8:22 those are actually the wrong screws Ricardo. The manual tells you to NOT re-use these screws but to use the new screws provided with the QR2 Wheel-Side, which look very different to the ones you have installed which are the "old" ones from the metal-washer which you seem to have re-used. This is very very important, if you re-use the "old" screws you will damage the QR2 Base-Side (which one can see in your shots you already did as the Base-Side Type-C already shows the damage very clearly).
If they're the same screws Boosted Media mentioned, I think they said in passing that you are meant to re-use the existing screens for some wheels. Not sure which ones or why, though.
@@LeoDavidson existing screws should only be re-used for CSL Univeral Hub, GT DD Pro wheel, CSL P1 V2, CSL BMW and CSL ELite WRC. For All other wheels you have to use the new screws. Ricardo is using the McLaren one and you can see he just re-used the old screws on this wheel which is not what the manual says. By re-using the old existing screws on not mentioned wheels you will damage the QR2 Base-Side as the screw heads are too big and collide with the shaft every time you attach the wheel which you can clearly see in the video in his black QR2 Type-C shaft which is already damaged because he re-used the wrong screws.
if it would be the same price as the qr1 i would think about getting it at Black Friday as there is no other chance of getting a better qr than the plastic one I own rn.@@randomcallsign
@@randomcallsign Not really comparable, considering one needs to get the Base QR2 first which is already 160€ all together/ or 70€ alone for the base QR2 Funny thing now is QR 1 is 50€
If you buy the Podium wheelbases you get QR2 already today, but if you buy a CSL DD its "ready for the future" meaning you have to buy the QR2 yourself.
The shaft clamp is literally just a piece of plumbing hardware available on Amazon and other sites all around the world. It might be bright aluminium instead of that matt black, but conversely they will only cost about €10.
Fanatec have their own install video. I'd check it out especially for base side, as you are supposed to untwist the cables 10 times, the unplug the shorter cable, then plug in the new QR2 into it, then unplug the next after, this way you won't lose the cables back into the unit.
I'm ordering for my CSL DD so I can do away with the retention bolt. 2 of my 3 QR1's rattle a lot without the retention bolt, so it's pretty much a requirement for me to use the bolt. I never swap wheels anymore because it's such a pain, so I'm excited to get the QR2.
I used a bit of electrical tape. No more wobble nor sound :) The QR2 is $215 shipped to my door... so I will skip this QR2. Electrical Tape was $1 and there is lots left :D
oh ... seems to be I've luck with my csl DD pro an Formula 2.5 with QR1. No movement in any direction, clean, precise. I use the wheel mounting screw also ! I think when you use only one wheel the aluminium QR1 is ok
I don't even see why we should have to buy the upgrade. They sold us faulty goods and we should be sorted out for free. I have put a Jubilee clip on but it still disconnects. Absolute disgrace to be left with such an expensive hunk of junk.
@@ratatat9790 Game developers put a fight against Unity and they won. The new shaft must be sent for free. TH-cam simracing leaders can start the fight! The one starting it will gain support...
I've had several complaints on the qr1 on my Porsche 911 gt3 wheel. That I use for on my 8nm csl dd. And I can't wait to finally replace it. For a while I considered swapping brands because of the quick release.
totally agree, im on the same boat but i will definitelty go at it slowly at this point i had invested in 2 universal Clubsport hubs , one with a 305 turn racing wheel and one with a round NRg wheel i had lyig around, i expect for these 2 to cover most if not all my racing, i wont upgrade right away but it seem worth while in the long run
@@Mr_jz_12 No increase, QR2 costs the same, it is a matter of shipping it out of the box. They should do it parallel for a period of time like with the wheels.
@@Mr_jz_12 Yep you are right, my bad. Still i would prefer to have the option when i purchase a new base to choose between the QR1 and QR2 (they wanna do the same with wheels pretty soon)
Could you try the new QR2s with the force feedback test in the Fanatec Control Panel? It makes the wheel oscillate at a high frequency. With QR1 if you don't use the locking bolt it'll make huge clunky noises, how about QR2? I really hope it can stay silent.
@@randomcallsign can you also verify it is silent even with QR2L? I have very ugly plastic strain noises with QR1L under 8Nm torque use when torque is applied in the opposite direction you are turning the wheel
Sorry to all the TH-cam members and Twitch subscribers for not adding you on the credits. Also let me know what you think of these news and sub to the channel. EDIT: there's a mistake when mounting the wheelside QR2. Its the wrong bolts. use the ones inside the box. thanks to: the86snufflepuff codesinsimulation mans34011 xxadrian_mxx jayappleseed nunopinheiro53 bacoco_ bbm985 arnaudontrack diegorodrigueees ltcdubs ldusoswa izzieb_ radweasel monodave___d_adams GamerMuscle Videos isaacwest Izzie justagunter Adi SimRacing HQ Thomas Aslaksen John Miller JConceptsGT RubberStig rjvms
Moza qr costs $60, simagic qr70 is $75. $200 qr2 pro is taking the piss. $100 qr2 is within the realm of reason, but feels like the worst value in the product category compared to competition. $85 would look a lot better
Don't even need to go that far, unless you care about the branding you can get the exact same QR off some online site for 40-50€ when it comes to moza and simagic. Fanatec once again offers less quality at double if not triple the price.
Sparco wants 216 euro for their FIA certified quick release (Quick Release Sparco) shipped to my door. If I want the normal QR2 bundle from fanatec its 203 euro shipped to my door. If I want an extra qr2 wheelside for a second wheel its a total of 300 euro. This is insane pricing.
@@jm-holmyeah I’m glad I left the ecosystem and ended up with a Simagic Alpha Ultimate. The only thing Fanatec I have left is a CSS 1.5 shifter and a USB converted formula v2.5 wheel that I used on my accuforce that also fits the Simagic quick release. No regrets at all!
Idk if it’s me but Mclaren V2 wheel rim caused the DD1 to disconnect when attached with the new QR2 also the new Firmware update for it “V46” will not work and cause everything to be stuck in a firmware update cycle. While the display on the DD1 goes blank.
Just gotta say dude, I'm loving your videos. Only recently discovered your channel and really like your presentation style. Looking forward to more of your content. Thanks!
I agree I have a CSL DD 8nm and 2 wheels ,I'll be sticking with my current QR1 system until my wheelbase needs replacing (I think it is overkill for the 8nm and under range plus I have no complaints with the QR1 system ) But I like watching vids on sim racing equipment and lots of other stuff ill never buy. Great VIDEO and good summary.
Applying the same force as you in this video my QR1 on my Clubsport wheel and DD1 moves a hell of a lot less. Don't see any point in changing and/or wasting a fortune on the QR2 which seems a lot worse even if it is easier to put on and take off. Interested to see what others have to say.
So am I and I simply do not see anywhere near the level of flex you are getting in both your wheel and wheeldeck. For me at least the QR1 is performing better.@@randomcallsign
Price wise I am plesently surprised. The prices are in line with VRS and Simlab's similar styled quick releases. To be honest I was expecting the normal and pro version to cost $200 for the normal wheel side and $300 for the pro wheelside. Good thing I was wrong. Thanks for talking me down. I was about to buy 2 QRLites on some FOMO stuff. Instead I'll save my cheddar and get 2 normal QR2's to replace the two QR1s I already own.
as someone with a fanatec dd wheelbase and 3 qr1 wheels, this does feel like too little too late to me, do i want to switch all of my wheels onto a new quick release at 100 a piece or jus suffer through watching my friends nearly bash their face whenever they take one of my wheels off..
If you upgrade your system to QR2 normal version, it will only cost you 400 shipped to the door. Take in comparsion a Moza R9 wheelbase with 3 qr adapters, they want to charge you 620 shipped to the door. I think I will go Moza next time :)
Cone on man, it's CNC, we have been doing it for over 30 years. It's not black magic and not that expensive, especially mass produced. However, it is good to see fantec doing something. Too late for my money, but good for them.
I think I might be overexaggerating but you might want to check the torque on the csl dd, it looked like the shaft moved a bit when you applied a lot of torque 12:22
aaaand theyre sold out. as nice as it would be to not have to tighten the screw-ring every time i put the wheel on and off, i dont know if the $300 i would need to spend, for the type m base side and two wheel sides, would be worth it. i never really have an issue with rigidity of the current system.
Fanatec's business model leave's much to be desired and that's coming from someone who owns a lot of their products. Way too much flex for me I'm sticking with my QR1's, I see no reason to "upgrade!"
First thing I did when I got my CSL DD was to replace the shaft clamp with a two piece clamp, I haven't had any issues with clonking or wheel wobble. I did try the QR1 but found the QR1 Lite provided a better wobble free experience, and more convenience, no messing about with Thrustmaster style screws. Will I change to a QR2? Not unless the QR1 Lite stops doing a stella job. I've tried a few wheel combos with the 8Nm CSL DD, I found it's particularly sensitive to weight, it really comes alive with the WRC wheel/QR1 Lite, and I've taken to using the CSL DD exclusively with that wheel.
My QR1 is grabage, the lock nut walks its way out after an hour and you start getting the clunk clunk when apexing. I hate that i need to buy something to fix a design flaw but I guess its cheaper than bin and rebuy another eco system.
I removed the original quick Release of my DD1 almost the second i got it. I won't be going back to any of the Fanatec quick Release Systems. Im very happy with my 3rd party quick Release System. Also i am no longer limited to Fanatec wheels. I love Moza wheels as much as my F1 2.5x, and in VR i dont even see the one additional cable going to the Wheel.
@@randomcallsign With the wheel being bolted directly to the DD1 there is no play at all, i just love it. (Its an old genuine Momo Porsche wheel i got for dirt cheap)
Dang over 200$ just to quickly swap wheels out? Glad I went with moza in the end lol even tho I basically just use the GT rim for everything it’s still nice to have the option to quickly swap to a circular rim for oval racing. I just don’t think it’s all that useful tbh, convenient as hell but really kinda pointless to be spending over 200$ just to quickly swap wheels. To each their own though I guess.
Quick question, in left right movements, is the steering wheel coupling perfect? Or you feel slight movements between the steering base and the wheel? For me would be very annoying, I would make sure before to buy it. Thanks a lot
Great Video! Presently running the qr1-lite on my wheels, been mostly happy with them, never had the metal QR1. Seriously considering the upgrade to QR2, think I should go for it? Was going to upgrade to metal QR1 anyway.
Indeed, only real issue I have with the qr1-lite is when the plastic makes this creaking sound. Doesn’t help the confidence levels. Would prefer a mount made of aluminum or steel.
I still have not had any problem with my QR1 lite (probably thanks to the electrical tape mod), and this was $215 shipped to my door... So I will skip this one :) I would have liked the clamp. I think its wierd they say they are not sure if would work.. cause the new and old QR axles should be the same diameter....... so it sounds a little BS to me :) about the flex.. Ive seen more flex in real cars, so I would not be worried :)
All looks great. I think some of the flex yoh where perceiving was actually your rig itself rather than even the backplate of the wheel.. also annoys me more than jt should you have the fanatec sticker facing away from you in the McLaren wheel 😂🤣😂 anyways i willl certainly be upgrading down the line. Thanks for the video.
That is the clamp that came factory on my Podium DD1 and obviously I'm using a QR1.. So if they question that, then you're saying Fanatec intentionally and knowingly sent me something they can't guarantee??
@@randomcallsign My question is why would they do that if they openly tell consumers they don't know how it works with the QR1 in general.. What hes saying makes it sound like they just slapped it on their most expensive base with no to minimal research.. I didn't think it was just mine..
I don't get what you are saying. They changed the wheel side quick release and kept the clamp because it didn't need to be changed. Only the csl dd changes the clamp. You don't have to change the qr at all if you feel its good enough. Same with csl dd I never had problems with the qr1 in it.
@@randomcallsign I've only had it a month and a half and already had to put on the spare QR1 they provided.. It clicked so loud my neighbor could hear it (living in a hotel while house shopping in a crappy market).. So I am getting the upgrade if the site stops crashing..
I’ve got 2 good QR1’s and 1 bad one. Doesn’t seem worth it for me to upgrade. I will run what I’ve got till it dies then try a different brand. No hate for Fanatec but I want to try something else at some point in the same way that I change brands of cars I drive every few years.
looking at this qr issue i think most guys just shake too much to check if its moving. your whole set up was moving when you were checking the movement, no wonder these brake so fast
Thanks for your detailed review! Very useful. In my opinion - dumb design, way too big and fat - you have to replace all your previous Fanates QRs, wheel holders etc. and have to spend lot of money again - 'Lite' version can be broken quickly, if you check there's a 90 degree around where you attach to the wheel without strengthen legs and that's not an encouraging sign for plastic parts
bought my CSL DD last week. keep hearing about issues with the shaft that connects to the wheel. If I don’t change it what exactly will happen over time? My main concern is will I be able to fix it in the future or will I be out of a CSL DD
I have CSL DD 8Nm and get the knock where there is play between wheel and shaft. Putting ptfe plumbers tape on shaft addresses it temporarily but I was worried that it will break pins over time. I’m tempted to get QR2.
@@momorious or get this... Knowing that the bases are going to need the new shafts to work with the new QRs, they could sell them together. What a novel idea it is not to ass fuck your customers at every turn.
Maybe in the future you get the shaft aswell for QR2 included, right now only the Podium wheelbases have QR2 as standard, while on CSL DD it says its future proof and upgradeable to QR2
U think the but.,,, part on this video was the reason they didn’t send u a clubsport dd 😂 I was really hoping u would get that base interview I really was. Will u buy it?
@@randomcallsign I think now this thing is more resposive and the force feedback is more good ? and could this be a good choice for XBOX in Forza Horizon 5
I was thinking the same about the wires but the shaft size maybe different and not a direct fit. The Clubsport v2.5 is so good that there is no need to upgrade fro my type of gaming.
@birit911 yeah the cs v2.5 was ahead of it's time. I'm looking at picking up a used v2.5 base and wheel on the cheap. I'm worried the wheel wobble is going to annoy the heck out of but the cost of the dd bundles and then adding the qr2 onto is getting close to the price of a new car.
I doubt they waited 2 years and lost so much customers just to have a proper tolerances and FIA homologation. I think they just wanted to clear as much QR1 stock they could before release. I think they wouldn't release it even now if not for MOZA R3 giving an option for console user's. So we should thank MOZA for this, more than Fanatec. It was a DO or BUST for Fanatec.
"Not worth paying for the QR2 because WTF would you need an FIA certified QR?" I paid for my QR2 Pro because it's waaaaaay less in demand, thus I got it waaaaaaaaaaay quicker.........more than worth the extra $100 AND it looks so much better :P
@@grinnerzakaminicide1201 Yeah i was interested as my qr1 has slop, till i saw the price then went NOPE. Finding it verry hard to recommend Fanatec these days. Moza's quality control/customer service is only thing that holds me back from fully recommending them.
Personally seeing the new QR2 perform about the same in terms of wheel wobble. I mean sure you wont have the clicking feel of the old QR1 and old shaft when it comes to the wheel wobble. You won't hear it but from what I can tell the wheels don't seem anymore fixed in place than the QR1 or QR1 lite. So you will still feel it. Personally I think the QR2 is still tremendously under the bar. With Moza, Asetek, and Simucubes wheels all being very firm when fitted onto their wheel bases. It leaves me curious as to why anyone would decide to upgrade from one wobbly QR to another. Even if its not entirely the QR 2 and more of the wheel back plates it still brings the question to mind as why would anyone upgrade for the same experience minus the audible clicks between the shaft and older QR1s. Maybe this can all be chalked up to certain wheels not being sturdy, or the button box HUBs are causing flex in the wheels. It may not be the QRs fault at all. But there's still far too much play in the system for me to want to pick up the fanatec ecosystem. Still looking at moza and Asetek. They are both the top contenders in the rising DD market. Fanatec is feeling alittle stagnant these days.
This performs way better No yaw movement. No clicking. Positive grab. I need to make a huge amount of force enough to make the rig move (which I did for the test) so you'd see any movement The qr system is solid.
QR2 looking great, but seems to me it'll still take a while before Fanatec can finish their transition with a new CSL DD, when Moza is still out there sitting on their former throne for the most part.
Yeah it's kinda cool but it's highly overpriced man and the budget one cost around the same as a Moza QR but it's cheaply made and it's plastic that's terrible and for the quality one it's $200 for real dude so not worth it at all what a rip off F fanatecill stick with Moza you get more for your money and practically no plastic and there QR is literally the same thing that's used in race cars they are NRG style QR,s fanatec sucks the only thing they have on Moza is that ove RT priced boost pack for a base that half plastic and cones with a wheel that's entirely made of plastic even the QR and needs a grub screw to be solid which entirely defeats r purpose of a quick release fanatec sucks
Like aways. You have no clue about anything. Mashining this peace from aluminum block is like 30 to 50 dollars. With that amount of units they produce it's super cheap to mashine this. People think cnc is super expensive. Well. It's not. Especially if you do it in China. Like fanatec
OK, cool . 50bucks machining. Whats the cost of nickel plating? What is the profit margin after delivery? Whats the overhead? My dude, you have really no clue what you are talking about.
This should cost no more than 60$, specifically when all the competitors brands have reliable solutions since year's already, and prices are between 30 to 60$
8:22 those are actually the wrong screws Ricardo. The manual tells you to NOT re-use these screws but to use the new screws provided with the QR2 Wheel-Side, which look very different to the ones you have installed which are the "old" ones from the metal-washer which you seem to have re-used. This is very very important, if you re-use the "old" screws you will damage the QR2 Base-Side (which one can see in your shots you already did as the Base-Side Type-C already shows the damage very clearly).
If they're the same screws Boosted Media mentioned, I think they said in passing that you are meant to re-use the existing screens for some wheels. Not sure which ones or why, though.
@@LeoDavidson existing screws should only be re-used for CSL Univeral Hub, GT DD Pro wheel, CSL P1 V2, CSL BMW and CSL ELite WRC. For All other wheels you have to use the new screws. Ricardo is using the McLaren one and you can see he just re-used the old screws on this wheel which is not what the manual says. By re-using the old existing screws on not mentioned wheels you will damage the QR2 Base-Side as the screw heads are too big and collide with the shaft every time you attach the wheel which you can clearly see in the video in his black QR2 Type-C shaft which is already damaged because he re-used the wrong screws.
Thank god Fanatec is releasing a product people people can buy to replace their old Fanatec QR and its design flaws!
What the hell are they thinking with these price points 😢
"I like money!"
qr2 is 99. same price.
but not on my wheel shaft
I need to buy a 160 euros kit to really use it@@randomcallsign
if it would be the same price as the qr1 i would think about getting it at Black Friday as there is no other chance of getting a better qr than the plastic one I own rn.@@randomcallsign
@@randomcallsign Not really comparable, considering one needs to get the Base QR2 first which is already 160€ all together/ or 70€ alone for the base QR2
Funny thing now is QR 1 is 50€
According to Fanatec, it will take 1-2 years to fully transition.
If you buy the Podium wheelbases you get QR2 already today, but if you buy a CSL DD its "ready for the future" meaning you have to buy the QR2 yourself.
The shaft clamp is literally just a piece of plumbing hardware available on Amazon and other sites all around the world. It might be bright aluminium instead of that matt black, but conversely they will only cost about €10.
Fanatec have their own install video.
I'd check it out especially for base side, as you are supposed to untwist the cables 10 times, the unplug the shorter cable, then plug in the new QR2 into it, then unplug the next after, this way you won't lose the cables back into the unit.
QR2 is absolutely fantastic and rhe great color options showing up in Aliexpress and Amazon are spot on great!
When I watched your z ring video I got one of those for
also, if they make it 30-40€ cheaper for each bundle, it'd make a lot more sense, maybe in the future, i'll keep rocking my qrlite until then ;)
I'm ordering for my CSL DD so I can do away with the retention bolt. 2 of my 3 QR1's rattle a lot without the retention bolt, so it's pretty much a requirement for me to use the bolt. I never swap wheels anymore because it's such a pain, so I'm excited to get the QR2.
I used a bit of electrical tape. No more wobble nor sound :) The QR2 is $215 shipped to my door... so I will skip this QR2. Electrical Tape was $1 and there is lots left :D
@@AndrewTSq I screwed around with stuff like that but ultimately it's pretty janky and leaves residue behind.
@@Woofers11 havent seen any residue but I can see it happen with some tapes. I only have one wheel right now, so its not a problem for me :)
@@AndrewTSq If you have one wheel just use the retention screw and problem solved.
oh ... seems to be I've luck with my csl DD pro an Formula 2.5 with QR1. No movement in any direction, clean, precise. I use the wheel mounting screw also ! I think when you use only one wheel the aluminium QR1 is ok
For those with loose shafts that don't want to buy the upgrade, mine was fixed with a regular steel hose clamp from the hardware store.
I don't even see why we should have to buy the upgrade. They sold us faulty goods and we should be sorted out for free. I have put a Jubilee clip on but it still disconnects. Absolute disgrace to be left with such an expensive hunk of junk.
@@ratatat9790 Game developers put a fight against Unity and they won. The new shaft must be sent for free. TH-cam simracing leaders can start the fight! The one starting it will gain support...
I've had several complaints on the qr1 on my Porsche 911 gt3 wheel. That I use for on my 8nm csl dd. And I can't wait to finally replace it. For a while I considered swapping brands because of the quick release.
I will take my time to upgrade. I have a DD1 and three fanatec wheels. It will be costly to upgrade.
yep
totally agree, im on the same boat but i will definitelty go at it slowly at this point i had invested in 2 universal Clubsport hubs , one with a 305 turn racing wheel and one with a round NRg wheel i had lyig around, i expect for these 2 to cover most if not all my racing, i wont upgrade right away but it seem worth while in the long run
Finally, now they need to ship the CSL DD etc. with QR2 out of the box.
They wont, because people will complain about the pricing being massively increased.
I think i heard that they will be doing that. Which version they ship with i don't know. Probably depends on the model.
@@Mr_jz_12 No increase, QR2 costs the same, it is a matter of shipping it out of the box. They should do it parallel for a period of time like with the wheels.
@@R4ZORLIGHT costs more when i just checked?
@@Mr_jz_12 Yep you are right, my bad.
Still i would prefer to have the option when i purchase a new base to choose between the QR1 and QR2 (they wanna do the same with wheels pretty soon)
Could you try the new QR2s with the force feedback test in the Fanatec Control Panel? It makes the wheel oscillate at a high frequency. With QR1 if you don't use the locking bolt it'll make huge clunky noises, how about QR2? I really hope it can stay silent.
The qr2 doesn't make a sound.
@@randomcallsign can you also verify it is silent even with QR2L? I have very ugly plastic strain noises with QR1L under 8Nm torque use when torque is applied in the opposite direction you are turning the wheel
Sorry to all the TH-cam members and Twitch subscribers for not adding you on the credits. Also let me know what you think of these news and sub to the channel.
EDIT: there's a mistake when mounting the wheelside QR2. Its the wrong bolts. use the ones inside the box.
thanks to:
the86snufflepuff
codesinsimulation
mans34011
xxadrian_mxx
jayappleseed
nunopinheiro53
bacoco_
bbm985
arnaudontrack diegorodrigueees
ltcdubs
ldusoswa
izzieb_
radweasel
monodave___d_adams
GamerMuscle Videos
isaacwest
Izzie justagunter
Adi
SimRacing HQ
Thomas Aslaksen
John Miller
JConceptsGT
RubberStig
rjvms
Moza qr costs $60, simagic qr70 is $75.
$200 qr2 pro is taking the piss.
$100 qr2 is within the realm of reason, but feels like the worst value in the product category compared to competition. $85 would look a lot better
200, for the pro is reasonable for the product that it is and the certification it has, but totally useless for 99.99% of us
Don't even need to go that far, unless you care about the branding you can get the exact same QR off some online site for 40-50€ when it comes to moza and simagic.
Fanatec once again offers less quality at double if not triple the price.
Sparco wants 216 euro for their FIA certified quick release (Quick Release Sparco) shipped to my door. If I want the normal QR2 bundle from fanatec its 203 euro shipped to my door. If I want an extra qr2 wheelside for a second wheel its a total of 300 euro. This is insane pricing.
@@jm-holmyeah I’m glad I left the ecosystem and ended up with a Simagic Alpha Ultimate. The only thing Fanatec I have left is a CSS 1.5 shifter and a USB converted formula v2.5 wheel that I used on my accuforce that also fits the Simagic quick release. No regrets at all!
Idk if it’s me but Mclaren V2 wheel rim caused the DD1 to disconnect when attached with the new QR2 also the new Firmware update for it “V46” will not work and cause everything to be stuck in a firmware update cycle. While the display on the DD1 goes blank.
Meanwhile there's brands using the simpler and better NRG style ones
Just gotta say dude, I'm loving your videos. Only recently discovered your channel and really like your presentation style. Looking forward to more of your content. Thanks!
Welcome aboard!
I agree I have a CSL DD 8nm and 2 wheels ,I'll be sticking with my current QR1 system until my wheelbase needs replacing (I think it is overkill for the 8nm and under range plus I have no complaints with the QR1 system ) But I like watching vids on sim racing equipment and lots of other stuff ill never buy. Great VIDEO and good summary.
Applying the same force as you in this video my QR1 on my Clubsport wheel and DD1 moves a hell of a lot less. Don't see any point in changing and/or wasting a fortune on the QR2 which seems a lot worse even if it is easier to put on and take off. Interested to see what others have to say.
Was thinking thats more than mine, and my qr1 has unacceptable play?
Im applying so much force that the solid wheeldeck is bending.
If you have a sturdy wheel like the formula ones then obviously it will flex less than the more flimsy standard wheel shaped rims
He is flexing the same type of wheel as me and mine does not flex anywhere near what he is getting with the QR2.@@callumlaland678
So am I and I simply do not see anywhere near the level of flex you are getting in both your wheel and wheeldeck. For me at least the QR1 is performing better.@@randomcallsign
8:45 you are supposed to turn the qr 10x to untangle the cables, then the connectors are on the outside
Price wise I am plesently surprised. The prices are in line with VRS and Simlab's similar styled quick releases. To be honest I was expecting the normal and pro version to cost $200 for the normal wheel side and $300 for the pro wheelside. Good thing I was wrong.
Thanks for talking me down. I was about to buy 2 QRLites on some FOMO stuff. Instead I'll save my cheddar and get 2 normal QR2's to replace the two QR1s I already own.
that would have been nuts. There is no controller in the PRO for 200 you will still need the the hub for a 3rd party wheel.
@@____________________ok I remember the Simlab wheel side being $70USD + shipping. Oh well.
Always so informative… now I know how to pick the masterlock👌😎
I was hoping for the comeback of the Podium F1 Wheel Licensed for PlayStation. I want a better wheel base than just the GT DD Pro
apparently later this year, early next one we should have a csw DD.
Im going to but cs dd+ I wonder what version of qr2 i should buy for mclaren wheel?
as someone with a fanatec dd wheelbase and 3 qr1 wheels, this does feel like too little too late to me, do i want to switch all of my wheels onto a new quick release at 100 a piece or jus suffer through watching my friends nearly bash their face whenever they take one of my wheels off..
If you upgrade your system to QR2 normal version, it will only cost you 400 shipped to the door. Take in comparsion a Moza R9 wheelbase with 3 qr adapters, they want to charge you 620 shipped to the door. I think I will go Moza next time :)
Cone on man, it's CNC, we have been doing it for over 30 years. It's not black magic and not that expensive, especially mass produced.
However, it is good to see fantec doing something. Too late for my money, but good for them.
3:26 don't know why they didn't make one male & one female on both wheelbase & stem, then it's impossible to connect wrong 🙂
I think I might be overexaggerating but you might want to check the torque on the csl dd, it looked like the shaft moved a bit when you applied a lot of torque 12:22
aaaand theyre sold out. as nice as it would be to not have to tighten the screw-ring every time i put the wheel on and off, i dont know if the $300 i would need to spend, for the type m base side and two wheel sides, would be worth it. i never really have an issue with rigidity of the current system.
Fanatec's business model leave's much to be desired and that's coming from someone who owns a lot of their products. Way too much flex for me I'm sticking with my QR1's, I see no reason to "upgrade!"
True.
First thing I did when I got my CSL DD was to replace the shaft clamp with a two piece clamp, I haven't had any issues with clonking or wheel wobble. I did try the QR1 but found the QR1 Lite provided a better wobble free experience, and more convenience, no messing about with Thrustmaster style screws. Will I change to a QR2? Not unless the QR1 Lite stops doing a stella job. I've tried a few wheel combos with the 8Nm CSL DD, I found it's particularly sensitive to weight, it really comes alive with the WRC wheel/QR1 Lite, and I've taken to using the CSL DD exclusively with that wheel.
Hold a lot to upgrade my plastic qr1… the spending day arrive
have u or anyone in the comments got a spare qr1 type c base side quick releas??? thanks
My QR1 is grabage, the lock nut walks its way out after an hour and you start getting the clunk clunk when apexing. I hate that i need to buy something to fix a design flaw but I guess its cheaper than bin and rebuy another eco system.
You're giving the Lock Picking Lawyer a run for his money
15:40 "horrible skills" casually kills a couple corners lol
Hello thanks for the informative video but which one fits on the GT DD pro? All of them ?
It's good, but i still don't believe it's better than moza's qr, it's so clean, strong and such a nice simple frame
Moza QR sucks honestly
@@Bobbarker23455 can you elaborate on that?
I removed the original quick Release of my DD1 almost the second i got it. I won't be going back to any of the Fanatec quick Release Systems. Im very happy with my 3rd party quick Release System. Also i am no longer limited to Fanatec wheels. I love Moza wheels as much as my F1 2.5x, and in VR i dont even see the one additional cable going to the Wheel.
which one is that
@@randomcallsign With the wheel being bolted directly to the DD1 there is no play at all, i just love it. (Its an old genuine Momo Porsche wheel i got for dirt cheap)
CSL Elite bases need not apply?
CSL Elite Bases are not compatible.
@@momorious sad face. Although I have thought about moving to a DD wb. Maybe I'll wait for the QR2 to come to production ones.
Dang over 200$ just to quickly swap wheels out? Glad I went with moza in the end lol even tho I basically just use the GT rim for everything it’s still nice to have the option to quickly swap to a circular rim for oval racing. I just don’t think it’s all that useful tbh, convenient as hell but really kinda pointless to be spending over 200$ just to quickly swap wheels. To each their own though I guess.
Would the quick release at the base stop the base from turning on or connecting to anything
Are you planning on doing a review for the Thrustmaster TH8S?
no. Thrustmaster doesnt really want to send equipment to me and I stopped asking.
Quick question, in left right movements, is the steering wheel coupling perfect? Or you feel slight movements between the steering base and the wheel? For me would be very annoying, I would make sure before to buy it. Thanks a lot
The coupling doesn't move.
Lock picking lawyer lol, nice. One of my favorite oddsites
Great Video! Presently running the qr1-lite on my wheels, been mostly happy with them, never had the metal QR1. Seriously considering the upgrade to QR2, think I should go for it? Was going to upgrade to metal QR1 anyway.
Are you happy with what you have? If you are, this upgrade may not make sense yet.
Indeed, only real issue I have with the qr1-lite is when the plastic makes this creaking sound. Doesn’t help the confidence levels. Would prefer a mount made of aluminum or steel.
I still have not had any problem with my QR1 lite (probably thanks to the electrical tape mod), and this was $215 shipped to my door... So I will skip this one :) I would have liked the clamp. I think its wierd they say they are not sure if would work.. cause the new and old QR axles should be the same diameter....... so it sounds a little BS to me :) about the flex.. Ive seen more flex in real cars, so I would not be worried :)
the pricing is crazy
All looks great. I think some of the flex yoh where perceiving was actually your rig itself rather than even the backplate of the wheel.. also annoys me more than jt should you have the fanatec sticker facing away from you in the McLaren wheel 😂🤣😂 anyways i willl certainly be upgrading down the line. Thanks for the video.
Guess now we just wait for the quality control issues to show...
That is the clamp that came factory on my Podium DD1 and obviously I'm using a QR1.. So if they question that, then you're saying Fanatec intentionally and knowingly sent me something they can't guarantee??
Dd1 clamp doesn't change. Csl dd clamp does.
@@randomcallsign My question is why would they do that if they openly tell consumers they don't know how it works with the QR1 in general.. What hes saying makes it sound like they just slapped it on their most expensive base with no to minimal research.. I didn't think it was just mine..
I don't get what you are saying. They changed the wheel side quick release and kept the clamp because it didn't need to be changed. Only the csl dd changes the clamp.
You don't have to change the qr at all if you feel its good enough. Same with csl dd
I never had problems with the qr1 in it.
@@randomcallsign I've only had it a month and a half and already had to put on the spare QR1 they provided.. It clicked so loud my neighbor could hear it (living in a hotel while house shopping in a crappy market).. So I am getting the upgrade if the site stops crashing..
Woaw. What wheel is that at 01:31???
the bentley wheel that is vapourware
QR1 is ok for me. I'd prefer to update v3 pedals.
I’ve got 2 good QR1’s and 1 bad one. Doesn’t seem worth it for me to upgrade. I will run what I’ve got till it dies then try a different brand. No hate for Fanatec but I want to try something else at some point in the same way that I change brands of cars I drive every few years.
looking at this qr issue i think most guys just shake too much to check if its moving. your whole set up was moving when you were checking the movement, no wonder these brake so fast
what game is it? the viewpoint looks great
Good review mate !
Thanks! 👍
Thanks for your detailed review! Very useful.
In my opinion
- dumb design, way too big and fat
- you have to replace all your previous Fanates QRs, wheel holders etc. and have to spend lot of money again
- 'Lite' version can be broken quickly, if you check there's a 90 degree around where you attach to the wheel without strengthen legs and that's not an encouraging sign for plastic parts
I have the DD1 Podium with two wheels. For the same price to upgrade my two wheels and base I could purchase a new wheel with the v2 hub 🤣
... sold out.
After 2 days of the website not working
bought my CSL DD last week.
keep hearing about issues with the shaft that connects to the wheel.
If I don’t change it what exactly will happen over time? My main concern is will I be able to fix it in the future or will I be out of a CSL DD
I have CSL DD 8Nm and get the knock where there is play between wheel and shaft. Putting ptfe plumbers tape on shaft addresses it temporarily but I was worried that it will break pins over time. I’m tempted to get QR2.
Naw im switching to moza with this.
Ok so you have to buy the QR AND the adaptor for the base?
I think I'm gonna stick with my rock solid, aluminum adapter from MME motorsports.
Of course you have to buy both as the two QR systems are obviously incompatible with each other.
@@momorious or get this... Knowing that the bases are going to need the new shafts to work with the new QRs, they could sell them together. What a novel idea it is not to ass fuck your customers at every turn.
Is it worth it if you're getting a new csl dd? I assume you can get the 2 lite included and then pay for the type c adapter for the base
Maybe in the future you get the shaft aswell for QR2 included, right now only the Podium wheelbases have QR2 as standard, while on CSL DD it says its future proof and upgradeable to QR2
The shaft doesn't look as cool now tho , looked more like a real steering shaft on the old one 🤔
Except that this QR is also used in the BMW GT3 and GT4... so this is the real thing.
Fanatecs QR2 looks a lot like krontecs qr that is used on racecars. Actually, i would go so far to say they almost look identical.
@@____________________ok not sure you are trying to be funny. Krontec is used in racingcars and is very famous. Im sure simlab copied krontec
U think the but.,,, part on this video was the reason they didn’t send u a clubsport dd 😂 I was really hoping u would get that base interview I really was. Will u buy it?
Hi, I won't buy the clubsport dd. Whatever I have is sufficient. If they send it, I'll review.
Is the Type-C shaft made of METAl oir plastic ? because it's looks like black plastic
cast aluminum
@@randomcallsign I think now this thing is more resposive and the force feedback is more good ? and could this be a good choice for XBOX in Forza Horizon 5
You're overlooking that qr2 is going to become the new fanatec standard so if you have an old wheel with a QR1 it's going to be harder to sell.
At the most it will just mean the value of your wheel is reduced by 60-100 as a QR2 wheel side will be needed to use it with the new bases.
Is the distance from the wheel base to the wheel? The same as before with the qr2
roughly same as before as fanatecs wheel has electronics.
good question
its kinda funny to see qr2 pro on csl wheel
"this is not about my drifting skills" HA XD (what game is that?)
assetto corsa
Wth is this bentley wheel? It's not from Fanatec isn't it?
Whats this wheel at 1:31 ?
Podium Bentley GT3
Thx. found out by myself some minutes later 😅. nice looking wheel
If you want something rigid buy Moza or simmagic
Sorry but moza and simucube both have wheel wobble. Stop being a shill.
Is there anyway to upgrade the clubsport v2.5 wheel base to the qr2?
No.
@momorious what if the wire internal wires where manually joined to the new shaft? Isn't the pin count the same on the qr?
I was thinking the same about the wires but the shaft size maybe different and not a direct fit. The Clubsport v2.5 is so good that there is no need to upgrade fro my type of gaming.
@birit911 yeah the cs v2.5 was ahead of it's time. I'm looking at picking up a used v2.5 base and wheel on the cheap. I'm worried the wheel wobble is going to annoy the heck out of but the cost of the dd bundles and then adding the qr2 onto is getting close to the price of a new car.
I doubt they waited 2 years and lost so much customers just to have a proper tolerances and FIA homologation. I think they just wanted to clear as much QR1 stock they could before release. I think they wouldn't release it even now if not for MOZA R3 giving an option for console user's. So we should thank MOZA for this, more than Fanatec. It was a DO or BUST for Fanatec.
there will be qr1 stock for 1 to 2 years
Fanatec sells so much more products than moza it's not even close
"Not worth paying for the QR2 because WTF would you need an FIA certified QR?"
I paid for my QR2 Pro because it's waaaaaay less in demand, thus I got it waaaaaaaaaaay quicker.........more than worth the extra $100 AND it looks so much better :P
fair
Will the qr2 lite be better than the qr1?
strictly speaking, yes. Relatively speaking, like I say in the video, if you are happy with the QR1, not worth the upgrade.
its 510$ for the qr2 and the base side in australia.
bloody joke. fully half the price of the wheel, base and pedals, csl deal in oz.
@@grinnerzakaminicide1201 Yeah i was interested as my qr1 has slop, till i saw the price then went NOPE. Finding it verry hard to recommend Fanatec these days. Moza's quality control/customer service is only thing that holds me back from fully recommending them.
I don't know how these sim race TH-cam influencers can recommend this with a straight face.
Drift? Never heard of her 😂
Personally seeing the new QR2 perform about the same in terms of wheel wobble. I mean sure you wont have the clicking feel of the old QR1 and old shaft when it comes to the wheel wobble. You won't hear it but from what I can tell the wheels don't seem anymore fixed in place than the QR1 or QR1 lite. So you will still feel it. Personally I think the QR2 is still tremendously under the bar. With Moza, Asetek, and Simucubes wheels all being very firm when fitted onto their wheel bases. It leaves me curious as to why anyone would decide to upgrade from one wobbly QR to another. Even if its not entirely the QR 2 and more of the wheel back plates it still brings the question to mind as why would anyone upgrade for the same experience minus the audible clicks between the shaft and older QR1s. Maybe this can all be chalked up to certain wheels not being sturdy, or the button box HUBs are causing flex in the wheels. It may not be the QRs fault at all. But there's still far too much play in the system for me to want to pick up the fanatec ecosystem. Still looking at moza and Asetek. They are both the top contenders in the rising DD market. Fanatec is feeling alittle stagnant these days.
This performs way better
No yaw movement. No clicking. Positive grab. I need to make a huge amount of force enough to make the rig move (which I did for the test) so you'd see any movement
The qr system is solid.
Did you watch the video?
If you're not changing wheels frequently the MME adaptor is drastically better.
Welcome to the QR elitist club fanatec.
So now i have to buy one for every wheel 🙄 neh
QR2 looking great, but seems to me it'll still take a while before Fanatec can finish their transition with a new CSL DD, when Moza is still out there sitting on their former throne for the most part.
F sold out. They could make a pre order for prodium owners. Took way to long.
the lighter one is going to make me faster 😁
300 eur wtf????
That's just for the FIA approved Pro Bundle. Regular for P DD is 200. For CSL and GT DD even only 160 or 110.
Yeah it's kinda cool but it's highly overpriced man and the budget one cost around the same as a Moza QR but it's cheaply made and it's plastic that's terrible and for the quality one it's $200 for real dude so not worth it at all what a rip off F fanatecill stick with Moza you get more for your money and practically no plastic and there QR is literally the same thing that's used in race cars they are NRG style QR,s fanatec sucks the only thing they have on Moza is that ove RT priced boost pack for a base that half plastic and cones with a wheel that's entirely made of plastic even the QR and needs a grub screw to be solid which entirely defeats r purpose of a quick release fanatec sucks
200$ HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA ....... no.
This looks like an ugly, overcomplicated design that is overpriced. No thanks Fanatec
Like aways. You have no clue about anything. Mashining this peace from aluminum block is like 30 to 50 dollars. With that amount of units they produce it's super cheap to mashine this. People think cnc is super expensive. Well. It's not. Especially if you do it in China. Like fanatec
OK, cool . 50bucks machining. Whats the cost of nickel plating? What is the profit margin after delivery? Whats the overhead?
My dude, you have really no clue what you are talking about.
This should cost no more than 60$, specifically when all the competitors brands have reliable solutions since year's already, and prices are between 30 to 60$
@@randomcallsignnickel plating is less than half dollar. Profit margin is 3 to 1. Very little R&D on this mount.