not one of the best, but a decent motor, more worth than what most people say about them but they need their early general servicing to keep them long going that's for sure. I'm subbed to your stuff now mate... I can see that little fire burning inside you now wanting to find more adventure and I love finding people with that passion as that's exactly how mine started. Good luck with all your future trips.
@@AllTerrainAction yeah, right on the money about the early servicing! That’s exactly where I’m at right now man, just dying to get out and explore Aus further 👍
Spoilers. Bloody good result. When you said how easy this motor starts makes me think this was hiding in plain sight for a long while in the broken motor and in a way is a testament to the durability to these motors that have such a bad wrap.
@@that_crankytf9571 yeah got all that this video isn't very comprehensive as motor mechanics bores people (that's for another video) so didn't want people to get too bored quickly but for those are interested in the details genuine bosch injectors, new Iridium plugs, new mace ignition coils, new thermostat, new power steering pump and bringing only my ac compressor and alternator as they were changed under 12 month ago. Any seal that can be changed in this process will be changed - I was going to get new 210 cams from mace, but I don't have the cash to do that and get it tuned as well to earn the benefits... plus who knows we might learn the lifter springs are cacus and I'd be better putting the money there -- if in the long future I'm inclined I could just pull the cam covers off and swap the cams do lifters/springs etc as now I know it can be done w/o removing the timing cover on the front. While everything was off, any accessible oil gallery had a air pressure hose pushed through with wd40 before final clean up and as much sludge has been evacuated.
@@that_crankytf9571 haha, yeah the fuel tank needs a cover -- just another item for the list of, if i ever have time. Next major thing I'm working on is fully sealing snorkel install as it was fine for sand/cooler air from top, light water crossing - we are considering doing to cape york next year so need to focus on making sure its as sealed as can be especially after this little operation over the last month.
It may have been overheating due to running lean because of the air leak as well although sand may have got sucked into where the air leak was. Sticking a bore o scope which you can plug into your smartphone into the cylinders through the spark plug hole could tell you if the cylinders were damaged & had sand in them !
Yeah, I was going to buy one of those but decided why not just take the heads off later on a video and share how much destruction we created in the sand. It could be a take it back 20thou put slightly larger pistons in, some 210 mace cams, and get it together for a spare, might make just under 300hp N/A with a tune and some better breathing, yeah i know.. not really worth spending money on these engines when you can get so much more out of an LS1 but its more about the project itself. All ideas though.. gotta get our LS1 Adventra ready for Cape before that, next wagon to back into the shed when my one drives out.
Half the alloytech motors I've seen eventually get this timing chain fault. Most come in with sludge all over from neglect. Maybe a fully synthetic oil may cope with the high temps in your case? From memory they recommend 5w-30. You could run a 10w-40? I wouldn't use diesel oil in a petrol long term in a non-race car, their is some evidence that the high zinc can contribute to cylinder glazing.
Never heard about the high zinc leading to bore glazing, know many alloytec owners to use it for many thouthands of kilometers some taking ownership at 200k and been well over 400k now with still a very working engine but that's not to say what you say is wrong, I normally run nulon 5w-30 diesel synthetic once every 2 oil changes and Castrol EDGE Synthetic 5W-30 any other time.
Haha I wish only a learner have a great support network of people who have definitely helped answer questions I’ve had to ask to get the job done, keen as to take the head off the old engine and check out the damage on the old one for a bit of an assessment, no real point in rebuilding that unless I wanted to maybe try and build a 300hp n/a alloytec 😂 not likely though as I now have an LS1 adventra that’s gotta be backed in next to bring it up to road spec, possibly try my hand at the 4L60 to 6L80 conversion some other adventra and cross crewman owners have managed to do.
Awesome video mate! I got the same engine as yours, was wondering if you can help out and show how you remove the crank pulley(harmonic balancer) out. And does your pulley has a keyway? Need to buy parts for my engine but unfortunately the dealership needs to know if my crank pulley has key or not. Would really appreciate your reply. Cheers always!
Suspicion is glazed bores explain increased pressure venting, oil back into the intake via PCV, use in oil, and also increase in engine temperature. How it happened also makes sense since we saw sand on the top of some of the lifters. I will know with more certainty once I've gotten everything finished, I'll pull the head off the old engine for an assessment. Could be wrong though but head gaskets very rarely go in these (from what I am told) and we never overheated on the trip so just strange spikes in temps that is not part of the normal to operation I usually see on the ScanGauage we normally ~ 98-108c spikes of 115 here and there that would come and go on the highway alloytecs are avg 103-105c temps for normal operation, given all signs progressively becoming worse that's our initial suspicion.
@@GS-kh5se I didn't I have my reasons and I've not had an issue following my own reason. I always pull and soak mine, air pressure to make sure its clear every service - that's every 7-8k's of its life, since the first few cleans its now always been clean and through. If it collects anything now and blocks it, indicator something is up inside the engine and I'll probably do a flush - I understand increasing the size is a GM adjustment in later alloytecs but this is probably because they want more room for lack of maintenance which I am generally not about. If its clear its fine and I did not suffer from low oil pressure and the resulting timing chain issue before and mine was fine from 165k to 270k in my ownership of 6 years.
just a thought chris ,a lot of rust up onthe top should have been covered in old oil, I wonder if rust in bores that the valves would have been open on cheers
Unless I've missunderstood this (or the process somewhere) I can't see how rust could be in the cylinder bore, when intake is open only risk for moisture in is via in the intake valley and when the exhaust is open extractor side only. Anything in the heads under the cam cover has no real way of making it into the bores - unless somehow water has entered via intake and has sat inside then there is a possibility in which case the engine will not last for very long after its started before showing signs of loss of compression. The only real way to know the answer of this would be to take the heads off but the bolts are torque to yield so I'd need to get replacements as well as a gasket, I did consider just swaping my heads off mine to this engine and that's how I know about that - I don't think there will be but if this ends up been the case, it will be sad news haha. Defaintley not seized though, otherwise I'd have had no chance to turn crank to do timing chain. Time will tell... lets hope not though otherwise maybe when I take the heads off my original engine (to find out what actually happened) take 20thou off the sides at a local engine machinist and get slightly larger pistons and rebuild the old one but lets hope we don't need to go there...
@@AllTerrainAction yep will be interesting motors do not like dust or dirt can be damaged in a very short time any way hope to see the gray wagon on the road soon
@@peterjones3177 thats the hope.. LOL. Still peering out my window everytime I hear the postie.. hoping for my pickup seal to arrive. Worried it wont arrive by weeks end now... truly want it in and running by end of this weekend!
@@AllTerrainActionThere was obviously water in the top of the heads and there is always valves partially open - straight down the valve stem / oil galleries so the water would be in the block too. Pretty basic stuff
Amazing that all parts are genuine GM. I have a Holden Commodore here in Brazil, and the parts, besides being very expensive, are hard to get. I have my alloytec stopped due to lack of lubrication. Unfortunately I can't find good quality parts. 😥🇧🇷🇦🇺🦘
@@AllTerrainAction here Holden came like the Chevrolet Omega. only in versions 3.8 and 3.6 ligatec and in 2010/2011 Direct inspiration. Do you have any guarantee of online sale of GM parts similar to the video? I will have my ligatec rectified, unfortunately 🥹
@@AllTerrainAction I would like to know the step by step to remove alloytec as you did in the video. do you have a video tutorial? here in bradil it is really too weak of material for this vehicle. thank you demaid if you can help. Please🙏🏽💪🏽🇧🇷🇦🇺
@@clederferreira4626 hey a video will come to step by step do the timing chain replacement in the near future, what’s actually failed on you alloytec though? Tensioner / chain or?
@@AllTerrainAction I will try to summarize. Exactly 1 year ago he had an overheating that ended up losing the bench 2 valve seats. I took everything out, redid it according to the manual. all within the point. but after assembling it had a considerable loss of power, despite overheating, it didn't burn the head gaskets or mix water with oil. So it was a simple maintenance. well, last month, when accelerating around 180km/h, he accused the check oil panel, shortly after, the engine was already beating connecting rods and too heavy to start when hot. actually came to a halt. I have the technical manual but little resources at home. but good will and faith always go ahead!
Did the engine start after we dropped it back in? ➡➡ th-cam.com/video/eUFCia8VG6I/w-d-xo.html
Highly impressed that you're willing to tackle this on a modern engine !
Excellent Chris very well put together piece as a mechanic I applaud you for tackling the big jobs good luck cheers peter
thanks peter!
Nothing beats a good engine rebuild/reconditioning let's see if she starts. thanks for sharing Chris.
here's hoping 😂
Very impressive that you know what you are doing. Is what it is about when you share your knowledge.👍🙂
Loving Wals chinese work boots while handling that motor lift 😂
My dad has got 330000k’s on the original chain in his alloytec and it’s still going strong!
not one of the best, but a decent motor, more worth than what most people say about them but they need their early general servicing to keep them long going that's for sure. I'm subbed to your stuff now mate... I can see that little fire burning inside you now wanting to find more adventure and I love finding people with that passion as that's exactly how mine started. Good luck with all your future trips.
@@AllTerrainAction yeah, right on the money about the early servicing!
That’s exactly where I’m at right now man, just dying to get out and explore Aus further 👍
Spoilers.
Bloody good result. When you said how easy this motor starts makes me think this was hiding in plain sight for a long while in the broken motor and in a way is a testament to the durability to these motors that have such a bad wrap.
Looking forward to seeing it running. It should be good 👍
Forgot to mention because I know many will say it, yes I am going to change the thermostat with a new one before it goes in!
Do sparkplugs and everything else too man
@@that_crankytf9571 yeah got all that this video isn't very comprehensive as motor mechanics bores people (that's for another video) so didn't want people to get too bored quickly but for those are interested in the details genuine bosch injectors, new Iridium plugs, new mace ignition coils, new thermostat, new power steering pump and bringing only my ac compressor and alternator as they were changed under 12 month ago. Any seal that can be changed in this process will be changed - I was going to get new 210 cams from mace, but I don't have the cash to do that and get it tuned as well to earn the benefits... plus who knows we might learn the lifter springs are cacus and I'd be better putting the money there -- if in the long future I'm inclined I could just pull the cam covers off and swap the cams do lifters/springs etc as now I know it can be done w/o removing the timing cover on the front. While everything was off, any accessible oil gallery had a air pressure hose pushed through with wd40 before final clean up and as much sludge has been evacuated.
@@AllTerrainAction Sweet should look into full metal bash plates for full length of the wagon
@@that_crankytf9571 haha, yeah the fuel tank needs a cover -- just another item for the list of, if i ever have time. Next major thing I'm working on is fully sealing snorkel install as it was fine for sand/cooler air from top, light water crossing - we are considering doing to cape york next year so need to focus on making sure its as sealed as can be especially after this little operation over the last month.
Excellent video Chris! Looking forward to watching the timing chains how to video 👍 Happy Easter to you and your family mate
We will thanks Ben 🙏
It may have been overheating due to running lean because of the air leak as well although sand may have got sucked into where the air leak was.
Sticking a bore o scope which you can plug into your smartphone into the cylinders through the spark plug hole could tell you if the cylinders were damaged & had sand in them !
Yeah, I was going to buy one of those but decided why not just take the heads off later on a video and share how much destruction we created in the sand. It could be a take it back 20thou put slightly larger pistons in, some 210 mace cams, and get it together for a spare, might make just under 300hp N/A with a tune and some better breathing, yeah i know.. not really worth spending money on these engines when you can get so much more out of an LS1 but its more about the project itself. All ideas though.. gotta get our LS1 Adventra ready for Cape before that, next wagon to back into the shed when my one drives out.
Great job..!!
Yarhz uppa blokes 💪 oussss❤
Half the alloytech motors I've seen eventually get this timing chain fault. Most come in with sludge all over from neglect. Maybe a fully synthetic oil may cope with the high temps in your case? From memory they recommend 5w-30. You could run a 10w-40? I wouldn't use diesel oil in a petrol long term in a non-race car, their is some evidence that the high zinc can contribute to cylinder glazing.
Never heard about the high zinc leading to bore glazing, know many alloytec owners to use it for many thouthands of kilometers some taking ownership at 200k and been well over 400k now with still a very working engine but that's not to say what you say is wrong, I normally run nulon 5w-30 diesel synthetic once every 2 oil changes and Castrol EDGE Synthetic 5W-30 any other time.
Im about to do the same thing to my vz wagon Mate.
Good little project, have fun and be sure to follow torque specs!
Good work, love watching your video's.
Cheers mate! I seen that Adventra you got on your channel ;)
Awesome dude. You are the alloytec guru haha
Haha I wish only a learner have a great support network of people who have definitely helped answer questions I’ve had to ask to get the job done, keen as to take the head off the old engine and check out the damage on the old one for a bit of an assessment, no real point in rebuilding that unless I wanted to maybe try and build a 300hp n/a alloytec 😂 not likely though as I now have an LS1 adventra that’s gotta be backed in next to bring it up to road spec, possibly try my hand at the 4L60 to 6L80 conversion some other adventra and cross crewman owners have managed to do.
Very good
Cheers
Awesome video mate! I got the same engine as yours, was wondering if you can help out and show how you remove the crank pulley(harmonic balancer) out. And does your pulley has a keyway? Need to buy parts for my engine but unfortunately the dealership needs to know if my crank pulley has key or not. Would really appreciate your reply. Cheers always!
When I get home tonight, I'll upload a unlisted video showing my removal of it from my GoPro view using Supercheap Auto $50 universal tool.
There you go mate, squeezed it in my lunch break for you. Enjoy th-cam.com/video/rGREuDanxVQ/w-d-xo.html
So.. What actually killed it ?
Using Oil and Over heating is a Head gasket issue ?
Suspicion is glazed bores explain increased pressure venting, oil back into the intake via PCV, use in oil, and also increase in engine temperature. How it happened also makes sense since we saw sand on the top of some of the lifters. I will know with more certainty once I've gotten everything finished, I'll pull the head off the old engine for an assessment. Could be wrong though but head gaskets very rarely go in these (from what I am told) and we never overheated on the trip so just strange spikes in temps that is not part of the normal to operation I usually see on the ScanGauage we normally ~ 98-108c spikes of 115 here and there that would come and go on the highway alloytecs are avg 103-105c temps for normal operation, given all signs progressively becoming worse that's our initial suspicion.
Did you oversize your pcv valve holes?
@@GS-kh5se I didn't I have my reasons and I've not had an issue following my own reason. I always pull and soak mine, air pressure to make sure its clear every service - that's every 7-8k's of its life, since the first few cleans its now always been clean and through. If it collects anything now and blocks it, indicator something is up inside the engine and I'll probably do a flush - I understand increasing the size is a GM adjustment in later alloytecs but this is probably because they want more room for lack of maintenance which I am generally not about. If its clear its fine and I did not suffer from low oil pressure and the resulting timing chain issue before and mine was fine from 165k to 270k in my ownership of 6 years.
just a thought chris ,a lot of rust up onthe top should have been covered in old oil, I wonder if rust in bores that the valves would have been open on cheers
Unless I've missunderstood this (or the process somewhere) I can't see how rust could be in the cylinder bore, when intake is open only risk for moisture in is via in the intake valley and when the exhaust is open extractor side only. Anything in the heads under the cam cover has no real way of making it into the bores - unless somehow water has entered via intake and has sat inside then there is a possibility in which case the engine will not last for very long after its started before showing signs of loss of compression. The only real way to know the answer of this would be to take the heads off but the bolts are torque to yield so I'd need to get replacements as well as a gasket, I did consider just swaping my heads off mine to this engine and that's how I know about that - I don't think there will be but if this ends up been the case, it will be sad news haha. Defaintley not seized though, otherwise I'd have had no chance to turn crank to do timing chain. Time will tell... lets hope not though otherwise maybe when I take the heads off my original engine (to find out what actually happened) take 20thou off the sides at a local engine machinist and get slightly larger pistons and rebuild the old one but lets hope we don't need to go there...
.. and just thinking more on that.. its all alloy so? there is only a handful of actual things that can rust here right?
@@AllTerrainAction yep will be interesting motors do not like dust or dirt can be damaged in a very short time any way hope to see the gray wagon on the road soon
@@peterjones3177 thats the hope.. LOL. Still peering out my window everytime I hear the postie.. hoping for my pickup seal to arrive. Worried it wont arrive by weeks end now... truly want it in and running by end of this weekend!
@@AllTerrainActionThere was obviously water in the top of the heads and there is always valves partially open - straight down the valve stem / oil galleries so the water would be in the block too. Pretty basic stuff
Bro 😊
Amazing that all parts are genuine GM. I have a Holden Commodore here in Brazil, and the parts, besides being very expensive, are hard to get. I have my alloytec stopped due to lack of lubrication. Unfortunately I can't find good quality parts. 😥🇧🇷🇦🇺🦘
Ah not good at all, I did not even know they exported these to Brazil!
@@AllTerrainAction
here Holden came like the Chevrolet Omega. only in versions 3.8 and 3.6 ligatec and in 2010/2011 Direct inspiration. Do you have any guarantee of online sale of GM parts similar to the video? I will have my ligatec rectified, unfortunately 🥹
@@AllTerrainAction I would like to know the step by step to remove alloytec as you did in the video. do you have a video tutorial? here in bradil it is really too weak of material for this vehicle. thank you demaid if you can help. Please🙏🏽💪🏽🇧🇷🇦🇺
@@clederferreira4626 hey a video will come to step by step do the timing chain replacement in the near future, what’s actually failed on you alloytec though? Tensioner / chain or?
@@AllTerrainAction I will try to summarize. Exactly 1 year ago he had an overheating that ended up losing the bench 2 valve seats. I took everything out, redid it according to the manual. all within the point. but after assembling it had a considerable loss of power, despite overheating, it didn't burn the head gaskets or mix water with oil. So it was a simple maintenance. well, last month, when accelerating around 180km/h, he accused the check oil panel, shortly after, the engine was already beating connecting rods and too heavy to start when hot. actually came to a halt. I have the technical manual but little resources at home. but good will and faith always go ahead!