There's a guy who sells kits in the US that are around $90 USD , housing, thermostat and gaskets included. I see you're using the $60 USD inline housing. However I think I've found an even cheaper way of doing this with 2 housings that I'll be butting up against each other squishing the thermostat in place. I plan on making a video, but thank you so much for explaining the science behind it
I read somewhere that the original thermostat arrangement only allowed a maximum hot/cold water mix of 15 or 20 percent which was done to aid quicker warm up and made the engine run hotter. I recently bought a thermostat conversion kit from megasquirt v8 that contains everything needed to put the thermostat back into the inlet manifold where it belongs. It's not cheap but it is worth every penny. I've got a Disco2 Thor engine in my SD1 and it dropped the engine temperature down from 95 degrees plus down to 86 degrees and it stays there. The only problem is that you can't have the aircon compressor but other than that it's a great bit of kit.
That sounds very cool indeed! God knows the Thor had its problems but in many ways its the best of them, the plenum is much better arrangement than the older engines. That sounds like an excellent conversion, I bet that's fantastic. I had an SD1 on my Rolling Road the other day, a 4.3 with TVR heads, inlet and throttle body. Sounds ded lovely with the exhaust headers too. Is your SD1 online anywhere??
I love comments like this. Many thanks for taking the time Trevor much appreciated. Its very satisfying knowing you've protected your motor with this simple mod right. Happy motoring
I also love the coil pack relocation. Such a great idea and if you ground it properly with a nice table and get it secured well it is so awesome because I had to change the coil already since the overpriced kit came with cheap ones and it was so easy right away I just checked all the wires one was a little burnt then the misfire switched to another cylinder of the same coil so I just swapped out the coil pack and boom it was fixed. I realized if somebody wants to do this upgrade they can avoid taking the manifold off just by abandoning the old coil packs behind the engine and using a long skinny funky tool to disconnect. Harness plugs from the original coils on to the harness extensions. Now you might have to remove Sai tubes from the back but that's no big deal. Otherwise you can leave the manifold on just run the extensions
Hmmmm, this sounds like a very good idea indeed! I hate where its located. Its a horrendous position and a nightmare to do anything with it. Its a nightmare just to put leads on, the leads are not happy being routed behind the heads too. Now you say it, I wish I had done this when I was messing around with the engine..... The second I have any problems with any of it, I will change the arrangement. Where exactly did you put yours? I've found it all a big tight directly in front of the engine?
@@lozl well I found a kid and it was way too expensive I wish I had used the second kid that I found later but I found a kit that runs to extension harnesses from behind over to near the alternator and it comes with a bracket that hooks to the alternator and it makes it sit between the alternator and the factory tire jack in that open area it's pretty cool. I think if you Google it you can find like it for cheaper that actually utilizes your upper plenum bolts and it holds a little bracket right there and then your coil packs go right under the hood in the upper plenum area where there's a little bit of space between the runners. That one utilizes Factory like plug wires mine can't with some really expensive custom cut ones that were super long on one side
extinctmotorsports.com/land-rover-thor-v8-coil-pack-relocation-kit/ If not I hook yet I believe you can just get wiring harness extensions and then come up with your own little metal bracket or something
@@ronaldrrootiii6040 cool thanks for the info. I will have q look when the time comes. I think our arrangement under the bonnet might be slightly different as mine is right hand drive. But I'm sure I can find somewhere. Oh yeah I've just seen the on top of plenum kit using same plug kesds that's a good money saver for sure not having special leads made. Up. As you might have seen I'm making a mobile rolling road and this is the reason for the discovery, to pull this heavy thing around. We will try a year of making money and if 2024 goes well we will invest a bit more money in the discovery. This coil relocation will defiantly be on the list.
Great vid Loz...first compehensible explanation of how the 'sputnik' functions. I have a p38 V8 in Australia and the underbonnet temperature shocked me when I first got it. Standard issue T/stat here was 87°C, soon replaced by repairers with the Gates 82° sputnik. In p38 forums, I have seen talk of placing a 'naked' stat in an apparently existing recess (in the valley?... poss. left over from the Classic RR) but not enough detail explained. Your vid, with the details about drilling bypass holes, and the link to the inline adaptor have given me the confidence to do this mod. I was just about to shell out for a new sputnik...saved! I also guessed then the OEM running temperature might have been an emissions bodge. In forum discussions the subject of fuel mapping and altered thermostats came up, and knowlegable people said that the stock engine management map had enough 'bandwidth' to compensate for 82°C. Low 70°s might be a stretch...probably an eye on fuel consumption increase might be in order. Thanks again.
Neil, thanks for the comment buddy,much appreciated. Its a great boost to hear someone is watching from so far away. I'm really pleased you liked the explanation, I quite enjoy explaining things 😊 Its pretty crazy that thermostat. I like the sputnik name :) I didn't realise about the old style thermostat mod, that's very clever, I didn't notice this feature still being on my inlet manifold but then I wasn't looking for it at the time. This would be be a really neat way of sorting the cooling if its possible. I dont know for sure that this thermostat arrangement was for emissions I'm just speculating, I'm not authority on these engines but I bet that's the reason for the madness. I too was concerned about the running temperature being too low, and was preparing to have to swap it out for a higher temperature stat, but it has worked really well. The obd reader I have shows the engine to be very steady at around 80 degrees (iirc), so I'm really happy with that cool state I put in. See the last discovery video I think its called conclusions, I talk a bit more about the results of tge engine rebuild including the temperature. Thanks again
@@MarcoMeda-g1w Hi, thanks for the comment, the bleed screw on the top hose is still there. I don't think I actually used it though, I believe I pulled the hose just slightly off the thermostat to get the air out.... bit I was a while ago :)
Great vid I put a grey thermostat in my V8 D2 facelift not sure of temp it is but it went from 96 degrees to 85 degrees a massive difference as I use a ultra gauge and got the oil cooler sorted thanks again
Hi Bobby. Its still working well. Yes two has worked. Honestly one 3mm hole would be fine, it needs so little flow. Just enough to get the warming coolant up there
@@Bobby82568 sounds good. Honestly after studying the factory setup, it seems about the best thing you can do for these engines. Good work my friend, get it all sorted and you'll have a more reliable car for it.
Wow!!!! Well it certainly gives the engine a better chance at 42c.... but I've no experience at -÷5 with engines... Do.you have a discovery? And does it work at -35
@@lozl haha looks oks like I need to replace the o2 sensors and I’m leaking rad fluid near the overflow. Which was replaced. No matter what, I love it for going to cottage as well as showing up at the various military bases I need to attend.
I'm pretty sure it was this one. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325497271005?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=gRLtOZl9TLS&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=1ulWKH4OQeK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY You'll need to measure the hose to pick the right size. I. Afraid I forget which size I picked.
Thanks for your kind comments. Its perfect. It behaves really well. I did a 4 hour journey towing 2.3 tons and it never went over 80 deg C it's fantastic
@@lozl great, thanks for feedback :) when towing heavy stuff watch out for transmision overheating - better use manual mode - checked with temp gauge, not everyone know about it
Yeah if its the same routing you can definitely do that. I know the TD5 thermostat is slightly cooler than the v8 one, but not by much, and that plumbing arrangement is still really daft. I'm not sure the yd5 has the same issues if it gets hit as the v8 does, but I would probably be doing the same modification if I had a td5. Thanks for the comment, much appreciated.
Mister B. I have spent some time looking but I'm afraid I'm not able to identify it. I have had a couple of Vauxhall Omega MV6 engines in the past, it has probably come from one of these but I'm unable to find that particular shape online after a good search. I'm really sorry I can't be more help. I would suggest getting an idea of the shape you need and have a wonder around a scrap yard and take a few options home. If I can see a number on it when I get home I will let you know. Thanks for the comment.
No worries, thank you for looking though I really do appreciate it. I’m sure I can find something that will work, btw thank you for posting this video as it was really helpful.
Hmm I assume the engine is tuned properly. Do you have the correct coolant, it only lasts about 30 months then it become acidic and needs to be changed. Are you using the correct oil, flat tappers need zinc in the oil 20/40 not synthetic. Do the 2 fans work, one is the clutch or viscous fan the other is the condenser fan, it’s behind the grill. If it is not working then the engine will over heat. All of thing things must be correct. My truck run at 189 F on a 30 C day in the driveway
@@murraylynn-tp8vm Hi Murray, thanks for the comment. So many questions. Yes it's all ship shape, I don't believe it has ever overheated luckily. This video is all about making it a bit more sensible. I tow a very heavy load with it and I want to feel confident that it can pull up a very steep hill indefinitely on a very hot day. This is something I now feel confident it could do (and it has done). I would however be worrying a lot with the original setup. The coolant specified for this model is g13 (I think its 13...) and last 5 years or so I believe. I did start and bed in the engine with high zinc oil but have now switched to no zinc as per spec for this model. A shame really I would way prefer to have the high zinc oil in but its not good for CATs and lambda sensors. I did repare the AC fan but I believe this isn't used until the AC is switched on.
It all makes sense now, I can't believe how hot it runs even on the td5 stat I thought would help, insane routing, so is a td5 the same? It's the same stat body.
Hi Alto, thanks for the comment. I wouldn't like the say for certain as I have never worked on a TD5. I understand tge td5 stat is slightly cooler but I think the routing the same. You can confirm it by following the routing you have and see if circulates like the V8
I bought it from ebay. I've just had a look and I canr find the one I bought anymore, but there are several other options available. Thanks for the comment, much appreciated. Glad the video is helpful for other people.
@@lozl Thanks for checking. The most helpful part of your video was the explanation of normal cooling system vs the Land Rover. I can't help to wonder why on earth they designed it that way, what's the purpose of it?
@@x-man4702 I can only speculate, but I imagine it was a cheap way of getting an old engine to meet modern emission legislation. Seems so crazy though when they were aware of the block cracking issues and weren't really doing anything about that other than selecting good blocks and holding back the worst ones
On 7:48 you mentioned that the thermostat will never come in contact with the warmer water on the other side and that you will drill holes, why not invert the thermostat housing?
@@x-man4702 it's already inverted. It already has the temperature sensitive side of the thermostat facing the engine. The problem in this case is that with no holes, the pipe is perfectly sealed shut, nothing can flow at all. So the engine gets hot at the entire pipe stays cold, so even though the thermostat is facing the engine it still won't open as the whole pipe will stay cold. Its not necessary in most normal thermostat arrangements because the thermostat is actually mounted in the head not half way down a pipe. Does that answer your question.?
Good Day Loz thank you for your great video 🤝👍😎 , very happy for you well done 👍, mate could you please send me from where u buy this inline thermostat 😊😉 thank u again Cheers Matt
Matt, thanks for your kind comments. Really glad you're enjoying the videos. I got mine from ebay and I'm afraid I can't the same one on ebay now. But I have found it on a website else where. I believe this is the one I have: www.specialist-components.co.uk/index.php/shop/engine-management/engine-managemennt-accessories/universal-billet-inline-thermostat-housing.html
@@lozl Thank you sooooo much Loz , mate I’ll get it soon for my both Discos V8 Thor and Td5 it should be same thing I’ll do my homework 😅😉👍🙏 Man thank again Keep up best video, cheers Matt 😉👋
You have just explained why my modded inline thermo causes my motor to heat up to96 before the thermo is fully open, until it gradually reaches equilibrium At 83deg c
Thanks Murray, I ended up getting a set of new old stock tappets that solved the problem. IT was such a nightmare as I just didn't expect a tappet problem having bought AE tappets, I was looking for everything but a tappet problem. But after a lot of wasted time the new old stock parts worked.
So I bought the inline thermostat kit made by that one company and it's awesome my only has one weep hole on it but it seems to work great. In 70s weather is 178-180 in 80s 180-183, 90s 185, 100s 198-201 AC on. max
Thats fantastic. Its quite a rewarding mod isn't it. It makes you wonder what they were thinking..... the plumbing is simpler, the parts would have been cheaper for then to make and the engines would have failed less.......
@@lozlyou know I was watching your video again just for fun and really why the heck did they make the original thermostat Downstream of the radiator shouldn't be encountering hot water straight from the engine to decide whether not to open not cool down water after the radiator? Bad enough to bypass so big and could get stuck open or even if it does shut it gets stuck in bypass hose just sitting there and has to reverse Direction
@@ronaldrrootiii6040 I totally agree. It's completely mental. I woild love to have been there when they came up with this "genius idea" how did it get past management,
@@lozl LOL exactly! And I've had Landover guys on the Facebook page try to defend it and I'm like dude seriously? It's because some of them just barely work decent but still at too high of a temperature doesn't mean it's actually a good design it just doesn't make sense no matter how you look at it. I mean if they put a front drive shaft with no grease ports are you going to defend that too?? So I've heard that a Lotus has a three-way thermostat is what they're calling it and they experienced overheating also.
There's a guy who sells kits in the US that are around $90 USD , housing, thermostat and gaskets included. I see you're using the $60 USD inline housing. However I think I've found an even cheaper way of doing this with 2 housings that I'll be butting up against each other squishing the thermostat in place. I plan on making a video, but thank you so much for explaining the science behind it
Trei, thats fantastic what a great idea. Thanks for comment, I've pinned it!
Do you have a link please?
Just found your comment, can you forward this guys info🇨🇦
@@Secker9did you get an answer 🇨🇦
@@shanecrawford6023 no mate.
By far and away the best explanation of the thermostat change and how it affects flow. Amazing job with the diagrams!
You are too kind. Thank you so much. I'm glad to be of help.
Its a pretty crazy setup, I've never seen anything like it until I owned this discovery
I read somewhere that the original thermostat arrangement only allowed a maximum hot/cold water mix of 15 or 20 percent which was done to aid quicker warm up and made the engine run hotter. I recently bought a thermostat conversion kit from megasquirt v8 that contains everything needed to put the thermostat back into the inlet manifold where it belongs. It's not cheap but it is worth every penny. I've got a Disco2 Thor engine in my SD1 and it dropped the engine temperature down from 95 degrees plus down to 86 degrees and it stays there.
The only problem is that you can't have the aircon compressor but other than that it's a great bit of kit.
That sounds very cool indeed! God knows the Thor had its problems but in many ways its the best of them, the plenum is much better arrangement than the older engines.
That sounds like an excellent conversion, I bet that's fantastic.
I had an SD1 on my Rolling Road the other day, a 4.3 with TVR heads, inlet and throttle body. Sounds ded lovely with the exhaust headers too.
Is your SD1 online anywhere??
Hey Loz L, love all your videos,I recently did a top end rebuild, Inline Thermo, various other things, your videos helped me so much Cheers!
I love comments like this. Many thanks for taking the time Trevor much appreciated.
Its very satisfying knowing you've protected your motor with this simple mod right.
Happy motoring
I also love the coil pack relocation. Such a great idea and if you ground it properly with a nice table and get it secured well it is so awesome because I had to change the coil already since the overpriced kit came with cheap ones and it was so easy right away I just checked all the wires one was a little burnt then the misfire switched to another cylinder of the same coil so I just swapped out the coil pack and boom it was fixed. I realized if somebody wants to do this upgrade they can avoid taking the manifold off just by abandoning the old coil packs behind the engine and using a long skinny funky tool to disconnect. Harness plugs from the original coils on to the harness extensions. Now you might have to remove Sai tubes from the back but that's no big deal. Otherwise you can leave the manifold on just run the extensions
Hmmmm, this sounds like a very good idea indeed! I hate where its located. Its a horrendous position and a nightmare to do anything with it. Its a nightmare just to put leads on, the leads are not happy being routed behind the heads too. Now you say it, I wish I had done this when I was messing around with the engine.....
The second I have any problems with any of it, I will change the arrangement.
Where exactly did you put yours? I've found it all a big tight directly in front of the engine?
@@lozl well I found a kid and it was way too expensive I wish I had used the second kid that I found later but I found a kit that runs to extension harnesses from behind over to near the alternator and it comes with a bracket that hooks to the alternator and it makes it sit between the alternator and the factory tire jack in that open area it's pretty cool. I think if you Google it you can find like it for cheaper that actually utilizes your upper plenum bolts and it holds a little bracket right there and then your coil packs go right under the hood in the upper plenum area where there's a little bit of space between the runners. That one utilizes Factory like plug wires mine can't with some really expensive custom cut ones that were super long on one side
extinctmotorsports.com/land-rover-thor-v8-coil-pack-relocation-kit/
If not I hook yet I believe you can just get wiring harness extensions and then come up with your own little metal bracket or something
@@ronaldrrootiii6040 cool thanks for the info. I will have q look when the time comes. I think our arrangement under the bonnet might be slightly different as mine is right hand drive. But I'm sure I can find somewhere.
Oh yeah I've just seen the on top of plenum kit using same plug kesds that's a good money saver for sure not having special leads made. Up.
As you might have seen I'm making a mobile rolling road and this is the reason for the discovery, to pull this heavy thing around. We will try a year of making money and if 2024 goes well we will invest a bit more money in the discovery. This coil relocation will defiantly be on the list.
@@lozl oh okay yeah that's cool I see that! Good luck on it too
Great vid Loz...first compehensible explanation of how the 'sputnik' functions. I have a p38 V8 in Australia and the underbonnet temperature shocked me when I first got it. Standard issue T/stat here was 87°C, soon replaced by repairers with the Gates 82° sputnik. In p38 forums, I have seen talk of placing a 'naked' stat in an apparently existing recess (in the valley?... poss. left over from the Classic RR) but not enough detail explained. Your vid, with the details about drilling bypass holes, and the link to the inline adaptor have given me the confidence to do this mod. I was just about to shell out for a new sputnik...saved! I also guessed then the OEM running temperature might have been an emissions bodge. In forum discussions the subject of fuel mapping and altered thermostats came up, and knowlegable people said that the stock engine management map had enough 'bandwidth' to compensate for 82°C. Low 70°s might be a stretch...probably an eye on fuel consumption increase might be in order. Thanks again.
Neil, thanks for the comment buddy,much appreciated. Its a great boost to hear someone is watching from so far away.
I'm really pleased you liked the explanation, I quite enjoy explaining things 😊
Its pretty crazy that thermostat. I like the sputnik name :) I didn't realise about the old style thermostat mod, that's very clever, I didn't notice this feature still being on my inlet manifold but then I wasn't looking for it at the time. This would be be a really neat way of sorting the cooling if its possible.
I dont know for sure that this thermostat arrangement was for emissions I'm just speculating, I'm not authority on these engines but I bet that's the reason for the madness.
I too was concerned about the running temperature being too low, and was preparing to have to swap it out for a higher temperature stat, but it has worked really well. The obd reader I have shows the engine to be very steady at around 80 degrees (iirc), so I'm really happy with that cool state I put in.
See the last discovery video I think its called conclusions, I talk a bit more about the results of tge engine rebuild including the temperature.
Thanks again
I have a question on the bleed screw ? How do you get the air out ?
@@MarcoMeda-g1w Hi, thanks for the comment, the bleed screw on the top hose is still there. I don't think I actually used it though, I believe I pulled the hose just slightly off the thermostat to get the air out.... bit I was a while ago :)
Great vid I put a grey thermostat in my V8 D2 facelift not sure of temp it is but it went from 96 degrees to 85 degrees a massive difference as I use a ultra gauge and got the oil cooler sorted thanks again
Excellent work! I wasn't going to do anything with but the more I looked I to it the more I realised it was a no brainer. I guess you did the same :)
Hello again 👋🏻. How is that thermostat holding up? Was only the 2 holes drilled in the thermostat sufficient?
Hi Bobby. Its still working well. Yes two has worked. Honestly one 3mm hole would be fine, it needs so little flow. Just enough to get the warming coolant up there
@@lozl that’s great, I’m currently working on doing an electric fan conversion and in line thermostat on mine. Hopefully all goes well 👍🏻, thanks
@@Bobby82568 sounds good. Honestly after studying the factory setup, it seems about the best thing you can do for these engines. Good work my friend, get it all sorted and you'll have a more reliable car for it.
Great mod! What about the bleeder screw? As I understand it, it’s been deleted?
Thanks for the comment. The bleed screw in the top hose is still there, you can see it at 12:50
Thanks! I truly appreciate all your Discovery vids.
So.
Incredibly.
Helpful!!
Thats very kind. Many thanks. I'm so glad they're being enjoyed
Great vid!! You are Always good at explain the in-depth stuff so I can understand! 😂👍
Thanks buddy that's much appreciated :)
So would this work here in Canada at -35c during winter, additionally this summer we reached 42c🇨🇦
Wow!!!! Well it certainly gives the engine a better chance at 42c.... but I've no experience at -÷5 with engines...
Do.you have a discovery? And does it work at -35
@@lozl I have discovery 2 v8. Dumped 15 thousand last year into her with only 235 thousand km
@@shanecrawford6023 nice!!! I bet its a sweet vehicle now
@@lozl haha looks oks like I need to replace the o2 sensors and I’m leaking rad fluid near the overflow. Which was replaced. No matter what, I love it for going to cottage as well as showing up at the various military bases I need to attend.
@@shanecrawford6023 sweet! Keep enjoying that thing. It constant isn't it. Always something to do to keep it going
Hi. Please can you advise where you purchased your in line thermostat holder.. I need to import one to south africa for my discovery 2.
I'm pretty sure it was this one.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325497271005?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=gRLtOZl9TLS&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=1ulWKH4OQeK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
You'll need to measure the hose to pick the right size. I. Afraid I forget which size I picked.
Hey, thanks for sharing this d2 cooling diagram. How does your mod work after this time?
Thanks for your kind comments. Its perfect. It behaves really well. I did a 4 hour journey towing 2.3 tons and it never went over 80 deg C it's fantastic
@@lozl great, thanks for feedback :) when towing heavy stuff watch out for transmision overheating - better use manual mode - checked with temp gauge, not everyone know about it
@@bigmike7239 super thanks Mike. That hadn't occurred to me, I'll have to keep an eye on it
Can I convert the Discovery 2 TD5 cooling system like the gasoline system, knowing that it is the same pipes and thermostats
Yeah if its the same routing you can definitely do that. I know the TD5 thermostat is slightly cooler than the v8 one, but not by much, and that plumbing arrangement is still really daft. I'm not sure the yd5 has the same issues if it gets hit as the v8 does, but I would probably be doing the same modification if I had a td5.
Thanks for the comment, much appreciated.
Have link where i can buy termostat housing like that ..
Thanks for the comment. It seems I've only just found a load of comments I haven't replied to...
Hello, would you happen to have the part# for the gm lower radiator hose?
Mister B. I have spent some time looking but I'm afraid I'm not able to identify it. I have had a couple of Vauxhall Omega MV6 engines in the past, it has probably come from one of these but I'm unable to find that particular shape online after a good search.
I'm really sorry I can't be more help. I would suggest getting an idea of the shape you need and have a wonder around a scrap yard and take a few options home.
If I can see a number on it when I get home I will let you know.
Thanks for the comment.
No worries, thank you for looking though I really do appreciate it. I’m sure I can find something that will work, btw thank you for posting this video as it was really helpful.
@@Bobby82568 now worries. I'm chuffed it can be of help
Hmm I assume the engine is tuned properly. Do you have the correct coolant, it only lasts about 30 months then it become acidic and needs to be changed. Are you using the correct oil, flat tappers need zinc in the oil 20/40 not synthetic. Do the 2 fans work, one is the clutch or viscous fan the other is the condenser fan, it’s behind the grill. If it is not working then the engine will over heat. All of thing things must be correct. My truck run at 189 F on a 30 C day in the driveway
@@murraylynn-tp8vm Hi Murray, thanks for the comment. So many questions. Yes it's all ship shape, I don't believe it has ever overheated luckily. This video is all about making it a bit more sensible. I tow a very heavy load with it and I want to feel confident that it can pull up a very steep hill indefinitely on a very hot day. This is something I now feel confident it could do (and it has done). I would however be worrying a lot with the original setup.
The coolant specified for this model is g13 (I think its 13...) and last 5 years or so I believe. I did start and bed in the engine with high zinc oil but have now switched to no zinc as per spec for this model. A shame really I would way prefer to have the high zinc oil in but its not good for CATs and lambda sensors.
I did repare the AC fan but I believe this isn't used until the AC is switched on.
It all makes sense now, I can't believe how hot it runs even on the td5 stat I thought would help, insane routing, so is a td5 the same? It's the same stat body.
Hi Alto, thanks for the comment. I wouldn't like the say for certain as I have never worked on a TD5. I understand tge td5 stat is slightly cooler but I think the routing the same. You can confirm it by following the routing you have and see if circulates like the V8
Very good video, thanks for sharing. Quick question: where did you buy the inline thermostat?
I bought it from ebay. I've just had a look and I canr find the one I bought anymore, but there are several other options available.
Thanks for the comment, much appreciated. Glad the video is helpful for other people.
@@lozl
Thanks for checking. The most helpful part of your video was the explanation of normal cooling system vs the Land Rover. I can't help to wonder why on earth they designed it that way, what's the purpose of it?
@@x-man4702 I can only speculate, but I imagine it was a cheap way of getting an old engine to meet modern emission legislation.
Seems so crazy though when they were aware of the block cracking issues and weren't really doing anything about that other than selecting good blocks and holding back the worst ones
On 7:48 you mentioned that the thermostat will never come in contact with the warmer water on the other side and that you will drill holes, why not invert the thermostat housing?
@@x-man4702 it's already inverted. It already has the temperature sensitive side of the thermostat facing the engine. The problem in this case is that with no holes, the pipe is perfectly sealed shut, nothing can flow at all. So the engine gets hot at the entire pipe stays cold, so even though the thermostat is facing the engine it still won't open as the whole pipe will stay cold.
Its not necessary in most normal thermostat arrangements because the thermostat is actually mounted in the head not half way down a pipe.
Does that answer your question.?
Good Day Loz thank you for your great video 🤝👍😎 , very happy for you well done 👍, mate could you please send me from where u buy this inline thermostat 😊😉 thank u again Cheers Matt
Matt, thanks for your kind comments. Really glad you're enjoying the videos.
I got mine from ebay and I'm afraid I can't the same one on ebay now. But I have found it on a website else where. I believe this is the one I have:
www.specialist-components.co.uk/index.php/shop/engine-management/engine-managemennt-accessories/universal-billet-inline-thermostat-housing.html
I forget the size now, either 33 or 38mm, but this is easily measured. And I believe I went for the 75 degree thermostat
@@lozl
Thank you sooooo much Loz , mate I’ll get it soon for my both Discos V8 Thor and Td5 it should be same thing I’ll do my homework 😅😉👍🙏
Man thank again Keep up best video, cheers Matt 😉👋
@@matthapaq9618 Glad to help, thanks again Matt. All the best with your two
You have just explained why my modded inline thermo causes my motor to heat up to96 before the thermo is fully open, until it gradually reaches equilibrium At 83deg c
@@adda58 glad to help. Is it a case if drilling some holes???
Excellent thankyou
Glad i could help. Many thanks for the comment
How to turn off Land Rover Discovery 2 4.0 V8 Immobilizer
I'm afraid I done know about that. Good luck
Hmmm. Originally GM engine, sold to Land Rover, bought by Ford. If the tick problem is tappits there might be Ford or GM tappits that are better.
Thanks Murray, I ended up getting a set of new old stock tappets that solved the problem. IT was such a nightmare as I just didn't expect a tappet problem having bought AE tappets, I was looking for everything but a tappet problem. But after a lot of wasted time the new old stock parts worked.
So I bought the inline thermostat kit made by that one company and it's awesome my only has one weep hole on it but it seems to work great. In 70s weather is 178-180 in 80s 180-183, 90s 185, 100s 198-201 AC on. max
Thats fantastic. Its quite a rewarding mod isn't it.
It makes you wonder what they were thinking..... the plumbing is simpler, the parts would have been cheaper for then to make and the engines would have failed less.......
@@lozl I have no idea it's crazy
@@lozlyou know I was watching your video again just for fun and really why the heck did they make the original thermostat Downstream of the radiator shouldn't be encountering hot water straight from the engine to decide whether not to open not cool down water after the radiator? Bad enough to bypass so big and could get stuck open or even if it does shut it gets stuck in bypass hose just sitting there and has to reverse Direction
@@ronaldrrootiii6040 I totally agree. It's completely mental. I woild love to have been there when they came up with this "genius idea" how did it get past management,
@@lozl LOL exactly! And I've had Landover guys on the Facebook page try to defend it and I'm like dude seriously? It's because some of them just barely work decent but still at too high of a temperature doesn't mean it's actually a good design it just doesn't make sense no matter how you look at it. I mean if they put a front drive shaft with no grease ports are you going to defend that too?? So I've heard that a Lotus has a three-way thermostat is what they're calling it and they experienced overheating also.