold it to a young man for a tidy (although not amazing) profit. Darn shame.
That's a shame, but the oil usually enters the knuckle one of 2 ways... 1. clogged diff breather - gear oil expands when warm and axle can't vent so oil pushes past the oil seal. 2. the axles were grooved at the oil seal and the oil seal needed to be driven in further, or I've seen Speedi-Sleeves placed on the axle where the oil seal sets.
Adjusting nut / locking nut came loose after 7 months. Thankfully found a solution though. Don't reuse your old locking nuts / adjusting nut and lock washer folks.
great video, thanks, replaced leaking diif seal about 2 years back, easy with this video ! stupid question, failed an inspection on too much play on front right hub, (once car lifted there is play and very slight noise when rotating axel in the 6 and 12 o clock position, which bearing/s or part needs replacing as i'm too cheap to go mechanic. Is there a tightening solution. any help thanks from new zealand
Sounds like the wheel bearing is getting some play. You could try to tighten the nut a little to take out the slack & pass inspection, but plan on replacing that bearing soon.
@@6thGearGarage Thank you for the info. My LC is 94 FZJ80 with 111K miles, is it worth to replace the axle and knuckle bearings? Heard the original ones will last longer than most 3rd party parts. Do you see the genuine ones have better quality?
I’ve read that you can swap sides and get some extra life out of them, but for all the labor involved I would rather replace them and know it will last a long time.
Just tap it in….give it a little tap tap tappie….go right in your home….AAARRRRGGGGHHHH!!!!!!…COME ON !!!!!!!ARE YOU TOO GOOD FOR YOUR HOME!!!!!-this plays in my head when I’m driving seals and races.
Thank you so much for this detailed step by step guide through this process. I’m about to do this for the first time too. One question I didn’t see an answer for was how you added moly grease into the knuckle to fill it up 3/4 of the way. How can you tell when you are 3/4 full?
I just packed it in by hand until it looked about 3/4 full. There is a plug you can unscrew (3/8" square) to add more grease after the knuckle is re-assembled. It's located on the front of the knuckle, near the top. You can use a zip tie as a dip stick to check the level trough that hole if needed.
I really appreciate the tutorial. Great video! Can you explain why you couldn't just use the hi temp red bearing grease on the knuckle bearings? I am just curious, as I am about to tackle this job in a couple days. Thanks!
Great question, I actually googled before I did the job because I was also curious. The hi temp red grease has properties that make it best for bearings that move constantly at high speed, creating heat. The moly grease is heavier and is formulated for bearings that aren't constantly rotating, such as steering parts.
Great tutorial !. When removing the bearing races - can you use a screw driver since the races will be replaced anyway?. Also. The stacked tires to separate the birfs from axles really works. I used an abs pipe inside the stacked wheels to prevent the axle from hitting the rims. And used a Honda brake rotor onto since the birf would pass through the landcruiser rims.
Thanks! I don't know if a screwdriver would work... might get banged up. I have used a long punch when I didn't have a brass drift. But I was very careful not to gouge up the inside of the hub. I think a screwdriver might slip easier.
It could be anywhere in that range depending on how fast you work, the amount of rusty bolts, grime, stubborn ball joints. Also if there is any pitting on the end of the axle housing, you'll need time to fill those with JB weld. They were fine on my FZJ80, but on my 1985 they were pretty rough so I had to fill them in: th-cam.com/video/1AjhM4aF_M8/w-d-xo.html
Hey great video I just have 1 question I got both knuckles rebuilt whith new axles and cvs and it has just started to leak oil behind the knuckle and it's only been 3000kms would I have to do an entire rebuild of the knuckle or just replace the axle seal
@@6thGearGarage My Vehicle is JDM and I don't have the service manual. I am about to embark on this rebuild. I will rewatch your video to get the specs
Is there a trick to get a stuck axle out if the birf pops off the inner? I’m checking my front axles before snow season and while removing the passenger axle the birfield popped off leaving the axle inside. I’ve tried throwing vice clamps over a paper towel to not damage the threads and can get the axle to wiggle but not come out, ideas?
I haven't heard of this happening. Can you put something long in through the other side, like a rod or broom stick and reach the other end of the axle to try to tap it out from behind? (I don't even know if it is possible.)
You can use a punch, but must be extremely careful not to damage any parts. I used a punch to replace the wheel bearing races once because I was not at home, but if doing the full knuckle job, I would order the drift set (link in description)
Hola excelente video. Tengo que hacer ese trabajo a mi camioneta y siguiéndote creo que podría hacerlo solo. Gracias y saludos desde Caracas Venezuela.
![[#2024MAMA] ROSÉ (로제), Bruno Mars - APT. | Mnet 241122 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dgGqD28J6aQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Excellent description of this task. Your commentry is precise the speed of moving along very good. Anyone following this will do a perfect job. This is perfect for the home grease monkies. Cheers NZ
Much appreciated, thanks!
Honestly one of the best tutorials I have ever watched. Answered every question I had about doing this upcoming job!!! Keep up the great work!!
Awesome, thank you!
@@6thGearGarage Where did you order the Birfield Joints from please?
@@frankcanha I got all the part from Cruiser Outfitters
@@6thGearGarage le
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Others have already said it - so here's a repeat - THIS IS THE BEST TUTORIAL I'VE SEEN ON TH-cam!
thx!
Really enjoyed your video. Great camera work and friendly narration. You really give us DIYers the confidence to tackle the job.
Thx mate - I think this is one of the best and most detailed (sequence and torque values) videos on the net covering this job! I didn't know that trick with the stacked rims - I've been using a plastic tube so far but that doesn't work so well...I use blue seal for the hub and cone washers, makes it more waterproof.
This is a great tutorial, well done and thank you for that! Two things I learned while doing the knuckles on my 80: replace the brass bushing shown at 30:54. That bushing wears out and can cause and awful occasional grinding noise while driving, took me a while to figure out what caused that noise. Also, make sure your diff gasket isn't leaking because in order to replace it, you have to pull the birfs out again.
Thanks for a good, clear, step by step instruction video! Getting my 80 ready for a two month Kimberley trip, and this was the job I was least looking forward to. Tips and tricks based on experience, like you’ve given in this video made the job easier. I’ve watched a couple of good videos on this, but yours is among the best, and matches my 92 FJ80R, where the others are aimed at later models with significant differences. Five stars my friend.
Excellent and entertaining tutorial. I have the new model with ABS, so the mounting screw for the magnet is the perfect size to thread into the end of the axle and pull!
A very satisfying maintenance project.
Saved me $900 with this, super easy to follow and majorly helpful. Thanks brotha
Great to hear!
great video. lots of specific tips that come with experience. most knuckle rebuild videos are helpful but seem aimed at experienced mechanics. this felt like a video put together for us noobs who are leary of this job but want to take care of our Land Cruisers. when it's time I'm sure I'll be coming back to this video. thanks again.
Excellent video!! You and the guy from Australia have the 2 best tutorial videos out there. Adding to my library to use when I finally do this job. Edit: for others that are watching (2-3x 😁) if you have differential lockers, from reading and research, the lockers need to be engaged (locked) or there will be difficulty in getting the axle back in.
Thanks! Who's the guy from Australia? I'll have to check out his channel.
@@6thGearGarage 2nd gear low, highly recommended.
I've done these axle reseal w/ new bearings a few times, but never touched anything w/ the Birfields. Nice to see one apart. And just like been said many times already, This Is The Best Toyota Solid Axle How To around!!!! Excellent content!
Thank you!
As so many have said great job. I've been watching these 80s repair videos for a friend that is getting donated a 93 with lockers. Didn't know much about the Land Cruiser before this but I want one now. So much more logical repairs vs my Range Rover. I'd love to resurrect one in need.
Great video you did a wonderful job it helped me because it had been a long time since i fooled with one
Glad it helped!!
Dude. This is massively helpful as I’m about to embark on knuckle rebuild on hj61. Great instructional video. Thank you!
Great tutorial, very clear and measured. I feel much more confident about doing this now
It's not too bad, just don't rush and be ready for a mess.
Hi Folks,
I’ve done a couple of these 80series solid axles and when it comes to wheel bearing preload the torque spec needs to be a definite value.
I set up at 43ft/lb spin the rotor back and forth then loosen it off and tighten to 4ft/lb, fit the locking tab then locking nut tightens to 47ft/lb.
The preload setting should be the knuckle preload(shims) to read 7-15lb for std tyres and 9-16 for >33 inch tyres.
I say a definite bearing setting because there must be a std for all torque settings of every component on a production line.
Some folks say tighten to 40 then back off then hand tighten then turn an extra 1/8 of a turn and you’re done. This method cannot be correct. I suggest that specific values are checked and applied.
IMO, this video is one of the better productions going around, clear narration, camera angles and straightforward sequences.
Good job!!
These will be no better explanation than this. All the details are there. What a great video! Thank you so much for your time 🔥💪🏻😍
I just rebuilt my LX450 triple locked front axle and I installed Marlin Crawler axle seals. They are well engineered and are a serious upgrade to the original factory seals. I also put spindle bearings in the place of the stock spindle bushings. Hopefully, she'll be good for another 500,000 miles. Being a Vietnam Era Veteran, I doubt I will see her cross the million mile mark but I see no reason why she cannot make it and more.
These Land Cruisers will outlast both of us. There's nothing nowadays that is built to last like the 80 Series.
Thanks for your education, the camera is on point and you move step by step and really admire you am a mechanic driver though.thanks ones again
Thankyou for a great video. Just done this on my 80 watching the video step by step👍
AND .... I freakin LOVE all the tip and tricks.... Shade Tree Mechs are a dying breed my cruiser friend!
Very best tutorial. Reminds me of my automotive skills I've learned. Very best explaination ever.
Very in depth and well explained. I'll definitely be referring back to this one when it comes time to do the job.
You should train Toyota Technicians. I look at numerous how to videos as I own a 94 FZJ80. This is the absolute best diy video on this procedure I’ve ever seen. A cave man could do this after watching. GREAT JOB!
Thanks 👍 I'm glad to see this video has helped so many!
Excellent tutorial, very good camera work and narration!
Thank you so much for the video. I need to replace the axel shafts on my 80. I think that job will be easier since I don't need to change the seals.
Yes it will be much easier/faster, but it's also the ideal time to replace the seals if they're only slightly leaking.
@@6thGearGarage Thank you and great advice. Last question, do I need to drain the differential fluid before doing this job?
Thanks again for the great video.
Excellent job on the video ... gotta be one of the best auto how-to vids i've seen! thanks so much
To make life even easier, when removing the old bearing cones run a hot bead of weld around at least 1/4 of the bearing surface. When it cools it will contract and the cone will fall out
Good idea!
was having trouble pulling my axle until I watched your video, i was forgetting the flat spot when pulling it. thanks for the great video.
Dude this must’ve taken you forever to set up the camera as well as you did for every shot and the editing and narration. Bravo my friend I know everyone else is saying it but this is truly the best automotive tutorial I’ve ever watched
Thanks! It took 2x as long to do the job while filming, but I'm glad to see the video helping so many people!
Great video. I've noticed some clicking on the right front of my 94 80 series. Guessing this job is in my near future. I'll probably be referring back to this video a few time during the job. Thank You. JC.
Great job on the rebuild dude
This is the best detail video I have seen on TH-cam so far. Great job 👏
Bro…. You’re a lifesaver.
Great video, thanks! However I would highly recommend investing in a pressure washer (hot pressure washers are really good) to make cleaning up that axle housing/knuckle way easier.
I recently did a knuckle rebuild on my 85 and used a pressure washer. It saves so much time (and chemicals!)
Best video out there for this job that I'm about to tackle. Thanks for making it
Excellent video, answered all my questions. One of the best that I have seen...
You are the best bloke in existence that was a bloody grouse video cheers cobba
The shims are to ajust pre-load.
For oversized tyres ajust preload to 12 to 15 lb.
Great Video
Excellent editing. Going to be doing this when i add my lockers
Great job, hope you changing the worn and rusty rotors soon
more fzj80 maintenance videos in the future please, you're very detailed and noob friendly, sorry for making so many comments also btw haha, but your vid is the best knuckle rebuild vid I've seen out there thanks man
Thanks for that, glad to see it helped someone else!
A tip on driving in your hub bearings: Take a grinder and cut a all the way through the race on one of your old hub bearings, then use it as a drift for your new ones. This way you wont use that brass drift and risk getting brass shavings in your hub. There are undoubtable shavings in your hub that you missed...
excellent tip, thanks!
Brass shavings are soft and probably won't cause any damage but I always use an old race. sometimes the old race gets caught in with the new one and it is interesting trying to get it back out.
Oh this is good. I've done uncountable bearing jobs and without the split in old race you can only use it so far before that race gets pressed in too. This tip is excellent and simple but just something I was never taught or thought of before. Thanks, really!
Interesting video, I do my own maintenance on my 1985 4runner with relative ease..
Holy smokes you did an amazing job explaining this.
Thanks for the video, it's really helping me to understand
thank you for taking the time to put this together!
Glad it was helpful!
Exerlent explanation and display step by step.👊👊
Great video, the detail was excellent,
👍 👍
Good JOB ! EXCELLENT VIDEO !
Thanks for taking the time to put this together for the world. One question though, it was apart, why not replace the rotors?
They still have plenty of life left. When it comes time to do brakes, I'll have a good excuse to produce a video for that :)
THANKS FOR YOUR TIME...
Thanks for watching, hope it helped!
Best tutorial so far
Excellent job!!
Awesome info & great instructions. 👍👏⚾️
Glad it was helpful!
Did you need to take off the upper bearing cap? If you don’t you don’t have to mess with the shims or preload.
I had to take off the upper bearing cap to remove the knuckle. But if you're just replacing the birf and not replacing the seals, then you can leave it in place.
One of the best demonstrations thanks
Thanks for sharing your knowledge well appreciated keep up the good work cheers my man
Have a FJ60 and the left one has been rebuilt 3 times. The right one never, Rubber seals and bearings at the same time as the left one, but because the left one failed. Didn't do it myself, but maybe should have. Odd not having a manual front twist Locker?
I prefer the manual locking hubs w/ part time 4wd, but Toyota never offered them on the US 80's because more Americans took their 80''s to the mall than the mountains.
Oh man, I remember (not fondly) rebuilding my birfs. Pretty sure the total parts from Mr. T were well over $900. It was a weekend-long project with the help of a friend for part of it. I think there's still grease stains in my garage from the ordeal. Spent a lot of time doing each step meticulously and to the letter. A couple weeks later, I checked the fluid condition on both birfs. The driver side fluid started to mix. At that point, I was demoralized and out of energy to re-fix it. So I sold it to a young man for a tidy (although not amazing) profit. Darn shame.
That's a shame, but the oil usually enters the knuckle one of 2 ways... 1. clogged diff breather - gear oil expands when warm and axle can't vent so oil pushes past the oil seal. 2. the axles were grooved at the oil seal and the oil seal needed to be driven in further, or I've seen Speedi-Sleeves placed on the axle where the oil seal sets.
very thorough. thank u sir . keep safe and pls more vids on lc80 tnxc
I need to do this soon as well!
Adjusting nut / locking nut came loose after 7 months. Thankfully found a solution though. Don't reuse your old locking nuts / adjusting nut and lock washer folks.
Much appreciated. Thank you.
This is a great tutorial
great video, thanks, replaced leaking diif seal about 2 years back, easy with this video !
stupid question, failed an inspection on too much play on front right hub, (once car lifted there is play and very slight noise when rotating axel in the 6 and 12 o clock position, which bearing/s or part needs replacing as i'm too cheap to go mechanic. Is there a tightening solution. any help thanks from new zealand
Sounds like the wheel bearing is getting some play. You could try to tighten the nut a little to take out the slack & pass inspection, but plan on replacing that bearing soon.
Pvc pipe does wrork greak to seperate the axel from the brifeild!
Good to know I can keep just a pipe in the garage instead of a stack of old
Wheels!
Great video for first timer, would you mind to share where to get the replacement kit?
I got the parts from www.cruiseroutfitters.com/ The kit numbers are In the description. Thanks for watching!
@@6thGearGarage Thank you for the info. My LC is 94 FZJ80 with 111K miles, is it worth to replace the axle and knuckle bearings? Heard the original ones will last longer than most 3rd party parts. Do you see the genuine ones have better quality?
Perfecto! Need to do this soon on my 80 . Subscribed 👊
Final check before ordering the parts: if it clicks, birfields must be replaced for sure?
I’ve read that you can swap sides and get some extra life out of them, but for all the labor involved I would rather replace them and know it will last a long time.
Just tap it in….give it a little tap tap tappie….go right in your home….AAARRRRGGGGHHHH!!!!!!…COME ON !!!!!!!ARE YOU TOO GOOD FOR YOUR HOME!!!!!-this plays in my head when I’m driving seals and races.
😂😂😂
Thank you so much for this detailed step by step guide through this process. I’m about to do this for the first time too. One question I didn’t see an answer for was how you added moly grease into the knuckle to fill it up 3/4 of the way. How can you tell when you are 3/4 full?
I just packed it in by hand until it looked about 3/4 full. There is a plug you can unscrew (3/8" square) to add more grease after the knuckle is re-assembled. It's located on the front of the knuckle, near the top. You can use a zip tie as a dip stick to check the level trough that hole if needed.
@@6thGearGarage thanks again. I’m excited to get started!
I really appreciate the tutorial. Great video! Can you explain why you couldn't just use the hi temp red bearing grease on the knuckle bearings? I am just curious, as I am about to tackle this job in a couple days. Thanks!
Great question, I actually googled before I did the job because I was also curious. The hi temp red grease has properties that make it best for bearings that move constantly at high speed, creating heat. The moly grease is heavier and is formulated for bearings that aren't constantly rotating, such as steering parts.
Great tutorial !.
When removing the bearing races - can you use a screw driver since the races will be replaced anyway?.
Also. The stacked tires to separate the birfs from axles really works. I used an abs pipe inside the stacked wheels to prevent the axle from hitting the rims. And used a Honda brake rotor onto since the birf would pass through the landcruiser rims.
Thanks! I don't know if a screwdriver would work... might get banged up. I have used a long punch when I didn't have a brass drift. But I was very careful not to gouge up the inside of the hub. I think a screwdriver might slip easier.
GREAT review! Estimate on time to do both sides? 4-6-8 hours?
It could be anywhere in that range depending on how fast you work, the amount of rusty bolts, grime, stubborn ball joints. Also if there is any pitting on the end of the axle housing, you'll need time to fill those with JB weld. They were fine on my FZJ80, but on my 1985 they were pretty rough so I had to fill them in: th-cam.com/video/1AjhM4aF_M8/w-d-xo.html
Talk about detail! Thank you!
You're welcome!
Hey great video I just have 1 question I got both knuckles rebuilt whith new axles and cvs and it has just started to leak oil behind the knuckle and it's only been 3000kms would I have to do an entire rebuild of the knuckle or just replace the axle seal
You could just replace the seal and put it all back together. Check for a clogged diff breather.
Great Video! Thank you for making it. Do you happen to have a cut sheet for all the torque specs that you mention throughout your video?
I used the factory service manual and the instructions that came with the kit from Cruiser Outfitters for all of the tq specs.
@@6thGearGarage My Vehicle is JDM and I don't have the service manual. I am about to embark on this rebuild. I will rewatch your video to get the specs
@@BKM79915 mine is also JDM but the suspension/steering is the same and shares specs with USDM 80 of the same year.
Dude you killed it man. What a video!!!
can you put in the description where you purchased the parts, please?
Is there a trick to get a stuck axle out if the birf pops off the inner? I’m checking my front axles before snow season and while removing the passenger axle the birfield popped off leaving the axle inside. I’ve tried throwing vice clamps over a paper towel to not damage the threads and can get the axle to wiggle but not come out, ideas?
I haven't heard of this happening. Can you put something long in through the other side, like a rod or broom stick and reach the other end of the axle to try to tap it out from behind? (I don't even know if it is possible.)
Great video thanks. What can I use instead of a brass drift ? Can’t get my hands on a brass drift or a hammer.
You can use a punch, but must be extremely careful not to damage any parts. I used a punch to replace the wheel bearing races once because I was not at home, but if doing the full knuckle job, I would order the drift set (link in description)
@@6thGearGarage thanks for the tip. Appreciate it
Can I use the molygrease to pack the knuckle bearings? Dont you think having two types of grease in the same enclosed area causes issues?
I only did it this way because the service manual said to do so. I figure if Toyota said to do it a certain way, there may have been a good reason.
Hola excelente video. Tengo que hacer ese trabajo a mi camioneta y siguiéndote creo que podría hacerlo solo. Gracias y saludos desde Caracas Venezuela.
Great video, thanks. Any idea what the wheel bearing pre load figures are for a factory part time front end?
Thanks! Unfortunately the service manual I have is US spec, so they only have the specs for full time.
Superb video. 👍🏼
What size socket is that large hub nut?
And, thx again. Mine need rebuild too so this is my go-to instruction.
it's 54mm
Brilliant video. Thank you!!!
outstanding!!
Thank you!
Where did you get all your parts
I ordered them from cruiser outfitters, part #'s in the description.
Great!. Good job!. Well done!. Congrats!!..
Very well done...Thanks a lot.
Question. If I am only replacing the inner axel shaft and the birf, do I need to remove the tie rods?
No you do not need to remove the tie rod or the knuckle.
Great video! Really helpful.
Thank you!
This was amazing
thanks a lot
Muy buen video, felicitaciones!! Tienes un nuevo seguidor!
another way to get those cone washers out is just tap the side of the hub at each stud with a hammer and they will shoot right out
very helpful video
Glad to hear that!