Mosin Nagant 91/30 restoration lessons
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.ย. 2024
- Review of four Mosin Nagant 91/30 rifles that I've restored in the last year, one of which was built into a PU sniper configuration and one into a scout rifle. Some valuable lessons learned are shared for the benefit of other owners who wish to restore their rifles.
Great channel (lots of Mosin and gunsmithing videos):
/ iraqveteran8888
Another good channel. This one is an accurizing video:
• Accurizing the Mosin N...
Great Mosin Nagant information:
7.62x54r.net/
www.mosinnagant...
parallaxscurioa...
forums.gunboard...
Very helpful trigger study:
• Mosin Nagant trigger i...
"2-stage" trigger video:
• Mosin Nagant, $5 2 Sta...
The finish I used (after 3 coats of tru oil):
www.generalfini...
The cold bluing I used:
www.brownells.c...
Example of steel spacers from Lowes I used for pillar bedding. Start with 1" and 1.5" lengths and grind to size:
www.lowes.com/p...
Scout scope mount:
www.amazon.com/...
Bent bolt conversion service:
www.ebay.com/it...
Finish sear springs (and other Mosin parts):
www.crsurpluss...
Headspace gauges:
www.okiegauges....
Tutorial on glass bedding a Mosin:
www.theboxotrut...
Well, I saw lots of M91/30´s (virtual and in real life) but I must admit that I never saw such results of restoration. Man you´ve got talent!!! What shiny polished bolts and the woodwork on the stock is just excellent. The stocks look like some classy furniture! Wow! These rifles are nearly too precious for shooting! :-):-)
Wow, you did a great job! I've redone a few sks's and mosin stocks. I have no doubt that cosmoline gets into the wood but I think It is more around the unlacquered parts of the stock. I read the Russians used 1/3 linseed oil, 1/3 pinetar and 1/3 acetone. The first mosin stock I did I had a hell of a time with polyurethane not drying and I think that's why. The last mosin I refurbed I used a high end furniture stripper to get rid of the lacquer. I went over the stock with acetone because it will make most of the dents in the wood come out and finally reapplied linseed oil. When it drys it's nice satin finish and it's water proof as well. The pinetar gives it character and it looks and is authentic.
You did a great job on these, they look fantastic. The 2nd one from the top has some interesting grain in the butt stock. I recently refinished my 91/30 and I was very happy with the result.
Nice video and good work. I have a 1927 Izhevskij that has a post war stock (no sling escutcheons). I washed my disassembled stock with #0000 steel wool and lacquer thinner. It's still red, but all the marks and stamps are clear. Streaks and scratches in the finish are gone. I then put 4 coats of hand rubbed tung oil on it and put it all together.
I agree on your statement about restoring over the original condition the rifles come in. I have purchased 13 MN's. I plan on doing at least one restoration on a 91/30 straight bolt, and a "fake" pu sniper. I believe that the restorations will increase the values. I mean, c'mon, what harm is there when you take a beat rifle and make it look like it came out of the factory yesterday, and you are not even adding new parts to the rifles! Nice video, thanks
Agreed! they are not worth that much, so the value can't be "ruined" by restoring them.
Best looking Mosin Nagants I've ever seen, very nice work. I'm working on my 91/30 now and will be starting my M44 later this year. You've given me some good tips, Thx
Your rifles look great for being refinished. Its nice to see that you can take the time to restore them in such nice condition. My 1924 Hex looks nothing like that. Cut barrel 22" with an 11' target corwn stripped the bluing and painted. With a synthetic stock.
He explains what he did on the uploader comments if you haven't noticed yet.
He sanded them with 400 grit sandpaper, then 800 grit, then 1200 grit wet. Then used a polishing compound on a a buffing wheel, although I don't know what kind of compound he used.
They look better than when they were produced))) Beautiful collection!
This is the best rifle I have ever spent 100 $ on (including ammo). I throw it on my quad and take ride out in the woods and it does fine. Great restoration man. I didn't get my bolts that shiny haha.
I must say this is impressive, even though they do not look like they've gone through combat action i think these do have a good bit of show piece collectability, I have one original '43 Tula Sniper, unfortunately fitted with a repro scope similar to yours, but everything else is all matching and it is designated as a real sniper build. I'd love to have more of these, but theyre becoming pricey in the UK and obtaining slots for more guns is a bit of a pain here, but I would love a PEM sniper rifle if i had to get one more mosin :D. Very nice collection, I would like to see you restore a historically authentic sniper rifle someday!
The drilling and tapping was a little tricky. I first superglued the base on to check scope alignment with the bore and then transfer punched the holes. If you want to do it right, a drill press is needed (I used a cheap $70 one from Harbor Freight). I also used the drill press chuck to hand turn the first couple of threads, as pressure was required to get them started (even with a tapered tap). The 3M polishing compound (not wax) worked great in the bolt camming ramps to free up the bolts.
I avoided stripping existing bluing wherever possible. Only one where I completely reblued anything was the scout scoped rifle barrel since it was pretty bare and splotchy.
Thanks! Finally got out and shot my two scoped rifles yesterday and sited them at 50 yards. The bore sighting wasn't too far off (4-5") and without trying barrel wrap or corking was getting 3-4 MOA groups off the bench with bulgarian silver tip surplus ammo, which I think isn't to bad for a first time high power rifle shooter. Will try corking and the brown bear match ammo next time. Might take some video through my spotting scope with splash targets. BTW, Cubano, I was born in Santa Clara!
Poly won't dry if you don't get 100% of the cosmoline out. The end grain areas (like in the wrist) are really troublesome as they just keep leaching. The best way I found to get all cosmo out was oven cleaner, applied a few times but this completely strips all of the finish. Denatured alcohol works well to smooth out the existing shellac and I'd start there if you don't want a complete refinish and then use Feed & Wax afterwards. With poly, I suggest a wipe on satin finish.
Thanks man! Have really enjoyed your channel, and it was part of my inspiration. All of mine look a little darker in person that on the video but I'm loving the way the PU came out. It has a real depth an luster to the finish. Just finished polishing up the action and exterior of the bolt today and it looks and cycles super nice. The smoothest action of the 4 with the lightest trigger pull. Just what I wanted. Can't wait for it to warm up a bit so I can take it out and shoot.
BTW, I've watched and enjoyed many of your videos as well as I was going through the process of building these rifles. Can't wait to get out to the range and experiment with barrel corking to finish my accurizing process on these, especially the PU sniper, which is currently fully free floated.
A very comprehensive video! Lots of good info. Those rifles look good too. I like the PU with the darker red color stain. Well done.
BEAUTIFUL rifles.............. I refinished a few type 53's but I didn't spend as much time as you did. They came out real nice but not quite to the level of yours. If you want to see hem I've posted 2 videos..... my modest Mosin Nagant collection...... Type 53 from rough to refinished. When I get more time I'll give them the full treatment.
If you try to refinish without getting the cosmoline out, you'll have problems with your finish not drying. If you want a flat finish, try a wipe on oil (not Birchwood Casey Tru-oil as that's very glossy), like Tung oil and make sure to wipe off the excess, so there's no surface build up. I think that the best for what you want to do though is Howard's Feed & Wax, which you can usually get at Home Depot. Some of the Mosin purists (who despise refinishing) use it and their rifles look great.
You did awesome on the bolts. Must have took alot of sanding and polishing to get that mirror/chrome like finish! Those refinished mosins are mesmerizing.
Thanks! I plan to do that within the next couple of months, once I get it sited in at the range and figure out the best way to cork it for accuracy which may require a couple of range sessions.
First pick one with minimal damage, then steam. Wet rag on top of dent, then an iron over the rag set on high. Press for 15-20 seconds. Re-wet and repeat until dent is lifted. Only works on dents, not scratches.
400 grit paper, followed with 800 grit, then 1200 grit wet. Then polishing compound on the buffing wheel.
Beautiful. Just a fyi anyone starting to refinish there mosin if you like the finish of your stock do not use break free gun blast to clean your rifle it took all my finish off now I have to find a way to get all the cosmolin out of the stock. And I loved my red color it had.
Mineral spirits. I avoid removing the rear sight if possible because many are silver soldered in place. Oven cleaner is extremely caustic (alkaline) so it lifts grease while also stripping the finish. It can be hard on the wood though, So I neutralize with diluted white vinegar first and then baking soda. Then rinse and let dry for a couple of days.
Sorry, somehow missed your question before. I pretty much did what Eric did in his "2 stage trigger video" which I've added under the description on my video.
Man good job on these bro., I'm working on a few myself. I actually got the original pu version with scope,paid $690 for the combo. Great barrel. Will post vid soon
A good restoration will not lessen the value of these guns anytime soon..... and I mean for a LONG time coming.
Should have looked further before asking that question. Look so good, couldn't wait to find out how ;)
Wow, those are some good looking mosins
Best looking Mosins on TH-cam brother. Nice jobs.
Absolutely amazing work.
Good looking stocks. The wood on yours must have been much better than what I am working on now. By the time I get the deep dents and scratches out the stampings will be long gone!
I personally wouldn't do any restoration work on an original PU other than a good cleaning, especially the bore. I would do the bolt and trigger work if needed.
I never understand why people say not to clean them up, I’d rather my guns look as good if not better than when produced too!
Excellent tips on the ramps.
Those are beautiful. Mine looks like someone who just stepped out of the ring with Mike Tyson lol
They look so expensive, I'm thinking of doing he same thing on one of my mosin, good job
The best I've ever seen!
they're gorgeous. great job!
I've never considered 91/30s to be attractive rifles until seeing this video. I'm impressed, want to do one of mine?
Not my style, restoring a piece of history that never was so polished...but damn, do they look nice, especially the bolts. I might just try the Turtle Wax polish, just to get a better working bolt. How hard was it to tap and drill into the receiver with the add-on scope kit?
How'd you polish the bolts to get them so shiny? I was wanting to polish up the bolt on the sniper rifle I'm currently working on.
Beautiful work man.. Im very impressed.
They look beautiful.
Incredible work
What was your process for polishing those bolts? They look fantastic.
Mothers Mag & Aluminum Metal Polish
Is great on them
hey love the one on the top color is on the money as for the others the finish is good but the color is light if thats what youlike well ok
Ebay or maybe numeric gun parts. I have a few extra stocks that I picked up from 'AiM surplus so if I need a barrel band or spring, those have them.
Beautiful rifles.
with the PU sniper edition, did you do tru oil, then the red mahogany, the dye and then the finish?
So who’s the guy that does the bent bolt conversation ?..
Nice work
What a master pieces
Choice video brah!!
You fail to list info products and firms you use ???
DAMN THEY LOOK VERY NICE
I have just a quick question about the bluing! Did you removed or strip any of the original bluing off before using the cold bluing? If so what would you recommend doing to remove the original bluing?
These look great!
How did you get all the tarnish off the bolt? And what did you use to polish them afterwards?
Thanks for the video very informative
Hey hoganfan924· thanks for this great video, and most of all , thats why i love youtube one can always learn something new, the $1 store springs thanks for sharing.
For the 4th, mahogany-bordeaux Rifle did you use only rit dye and minwax 225, or those, as well as the arm-r-seal and tru oil? And, assuming that you did use all of the above, in what order did you apply them? Thanks!
Great work! I love what you did with the Scout configuration. I am getting ready to buy my first 91/30 Mosin Nagant and I would love to do the restoration and Scout configuration myself. Do I have to look for any particular year, hex or round receiver, or any other thing that distinguishes one 91/30 from another? Have you fired it at a range to see what kind of groupings you could get, or are these purely collector pieces? Thanks!
You can drop a scout mount on any M91/30 variant Jack, including the M44 & M38 & T53. Good to go.
So if I were to sand the stock a little bit and put some red mahogany 225 what sealer can I put over to protect it?.... I like your high gloss but I would rather have not so glossy l. And can I just leave the cosmolin in the stock...
do you have a video on how you did the take-up spring? I'd like to get a look of how you did that.
lessons i learned was not to polish to crazy cause soldiers would never had polished bolts .i go for correct now
I absolutely love the sanded and polished bolts on these rifles. did you remove the rear sights to clean the cosmoline from them or did you do it on the rifle? ( Mineral Spirits )
I've been using Mineral Spirits on the steel parts and it works really well. Never thought of oven cleaner on the stock, was that to remove the cosmoline or the finish or both ??
Hi Hoganfan 924, I also live in Michigan southeast part I have 3 91/30 and 1 91/59 and 1 M44 izzie, if I may ask were in Michigan do you live I could us your help on my refinish on my M44?, if you can help that would be great thanks for you time.
Beautiful!
Was it chrome polish on the wheel after the sanding of the bolts ?
How do u get the escutcheons off to clean? Great job, thanks.
Did you polish the bolts on a buffing wheel ??
WHERE CAN YOU GET BARREL BAND SPRINGS?
I've got a question you might be able to help me with, one of my Mosin's bolts don't open all the way without me muscling the bolt all the way up to extract the fired casing. The bolt opens and closes with no problems except when loaded and trying to extract. I've used lubricant and I've racked the bolt many times but it keeps getting stuck on extraction. Any words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated. I would also llike to know what kind of bluing you used on your metal, I used Birchwood Casey Perma blue which did a good job but your rifles look a little better than mines.
I am no expert but I have had similar problems with cosmoline inside the action gumming it up after the gun is fired, try cleaning both the receiver and the bolt with naphtha.
do the numbers match
i just noticed why are your stocks so shinny polly
I hear that modern Wolf/Brown/etc lacquer is not NEARLY as "sticky" as it used to be years ago. Anyone think there's still a problem with modern Russian ammo?
Thank you. What about a poly urethane?
like i said the top one you used stain and spent more time on and it is sexy so take it for what it is
Love those bolts! Compound and buffer??
How was that shine achieved
Please describe how you polished the bolts. Thanks.
Mothers Mag & Aluminum Metal Polish
Jewelry stores use it. Great stuff. It's a white paste, turns gray as you rub the metal. Wipe off the black goop. :)
Should have just used good old linseed oil and hand rubbed it all in, but to each their own
Does anyone know what the square with the line through it at 1:02 is on the first and third rifle stock from the bottom? I bought a Chinese sks last week and it has that same car touche.
Arsenal refurb mark iirc.
Tim Clark
Arsenal in Ukraine that refurbed a lot of these milsurps
To get the cosmoline out use a hairdryer
You should go to work for Mitchell's Mausers. They appreciate a good pimp shine.
Shame.😥
what's the price of mosin nagant .can I order this please contact me
just chil the average mosin nagant is between 100$-300$
just chil now adays 200 on the cheap end. 300 on the upper range. depends on condition and whether it's a pre ww2 hex or mid ww2 round upper
What would a 1933 hex go for?
E Romero I paid 300 for a 29 hex a month ago at a shop. but depends on shop and condition.
correction 26* hex
So wheres the lesson?
the lesson is - WHAT NOT to do to your mosin nagant.
what is with all these oils that people use just strip sand and refinish the proper way spend some time on it not the fastest way
B E A utiful !!!
J Sweatt G A Y
Iraq88 nagant
why do you say effective saftey your enginering scares me
1935 is the last year for the hex..
No, I have a 1936 hex so I know for a fact that's not true.
zellarsDD777
Everything that I have read says that no new rifles were made with Hex after 35, what year is your receive?...
It's dated 1936 on the receiver, with the Tula armory emblem. It's definitely a hex receiver and all of the parts except the bayonet and magazine plate are original, no force matching.
From what I understand they stopped making the hex receiver at Tula sometime during 1936, so you could say it is a very late production hex model.
zellarsDD777
I heard that Tula and Izhevsk stop making them in 30 when they started making the round receivers in 1930 but continued using the Hex receivers until they ran out of them in 35, I would love too see your Mosin, I need a 34, 36 and a 38 too finish my crate out from 1920 too 1939...
SEND ME ONE I GOT $250 ANY TIME YOU WANT - LOOKS WORLD CLASS
why did u ruin them
His rifles let him do what he wants.
are you serious? in america a mosin is worth 100$????!!!! Here in Italy you're lucky if you get one for 700€! D:
I bought a couple of them for $89 in 2011-12. Now they sell for about $250
I'm crying right now T_T
2 or 3 pound trigger pull is for girls it is to sencitive
Competition shooting trigger pressure is around 3.5 pounds.
So whats your problem with this?
if you gave that to a Russian soldier they would go smash it a couple times and throw it in some mud. too shiny and clean.
Nice work but a bit too shiny...