I still have one that I will use on occasion. Been told that if properly cared for they are dead on accurate and can be easily checked and recalibrated.
Very good video, well done. Answered some of my questions I needed confirmed. Looking forward to the series. Thankyou for taking the time to do these videos
You can leave the back cap loose and push the crank forward to make sure the bearings are as even as possible. Then torque it. It does actually make a difference.
Finally!,. I've been waiting for this one. But I did start without you. I'm up to the point I need to install my one-piece rear oil seal and then everything that comes after that. Soooo.. I'll be waiting for part two..
I have had a few , I sand them with fine paper. Seems to be the general consensus but everyone has their own way. Make sure you are working the backside of the bearing and keep the shells together while sanding on a flat surface. Thanks for the comments and good luck!!
Did I hear you say that you're from SK in a previous video?? If so, where do you source your parts from??? I'm getting ready to start rebuilding my first engine and its also a 350 in a 1990 chevy truck This series is gonna help me lots,thanks, Mike
I couldn’t quite tell from the camera , do you place the plastic gauge on the cam and then when you tighten the bearings on it leaves some kind of thickness mark from the pressure?
I apologize for the late reply. Clean bearings and clean crank , no oil or lube , set crank in the block (do not turn) set plastigage in the center (you are checking vertical clearance , tighten cap's,(torque to spec) , loosen and pull off caps and measure. Thanks for watching.
on bolt holes that are closed u must be caerful with oil because it can hydro lock them, you will think its all the way down, but due to hydraulic effect they cannot go all the way down,, also u only need to torque the bolts to 40 psi, to get full closed clearance to do the plastic gauge checks
Yes , on blind holes you are correct! I torque to the final spec when checking , in certain scenarios you can see a difference. Thanks for the comments!!
Jay. One question. What about 350s that have a stock windage tray? They have long studs. So how do you get the correct torque setting if deep sockets dont fit all the way down to the nut on the long studs?
I have a 1989 GMC 1500 with a 5.7 tbi that has over 400k on it. Got a couple questions! How can you tell if you have spun a barring? Whats the best way you know of in buying a replacement engine? Me not having any of the special tools i would need and have never been into an engine that far before (not feeling that confident in myself to do a protect this big by myself) is there anywhere you would recommend in buying a 0 mile create engine? I really don't wanna put a junk yard engine replacement if I didn't have to. Not knowing what could be wrong with it or not knowing how long it would last. I like watching your videos though. You seem to show step by step what to do so I will subscribe and be watching more of your videos
Hi Chris , I would try GM at a dealer in your area to see if there are any Crate Engine TBI 350s around , Jeg's has a replacement engine with a good warranty but they are not available until August. I hope this helps!
Thanks. I have another question? When I drive for awhile and engine gets hot. Go in store or something and get back in to start nothing will happen when I turn key until the engine cools down a little bit. Then it will start like normal. I noticed two wires that come out from temp sensor harness that go to the thermostat housing bolts were brittle and broken off from connector. Could that be the cause of no start when hot or could it be something else? Thanks again!
Hi there, i have a question, When u set the thrust bearing do you leave all the cap slighty loose when you smack with mallet? or just the rear cap when doing that? Thanks
I tighten 1through 4 and make sure # 5 is seated ,hit both the front and back and check your clearance , torque to 20-30 and recheck , if everything is good torque to final spec. I usually add moly lubricant after the final torque , this works for me but do what is good for you. Thanks for watching
sir I would like to know if gm 4.3 liter heads, casting number 14099064 with the eyebrows will work on an engine with the TBI intake set up.. the 4.3 engines are very confusing from so many changes over the years.. I have a 93 block. I have read that the 14099064 heads were an improved flow head, designed to be used with the CPI fuel injection system. I also read that some of these heads were used in the higher output K series and W series engines with the TBI set up.. I dont want to waste a set of head gaskets if these heads will not work with my TBI intake set up.. thanks
I think pre 1996 is fine and your heads go to 1995? I think your good as 87-95 were TBI years. I don't know much about the 4.3 either. The combustion chambers are the same and does the intake match the head? I hope this helped and I apologize for the late reply. Good Luck!
@@jaysgarage3616 The combustion chambers on the heads have little eyebrows ground out to make space for the injectors on the CPI injection system. the intake lines up good with the heads so hopefully it will work,.,. the v6 gm engines has MANY changes over the years and can be a nightmare if you dont check everything.
My bills add up to nearly 3900.00. Being in Canada is waaayyyy more expensive than some people may realize and probably not a cost effective option for anyone except people in our region , or Canada.
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When you adding part #2 of the 350 rebuild...I'm really enjoying the information your providing about it... Keep up the great work dude
I will be back in the shop this week and will finish part 2 ASAP.
Thanks for the comment Wilmer.
Need part #2 sir
@@pedrochacon4025 soon , as soon as possible!
Thanks for your videos. Please keep doing them. 👍
Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching!!
Heck yea! I just bought a 94 z71 and the motor is my summer project! I will be using these videos for my build . Thank You Jay 🙏
Awesome , hope it helps you out!
I still have one that I will use on occasion. Been told that if properly cared for they are dead on accurate and can be easily checked and recalibrated.
Thanks for the reply and thanks for watching!
Very good video, well done. Answered some of my questions I needed confirmed. Looking forward to the series. Thankyou for taking the time to do these videos
Thanks for the reply!
You can leave the back cap loose and push the crank forward to make sure the bearings are as even as possible. Then torque it. It does actually make a difference.
Finally!,. I've been waiting for this one. But I did start without you. I'm up to the point I need to install my one-piece rear oil seal and then everything that comes after that.
Soooo.. I'll be waiting for part two..
Part 2 hopefully tomorrow. We have had storms etc here at home so I am 2-3 days behind. Thanks for the comment.
Keep up the work jay! Awesome video!! Waited for this for a while, I’m starting to assemble my motor as well
Thanks for the comment Pedro!
How much$?
Heya Jay. It's always good to see more Canadian content. Question for you...
If the thrust wasn't up to spec, say .002, what can you do about it?
I have had a few , I sand them with fine paper. Seems to be the general consensus but everyone has their own way. Make sure you are working the backside of the bearing and keep the shells together while sanding on a flat surface. Thanks for the comments and good luck!!
I Like your video,keep making them
Thanks Frank!!
Did I hear you say that you're from SK in a previous video??
If so, where do you source your parts from???
I'm getting ready to start rebuilding my first engine and its also a 350 in a 1990 chevy truck
This series is gonna help me lots,thanks, Mike
Hi there , I purchased from Rock Auto , my machine shop. Yes I am in SK , Regina area. Thanks for watching and have fun with your build!!
I couldn’t quite tell from the camera , do you place the plastic gauge on the cam and then when you tighten the bearings on it leaves some kind of thickness mark from the pressure?
I apologize for the late reply. Clean bearings and clean crank , no oil or lube , set crank in the block (do not turn) set plastigage in the center (you are checking vertical clearance , tighten cap's,(torque to spec) , loosen and pull off caps and measure. Thanks for watching.
Just for my future information and reference .. did you rebalance the rotating assembly after getting the new pistons?
on bolt holes that are closed u must be caerful with oil because it can hydro lock them, you will think its all the way down, but due to hydraulic effect they cannot go all the way down,, also u only need to torque the bolts to 40 psi, to get full closed clearance to do the plastic gauge checks
Yes , on blind holes you are correct!
I torque to the final spec when checking , in certain scenarios you can see a difference. Thanks for the comments!!
What is the marking tape called that you put on the main to measure thickness?
Plastigage
Did you buy a kit or everything separately?
Hi , I bought everything individually.
Jay. One question. What about 350s that have a stock windage tray? They have long studs. So how do you get the correct torque setting if deep sockets dont fit all the way down to the nut on the long studs?
Find an extra long 5/8 socket , if it is an extra long spark plug socket you will need to pull the rubber insulator out.
@@jaysgarage3616 awesome. Never thought about the sparkplug socket. Thank you.
Hello Jay how's it going? Did you rebalance? Or rebalancing is needed for a stock rebuild with new hyper pistons?
I did not rebalance , no need for this application.
@@jaysgarage3616 Thank you for the confirmation, I really appreciate it.
I have a 1989 GMC 1500 with a 5.7 tbi that has over 400k on it. Got a couple questions! How can you tell if you have spun a barring? Whats the best way you know of in buying a replacement engine? Me not having any of the special tools i would need and have never been into an engine that far before (not feeling that confident in myself to do a protect this big by myself) is there anywhere you would recommend in buying a 0 mile create engine? I really don't wanna put a junk yard engine replacement if I didn't have to. Not knowing what could be wrong with it or not knowing how long it would last. I like watching your videos though. You seem to show step by step what to do so I will subscribe and be watching more of your videos
Spun bearing will have a loud knocking noise and squeak. Engines seem harder to get lately , where are you located? Canada or U.S.?
I'm in the US about 30 minutes from Nashville Tennessee
Hi Chris , I would try GM at a dealer in your area to see if there are any Crate Engine TBI 350s around , Jeg's has a replacement engine with a good warranty but they are not available until August. I hope this helps!
Thanks. I have another question? When I drive for awhile and engine gets hot. Go in store or something and get back in to start nothing will happen when I turn key until the engine cools down a little bit. Then it will start like normal. I noticed two wires that come out from temp sensor harness that go to the thermostat housing bolts were brittle and broken off from connector. Could that be the cause of no start when hot or could it be something else? Thanks again!
@@chrisb8127 Hi Chris , if it does not turn over when warm it sounds like a starter issue.
Hi there, i have a question, When u set the thrust bearing do you leave all the cap slighty loose when you smack with mallet? or just the rear cap when doing that? Thanks
I tighten 1through 4 and make sure # 5 is seated ,hit both the front and back and check your clearance , torque to 20-30 and recheck , if everything is good torque to final spec. I usually add moly lubricant after the final torque , this works for me but do what is good for you. Thanks for watching
@jaysgarage3616 what do u add moly too?
I use a liquid and apply it to the thrust to make sur it does not start dry , that's it.@@lordsauto
@jaysgarage3616 oh ok yeah knew that wasn't sure. Thanks sir
@@jaysgarage3616 Sorry to ask again. 1 thur 4. U just tighten? Or u mean u torque them to spec. Sorry to ask again. Bob
sir I would like to know if gm 4.3 liter heads, casting number 14099064 with the eyebrows will work on an engine with the TBI intake set up.. the 4.3 engines are very confusing from so many changes over the years.. I have a 93 block. I have read that the 14099064 heads were an improved flow head, designed to be used with the CPI fuel injection system. I also read that some of these heads were used in the higher output K series and W series engines with the TBI set up.. I dont want to waste a set of head gaskets if these heads will not work with my TBI intake set up.. thanks
I think pre 1996 is fine and your heads go to 1995? I think your good as 87-95 were TBI years. I don't know much about the 4.3 either. The combustion chambers are the same and does the intake match the head? I hope this helped and I apologize for the late reply. Good Luck!
@@jaysgarage3616 The combustion chambers on the heads have little eyebrows ground out to make space for the injectors on the CPI injection system. the intake lines up good with the heads so hopefully it will work,.,. the v6 gm engines has MANY changes over the years and can be a nightmare if you dont check everything.
Where are you located? I've got a 93 Chevy Blazer with 70k miles that might make a good home for this fresh 350
I am just outside of Regina Saskatchewan.
Hey Jay, was that 350 tbi a 5.7 litter? And do you still have the motor and how much to buy?
Hi Frank , the engine was sold as soon as it was completed. Thanks for asking!
What do I tell the machine shop when I bring them the block?
They will walk you through the process generally. If you are doing a stock/mild build they will talk with you about the process.
The engine in 1989 K5 just ended its life. That would be a direct replacement. Im in Las Vegas.
Hey man , it is a direct replacement for your truck but may not be the most cost effective option for you. Let me know if you need any help!
Do you still have this motor available?
Sorry for the late reply , this engine was sold shortly after completion.
Did you sell this engine already if not how much
I have not however being in Canada is quite expensive and really would only make sense for people up here. My bills add up to 3900.00 cdn.
Price?
It is already gone.
How much$??
My bills add up to nearly 3900.00. Being in Canada is waaayyyy more expensive than some people may realize and probably not a cost effective option for anyone except people in our region , or Canada.
@@jaysgarage3616 thanks for replaying. Thanks for your videos
Cc❤
I can’t believe you are using a beam type torque wrench. May as well just use a breaker bar. Lol
Did you have Chuck do the machine work?
Haha , no the machine work was done by a fellow in Regina.