Make note to viewers, those fuel line O-rings are special. Don't just buy a regular black one. Those are Viton, not your standard rubber ones. If a GM shop doesn't have them, Napa is where I bought mine. Loved your details explaining everything. 👍
For all you TBI Rebuild enthusiasts there are 2 long, skinny screws in the kit which are for removing the bowl on the pressure regulator with out the spring getting out of control
Yes I was informed of all of that when I went to the Racing store. It appears I have a pree vortex reburn. And it was giving me problems because the previous owner had installed it incorrectly. So this week I am doing a complete teardown and rebuild on my TBI. Supposedly this is going to give me better gas mileage and more horsepower. I bought my truck because it had a lot of horsepower to begin with. Unfortunately the previous owner as installed the re burner inappropriately. When the Racing store explained it to me I went from happy with my strong pickup truck to yeah my son's not borrowing this one to go on a date. It appears I'm running a throttle body and injectors with a Turbocharger. And now that I've seen how it's supposed to be installed instead of the way I purchased it. Once I go through a complete rebuild on the TBI & properly install the exhaust charged Toronado remixer. I will be able to see what kind of horsepower I really do have on my new four-wheel-drive. I was told my fuel injectors are just fine other than they are a little bit dirty and need to be cleaned. So I picked up the full rebuild kit and checking all of the warnings very carefully. As it appears I actually purchased a souped-up four-wheel drive and should expect both better fuel consumption which will increase my mileage and my horsepower well not costing me anymore in gas and maybe even less. It appears my Silverado is one step below a Vortec without having its balls cut. And to think I thought it had its horsepower because it has a rebuilt luck but my poor baby's been sick this whole time. I fixed her up three months ago and I had no clue she was souped-up I just needed a strong four-wheel drive.
Tip: prior to replacing the gaskets (paper based) rub them with chapstick liberally. This will prevent them from sticking when you remove them next time. PB Blaster also aids in gasket removal. Spray some on and wait a bit then scrape. Always a good idea to keep the TBI bores on the manifold covered until it's time to reconnect the TBI.
@@bad66chevelles Chapstick is never an issue on paper based gaskets. And if the gasket is old of course replace it. The point of the Chapstick is in preventing the gasket from sticking. Accomplishes this very well.
If you want to add performance & stay with all ACdelco parts you can put your injector pod onto a 454 tbi body. This will double your cfm from 420 to around 880. Your bore is 1 5/8 & a 454 bore is 2 inches. You'll have instant throttle response. You'll gain noticeable power & also mpg. More air in always better. I did have an edelbrock intake bored out to fit the 2" port holes of the 454 tbi but you could simply add a tapered tbi spacer. I also added an injector pod spacer for better atomization of fuel. I had a stock 350 with this mod & it would roast my 35" tires. The only none stock part you would need is a plug adaptor for the map sensor. I got 20-22 mpg in my 93 1500 extra cab with 9 inches of lift & 35" tires.
@Bones McGillicuddy Oh definitely. Because corporations and billionaires ALWAYS make decisions based on what is best for the people and not just what fattens their wallets. I'm sure there's a good reason for some newer vehicles that damn near require that you pull the engine to change the spark plugs also. I don't know what the reason is, but they just couldn't possibly have had a nefarious motive to implement such a design : /
Nice. Unfortunately the 93 gmc I just bought to get back and forth from work just shut down whilst slowing to a stop and now it's not turning over. diagnosis time lmao 😢
Found a aftermarket gasket kit containing (two) the injector-top-O-ring, plus a METAL-retainer-ring that forces the O-ring to seat properly, when you tighten the top screws. (correcting a stupid design error) THANKS to all you shadetree mechanics. With your "re-engineering", we saved it from the junk-yard !
i rebuilt my tbi a few years ago. getting the gaskets off was the hardest part. if you want to see your injector spray pattern, hook up a timing light to the number one cylinder and aim it at the injectors. it will make it easier to see the spray pattern
I'm getting ready to rebuild mine in my 92 silverado with 214 thousand miles on it. I've replaced everything that I thought it was that was making it run rough on cold starts and almost die at stop lights. I hope it takes care of it. Thank you for posting all the information you do! It's extremely helpful and informative.
Not yet. The throttle body is rebuilt, but it still runs rough. I'm gonna do a compression test and put new plugs in it. I'm thinkin it might be my catalytic converter. That's kinda costly.
@@davidhomen4528 Cooling temp sensor in front side of intake manifold. A stall at light when stopping could be 'pick up coil' in distributor and/or the TCC solenoid.
Jimmy, the way to properly check your injector spray pattern is simply done with a timing light, it’s the same for Chevy Ford or Chrysler TBI injection systems. All 2bbl TBI units are crossfeed designs, meaning for the Chevys/Chrysler’s the driver side injector supplies the passenger side of the engine cylinders 2 - 8 and the passenger side injector supplies the driver side driver side of the engine cylinders 1 - 7. For Fords it’d be passenger side cylinders 1 - 4 & driver side cylinders 5 - 8 with the same config of the opposite side injector feeding opposite sides of the engine as well. Then, simply place the timing light clamp on ANY cylinder spark plug wire on the passenger side of the engine to check the driver side injector and likewise ANY cylinder spark plug wire on the driver side to check the passenger side injector. Then you to point the timing light at the Venturi (under the injector) showing visibly the injector spray pattern on either injector as the spark plug is fired and shows dribbling, dripping, clogged or poor flowing injector spray pattern. Perhaps, you can do it to see it for yourself then again in a video to show others as well for diag purposes and more content for other automotive DIY’ers like yourself. It’s good to check TBI spray pattern anytime a ignition tune up is being done or if a cylinder misfire is suspected and spark is verified but the miss still persists. Personally on these older TBI units I check spray pattern at every ignition tuneup, cylinder miss diag, fuel system diag, O2 sensor diag, emissions diag specifically EVAP diag and prior to catalytic converter diag. This spray pattern check can surely tell you if your injectors are clogging, causing a lean/rich condition, if EVAP system if causing injectors to pull back fuel flow causing lean condition or rich condition that would affect the catalytic converters.
Thank you for the educational tip. I didn't know the relation between injector and plug wire and timing light. I've used a timing light to check coil packs to see which one is bad. I'm going to have to check this out. Thank again!
I've saved this video a year ago because I knew I would have to change in later. Here I am watching the video again changing my fuel injectors! the hardest thing was scraping the harden old gasket off. I know this will fix all my issues. Thank you man! Good video 5 stars on explanation 10/10 video. Liked and subscribed a while ago
I used to be a car mechanic back in the '60s. Now 72 but shifted my work to small engines 40 years ago. There's a product called gasket remover that I've used on chainsaws & trimmers that would work on your TBI. Gonna rebuild my '95 Chevy truck's TBI. Great video btw!
you saved me a ton of time especially when the diaphram kept colapsing and you pointed out the 2 long screws in the kit to help with that..brilliant thank you..
Great video, masterful teaching. I’m rebuilt many Holley carbs but zero tbis. This demonstration gives me the confidence to do it myself. I just purchased a 1995 K1500 that has this setup. Really appreciate your patience, clear instructions, and tips.
@@jimparker7778 Hook a live scan tool up and watch the coolant temperature. Does it warm up with the engine? Or does it still show cold engine after ran awhile? If the latter the 'Coolant temp sensor ' needs replacing.
@@jf4872 I think Ms Harris could check her tailpipe and if there's a lot of carbon (soot) present at the exhaust tip it's a sure sign the vehicle is running rich and it does not require a scan tool. If the check engine light is on that's another way.
With the age of those injectors. I have to say I would’ve changed it myself if that was my vehicle. You made it sound real easy. Very smooth, really liked it
I'll give it a shot. I've replaced EVERYTHING from spark plugs to the ignition coil, module, oxygen sensor... new vacuum hoses, coolant temp sensor and the fuel pressure regulator but my '90 K1500 5.7 still stumbles just off idle when I leave a stop sign and eventually runs a tad rich. The only thing I haven't replaced yet is the injectors and TBI to manifold gasket. Thank you for the wealth of information in your videos.
Getting ready to do my 1993 Chevy g20 350 TBI and man I gotta tell you, this video really helps a LOT and the details make it the best I’ve seen anywhere. Good job!!!
@@aghaabbas1 I wanna say it’s the same rebuild kit. If it’s a 350 TBI anyway. It’s not hard to do it. Make sure to clean it up good with some kind of cleaner and get the old gaskets off as best as you can.
Very same procedure on the marine version of the TBIs used on Mercruiser and Volvo Penta Chevy block engines with Vortec heads. That would cover the 4.3, 5.0 and 5.7 and may well cover the 454s. The TBI body has some slight differences where the idle air control valve is located but looks and operates essentially the same.
For those wondering replacing injectors usually does two things. Like jimmy said they will help restore, restore being the key word, throttle response and some what fuel economy. I say somewhat because if you have leaky injectors that will cause poor fuel atomization and you go through more fuel, making a little less power. Hence the throttle response. Better fuel economy will be realized due to O2 sensors. These control your fuel trims. If you have a clogged injector or bad spray pattern, your fuel trims from what the ecu reads will either take away or add fuel to try and keep the fuel ratio right. But that only will be able to do so much. PS getting some arasol gasket remover spray, can go a long way to help getting stubborn paper or cork gaskets off.
Very good video very helpful and well detail good job my friend thank you for your good advice and nicely done video that will make my job go smoothly just watching your video
Good Job. These older Chevy/GM TBI cause most of the problems with these vehicles. On my 1993 C1500 every year there is a new problem with the TBI. Gasket, EGR, TPS, Idle Air Control... ECT.. just bought the kit, and new vacuum lines. Going to just re-do everything and hopefully give the engine a fresh start.
Quite the contrary. The TBI itself is rather reliable. It is usually the 'Cooling temp sensor' that leads the way along with the ignition switch at the base of the steering column.
I think it was because he spoke like girl removing the gaskets dragging it out, when a wire wheel on drill woulve take 10,max. Instead he goes on and on
Thank you for sharing your video. I just rebuilt my TBI. You should send your old injectors to Fuel Injector Connection. They rebuild both TBI injectors for $35. Cheaper than new ones. I just installed mine.
I literally just did this on my 88 C1500 and put it all back together in around an hour and a half plus I added a trans-dapt tbi spacer, what a difference it made it feels like a totally new truck. Great video bubba keep em coming 🤙
Absolutely perfect, just what I was looking for. Greatly appreciate the superb high quality camera work and all the details you put into this video! Seems like a lot of people want to use a potato camera and shoot the video in near dark with some form of bad music and/or an air compressor running in the background. Anyway, this helps tons! Thank you!
Lucky you. Those GM parts are getting hard to find on our Suburbans with the TBI. If you plan to keep that rig, it might be worth it to start collecting all of the GM parts you can that have anything to do with sensors such as the throttle position sensor, EGR module, coolant temperature sensor and so forth as there will be a day you will be stuck having to use aftermarket parts and most mechanics will say when it comes to sensors, its best to use GM OEM parts if at all possible. I have a big box of brand new GM parts for my 1989 GMC V1500 because they are no longer available from GMC/GM. Good review of TBI disassembly etc. (No razor blades please on aluminum). Soak them old gaskets off then use plastic scrapers.
@@Mike-mm6jp I haven't horded but did replace all the sensors in my P-30 chassis RV 454 TBI with the thought that I'm not going to keep the RV like I would a car possibly. Bought it in Sept 2014 and within the first few years had all the sensors replaced with Delco parts. I have a TBI rebuild kit in waiting. Beyond that it runs great. Stuff I've replaced thus far EGR, TPS, MAP PCV, ICV, Purge valve, EGR solenoid actuator, ICM, Pick-up coil. Ignition switch etc...
I had a Scottsdale with TBI and it started going through injectors. I got to where i could change them out in just a few minutes. Ended up a van with a 350 in a junkyard and got the TBI off it and it was happy the rest of time I had it.
Man great video. Very detailed, great camera work and great quality. I actually watched it after I rebuilt mine. Just to make sure I had the position of the injectors right. First time rebuilding a tbi for me and I did it exactly how you did. Also for the gasket removal a dremel with adjustable speed and a small soft wire wheel helps A LOT. It's not strong enough to eat into the throttle body but enough to rip the gasket off. Took me maybe 2 minutes to get all that gasket off of everything. Great video man!
A good tip is to take lots of pics before, during, teardown just in case you forget where things go. Very careful and we'll done! Note, you don't need lube on orings, lube and gasoline don't mix, should they somehow meet. But, preventative maintenance kicks ass! 😆
For reeeeel dude! I was trying to b***h-slap him through my phone screen the whole time he was doing it. I was like, "Yeah! ...and while your doin it you should go oil the valves on your oxy-acetylene welding tanks!!!" (WARNING to anyone reading this, DON'T get oil anywhere near high purity oxygen unless you want to die in an explosion so hot and powerful there'll nothing left to bury!) I don't get this dude. He seems to be dead on skilled 95% of the time but that last 5 he does stuff that no one who's taken just a momentary glance at a Google would do (...or read through the near useless instructions in a Chilton manual).
@@aaaarrrg3773 you are both wrong. O rings never get installed dry. They need to lubricated with some form of something. Putting a tiny bit of oil on them will cause literally nothing.. chill out guys.
Great video. I've done a couple in my time. A wire wheel will work on the gaskets too. But don't get carried away. It will damage/ remove the metal. Here is an update on my oil recovery system I saw you install. WOW. There is alot of oil that goes through there.
Brake fluid works great for softening gasket material, also used paint & epoxy stripper. Great job & explained VERY VERY WELL SIR. The only thing I would have done is to spray the crap out of it with carb. cleaner. THAT IS ONE CLEAN INTAKE & TBI FOR HOW OLD IT IS, WOW. Is this the vehicle you added the CATCH CAN TO ?
I used the B12 Chemdip from the parts store (1 gallon can) and a brass bristle brush. Worked great. I had to do some detail scraping from the crevaces but overall the Chemdip worked really well.
I've got a 1992 chev c3500 that was parked for a year and a half. This video helped alot. I've replaced the TBI and IAC and the EGR and the fuel filter. Still wouldn't idle. So I'm going to do this now! Thanks for the info
Great video! I have a 94 Silverado 5.0, 384k original miles same engine. I recently thought I would spray some throttle body cleaner through the TBI. Well, it must've broke some crud loose and after that, it had a hesitation on the pedal. Thought maybe messed up a sensor, but no. So, I took apart the throttle body and did a deep clean. Bought the fuel pressure rebuild kit as I rebuilt the throttle body a few years ago. Spraying the throttle body while on the engine only does so much. After reinstalling, the hesitation has been cleared up. Not a difficult job to do at all. I too felt an increase in the throttle response! OH, I noticed you have an ANTI LOCK BRAKE light on. Mine failed several months ago. I disconnected wire for a while but went to the salvage yard and picked one up for $15. Problem solved! Gotta love working on your own stuff! Great sense of pride in your accomplishments.
Last week I changed out my spark plugs and cleaned my throttle body and my engine is purring now and I'm actually getting better gas mileage. My TB was pretty dirty.
I've owned many vehicles with the same TBI setup. I have to say it. This is in my opinion a very good design. It really seems to be more reliable than the TPI setup. Now yes, I will admit that the TPI does seem to have a little more output. But if you ask me - this system is by far the best way to go. It has that good Rochester Quadrajet look to it. Maintains good for reliability. Not to mention, if you ever get stuck on the side of the road, you can throw a carburetor on this design and be on your Merry way.
I rebuild carburetors and I have a 5 gallon pail of carburetor cleaner. I always put my carbs/throttle bodies in there usually overnight. The gaskets come off real easy. I have a '95 chevy Silverado that is like your Suburban, white with a blue interior. Thanks and take care.
I have a 1992 chevy s10 with the 2.8 v6 tbi. And to my knowledge, they never been cleaned. She got 200,100 miles. The truck was my old man's truck .We had her since 92.
Great job. You will maybe see an increase in fuel economy. It is good practice to put some clean towels in the intake as soon as you remove anything. Your hot start with heat soak will improve as the injectors will not leak and make the hot start too rich.
I use wide masking tape. Sometimes you may have to degrease surface first. Generally best to clean the engine before working on it unless it's already clean like Jimmy's.
I noticed that too. Also hear other people go through the same thing after replacing with new injectors. I'd try using a 9V battery to cycle the new injectors. Maybe this would correct it?!
I have a 91 Chevy 4.3 L. Got off a friend, probably sat for a bit. When it’s cold it runs fine, however once warmed up it backfires through the throttlebody When accelerating at XRPM underload. Only does it in drive does, not do it in park. Has a new throttle position sensor or whatever it is it screws into the side of the throttlebody, has a new EGR valve, and a new air filter. I have not fully tuned it up yet. I also removed the catalytic converter and put on a new muffler.
Use a timing light in a dark garage to inspect injector pattern. Take off the fuel fittings before unbolting anything. The will both come out. Clean the old gasket with a good wire brush after soaking it with carb cleaner for about 15 minutes. Good job for a beginner though.
Hey man thank you for posting all these videos about the 5.7 tbi k1500 motor! I own a 95 Chevy and I’m definitely no mechanic but your videos most definitely make my job a thousand times easier by doing your videos! Thank you for taking the time to help people get stuff done right?
@@matthewgralak-allen4962plastic and the heat don't mix. The plastic gets very brittle. Got a 72 Chevy El Camino and those plastic dashboards are insane if you need to take them apart.
80's Ford guy mentioned using a timing light to check the spray pattern. You might be able to do the same thing with a LED flashlight, one that has two or three levels of brightness. I think the LEDs pulse quickly to reduce the brightness. Holding one under a water faucet totally changes the look of the water coming out because of the strobe effect. Now that I said this I'm going to try it tomorrow to see if I'm stupid or not. 😁
@@AcmeAce for checking spray, the strobe needs the CORRECT strobe. Flashlights strobe/pulse differently at different brightness levels. That's what I was getting at.
I ordered the parts for the same job on my 1995 Suburban 7.4 L 4x4. this video was very well done and informative. thank you so much for detailed instruction, so many videos don't do what you do. Keep up the good work. I noticed your Hoyt Archery hat. Do you hunt?
Well explained, brilliant lighting and camera work. I've never seen this done before, worth watching for sure. I like your recognition of a placebo effect, it raises the auto repair genre to a higher level. When are you going to tackle that ABS light on your dash?
@@1RoadGaragedid you take your vehicle and have it smogged? My vehicle doesn't pass the smog test. The injector looked like it had dripping like the old injectors.
My 1987 s10 blazer 2.8 liter has had some performance issues on start up. Long crank time until firing and hesitation upon acceleration. After start up and engaging in load the engine would die. I have been working thru the problem with gas line filter change, new fuel, new spark plugs and throttle position sensor, o2 sensor was bad also. Engine runs well now but the long crank time until firing still persists. I am at the point of testing the fuel pump pressure and looking at the tbi injectors now. Thanks for your video.
This presentation was very clear and informative. His results was as expected. I'm hoping to get the same good results with my first-time service. Thank you. 2-thumbs Up!
Great how-to! Thanks for detail DIY... I'm going to have to perform this myself on my 93' buick roadmaster w/the LO5 5.7l. My buick is failing Emissions, running on th fat side. Tune-up time!🔧
Nice job Jimmy, I do not often comment on DYI home films, but I really enjoyed your narrative and your to the point explanations. I am working on a TBI system and did not remove the throttle body base as you did. I just took of the top. I had not worked on this type fuel system before and I will say your film was very helpful. And more importantly, I actually enjoyed it and watched the entire film. (that seldom happens) Thank-you!
Greeting from Bangkok,,,,,l love your jobs. I have a G20 van 5.7 TBI 1992yr till now never tune up just put some gas and go, she on good shape. Thanks a lot,,,,
Yes, pull the relay while it's running. And that was an open end wrench you showed, not box. A wrench with both box and open end is called a combination wrench. Fine thread fasteners are almost always lower torque. The wrench Jimmy used to brake torque with was a little larger than what you'd want to use going back together. Why? Because you can easily apply excessive torque with a larger wrench. The throttle body is made of a softer metal alloy and with steel fasteners, it would be fairly easy to over torque and actually pull the threads from the casting (that would suck). The same with the 3 mount bolts into the manifold. Snug and a light tug, that's it. Best to use 1/4 drive wrench going back together. One thing to keep in mind before you do this job is that the butterfly shaft in throttle body can wear and create a vacuum leak just like with a carburetor. You can easily test for this condition by spraying carb cleaner at the shaft with the engine idling. If there is a vacuum leak at the shaft the engine will slow down when it sucks in the carb cleaner. This is a common problem on older vehicles.
Thanks for the video, I have a 91 c1500 that is original as far as I know. I have purchased the rebuild kit and I went with remanufactured injectors because this is just my truck for around the property and not a daily driver. I’m looking forward to seeing if it runs differently.
I usually keep my trucks close to stock with minimal upgrades for easy maintenance and future owners, saves from guessing. But one was on the tbi engines I have put a spiraled throttle body spacer in.
Very good video, very clear, and very informative!!.as .I Will Follow Your Steps To the "T" .jus curious though how did you know what Overall Kit and what Injectors to purchase.?. How did you find this information ?, Does one go by the year, make, model, engine size of their vehicle or perhaps the GM Rochester TBI Identification number on the front side of the throttle body?..Any info you could provide, would be very very much appreciated! ty...
Actually just did this, mine drips like yours I have a 95 , runs about the same maybe a little better power, sometimes it runs a little rough when it’s cold but smooth idle once it’s warm, tbi is very picky, great video
For all in the know...it's probably best to do a full Idle Valve reset after an overhaul like this. These TBIs get wack once they start running rich and dripping fuel so the computer compensates by opening up the Idle Air Valve to max open. Sometimes they get stuck open (buildup, etc.). Rebuild the TBI, clean the Idle Air Valve (they hardly go bad), replace the Throttle Position Sensor (They are super cheap) then perform the Idle Valve relearn procedure. Your truck will be purring like the day it left the lot. Folks forget about the Idle Air Valve relearn procedure and wonder why their truck still runs like crap still. Oh and there is also that annoying thing called a fuel filter. If you are working on TBI rebuild then you can sure bet you need to change the fuel filter also on any piece with high miles.
yep, you can do it exactly as you discovered, remove those fittings itll pop right out, also the top of the pod can just be disconnected while still on the engine its the same proceedure you would use to do a rebuild or replacement of the regulator, would give you access to the injectors with the bottom half of the pod still connected
Not once did you use a can of Carb Cleaner and a tooth brush. WD-40 doesn't work to remove old gasket material. Carb Cleaner does ! And you don't use a Razor blade scraper. Like you said, "It will dig into the aluminum". You use a 1 1/2 inch wide stiff Putty knife. And scrape off the excess material. And you should make sure, to get rid of ALL, the excess gasket material. As when you put on the new gasket. It may not seal properly, because of the uneven surface ! As long as you tighten each screw, so it is SNUG. You will be fine. DO NOT tighten the screws. As in Crank on them. You will strip out the threads. It's Aluminum remember ! You can tighten down the 3 mounting bolts to 20 Inch pounds. But if you use some Hi Tach gasket Sealer from Permatex. Just Snug them down evenly. And you won't get any vacuum leaks. Proper Atomized fuel, gives you a much better throttle response. Than shooting drops of fuel into the engine. And you will get better gas mileage. Over all, your video was very descriptive and had really good detail. You showed each step very well. And your narrative was pretty darn good too ! No blurriness or jumpiness. A very good video Jimmy !
Get your self a slab of granet, which is perfectly flat, then get some stick back super fine sand paper and that will take those gaskets off like nothing and still keep the mating surfaces perfect
Should have used some gasket remover spray to soften and remove the gaskets. Then, (using some 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper and a piece of glass or mirror) lightly sand the gasket surfaces flat.
When I was cleaning off old gaskets I used two things, if I had time I used an acid bath. If I didn't have time I used the brass brush wheel on a dremel.
The video was great my TBI is just like yours 1995 Chevy Silverado 2500 4x4 7.4L, I can fix my own now and thank you, I've already replaced mine things on my engine,thank you
Great video Jimmy. Great explanation and great narration as well as just talking through what you're thinking about. That sounds redundant. I'm about to do this on my '95 Chevy 2500 pickup with 374K miles on it. I have high hopes.
New gaskets plus tightening all the loose stuff down makes for a reduction in minuscule vacuum leaks where you didn’t know you may have had them, and where you definitely don’t want them. That makes for better vaporization of the atomized fuel. Simple stuff, often disregarded or overlooked (deliberately or not) - it’s these little things that all add up- in this case, I wouldn’t be surprised if you see an extra mpg or two in short order, mostly from crisper throttle response. (Your manifold gaskets could probably use replacing too, for a similar effect)
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Make note to viewers, those fuel line O-rings are special. Don't just buy a regular black one. Those are Viton, not your standard rubber ones. If a GM shop doesn't have them, Napa is where I bought mine.
Loved your details explaining everything. 👍
This is the best video I’ve seen on Gm TBI rebuilds
For all you TBI Rebuild enthusiasts there are 2 long, skinny screws in the kit which are for removing the bowl on the pressure regulator with out the spring getting out of control
Yes I was informed of all of that when I went to the Racing store. It appears I have a pree vortex reburn. And it was giving me problems because the previous owner had installed it incorrectly. So this week I am doing a complete teardown and rebuild on my TBI. Supposedly this is going to give me better gas mileage and more horsepower. I bought my truck because it had a lot of horsepower to begin with. Unfortunately the previous owner as installed the re burner inappropriately. When the Racing store explained it to me I went from happy with my strong pickup truck to yeah my son's not borrowing this one to go on a date. It appears I'm running a throttle body and injectors with a Turbocharger. And now that I've seen how it's supposed to be installed instead of the way I purchased it. Once I go through a complete rebuild on the TBI & properly install the exhaust charged Toronado remixer. I will be able to see what kind of horsepower I really do have on my new four-wheel-drive. I was told my fuel injectors are just fine other than they are a little bit dirty and need to be cleaned. So I picked up the full rebuild kit and checking all of the warnings very carefully. As it appears I actually purchased a souped-up four-wheel drive and should expect both better fuel consumption which will increase my mileage and my horsepower well not costing me anymore in gas and maybe even less. It appears my Silverado is one step below a Vortec without having its balls cut. And to think I thought it had its horsepower because it has a rebuilt luck but my poor baby's been sick this whole time. I fixed her up three months ago and I had no clue she was souped-up I just needed a strong four-wheel drive.
C clamp
Tip: prior to replacing the gaskets (paper based) rub them with chapstick liberally. This will prevent them from sticking when you remove them next time. PB Blaster also aids in gasket removal. Spray some on and wait a bit then scrape. Always a good idea to keep the TBI bores on the manifold covered until it's time to reconnect the TBI.
Chapstick, genius!
Or acetone for removal .
@@bad66chevelles Chapstick is never an issue on paper based gaskets. And if the gasket is old of course replace it. The point of the Chapstick is in preventing the gasket from sticking. Accomplishes this very well.
If you want to add performance & stay with all ACdelco parts you can put your injector pod onto a 454 tbi body. This will double your cfm from 420 to around 880. Your bore is 1 5/8 & a 454 bore is 2 inches. You'll have instant throttle response. You'll gain noticeable power & also mpg. More air in always better. I did have an edelbrock intake bored out to fit the 2" port holes of the 454 tbi but you could simply add a tapered tbi spacer. I also added an injector pod spacer for better atomization of fuel. I had a stock 350 with this mod & it would roast my 35" tires. The only none stock part you would need is a plug adaptor for the map sensor. I got 20-22 mpg in my 93 1500 extra cab with 9 inches of lift & 35" tires.
@Bones McGillicuddy Oh definitely. Because corporations and billionaires ALWAYS make decisions based on what is best for the people and not just what fattens their wallets. I'm sure there's a good reason for some newer vehicles that damn near require that you pull the engine to change the spark plugs also. I don't know what the reason is, but they just couldn't possibly have had a nefarious motive to implement such a design : /
Hi. where would you get this Tappered TBI Spacer?
did you have to mess with the fuel pressure regulator or use a higher pressure fuel pump?
@@randy1ization no I did this to my 350
@@wlessard1 Look up "CFM tech" they make them
You have given this 78 year old the confidence to do this on my 88 Eldorado. It only has 49,000 miles on it but it is 35 years old.
Nice. Unfortunately the 93 gmc I just bought to get back and forth from work just shut down whilst slowing to a stop and now it's not turning over. diagnosis time lmao 😢
Holy crap 35 years and only 49k. That’s a goldmine.
Found a aftermarket gasket kit containing (two) the injector-top-O-ring, plus a METAL-retainer-ring that forces the O-ring to seat properly, when you tighten the top screws. (correcting a stupid design error) THANKS to all you shadetree mechanics. With your "re-engineering", we saved it from the junk-yard !
i rebuilt my tbi a few years ago. getting the gaskets off was the hardest part. if you want to see your injector spray pattern, hook up a timing light to the number one cylinder and aim it at the injectors. it will make it easier to see the spray pattern
you are right about that..
Nice, gonna rebuild a set tomorrow. Have to check it out.
LOL. Where do we find an older style timing light ?
You can use a 9v battery and a can of carb spray to actuate and clean injectors while off of the engine.
InstaBlaster.
I'm getting ready to rebuild mine in my 92 silverado with 214 thousand miles on it. I've replaced everything that I thought it was that was making it run rough on cold starts and almost die at stop lights. I hope it takes care of it.
Thank you for posting all the information you do! It's extremely helpful and informative.
Did it fix your issue? I'm having the same problem with cols starts and stalling at lights sometimes
Not yet. The throttle body is rebuilt, but it still runs rough.
I'm gonna do a compression test and put new plugs in it. I'm thinkin it might be my catalytic converter. That's kinda costly.
@@davidhomen4528 Cooling temp sensor in front side of intake manifold. A stall at light when stopping could be 'pick up coil' in distributor and/or the TCC solenoid.
@@davidhomen4528 O2 sensor? IAC? TPS?
If you don't mind me asking have you figured it out? I've done nearly everything and that's what mine doing
Nice job! I guess it’s almost like working on a carburetor, but less complicated, and no adjustments to worry about.
Great enunciation for my bad ears. Didn't have to jack the volume up and understood every word. Good job.
Jimmy, the way to properly check your injector spray pattern is simply done with a timing light, it’s the same for Chevy Ford or Chrysler TBI injection systems. All 2bbl TBI units are crossfeed designs, meaning for the Chevys/Chrysler’s the driver side injector supplies the passenger side of the engine cylinders 2 - 8 and the passenger side injector supplies the driver side driver side of the engine cylinders 1 - 7. For Fords it’d be passenger side cylinders 1 - 4 & driver side cylinders 5 - 8 with the same config of the opposite side injector feeding opposite sides of the engine as well.
Then, simply place the timing light clamp on ANY cylinder spark plug wire on the passenger side of the engine to check the driver side injector and likewise ANY cylinder spark plug wire on the driver side to check the passenger side injector. Then you to point the timing light at the Venturi (under the injector) showing visibly the injector spray pattern on either injector as the spark plug is fired and shows dribbling, dripping, clogged or poor flowing injector spray pattern. Perhaps, you can do it to see it for yourself then again in a video to show others as well for diag purposes and more content for other automotive DIY’ers like yourself.
It’s good to check TBI spray pattern anytime a ignition tune up is being done or if a cylinder misfire is suspected and spark is verified but the miss still persists. Personally on these older TBI units I check spray pattern at every ignition tuneup, cylinder miss diag, fuel system diag, O2 sensor diag, emissions diag specifically EVAP diag and prior to catalytic converter diag. This spray pattern check can surely tell you if your injectors are clogging, causing a lean/rich condition, if EVAP system if causing injectors to pull back fuel flow causing lean condition or rich condition that would affect the catalytic converters.
Thank you for the educational tip. I didn't know the relation between injector and plug wire and timing light. I've used a timing light to check coil packs to see which one is bad. I'm going to have to check this out. Thank again!
I've saved this video a year ago because I knew I would have to change in later. Here I am watching the video again changing my fuel injectors! the hardest thing was scraping the harden old gasket off. I know this will fix all my issues. Thank you man! Good video 5 stars on explanation 10/10 video. Liked and subscribed a while ago
I used to be a car mechanic back in the '60s. Now 72 but shifted my work to small engines 40 years ago. There's a product called gasket remover that I've used on chainsaws & trimmers that would work on your TBI. Gonna rebuild my '95 Chevy truck's TBI. Great video btw!
Next time use some brake fluid to melt the gaskets a bit! Brush some on and leave it for a little bit, after a while you’ll have an easier time!
Thanks for the tip
you saved me a ton of time especially when the diaphram kept colapsing and you pointed out the 2 long screws in the kit to help with that..brilliant thank you..
Great video, masterful teaching. I’m rebuilt many Holley carbs but zero tbis. This demonstration gives me the confidence to do it myself. I just purchased a 1995 K1500 that has this setup. Really appreciate your patience, clear instructions, and tips.
Doing this today on my 89 Blazer. Thank you for filming and teaching a guy!
I love the old TBI system. They were very durable in my experience. Not all that hi-tech but user friendly as Jimmy is showing here.
Can please help my tdi
Can you please help me with my tbi it is running to rich
@@melvyharris6580 How do you know it's too rich?
@@jimparker7778 Hook a live scan tool up and watch the coolant temperature. Does it warm up with the engine? Or does it still show cold engine after ran awhile? If the latter the 'Coolant temp sensor ' needs replacing.
@@jf4872 I think Ms Harris could check her tailpipe and if there's a lot of carbon (soot) present at the exhaust tip it's a sure sign the vehicle is running rich and it does not require a scan tool. If the check engine light is on that's another way.
Just changed the rt injector on my 32 year old coachmen after watching your video.Perfect now! Thanks!
With the age of those injectors. I have to say I would’ve changed it myself if that was my vehicle. You made it sound real easy. Very smooth, really liked it
I'll give it a shot. I've replaced EVERYTHING from spark plugs to the ignition coil, module, oxygen sensor... new vacuum hoses, coolant temp sensor and the fuel pressure regulator but my '90 K1500 5.7 still stumbles just off idle when I leave a stop sign and eventually runs a tad rich. The only thing I haven't replaced yet is the injectors and TBI to manifold gasket. Thank you for the wealth of information in your videos.
Great cardboard Idea to keep the screws where they belong. I'm using it. Thanks
Getting ready to do my 1993 Chevy g20 350 TBI and man I gotta tell you, this video really helps a LOT and the details make it the best I’ve seen anywhere. Good job!!!
Mines a 1985 and I was gonna write the same however would you mind sharing if it takes the same rebuild kit or is it a differnt part number?
Thanks.
@@aghaabbas1 I wanna say it’s the same rebuild kit. If it’s a 350 TBI anyway. It’s not hard to do it. Make sure to clean it up good with some kind of cleaner and get the old gaskets off as best as you can.
Very same procedure on the marine version of the TBIs used on Mercruiser and Volvo Penta Chevy block engines with Vortec heads. That would cover the 4.3, 5.0 and 5.7 and may well cover the 454s. The TBI body has some slight differences where the idle air control valve is located but looks and operates essentially the same.
Thank you for the walk through sir. My '92 camaro is due for injectors. With 270,000 miles, they have to have billions of cycles on them.
For those wondering replacing injectors usually does two things. Like jimmy said they will help restore, restore being the key word, throttle response and some what fuel economy.
I say somewhat because if you have leaky injectors that will cause poor fuel atomization and you go through more fuel, making a little less power. Hence the throttle response.
Better fuel economy will be realized due to O2 sensors. These control your fuel trims. If you have a clogged injector or bad spray pattern, your fuel trims from what the ecu reads will either take away or add fuel to try and keep the fuel ratio right. But that only will be able to do so much.
PS getting some arasol gasket remover spray, can go a long way to help getting stubborn paper or cork gaskets off.
Very good video very helpful and well detail good job my friend thank you for your good advice and nicely done video that will make my job go smoothly just watching your video
I have a question can you delete o2 sensory and any other emission crap and run a 1991 350 tbi with no problems or lights? As I do not need emissions?
@@FURFEELINGS_3what about the smog air pump robbing power?
Good Job. These older Chevy/GM TBI cause most of the problems with these vehicles. On my 1993 C1500 every year there is a new problem with the TBI. Gasket, EGR, TPS, Idle Air Control... ECT.. just bought the kit, and new vacuum lines. Going to just re-do everything and hopefully give the engine a fresh start.
Quite the contrary. The TBI itself is rather reliable. It is usually the 'Cooling temp sensor' that leads the way along with the ignition switch at the base of the steering column.
Wow! The TBI unit looks just like the 4.3 V6 version on my 1992 Sierra. Brings back memories of when I overhauled mine.
The people that gave this a thumbs down didn't own a vehicle.
Uber allies.
Or a brain.
I think it was because he spoke like girl removing the gaskets dragging it out, when a wire wheel on drill woulve take 10,max. Instead he goes on and on
The people who gave it a thumbs down must be Biden& Kamala harris supporters…
*don't work on their own vehicles
Good job, explaining, details etc.
Don't enderstand the dislikes. Thank you
Thank you for sharing your video. I just rebuilt my TBI. You should send your old injectors to Fuel Injector Connection. They rebuild both TBI injectors for $35. Cheaper than new ones. I just installed mine.
Not going to be surprised when I rebuild the throttle body in my 30 year old chevy.
Thanks for this vid. Made it look easy.
I literally just did this on my 88 C1500 and put it all back together in around an hour and a half plus I added a trans-dapt tbi spacer, what a difference it made it feels like a totally new truck. Great video bubba keep em coming 🤙
Absolutely perfect, just what I was looking for. Greatly appreciate the superb high quality camera work and all the details you put into this video! Seems like a lot of people want to use a potato camera and shoot the video in near dark with some form of bad music and/or an air compressor running in the background. Anyway, this helps tons! Thank you!
Great video and I have come to the conclusion that a TBI is much simpler and easier to deal with than a carb...
Lucky you. Those GM parts are getting hard to find on our Suburbans with the TBI. If you plan to keep that rig, it might be worth it to start collecting all of the GM parts you can that have anything to do with sensors such as the throttle position sensor, EGR module, coolant temperature sensor and so forth as there will be a day you will be stuck having to use aftermarket parts and most mechanics will say when it comes to sensors, its best to use GM OEM parts if at all possible. I have a big box of brand new GM parts for my 1989 GMC V1500 because they are no longer available from GMC/GM. Good review of TBI disassembly etc. (No razor blades please on aluminum). Soak them old gaskets off then use plastic scrapers.
i have a 89 v1500 also and doing the exact same thing,, hoarding parts
@@Mike-mm6jp I haven't horded but did replace all the sensors in my P-30 chassis RV 454 TBI with the thought that I'm not going to keep the RV like I would a car possibly. Bought it in Sept 2014 and within the first few years had all the sensors replaced with Delco parts. I have a TBI rebuild kit in waiting. Beyond that it runs great. Stuff I've replaced thus far EGR, TPS, MAP PCV, ICV, Purge valve, EGR solenoid actuator, ICM, Pick-up coil. Ignition switch etc...
Used your video to rebuild mine 95 5.7 Silverado carburetor... fired right up on the first try thanks.
I had a Scottsdale with TBI and it started going through injectors. I got to where i could change them out in just a few minutes. Ended up a van with a 350 in a junkyard and got the TBI off it and it was happy the rest of time I had it.
Awesome Video. I suggest @12:03 Gunk carb cleaner and basket, hour soak and Wipe Off, no scrape metal. SKU: CC3K
Dremel tool with a small wire wheel cleans that up super nice.
Man great video. Very detailed, great camera work and great quality. I actually watched it after I rebuilt mine. Just to make sure I had the position of the injectors right. First time rebuilding a tbi for me and I did it exactly how you did. Also for the gasket removal a dremel with adjustable speed and a small soft wire wheel helps A LOT. It's not strong enough to eat into the throttle body but enough to rip the gasket off. Took me maybe 2 minutes to get all that gasket off of everything. Great video man!
Seriously one of the best how to videos I’ve seen out there. Thanks for your efforts!
A good tip is to take lots of pics before, during, teardown just in case you forget where things go. Very careful and we'll done! Note, you don't need lube on orings, lube and gasoline don't mix, should they somehow meet. But, preventative maintenance kicks ass! 😆
For reeeeel dude! I was trying to b***h-slap him through my phone screen the whole time he was doing it. I was like, "Yeah! ...and while your doin it you should go oil the valves on your oxy-acetylene welding tanks!!!" (WARNING to anyone reading this, DON'T get oil anywhere near high purity oxygen unless you want to die in an explosion so hot and powerful there'll nothing left to bury!)
I don't get this dude. He seems to be dead on skilled 95% of the time but that last 5 he does stuff that no one who's taken just a momentary glance at a Google would do (...or read through the near useless instructions in a Chilton manual).
@@aaaarrrg3773 you are both wrong. O rings never get installed dry. They need to lubricated with some form of something. Putting a tiny bit of oil on them will cause literally nothing.. chill out guys.
Ur a good teacher man. For the unexperienced to the experienced
Great video. I've done a couple in my time. A wire wheel will work on the gaskets too. But don't get carried away. It will damage/ remove the metal. Here is an update on my oil recovery system I saw you install. WOW. There is alot of oil that goes through there.
I have a 94 k2500 454 myself. Great Idea get ahead of problems. Instead of chacing them. Best vid on this subject I've found. Thanks
Brake fluid works great for softening gasket material, also used paint & epoxy stripper. Great job & explained VERY VERY WELL SIR. The only thing I would have done is to spray the crap out of it with carb. cleaner. THAT IS ONE CLEAN INTAKE & TBI FOR HOW OLD IT IS, WOW. Is this the vehicle you added the CATCH CAN TO ?
I used the B12 Chemdip from the parts store (1 gallon can) and a brass bristle brush. Worked great. I had to do some detail scraping from the crevaces but overall the Chemdip worked really well.
I just started fixing my 92 chevy, your videos have been really helpful. Thank you so much
Finally a legit video on tbi injection
I've got a 1992 chev c3500 that was parked for a year and a half. This video helped alot. I've replaced the TBI and IAC and the EGR and the fuel filter. Still wouldn't idle. So I'm going to do this now! Thanks for the info
Great video! I have a 94 Silverado 5.0, 384k original miles same engine. I recently thought I would spray some throttle body cleaner through the TBI. Well, it must've broke some crud loose and after that, it had a hesitation on the pedal. Thought maybe messed up a sensor, but no. So, I took apart the throttle body and did a deep clean. Bought the fuel pressure rebuild kit as I rebuilt the throttle body a few years ago. Spraying the throttle body while on the engine only does so much. After reinstalling, the hesitation has been cleared up. Not a difficult job to do at all. I too felt an increase in the throttle response! OH, I noticed you have an ANTI LOCK BRAKE light on. Mine failed several months ago. I disconnected wire for a while but went to the salvage yard and picked one up for $15. Problem solved! Gotta love working on your own stuff! Great sense of pride in your accomplishments.
Last week I changed out my spark plugs and cleaned my throttle body and my engine is purring now and I'm actually getting better gas mileage. My TB was pretty dirty.
I've owned many vehicles with the same TBI setup. I have to say it. This is in my opinion a very good design. It really seems to be more reliable than the TPI setup. Now yes, I will admit that the TPI does seem to have a little more output. But if you ask me - this system is by far the best way to go. It has that good Rochester Quadrajet look to it. Maintains good for reliability. Not to mention, if you ever get stuck on the side of the road, you can throw a carburetor on this design and be on your Merry way.
I rebuild carburetors and I have a 5 gallon pail of carburetor cleaner. I always put my carbs/throttle bodies in there usually overnight. The gaskets come off real easy. I have a '95 chevy Silverado that is like your Suburban, white with a blue interior. Thanks and take care.
I have a 1992 chevy s10 with the 2.8 v6 tbi. And to my knowledge, they never been cleaned. She got 200,100 miles. The truck was my old man's truck .We had her since 92.
Great job. You will maybe see an increase in fuel economy. It is good practice to put some clean towels in the intake as soon as you remove anything. Your hot start with heat soak will improve as the injectors will not leak and make the hot start too rich.
Thanks! I stuck my shop vac in there to get out anything that potentially fell in...
I use wide masking tape. Sometimes you may have to degrease surface first. Generally best to clean the engine before working on it unless it's already clean like Jimmy's.
@@x-man5056 VERY VERY GOOD INFO. IF YOU HAVE A DIRTY ENGINE, PRE-CLEAN & USE TAPE OVER HOLES.
@@NoWr2Run You can use paper towels or similar, just don't forget to remove all of them before reassembly.
I need to rebuild my carburetor. This video showed me everything I need to know. Very helpful. My confidence is very high on getting it done.
That new left injector though 😂 is dripping more than the old one
I noticed that too. Also hear other people go through the same thing after replacing with new injectors.
I'd try using a 9V battery to cycle the new injectors. Maybe this would correct it?!
what are you talking about cycle them with a 9v? @TheRds797
I have a 91 Chevy 4.3 L. Got off a friend, probably sat for a bit. When it’s cold it runs fine, however once warmed up it backfires through the throttlebody When accelerating at XRPM underload. Only does it in drive does, not do it in park. Has a new throttle position sensor or whatever it is it screws into the side of the throttlebody, has a new EGR valve, and a new air filter. I have not fully tuned it up yet. I also removed the catalytic converter and put on a new muffler.
Use a timing light in a dark garage to inspect injector pattern. Take off the fuel fittings before unbolting anything. The will both come out. Clean the old gasket with a good wire brush after soaking it with carb cleaner for about 15 minutes. Good job for a beginner though.
Hey man thank you for posting all these videos about the 5.7 tbi k1500 motor! I own a 95 Chevy and I’m definitely no mechanic but your videos most definitely make my job a thousand times easier by doing your videos! Thank you for taking the time to help people get stuff done right?
Oh btw when I replaced my idle air control my stupid clip broke too and I didn’t even hardly touch it.
@@matthewgralak-allen4962plastic and the heat don't mix. The plastic gets very brittle. Got a 72 Chevy El Camino and those plastic dashboards are insane if you need to take them apart.
The injecter pod looks like Roberto from Futurama. The crazy murder robot.
You did a helluva job and very detailed oriented! 👍
80's Ford guy mentioned using a timing light to check the spray pattern. You might be able to do the same thing with a LED flashlight, one that has two or three levels of brightness. I think the LEDs pulse quickly to reduce the brightness. Holding one under a water faucet totally changes the look of the water coming out because of the strobe effect. Now that I said this I'm going to try it tomorrow to see if I'm stupid or not. 😁
All LEDs strobe
@@AcmeAce for checking spray, the strobe needs the CORRECT strobe. Flashlights strobe/pulse differently at different brightness levels. That's what I was getting at.
Nice. I just got done servicing the tbi on my 87 GMC squarebody, running better than ever. 👍
I ordered the parts for the same job on my 1995 Suburban 7.4 L 4x4. this video was very well done and informative. thank you so much for detailed instruction, so many videos don't do what you do. Keep up the good work. I noticed your Hoyt Archery hat. Do you hunt?
Well explained, brilliant lighting and camera work. I've never seen this done before, worth watching for sure. I like your recognition of a placebo effect, it raises the auto repair genre to a higher level. When are you going to tackle that ABS light on your dash?
Man, I’ve gotta get that light fixed!!
Remove the bulb. Boom. Light fixed
@@1RoadGarage Probably a solder joint or trace on the ABS module circuit board...they fail all the time or its a wheel sensor.
@@kylefoxall4723 electrical tape over the display light is easier.
@@1RoadGaragedid you take your vehicle and have it smogged? My vehicle doesn't pass the smog test. The injector looked like it had dripping like the old injectors.
My 1987 s10 blazer 2.8 liter has had some performance issues on start up. Long crank time until firing and hesitation upon acceleration. After start up and engaging in load the engine would die. I have been working thru the problem with gas line filter change, new fuel, new spark plugs and throttle position sensor, o2 sensor was bad also. Engine runs well now but the long crank time until firing still persists. I am at the point of testing the fuel pump pressure and looking at the tbi injectors now. Thanks for your video.
This presentation was very clear and informative. His results was as expected. I'm hoping to get the same good results with my first-time service. Thank you. 2-thumbs Up!
Yes new fuel injectors make a huge difference
Great how-to! Thanks for detail DIY...
I'm going to have to perform this myself on my 93' buick roadmaster w/the LO5 5.7l. My buick is failing Emissions, running on th fat side. Tune-up time!🔧
Use blue lock tight on screw when putting it back nice job.
Very detailed. I’d like to do the same with out removing the entire TB
Good video. Tons of tips. I’ve been putting my rebuild off for far too long. Definitely feel more comfortable now after watching.
Nice job Jimmy, I do not often comment on DYI home films, but I really enjoyed your narrative and your to the point explanations. I am working on a TBI system and did not remove the throttle body base as you did. I just took of the top. I had not worked on this type fuel system before and I will say your film was very helpful. And more importantly, I actually enjoyed it and watched the entire film. (that seldom happens) Thank-you!
Greeting from Bangkok,,,,,l love your jobs. I have a G20 van 5.7 TBI 1992yr till now never tune up just put some gas and go, she on good shape. Thanks a lot,,,,
Good job I'm about to do my TBI on a 1984 fiero.thanks for the video.
Yes, pull the relay while it's running. And that was an open end wrench you showed, not box. A wrench with both box and open end is called a combination wrench.
Fine thread fasteners are almost always lower torque. The wrench Jimmy used to brake torque with was a little larger than what you'd want to use going back together. Why? Because you can easily apply excessive torque with a larger wrench. The throttle body is made of a softer metal alloy and with steel fasteners, it would be fairly easy to over torque and actually pull the threads from the casting (that would suck). The same with the 3 mount bolts into the manifold. Snug and a light tug, that's it. Best to use 1/4 drive wrench going back together.
One thing to keep in mind before you do this job is that the butterfly shaft in throttle body can wear and create a vacuum leak just like with a carburetor.
You can easily test for this condition by spraying carb cleaner at the shaft with the engine idling. If there is a vacuum leak at the shaft the engine will slow down when it sucks in the carb cleaner. This is a common problem on older vehicles.
@The devil is in the details Get a new throttle body. Tthey are not very expensive for most common applications.
Thanks for the video, I have a 91 c1500 that is original as far as I know. I have purchased the rebuild kit and I went with remanufactured injectors because this is just my truck for around the property and not a daily driver. I’m looking forward to seeing if it runs differently.
I usually keep my trucks close to stock with minimal upgrades for easy maintenance and future owners, saves from guessing. But one was on the tbi engines I have put a spiraled throttle body spacer in.
I just did the same on my 1995 2dr Chevy Tahoe and the upgrade is also nice video.
Good job brother. I just rebuilt my throttle body. Only difference is i damaged the fuel lines. So more work for me.. lol
Very good video, very clear, and very informative!!.as .I Will Follow Your Steps To the "T" .jus curious though how did you know what Overall Kit and what Injectors to purchase.?. How did you find this information ?, Does one go by the year, make, model, engine size of their vehicle or perhaps the GM Rochester TBI Identification number on the front side of the throttle body?..Any info you could provide, would be very very much appreciated! ty...
Wonderful video
I made a scraper that I can put a piece of copper in for a scraping Edge and it doesn't gouge aluminum. Works great. Give it a try!
i Liked your jumping into it and showing all that you did, as I may have to do it myself, with my '92 4.3 V-6 TBi.
Thanks heaps for this walk through. In time, I'll be needing to rebuild my TBI system.
Actually just did this, mine drips like yours I have a 95 , runs about the same maybe a little better power, sometimes it runs a little rough when it’s cold but smooth idle once it’s warm, tbi is very picky, great video
Yeah, TBI is not my favorite...
@@1RoadGarage you actually responded that’s cool, you do great keep up the good work I have beeen here since the beginning
For all in the know...it's probably best to do a full Idle Valve reset after an overhaul like this. These TBIs get wack once they start running rich and dripping fuel so the computer compensates by opening up the Idle Air Valve to max open. Sometimes they get stuck open (buildup, etc.). Rebuild the TBI, clean the Idle Air Valve (they hardly go bad), replace the Throttle Position Sensor (They are super cheap) then perform the Idle Valve relearn procedure. Your truck will be purring like the day it left the lot. Folks forget about the Idle Air Valve relearn procedure and wonder why their truck still runs like crap still. Oh and there is also that annoying thing called a fuel filter. If you are working on TBI rebuild then you can sure bet you need to change the fuel filter also on any piece with high miles.
yep, you can do it exactly as you discovered, remove those fittings itll pop right out, also the top of the pod can just be disconnected while still on the engine its the same proceedure you would use to do a rebuild or replacement of the regulator, would give you access to the injectors with the bottom half of the pod still connected
Not once did you use a can of Carb Cleaner and a tooth brush. WD-40 doesn't work to remove old gasket material. Carb Cleaner does ! And you don't use a Razor blade scraper. Like you said, "It will dig into the aluminum". You use a 1 1/2 inch wide stiff Putty knife. And scrape off the excess material. And you should make sure, to get rid of ALL, the excess gasket material. As when you put on the new gasket. It may not seal properly, because of the uneven surface ! As long as you tighten each screw, so it is SNUG. You will be fine. DO NOT tighten the screws. As in Crank on them. You will strip out the threads. It's Aluminum remember ! You can tighten down the 3 mounting bolts to 20 Inch pounds. But if you use some Hi Tach gasket Sealer from Permatex. Just Snug them down evenly. And you won't get any vacuum leaks. Proper Atomized fuel, gives you a much better throttle response. Than shooting drops of fuel into the engine. And you will get better gas mileage. Over all, your video was very descriptive and had really good detail. You showed each step very well. And your narrative was pretty darn good too ! No blurriness or jumpiness. A very good video Jimmy !
Nice work im gonna need to do the same in my 94 suburban.
That Spray pattern seems to be the same as before but new is new 👍
thank you for this video. it helped me to find my mistakes when I rebuilt my unit.
Get your self a slab of granet, which is perfectly flat, then get some stick back super fine sand paper and that will take those gaskets off like nothing and still keep the mating surfaces perfect
Should have used some gasket remover spray to soften and remove the gaskets. Then, (using some 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper and a piece of glass or mirror) lightly sand the gasket surfaces flat.
When I was cleaning off old gaskets I used two things, if I had time I used an acid bath. If I didn't have time I used the brass brush wheel on a dremel.
The video was great my TBI is just like yours 1995 Chevy Silverado 2500 4x4 7.4L, I can fix my own now and thank you, I've already replaced mine things on my engine,thank you
Tape ultra fine sandpaper onto your workbench and then slowly run it across the sandpaper to keep the sanding straight.
Going to use this vid to do mine. Acetone does wonders for removing gasket material. Thank you.
Great video Jimmy. Great explanation and great narration as well as just talking through what you're thinking about. That sounds redundant. I'm about to do this on my '95 Chevy 2500 pickup with 374K miles on it. I have high hopes.
i would've cleaned the whole thing really good as well make it look new
New gaskets plus tightening all the loose stuff down makes for a reduction in minuscule vacuum leaks where you didn’t know you may have had them, and where you definitely don’t want them. That makes for better vaporization of the atomized fuel. Simple stuff, often disregarded or overlooked (deliberately or not) - it’s these little things that all add up- in this case, I wouldn’t be surprised if you see an extra mpg or two in short order, mostly from crisper throttle response. (Your manifold gaskets could probably use replacing too, for a similar effect)
Why so many vacuum hose in car?