All good info. I have worked with handpieces for well over 50 years in the dental industry. My best advice to beginners is to slow down. Listen to the strain on the handpiece as you go. The sound of the handpiece and control of the cutting bit will regulate the safe speed and pressure to make accurate cuts. Just my 2 cents. Thanks for your wisdom.
THANK YOU! Oh my goodness, this is so helpful. My husband let me have his old Dremel so I can try carving some smaller wood pieces. I was getting so frustrated and scared when the tool kept 'getting away' from me. I'm now waiting on a cutting glove to arrive and watching all the wood carving videos I can. :)
Excellent video. Because of you, I have started power wood carving. I ran out and purchased a few rotary tools and I am in the process of learning how to handle the tool. At the moment I am practicing cutting, feathering, depth, angles, types of wood and their cutting characteristics. This video is so important to us beginners. It would be nice if you did a whole video series about beginning wood carving. Thank you so much. 💕❤️💕❤️💕
That was a good video, showing some useful tips with that monster Kutzal extreme burr... You saved "beginner carver's" skin (literally) unnecessary pain and blood loss!... Thanks.
Fantastic tip. 👍🍁✌️. By the way , this is how guys who don’t learn from this will be ordering 5 beers when this BS we are all going through when get out of this . Stay safe , see when the all clear is sounded☘️🇨🇦✌️
In my opinion the bit chatter happens because the bit wants to grab the right side and that pulls it downward, then it contacts the left side of the cut and it gets pulled upwards. Now imagine it happening rapidly over and over and you have chatter. Hold the bit more vertical and the motion of the chatter will change to forward and backward instead of up and down.
Thank you, that was very educational. It's great that you take the time to help those of us who are new to this craft. So many videos have no talking and you just can't pick up anything useful from them. You take the time to teach and demonstrate and we really do appreciate that.
Excellent!! exactly the question I had as I was becoming increasingly frustrated with this; Not only that, a safety issue for me as I am a surgeon and can't afford any injuries of the hands.. thanks again for the info
Been carving waxes for the jewelry industry for over 50 years and carving wood for 30. I would "NEVER use that shape of burr for curved lines! Thats one reason you're bouncing because of that and you're trying to bite off too much wood at once! Please use a round burr! A lighter hand at the right moments can make all the difference! Also I wouldn't be carving against the grain but turn the piece so that the burr is spinning off and down an edge rather than up an edge! Ofcourse this is a very rough demo so I get it😊 Enjoy yourself!
vibration is also an enemy here. try to use good work holding and dont let the piece vibrate. once it happens it starts resonating, which increases vibration, and that feedback loop can be dangerous. Jordy didnt point that out here, but im sure when carving he would have the piece secure. In hand or otherwise.
Great advice. Been a Dremel user for 30+ years, and just got a Foredom TX Square Drive. Love the power, but I notice 2 things. The grabbing and jumping is worse with a flex shaft than with a direct drive tool (I'm guessing it the 'windup' of the shaft that makes it worse). Also, keep the RPM up, while this seems counter intuitive, as you would think it would be easier to control at low speed, the tendency to grab is proportional to speed, the slower the bit is turning, the more likely it is to catch. The Foredom has so much torque that if it grabs, you have NO chance of hanging on and stalling it out like you can with a Dremel. It will just wrap the shaft around itself and keep coming until your brain reengages and you lift off the pedal. Ask me how I know. I can also confirm the Kutzall extremes hurt, the Saburrtooth bits are worse, and the Typhoons hurt the worst. Again, I bled, so, hopefully so you won't (at least as much). Thanks Jordy. PS - Added a cheap wire tip burner to the kit recently, (they're pretty safe, from a bleeding standpoint anyway). How about some tips on using the burner effectively? I just know you have some secret tricks..
It’s called chattering when the bit makes that sound. Thanks for sharing that with us and please make more videos! Very instructive! I just got a new Dremel 4300 and I going to try wood carving for myself! What kind of bits do you recommend for a beginner?
For beginners it would help to have that wood clamped - reduce the jumping especially if you are not strong enough to hold it down firmly. This type of bur is for rough cut-outs where one side is deeper than the other - not good for clean thinner lines.
The chaffering is happening because during your subsequent passes you aren't holding the tool at the exact same angle, causing the bit to be turned slightly in the groove and binding. Your solution is best available since the proper solution is to hold the tool perfectly the same, which is a level of precision beyond what humans can do. That's where CNC comes in.
yes and no. you are correct, to a point, but holding the angle will not help once you reach a certain depth. What jordy is saying is true once the channel is deep enough, no angle retention will keep the bit from catching.
How do you dry your wood so it doesn’t split? I’m just starting out and can’t seem to dry the logs/branches I find without them splitting. Great videos cheers 😊
I've got a good solution for this: you paint or use wax (old pros) immediately after cutting on all the ends. The inside of the wood dries at a different speed than the outside, this is what causes checks. By painting or waxing the ends for a year or two of your rounds or logs it helps control the process. I do the same thing to my green slabs when I alaskan mill them. Anyway, paint fresh ends asap. If you leave it under a tarp almost 100% you're gonna see mold which can be good like spalting
wood splitting has to do with the moisture content of the wood, the rate that it is dried & also area that it is being dried at... in ARK. it is real humid , wood dries slower, and lets say nevada being low humidity, wood dries faster and then in montana it is dry & colder and will dry differently... one thing to try is keep a few pieces inside your home that has a controlled environment. good luck
I had problems finding the burs here in Australia but I decided to order them direct from Kutzall. Don’t hesitate to do the same. The service is terrific and the burs arrived within a week.
Most are now available in the U.K. but they sell out quick I have a few U.K. links on my videos. Hope it helps. When I first started I had to bite the bullet and pay shipping and customs from USA
I'm one of bigs fan I usely I'm on Ed's woodworking face book I have carving cents I 15 year old I'm 56 now thank you for what you do but if you trace your line with A dremmel fine bit
Okay, but what if you want nice certain size lines!? You don't want to feather one side of your line cuz it changes the way it looks! You can't just feather every single line to stop the chaffing! Cuz the line isn't the same! Feathering just widens the line and changes the entire dynamic of the picture. So ya this works if you don't care about precise lines.
Hello and thank you for your videos! So, I wanna get into carving (wood, stone, glass, whatever) and I am looking for a tool that would allow me to approach this craft. I am looking to work on small pieces and not super hard materials. Not too expensive...any suggestion? There are so many dremels and Foredoms around... Thank you!
@@CarvingFusion Thank you for your help) Sounds good. I was thinking about the Stylo but the flex shaft would be just as good plus more powerful for other uses. Cheers!
I'm looking in to making my own chess set. i just found out that my family has a dremel so i'm looking in to using that for the pieces. would this be the right tool to use? if so which attachments should i use?
hi there im searching for a little more powerfull rotary tool then my Dremel (3000 or something) and ive seen those Foredoms sometimes ... but then ive seen the Dremel Fortiflex (9100) do you think a Fortiflex would be a good Device for someone just Doin Hobby Grade work ? The Cheapest Set for an Foredom would be Double the Price for an Dremel 9100 x)
Hmmmmm,, um I had the forty flex and sent it back within a few days as I just did not like it, maybe search Amazon for a knock off foredom for under 100, I know lots of people that use them that are fine with them as a hobby, But a foredom will last you the rest of your life :)
Hey Jordy I Love yer channel man. I learned most of my basics thru u and am on my way to becoming pretty good. So anyway I just wanted to mention that I do have this problem that your talking about in this Video. Accept not with using a Burr but with the ROTO Zip! Ugh!!! Its so frustrating. I can't seem to get any decent control over it at all. Particularly with the beard lines and whatnot. Any tips u could toss my way. I'm sure like anything some practice will suffice. Is there Anything else along with the Practice I could do? Thanks for your time and consideration.
Why not just use the Flex shaft for us beginners. That is what I would like to see. Stuff that we will actually start using. I don't plan on buying a dremel upgrade for now at least. Thanks.
That only helped me a little, I’d like to know the detailed differences between garnets, ruby/sapphires, spinels & other stones found With corundum gems. After seeing a video on finding sapphires/rubies, I’m convinced that I’ve found sapphires when compared to their stones. But not one person mentions the feel, texture, if dirt sticks to it or the weight, I’m a total amateur & still don’t know what I have? Most are green with red, some are bright red or tan & a few bright blue, but look black. They sometimes have a shiny metallic lined face or look smooth, like wax but hard as nails to cut. Finally I’d prefer to have someone explain it like they’re talking to adults not kids. (Ladies, I mean you, sorry but it’s annoying)
“kAye guys,I wanna show you somethin” … {Starts carving} {burr jumps} “See that…?” {Burr jumps again} “There, did ya see that..¿” {Burr Jumps, another time} “See…?” {Burr Jumps x4} “Did you see…?” 💭 *Maybe they weren’t watching… * 💭 *hmm, I got an idea!* {Random piece of information coming…} “This is spruce guys”😂 {Burr Jumps again} “Now, did you see that..?” {burr jumps yet another time} “See how the burr is, jumpin!..¿” 😅 🤦🏻♂️ 😂
Thanks Gordy you’re answer is good, being a professional power carver I wanted to make sure that you’re giving beginners good advice and you are 👍🏻. For a more advanced carver we would use a round course burr instead of a cone and cut across the wood grain instead of spinning with grain direction. As I’m sure you know cutting a deep channel with a less aggressive bit would take a long time or burn the bit, but for a beginner you gave solid advice! Beginners don’t need to work that fast anyway. Keep up the good work! Thanks again
All good info. I have worked with handpieces for well over 50 years in the dental industry. My best advice to beginners is to slow down. Listen to the strain on the handpiece as you go. The sound of the handpiece and control of the cutting bit will regulate the safe speed and pressure to make accurate cuts. Just my 2 cents. Thanks for your wisdom.
I'm a technician myself. Agree, the key is definitely the ear 👌
I caught myself blowing on the screen to move the saw dust lol 😆 😂 😅
Lol
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 I did it two. It has to be because I saw this comment. 🤷♀️🤣🤣🤣
One time I tried to use my index finger and thumb to zoom in on a photo in a magazine 🤦♂️
Lol
Me too. But then I was blowing off real sawdust as I practiced 😂
THANK YOU! Oh my goodness, this is so helpful. My husband let me have his old Dremel so I can try carving some smaller wood pieces. I was getting so frustrated and scared when the tool kept 'getting away' from me. I'm now waiting on a cutting glove to arrive and watching all the wood carving videos I can. :)
Thanks Foxx
I haven’t even started carving and I can already tell I’m going to refer to this constantly
Thank you from a newbie in Philadelphia.
I had to follow you the second that your #1 “wasn’t” to wear leather gloves 😂🫵🏼🙌🏼
Ok I’ll finish watching now. I have no doubt it will be worth it 👍🏼
and it was… great job Sir 🙌🏼
Excellent video.
Because of you, I have started power wood carving. I ran out and purchased a few rotary tools and I am in the process of learning how to handle the tool. At the moment I am practicing cutting, feathering, depth, angles, types of wood and their cutting characteristics. This video is so important to us beginners. It would be nice if you did a whole video series about beginning wood carving.
Thank you so much. 💕❤️💕❤️💕
Awesome good 4 u and be sure to send me pics so i could maybe give u suggestions
@@CarvingFusion I sure will Jordy. You should teach power wood carving as a career. You are so good at it. ❤️
Thanks again Jordy, you may have saved me from an urgent care visit
That was a good video, showing some useful tips with that monster Kutzal extreme burr... You saved "beginner carver's" skin (literally) unnecessary pain and blood loss!... Thanks.
Lol 😆 :)
Fantastic tip. 👍🍁✌️. By the way , this is how guys who don’t learn from this will be ordering 5 beers when this BS we are all going through when get out of this . Stay safe , see when the all clear is sounded☘️🇨🇦✌️
In my opinion the bit chatter happens because the bit wants to grab the right side and that pulls it downward, then it contacts the left side of the cut and it gets pulled upwards. Now imagine it happening rapidly over and over and you have chatter. Hold the bit more vertical and the motion of the chatter will change to forward and backward instead of up and down.
Hear this man. He's right. You may not want that smooth slope. Thanks a lot, friend. I'll try that
Thank you, that was very educational. It's great that you take the time to help those of us who are new to this craft. So many videos have no talking and you just can't pick up anything useful from them. You take the time to teach and demonstrate and we really do appreciate that.
Thanks peg
Excellent!! exactly the question I had as I was becoming increasingly frustrated with this; Not only that, a safety issue for me as I am a surgeon and can't afford any injuries of the hands.. thanks again for the info
Thank u, yes take care of those hands!!
just got into this as a hobbyist thank you lol
Have fun
Been carving waxes for the jewelry industry for over 50 years and carving wood for 30. I would "NEVER use that shape of burr for curved lines! Thats one reason you're bouncing because of that and you're trying to bite off too much wood at once! Please use a round burr! A lighter hand at the right moments can make all the difference! Also I wouldn't be carving against the grain but turn the piece so that the burr is spinning off and down an edge rather than up an edge! Ofcourse this is a very rough demo so I get it😊
Enjoy yourself!
vibration is also an enemy here. try to use good work holding and dont let the piece vibrate. once it happens it starts resonating, which increases vibration, and that feedback loop can be dangerous.
Jordy didnt point that out here, but im sure when carving he would have the piece secure. In hand or otherwise.
Great advice. Been a Dremel user for 30+ years, and just got a Foredom TX Square Drive. Love the power, but I notice 2 things. The grabbing and jumping is worse with a flex shaft than with a direct drive tool (I'm guessing it the 'windup' of the shaft that makes it worse). Also, keep the RPM up, while this seems counter intuitive, as you would think it would be easier to control at low speed, the tendency to grab is proportional to speed, the slower the bit is turning, the more likely it is to catch. The Foredom has so much torque that if it grabs, you have NO chance of hanging on and stalling it out like you can with a Dremel. It will just wrap the shaft around itself and keep coming until your brain reengages and you lift off the pedal. Ask me how I know. I can also confirm the Kutzall extremes hurt, the Saburrtooth bits are worse, and the Typhoons hurt the worst. Again, I bled, so, hopefully so you won't (at least as much).
Thanks Jordy.
PS - Added a cheap wire tip burner to the kit recently, (they're pretty safe, from a bleeding standpoint anyway). How about some tips on using the burner effectively? I just know you have some secret tricks..
I have a video on my play list about jumping foredoms, speed up ur cuttung passes
@@CarvingFusion Thanks!
Chaafer! Working with the grain!! It’s good, but you know that wood grains are and tear it up, just don’t work against the grain! 👍
It’s called chattering when the bit makes that sound. Thanks for sharing that with us and please make more videos! Very instructive! I just got a new Dremel 4300 and I going to try wood carving for myself! What kind of bits do you recommend for a beginner?
Kutzall bits, the flame burr and tapper burrs
@@CarvingFusionthanks so very much for answering my questions and Best Wishes!
Wow Learned something 🤩
Excellent advice. Thank you!
For beginners it would help to have that wood clamped - reduce the jumping especially if you are not strong enough to hold it down firmly. This type of bur is for rough cut-outs where one side is deeper than the other - not good for clean thinner lines.
Muchas gracias amigo, me ayudas con tus consejos estoy recién comenzando en esto
Cut cut... feather feather. Got it 👌🏻 back to carving now
Lol
What about using a large bit to shallow cut a set groove path and establish desired width, then downsize the bit to cut sharp ridges on either side?
Thank you so much for that demonstration bud. It's starting to help me out a lot
Your videos are so helpful when just starting out, great job again Jordy
Thanks spike
Thanks Jordy!
Greetings from Arkansas 👋
Thank you too
The chaffering is happening because during your subsequent passes you aren't holding the tool at the exact same angle, causing the bit to be turned slightly in the groove and binding. Your solution is best available since the proper solution is to hold the tool perfectly the same, which is a level of precision beyond what humans can do. That's where CNC comes in.
Nope
yes and no. you are correct, to a point, but holding the angle will not help once you reach a certain depth. What jordy is saying is true once the channel is deep enough, no angle retention will keep the bit from catching.
The word is 'chattering' ffs🙄
Thank you! Now I know what I was doing wrong 😂. I was cutting and trying to hang on, few close calls!
:)
Important things to know to save injury!
👍👍👍
Thanks Jordy! Very helpful and useful information. I will be referring to this video when I do my next video.
Ty
You made an absolute masterpiece! Well done!
Be nice!
How do you dry your wood so it doesn’t split? I’m just starting out and can’t seem to dry the logs/branches I find without them splitting.
Great videos cheers 😊
Hmmm judt leave outside under a tarp my nest guess would be
I've got a good solution for this: you paint or use wax (old pros) immediately after cutting on all the ends. The inside of the wood dries at a different speed than the outside, this is what causes checks. By painting or waxing the ends for a year or two of your rounds or logs it helps control the process. I do the same thing to my green slabs when I alaskan mill them. Anyway, paint fresh ends asap. If you leave it under a tarp almost 100% you're gonna see mold which can be good like spalting
wood splitting has to do with the moisture content of the wood, the rate that it is dried & also area that it is being dried at... in ARK. it is real humid , wood dries slower, and lets say nevada being low humidity, wood dries faster and then in montana it is dry & colder and will dry differently... one thing to try is keep a few pieces inside your home that has a controlled environment. good luck
Thanks Jordy👍👏the fingers you saved appreciate your fine lessons👍🗿🆒
This is another great video. I've had this exact problem and would get frustrated. Awesome....thank you.
That is a really useful tip. Not so easy to find the Kutzall tips in the U.K. So far I’ve only found the 1/4” ones. I’ll keep looking though!
I had problems finding the burs here in Australia but I decided to order them direct from Kutzall. Don’t hesitate to do the same. The service is terrific and the burs arrived within a week.
Most are now available in the U.K. but they sell out quick I have a few U.K. links on my videos. Hope it helps. When I first started I had to bite the bullet and pay shipping and customs from USA
@@CustomCarvingandepoxyUK Thank you, I’ve just managed to get hold of one of the extreme ones in 1/8” from Amazon. Success!
Good tutorial
What is the name of the bit
I'm one of bigs fan I usely I'm on Ed's woodworking face book I have carving cents I 15 year old I'm 56 now thank you for what you do but if you trace your line with A dremmel fine bit
:)
Try using your right hand. Then you can hold with the left and if it skips out, it won’t hit anything.
stupid right handed tools
Once you make your first pass push it instead of pulling helps with the jumping
Would these be good for cutting an inlay with irregular curved out a block of wood?
Thanks for this Jordy, my Dremel came early this morning & I'm mad to get at it 😊
Great tips Jordy!
hi jordy. thanks for the tip. stay safe.
Thank you for the great tip.
This was so informative! Big help! 🪵
So glad!
Okay, but what if you want nice certain size lines!? You don't want to feather one side of your line cuz it changes the way it looks! You can't just feather every single line to stop the chaffing! Cuz the line isn't the same! Feathering just widens the line and changes the entire dynamic of the picture. So ya this works if you don't care about precise lines.
U use a diffrent burr for that, this was for this type of burr
Learning from your great videos
Thanks
Thank you so much for sharing! This is very helpful!
Cheers Jordy, your videos are always helpful.
Sir is it too much vibration?? I m a wood craving lover please suggest good tools please small all type of chisels also rotary wit all type of bits
Not to much vibration no,
@@CarvingFusion thank you sir
Sir i want good quality bits and chisels also where to buy please need suggest
@You can do kutzall bits amazon, flex cut qiuges amazon
Thnk you sir
Estou iniciando nessa arte, como se chama essa broca? Ela realmente cava bem!
English?
I'm starting in this art, what is this scolding called? She really digs wood well!
Great tips jordy.... Have a nice weekend.
hey Jordy, Is the Dremel 4000 the most powerful of the dremels? Is this your go to for wood carving?
Yes dremel 4000 is my go too one but the 4300 is the fastest
@@CarvingFusion This may have came to you twice, but are the foot pedal and flex shaft both dremel products or are they something else?
@@pa.fishpreacher6166 no it's a different pedal u can just amazon on off foot pedal
Hello and thank you for your videos! So, I wanna get into carving (wood, stone, glass, whatever) and I am looking for a tool that would allow me to approach this craft. I am looking to work on small pieces and not super hard materials. Not too expensive...any suggestion? There are so many dremels and Foredoms around... Thank you!
Id say the best combo is the dremel 4000 with the dremel flex shaft! 100% yup
@@CarvingFusion Thank you for your help) Sounds good. I was thinking about the Stylo but the flex shaft would be just as good plus more powerful for other uses. Cheers!
What if one needs those deeper grooves though? Use a smaller and smaller tool?
Learning every day 🙌
Jordy , thank you for this tutorial 😊
I'm looking in to making my own chess set. i just found out that my family has a dremel so i'm looking in to using that for the pieces. would this be the right tool to use? if so which attachments should i use?
I made my chess pieces with my lathe and a couple hand chisel's worked good
hi there im searching for a little more powerfull rotary tool then my Dremel (3000 or something) and ive seen those Foredoms sometimes ... but then ive seen the Dremel Fortiflex (9100) do you think a Fortiflex would be a good Device for someone just Doin Hobby Grade work ? The Cheapest Set for an Foredom would be Double the Price for an Dremel 9100 x)
Hmmmmm,, um I had the forty flex and sent it back within a few days as I just did not like it, maybe search Amazon for a knock off foredom for under 100, I know lots of people that use them that are fine with them as a hobby,
But a foredom will last you the rest of your life :)
I thought your were Native American from your accent - but Canadian makes sense too o grew up net to Quebec border
How many times do you cut your hand in the path of a spinning bit before your wise up and improve your method?
Thank u
Does a harder wood like oak react differently?
Yes I would say so
Sir Can I use this on Plywood ❓
100% yes I have done it
This just happened to me luckily I was wearing a glove but it twisted into the dremel
I'm looking for a smaller dremal like these but can't find anything but battery ones. Any suggestions?
There are many on amazon
Where do we get those trimmers??
What do you call if?
Kutzall carving bitd
Kindly tell what machine you are using or the place of availability
A WEN ROTORY TOOL
great tip
thanks
Thanks “JJ”
What kind of table are you using? Did you make it or buy it? Thanks!
I'm sorry jordy for making dick comments...i apologize. YOU ARE EXTREMELY TALENTED.
Thanks but never seen the dick comment's loll
Hey Jordy I Love yer channel man. I learned most of my basics thru u and am on my way to becoming pretty good. So anyway I just wanted to mention that I do have this problem that your talking about in this Video. Accept not with using a Burr but with the ROTO Zip! Ugh!!! Its so frustrating. I can't seem to get any decent control over it at all. Particularly with the beard lines and whatnot. Any tips u could toss my way. I'm sure like anything some practice will suffice. Is there Anything else along with the Practice I could do? Thanks for your time and consideration.
Yes the roto zip is hard to control
Why not just use the Flex shaft for us beginners. That is what I would like to see. Stuff that we will actually start using. I don't plan on buying a dremel upgrade for now at least. Thanks.
Sorry I don't understand
Thanks
excelent tip ty
chatter, work WITH grain. foredoms go both ways unlike dremel, use this feature.
Lol
Thanks!
Thanks so much Paul:)
Thank you for sharing ,
I'm just a beginner thanks for fun
Awesome keep at it
What the name of tools 😊
Dremel & foredom
I have a question dose the Dremel 3 jaw chuck fit into the flex shaft and if it dose could you use the 1/4 burr instead of the 1/8
Yes it does but does not fit the 1/4 burrs .
@@CarvingFusion Ok thanks jordy for the quick reply
One big probleme is you do not have the wood secured clamped down firmly and unable to move. That alone makes a massive difference....
If you think so
@@CarvingFusion oh I know so bro bro
I'm wanting to get a power carving dremel and flex shaft.. could I get some suggestions
Dremel 4000 with the dremel flex shaft
I’m trying to pick up carving and having a hard time with eyes- Wood spirit eye .can you do a line by line carving of eyes
Hey craig sorry to say it but there is some eye vids in my members vids
Which is this tool used for carving?
Foredom
I want to buy.from where I can get
Thank you!
MrMeowgi checking in. Ha ha. Have you ever power carved a block of bass wood? I have small blocks for knives I thought about trying
Yup sure have, nice wood for carving, a wood carvers choice!
Awesome. Will be working on something today. Been making spoons lately. And Doug Linker knife carved owls. Thanks again for helping everyone out
That only helped me a little, I’d like to know the detailed differences between garnets, ruby/sapphires, spinels & other stones found With corundum gems. After seeing a video on finding sapphires/rubies, I’m convinced that I’ve found sapphires when compared to their stones. But not one person mentions the feel, texture, if dirt sticks to it or the weight, I’m a total amateur & still don’t know what I have? Most are green with red, some are bright red or tan & a few bright blue, but look black. They sometimes have a shiny metallic lined face or look smooth, like wax but hard as nails to cut.
Finally I’d prefer to have someone explain it like they’re talking to adults not kids. (Ladies, I mean you, sorry but it’s annoying)
:) happy to help
“kAye guys,I wanna show you somethin” …
{Starts carving}
{burr jumps}
“See that…?”
{Burr jumps again}
“There, did ya see that..¿”
{Burr Jumps, another time}
“See…?”
{Burr Jumps x4}
“Did you see…?”
💭 *Maybe they weren’t watching… *
💭 *hmm, I got an idea!*
{Random piece of information coming…}
“This is spruce guys”😂
{Burr Jumps again}
“Now, did you see that..?”
{burr jumps yet another time}
“See how the burr is, jumpin!..¿”
😅 🤦🏻♂️ 😂
Did you see the bur jump?
We saw :)
Just do it by right hand and it won't hit your fingers
if you have a foredom it can spin either way
You’ll know it’s about to jump out and bite ya when it starts hollerin’ like baby Chewbacca.
You’re welcome.
Lol ha
What if I want a deep Chanel that’s not feathered on one side?
Use a less agressave burr
Thanks Gordy you’re answer is good, being a professional power carver I wanted to make sure that you’re giving beginners good advice and you are 👍🏻. For a more advanced carver we would use a round course burr instead of a cone and cut across the wood grain instead of spinning with grain direction. As I’m sure you know cutting a deep channel with a less aggressive bit would take a long time or burn the bit, but for a beginner you gave solid advice! Beginners don’t need to work that fast anyway. Keep up the good work! Thanks again
New subscriber😅
:) thank u
Can you do a demonstration on a rock? Thank you.
Honthere I do have some soap stone or rock carvings in my play lists
What kind of dremel is this?
4000
If you clamp your workpiece and hold both hand on the Dremel you can't hurt your hands
Cut! Feather!