The fact that you show your mistakes makes it all so relatable. The emotional mix of relief and resignation after messing around is one I also experience during my own projects. Your project videos are therefore, for me personally, also one of the favorite to watch on TH-cam.
I have been a flooring contractor almost my whole adult life and I don't always agree with the customer's color choices BUT they have to live with it. LOL That being said, the door still came out looking very nice my friend.
I love the use of the salvaged plexiglass on the door. I used similar stuff which came from an old bus stop for a window in my workshop. It was quite marked so I sprayed it with frosting spray to hide the marks and for privacy. The door looks great. 👍
Some tips: Always do a dry fit before gluing up. Square off the rebate for the glass then you can fit beading to hold it in. I'm not sure why you didn't square off the timber on the table saw first. You'd get nice tight fitting joints instead of weird gaps. You can use the router to round off the edge of the inside of the panels afterwards.
I'm a year late but, he got it done and it's just a shed. It doesn't have to be perfect. And he probably does a dry fit before gluing and just doesn't film it or show it. Out of all the videos I've seen of his there's no way he got a perfect fit on the first time gluing it together on every video lol I just took it as it's a simple glue up he probably just didn't show the dry run
Really appreciate the experimentation in both the build and the presentation. I always like your videos but this one felt particularly well done.Great job Keith.
I always enjoy your videos because I always learn something new. Firstly those little red tabs. What a great idea. Next exterior rated MDF. I never knew something like that existed. And finally polyurethane glue. Definitely going to get some of that Keith. I’m sure your dad will be chuffed. It looks great!
Phew I'm not the only one who gets anxious during project, I've been know to get up during the night to check sommat is measured right 😄... Fantastic you show warts n all
Loved this video as I'm also thinking of making cupboard doors in the traditional way and have a hand router paired with very little experience. TBH, for a project such as yours, I would have visited my local salvage yard for a suitable door and cut or added wood if the fit needed adjusting.
Good work, scary doing your first door. Next will be much easier as you'll know the processes & widths of mortices & tenons (usually thirds) . Nice colour too, I prefer Red Mahogany, I liked your fill / replacement of knots.
Another timely video as I've got the task of making two interior doors coming up, and I've never made doors or mortice and tenon joints. I did consider buying a second-hand mortiser but as I have a router table, I might give the routing techique a go. Thanks.
@@RagnBoneBrown I think the key is to dry fit it first. That way you discover any issues like the panel fittings being too tight and you get an idea of where the tricky bits are going to be before you have the pressure of glue going off. Everyday is a lesson!
I got tired of replacing my shed door frame every 6 - 8 years so I ordered a PVC door and frame and placed it in December (2021) and hope it will give me many years of service.....
Nice job Keith I need to replace the door on my workshop so I think I might give it a shot myself after watching this as my door is far from a standard size and you make it look so easy with the way you explain each step.
The colour looked great on camera anyway. At least the clips from indoors, where it almost had that classic early-to-mid 20th century exotic wood stain look, like mahogany. Outdoors it seemed a bit red and not quite as nice, but still fine. Anyway, good work! As always, I really appreciate the narration. As a novice I learn alot from it.
For challenging glue-ups like that I've started using epoxy with a slow hardener. The one I use (West System 105 resin, with 206 slow hardener) promises about 25 minutes pot life, but I usually get more. The working time while you can still adjust things is hours long. Plus, it's slippery so it helps the joints slide together. The brand probably doesn't matter; whatever is available over there should work. The only downside is that it takes a long time to set up, so I usually just leave everything in clamps overnight. I guess cost is another downside; it's definitely more expensive than PU or PVA glue. I'm still on my first cans of it, though; I don't need it that often and so far it hasn't gone bad even after 3+ years.
Brilliant Keith, I’ve always followed your lead in showing the good, bad and ugly. Great finish, I’ve got a similar project on the horizon for the outside loo at our house, but strictly with leftovers / offcuts to keep the cost at a minimum. Thinking of using leftover shiplap cladding for the centre panel bits instead of sheet goods. All in my head at the moment so will have to see what happens 😀
Your skills and their application to projects is impressive. I’ve been able subscriber since you were in that little tool shed. Great progress! Thanks for sharing. Really cool project.
Great build and accurate cutting and routing - I thin glue ups are the most stressful part of almost any build. I think the wood swells faster than the glue dries so anything that's a perfect fit needs serious persuasion when glued. I felt your pain!
Couple more comments, for exterior door you really shouldn't have inset panel like this, it will inevitably collect water at the bottom. The way to do it is to have a plough and rebate your panel or tng and then it can be aligned with outer face of the door. And last thing - I think MDF is really gonna do poorly in the weather. If you just need a door that will do for few years then making a frame and putting on a skin over the top on the exterior would be a lot simpler. This door would be perfectly fine as interior one but not so much on the exterior. Sorry again for negative comments, I really like your channel just couldn't help and say something knowing some people might take this as the advice to follow. As for my credentials i am a joiner and have been for about 10 years and doors is one of the things I make. All the best and keep up the good work!
@@RagnBoneBrown fair enough altho i have to say i dont really trust that claim much. one easy thing that could have been done would be to cut a chamfer onto the frame so at least water doesnt have tendency to sit on the top face of the timber frame and have time to work its way into the groove for the panel. i kind of hate being critical hopefully its seen as constructive criticism!
I usually glue doors in two stages as well when I use PU or PVA. I try to dry fit the other upright before clamping everything up, so I know the other side fits. I usually leave the panels for the second round as well, unless it's fully glued in place.
Great job. A solid handful of items overlooked, and a bunch of "I would have done it differently" along the way, but I applaud the job! Materials should hold up pretty well (I hope). I've seen other , very much more experienced carpenters take on a job very similar to this, and shudder at the thought because of a number of things you brought out. Material selection, cut preference, method of preparation, type of joinery, choice of glue(s), stains, etc., all go into the agony of building an exterior door. The real proof, of course, is down the road a year, then 2-3 years, then 5 years, then 7, then 10... Watch how the door changes over time to really tell how well you did. The best example I saw was a guy building a 10/4 mahogany door 4' wide, 6' tall. It was also mortise/tenon joined. A couple of wrong choices meant that the $1,100 in materials turned to kindling a year later from warpage, making the door unsalvagable. Great work on the project. Look forward to seeing more.
Great vid, have to admire your router skills. Have to admit that i bought one with the misguided illusion that my wood working skills would improve overnight. It became clear that they didn't very quickly. How did you wall mount that makita charger ?
Great looking door Keith. Any issues with security with the plexiglass only fitted with silicone? I was wondering what else you could have done to strength the fit?
I'd like to see someone try and get through it.... Obviously it could be cut out but that would take a long time and then the window opening is too small for anyone to get through anyway 🤷♂️
Maybe take a leaf out of John Heinz’s book and use construction adhesive? He reasons it works in low temperature and has a long working time while being waterproof.
I’m a novice, when I do a complex glue up I give it a dry run, even pretend to spread the glue. I don’t have to then run off to my father-in-law’s for more clamps and an earful.
Just FYI - think your waste side jigs are the wrong ones. It looked like your cordless track saw came with Makitas newer thing kerf blade, it certainly looked the blueish colour. Double check but I think you’re blade will have a 1.45 kerf so you need the yellow jigs, the reds are marked as for Makita cordless tracksaw but there are 2 different blades in circulation.
I'd file this under jobs it's nice to do once to show that you can but commercially not worth it. If it wasn't your dad, would you not just pick a UPVC door and fit the frame to it?
Well, it was an unusually sized door at 1880x686 so I'm not sure a uPVC door would even be an option? But I've not looked in to it in great detail. I could have bought an exterior timber door and cut some off the height. But when you're a TH-cam woodworker, projects like this are too good to pass up
Good video and sorry to be a wet blanket but if you are using a low grade timber like this I would say it is total over kill to be putting mortice and tenon joint. Also because this wood is very soft the tenon will be quite weak potentially. I would say use half lap joint or buy better timber. All the best!
The fact that you show your mistakes makes it all so relatable. The emotional mix of relief and resignation after messing around is one I also experience during my own projects. Your project videos are therefore, for me personally, also one of the favorite to watch on TH-cam.
Thank you!
A good son… I think your Dad picked a good color. Good job.
I have to go with your Dad,that color looks real nice. You’re a good son.
Your Mum and Dad must be really proud of you and that you have a proper job, unlike eg a No 10 Special Advisor. Good vid!
I have been a flooring contractor almost my whole adult life and I don't always agree with the customer's color choices BUT they have to live with it. LOL That being said, the door still came out looking very nice my friend.
I think that the color looks quite well. Probably better on camera than in person. Needless to say you did great work with the door!
I like the color your Dad will love it!!
I love the use of the salvaged plexiglass on the door. I used similar stuff which came from an old bus stop for a window in my workshop. It was quite marked so I sprayed it with frosting spray to hide the marks and for privacy. The door looks great. 👍
You made a door! It was the best door making video I've ever seen! Thoroughly enjoyed!
You made that look easy even if it was a challenge. Nice one chap!
Son of the year
I enjoyed the build, impressive work as always Keith
Some tips: Always do a dry fit before gluing up. Square off the rebate for the glass then you can fit beading to hold it in. I'm not sure why you didn't square off the timber on the table saw first. You'd get nice tight fitting joints instead of weird gaps. You can use the router to round off the edge of the inside of the panels afterwards.
I'm a year late but, he got it done and it's just a shed. It doesn't have to be perfect. And he probably does a dry fit before gluing and just doesn't film it or show it. Out of all the videos I've seen of his there's no way he got a perfect fit on the first time gluing it together on every video lol I just took it as it's a simple glue up he probably just didn't show the dry run
Nice job bud. I like the colour of the stain but then again I've never been accused of having good taste 😀. Look forward to the next vlog. 🍻
Love seeing reclaimed materials getting turned into good functional pieces. Thanks Keith! 👍☺
Really appreciate the experimentation in both the build and the presentation. I always like your videos but this one felt particularly well done.Great job Keith.
I always enjoy your videos because I always learn something new.
Firstly those little red tabs. What a great idea. Next exterior rated MDF. I never knew something like that existed. And finally polyurethane glue. Definitely going to get some of that Keith.
I’m sure your dad will be chuffed. It looks great!
Thank you!
Outstanding craftsmanship Sir, you are the man, 👍 🔨 🇮🇪
You always have a lot of good information in the videos. Very helpful.
Phew I'm not the only one who gets anxious during project, I've been know to get up during the night to check sommat is measured right 😄... Fantastic you show warts n all
Cheers!
Nice job on the door Keith! Thanks for sharing the video with us!💖👍😎JP
Good result Keith enjoyed the build. Tony
Cheers Tony
Great work again, looking forward to the fitting!
Thank you
Really nice to see you. I always enjoy the work of yours.👍🏼💙
Dropping material on the router table always made me nervous so I got the plunge base for the Milwaukee palm router. Quite the time saver, too.
Really enjoyed this one as usual, hoping the fitting goes well. I tend to find old door frames are rarely, if ever, square.
Really nice job, looking forward to the install video 👍🏼
14 1/2 hours isn't too bad for your first attempt with such a good result. That makes it do-able 👍
Thanks
Loved this video as I'm also thinking of making cupboard doors in the traditional way and have a hand router paired with very little experience. TBH, for a project such as yours, I would have visited my local salvage yard for a suitable door and cut or added wood if the fit needed adjusting.
Good work, scary doing your first door. Next will be much easier as you'll know the processes & widths of mortices & tenons (usually thirds) . Nice colour too, I prefer Red Mahogany, I liked your fill / replacement of knots.
Cheers John
loved this vid, thanks so much from here in France
Another timely video as I've got the task of making two interior doors coming up, and I've never made doors or mortice and tenon joints. I did consider buying a second-hand mortiser but as I have a router table, I might give the routing techique a go. Thanks.
Cheers Martin, good luck. I hope your glue up goes better than mine did!
@@RagnBoneBrown I think the key is to dry fit it first. That way you discover any issues like the panel fittings being too tight and you get an idea of where the tricky bits are going to be before you have the pressure of glue going off. Everyday is a lesson!
@@FernsDad I definitely should do that... I never learn!
I got tired of replacing my shed door frame every 6 - 8 years so I ordered a PVC door and frame and placed it in December (2021) and hope it will give me many years of service.....
Good solid door that chap. Handsome brown too😂😉
The door looks great Keith. I learn a lot from your videos and thoroughly enjoy them mate 👍🏻👍🏻
Nice job Keith I need to replace the door on my workshop so I think I might give it a shot myself after watching this as my door is far from a standard size and you make it look so easy with the way you explain each step.
The colour looked great on camera anyway. At least the clips from indoors, where it almost had that classic early-to-mid 20th century exotic wood stain look, like mahogany. Outdoors it seemed a bit red and not quite as nice, but still fine.
Anyway, good work! As always, I really appreciate the narration. As a novice I learn alot from it.
Thank you
For challenging glue-ups like that I've started using epoxy with a slow hardener. The one I use (West System 105 resin, with 206 slow hardener) promises about 25 minutes pot life, but I usually get more. The working time while you can still adjust things is hours long. Plus, it's slippery so it helps the joints slide together. The brand probably doesn't matter; whatever is available over there should work. The only downside is that it takes a long time to set up, so I usually just leave everything in clamps overnight. I guess cost is another downside; it's definitely more expensive than PU or PVA glue. I'm still on my first cans of it, though; I don't need it that often and so far it hasn't gone bad even after 3+ years.
Cheers Laura, I suspect epoxy might even be more expensive here in the UK, though I'm not sure. Certainly sounds like a good option
Brilliant Keith, I’ve always followed your lead in showing the good, bad and ugly. Great finish, I’ve got a similar project on the horizon for the outside loo at our house, but strictly with leftovers / offcuts to keep the cost at a minimum. Thinking of using leftover shiplap cladding for the centre panel bits instead of sheet goods. All in my head at the moment so will have to see what happens 😀
Cheers Leo. Shiplap is a great idea for the panel, will look really nice. Hope you film it! 👍
Damn it Keith! My back door is awful & I just can't bare the cost of getting one made right now, & because of you I'm debating if I can do it myself
Watch the Samurai Carpenters vid on making a perspex baseplate for a router and adjustable fences. Makes mortices easy.
I like the color
Your skills and their application to projects is impressive. I’ve been able subscriber since you were in that little tool shed. Great progress! Thanks for sharing. Really cool project.
Thank you
Great build and accurate cutting and routing - I thin glue ups are the most stressful part of almost any build. I think the wood swells faster than the glue dries so anything that's a perfect fit needs serious persuasion when glued. I felt your pain!
Cheers. Yes I agree!
Very nice job.
Fantastic work, Keith! Nicely done! 😃
The MDF even looks like real wood!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Nice work !
I might would've tried selling the idea of painting the mdf panels, black probably
I like the colour, it must be an age thing.😄
Impressive result. Even the colour comes across as ok (just TH-cam?).
Couple more comments, for exterior door you really shouldn't have inset panel like this, it will inevitably collect water at the bottom. The way to do it is to have a plough and rebate your panel or tng and then it can be aligned with outer face of the door. And last thing - I think MDF is really gonna do poorly in the weather. If you just need a door that will do for few years then making a frame and putting on a skin over the top on the exterior would be a lot simpler. This door would be perfectly fine as interior one but not so much on the exterior. Sorry again for negative comments, I really like your channel just couldn't help and say something knowing some people might take this as the advice to follow. As for my credentials i am a joiner and have been for about 10 years and doors is one of the things I make. All the best and keep up the good work!
It is exterior grade MDF, manufacturer guidelines say it will last 50 years + in exterior conditions. This was explained in the video
@@RagnBoneBrown fair enough altho i have to say i dont really trust that claim much. one easy thing that could have been done would be to cut a chamfer onto the frame so at least water doesnt have tendency to sit on the top face of the timber frame and have time to work its way into the groove for the panel. i kind of hate being critical hopefully its seen as constructive criticism!
I usually glue doors in two stages as well when I use PU or PVA. I try to dry fit the other upright before clamping everything up, so I know the other side fits. I usually leave the panels for the second round as well, unless it's fully glued in place.
Great idea
Great job. A solid handful of items overlooked, and a bunch of "I would have done it differently" along the way, but I applaud the job! Materials should hold up pretty well (I hope). I've seen other , very much more experienced carpenters take on a job very similar to this, and shudder at the thought because of a number of things you brought out. Material selection, cut preference, method of preparation, type of joinery, choice of glue(s), stains, etc., all go into the agony of building an exterior door. The real proof, of course, is down the road a year, then 2-3 years, then 5 years, then 7, then 10... Watch how the door changes over time to really tell how well you did. The best example I saw was a guy building a 10/4 mahogany door 4' wide, 6' tall. It was also mortise/tenon joined. A couple of wrong choices meant that the $1,100 in materials turned to kindling a year later from warpage, making the door unsalvagable. Great work on the project. Look forward to seeing more.
Thank you
Great vid, have to admire your router skills. Have to admit that i bought one with the misguided illusion that my wood working skills would improve overnight. It became clear that they didn't very quickly. How did you wall mount that makita charger ?
Cheers. I don't remember actually, I think I just used some mounting tape and then screwed some wood to support the underside or something
Great looking door Keith. Any issues with security with the plexiglass only fitted with silicone? I was wondering what else you could have done to strength the fit?
I'd like to see someone try and get through it.... Obviously it could be cut out but that would take a long time and then the window opening is too small for anyone to get through anyway 🤷♂️
Was there supposed to be something (a picture, maybe?) at 9:36? The video just goes black for half a second.
I remember that gate! That was a year ago? Jesus, time is so weird lately...
Maybe take a leaf out of John Heinz’s book and use construction adhesive? He reasons it works in low temperature and has a long working time while being waterproof.
Good stuff, Keith. Enjoyed this build, with all the little details in it 👍
Epoxy's the thing for tricky glue-ups. Around £50= for the West System - really can't go wrong.
Nice job
I’ve done the whole nervous about a glue up trip after “quitting time.”
Just wondering how is the door holding up? Wondered about the framing more than the MDF..
Fine so far
@@RagnBoneBrown thanks for the reply- One more question - is there anything you’d change about the materials if you were doing it again?
How do you think the MDF will withstand the weather?
As explained in the video, it's exterior grade MDF and should last 50 years+
@@RagnBoneBrown - excellent! I missed that. Looks great!
I've always followed Gid joiner channel for making various doors and not experienced any prolems.
I’m a novice, when I do a complex glue up I give it a dry run, even pretend to spread the glue. I don’t have to then run off to my father-in-law’s for more clamps and an earful.
stand the ends of the wood in the preserver
One question if I may... You mentioned you have 14 hours in this build already. Do you count glue drying as well or is it just hands-on-tool time?
I don't tend to count glue time although I should probably say the timings I give are estimated, they're not measured very accurately
I'm going all pedantic now. I've always called the part you called the cill a weather bar.
Just FYI - think your waste side jigs are the wrong ones. It looked like your cordless track saw came with Makitas newer thing kerf blade, it certainly looked the blueish colour. Double check but I think you’re blade will have a 1.45 kerf so you need the yellow jigs, the reds are marked as for Makita cordless tracksaw but there are 2 different blades in circulation.
Cheers, yes looks like you're right! Still, I suspect 0.15mm discrepancy is too small for me to notice 👍
I'd file this under jobs it's nice to do once to show that you can but commercially not worth it. If it wasn't your dad, would you not just pick a UPVC door and fit the frame to it?
Well, it was an unusually sized door at 1880x686 so I'm not sure a uPVC door would even be an option? But I've not looked in to it in great detail. I could have bought an exterior timber door and cut some off the height. But when you're a TH-cam woodworker, projects like this are too good to pass up
@6:59 - "Here's Keithy!"
🤣
My wife helps me with those tough glue ups. The whole process usually ends with some sort of apology.
Good video and sorry to be a wet blanket but if you are using a low grade timber like this I would say it is total over kill to be putting mortice and tenon joint. Also because this wood is very soft the tenon will be quite weak potentially. I would say use half lap joint or buy better timber. All the best!
You must make your parents proud. (try not to worry so much 🙃)
Next time use epoxy for the glue up.
Than you have a lot more time to work.
Bottom rail needs to be deeper otherwise it will warp to buggery
It will have a sill mounted to it so it won't be able to warp
Should have gone with sapele :)
Lot of work Keith ,but looks good.
Cheers Michael
Ah yes, blood is thicker than water... :)
Good try 1st try though 👍👍👍👍
MDF for an external door wouldn’t be my choice would have been better with hardwood or exterior plywood
This is exterior grade MDF rated for 50 years - as explained in the video
Infact, just watch The Samurai anyway.
14 x 30 is £420 in wages, excluding materials, I know its easier to buy one and cheaper but no fun.
are not all YOUR colours, "Brown's" ?
I like the color