I got a message from a viewer who could not post a comment. Thought it well worth posting. "Hi Mike. Just saw your TH-cam hunts on threading and wanted to pass on my experience with a Jacobs chuck in the headstock. I dont have a TH-cam account so I couldn’t comment there. I was using a Jacobs chuck in the headstock with a drawbar to turn a bottle stopper. The wood was a scrap that was very irregular. Because I had the drawbar I didn’t use the tailstock. Your Jacobs chuck looks like mine, with a MT2 taper on one end of the arbor and a second taper in the end of the arbor that goes into the Jacobs chuck. The irregular wood caused enough vibration to work the chuck loose from the second taper. Probably wouldn’t be a problem making threads, but I used to think that with a drawbar I didn’t have to worry about the chuck coming loose... Thanks for your videos."
I have had that happen too! Its a good idea, every now and then to open your chuck up completely (so the jaws are totally recessed) turn it upside-down on a soft piece of wood, and give the MT tang a good whack with a leather mallet to seat it properly.
Nicely explained - thanks. You might want to take a look at the Simon Hope idea of an accurate hinge plate. This makes it very easy to check if your threads work okay and recut if needed.
I do not think Simon has a US distributor any longer. I have looked at his jig and it looks to be high quality but after getting used to swinging the jig I have out to check the fit, I guess I am not convinced of the value of the hinge plate. At the time that was about an $80 accessory. Just my 2 cents.
www.mscdirect.com/product/details/03196052?rItem=03196052 But you can get one cheaper from Chefwarekits.com www.chefwarekits.com/ez-threading-pro-xl-jig-thread-cutter/ez-threading-pro-60-degree-cutter-hss.html
Great video. I have a Baxter jig as the man who makes them lives near me. I have been cranking out so many large bowls I forgot I had the setup. Your video encourages me to get it out again and renew the learning curve.
Gosh Mike. That’s a lot of set-up . Seems like it would be worth the time to learn to hand cut the threads. I know you do both, so I’m wondering you opinion.
Did you watch the previous week's video where I compared hand thread chasing with a jig? I think that should help you decide what might be best for you.
Thanks for sharing, David. I prefer some type of adapter or nose piece on the lead screwso you can use a chuck. The challenge is getting the work holder to run true on the lead screw. I do like the idea of a router jig because it makes it easier to transfer work to and from the lathe without having to remove the jig and cutter from the lathe.
@@MikePeaceWoodturning Oh, there are lots of things about the jig I don't like. For example, it uses wood as bearings to hold the threaded rod that is at the heart of every threading jig. The rod it pinched between two boards at the front and between two boards at the back. The boards can be moved in or out, to 'pinch' smaller or larger rods, which allows the jig a range of thread sizes it can make. The problem is I doubt the wood 'bearings' will hold up for long. As they wear, there will be an increasing amount of 'slop' in the jig -- making it increasingly difficult to get acceptable results. What I did find interesting was they were able to get a good result without all the features we think are necessary in a jig. Their jig's 'micro adjust' feature is loosening a knob and tapping the router in or out until it's where you want it. None of this dialing it in another 10 thousand's of an inch! Yet, it worked!
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I got a message from a viewer who could not post a comment. Thought it well worth posting.
"Hi Mike. Just saw your TH-cam hunts on threading and wanted to pass on my experience with a Jacobs chuck in the headstock. I dont have a TH-cam account so I couldn’t comment there. I was using a Jacobs chuck in the headstock with a drawbar to turn a bottle stopper. The wood was a scrap that was very irregular. Because I had the drawbar I didn’t use the tailstock. Your Jacobs chuck looks like mine, with a MT2 taper on one end of the arbor and a second taper in the end of the arbor that goes into the Jacobs chuck. The irregular wood caused enough vibration to work the chuck loose from the second taper. Probably wouldn’t be a problem making threads, but I used to think that with a drawbar I didn’t have to worry about the chuck coming loose...
Thanks for your videos."
I have had that happen too! Its a good idea, every now and then to open your chuck up completely (so the jaws are totally recessed) turn it upside-down on a soft piece of wood, and give the MT tang a good whack with a leather mallet to seat it properly.
Thanks Mike, I have learnt a lot from this video. Regards Jon, new wood turner from SAWG Auckland NZ.
Thanks. I have used SAWG project plans many times.
Great tips on threading jigs Mike,thanks!👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you, Alan.
Thanks Mike. Nice video with good info on grain orientations plus the threading.
Thanks for the feedback, Ken.
Thanks for another great video. Thanks for sharing all the tips and details.
Thanks for the feedback, Ken.
Nice presentation Mike. I have recently begun threading and find this very informative.
Glad you found it useful. Threaded projects are fun.
Thanks for the review Mike.
Great video! Placing this on my wish list! SAFE TURNING, John
And to you, John.
Very well done review Mike.
Nicely explained - thanks. You might want to take a look at the Simon Hope idea of an accurate hinge plate. This makes it very easy to check if your threads work okay and recut if needed.
I do not think Simon has a US distributor any longer. I have looked at his jig and it looks to be high quality but after getting used to swinging the jig I have out to check the fit, I guess I am not convinced of the value of the hinge plate. At the time that was about an $80 accessory. Just my 2 cents.
Thanks!
For someone new to this process, a quick tip on grain alignment would also be helpful.
I will keep this in mind when I make a hand chasing video.
Which collet chuck do you use with your powermatic lathe?
Apprentice from Craft Supplies USA
Thanks. I enjoy watching your work.
Cool!
Yes dad 😍
Cannot seem to find the cutter at MSC Can you give me a part number, thanks
www.mscdirect.com/product/details/03196052?rItem=03196052 But you can get one cheaper from Chefwarekits.com www.chefwarekits.com/ez-threading-pro-xl-jig-thread-cutter/ez-threading-pro-60-degree-cutter-hss.html
Great video. I have a Baxter jig as the man who makes them lives near me. I have been cranking out so many large bowls I forgot I had the setup. Your video encourages me to get it out again and renew the learning curve.
Gosh Mike. That’s a lot of set-up . Seems like it would be worth the time to learn to hand cut the threads. I know you do both, so I’m wondering you opinion.
Did you watch the previous week's video where I compared hand thread chasing with a jig? I think that should help you decide what might be best for you.
Here's a link to a video of a threading jig that's so simple it doesn't even require a lathe! th-cam.com/video/pCDmwz91phM/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for sharing, David. I prefer some type of adapter or nose piece on the lead screwso you can use a chuck. The challenge is getting the work holder to run true on the lead screw. I do like the idea of a router jig because it makes it easier to transfer work to and from the lathe without having to remove the jig and cutter from the lathe.
@@MikePeaceWoodturning Oh, there are lots of things about the jig I don't like. For example, it uses wood as bearings to hold the threaded rod that is at the heart of every threading jig. The rod it pinched between two boards at the front and between two boards at the back. The boards can be moved in or out, to 'pinch' smaller or larger rods, which allows the jig a range of thread sizes it can make. The problem is I doubt the wood 'bearings' will hold up for long. As they wear, there will be an increasing amount of 'slop' in the jig -- making it increasingly difficult to get acceptable results.
What I did find interesting was they were able to get a good result without all the features we think are necessary in a jig. Their jig's 'micro adjust' feature is loosening a knob and tapping the router in or out until it's where you want it. None of this dialing it in another 10 thousand's of an inch! Yet, it worked!