I have tried the MrMuscle method through the exhaust propeller side and it working I’d say for about 3-4 months then started to over boost again. I have been thinking about removing the turbo and giving it an inspection and thorough clean at some point soon.
MrZimma frame as I said in the video the mr muscle is a really good quick fix but only for a short period. The method I use is as good as a refurbished unit as long as there is no damage to anything prior to the clean it will be as good as new
@@vwfixeruk8816 Ye i know lol i'm agreeing with you, i'm just letting people know how long it worked for me brother. Where did you get your new vanes/internals from?
MrZimma frame the ones I used in the video was from another unit I had stripped before there is a number of companies on eBay London turbos are good mate
The beauty of the electronic actuators is they have position monitors so will detect sticking VNT vanes at an early stage when it might be fixable by Mr Muscle or a good italian tune up.
You have the under and overboost positions the wrong way round. Minimum boost is when the vanes are pointing towards the turbine.Also, damage is most likely from foreign object. It's not possible for the vanes to hit the blades unless the mechanism has been distorted in some way.
You are correct! It does not closes fully it just reduces cross section (plus angle of the exhaust gases hitting turbine wheel) of opening and increases flow and spins turbine faster with low flow from engine exhaust.
Fantastic video VWfixerUK. My BKD 2.0 Golf engine has the sticky vanes symptoms. Most garages said replace whole turbo which I can't afford. Was looking at the Mr Muscle option, but was never convinced. I found a local VW independent specialist that said they will look at everything before the turbo first, strip and clean if no damage and replace as last resort. It's still gonna cost me alot for labour, but half the price of a new turbo.
Solan Goose thank you glad you found the video helpful. I know most garages would rather replace than repair it’s just more convenient and cost effective for them but not always needed and unfortunate for the customer. Hopefully yours is repairable 👍🏻
9:11, I tried tapping it off that way and it was solid on, made small dints and thought it was time to give up, until i decided to tape the housing, were bolt holes are, much better.
Hello there mate from the US ( Florida ). I have a vw alh tdi jetta with a over boost issue. If I try the quick fix oven cleaner, can I shoot it in the intake past the max sensor? Or does it have to be the exhaust side like you showed? Thanks for the video!
S C hi mate yes it has to be the exhaust side in order to penetrate the vnt ring mate. The easiest way to access it is to remove the egr pipe from the turbo and feed a pipe from there towards the turbine. Hopefully this helps 👍🏻
Hello Mr VW fixer. I have a T5 2.5 5 cylinder transporter. It was going into limp at around 2000rpm. Scanner showed under boost. Removed turbo, found manifold broken where turbo attached. Replaced manifold, fitted rebuilt turbo, replace N75 vacuum valve. Still limp mode but different now, showing over boost. Replaced MAP sensor and vacuum pipe from N75 to waste gate controller. Still limp mode. But has lots of power until I approach a hill and its into limp mode. Around town runs fine. I live in a very hilly area, making using my bus an absolute pain. My question is so I get the tubo replaced again or is there an adjustment that can be done. Can I fit an external dump valve as used on petrol tubo performance motors. I'd like your opinion. Cheers. Rob
Great information thank you so much for sharing. I'm going to service my turbo a Garrett GT2052V on a 3.0liter diesel engine. Can you recommend another eBay or online store that sells parts? The one you recommend no longer exists.
Oscar Barberena hi thanks for the positive comment. I often use London turbos on eBay they are very good a little pricey but I’ve never had any problems so far. Hope this helped and thanks for watching
Great video! I have an issue where after I tighten the 3 torx screws, the vanes don't want to move! When disassembled the turbo, I didn't have that metal piece that fell out in your video. Although the odd thing is, it all looks like it lines up, and having that extra metal piece would raise it too high. I wonder if i'm missing something. I've got the 3 spacers, 3 screwed, and 3 top spacers. Any ideas from your experience?
Gary xperia hi this could be that the vanes are sticking but could also be a faulty boost pressure sensor mate. The first thing I would do is remove and clean the sensor they mostly malfunction due to carbon buildup clear any ecm codes and see from there. If the problem is still occurring then clean the turbo if this doesn’t solve your problem then replace the sensor with a new one. I always try to clean before repairing it maybe time consuming but it’s more cost affective and it will never really hurt to clean the turbo 👍🏻 hope this helps mate thanks for the positive feed back 😉
@@vwfixeruk8816 to remove the turbo on the mondeo 2.0 tdci looks to be a right pain its at the back of the engine i have watched a y/t vid and it looks awkward, to clean the turbo would you recommended trying to unbolt the exhaust side and squirt some oven cleaner in and hopefully free up any sticky vanes?
Gary xperia yeah get the wd40 smart straw a length of thin tube and push it deep into the turbo through the exhaust side make sure to keep moving the actuator to get the vanes free repeat the process several times over a few hours for best results mate
Great video. Can I ask your advice? I had a new turbo fitted on a T5 2.5 and it's running like a bag of shite. All ok on the vcds! Could it be how it's set up? And if so how do you adjust it?
Nigel Wilding hi most of the time when a new turbo is running bad it’s usually Down to the actuator not being set up correctly or lack of boost build up due to a leaking/split boost pipe I have on very rare occasions known a split boost pipe to not throw a code Depending on the actuator fitted to your turbo it will be able to adjust by releasing the 10mm lock nut and adjust a little amount either way to see if there is any improvement if a boost gauge is fitting it’s a bonus as you can visually see the increase or decrease in boost pressure. Hope this helps. Thanks for the positive feedback glad to be of assistance 👍🏻
@@vwfixeruk8816 thank you so much for your reply! The guy who fitted it hasn't a clue. I have the 2.5 T5 174 and it's renowned for the metal turbo gasket leaking oil. The van has done 72k and I swapped the original turbo for a recon as it was off. Wish I'd put the old one back on. I have spoken to a guy this weekend and he has said the same as yourself. It needs setting or adjusting. It's running rough on tick over and had a Dyno done yesterday. It's running at 179bhp after a remap for fuel economy. It's running like the map isn't there but must be as it's slightly over standard bhp. Thanks for your reply my friend. 🙏
Nigel Wilding I would say it’s down to the actuator incorrectly set up if it’s run like that on the dyno mate as I said before the slightest adjustment makes a huge difference and over adjustment will make it worse so lures you into a false sense that either way you adjust it it’s not really making a difference Glad I can help mate 👍🏻
@@vwfixeruk8816 I may just get him to put the old one back on lol. There isn't anything wrong with the old turbo and it's genuine. What you think? I do really appreciate your replies mate
I have a problem with the turbo, after cleaning the geo var, in 10miles km i have so much flushing sound in the vane and i have the problem of the limp mode again, i suppose it could be the shaft, with this method do you have no problems with actuator and the power is again 100%? Thx so much
Luca Santamaria if it’s started after egr clean I would be looking at the pipe work around the egr value. And as long as you mark the unit so it goes back together as it came off you should have no problems
@@vwfixeruk8816 hi thanks for your reply, i managed to remove the stubs today, thankfully, left soaking overnight in plus gas and then a combination of gas torch and freeze spray and with mole grips very slowly broke them free, massive relief
Hi vw fixer uk , problem is on my 2004 Golf 5 1.9 77kwTDI car runs well and turbo always kicks in properly except when i try to accelerate it and once it reaches 3000 rpm , the car loses power and feels like turbo is either shutdown or is working very slowly or very little and engine management light is on ??? any idea what could be the problem??? please reply many thanks.
The Hot Spot hi the problem is more than likely the actuator sticking due to carbon buildup on the vnt causing it to not open/close as explained in the video. You could try the mr muscle oven cleaner through the egr pipe on the turbo and keep manually moving the actuator to free it off hope this helps 👍🏻
Jose Peixoto thanks sorry the sound is low as it was filmed on an iPhone. Not sure on the name of the music it’s a royalty free from TH-cam I will try and find the name for you
Very informative video mate, learnt alot! Could I ask, on my 2004 VW T5 I am burning 2 LTRs of oil every 300-400 miles . I don't have any leaks at all so it must be burning. Is a faulty turbo capable of using that much oil, maybe seals or something? It does chuff for about 15 seconds on start up but no smoke when driving apart from the usual when thrashing it. It's still got plenty of power just lost for reasons why it could be using so much oil.. many thanks
Witness The Fitness hi thanks for positive message. It is possible for a faulty turbo unit to lose oil but usually it just dumps all the oil into the exhaust once they go. It could be a number of things valve stem seals,worn oil rings on pistons or even worn cam lifters letting oil past into the valve seats. Hope this helps sorry it’s a little vague but it’s a little hard to diagnose this type of fault without stripping and investigating the suggested areas.
serbanescu alin I would start with checking for boost leaks in the intercooler pipes,boost pressure sensor and the n75 valve are a common cause of boost problems too then id look at the actuator on your model it’s an electronic actuator and they do tend to fail
I have tried the MrMuscle method through the exhaust propeller side and it working I’d say for about 3-4 months then started to over boost again. I have been thinking about removing the turbo and giving it an inspection and thorough clean at some point soon.
MrZimma frame as I said in the video the mr muscle is a really good quick fix but only for a short period. The method I use is as good as a refurbished unit as long as there is no damage to anything prior to the clean it will be as good as new
@@vwfixeruk8816 Ye i know lol i'm agreeing with you, i'm just letting people know how long it worked for me brother. Where did you get your new vanes/internals from?
MrZimma frame the ones I used in the video was from another unit I had stripped before there is a number of companies on eBay London turbos are good mate
@@vwfixeruk8816 Ok nice, if i get time when it starts sticking again i'll check them out.
The beauty of the electronic actuators is they have position monitors so will detect sticking VNT vanes at an early stage when it might be fixable by Mr Muscle or a good italian tune up.
You have the under and overboost positions the wrong way round. Minimum boost is when the vanes are pointing towards the turbine.Also, damage is most likely from foreign object. It's not possible for the vanes to hit the blades unless the mechanism has been distorted in some way.
Thanks, that was my thoughts also
You are correct! It does not closes fully it just reduces cross section (plus angle of the exhaust gases hitting turbine wheel) of opening and increases flow and spins turbine faster with low flow from engine exhaust.
Fantastic video VWfixerUK. My BKD 2.0 Golf engine has the sticky vanes symptoms. Most garages said replace whole turbo which I can't afford. Was looking at the Mr Muscle option, but was never convinced. I found a local VW independent specialist that said they will look at everything before the turbo first, strip and clean if no damage and replace as last resort. It's still gonna cost me alot for labour, but half the price of a new turbo.
Solan Goose thank you glad you found the video helpful. I know most garages would rather replace than repair it’s just more convenient and cost effective for them but not always needed and unfortunate for the customer. Hopefully yours is repairable 👍🏻
Underboost can also be caused by the actuator failing, vacuum check actuator first.
9:11, I tried tapping it off that way and it was solid on, made small dints and thought it was time to give up, until i decided to tape the housing, were bolt holes are, much better.
Great video.. looking forward to the next
Thanks foelr your videos it help me a lot...
Hello there mate from the US ( Florida ). I have a vw alh tdi jetta with a over boost issue. If I try the quick fix oven cleaner, can I shoot it in the intake past the max sensor? Or does it have to be the exhaust side like you showed? Thanks for the video!
S C hi mate yes it has to be the exhaust side in order to penetrate the vnt ring mate.
The easiest way to access it is to remove the egr pipe from the turbo and feed a pipe from there towards the turbine. Hopefully this helps 👍🏻
@@vwfixeruk8816 Will do my friend. Thanks again for the video. Stay safe over there.
S C thanks for the support mate you stay safe too 👍🏻
mr muscle oven 3h and back on the road without limp mode
Where do you insert this into please?
(Assuming its without taktthe turbo off the car)
Hello Mr VW fixer. I have a T5 2.5 5 cylinder transporter. It was going into limp at around 2000rpm. Scanner showed under boost. Removed turbo, found manifold broken where turbo attached. Replaced manifold, fitted rebuilt turbo, replace N75 vacuum valve. Still limp mode but different now, showing over boost. Replaced MAP sensor and vacuum pipe from N75 to waste gate controller. Still limp mode. But has lots of power until I approach a hill and its into limp mode. Around town runs fine. I live in a very hilly area, making using my bus an absolute pain. My question is so I get the tubo replaced again or is there an adjustment that can be done. Can I fit an external dump valve as used on petrol tubo performance motors. I'd like your opinion. Cheers. Rob
Adjust the turbo properly
Great video. What torque setting is the bolts that hold the vnt
The specs are t20s are 10.5 nm and the 10mm bolts are 10nm
Great information thank you so much for sharing. I'm going to service my turbo a Garrett GT2052V on a 3.0liter diesel engine. Can you recommend another eBay or online store that sells parts? The one you recommend no longer exists.
Oscar Barberena hi thanks for the positive comment. I often use London turbos on eBay they are very good a little pricey but I’ve never had any problems so far. Hope this helped and thanks for watching
@@vwfixeruk8816 thank you
Cheers from Colombia south America
nice job. Thanks for the vid
Glad you like it 👍🏻
Thanks for the positive feedback it means a lot
Great video!
I have an issue where after I tighten the 3 torx screws, the vanes don't want to move! When disassembled the turbo, I didn't have that metal piece that fell out in your video.
Although the odd thing is, it all looks like it lines up, and having that extra metal piece would raise it too high. I wonder if i'm missing something. I've got the 3 spacers, 3 screwed, and 3 top spacers.
Any ideas from your experience?
Thank you!
Hi I have a ford mondeo 2.0 tdci which keeps coming up with engine malfunction scan tool says p003a have you any ideas great vid
Gary xperia
hi this could be that the vanes are sticking but could also be a faulty boost pressure sensor mate. The first thing I would do is remove and clean the sensor they mostly malfunction due to carbon buildup clear any ecm codes and see from there. If the problem is still occurring then clean the turbo if this doesn’t solve your problem then replace the sensor with a new one. I always try to clean before repairing it maybe time consuming but it’s more cost affective and it will never really hurt to clean the turbo 👍🏻 hope this helps mate thanks for the positive feed back 😉
@@vwfixeruk8816 to remove the turbo on the mondeo 2.0 tdci looks to be a right pain its at the back of the engine i have watched a y/t vid and it looks awkward, to clean the turbo would you recommended trying to unbolt the exhaust side and squirt some oven cleaner in and hopefully free up any sticky vanes?
Gary xperia yeah get the wd40 smart straw a length of thin tube and push it deep into the turbo through the exhaust side make sure to keep moving the actuator to get the vanes free repeat the process several times over a few hours for best results mate
Fuvking awesome vid mate. Watched all the other youtube vids on doing this, but yours is the best..
Thank you.
jayswin2 Thanks mate really appreciate the positive feedback 👍🏻
awesome looks like BKD turbo
Ive seen mr muscle used on the cars turbo while still in place? 2002 audi tt quattro
That won't have VNT turbo will it?
Great video. Can I ask your advice? I had a new turbo fitted on a T5 2.5 and it's running like a bag of shite. All ok on the vcds!
Could it be how it's set up? And if so how do you adjust it?
Nigel Wilding hi most of the time when a new turbo is running bad it’s usually Down to the actuator not being set up correctly or lack of boost build up due to a leaking/split boost pipe I have on very rare occasions known a split boost pipe to not throw a code Depending on the actuator fitted to your turbo it will be able to adjust by releasing the 10mm lock nut and adjust a little amount either way to see if there is any improvement if a boost gauge is fitting it’s a bonus as you can visually see the increase or decrease in boost pressure. Hope this helps. Thanks for the positive feedback glad to be of assistance 👍🏻
@@vwfixeruk8816 thank you so much for your reply! The guy who fitted it hasn't a clue. I have the 2.5 T5 174 and it's renowned for the metal turbo gasket leaking oil. The van has done 72k and I swapped the original turbo for a recon as it was off. Wish I'd put the old one back on. I have spoken to a guy this weekend and he has said the same as yourself. It needs setting or adjusting. It's running rough on tick over and had a Dyno done yesterday. It's running at 179bhp after a remap for fuel economy. It's running like the map isn't there but must be as it's slightly over standard bhp.
Thanks for your reply my friend. 🙏
Nigel Wilding I would say it’s down to the actuator incorrectly set up if it’s run like that on the dyno mate as I said before the slightest adjustment makes a huge difference and over adjustment will make it worse so lures you into a false sense that either way you adjust it it’s not really making a difference
Glad I can help mate 👍🏻
@@vwfixeruk8816 I may just get him to put the old one back on lol. There isn't anything wrong with the old turbo and it's genuine. What you think? I do really appreciate your replies mate
Hi where are you based could you do this for me plz ..... My turbo is off the car.. bkd 2.0 tdi
I have a problem with the turbo, after cleaning the geo var, in 10miles km i have so much flushing sound in the vane and i have the problem of the limp mode again, i suppose it could be the shaft, with this method do you have no problems with actuator and the power is again 100%? Thx so much
Luca Santamaria if it’s started after egr clean I would be looking at the pipe work around the egr value.
And as long as you mark the unit so it goes back together as it came off you should have no problems
hi ive sheared off all 3 torx on the vanes ring, any ideas ?
paul oneill maybe use a spline bit hammer it in to the sheared head the tapping may help to free the bolt also hope this helps 👍🏻
@@vwfixeruk8816 hi thanks for your reply, i managed to remove the stubs today, thankfully, left soaking overnight in plus gas and then a combination of gas torch and freeze spray and with mole grips very slowly broke them free, massive relief
Hi vw fixer uk , problem is on my 2004 Golf 5 1.9 77kwTDI car runs well and turbo always kicks in properly except when i try to accelerate it and once it reaches 3000 rpm , the car loses power and feels like turbo is either shutdown or is working very slowly or very little and engine management light is on ??? any idea what could be the problem??? please reply many thanks.
The Hot Spot hi the problem is more than likely the actuator sticking due to carbon buildup on the vnt causing it to not open/close as explained in the video. You could try the mr muscle oven cleaner through the egr pipe on the turbo and keep manually moving the actuator to free it off hope this helps 👍🏻
How to remove and replace new nozzle ring 28200 4a470 vnt turbo
Great video dude!
i cleaned my turbo, but my turbo is still doing emergency mode, so it is still overboost or underboost. But why?
does damage turbine create whistling noise at low rpm?
mybigbackyard it can but I would check for boost leaks split or damaged boost pipes are the most common cause of low rpm whistle
Great video. Thanks aa lot.
Appreciate your time ty
Very detailed video
great man, the sound is a bit low
but not the music,lol
edit: Can you tell me the name of the music?
Jose Peixoto thanks sorry the sound is low as it was filmed on an iPhone. Not sure on the name of the music it’s a royalty free from TH-cam I will try and find the name for you
Great video, helped me out a ton,
Great video! Thanks for info.
Joe yuo graduarte a electrónico actuator Tha come in the new vw Amarok???
Very informative video mate, learnt alot! Could I ask, on my 2004 VW T5 I am burning 2 LTRs of oil every 300-400 miles . I don't have any leaks at all so it must be burning. Is a faulty turbo capable of using that much oil, maybe seals or something? It does chuff for about 15 seconds on start up but no smoke when driving apart from the usual when thrashing it. It's still got plenty of power just lost for reasons why it could be using so much oil.. many thanks
Witness The Fitness hi thanks for positive message. It is possible for a faulty turbo unit to lose oil but usually it just dumps all the oil into the exhaust once they go. It could be a number of things valve stem seals,worn oil rings on pistons or even worn cam lifters letting oil past into the valve seats. Hope this helps sorry it’s a little vague but it’s a little hard to diagnose this type of fault without stripping and investigating the suggested areas.
@@vwfixeruk8816 ah that's great, thank you for taking the time to reply. Gives me some idea of where to focus on! Many thanks bud
great info!!
I couldn't even get the bolts off mine. Totally seized.
Hy mate , where are u from in uk ?
I’m from South Yorkshire mate you?
Coventry , can you please give me your phone nr ? Send it please on this e mail ( serbanescualin88@gmail.com )
serbanescu alin no sorry I do not give out personal information if you need any information I am happy to help via the comment section
I have the “ low boost “ problem on a 59 plate passat 2.0 engine and i m not sure from where to start to find the problem
serbanescu alin I would start with checking for boost leaks in the intercooler pipes,boost pressure sensor and the n75 valve are a common cause of boost problems too then id look at the actuator on your model it’s an electronic actuator and they do tend to fail
Hope isnt your daily job...i saw better movie made years ago.
Cristian Prisecaru thanks pal only bad comment yet so can’t be too bad 😂
Bot?..??
D- Gadgets what you mean bot?