If you check the Blade Show 2024 video from a month ago you can see the sword. It looks amazing, but he said he still has a bunch of embellishments still to do. So he was still working on it at that point
From what I understand the edge finder just as it kicks out is where the reading is taken from. Love the channel and your work is absolutely in a field of its own. Beautiful work as always.
It is the correct way. Reason why is for the sake of repeatability. More specifically mechanical repeatability. The edge finder will always kick out at the same spot, whereas just lining it up to run on center can easily be misjudged.
to expand on the agreement of 'the measurement is from kick-out' as you do (is correct), the reason behind it is that the spring holding the tip tends to auto-centre the tip within a few thousandths, and even if it doesn't, by pushing it just past that static seated point you are verifying that you've found the limit of the true edge (repeatably accurate to ~0.001) because once they've "lined up" while spinning, they've only lined up 'by eye', while spinning (shadows / dirt / finger prints can all make you think something's lined up or not when it's doing 1000 rpm). Also if you're centre finding, you're measuring from both sides anyway, so as long as your procedure is the same on both sides it doesn't really matter. You can do it without waiting for kick-out, but that's usually done on softer materials, or where you're measuring up to a finished surface that you don't want to mar (in such a case you don't spin the edge finder, you just walk it in and feel for them to line up by hand / nail, as you'll be able to feel the mating of the barrels, accuracy within 0.0005). (because it always comes up, mech. eng. tech, head of R&D for cutting tool fab)
Kyle buy yourself a set of reamers if you want accuracy with hole diameters. By drilling 020" smaller and using a reamer to finish the hole you'll have a much more tightly fitting pommel nut
The edge finder is supposed to break from center when it's located (at least that's the way I was taught in school). A good rule of thumb for cutting on machines is to look for straw colored chips. Neat videos! Please keep on making them!
You can’t image how excited I was to see this video was 80 minutes long. I could watch Kyle working all day, he’s the absolute master of his craft. Keep ‘em coming please.
Hey there. Hi. Just like to say this is one of my favorite TH-cam channels you have great passion and show amazing enthusiasm in each of your projects and works of art. Hope all is well with you and the family. Looking forward to seeing how this one turned out. Hope to see and hear from you soon. God bless.
52:48 the collet isn't seated all the way into the holder. When you put the collet into the holder you need to angle it to get it passed the flange that keeps the collet from falling out. There is a small portion of the flange that is removed for clearance so when you tilt the collet it will slip into it.
As someone who has done some machine work, I can say there's an easier way to get center. .measure the width of both x and y axis using calipers or micrometer. Divide those in half. Find the edge using edge finder wherein doesn't move and zero out the axis. Measure your edge finder and Divide in half. Move that axis that distance towards the center and zero again. Then move that axis half of the width and zero again. You have center for that axis. Repeat for other axis.
You got a metal sliver in your finger last video next time that happens just go over to the surface grinder turn on the electric magnet and it will pull the sliver right out
I'm very disabled very homebound long story but I do like watching your show I wish I could go work in the shop again but that will never happen keep on doing what you're doing be nice 2 own one of your knives but that will never happen low income but keep making your shows I enjoy them PS show more your family your brother cameraman everybody else that makes it better
Tolong buat pisau yang berwarna warni. Seperti merah kuning hijau biru ungu orange dsb. Atau gabungan berbagai warna seperti pelangi. Aku bosan dengan pisau yang warnanya itu itu saja. Please 🙏🏻
You're such an inspiring creator. You've kept me going in life and with my knife making for so many years. I just wanted to say thank you for inspiring me and so many others.
If you check the Blade Show 2024 video from a month ago you can see the sword. It looks amazing, but he said he still has a bunch of embellishments still to do. So he was still working on it at that point
For boring the hole in the lathe, it is worth it to invest in little centerboring drills. They auto align to the center and contrary to the milling bits they leave an angled hole, so that the drill you use afterwards also gets pulled into the center. Also coolant is really good when drilling, just drip it down with a bottle or something
“Why do I keep thinking myself into these bad ideas?!” So we can watch you think your way out of them! Thanks, Royer family. I started watching these years ago for the insane “seeming” perfection of the Damascus patterns. Now that I can watch everything that goes into that “perfection” makes it so much more meaningful. Awesome vids
I can probably count the number of times I have commented on TH-cam videos on one hand, but Kyle’s work is exceptional! This is one of the rare times I can’t decide if I enjoy the process or product better. That being said, custom work commands a high price, as it should. I would love to see a KR drop-in blade for the CRK Sebenza 31 series. I don’t even care if it is scrap or combined damascus. With the CRK hardware being so consistent and the Sebenza series being so successful, I would think this could be a great way to subsidize the high end custom work, with a semi-custom entry. This would add a Gucci touch to the CRK for those who are already prepared higher end prices for knives, maybe not full custom but starting to dip their toes in the water. Anyway, one can dream! Thanks for what you do Kyle!
You should make a double fuller Gaboon Viper sword next. Their beautiful patterns with your Damascus tile style would be mind blowing. Top of the sword the tail of the viper, the hilt as the head. Maybe Fang guards. Just a thought
When drilling always start as small as possible/comfortable as you can go, and don't worry about sparing the oil it's the only protection you have from work hardening. It can get messy but of course a good thick oil can make a difference. Still for what it's worth you pulled it off marvelously. Keep up the great work.
Could you rig up an oiler for your mill? You could have a flexible lubricant tube going most of the way, with a stiff wire you could bend leading right to the edge of the end mill. Put a ball valve at the top to control the flow, and it will drip down the wire onto the work and keep you from having to constantly add lube. Just a thought.
Kyle....sir....I absolutely LOVE your builds. Checking for updates DAILY, man, lol. I just gotta put in the wish list you do a Katana, but a Kyle Royer style Katana that would put a lot of other people's Katana builds to sleep, lol. I can only imagine what one would look like if YOU did one.
I love that you are a fan of Chris at Clickspring, although we shouldn't be surprised. You could improve how well the pommel was mounted by pushing the tailstock against it. You wouldn't want the live centre digging into it of course, but if you had an intermediate disk that was thick enough to be centre-drilled, and CA glued that disk to the pommel, you'd have both lateral and torsional support.
The first two years of my toolmaker apprenticeship were at the Ford Apprentice Training School at Harrold Hill in Essex UK. During that time they bussed us to a safety museum in London where saw some horrific pictures. One that has stayed with me was a finger, with 12" of tendon and muscle, that had been ripped off someone's hand while they were polishing a shaft on a lathe. They had had emery rapped round the shaft, and around the finger for good purchase, and the emery cloth had gripped the shaft and wrenched the finger out of his hand. Gruesome, but it did the trick.
BTW,, I have stopped at 11:06 when it looks like you are about to drill into the pommel with an end mill. You need a slot drill to do that. They are usually two fluted to the end mill's four flutes. It looks like it worked OK though. Did that end mill have a recess in it's centre, or cutting edge right across?
might be a good idea to get a drill speed chart because from my experience such a small it should spin way faster. about 12 years ago i did a internship at a metal shop and was drilling 30mm holes with a faster turn speed then that and the chips where blue from the heat. so this is way to slow even for carbon steel and it should not make that terrible noise 😉 added note if your hole is triangular it has probably some thing to do with how you sharpened the bit i had that happen a lot when i was learning i used to drill a ton of holes in scrap metal to get it right. i have never seen split tip on such small bits though i only did it on 15mm and up biggest bit i sharpened was wider then the sharpening stone back in my high school days🤪
If you had a four jaw chuck on your lathe vs a three jaw chuck you could indicate the part in to be perfectly on center and that would solve the runout problem when rechecking.
The hole on the pommel nut could be used to attach a tassel of some kind. Don't know if that goes with you're design, but it seems like a thing to do. It's not like it's an Irish Ring pommel where the hole is the point, after all.
4 jaw chuck and clock it or soft jaws machined to suit, perhaps just proper coolant not tapping oil will stop the work hardening, then you will with practice get very nice finishes and less work, and think of using a running center on the tail stock to support the workpiece
I have turned large round pieces that was not even in the jaws. It had a tiny center hole so I just use the pressure of a live center to hold it against the jaws. I bet money you could glue a short 3/4 round to the center and drill a center hole in it for the tailstock to add a little more stability if you need to turn something like that in the future. Amazing what little bit will cause or prevent chatter when turning.
You definitely should buy a good precision lathe. Then buy a quality 3 jaw chuck, 4 jaw chuck, a collet chuck, and a mag chuck. With those four chucks, you can do just about anything. A mag chucks are much safer than relying on ca glue on larger parts like that pommel. You also really should get a couple good sets of drill bits. One set should be solid tungsten carbide drill bits. Then, you should buy additional drill bits in your most commonly used sizes. Even though you can resharpen them, it greatly slows you down if you have to stop and do that.
Kyle, what's happening with the griffin sword?? It's been so long, we need to know now please! Even if it's bad news I'm sure everyone will be as supportive as it's possible to be through the internet 🤷♂️👍👍👍
I've been watching this build every night for 2 weeks. (I watch while I'm going to bed) Anyways, I thought this video was the end.... And it's not! Where is the ending?!?!? Etching the blade and all spacers and the pommel... Gold inlays!? 😭😭😭 You're killing me smalls. Please show us the ending!
Pro tip: You can add way more cutting oil/compound further up on the drill bit, this allows it to slowly flow down the drill bit as you're drilling, and especially as it heats up along the way. This works even better with more solid wax like cutting compounds like trefolex and others, that will apply in a thick layer and slowly melt when heating up.
Love the vids. Its cool to see the project coming together over such a long time. Looking forward to seeing the final result. What are you plans for dealing with the hole through the centre of the pommel? you didn't seem to stressed out about it, which makes me think you have a plan. Or you always intended to drill though the centre of the pommel anyway?
You put a lot of thought into your shop. Would you consider a short video walking us around and showing the details? Vader, for instance. The little bits of art here and there, stuff like that.
10:08 - i'm a machinist. that is the correct way to use an edge finder. the one you're using has a diameter of 0.200". when it kicks off-center, you are 0.100" away from the edge of your part.
When grinding the bevel onto the pommel you could have clamped a backstop onto the work rest to prevent the belt sucking the piece in too far and ensure accuracy of the final depth. Might make your life a bit easier if you do something similar in future
I'm a polymechaninc and to confirm 10:26 yes that is the right way it has to go till it moves to the side. And i don't understant why you coulden't just put the pamul in the chuk instead of gluing it. Can you pleas explaine?
Your edge finder needs to be replaced, they are relatively cheap and when you get a new one, you will see the 'pop' a lot more clearly. Because yours has some play you are seeing it act that way, you are absolutely spot on about nudging it forward .0001 thou at a time until it clearly breaks evenness. Also, you want less contact on the head of the edge finder to the part, the more contact you have wears the tool out quicker which is why i think you have the slight wobble after you have hit the edge of the part instead of the obvious wobble you should be seeing. Note: the ball style wigglers/edge finders are even easier to see the pop.
Have been following your Journey an love watching you work, your videos are always entertaining an educational, this one seemed different in a good way, keep up the awesome work.
Long time listener…first time caller. Love your work - and the whole vibe of your channel. Just a weird question/observation. When you went to turn the pommel nut on the milling machine - It looked almost like the shavings coming off your pommel nut were covered in Dye-Chem but also had gold in them - but there was no dye-chem on the piece…is that because the heat generated from shaving the metal is actually turning the Shavings gold and blue - kind of like when you’ve used a torch to heat-treat or soften a spine or a tang in other videos? I know totally random…but new to me. Keep up the amazing work. I get to forge vicariously through watching these videos. Cheers Royer Fam!!
10:22 it does not really matter if You doin' it that way or the other - as long as You do it always on both touches the same way, the reading in between the 2 points will be the same. Same if You use a stripe of paper to touch both sides directly with the cutting tool: it doesn't matter if the used paper is thick or thin (or how thick it really is) - as long as You use the same paper for both sides of the touch, the "unknown factor" of the paper will compensate itself.
What are you plans for dealing with the hole through the centre of the pommel? you didn't seem too stressed out about it, which makes me think you have a plan. Or you always intended to drill though the centre of the pommel anyway?
Most take it like you to the point it kicks out, however if you're looking to find the center the only thing important is you go to the same point on each side.
Machinist here. You are using your edge finder the right way in order to find the true center of your part. One other way is to touch off one side and move over towards the center of your part by the half of the part PLUS 0.100" for your edge finder offset.
29:45 that is a jumping spider and they are not venomous or dangerous to humans whatsoever, it's really rare to be bitten by one. And even if you do it won't hurt more than a bite from an ant. Because they only bite on smaller prey like flies, they have perceptive intelligence. Yes, they are fast enough to catch flies sitting washing their legs. It's one of the only spiders that hunt in daylight and sleeps in the night just like humans. Also the only spider that can look 4 to 6 meters away because of their telescopic eyes. It always turns their body towards the point of attention, in this case you looking at it! They are really scared of other jumping spider species and avoid them really fast, but weirdly enough a big human or other strange objects sliding towards them they don't pick up as dangerous.
If people were to watch all these vids of the making of this sword, they would understand why it is so expensive! And they would appreciate all the time and precision that goes into making it! 🤔😱😁
Hey man, I have watched most of your videos and which are very interesting and a nice learning point for me. Why not challenge yourself with something new, I saw you never made a Japanese Katana, why not try something like that it would be a nice learning experience for you and an interesting video too.
edge finding you take the reading just as soon as it walks to one side. Like you are doing. Or that is how I was taught when taking machine tooling classes in the 90's
Incredible up close shots from Josh! your videos are on another level now... curious what your plan is for the "oil hole".. is that just going to be filled in with gold inlay?
I might have missed the point here but that sword isn't finished (unless it's for someone with a Lego claw for a hand) - when do you think it might be finished and the last video out?
I was hoping to get more footage of that jumping spider (Phidippus audax aka bold jumping spider) when I saw him in the background of the "day 56" screen. Smart little critters and pretty much harmless to humans.
😊ok man it's been 2 months now please give us the finished sword 🎉🎉
If you check the Blade Show 2024 video from a month ago you can see the sword. It looks amazing, but he said he still has a bunch of embellishments still to do. So he was still working on it at that point
@@MomoSanjiOP that video is 2 hours 45 minutes long, where in the video is the sword? thanks
now its been 4 month
Now 5
@@ShevonFernando-ni1we Now 6 months.. zomg where is the sword!
From what I understand the edge finder just as it kicks out is where the reading is taken from. Love the channel and your work is absolutely in a field of its own. Beautiful work as always.
That's what I was always taught as well, by several machinists.
It is the correct way. Reason why is for the sake of repeatability. More specifically mechanical repeatability. The edge finder will always kick out at the same spot, whereas just lining it up to run on center can easily be misjudged.
Yup that's how they work
As a cnc/vmc operator Kyle did it right.
to expand on the agreement of 'the measurement is from kick-out' as you do (is correct), the reason behind it is that the spring holding the tip tends to auto-centre the tip within a few thousandths, and even if it doesn't, by pushing it just past that static seated point you are verifying that you've found the limit of the true edge (repeatably accurate to ~0.001) because once they've "lined up" while spinning, they've only lined up 'by eye', while spinning (shadows / dirt / finger prints can all make you think something's lined up or not when it's doing 1000 rpm). Also if you're centre finding, you're measuring from both sides anyway, so as long as your procedure is the same on both sides it doesn't really matter.
You can do it without waiting for kick-out, but that's usually done on softer materials, or where you're measuring up to a finished surface that you don't want to mar (in such a case you don't spin the edge finder, you just walk it in and feel for them to line up by hand / nail, as you'll be able to feel the mating of the barrels, accuracy within 0.0005).
(because it always comes up, mech. eng. tech, head of R&D for cutting tool fab)
You are a mad man! That is the oddest way to mount a wheel pommel I have ever seen! Crazy!
dumb or crazy. Imo just inexperience with swords is all, nothing more.
@@fettmaneiii4439 not dumb. Solved the issue. Just in a super complex way.
Love the ClickSpring shout out, it’s the channel that got me into machine work
We need a ClickSpring x Kyle crossover episode!
I just watched this entire playlist and I need to see the finished product. This is brutal
Kyle buy yourself a set of reamers if you want accuracy with hole diameters. By drilling 020" smaller and using a reamer to finish the hole you'll have a much more tightly fitting pommel nut
The edge finder is supposed to break from center when it's located (at least that's the way I was taught in school). A good rule of thumb for cutting on machines is to look for straw colored chips.
Neat videos! Please keep on making them!
You can’t image how excited I was to see this video was 80 minutes long. I could watch Kyle working all day, he’s the absolute master of his craft. Keep ‘em coming please.
I've never been so nervous watching you perform your magic. You're truly the best! Whomever gets this masterpiece is one lucky soul!
Hey there. Hi. Just like to say this is one of my favorite TH-cam channels you have great passion and show amazing enthusiasm in each of your projects and works of art. Hope all is well with you and the family. Looking forward to seeing how this one turned out. Hope to see and hear from you soon. God bless.
Kyle, when are we going to see the finished product?
52:48 the collet isn't seated all the way into the holder. When you put the collet into the holder you need to angle it to get it passed the flange that keeps the collet from falling out. There is a small portion of the flange that is removed for clearance so when you tilt the collet it will slip into it.
WOBBLER CENTER FINDER!... YOU ARE USING IT CORRECTLY!!👍👍 ABSOLUTELY BEAUTIFUL KNIFE'S, SWORDS AND EVERYTHING ELSE YOU MAKE!!
As someone who has done some machine work, I can say there's an easier way to get center. .measure the width of both x and y axis using calipers or micrometer. Divide those in half. Find the edge using edge finder wherein doesn't move and zero out the axis. Measure your edge finder and Divide in half. Move that axis that distance towards the center and zero again. Then move that axis half of the width and zero again. You have center for that axis. Repeat for other axis.
You got a metal sliver in your finger last video next time that happens just go over to the surface grinder turn on the electric magnet and it will pull the sliver right out
Sounds legit. Of course I imagine laying your finger down the wrong way, sucking it deeper and out the other side.
True, but it might also tear the skin a lot more
@@gv100_blitz very true but it'll be faster
I'm very disabled very homebound long story but I do like watching your show I wish I could go work in the shop again but that will never happen keep on doing what you're doing be nice 2 own one of your knives but that will never happen low income but keep making your shows I enjoy them PS show more your family your brother cameraman everybody else that makes it better
Tolong buat pisau yang berwarna warni.
Seperti merah kuning hijau biru ungu orange dsb. Atau gabungan berbagai warna seperti pelangi.
Aku bosan dengan pisau yang warnanya itu itu saja.
Please 🙏🏻
You're such an inspiring creator. You've kept me going in life and with my knife making for so many years. I just wanted to say thank you for inspiring me and so many others.
Good day Kyle when will we be able to see the Griffin Sword when it is complete?
What’s going on with this project? It’s been a long while with no updates! Hope all is well… 😬
If you check the Blade Show 2024 video from a month ago you can see the sword. It looks amazing, but he said he still has a bunch of embellishments still to do. So he was still working on it at that point
I think he fked it up, blade probably cracked its been 6 months the now
Please tell me you lost the 21 hour video where you shaped the handle!
That's awesome you mentioned Clickspring! I am always mesmerized when he turns down parts on the lathe. lol
For boring the hole in the lathe, it is worth it to invest in little centerboring drills. They auto align to the center and contrary to the milling bits they leave an angled hole, so that the drill you use afterwards also gets pulled into the center. Also coolant is really good when drilling, just drip it down with a bottle or something
“Why do I keep thinking myself into these bad ideas?!” So we can watch you think your way out of them! Thanks, Royer family. I started watching these years ago for the insane “seeming” perfection of the Damascus patterns. Now that I can watch everything that goes into that “perfection” makes it so much more meaningful. Awesome vids
If you guys want, check out our membership and learn from me how to make really cool knives. Click the link to save $80 www.learnknifemaking.com/
I can probably count the number of times I have commented on TH-cam videos on one hand, but Kyle’s work is exceptional! This is one of the rare times I can’t decide if I enjoy the process or product better. That being said, custom work commands a high price, as it should. I would love to see a KR drop-in blade for the CRK Sebenza 31 series. I don’t even care if it is scrap or combined damascus. With the CRK hardware being so consistent and the Sebenza series being so successful, I would think this could be a great way to subsidize the high end custom work, with a semi-custom entry. This would add a Gucci touch to the CRK for those who are already prepared higher end prices for knives, maybe not full custom but starting to dip their toes in the water. Anyway, one can dream! Thanks for what you do Kyle!
You should make a double fuller
Gaboon Viper sword next.
Their beautiful patterns with your Damascus tile style would be mind blowing.
Top of the sword the tail of the viper, the hilt as the head. Maybe Fang guards.
Just a thought
next level everytime. The best blade smith ever. This isn't tiktok, its craftmanship.
When drilling always start as small as possible/comfortable as you can go, and don't worry about sparing the oil it's the only protection you have from work hardening. It can get messy but of course a good thick oil can make a difference. Still for what it's worth you pulled it off marvelously. Keep up the great work.
Could you rig up an oiler for your mill? You could have a flexible lubricant tube going most of the way, with a stiff wire you could bend leading right to the edge of the end mill. Put a ball valve at the top to control the flow, and it will drip down the wire onto the work and keep you from having to constantly add lube. Just a thought.
Kyle....sir....I absolutely LOVE your builds. Checking for updates DAILY, man, lol. I just gotta put in the wish list you do a Katana, but a Kyle Royer style Katana that would put a lot of other people's Katana builds to sleep, lol. I can only imagine what one would look like if YOU did one.
I love that you are a fan of Chris at Clickspring, although we shouldn't be surprised. You could improve how well the pommel was mounted by pushing the tailstock against it. You wouldn't want the live centre digging into it of course, but if you had an intermediate disk that was thick enough to be centre-drilled, and CA glued that disk to the pommel, you'd have both lateral and torsional support.
The first two years of my toolmaker apprenticeship were at the Ford Apprentice Training School at Harrold Hill in Essex UK. During that time they bussed us to a safety museum in London where saw some horrific pictures. One that has stayed with me was a finger, with 12" of tendon and muscle, that had been ripped off someone's hand while they were polishing a shaft on a lathe. They had had emery rapped round the shaft, and around the finger for good purchase, and the emery cloth had gripped the shaft and wrenched the finger out of his hand. Gruesome, but it did the trick.
BTW,, I have stopped at 11:06 when it looks like you are about to drill into the pommel with an end mill. You need a slot drill to do that. They are usually two fluted to the end mill's four flutes. It looks like it worked OK though. Did that end mill have a recess in it's centre, or cutting edge right across?
@@TrevorDennis100 Yeah. I'd go with the twist drills first, than maybe use an end mill as a reamer.
I love the shape of the pommel- the polished look is awesome, but I really want to see the etch on the finished product.
I hope we can etch it within 4 months!
24:38 you should be able to use your drill press arbor as a parallel guide for the tap wrech.
You are correct on how to use the edge finder. Normally I will back off a few thousands once setting my zero then double checking my DRO for zeri
might be a good idea to get a drill speed chart because from my experience such a small it should spin way faster. about 12 years ago i did a internship at a metal shop and was drilling 30mm holes with a faster turn speed then that and the chips where blue from the heat. so this is way to slow even for carbon steel and it should not make that terrible noise 😉 added note if your hole is triangular it has probably some thing to do with how you sharpened the bit i had that happen a lot when i was learning i used to drill a ton of holes in scrap metal to get it right. i have never seen split tip on such small bits though i only did it on 15mm and up biggest bit i sharpened was wider then the sharpening stone back in my high school days🤪
If you had a four jaw chuck on your lathe vs a three jaw chuck you could indicate the part in to be perfectly on center and that would solve the runout problem when rechecking.
You could use the tail stock with a centre to put that puck in the centre and hold it untill the glue sets.
The hole on the pommel nut could be used to attach a tassel of some kind. Don't know if that goes with you're design, but it seems like a thing to do. It's not like it's an Irish Ring pommel where the hole is the point, after all.
4 jaw chuck and clock it or soft jaws machined to suit, perhaps just proper coolant not tapping oil will stop the work hardening, then you will with practice get very nice finishes and less work, and think of using a running center on the tail stock to support the workpiece
I have turned large round pieces that was not even in the jaws. It had a tiny center hole so I just use the pressure of a live center to hold it against the jaws. I bet money you could glue a short 3/4 round to the center and drill a center hole in it for the tailstock to add a little more stability if you need to turn something like that in the future. Amazing what little bit will cause or prevent chatter when turning.
You definitely should buy a good precision lathe. Then buy a quality 3 jaw chuck, 4 jaw chuck, a collet chuck, and a mag chuck. With those four chucks, you can do just about anything. A mag chucks are much safer than relying on ca glue on larger parts like that pommel. You also really should get a couple good sets of drill bits. One set should be solid tungsten carbide drill bits. Then, you should buy additional drill bits in your most commonly used sizes. Even though you can resharpen them, it greatly slows you down if you have to stop and do that.
Kyle, what's happening with the griffin sword??
It's been so long, we need to know now please!
Even if it's bad news I'm sure everyone will be as supportive as it's possible to be through the internet 🤷♂️👍👍👍
I've been watching this build every night for 2 weeks. (I watch while I'm going to bed) Anyways, I thought this video was the end.... And it's not! Where is the ending?!?!? Etching the blade and all spacers and the pommel... Gold inlays!? 😭😭😭 You're killing me smalls. Please show us the ending!
Pro tip: You can add way more cutting oil/compound further up on the drill bit, this allows it to slowly flow down the drill bit as you're drilling, and especially as it heats up along the way.
This works even better with more solid wax like cutting compounds like trefolex and others, that will apply in a thick layer and slowly melt when heating up.
This guy has incredible talent, but honestly I'm really disappointed that I spent hours watching this goof to not see the final product.
When,s the next video??? Im dying to see this sword finished🤗
Love the vids. Its cool to see the project coming together over such a long time.
Looking forward to seeing the final result.
What are you plans for dealing with the hole through the centre of the pommel? you didn't seem to stressed out about it, which makes me think you have a plan. Or you always intended to drill though the centre of the pommel anyway?
You put a lot of thought into your shop. Would you consider a short video walking us around and showing the details? Vader, for instance. The little bits of art here and there, stuff like that.
10:08 - i'm a machinist. that is the correct way to use an edge finder. the one you're using has a diameter of 0.200". when it kicks off-center, you are 0.100" away from the edge of your part.
You could have sandwiched the pommel with round block of wood held in place by the tail stock to hold the pommel and mitigate the part flying.
Jumping spiders are total cuties! Totally harmless and apparently make great pets 🤣
When grinding the bevel onto the pommel you could have clamped a backstop onto the work rest to prevent the belt sucking the piece in too far and ensure accuracy of the final depth. Might make your life a bit easier if you do something similar in future
Kyle, you’ve got to do something about that tailstock on your lathe😮 that made me so nervous😅😅😅 or maybe upgrade to a 4 jaw chuck and new tail stock
I'm a polymechaninc and to confirm 10:26 yes that is the right way it has to go till it moves to the side. And i don't understant why you coulden't just put the pamul in the chuk instead of gluing it. Can you pleas explaine?
My guess was so that he could do it all in one pass. Instead of flipping the part
@IanZainea1990 yes i also think that was it. It's just a strange technique
Saludos desde Cuba
Your edge finder needs to be replaced, they are relatively cheap and when you get a new one, you will see the 'pop' a lot more clearly. Because yours has some play you are seeing it act that way, you are absolutely spot on about nudging it forward .0001 thou at a time until it clearly breaks evenness. Also, you want less contact on the head of the edge finder to the part, the more contact you have wears the tool out quicker which is why i think you have the slight wobble after you have hit the edge of the part instead of the obvious wobble you should be seeing.
Note: the ball style wigglers/edge finders are even easier to see the pop.
I prefer the wiggler myself.
Dude, Are you going to finish the Griffin Sword? I've been waiting months for an update. Geezus!
Check out my instagram story for Griffin update. @kyleroyerknives
@@KyleRoyerKnives Is it only on Instagram? I have watched all the griffin videos and now cannot see the final as I do not use instagram..
@@carlh296 same
Kyle is the MVP of ABS master smiths.
In norway we call the mill centering tool vinglepikk which translates to wiggledick.
you are correct Kyle, do you want the center to gust offset and that's perfect
Have been following your Journey an love watching you work, your videos are always entertaining an educational, this one seemed different in a good way, keep up the awesome work.
Its 6 months now ! Are we ever getting an update!??
Very cool lil jumping spider. Phidippus audax if I’m not mistaken, aka the bold jumping spider.
Looks like to me. I have a couple I keep as pets! They are very intelligent little things!
Hey Kyle, would you do a future video on how to sharpen drill bits on a belt grinder?
Maybe you wanna buy some high quality carbide bits for those holes in very hard steel, they are fragile but cut much better
You are correct, using an edgefinder you will move it until it kicks out.
Long time listener…first time caller. Love your work - and the whole vibe of your channel. Just a weird question/observation. When you went to turn the pommel nut on the milling machine - It looked almost like the shavings coming off your pommel nut were covered in Dye-Chem but also had gold in them - but there was no dye-chem on the piece…is that because the heat generated from shaving the metal is actually turning the Shavings gold and blue - kind of like when you’ve used a torch to heat-treat or soften a spine or a tang in other videos? I know totally random…but new to me. Keep up the amazing work. I get to forge vicariously through watching these videos. Cheers Royer Fam!!
10:22 it does not really matter if You doin' it that way or the other - as long as You do it always on both touches the same way, the reading in between the 2 points will be the same.
Same if You use a stripe of paper to touch both sides directly with the cutting tool: it doesn't matter if the used paper is thick or thin (or how thick it really is) - as long as You use the same paper for both sides of the touch, the "unknown factor" of the paper will compensate itself.
Great progress! Would be cool if you did a collab with a guitar maker, i.e. damascus bridge, tuning pegs, ferrels, maybe even a scratch plate, etc.
What are you plans for dealing with the hole through the centre of the pommel? you didn't seem too stressed out about it, which makes me think you have a plan. Or you always intended to drill though the centre of the pommel anyway?
The pommel is leaking? In the middle? Congratulations, you are the proud father of a girl ❤😂
Amazing problem-solving. Loved it.
I literally check my feed everyday hoping that you have posted a new video! Love everything in this channel
Most take it like you to the point it kicks out, however if you're looking to find the center the only thing important is you go to the same point on each side.
Fyi, that final tool you were using in the mill is specifically for a woodruff key, a semi-circular key
When will you show the last (assembly) part?
inlay gold into the hole in the pomel to fill/hide it?
Machinist here. You are using your edge finder the right way in order to find the true center of your part.
One other way is to touch off one side and move over towards the center of your part by the half of the part PLUS 0.100" for your edge finder offset.
I honestly thought you were joking about the glue trick in the lathe.. never seen that before. Crazy how strong modern glues are.
29:45 that is a jumping spider and they are not venomous or dangerous to humans whatsoever, it's really rare to be bitten by one. And even if you do it won't hurt more than a bite from an ant. Because they only bite on smaller prey like flies, they have perceptive intelligence. Yes, they are fast enough to catch flies sitting washing their legs. It's one of the only spiders that hunt in daylight and sleeps in the night just like humans. Also the only spider that can look 4 to 6 meters away because of their telescopic eyes. It always turns their body towards the point of attention, in this case you looking at it! They are really scared of other jumping spider species and avoid them really fast, but weirdly enough a big human or other strange objects sliding towards them they don't pick up as dangerous.
The shots of that spider at 29:20 were fantastic, proper cute looking thing!
Bold jumping spider
@@anthonymurphy5410 I think so, looks like one. tricky to tell without seeing the back.
you can see the intelligence of the jumping spider in it's eyes.
Definitly a jumping spider. The only species that is build like that. And no, they are not poisonous to humans. Do actually also make nice pets
If people were to watch all these vids of the making of this sword, they would understand why it is so expensive! And they would appreciate all the time and precision that goes into making it! 🤔😱😁
Hey man, I have watched most of your videos and which are very interesting and a nice learning point for me. Why not challenge yourself with something new, I saw you never made a Japanese Katana, why not try something like that it would be a nice learning experience for you and an interesting video too.
Could you show us how you balance a sword or dagger please?
Are you using carbide drill bits. If not you need to try it.
Just wondering how long will the Griffin shirt be on sale for? I don't want to miss out!
I love you're attention to detail.
Are you going to do your gold inlay, or anything else with the handle?
Huge fan of both you and @clickspring. You both have incredible attention to detail and perfection! Looking amazing as always!
What happened to the finished gold inlay and all the other work for the handle
Waiting for your next sword clip. When do you upload it?
Are we getting the finishing videos ???
edge finding you take the reading just as soon as it walks to one side. Like you are doing. Or that is how I was taught when taking machine tooling classes in the 90's
Yo man, whats the update to this project? You can’t leave us in the lurch like this !!
Curious how you establish your speeds and feeds for these materials?
Incredible up close shots from Josh! your videos are on another level now... curious what your plan is for the "oil hole".. is that just going to be filled in with gold inlay?
If you're getting those super-stringy chips, you should increase your spindle speed and/or feedrate.
Kyle!!! Please come back! 😭🙏
Is this the final video for this sword?
I might have missed the point here but that sword isn't finished (unless it's for someone with a Lego claw for a hand) - when do you think it might be finished and the last video out?
I was hoping to get more footage of that jumping spider (Phidippus audax aka bold jumping spider) when I saw him in the background of the "day 56" screen. Smart little critters and pretty much harmless to humans.