A few pointers from an engine shop background. Used lifters don't get used unless they go back on the same cam in the same engine in the same order. Hydraulic cams do not have a zero lash but are set into the plunger. Any flat tappet lifter on a cam swap should be set on Molly lube and ran at 1500-2500 for the first 20min to break in the lifters. Hope this helps you and the viewers.
Yes sir, I was taught to keep parts in order upon teardown, especially if you are going to reuse parts, my dad would keep everything in order to keep the same pieces in order for wear and tear. I would agree with you on the lash settings as this is how hydraulic lifters are designed. I had a cam ground for a SBC way back in the seventies and I used anti-pump hydraulic lifters and the cam grinder specs on those lifters were zero lash. Well, I inadvertently set the lash too tight, and it showed when I fired the engine (had to advance the timing to get it to start and it ran flat). Well, a friend of mine came over just as I was going to check the valve adjustment and we set them properly and of course it fired right up (now we had to back the timing off). So, it does vary with the camshaft and lifter set-up but all of the lifter specs on stock type engines are zero lash and at the most a full turn. And I changed lifters from a used engine one time (actually should have put in a new camshaft and lifters) and I paid for it also. It's double work to tear down the engine to do what should have been done to start with. Granted it is a different scenario with this application as the Iron Trap guys are fooling with a car that is not driven all the time but when one is depending upon a vehicle for daily use, either fix it right or go and get yourself a new one.
Yes sir, and while they had the head off inspect the cylinder walls for any obvious cracks. If found that cylinder can be sleeved right in the car with the proper boring bar setup. We had a 1955 Pontiac that was done that way. My dad tore the engine down to that point and a man came out to the house and put a sleeve in the engine right in the car. Of course this was in 1958 or 59 and this was when a lot of repairs were done on just what it took to fix the problem. Actually I am surprised that Matt has not scored a magnaflux setup with all of these estate buyouts he runs into.
I love the Schroll coupe - what a sweet job you've done on it, and is the most beautiful shitty representation of an old school hot rod I've seen. The lumpy cam is great! I still remember the first head I pulled on a blown head gasket job - I was amazed to see the pristine chamber alongside the other crusty ones. The customer had also run it for a while with water in the oil, and the whole bottom end had been steam cleaned by it! And kudos to the Southern Rock soundtrack!!!!
Fantastic! Master class in classic speed parts and fitment, and engine building like it was back in the day! Steve is an incredible asset/addition to the family! Your smile says it all! Love the lope! Go Iron Trap, keep moving forward!
I worked at a full service filling station in the early 60's. All the old Oldsmobiles (mid 50's) that came in had noisey lifters. One fix we did was STP. You had to add it to a warm engine since it's pretty thick. It really would quiet the lifter tap. Realize that these were old, high mileage engines. In the 50's anything over 80K was considered pretty high mileage.
I don't comment a lot but I will now. My favorite car is finally a proper hot rod. The sound and lope are amazing and sing with a true force. Can't wait for spring to watch a spirited drive through the countryside. Nice work guys!
It never sounded so good. Way to go Steve. You knew the whole time it would be good. I'd like that car a lot better if it was in primer. Rat rods were not a thing back in the day. I'm 77
Matt, I am originally from PA (Newtown area) and now at the beach in N/C I hate the cold and snow. I love what you have done to the coup there is nothing that screams "BITCHIN" better than and Olds with Trips on finned covers. It looks and sounds great. I would only fix the rot on the rear and lower parts of the car and call it a day. Thanks for sharing.
Love that car! Sounds wicked! Good to follow the evolution of this car, from the floppy wreck at the auction! Great save, great sound, hopefully a fun and reliable driver!
That brings back memories.. I use to go to California Speed and Sport when I lived in NJ in the 80s... very neat to see all the speed equipment in the shop...and yes at that time everything was ordered from a big catalog......
Building a 32 with 303 Olds, it was inspiring to watch this. I can hardly wait until I get to fire mine off. Putting in motor and trans next month. Thanks for the great timing to keep me going on it.
I got a 305 in my 76 c10 and it ran ok but wasnt any thing much for a fast take off then one day i did a total rebuild and put a RV cam in it now that woke it up i love the way it runs now and no dereference in fuel use
Yes, sir and the 305 engines are pretty good on fuel mileage to begin with. They are actually stoked up 265 engines (Bore just slightly under a 265 but a 3.48-inch stroke). That RV cam definitely is the way to go. Camshafts that give good low-end torque will generally yield good results without hurting fuel mileage and sometimes enhances it.
The adjustable rockers will work fine . I had to do that on my 68 AMX , running a crane fireball. 589 lift 322 duration had to go to such style adjustable rockers . Been running it since 1980 no issues !
If the head were cracked in the exhaust port, the spark plug wouldn't be washed. It would have to be either the inlet port or inlet manifold gasket. Also check the cylinder walls for cracks.
Definitely the nature of using a regrind cam, you will need different length pushrods or the adjustable lifters. Glad you had all the extra parts available and could easily make it work.
As a kid and budding hot rodder, I remember going to California Speed and Sport with my older brother. I think the store was in New Brunswick, NJ. Thought I died and went to heaven. I think they had a lot of go kart stuff as well as automotive.
I don’t know if you guys are aware of a little trick to eliminate air lock on the thermostat but drilling two small holes in the thermostat will eliminate the air block problem 🧐 hope this helps 👍
I really paid attention to your camshaft choices, I plan on a camshaft change when I pull the motor apart. I am using a 1957 371 Olds motor with factory tri-power in my 31 Ford Coupe, I have a set of Thomas magnesium adjustable rockers that I plan on using, also my 371 has the #10 heads also..
Great show to help you next time with problem stand the head on the intake side and pour water in the exhaust port side it's not perfect but it will give you an idea if it's a port or a valve leaking good luck
Like I and everyone else says the more you drive it the better it runs. Every car I own if it sat for a long time seem like it starts and runs sluggish until it's been driven a few day's and on the road. Looks and sounds great. 👍🏽
It sounds very good. Years back when we had decent petrol I would say the plugs should be a dark chocolate colour not sooty. This said if you have not taken the car on a run and just started it and let it idle several times this can make the plugs sooty. Having watched all this focus on lifters I wonder if you can help. I have owned a 289 Mustang since the early 90's and i have done just over 220,000 miles. The engine runs great but I get a lot of lifter clatter when idling with a hot engine in traffic. I have noticed that with the rocker boxes removed I can push a couple of rockers back so I guess the lifter valves are a little leaky. Can you, or any of your viewers, advise on a good make of lifters - I would hate to put dubious quality far eastern made lifters back in the engine.
You can use a micrometer to find your camshaft lift. Mic the "long" side of the cam lobe and then mic the "narrow" side of the lobe. Subtract the "narrow" side from the "long" side and then multiply that number times the rocker ratio of your rocker arms. I'm a Mopar guy and the stock rocker ratios are 1.5. ie 1.38 - 1.05 = 0.33 x 1.5 = .495. Your cam has a lift of .495
A few pointers from an engine shop background. Used lifters don't get used unless they go back on the same cam in the same engine in the same order. Hydraulic cams do not have a zero lash but are set into the plunger. Any flat tappet lifter on a cam swap should be set on Molly lube and ran at 1500-2500 for the first 20min to break in the lifters. Hope this helps you and the viewers.
Couldn't have said it better!
Yes sir, I was taught to keep parts in order upon teardown, especially if you are going to reuse parts, my dad would keep everything in order to keep the same pieces in order for wear and tear. I would agree with you on the lash settings as this is how hydraulic lifters are designed. I had a cam ground for a SBC way back in the seventies and I used anti-pump hydraulic lifters and the cam grinder specs on those lifters were zero lash. Well, I inadvertently set the lash too tight, and it showed when I fired the engine (had to advance the timing to get it to start and it ran flat). Well, a friend of mine came over just as I was going to check the valve adjustment and we set them properly and of course it fired right up (now we had to back the timing off). So, it does vary with the camshaft and lifter set-up but all of the lifter specs on stock type engines are zero lash and at the most a full turn. And I changed lifters from a used engine one time (actually should have put in a new camshaft and lifters) and I paid for it also. It's double work to tear down the engine to do what should have been done to start with. Granted it is a different scenario with this application as the Iron Trap guys are fooling with a car that is not driven all the time but when one is depending upon a vehicle for daily use, either fix it right or go and get yourself a new one.
It sounds really good to me through my 15 inch speakers. 👍
Thanks for the tip.
Chevy small block stock lifters are Zero lash + 1/4 turn cold, if I recall after ... 45 years lol!
Sounds great Matt;Steve did a hell of a job. Your lucky to have him in your shop.
You should send the old head out for magnafluxing . It would be interesting to see where that head is cracked..
Yes sir, and while they had the head off inspect the cylinder walls for any obvious cracks. If found that cylinder can be sleeved right in the car with the proper boring bar setup. We had a 1955 Pontiac that was done that way. My dad tore the engine down to that point and a man came out to the house and put a sleeve in the engine right in the car. Of course this was in 1958 or 59 and this was when a lot of repairs were done on just what it took to fix the problem. Actually I am surprised that Matt has not scored a magnaflux setup with all of these estate buyouts he runs into.
Sounds great. It’s cool that Steve is getting more used to being around the camera. Maybe a side by side with the Free T would be fun.😊
I love the Schroll coupe - what a sweet job you've done on it, and is the most beautiful shitty representation of an old school hot rod I've seen. The lumpy cam is great!
I still remember the first head I pulled on a blown head gasket job - I was amazed to see the pristine chamber alongside the other crusty ones. The customer had also run it for a while with water in the oil, and the whole bottom end had been steam cleaned by it! And kudos to the Southern Rock soundtrack!!!!
Fantastic! Master class in classic speed parts and fitment, and engine building like it was back in the day! Steve is an incredible asset/addition to the family! Your smile says it all! Love the lope! Go Iron Trap, keep moving forward!
Couldn't agree more!
Larry would have been proud to see it back in action, no doubt about it!
I'm not used to listening to music in the morning, but this car sounds great!
I love the sound of an Olds motor away it’s so different from anything else!!! Sounds bad ass great job guys!!!
”Vilket ös”, a little bit of Swedish there 👍👌. Great job on the coupé
I worked at a full service filling station in the early 60's. All the old Oldsmobiles (mid 50's) that came in had noisey lifters. One fix we did was STP. You had to add it to a warm engine since it's pretty thick. It really would quiet the lifter tap. Realize that these were old, high mileage engines. In the 50's anything over 80K was considered pretty high mileage.
Cam swap was well worth it!! Engine sounds fantastic!! Nice work Steve!!
Hey Matt, Steve sure did a great job putting it all together! Sounds great! Wow!
I don't comment a lot but I will now. My favorite car is finally a proper hot rod. The sound and lope are amazing and sing with a true force. Can't wait for spring to watch a spirited drive through the countryside. Nice work guys!
An upgrade it definitely needed, I hope it runs as good as it now sounds. Good job Steve.
Steve did an awesome job! It sounds great Matt!
Great video you're lucky to have those old parts I wish Moon was there to approve
Looks and sounds great!!! Awesome job. Enjoy watching your videos. Thanks guys.
Liking the new cam sounds nasty good job Steve
Wow! That major adjustment makes it sound aggressive!!! Sounds awesome!
Its nice to stand next to the engine for easy access. Sweet little rod!
It never sounded so good. Way to go Steve. You knew the whole time it would be good. I'd like that car a lot better if it was in primer. Rat rods were not a thing back in the day. I'm 77
I’d rather have weathered old paint with character and a story than another flat black car in primer.
@@IronTrapGarage That's cool. There are many tribes in this passion
Love that Schroll!
Glad you mentioned the short pushrods because it’s sounded like a solid lifter when you fired it up.
Such a short video for all the work involved on the engine, and for the editing to keep it succinct! The end result sounds heavenly 😇
Matt, I am originally from PA (Newtown area) and now at the beach in N/C I hate the cold and snow. I love what you have done to the coup there is nothing that screams "BITCHIN" better than and Olds with Trips on finned covers. It looks and sounds great. I would only fix the rot on the rear and lower parts of the car and call it a day. Thanks for sharing.
I think the next round of body fixes I’ll be repairing that lower rear panel.
Love that car! Sounds wicked! Good to follow the evolution of this car, from the floppy wreck at the auction! Great save, great sound, hopefully a fun and reliable driver!
That brings back memories.. I use to go to California Speed and Sport when I lived in NJ in the 80s... very neat to see all the speed equipment in the shop...and yes at that time everything was ordered from a big catalog......
Building a 32 with 303 Olds, it was inspiring to watch this. I can hardly wait until I get to fire mine off. Putting in motor and trans next month. Thanks for the great timing to keep me going on it.
Could listen to that lobe all day
Sounds and looks great! Makes me wish I was watching it with my grandpa.
32:10..... that exhaust note.... 👌👌
Well done Steve. Good find Mike. Starts and sounds great. Brought a big smile to Matt.
Love the sound, ❤ Winters always a little too quiet! Mike from Montreal.
That thing sounds really good .! Way to go Steve..!
I got a 305 in my 76 c10 and it ran ok but wasnt any thing much for a fast take off then one day i did a total rebuild and put a RV cam in it now that woke it up i love the way it runs now and no dereference in fuel use
Yes, sir and the 305 engines are pretty good on fuel mileage to begin with. They are actually stoked up 265 engines (Bore just slightly under a 265 but a 3.48-inch stroke). That RV cam definitely is the way to go. Camshafts that give good low-end torque will generally yield good results without hurting fuel mileage and sometimes enhances it.
When You set up the clearance on the rockers I believe there is a pattern to it . I did a cold adjustment on a Pontiac and followed the manual .
Nice work on the part of Steve. That cam does have a nice bark along with some power.
Great video! Love those vintage engines!
The adjustable rockers will work fine . I had to do that on my 68 AMX , running a crane fireball. 589 lift 322 duration had to go to such style adjustable rockers . Been running it since 1980 no issues !
Steve deserves a raise, mechanics like him are hard to find, raise !!!!!!!
Thats going be a fun one to drive
Sounds really good, guys!!!
Sounds great.
Nicely done.
great sound to vthe enginevwithvthe number 10 heads and the hot cam. I love the simplicity of the V8 pushrod engine Give That man a medal!
Another interesting and informative ITG tutorial, fabulous stuff once again ... and Steve is undoubtedly a real asset to the shop.
Sounds good, sounds like the engines sounded in the 50s and early 60s, as I remember anyway.
If the head were cracked in the exhaust port, the spark plug wouldn't be washed. It would have to be either the inlet port or inlet manifold gasket. Also check the cylinder walls for cracks.
That car is a beautiful thing!
I moved from Delaware to Texas to cure my snow problems. It was in the 80's today in Corpus Christi. I drive a Corvette year round here.
Definitely the nature of using a regrind cam, you will need different length pushrods or the adjustable lifters. Glad you had all the extra parts available and could easily make it work.
Very true!
Thank you Matt and Steve for the update on Schroll Coupe ! Steve di an awesome and is a valuable asset to the team !
What about the valve guide leaking into the cylinder?
That thing sounds awesome!!
Sounds awesome!! Steve is a great asset to the IronTrap team.
Such cool videos
Wow that Olds has a big ass block for just a 303 CI. I like it I had never seen one before.
Sounds great! A REAL home built Hot Rod.
Good call replacing those heads. Engine sounds terrific.
good show u guys r the best dat engine sounds great matches the look.😎👍
that ended up sounding very nice!
great show Matt
Make a plate for exhaust add air fitting ,pressureize,submerge in water look for bubbles.cheap,easy
Sounds really healthy
Hi Steve, you're a trip man, love watching your work.
Awesome guy
As a kid and budding hot rodder, I remember going to California Speed and Sport with my older brother. I think the store was in New Brunswick, NJ. Thought I died and went to heaven. I think they had a lot of go kart stuff as well as automotive.
yes they did on the cart stuff
California speed and sport is still open in New Brunswick
As soon as I saw the address on the catalog I had to Google it myself.. and yes they are still open
I hope it works out great ! It's difficult at best. Using used mismatched parts. Sounds awesome ,hope it performs as well
Sounds great, good job Steve
Sounds great. GREAT JOB Steve
Sounds great ,good job Steve.😊😊
Dude that thing sounds sweet!
I don’t know if you guys are aware of a little trick to eliminate air lock on the thermostat but drilling two small holes in the thermostat will eliminate the air block problem 🧐 hope this helps 👍
I really paid attention to your camshaft choices, I plan on a camshaft change when I pull the motor apart. I am using a 1957 371 Olds motor with factory tri-power in my 31 Ford Coupe, I have a set of Thomas magnesium adjustable rockers that I plan on using, also my 371 has the #10 heads also..
Great show to help you next time with problem stand the head on the intake side and pour water in the exhaust port side it's not perfect but it will give you an idea if it's a port or a valve leaking good luck
Like I and everyone else says the more you drive it the better it runs. Every car I own if it sat for a long time seem like it starts and runs sluggish until it's been driven a few day's and on the road. Looks and sounds great. 👍🏽
Sounds bloody great.
Dude!!! Great video!!! The cam sounds awesome!!! Great job Steve!!!It won't be long till the blow noise!!!✌️
Sounds freaking GREAT!
Nice work steve
Sounds great, can't wait till spring when it comes out for tuning
Sounds awesome!
Does sound good Matt! Steve great job on the engine! Would like to see that roof chopped, but that's alot of work!
This is my favourite of all your cars thanks 👍🇦🇺
Sounds perfect! Great work Steve!
Hey guys, enjoyed the video.....Ralph
That sounds great, it'll interesting when you run it out and see 👀 the difference 😀 ❤
I think so too!
California Speed and Sport was Right down the street from me when I lived in New Brunswick.
Another good one guys 👍👍
Love the sound
Very entertaining & informative episode, gotta love Steve's evil laugh.
3 minute mark and seeing your three rods lined up together. Makes me want to go the shop and throw my junk in the trash and start over. 😂
Haha it’s all cool!
Absolutely sounds wicked!!! luv it!
It sounds very good. Years back when we had decent petrol I would say the plugs should be a dark chocolate colour not sooty. This said if you have not taken the car on a run and just started it and let it idle several times this can make the plugs sooty.
Having watched all this focus on lifters I wonder if you can help. I have owned a 289 Mustang since the early 90's and i have done just over 220,000 miles. The engine runs great but I get a lot of lifter clatter when idling with a hot engine in traffic. I have noticed that with the rocker boxes removed I can push a couple of rockers back so I guess the lifter valves are a little leaky. Can you, or any of your viewers, advise on a good make of lifters - I would hate to put dubious quality far eastern made lifters back in the engine.
You can use a micrometer to find your camshaft lift. Mic the "long" side of the cam lobe and then mic the "narrow" side of the lobe. Subtract the "narrow" side from the "long" side and then multiply that number times the rocker ratio of your rocker arms. I'm a Mopar guy and the stock rocker ratios are 1.5. ie 1.38 - 1.05 = 0.33 x 1.5 = .495.
Your cam has a lift of .495
Nice to have extra parts
Sounds Tough Big Steve ! 🔥🔥
I love the sound awesome great job guys
What a sound! ...music!
Sounds good but I was really hoping for a scot blower on it. 👍
1:41 Think the engine is running rich? Not the left plug, the right one.