Thank you so much Joel. This was my problem. and your techniques corrected my idle surge, problem, you are truly a Master at your craft. A True Master Mechanic
I just tighten up the Fast Idle Control Valve thing he shows at 9:43. And it did help the car a lot... It still has a little bit of an up and down RPM sometimes and usually will stop by itself after a few times. And sometimes it doesn't to it at all. So much improved and idle has slowed down a lot, which is good... when put my finger in to close the top hold in the throttle body, he shows at 10:07 my car completely dies. is that supposed to happen? When I put my finger in the lower one now, nothing changes. D
excellent video. i'd just advise that the labeling at timepoint 11:49 is incorrect. the fast idle port is the lower one inside the throttle body and the upper port is the idle air control valve. i couldn't tell which port you actually plugged but i'm almost certain it was the bottom one if you ended up solving the problem by replacing the fast idle valve. if it had ended up being the upper port, you would have needed to replace the iac valve. just a clarification and excellent diagnostic video none the less.
Question. I today I tightened the round thing, I think you are calling the Fast Idle valve, and put a new O Ring in to make sure it's sealed good. So the idle came way down and the up and down is way down as well and some times it doesn't do it at all... it never does it when I first start it or warm it up... only after I have driven a bit and warmed it up, then when I come to a stop the idle surges up and down but just a little bit now and usually it settles and stops surging. When I put my lights on it always stops. Or if I have my breaks on and maybe hazard lights then it stops too... *** So when I put my finger in lower port, it's fine! But when I put my finger in upper port it completely died like I suffocated it. Is this normal? Thanks!! P.s. car runs really good now. I have been working on it for while now replacing parts, cleaning, replacing seals, O rings etc. etc... just a little up and down surge once in a while now... Do you think I should put Gasket seal on top of the O ring I replaced. I am seeing where he holds the plate down at: 11:53
Idle surging when Engine Warm is usually caused by TOO MUCH " Air " or Weak AICV or dirty Throttle Body or Dirty FITV or Vacuum Leaks. Here are the steps that you should've taken when you have surging issues! First, you must see Throttle Body or Clean Throttle Body and check for Air Leakages. Second, you need to check your Vacuum / Air Leakages. Third, Clean or Replace your AICV.... Fourth, last but NOT least, " Adjust " your FITV... NOTE: I DO NOT recommend adjusting FITV... I would've CLEAN it first, but NOT Adjusting it! Adjusting it would be the LAST thing on the List, since the function of FITV is just adding " extra " Air to your Throttle Body / Mixture! *NOTE:* If you have " Mis-fired " or Bubbles in your Radiator or White Smokes on Tail Pipe, than more likely you have a Head Gasket Leakage problems.
@@JoelAutomotiveInaction - My comment wasn't directly toward's you. I stated in a General Thread as a tip just in case someone find your Video and step needs taken to diagnose it.
What is the name of that last valve you replaced and fixed the problem? cause I have a 1992 civic with the same problem, and auto parts are getting rich selling parts and still cant fix my poor car.
took the 3 screws off the starting air valve lost the spring ? what does the springs purpose ? seen a videos where they cover the starting air valve made the idle more erratic
the most expensive part some time is the diagnostic, because with evap smoke machine that leak is easy to find . without replacing any components prior finding the root of the cause
mine does everything the same except the idle holds at 1500rpms and when I plug the same port it stops but my fitv is located on the bottom of my throttle body, would it still be the same port?
so change everything new what was the problem anybody know. i changed my temp sender its the 3/4 inch sender under the thermostat above transmission celinoids. fixed idle.
The first thing I can say is that the coolant is the wrong coolant the coolant this car takes is blue put the correct coolant it’s type 2 coolant the car needs
Thank you so much Joel. This was my problem. and your techniques corrected my idle surge, problem, you are truly a Master at your craft. A True Master Mechanic
Glad it was helpful, it's always satisfying to find the root cause and solve the problem
El mecánico que mejor explica y resuelve este problema y he visto muchos y soy propietario de honda. Eres un máquina
Great video, much appreciate your valuable information. No other videos cover in depth like you did!
Really appreciate the video. Been trying to figure this issue out for awhile now.
Thanks~
Good job. Really. 👍
thanks 🤝🤝
I just tighten up the Fast Idle Control Valve thing he shows at 9:43. And it did help the car a lot...
It still has a little bit of an up and down RPM sometimes and usually will stop by itself after a few times. And sometimes it doesn't to it at all. So much improved and idle has slowed down a lot, which is good... when put my finger in to close the top hold in the throttle body, he shows at 10:07 my car completely dies. is that supposed to happen? When I put my finger in the lower one now, nothing changes. D
excellent video. i'd just advise that the labeling at timepoint 11:49 is incorrect. the fast idle port is the lower one inside the throttle body and the upper port is the idle air control valve. i couldn't tell which port you actually plugged but i'm almost certain it was the bottom one if you ended up solving the problem by replacing the fast idle valve. if it had ended up being the upper port, you would have needed to replace the iac valve. just a clarification and excellent diagnostic video none the less.
Question. I today I tightened the round thing, I think you are calling the Fast Idle valve, and put a new O Ring in to make sure it's sealed good. So the idle came way down and the up and down is way down as well and some times it doesn't do it at all... it never does it when I first start it or warm it up... only after I have driven a bit and warmed it up, then when I come to a stop the idle surges up and down but just a little bit now and usually it settles and stops surging. When I put my lights on it always stops. Or if I have my breaks on and maybe hazard lights then it stops too... *** So when I put my finger in lower port, it's fine! But when I put my finger in upper port it completely died like I suffocated it. Is this normal? Thanks!! P.s. car runs really good now. I have been working on it for while now replacing parts, cleaning, replacing seals, O rings etc. etc... just a little up and down surge once in a while now... Do you think I should put Gasket seal on top of the O ring I replaced. I am seeing where he holds the plate down at: 11:53
Really appreciate your comment.
IAC valve, ajustala, esta abierta, ves las dos ranuras dale vuelta hacia la derecha hasta que cierre porque ya esta a la temperatura adecuada.
Idle surging when Engine Warm is usually caused by TOO MUCH " Air " or Weak AICV or dirty Throttle Body or Dirty FITV or Vacuum Leaks. Here are the steps that you should've taken when you have surging issues! First, you must see Throttle Body or Clean Throttle Body and check for Air Leakages. Second, you need to check your Vacuum / Air Leakages. Third, Clean or Replace your AICV.... Fourth, last but NOT least, " Adjust " your FITV... NOTE: I DO NOT recommend adjusting FITV... I would've CLEAN it first, but NOT Adjusting it! Adjusting it would be the LAST thing on the List, since the function of FITV is just adding " extra " Air to your Throttle Body / Mixture!
*NOTE:* If you have " Mis-fired " or Bubbles in your Radiator or White Smokes on Tail Pipe, than more likely you have a Head Gasket Leakage problems.
I was showing here first step test the suspected component and prove it than replace it that is the channel about , understand how the system works ,
@@JoelAutomotiveInaction - My comment wasn't directly toward's you. I stated in a General Thread as a tip just in case someone find your Video and step needs taken to diagnose it.
I got bubbles
Collapsing PCV hose will do it too
@@321CatboxWA - *COPY: Second, you need to check your Vacuum / Air Leakages.*
1942 Honda engine Saharan desert👀👃👀 Waooo!!!
What is the name of that last valve you replaced and fixed the problem? cause I have a 1992 civic with the same problem, and auto parts are getting rich selling parts and still cant fix my poor car.
Joel porque el Honda accord ex 2.4 2011 tienbla en las luces oh en baja, tiene filtro de aire nuevo espares de todo pero no de faller en baja.?
Did you have the IAC electrical connector disconnected while you plugged the FITV/AICV port at 10/11 o’clock?
no it was all conected
Joel Automotive In action
Ok, thank you! Your video is very helpful in diagnosing a hunting/surging idle.
took the 3 screws off the starting air valve lost the spring ? what does the springs purpose ? seen a videos where they cover the starting air valve made the idle more erratic
got to do it right , if you do not cover it properly is the same as before or worsen air leak
Allen Davis como ajustar el delete de mersedes bens1994
Had same issue. Replaced pvc valve, nope, IACV, nope, wound up being the throttle body gasket. Cost .85 for a gasket.
the most expensive part some time is the diagnostic, because with evap smoke machine that leak is easy to find . without replacing any components prior finding the root of the cause
I have a 1990 accord and it dose the same thing from 1000 rpm to 2000, what can I do ?
Clean and adjust IAC valve
did you see what I found during the testing, the iac was good , the fast idle valve was the problem
you got a bleeder on you line near your thermostat and your fast idle valve just need too clean it
Are you talking about the one where it's a big Circle with a spring plunger where you can screw it back in tight?
Hi
mine does everything the same except the idle holds at 1500rpms and when I plug the same port it stops but my fitv is located on the bottom of my throttle body, would it still be the same port?
i may add my iacv is located on the back of my manifold
@@ae_fishery5533 what year is yours? Mine is a 94 lx and is the same as you describe, iac in the back and fiv under throttle body.
so change everything new what was the problem anybody know. i changed my temp sender its the 3/4 inch sender under the thermostat above transmission celinoids. fixed idle.
what did you chage?? what kind of testing have been done in the process of diagnostics to eliminate every possibility ?
The first thing I can say is that the coolant is the wrong coolant the coolant this car takes is blue put the correct coolant it’s type 2 coolant the car needs
that is for newer hondas long life coolant the one you mean , when this vehicle was built that coolant did no exist yet.
Wrong you should not own that car you don’t know what the hell you are talking about
@@juliuscaesar756ok , you know and all data does not on service manual is wrong I got it now
thank you for that info I was having a problem with the same type and I blocked it off car runs like a champ , again thank you !!!!
@@JM-nl4bd your welcome
You keep revving that engine like that from a cold start, fluctuating idle will be the least of your problems.