Great work Henry. Keep at it. I feel your pain, I had almost identical issues with the MG, particularly the horn diagram from Haynes and Autowire. Turns out they were both wrong. Come back another day, triple check and check again the connections, recheck the logic. You will get there eventually. Keep the episodes coming.
Yeah, I will get there. The thing is wiring diagrams are confusing (too me) and car wires go all over the place, but the principle is mostly simple: positive to switch to service (eg light) to ground. It's not that complicated.
Hi mate. I've Had a Triumph TR7 V8 for over 10yrs Now,Bought it of a customer of mine. You've got to Enjoy the Challenge of working on these CLASSICS. I've got Reflectors on the rear of mine ,not lights as one of the comments said.. Keep going mate ,when you get there, it's worth it.
Hi Henry, if the lights and indicators or any other circuits you ar having issues with you can try removing particular fuses to help with any cross circuit wiring. I.e. ensure that only appliances on a certain circuit are activated at any one time and move on to snother circuit. Good luck sorting it all out and Happy New Year 👍
Hi Henry, Slow or non flashing indicators are nearly always down to poor earthing. Lights that go off when others are switched on are also a classic sign of bad earth as the current backtracks through the other bulbs. To test this out, run a temporary earth direct from the battery negative terminal to the body of the light fitting and see if the situation improves. Hope this helps and Happy New Year to you.
I see the strut mount welded up. I replaced the whole of the engine bay and struts with sheet steel. Used newspaper as template. Problem with indicator are the old thermal relays. Any resistance or faults they either don't flash or get stuck on. I would fit new wiring full length.
Yeah, the fitch area on both sides was dreadful and the cost of new fitch pieces is high so I welding in patches. I should have gound it down better, but I'm learning as I go
Hi Henry, I wouldn't suspect the Pektron unit (the Headlamp Delay Unit) just yet, you are delving too deep atm, if I may say. That unit is only there to provide the delay for how long the motors stay up when you initiate it from the lighting stalk. I hope the mini stalk is directly a wire for wire replacement. I would, in all respect, stay on one thing to resolve in turn, you are right on the button to get new fuses with the right values. Size of wire or gauge of thickness required, will depend on how much current it needs to take running through it, not the voltage :) If you have wires crossed between the hazard switch side lights & indicators on either side you will end up with the situation you have, it looks to me that you have more than one fault with the wiring going to/from the indicator stalk, the main light switch & the hazard warning light, indication of that (pun intended!) is that you felt one motor getting warm, but perhaps not enough amperage to make it drive...and possibly end up dropping a fuse. Again I would start with one part first, just wire in side lights only first, then the indicators etc etc. I nearly feel as if I want to drive up and help you sort it all out!
Yeah, I've come to the conclusion there is nothing wrong with the Pektron unit, but I think I might need to relook at the switch. I'm pretty sure the light switch should have 2 settings (side lights and head lights) and I'm really only getting one. And I really needed to move the switch slowly to get the interim boast of volts.
@@HenrysGarage The speed of the switch won't matter unless there is something wrong with it. The switch makes a circuit unless the contacts are filthy or badly pitted due to arcing. Verify also that the wiring to the switches are correct, the main light switch that you had apart, ensure the side lights are going to the first and main beam lights to the second switched part, these are depicted on the schematic (item 14)
Great work Henry. Keep at it. I feel your pain, I had almost identical issues with the MG, particularly the horn diagram from Haynes and Autowire. Turns out they were both wrong. Come back another day, triple check and check again the connections, recheck the logic. You will get there eventually. Keep the episodes coming.
Yeah, I will get there. The thing is wiring diagrams are confusing (too me) and car wires go all over the place, but the principle is mostly simple: positive to switch to service (eg light) to ground. It's not that complicated.
Hi mate.
I've Had a Triumph TR7 V8 for over 10yrs Now,Bought it of a customer of mine.
You've got to Enjoy the Challenge of working on these CLASSICS.
I've got Reflectors on the rear of mine ,not lights as one of the comments said..
Keep going mate ,when you get there, it's worth it.
Hi Steve, I do enjoy working on these cars, but I also get frustrated, mostly with my own mistakes Enjoy your V8
Excellent mate love watching I feel like I'm working on my TR7 when watching you sometimes works then it doesn't😂
Hi Andy, yeah, I do muddle along, but I also want to show if I can do it anyone can
Hi Henry, if the lights and indicators or any other circuits you ar having issues with you can try removing particular fuses to help with any cross circuit wiring. I.e. ensure that only appliances on a certain circuit are activated at any one time and move on to snother circuit. Good luck sorting it all out and Happy New Year 👍
That's a good call. I'll retest each circuit with only the applicable fuses
Hi Henry, Slow or non flashing indicators are nearly always down to poor earthing. Lights that go off when others are switched on are also a classic sign of bad earth as the current backtracks through the other bulbs.
To test this out, run a temporary earth direct from the battery negative terminal to the body of the light fitting and see if the situation improves.
Hope this helps and Happy New Year to you.
Thanks Carsten, a bad earth makes sense and that's a great tip to test it. Thanks
I see the strut mount welded up. I replaced the whole of the engine bay and struts with sheet steel. Used newspaper as template. Problem with indicator are the old thermal relays. Any resistance or faults they either don't flash or get stuck on. I would fit new wiring full length.
I see you got indicator stalk on the left? I hate left indicator stalks.
I simply had to go with what I could find. These are actually for a mini but I think they'll work
Yeah, the fitch area on both sides was dreadful and the cost of new fitch pieces is high so I welding in patches. I should have gound it down better, but I'm learning as I go
@@HenrysGarage I remember i rented a gas less mig welder. Easiest for me to use.
Hi Henry, I wouldn't suspect the Pektron unit (the Headlamp Delay Unit) just yet, you are delving too deep atm, if I may say. That unit is only there to provide the delay for how long the motors stay up when you initiate it from the lighting stalk. I hope the mini stalk is directly a wire for wire replacement. I would, in all respect, stay on one thing to resolve in turn, you are right on the button to get new fuses with the right values.
Size of wire or gauge of thickness required, will depend on how much current it needs to take running through it, not the voltage :) If you have wires crossed between the hazard switch side lights & indicators on either side you will end up with the situation you have, it looks to me that you have more than one fault with the wiring going to/from the indicator stalk, the main light switch & the hazard warning light, indication of that (pun intended!) is that you felt one motor getting warm, but perhaps not enough amperage to make it drive...and possibly end up dropping a fuse. Again I would start with one part first, just wire in side lights only first, then the indicators etc etc. I nearly feel as if I want to drive up and help you sort it all out!
Yeah, I've come to the conclusion there is nothing wrong with the Pektron unit, but I think I might need to relook at the switch. I'm pretty sure the light switch should have 2 settings (side lights and head lights) and I'm really only getting one. And I really needed to move the switch slowly to get the interim boast of volts.
@@HenrysGarage The speed of the switch won't matter unless there is something wrong with it. The switch makes a circuit unless the contacts are filthy or badly pitted due to arcing. Verify also that the wiring to the switches are correct, the main light switch that you had apart, ensure the side lights are going to the first and main beam lights to the second switched part, these are depicted on the schematic (item 14)
ok, I'll check
Hi again the circuit breaker is the size of a small thumb drive...
Hi Lorne, thanks, that gives me an idea on what it might be. I’ll check the wire colours going in
I did send a longer comment with a pointer to one of my videos, I don't think it went through to you..@@HenrysGarage