Suzuki GSXR 750 04,05,1000 Idle Speed Adjustment
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ต.ค. 2024
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Thanks for sharing! I'll see how far this gets me with my 1987 GSX750ES, it's idling a little high.
I would also put some blue locktite on the threads of the idle screw after setting. Vibration can cause the screw to move.
There is a spring on the bolt which prevents it from turning
And the book info, nice!!
Quick question How do you reset the idle air screws to the original position If you don't know what that position is? My friendI sn't very bright He messed with all four of those screws and I just can't seem to get it right. I can't even get the bike to idlefuel injectors are fine fuel pump is fine fuel lines fine plugs are fine Did the fuel pump fuel test It's good,. SVTAand TPSare all fineNo codes are being thrownI'm about to give upHelp me
Wow your friend really f¥#ked you up here.. you should never mess with these unless you know what your doing and have the proper tools for syncing. You will need to purchase a vacuum gage for starters, link below.
amzn.to/3wXSdcW
You can't find a beginning reference point because there isn't one. To start, You basically have to turn all the screws down and bring them back up to a small equal level to at least get the bike to stay idleing. Use something like a paper clip as gauge to insure all four screws are equal level of height. It's not going to be easy but This should get the bike to ideal to where you can start using the vacuum gage to do your fine tuning of each.. theres a whole lot to it including the pair system and air sensors being disconnected from the airbox during the whole process. But to start from scratch is going to be a whole lot of trial and error ... Aka.. frustrating.
Man a fuel pump filter clean vid would be very helpful right now
hopefully i can have that video done on Saturday. Just waiting on shipping to deliver the fuel pressure testing kit..
wicked stuff man :)
I have 96 srad my problem is that it stay’s at 800-900 rpm which is low and tends to die sometimes. When I adjust to 1200rpm it stay’s well until I give some throttle, then rpm boosts to 4000 and hangs there it doesn’t want to come down. Im so confused how to get it on 1200rpm without making it hang above after little throttle given
Vacuum leak? Take some carb clean and spray around the carbs and intake manifold while idling, also spray around any air intake locations..lines..ect.. moving lines around as you spray. If there is a change in the idle you have found your air intake leak.
Could be something simple as a cracked airline or bad seat or loose clamp.
Maybe you can help sir I have a 2007 GSXR 600 ..and I am having a hard time finding original coil pack for it and other parts I purchased some coil packs off of eBay ever since I've installed them my bike's been idling slow and seem like it's going to cut off where can I find original parts I really don't want to sell my 2007.
Thanks for the videos bro i been watching all of ur videos and got the courage to work on my bike myself.. by any chance do u have a video or recommendations of how to clean the tank? I uploaded a video of my fuel pump and filter (dirty asf) looked like the bike had never been serviced and want to clean the tank but have no idea how.
Wow, just seen you video bro. Damn thats dirty! I can only imagine what the tank looks like. Well, I'm sorry to tell you that I dont have a video for you in my arsenal of DIY's because I haven't experienced this issue as of yet. But on the bright side of things i can tell you that I have had a few of my buddies that have done the following with great success. here are my suggestions.
Apple Cider Vinegar
Run down to your local Market and purchase a galleon of this stuff
Run down to your local Market and purchase 2 gallons of DISTILLED WATER
Run down to your local Market and purchase baking soda
Remove Tank from bike
Grab a few nuts, bolts and washers and drop them into the Tank (make sure to count them, what goes in must come out)
pour Vinegar into the tank filling it to the top
Shake tank around, this will cause the nuts and bolts to scrape along the inside and free up the rust stuck to the walls
let it site for 24 hrs or more
empty tank and rinse with distilled water (repeat if necessary)
If satisfied, Use baking and distilled water for final rinse. The baking soda acts as a neutralizer to the acidic acid of the apple cider vinegar.
Let me know how this works for you. If its not good enough we may have to try something a little more harsher like Muriatic Acid (swimming poor cleaner). Save this one for last!
As for the fuel pump your going to have to disassemble and clean out good, especially the filter. Or you just may want to but a new one if your not up for the task, but i say try cleaning first. Here's a good link that shows you what your in-store for.
th-cam.com/video/LqkXI9PDvSQ/w-d-xo.html
Hope that helps
Bro thanks alote for making this video simple and easy for us but I gotta get your advice on the clutch plate of suzuki gsxr 750 2005 clutch plate.
My clutch is gone already and I can't find in Gcc (dubai) spare for it and I don't want to wait long and pay alote just to get the manufacturer one .
Wich is the best brand of clutch comes after the manufacturer and ofcours it should fet properly and last long
Can you please help me with that tip
What up Rashied my brother, favors for favors, give me the sub and I'll give you my knowledge.. I got just what you need.
#as he opens & pulls back his left breast jacket unveiling the goods.
amzn.to/3xuJBZE
Don't forget to subscribe brother!
Hi mate. I watched your video but it didnt work on my bike, rpm wasn’t lower. My bike is k6.
Can you see the arm move ever so slightly when you turn the screen in or out?
my gsxr K2 1000 has 2000 revolutions, if I want to reduce the revolutions to 1200, I have to turn only this one screw, as you do?
Yes sir... This magical little screw will increase or decrease your engine idle
@@TheChemistDIY Thanks for the information, very good job, I wish you all the best
Thanks for the the video, my bike cold start does not want to work, it's like the ( wheel thingy) that turns to trigger the cold start idle doesn't want to turn when I start the bike, can anyone help me?
Nice video mate. Can I get to this part of the bike without removing too much of the bike parts ?
For sure.. remove the seat and flip the tank.. if you have a long screwdriver then you don't need to do any of that and just move to adjustment.
hey james just followed you brother, do you know if 45-50 psi is too much pressure on these bikes? my bike is bogging when accelerating hard, i think 43 psi is where it’s supposed to be around, the regulator looked corroded and possibly cooked maybe the diaphragm took a shit, let me know what you think... spark plugs, rectifier, stator, battery replaced all, also injectors are knocking i put a flat head screw driver up to base
If were talking about an k4-k5 750.. yeah, around 43 psi. If the bike is cool at idle and you rev to the higher RPM and she bogs down then I would take a look at two things.. the fuel pump and injectors. If you have it , attach the fuel pressure gauge and rev.. if the needle on the gauge drops during those higher RPMS then your on the right track.. now it time to troubleshoot and find the issue
Inspect the inside of the tank for rust and dirt.. then move to removing, cleaning and testing the fuel pump.. perform a fuel delivery test as well ...after that.. clean and test the injectors for proper V spray pattern.
Let me know how all that goes.
james moreno it’s a 2002 gsxr 1000 and the fuel pressure doesn’t drop when WOP, but loses power, also one thing i did notice that when i have full tank of fuel, and i’m checking for pressure without the key on, theres a lot of fuel dripping continuously fast from the line from tank, bike only has 20,000 miles, and the bike performs great in city, up to about past half throttle she boggs,
@@jessegibbs1285 , its sounding like you need a fuel pump brother. But to save you some cash perform all your due diligence with the current one.
K2.. who knows how well the previous owner took care of it unless he's your body. The filter inside may be dirty, seals may be warn, electronics shot.. pump not putting out enough fuel.. so many things could be the issue brother.. your just going to have to tackle them one by one OR... if you got it like that .. buy a new pump and totally eliminate that as a problem and move on to the injectors.
BUT GET THAT LEAK FIXED ASAP!!..
james moreno , just talked to Suzuki Dealership, they have me Quantoms phone number, they make fuel pumps and regulators, they are going to see if they can help me thank you brother for your videos !
james moreno i just got a update for you brother, took the fuel rail off injectors are working fine, get this .. i unplugged the MAP sensor where the vaccume goes, and also looked in the connector and there was corrosion on the hot wire connector part inside, cleaned it with electrical cleaner and she runs like brand new!! that’s a upd͏a͏t͏e for you...
You shouldn't mess with the factory idle unless you stunt. You also have to put the bike in dealer mode when adjusting idle.
What up Daniel, from time to time the idle will need adjustments as it tends to float out of spec. To perform the adjustment does not require the bike to be in dealer mode as you are putting the idle back into spec ((1200 rpms)).. if you did the good book would specify this requirement.
Almost 89k? Nice. What are some major things that have been replaced or needed repair?
I have to say surprisingly not as much as you would think. Honestly, regular maintenance is all that I have done on this bike as you can see from the list of my videos. If I had to say/chose something that was the most costly I would say the tranny, but that was my fault, newbie rider mistakes.. quick shifting with no clutch, I ate up a sprocket and was lucky that I didn't do anymore damage then that now that I think about it.
The bike has 90k on the clock now and pulls just as hard as it did when I first bought it at 40k. I even had the previous owner take it for a spin and he couldn't believe how strong it is with 90k on the cluster. Since this was my first bike I wanted to learn all that I could about the mechanics behind the machine so I made it a point to fix something on it every month, hence the slew of DIY videos, what the heck if I'm learning for the first time why not share it rest so they can learn from my mistakes. Since then I haven't turn back, Im looking forward to the day when I can crack the engine, I've even been toying with the Idea of purchasing one from a yard and do a full rebuild just to have an engine on hand if mine should ever take a dive. I asked a local shop what was the life expectancy of these engines, and he said about 150k and its time for a tear down. I cant wait to see if mine hits those numbers and beyond.
james moreno Oh so you paid somebody else to do the transmission work?
heartlesspinto Sure did!, Like i said I was new to riding and if I couldn't understand the basic principals of shifting a gear I had no business trying to fix one. That little mistake cost me $1200 bucks to repair and was a lessened learned. I believe it was at that point that I started to understand that this was going to be an expensive hobby and I should get to learning or be broke..lol
Its always important to know your limitations and know when to fork out the $$$ to have someone do it for you instead of making matters worse. Never be afraid to perform external maintenance jobs (anything outside the the engine and tranny). I only send my bike out for repair in a few cases.
1) When I'm short on time (down time to long).
2) When I don't have enough room for the job in my garage to spread the parts out.
3) When I know job requires extensive knowledge.
Till this day haven't cracked a tranny or an engine, I'm not afraid to admit that, nor am I afraid to attempt it now if time permits and If I have the room. It took me a while but now I can say I'm one of those guys who reads the service manual for enjoyment and knows the ins and outs of the mechanics.
I think the hardest part of any job is trying to fix something broken when you had no Idea what it looked like, or how it functioned when it was working right..lol, That's only thing the dealership has over you. Once you have that fix committed to memory there's no looking back.
I got the gsxr srad 750 97 model runs fine but at low rpm it's sometimes stalls or is sluggish have to Rev up and then it goes.. Any ideas. Some say it's just tuning or add seafoam, check airfilter and sparks. Please lemme know just got the bike. Runs sweet besides that
Sluggish at low RPMs and tends to stall.. hmm. Your going to get a lot of answers to this as this cover a lot of ground (from air, spark and fuel systems). If it were me I would start with the fuel delivery system.
Check/inspect
1) inside of the gas tank for rust or dirt at bottom of tank
2) fuel filter and make sure its not dirty or clogged
3) perform fuel pressure test
4) perform/confirm proper amount of fuel is being delivered test.
5) forward and backwards flush of injectors.
6) confirm proper spray pattern of injectors. (V spray and not dribbling out)
7) check rubber fuel lines for cracks or brittleness.
Case in point
I had bogging down and loss of power one time, turned out to be number one spark plug came lose and combustion was escaping. Also had a bad sparkplug do the same.. you just never know and have to go through everything with a fine tooth comb..
@@TheChemistDIY thanks for the informative reply, it does sound like it was slight miss fire when I drove it an hour ago. Just seems like on a hill even. I gotta get the revs up and let the clutch out to get going. Once going it seems fine but its the stopping on a hill or going slowly up a hill low revs seems to bog and then die. If you don't hold clutch and Rev up even then sometimes this doesn't work.
Some are saying use seafoam which is an additive, some say throttle pos sensor, some say what you have.
Like you say you need to go through it with a fine comb.
I just don't want it costing me an arm and a leg. But from what I've read that won't seem the case. I hope...
Seafoam is good, I use it all the time for my 05 750 but it's not the miracle cure your looking for. It's just a fuel system cleaner that does give a slight pep in you step when it's in the system, but your not going to want to be purchasing this all the time to solve an underlying issue.
If I'm not mistaken the 97 is carberated correct? Since you stated that on a hill your struggling to keep the bike alive have you tried adjusting your floats/carbs, maybe it's time to tear down and clean out the carbs, jets and needles..
The SRAD of these years is known for having low end sluggishness, especially if you have an aftermarket high flow exhaust. The lack of back pressure really seems to hurt the low end.
This is just my two cents brother, I'm no carb export but if the bike was running fine when you first got and suddenly started to lose power the that tells me something is dirty.. namely something to do with fuel delivery..
Great video!
Do u have any videos and the cleaning of throttle bodies and fuel rail and injectors?
I have videos for just about everything you're going to experience with owning a sports bike. Be sure to subscribe to lock in the channel.
Injector cleaning
th-cam.com/video/t0M_CiQ6s2A/w-d-xo.html
Throttle body cleaning
th-cam.com/video/ZgZVawt02Io/w-d-xo.html
@@TheChemistDIY Sweet!! Thanks brotha will do.😁👍🏽
Hi James that good video, I have a problem every time I start my bike the idle is high (3000-4000 rpm) for a few seconds then it is normal (1300rpm) do you know how I can solve this? ...Thank you
Have you put the bike in dealer mode and checked your TPS level insuring it's set in the middle? If that's set correctly try backing down your fast idle to 1200 rpm and see if that changes it.. I personally have mine set to 1300 rpms but each bike varies with milage.
Yes, I have put it in workshop mode and everything is fine (-c00) forget to mention that before everything was fine until I clean the whole body and adjust the gas butterflies as the manual says, I only need to measure the secondary butterflies to know Yes they are in range but I don't know what is happening
@@TheChemistDIY Yes, I have put it in workshop mode and everything is fine (-c00) forget to mention that before everything was fine until I clean the whole body and adjust the gas butterflies as the manual says, I only need to measure the secondary butterflies to know Yes they are in range but I don't know what is happening
Take some carb clean and spray around the TB area and hose's and see if you have a leak somewhere. The air leak may not be noticable during normal operation but may make a big difference during cold start..
I'm sure you know this trick.. bike will act like it want to shut off if sucking in the spray through a hose or gap..
@@TheChemistDIY Hi James, I have already checked all the hoses and they are fine, and I adjusted the "fast idle" screw a bit and now it is perfect, the idle is already in place every time I start my motorcycle, thank you very much for your valuable help , I really appreciate your time, I have learned something new with this, greetings from Colombia
What is sea foam?
Tanks!
You have over 88000 miles on this bike?
At the time of this video yes Sir... I still have the engine but had to pull it out and set aside because I blew the tranny. When the tranny went the milage on the clock was 99k miles. I was hoping to see it get to 100k and post that. My plans are to rebuild that engine and tranny and have it as a spare. It should make a nice build series.
Can this work for ticking
A ticking sound is going to be one of 4 things... or all, lol. All the speed Idle does is increase or decrease you idle.
1. Cam Chain
2. Cam Chain guides
3. Cam Chain tensioner
4. Valve Adjustment time
Bro my gixer failed the emission test. It seems that it's consuming too much fuel. How can I adjust it. Peace!!
SHAWN T bro, I need more information starting with what mods you have. Do you have an aftermarket exhaust, PC , made any modifications or adjustments? Are you experiencing issues such a bogging or dieing out, any black smoke or heavy soot around the exhaust tip or smell a rich oil smell during your ride. Have you pulled the plugs to check color. Black color means your running rich/ white and you are running lean and when was the last time you changed the pkugs. Have you inspected your hoses for any cracks (Vac leaks), that would for sure give you problems ..and I'm not about just looking at them, I mean pulling them out and bending them or blowing into 1 end while you plug the other and listen for air escaping. Have you tested your sensors and fuel injectors to see if your putting out the correct amount of gas and receiving the correct reading if each part. Have you tested your fuel pressure reg to see if the correct amount of PSI and fuel is being put out.. there's a lot to this. If you haven't then you need to.
james moreno When i bought the bike it wasn't running well. So i changed the plugs , oil + Filter , got all 4 injectors ultra sonically cleaned + fuel rail , cleaned tank and fuel pump , throttle body. When i rev it i see black smoke so it is running rich. How can adjust this and is there away to adjust the injectors. Can you please do a vedio. Thanks and keep the vedios coming.
Shawn, pull your plugs and see if one or two are coated in black soot or are they all, also how black are they? Is it a dry black or wet black?. Additionally, what type of plugs are you running? 2ndly I would measure the gap on the plugs, just because they come pre-gap doesnt mean they are. If memeory servs me correctly the gap size is .028 -.032 (dont quote me, do your home work).
Also, have you done a compression test, that black smoke could be a bad ring, only way to tell is to get the gauge on it, I have video on all of these. Try out these few things and report. Will work our way through it.
Great content, do you have a video where you check/calibrate the STVA?
No, sorry. Next time I'm in there I'll be sure to make one. Not to hard though, just loosen the screw to where your able to slightly move by hand, put the bike in service mode, start her up and adjust the level till its dead center -00. Its when you go to tighten the screw that's the tricky part as tightening tends to move your adjustment.
How do you adjust the cold idle? Is the other screw on top of the regular idle? Can you explain that to me? Mine idles to slow when cold
El Padrino, I'm not understanding what you mean by slow. If you mean the time it takes for the secondary butterflies to close this should be around 5-10 seconds. The cold idle is actually controlled by the STPS and ECM. There is an adjustment screw and it's located on the left side above the large Idle screw (you will need to lift tank). This adjust the clearance or how far the oblong arm is allowed to kick out (I tap on that arm at 0:16 seconds of the video). But it's very rare that you should have to mess with this screw. In fact it should have a white stripe on it to where the manufacturer has set.
If your having idle issues try bumping up you me fast idle to 1400 rpms. I know when my bike runs rough at idle (cold or warm) its because the idle is set to low. Service Manule recommends 1250 but this has never worked for me. 1400 has always been the magic number.
james moreno Thanks...what I want to say is when the bike is cold, it wont hold idle, falls to 500 rpms or stalls, I think PO mess with that screw you talk about...I have to hold my gas so the bike wont stall....
When the bike warms out it works fine😒😒
El Padrino, ok so try this.. take a look at that screw, it should have two nuts on it (one is used as a Jam nut). Push the rotor blade all the way up, the tip of the screw should barely or have a hair gap before it touches the blade arm stopping point. If it doesn't, loosen the nuts and make the adjustment so it does. This is what mine is set to. See if that works..
james moreno ok I will try that and let you know....Pura Vida...Saludos desde Costa Rica✌
Yeah mine does the same, I've heard it's do to the valves needing adjustment. I have a 07 K7 and during a cold start it goes to about 700rpm then drops and dies out. I'm going to bring it into the shop this week to see if that works. Did adjusting the cold start idle help you at all?
Hi all tell have someone tell me is the TPS sensor on my 750 on the left r right hand side
Right side
What's up bro? Where are you located?
Moto Vate, Cali.. La Habra area. You local?
james moreno I'm out here by Sacramento. Looking for a good mechanic. My 02 gsxr 750 sputters and feels under powered sometimes. It's like when you snap the throttle it takes it a second to respond.
Moto Vate, how good are you with the simple stuff like spark changes. Spark plugs are a good start. Just by removing them and taking a look at the color of them can tell you a lot how the bike is runing. Also When was the last time you changed them along with an oil change.
james moreno so I just replaced the plugs, cleaned the K&N air filter and changed the oil about 1k ago. Any ideas what else I should look for?
Moto Vate, next thing I would check is compression, but this would require a compression tester. If you don't have one then you can pick one Up on eBay for cheap and take a look at my diy on how to perform, pretty simple... it also could be a simple throttle adjustment, there are many ways to go with this but we always need to make sure that the mechanical aspect is functioning as it should.
Friend, you have facebook, I need to ask you some questions.
In the end
www.thechemistdiy.com
U check the ohms on the coil packs lol electricity is not ur forte I guess lol
Bro don’t build mea watch, just tell me the time
do you want someone to wipe your ass too or do you wanna learn HOW and WHY you should do it every time you shit?