Gia sou Henry my hat is off to you for tackling that fuse panel. I'm sure it gives you peace of mind now knowing it was gone through. The back end looks very nice too.
I'm really looking forward to seeing this one complete, Henry. Apart from the fact that I love the new colour, I have listed after one of these since I was a kid and used to pass a bright yellow T Reg (I think) one on my way home from school! 😊 Looking great so far!
Hi Henry. Re: Brake light switch. This device is an incredibly simple switch. If you ( carefully) remove the base the whole thing ( about 3 parts) comes apart. Often full of crap so just a general clean up and reassembly is all that is required, takes no more than 10 minutes. Well worth doing now rather than later when you have to hang upside down in the footwell. Cheers, all the best for the new year, great progress being made here.
Thanks, I was a little concerned about taking it apart any further because it looked like a sealed unit. But I’m now guessing the parts I unclip in some way
There’s a pair of rear lights on eBay for £100 ish, and Robsport have a less cracked RH lens listed on eBay too. Glad you’re making electrical progress still! I’d be slightly worried about doing much more though without figuring out why your fuse box is getting hot enough to make you drop it, and why you’re blowing 50A fuses! Something must be shorting.
@@HenrysGarage Well I’d start off with the battery disconnected, remove each fuse in turn and test each of the two terminals for ground. None of them should be grounded! Then with the battery connected (I’ve just been playing hunt the fuse on the wiring diagram so I may’ve missed something…) there should be one fuse fed by brown that should always be live, two (or three in the FHC) fed by whites that should be live with the ignition on, and four fed by blues and two fed by reds that should be live when the lights are on. There are then two further air con related fuses shown fed by brown (always live), but I assume you won’t have that wiring. If any of the above is not the case, that’s the suspect circuit.
Hi Henry, just semantics really, but for the issue of your side indicator on the offside, 'current' does not go across, it goes 'through' voltage goes across. Each side light circuit they will be wired in parallel, so if you have no voltage across the lamp wrt GND then you have an open circuit, but seeing as you had 8V (which should be enough to light the lamp) you obviously had no current flow through it. So check the wiring on one side of the lamp to GND. As for your rear lights, what you have called the side lights are in fact the braking (stopping) lights. The actual side lights of the car are the outside lights above the indicators not the inside ones. The braking lights should be brighter than the side lights. Hope this helps. .
Thanks Chris, that sounds like I just need to swap the connections, although I notice that the bulbs are different for the tail and brake lights. I'm clear if the holders are also different because I've not seen a specific holder for the brake lights
@@HenrysGarage I'll check mine tomorrow, it may be a case that the side light lens diffuses the light more than the brake lights' lens and so have the same wattage of bulb, I'll let you know tomorrow, but it should be listed in the workshop manual I imagine, mine is in the car...typical. :)
@@flybobbie1449 Side repeaters on the front were required on US cars by legislation. The UK only had to blank these out, such was the original spec. A lot of people did upgrade their cars with the side lights and repeaters but for me having that plastic grooved piece of junk in the middle of the rear wing is what makes the car what it was. The front ones were somewhat hidden on the front bumper. :)
I remember my brother had one of these back in the 80s I had just started in the motor trade and got involved in helping him with a few jobs on it and am sorry to say what an absolute piece of crap they were it was so unreliable and fell apart on a weekly basis in the end he scraped it wich was a shame as if you took out all the British Leyland and as you see today put in a modern running gear and suspension it would make a great retro car as not a bad looking car
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Gia sou Henry my hat is off to you for tackling that fuse panel. I'm sure it gives you peace of mind now knowing it was gone through. The back end looks very nice too.
γεια σου C. είμαι ευχαριστημένος με το fuse box. :)
@@HenrysGarage Δουλεύω σε ένα 1979 MGB. Κάθε βήμα διαρκεί περισσότερο από όσο περιμένω!
ωραιο. ελπιζω να το απολαμβαινεις
I'm really looking forward to seeing this one complete, Henry. Apart from the fact that I love the new colour, I have listed after one of these since I was a kid and used to pass a bright yellow T Reg (I think) one on my way home from school! 😊
Looking great so far!
Tank you Steve, I’m pleased so far
Well done mate your making good progress
Thanks Andy, I was pleased with it
Hi Henry. Re: Brake light switch. This device is an incredibly simple switch. If you ( carefully) remove the base the whole thing ( about 3 parts) comes apart. Often full of crap so just a general clean up and reassembly is all that is required, takes no more than 10 minutes. Well worth doing now rather than later when you have to hang upside down in the footwell. Cheers, all the best for the new year, great progress being made here.
Thanks, I was a little concerned about taking it apart any further because it looked like a sealed unit. But I’m now guessing the parts I unclip in some way
There’s a pair of rear lights on eBay for £100 ish, and Robsport have a less cracked RH lens listed on eBay too.
Glad you’re making electrical progress still! I’d be slightly worried about doing much more though without figuring out why your fuse box is getting hot enough to make you drop it, and why you’re blowing 50A fuses! Something must be shorting.
Yeah, something is shorting but I've no idea what at this stage, and I don't know how to find it
@@HenrysGarage Well I’d start off with the battery disconnected, remove each fuse in turn and test each of the two terminals for ground. None of them should be grounded! Then with the battery connected (I’ve just been playing hunt the fuse on the wiring diagram so I may’ve missed something…) there should be one fuse fed by brown that should always be live, two (or three in the FHC) fed by whites that should be live with the ignition on, and four fed by blues and two fed by reds that should be live when the lights are on. There are then two further air con related fuses shown fed by brown (always live), but I assume you won’t have that wiring. If any of the above is not the case, that’s the suspect circuit.
Hi Henry, just semantics really, but for the issue of your side indicator on the offside, 'current' does not go across, it goes 'through' voltage goes across. Each side light circuit they will be wired in parallel, so if you have no voltage across the lamp wrt GND then you have an open circuit, but seeing as you had 8V (which should be enough to light the lamp) you obviously had no current flow through it. So check the wiring on one side of the lamp to GND. As for your rear lights, what you have called the side lights are in fact the braking (stopping) lights. The actual side lights of the car are the outside lights above the indicators not the inside ones. The braking lights should be brighter than the side lights. Hope this helps. .
Thanks Chris, that sounds like I just need to swap the connections, although I notice that the bulbs are different for the tail and brake lights. I'm clear if the holders are also different because I've not seen a specific holder for the brake lights
@@HenrysGarage I'll check mine tomorrow, it may be a case that the side light lens diffuses the light more than the brake lights' lens and so have the same wattage of bulb, I'll let you know tomorrow, but it should be listed in the workshop manual I imagine, mine is in the car...typical. :)
I think US were lights, UK reflectors. I always assumed the side lights were for the many unlit US junctions.
Tail lights obviously have reversed.
I think you're right. My white TR7 doesn't even have reflectors, just black markers
I just flicked through my old Haynes manual. First time for years.
@@HenrysGarage Yes, i just checked old photos of my car, front and back is just black plastic, i remember they had grooves.
@@flybobbie1449 Side repeaters on the front were required on US cars by legislation. The UK only had to blank these out, such was the original spec. A lot of people did upgrade their cars with the side lights and repeaters but for me having that plastic grooved piece of junk in the middle of the rear wing is what makes the car what it was. The front ones were somewhat hidden on the front bumper. :)
I remember my brother had one of these back in the 80s I had just started in the motor trade and got involved in helping him with a few jobs on it and am sorry to say what an absolute piece of crap they were it was so unreliable and fell apart on a weekly basis in the end he scraped it wich was a shame as if you took out all the British Leyland and as you see today put in a modern running gear and suspension it would make a great retro car as not a bad looking car
Sorry to hear you had bad experiences. I loved mine in the 80s