I took note of the substantial base that you built before you positioned the wardrobe. A solution you may not have considered for extra storage at floor level (I've seen this in kitchens exploiting unused space at kick board level) that space could have accommodated kick board drawers (push activation, no handles) shallow enough to accommodate shoes freeing up in-wardrobe storage. So that's 3 drawers you could have inserted sourced from the kitchen range. I'm about to build 2 wardrobes and very attentive to innovative solutions. I appreciate your step by step approach.
Little tip for calking, use a calking gun and fill then with a baby wipe before it dries wipe excess off, result no sanding ... I used this method for exact same moulding on my walls. Great job looks beautiful.
WOW this turned out fab and looks AMAZING ! As an FYI I had the same height issue with my modern build apartment i.e. ceiling height of about 235 so my carpenter took 2cm off the bottom off the bottom of the wardrobes (the plinth) then built them standing up and secured them at the back to the walls. I had 3x 100cm units and the whole process took 2 hrs between carpenter and his mate. Fits perfectly and gives me the extra storage space as I have added shelves at the top of the wardrobe for out of season clothes. 😊
But then I wouldn’t have the look I wanted my simply cutting off 2cm? I needed the shorter units to have a big gap top and bottom to add skirting and coving ?
Absolutely brilliant. Thank you for sharing what you’ve done. Love that you haven’t got a room full of tools 👍🏻👍🏻 I would love to do something like this.
That is very grand- classic clean look. I'm inclined to copy that for my new relocated closet. I turned my closet into a bathroom, just a toilet & sink.... extras like wall safe behind picture and lighted mirror.
Quality that Kirsty belter job in my next house am 💯 doing this I tried to do the BnQ veneered wardrobe sheets look okay for like £200-300 I was getting quoted of wardrobe company’s £2-3k I think I’ve been to ikea once in my life but am going to be all over that well done 👏🏻 Oh and them cracks in the wall to fix there easy just use a Stanley knife and rake out the crack in the same pattern then put skrim tape over it it’s what plasters use to join boards or fix cracks then fill it about 1inch past the tape sand and paint it will never come back 😊
Awe😂some job Kirsty! Youve got a great finish there. Filling, sanding, caulking is so important to get that fully fitted look. Truly, one of the best Ikea projects Ive seen. ❤
Now aday alot builders using ikea pax wardrobe to do like built-in wardrobe . We install tone of ikea pax wardrobe for builders. And build frames around it. Your diy look great
Great video. I have been looking at re doing our primary bedroom reach in close with PAX minus the doors because we have nice sliding doors already. This helped because I will have some spots where I will need to put fillers in like you did.
Superb job - great inspiration. One thought - you had a block and spirit level to get the consistent height and gaps for the door trim, handles etc. I've recently picked up a laser level (about £20 off Amazon) and it's much less fiddly than my spirit level.
Yes. The inside is off white so looks like it matches. The brown MDF frame needed to be painted so in order for the frame to match the doors it all had to be painted. These doors have a grey tinge.
Great video, impressive work! The links are inactive. Could you refresh them please. I am interested in the coving link and the mitre block link thanks
Lovely work! Looks great. A very detailed job which is so helpful but how did you get the side panels flush without the doors being problematic to open? Did you have to adjust the hinges to stop the doors from binding?
question for the floor: Is there a reason to not prime & paint the doors, attach moulding etc. before standing them up and attaching everything? I thought that would make more sense but maybe there's a reason? I'm planning on doing a similar project this year, so I'd love the advice :)
You could do it that way if you wanted to. I personally find it easier to paint etc when it’s all in place. I go into a lot more about painting options in my handbook.
Wow! What a wonderful job. Thank you for all the info. I definitely need to try this with ours. Could you tell me how you actually screwed the side and top battons into the wall and ceiling please? Did you screw through the cabinet??
Did you use the komplement hinges or different ones for the doors? I wanted the flush look with my doors and side trim, but the doors hit the trim when opening.
I use ikea hinges yes. If you overlap the frame it will hit. I have the trim right up to the outside frame and it’s fine. The doors open inwards with these hinges.
Gosh, this is exactly i wish i knew how to do it ! I need a place where to put all the stuff in a flat where there is no place to hide stuff nor clothes ... i am amazed , you must be used to DIY ..i am scared to buy the IKEA pieces and be unable to complete it or screw it up big time ..with all the tools and additional wood / panel pieces what was roughly the total cost please ? I am sorry what is a "primer" for paint?.WELL DONE ! it looks so nice and elegant, very impressive ..so happy to have discovered your video
I had the tools already. Only really used a drill & electric saw ( you could use a manual saw) as I got B&Q to cut all my wood. Price breakdown is in the description. Building IKEA furniture is very easy.
Primer is like a sticky paint. It binds to the surface and gives the white paint a better surface to stick to. It is also better for hiding small defects, can be sanded to make a really smooth surface.
Thank you for documenting your build - looks gorgeous! This might be a silly ques but wondering if the 6mm Mdf plank will sink where it is hollow below?
I don’t really understand hollow below? All the MDF is screwed on very securely to the wood behind it. If you mean the bottom? It’s screwed to the wood behind then nail gunned when the skirting was added ?
Beautiful work and great explanations!😍 I love the flush and built-in look. But, if you put the MDF flush next to the doors, don't the doors briefly get slightly wider than the carcass when opening and hit the MDF? I see that apparently it worked for you but I'm unsure how.
No, because the doors open without going outwards. They almost curve in and out. The frames make no difference to the opening of the doors as if you put pax next to each other the frames are flush with the doors.
@@kirstygriffiths749I love your work and well done. I have similar questions and I am concerned that the MDF will hinder the movement of the door for drawers to flow easily. Can you please advise if the doors will open wider if the MDF panels are not fixed?
Hey Kristy, Thanks a lot for this video. I need to copy this for my new apartment. I have 2 questions, and it would be awesome to get your feedback on them: 1.) The IKEA doors are 18mm thick, and at 6:30, you wrote that you used 38mm MDF. Is there a particular reason for that? 2.) The gap between the doors. First, you said there was a 5cm gap at 2:54. Later, you mentioned using 1.5cm wood for the gaps at 7:00. Maybe I mixed things up. Thanks a lot in advance!
im in the process of purchasing and doing something similar but have no idea where to start, yours looks amazing and his video was super helpful thank you for posting it! Also I read somewhere on Ikea you should screw it into the walls it this important? I can't recall if you did or not or if it would make a difference
Fantastic work. We had Sharpes round last week to quote for changing our 4th bedroom into a walk in wardrobe. They came back with an £18k quote 😂. Definitely doing something similar to what youve done, only question would be did you ever consider trimming the Pax taller units down to maximize space? Thats what im considering
Amazing job! Could you please share where you screwed the batons on either side of the wardrobe (your frame) into? Was it the walls or the ceiling? Thanks x
Hi Kirsty, looks so great, you did a brilliant job! I was wondering if you could tell me roughly the measurements of your moulding/panelling details on your doors? Really love the look and proportion of yours! 😍
Hi Kirsty, amazing video of your fabulous wardrobe! You’ve inspired me to do one for my bedroom. However, I’ve got carpet for flooring. Do you reckon I will have to cut the carpet before I place the wood platform?
hi! absolutely love the vids. can i ask why you left the small gap between each pax item? could they not have been directly attached together? when i look at them as a package of 3 together online, is says width of 300cm. would it need to be slightly more then if i used the gaps like you?
@@kirstygriffiths749sorry one last thing. you mentioned in between your wardrobes that you used 5cm pieces, yet your drawing said 1.5cm pieces. was it the smaller? and finally how did you attach those? where did you screw them in? i’m giving mine a go tomorrow!
Hi Kirsty, thanks for creating this and sharing your hard work. I’m about the try this but was wondering why you put wood in between the wardrobes rather than attaching them directly onto each other? I wasn’t planning to add wood between but dont want to create a problem later. Thanks!
yes, doors i used were 1.9mm. You can use any size, just depends where you put the wood behind it. On my new PAX hallway video I used 9mm and brought the frame behind forward to save money.
Hi, why the small (5cm) gap between? Is it to allow room if the door starts to droop (my wardrobe door droops). I want to attempt this & use a mirror door which is heavier so I think I will leave a gap too.
Because without it it would not look like fitted wardrobes. If you just stack pax wardobes next to each other you won’t get the look of fitted wardobes. The doors won’t droop.
Could you possibly answer a few questions for me please thinking of gett8ng some of the pax wardrobes but a. It unsure a few people have told me they can't handle lots of cloths and stuff and that the floor and sheoves and rails start to bow and bend after a whil3 is thus true
No. IKEA would never sell millions each year if they couldn’t handle clothes. If people don’t build them properly or secure to the wall…. My wardrobes are solid as a rock.
Because It would not have fitted. My height was 235. Also, I wouldn’t have been able to add coving at the top or skirting along the bottom? So basically It would have looked like a standard Pax with no detail
@@kirstygriffiths749 would you mind giving the measurement of them? Following the link in the description, the largest they offer is 458mm and that seems a bit large! But they look perfect on yours! So I just want to make sure I get the right size!
Hi Kristy, thanks for your sharing. I want to follow your method to build in a wardrobe. my bedroom’s ceiling is 256cm, do you recommend to buy the pax with height 236cm on top of a diy 2x4 plinth?
Good work ! I'm a carpenter by trade, and I'm impressed 🙂
What does mean carpenter by trade? English is not my mother language.
@@mrki412 that it's his professional job
@@mrki412it means they do carpentry for their job.
Wow lady, you're a pro. You 've really inspired me to do the same. It came out very beautiful and luxurious.
Awesome! Thank you!
I took note of the substantial base that you built before you positioned the wardrobe.
A solution you may not have considered for extra storage at floor level (I've seen this in kitchens exploiting unused space at kick board level) that space could have accommodated kick board drawers (push activation, no handles) shallow enough to accommodate shoes freeing up in-wardrobe storage. So that's 3 drawers you could have inserted sourced from the kitchen range. I'm about to build 2 wardrobes and very attentive to innovative solutions. I appreciate your step by step approach.
She could still cut out 3 x insert kickboard drawers from the base.
Or install a removable panel at the base of each wardrobe and use the space to hide valuables.
Hi. How do you fit the drawers? It sounds like a great idea.
After you putting the doors I was like: really good stuff, now it's ready to use. Then I realized that it was the beginning of the video)
You could have just painted it white and keep it plain. I wanted to add detail.
@@kirstygriffiths749, yeah, the final version is piece of art.
Little tip for calking, use a calking gun and fill then with a baby wipe before it dries wipe excess off, result no sanding ... I used this method for exact same moulding on my walls.
Great job looks beautiful.
Such a great tip ! Thanks for sharing
WOW this turned out fab and looks AMAZING !
As an FYI I had the same height issue with my modern build apartment i.e. ceiling height of about 235 so my carpenter took 2cm off the bottom off the bottom of the wardrobes (the plinth) then built them standing up and secured them at the back to the walls. I had 3x 100cm units and the whole process took 2 hrs between carpenter and his mate.
Fits perfectly and gives me the extra storage space as I have added shelves at the top of the wardrobe for out of season clothes. 😊
But then I wouldn’t have the look I wanted my simply cutting off 2cm? I needed the shorter units to have a big gap top and bottom to add skirting and coving ?
You did a beautiful job with this! I hope you don't ever need to pull it out!
Maybe in 50 years. The old ones were in place for that length of time.
Very impressive. I love how you dressed them up with the mouldings and the golden handles.
I’m hooked on your videos now. Just moved house so everything needs doing. Thank you Kirsty
Absolutely brilliant. Thank you for sharing what you’ve done. Love that you haven’t got a room full of tools 👍🏻👍🏻 I would love to do something like this.
Thanks. I’m actually building myself a small tool cupboard so I can get a few more bits 🙌🏻
That is very grand- classic clean look. I'm inclined to copy that for my new relocated closet. I turned my closet into a bathroom, just a toilet & sink.... extras like wall safe behind picture and lighted mirror.
Love, love, love THIS!!
Thank you
Quality that Kirsty belter job in my next house am 💯 doing this
I tried to do the BnQ veneered wardrobe sheets look okay for like £200-300 I was getting quoted of wardrobe company’s £2-3k I think I’ve been to ikea once in my life but am going to be all over that well done 👏🏻
Oh and them cracks in the wall to fix there easy just use a Stanley knife and rake out the crack in the same pattern then put skrim tape over it it’s what plasters use to join boards or fix cracks then fill it about 1inch past the tape sand and paint it will never come back 😊
Awe😂some job Kirsty! Youve got a great finish there. Filling, sanding, caulking is so important to get that fully fitted look. Truly, one of the best Ikea projects Ive seen. ❤
Now aday alot builders using ikea pax wardrobe to do like built-in wardrobe . We install tone of ikea pax wardrobe for builders. And build frames around it.
Your diy look great
Fantastic job 👊🏾👊🏾 panilling and handles 👌🏽👌🏽
Thank you 🙏
Bedankt
Very beautifully done
Thank you! Cheers!
Woooow!! You did an AMAZING job! 👏 🎉
this look beautiful
Thank you
Great job, really beautifully done
Thank you
Amazing job, really, really beautiful!!
Amazing you did awesome job 👏👏👏👏👏🥰
Thank you 🤗
Omg you are so talented 😮❤❤❤
Thank you so much ❤️🙏
Very nice
Great work! For the sake of symmetry I would add an extra faux handle on the other side of the door in the middle
Then I’d have two random single handles. Not for me.
Very impressive!
Thank you 🙏
@@kirstygriffiths749 I really admire your attention to detail and patience. I'm completely inspired to give this a go
Great video. I have been looking at re doing our primary bedroom reach in close with PAX minus the doors because we have nice sliding doors already. This helped because I will have some spots where I will need to put fillers in like you did.
Fab. Glad I could help.
Superb job - great inspiration.
One thought - you had a block and spirit level to get the consistent height and gaps for the door trim, handles etc. I've recently picked up a laser level (about £20 off Amazon) and it's much less fiddly than my spirit level.
Looks amazing!
Honestly amazing, love this! Off to ikea tomorrow !!
Have fun!
Very nice!
Thank you ❤️
Done a good job and very detailed explanation, want to attempt mine soon😅
Go for it!
Love this, u done amazing❤. So you only ended up painting the doors on the outside? So everything matches when looking from outside.
Yes. The inside is off white so looks like it matches. The brown MDF frame needed to be painted so in order for the frame to match the doors it all had to be painted. These doors have a grey tinge.
That's amazing
Thank you
Well done, looks great
Many thanks!
Love this ❤
Great job they look fabulous xx
Thanks so much 😊
Looks amazing, love it! Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
really nice job, thanks for sharing! Gave me some helpful tips with the platform/base hidden by moulding
you're welcome
Amazing!
Great video, impressive work! The links are inactive. Could you refresh them please. I am interested in the coving link and the mitre block link thanks
Amazing! ❤
Thank you! 😄
Beautiful, thanks for sharing. I would love to do this also.
Love this guide, so helpful!
Please can you update the URL for the MDF base wood as its currently pointing to paint, thanks!
Looks amazing! ❣️ Thanks for sharing! 💯
My pleasure 😊
GREAT INFO!!!! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Wow looks brilliant well done! 😍👏🏻👏🏻
thank you !!
Super job !
Thank you 🙏
I will doing this later in the summer better than spending all your money for expensive ones 😊
100% 🙏❤️
Amazing ❤
What size are the handles. Fantastic job indeed
amazing idea and work!
Brilliant!
thank you
Hi this is such a helpful video!! Just wondering how you got the MDF at the top to hold
Lovely work! Looks great. A very detailed job which is so helpful but how did you get the side panels flush without the doors being problematic to open? Did you have to adjust the hinges to stop the doors from binding?
The doors open in an inwards motion. You can add a frame flush with the side of the pax. No issue.
Wow, looks amazing. I wouldn’t say that’s a simple project though. I would subscribe 10 times if I could because you deserve it.
Nice
Amazing work 😊
Thank you
question for the floor: Is there a reason to not prime & paint the doors, attach moulding etc. before standing them up and attaching everything? I thought that would make more sense but maybe there's a reason? I'm planning on doing a similar project this year, so I'd love the advice :)
You could do it that way if you wanted to. I personally find it easier to paint etc when it’s all in place. I go into a lot more about painting options in my handbook.
I need show it my kid. He love build ikea 😂Lego for adults
It really is !!
How inspiring! Remarkable job ❤
Thank you 🙏 I have a new pax video up now. I think they look better than these
Wow! What a wonderful job. Thank you for all the info. I definitely need to try this with ours.
Could you tell me how you actually screwed the side and top battons into the wall and ceiling please? Did you screw through the cabinet??
I screwed and used no more nails to the wall. I then screwed from inside the pax - into the wood frame.
Bellissimo lavoro, accuratissimo veramente ben fatto👏👏👏
Did you use the komplement hinges or different ones for the doors? I wanted the flush look with my doors and side trim, but the doors hit the trim when opening.
I use ikea hinges yes. If you overlap the frame it will hit. I have the trim right up to the outside frame and it’s fine. The doors open inwards with these hinges.
Gosh, this is exactly i wish i knew how to do it ! I need a place where to put all the stuff in a flat where there is no place to hide stuff nor clothes ... i am amazed , you must be used to DIY ..i am scared to buy the IKEA pieces and be unable to complete it or screw it up big time ..with all the tools and additional wood / panel pieces what was roughly the total cost please ? I am sorry what is a "primer" for paint?.WELL DONE ! it looks so nice and elegant, very impressive ..so happy to have discovered your video
I had the tools already. Only really used a drill & electric saw ( you could use a manual saw) as I got B&Q to cut all my wood. Price breakdown is in the description. Building IKEA furniture is very easy.
@@kirstygriffiths749 thank you ;-)
Primer is like a sticky paint. It binds to the surface and gives the white paint a better surface to stick to. It is also better for hiding small defects, can be sanded to make a really smooth surface.
@@alisonbailey8614 thank you. Your work is terrifc
Amazing 😊
Amazing 🤩
Thank you
Looks amazing. Did you prime and paint the entire door as they are already white?
Thank you for documenting your build - looks gorgeous! This might be a silly ques but wondering if the 6mm Mdf plank will sink where it is hollow below?
I don’t really understand hollow below? All the MDF is screwed on very securely to the wood behind it. If you mean the bottom? It’s screwed to the wood behind then nail gunned when the skirting was added ?
What kind of paint did you use on Ikea wardrobes did you use a base paint if doors are not wood???
Everything I used I show on the video and is linked in the description
Hi! What type of dulux paint did you use?
Me thinking there ws enough room top and bottom to put a row of draw on the bottom and the units on that rather then just the wood frame?
I suppose you could have. But you couldn’t have had the skirting at the bottom or the trim at the top ?
Beautiful work and great explanations!😍 I love the flush and built-in look. But, if you put the MDF flush next to the doors, don't the doors briefly get slightly wider than the carcass when opening and hit the MDF? I see that apparently it worked for you but I'm unsure how.
No, because the doors open without going outwards. They almost curve in and out. The frames make no difference to the opening of the doors as if you put pax next to each other the frames are flush with the doors.
@@kirstygriffiths749Ok, good to know! Thanks for replying! :)
@@kirstygriffiths749I love your work and well done. I have similar questions and I am concerned that the MDF will hinder the movement of the door for drawers to flow easily. Can you please advise if the doors will open wider if the MDF panels are not fixed?
How do you stick the base frames to the floor and wall and what did you use ?
Hey Kristy,
Thanks a lot for this video. I need to copy this for my new apartment. I have 2 questions, and it would be awesome to get your feedback on them:
1.) The IKEA doors are 18mm thick, and at 6:30, you wrote that you used 38mm MDF. Is there a particular reason for that?
2.) The gap between the doors. First, you said there was a 5cm gap at 2:54. Later, you mentioned using 1.5cm wood for the gaps at 7:00.
Maybe I mixed things up. Thanks a lot in advance!
I used 18mm , 38 was an error. The middle gap is 5cm - about 1.5 inches.
@@kirstygriffiths749 Thanks a lot!!!
How did you attach the pieces of wood to the top of the PAX units that you connected the MDF to?
I glued pine and screwed u thought the pax. I then attached the MDF.
How would you go about installing this on top of a carpet?
I’ve installed on top or carpet & cut out the carpet before. I think it really depends easier to fix / get level without the carpet.
im in the process of purchasing and doing something similar but have no idea where to start, yours looks amazing and his video was super helpful thank you for posting it! Also I read somewhere on Ikea you should screw it into the walls it this important? I can't recall if you did or not or if it would make a difference
Mine is attached at the back to the wall. You should always attach yes.
thank you! also could I ask which drill do you use? /im looking to buy one but not sure which if you have any recommendations @@kirstygriffiths749
Fantastic work. We had Sharpes round last week to quote for changing our 4th bedroom into a walk in wardrobe. They came back with an £18k quote 😂. Definitely doing something similar to what youve done, only question would be did you ever consider trimming the Pax taller units down to maximize space? Thats what im considering
That price doesn’t surprise me. No I didn’t. If I’d have done that I wouldn’t have been able to add skirting or coving to these wardrobes.
How do you attach the base to the wall if you keep the base boards or even not keeping them? Screw? Anchors?
You can do what ever you want. I screwed down to avoid damaging the skirting boards.
Hi, what spacing are the handles from the edge please?
Amazing job! Could you please share where you screwed the batons on either side of the wardrobe (your frame) into? Was it the walls or the ceiling? Thanks x
I screwed into the walls.
Hi Kirsty, looks so great, you did a brilliant job!
I was wondering if you could tell me roughly the measurements of your moulding/panelling details on your doors?
Really love the look and proportion of yours! 😍
The one I used is linked in the description box 👍
@@kirstygriffiths749 sorry I meant the measurement of how you placed it (Sorry, I worded that very poorly!!) ♥️
That’s in the video. She used a piece of 4x2 wood as a guide.
Hi Kirsty, amazing video of your fabulous wardrobe! You’ve inspired me to do one for my bedroom. However, I’ve got carpet for flooring. Do you reckon I will have to cut the carpet before I place the wood platform?
Personally I’d bull it back. Did that in my sons room. Put the carpet down and cut it round the wardrobe. Just felt it would be more level.
hi! absolutely love the vids. can i ask why you left the small gap between each pax item? could they not have been directly attached together? when i look at them as a package of 3 together online, is says width of 300cm. would it need to be slightly more then if i used the gaps like you?
Because, I wanted them to look like fitted wardrobes, not IKEA. You can put them next to each other but they will just look like pax.
amazing thanks! great work
@@kirstygriffiths749sorry one last thing. you mentioned in between your wardrobes that you used 5cm pieces, yet your drawing said 1.5cm pieces. was it the smaller? and finally how did you attach those? where did you screw them in?
i’m giving mine a go tomorrow!
This is amazing. I'm trying this today. The reinforcement bits... are they 54 cm or 52cm please?
52. Allowing the 4cm width of the wood.
Hi Kirsty, thanks for creating this and sharing your hard work. I’m about the try this but was wondering why you put wood in between the wardrobes rather than attaching them directly onto each other? I wasn’t planning to add wood between but dont want to create a problem later. Thanks!
Because with them butted up to each other I felt they would just look like IKEA wardrobes with random wood either side.
Did you prime and paint the whole door or just the trim? And if so aren’t the doors laminate? Was it laminate paint? Thx
The doors were all painted with a primer & undercoat. I then painted with white paint for wood. You need to prime the entire door, then you can paint.
Great video, 38mm! mdf to match the thickness of the doors??? Doors are only 19mm right??
yes, doors i used were 1.9mm. You can use any size, just depends where you put the wood behind it. On my new PAX hallway video I used 9mm and brought the frame behind forward to save money.
Nice! But I would have tried to use that space to put in a drawer unit at the bottom for shoe storage.
You can add shelves inside for shoes? I prefer to keep shoe’s in my downstairs hall storage. Outdoor shoes stacked in a bedroom gives me the ick
Did you screw or glue those wood blocks pieces above the wardrobes? Thanks! Looks great!
Both 👍
Good Work. Did you screw the base frame into the skirting boards?
The skirting boards were glued and pinned to the base board. I wouldn’t personally screw them in.
Hi, why the small (5cm) gap between? Is it to allow room if the door starts to droop (my wardrobe door droops). I want to attempt this & use a mirror door which is heavier so I think I will leave a gap too.
Because without it it would not look like fitted wardrobes. If you just stack pax wardobes next to each other you won’t get the look of fitted wardobes. The doors won’t droop.
Could you possibly answer a few questions for me please thinking of gett8ng some of the pax wardrobes but a. It unsure a few people have told me they can't handle lots of cloths and stuff and that the floor and sheoves and rails start to bow and bend after a whil3 is thus true
No. IKEA would never sell millions each year if they couldn’t handle clothes. If people don’t build them properly or secure to the wall…. My wardrobes are solid as a rock.
Hey! Thank you for this video, beautiful!!! May I ask: What is your reason for choosing the closet door for 201 closet versus the door for the 236?
Because It would not have fitted. My height was 235. Also, I wouldn’t have been able to add coving at the top or skirting along the bottom? So basically It would have looked like a standard Pax with no detail
Hi the link to your coving is inactive. Do u have another pls?
10:39 just wondered how you attached the mdf for top, bottom and sides ?
I screwed them to the frame.
Which size gold handle option did you go with? Great video by the way!
I went for the largest
@@kirstygriffiths749 would you mind giving the measurement of them? Following the link in the description, the largest they offer is 458mm and that seems a bit large! But they look perfect on yours! So I just want to make sure I get the right size!
Please what kind of paint on doors?
Hi Kristy, thanks for your sharing. I want to follow your method to build in a wardrobe. my bedroom’s ceiling is 256cm, do you recommend to buy the pax with height 236cm on top of a diy 2x4 plinth?
I would go for the taller size. That will give you a similar gap top and bottom that I had.