After watching a video by Wayalife on the Dynatrac Pro Rock 44, they actually say that the new Pro Rock 44 is bigger than the old Dana 60 from the previous generation that Eddie had 40's on. This is why I planned on going Pro Rock 44's on my Jeep to run 40's. and save a few thousand dollars.
yeah, I have broke dana 44 spider gears, bent the housings, twisted the center section on the axle tubes, stripped the ring and pinion snapped shafts and u joints, broke the locking hub and it shot out into the woods. So yeah I think they are weak. This was all done with 35's and 275 hp.
Clearly they weren't upgraded in any way. If you were popping spiders, the carriers probably sound like they were stock, stock carrier, you probably didn't have chromo shafts All that aside though, you even started with d44. Found your use needed something else, and went that route. Even you didn't go straight to SD 60. Just like you don't have MRAP axles, Probably for the reasons I listed but if you found your use outpaced the SD 60 it would make sense to go MRAP
Outstanding food for thought, not to make comparisons but very nutnfancy. Direct, to the point, experience based info. Take it or leave it. Appreciate you and your work, thank you for sharing 🙏🏾
I was always told if you were planning a v8, 37s or bigger, and actually doing hardcore crawling it was highly recomended. One tons have a specific application that applies to few people.
@6:36 I ask what have you personally experienced. Because "I was always told....." is the literal one and only reason this video needed to be put out there
I had a buddy in my group this past weekend snap the front housing in half on his K5 with 33's coming down a hill in the dunes. Personally have never run a 44, (unless you count the ttb front end under my obs that I used to wheel on 33's, never broke it) but I have a 60 in my crawler on 37s and never had issues with it. I can drive it to and from the trails with the piece of mind I won't ruin the weekend by snapping the frontend in half driving through dunes and spend the entire day trying to recover the vehicle. Got a suburban on 35's running mild trails in the mountains? Get the dodge 44 that matches the bolt pattern of the 10 bolt rear, when you break it upgrade to the dodge 60 and grab a 14 bolt. I think that is a great solution. People that have a second rig they like to drive out to hammers? Spring for the dana 60. You can grab a set of superduties for under a grand, they already come with 35 spline shafts, lots of aftermarket, you can swap a set into nearly any modern jeep with a truss kit. Way easier to find parts for, and to package than an mrap axle. You also bring up Nate, he has broken his axle (with RCVs) multiple times, and is now hoing the 609 route (best route imo but just $$). Matt also swapped out his 44 for a superduty 60 since he was breaking shafts. I agree with many of your points, but the reality is your axle choice is application based. Using the arguement that you have to personally break a 44 to justify a 60 is rediculous. The better arguemnt to get out and actually wheel with your rig stock, look at your driving style, the trails you want to run, ect. And look at what other people that are doing what you want to do, see what works/doesn't work, and design/build accordingly.
Nates RCLT taco has factory tacoma diffs on his. He swapped the axles to custom built tubes, but the centers are stock Toyota 8.2 diffs with the most reduction you can get for those
Good video. I agree with you. All Dana 44’s are not equal. I ran 37’s on my 78 bronco for years with minimal problems, but I’m currently stepping it up, but I’m planning on hitting a lot rougher trails soon.
Your position has significant merit, especially pointing out the tradeoffs. What you didn't mention is that many who subscribe to the one ton movement also go for the biggest tires and aggressive driving in very rocky trails. God forgives. Rocks don't. When a heavy spinning object like 40 inch tires bounce up against an immovable rock, something has to give. That something will be the weakest part of the drive line, bearing in mind that the torque shock starts at the tire, gets amplified by the lever length (tire diameter), and then carried inward to where something breaks. The skinny pedal is far more responsible for broken axles and u-joints than any type of axle. I've been wheeling for 57 years and have always been budget-challenged. Kids clothes and school took priority. I drove an old 72' Scout II until an engine fire cooked it, and while I did put lockers in it I also drive carefully. Yes, I've broken the short stub shaft and a couple hubs, and twisted a rear shaft pretty bad - in the stock Dana 44s - but I also had to run junk yard parts because I could not afford chromoly shafts. The Rubicon and other famous trails just take more time to do carefully. They are just as much fun when you didn't break the bank to do it. I now have a '95 Jeep ZJ Grand Cherokee.... Stock front axle but with chromoly axles and an ARB locker, and I replaced the junk aluminum jeep D44 with a Ford 8.8 (basically a steel D44 equivalent) from a 2000 Explorer. It also has an ARB. I have the 5.2 L stock motor etc, and enjoy the heck out of it. Thanks for your comments. One of these days I'll get the old Scout running again. What it lacks in creature comforts it makes up for in character. I found a T19 wide ratio tranny for it and a D300 along with 4.56 gears gives me about 72:1 reduction, dang close to the same as a Jeep Rubicon. You can walk much faster.
The tone was kind, but you are incorrect in your statement. You may not have watched the video all the way through. So I won't make you watch this long thing again, I'll list the time stamps in this comment you said i didn't take into account those who opt for big rocks, big tires, and a heavy foot At 5:46 I literally mention that not everyone goes for big tires and rock bouncing...there's even a video on screen of a heavy foot, big tire rig bouncing off rocks saying "not this" in big letters I started the video making it clear that this is from a perspective of solid axle swapping GM full size, I make that statement in the first 30 seconds of the video right around 0:23 Then at 22:45 I state that whatever a person is able to do with factory GM IFS does can not physically be anywhere near the needs of a SD 60 So the hypothetical person in question can't be one of the big tire/ heavy foot rock- bouncing people you said I didn't mention. I mentioned it multiple times, in multiple contexts. I guess you missed it
Well sir I actually have snapped Dana 44 axles under my 84 dodge prospector. I did it in sand full locked to the left climbing up a 3' sand bar. Also snapped the joint on the passenger side. All while running 35s. Bent plenty of axle tubes as well. I don't think you have as much experience in hard core crawling to say these things about Dana axles. You even said you don't wheel hard so how would you really know. So yes I stick with Dana 60 fronts in full size trucks, get cromos and a good locker and be done. And they are stupid for paying that much for wheel hub bearings. Just re-drill the $150 ones from O'Reilly's.
Exactly YOU Needed to do something different But it would be incorrect for you to tell everyone that they should do what you did Just because it's what you needed
@tjs_welding_and_fabrication This is all set in the context of solid axle conversions of gm full size You are the absolute perfect candidate for a ford super duty axle You don't need any of the things that are traded off with the ford super duty axle That axle is designed to be used in a worktruck And that's exactly what you use it for Though I do feel like it is worth noting that. As is shown in this video what you experienced could have been solved with cromoly axle shafts And ball joints To the point that it would be stronger than what you have currently Since G m hasn't used The forty four in half ton in close to fifty years I would imagine that you Replace the ancient truck with a newer one got more reasons than just Ball joints and axle issues But if for some reason you did, You would have ended up with a stronger product than what you have now by replacing just a handful of small parts And I stress, That I'm talking about stock SD parts. Not upgraded s d parts because you have not upgrade those
@tahoverlanding I also broke the frame in half right in front of the shock mounts on both pass side and drivers side. This was on 85 k10. Previous owner probably added to this issue. I fixed this during a snow storm. Pulled the truck in. Pulled the engine. Lined up the frame cracks. No frame machine here. Welded it up and boxed in that area. Fish plated that area as well. Welded up the riveted crossmember too. Put it back together and out plowing the next day. Remember the square body half tons had weak points in the frame and where the steering box albeit with more stress. Also many other weak points.
I've a 1976 D44n Waggy front axle that I'm building out to fit my ol' '65 Scout. The housing is much thicker, it also has flat top outers... I've yet to break D27's on 32" tires with the 3.2 four popper. I'm betting that breaking axles has a lot to do with drivers knowing how to drive their rig..
I believe you @tahoverlanding, but my Chevy express van 3500 is kinda heavy, and of course I'm not planning rock crawling any time soon, but I'll love to know if you still think a real danna 44 would be good option for it, I trust you man, and I'll definitely want to take your expertise into consideration. Thanks for the reply in advance.
How much can you move the wheelbase forward with this setup before running into steering issues? Id like to get at least 2" farther forward to keep low height and a lot of flez on 37s. Its a non z71 suburban. Id like to keep the lift height in the front around 6-8" higher than stock just because of the longer wheelbase than the tahoe. I believe the wheelbase is 13 or 15 " longer than the tahoe.
@heathcarr1105 our standard swap moves it forward 1.5" which allows maximum tuck upward. 2" is right on the edge, it might still work. That will depend on how low you Set your bump stops. but if it still interferes you can get our steering box installation kit. It will allow you to move the steering box forward as far as you need to solve issues with steering
@heathcarr1105 it's on the GMT900 page because all GMT900 need to add a steering box because they have a rack and pinion Click the "more information" button right below it for a short video about it
@tahoverlanding I been watching your videos for a few years. I've got an axle and everything to convert my 2wd burb except the shifter for a 241. I need to go ahead and pull the trigger on the swap
@heathcarr1105 years huh? I like supporting my followers. Let's get her done, I'll toss you a 15% discount And these guys make a great shifter for the 241C jb-custom-fabrication.myshopify.com/products/cable-shifter-single-np241-billet-style-p-n-np241c
@adventuresiwork3563 look close, the mounting points are there. But it's not necessary with proper suspension/steering geometry. One or two customers have added stabilizers using the mounting that's there, but on the whole it's not all that necessary. So hardly anyone runs them with our kit
@@tahoverlanding and the 2nd if I travel somewhere and break the parts of the availability of Ford super duty parts, you can walk into almost any NAPA or O’Reillys in America, and have the parts sitting on the shelf
@jaboff-road1776 for the record, I'm not personally aware of a single D44 having c clips. Even in the rear they were non c- clip axles. I'd love to hear what d44 that was, i like learning new things. You're a great SD D60 candidate, 54s is definitely SD axle territory. Anything north of 40 is. You in your own experience, knew what you needed. You weren't looking to the internet to find out what axle to use. This is all for the guys who don't have the experience, and go to the internet to find out. So last question, are you the type to tell someone to go SD D60 for their very first solid axle?
Love your videos man im just getting into the 4x4 knowlage and everything but the MAIN point of this video if im not wrong is "everyone who tell you that you have to do it that way or CANT be done this way"...has never tried it and has been told by someone who has never done it nor tried it and that just gos on down the line...for perfect exsample home engine work..i just did not long ago a complete head swap on a engine that overheaded and cracked the head..your told by allmost everyone that decking a head and or block at home cant be done or if done will mess up compression ratios or this or that..I did it..didnt lisin to this or that he said she said..and that engine runs just as good as factory and IS TO factory specs nothing i mean NOTHING bad about it. You ask the right people who HAVE done it i.e. old school hot rodders and old school drive way mecanics will tell you it DEFINITELY can be done and anyone who tells you differently is wrong. Hell you can even straighten a warped head with a torch in the right spots and some pressure in other spots...sorry to drag on i think ingot the main point of the video keep it going many people are steered in the wrong direction by asking the "you HAVE TO" or the "that'll NEVER work" guys..
When you actually start off roading, you know the kind " trailer queen " rock crawlers do, you will find that U joints and ring gears are the two items that fail the most often. The dana 60 is much stonger in both areas than a dana 44 ever will be. The reason everyone goes to ford super duty axles is because they havnt produced a GM dana 44 front in like four decades, and because people who ACTUALLY off road have destroyed, and scrapped most of the dana 44 fronts.
You "actually off road" right? Out of curiousity, what are your answers to the first question at 6:34? and the second question at 7:48? For the record the #tahoverlandingaxleswap doesn't use gm axles (I ask everybody) The #tahoverlandingaxleswap is compatible with axles equipped in model years from 1994 all the way up to current model year. See 24:58
I have a jku, with that weak D30 up front and since I'm on the other side of the pond, I'm torturing that poor axle with torque of the diesel and have yet to break anything but the balljoints. However one axle tube seems to be slightly bend but that's it.
I have a Super Duty Dana 60 in my truck, but it is a 8k pound diesel crew cab on 37s. Do I specifically need it? Probably not but I like knowing its there and I stand little chance of hurting it.
Totally valid reason, you opted to trade that strength you've not yet proven to need, for the multiple large downsides of the SD. And I think it's especially valid because you are already diesel. It's a different situation for you than someone with a half Ton truck with a gas engine I'm all for people Having a reason and then pursuing it. The point of this video was more to show people that the super duty axle is not the exact same thing just stronger. I feel so many people think that it is the same thing with just strength and no other downsides. Out of curiousity What are your answers to the questions at 6:34 & 7:48 ? Also are you the type to recommend someone Starting a solid axle swap to go with a Dana 60? I am genuinely curious, i really like to know people's points of view
@@tahoverlandingI run standard off the shelf 8x170 front hubs and the rear I have billet hub centric conversion adapters in the rear. Tried to use the most off the shelf parts I could to avoid issues on the road because the truck is a "do it all" vehicle.
@kylescaggs so you converted the whole truck to 8x170? Adapters, and wheels. Have you tallied up the entire cost of your swap? Which route did you take a kit like WFO or ORD? home- built from components? Radius Arm? Leaf spring? And finally, if you're 100% honest did you consider a dodge 1 ton axle was even an option? The reasons you mentioned, it would have kept you 8x6.5, without needing to internet- only wheel adapters. Without the weak point of wheel adapters. I see so many people go SD axles and after the fact admit that they didn't even consider dodge an option.
@tahoverlanding I have the WFO radius arm kit on my truck, when I did the swap it was the only "kit" for something other than leaf springs, it was also about half the cost it is now when I bought it. Also scored several deals on parts including some new in the box coilovers for $400 which helped a lot. Truck is about 3 inches taller than stock rear height which I'm not a huge fan of but it's a necessary evil as you know. I'd love the build a low slung half ton to daily drive some day probably will be a Tahoe or Suburban family hauler when my wife gets tired of her big SUV some day.
If you break a healthy high pinion 44 on a half ton truck ….most likely you are hammering the shit out them. We use to haul at 230,000 lb gross weight with 36,000lb diffs with no issues. It’s all about the operator.
One thing to keep in mind with the TH-camrs is they have to make new content especially the TH-cam channels that do this making a living. Yes it’s fun to watch but don’t please don’t take that as gospel. The Dana 44 is definitely stout enough for what the average off-roader will do. Yes I have had some problems but with mud tires and a front locker I wouldn’t have to drive as hard as I have in the past, so we will count that as user error not axle problems.
You're totally right, that's why at 10:30 I used examples like @Mattsoffroadrecovery to show what legit wheelers did for years before becoming youtube famous. After getting youtube famous it was all one ton axles, MRAPs and selling merchandise
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I’m pretty convinced that Dana 44s and Toyota 8” are all that most builds need.
And I know I'm in the small small minority, but we need a good solid axle kit for the s10s.
Let's talk
Dm me on instagram, or tahoverlanding.com/contact-us
I think that would be an excellent selling kit. Especially a kit that pushes the fron axle forward 2.5"+ forward.
After watching a video by Wayalife on the Dynatrac Pro Rock 44, they actually say that the new Pro Rock 44 is bigger than the old Dana 60 from the previous generation that Eddie had 40's on. This is why I planned on going Pro Rock 44's on my Jeep to run 40's. and save a few thousand dollars.
Oh shit fr?
Don’t forget the Jana 54 kit, there you get closer to dana 60 strength in the ring and pinion in a dana 44 housing.
yeah, I have broke dana 44 spider gears, bent the housings, twisted the center section on the axle tubes, stripped the ring and pinion snapped shafts and u joints, broke the locking hub and it shot out into the woods. So yeah I think they are weak. This was all done with 35's and 275 hp.
Clearly they weren't upgraded in any way. If you were popping spiders, the carriers probably sound like they were stock, stock carrier, you probably didn't have chromo shafts
All that aside though, you even started with d44. Found your use needed something else, and went that route. Even you didn't go straight to SD 60.
Just like you don't have MRAP axles,
Probably for the reasons I listed
but if you found your use outpaced the SD 60 it would make sense to go MRAP
Outstanding food for thought, not to make comparisons but very nutnfancy. Direct, to the point, experience based info. Take it or leave it. Appreciate you and your work, thank you for sharing 🙏🏾
I've definitely broken Dana 30's on XJs with minimal abuse. Looking forward to breaking the Dana 44 on the Suburban.
I was always told if you were planning a v8, 37s or bigger, and actually doing hardcore crawling it was highly recomended. One tons have a specific application that applies to few people.
@6:36 I ask what have you personally experienced. Because "I was always told....." is the literal one and only reason this video needed to be put out there
I had a buddy in my group this past weekend snap the front housing in half on his K5 with 33's coming down a hill in the dunes. Personally have never run a 44, (unless you count the ttb front end under my obs that I used to wheel on 33's, never broke it) but I have a 60 in my crawler on 37s and never had issues with it. I can drive it to and from the trails with the piece of mind I won't ruin the weekend by snapping the frontend in half driving through dunes and spend the entire day trying to recover the vehicle.
Got a suburban on 35's running mild trails in the mountains? Get the dodge 44 that matches the bolt pattern of the 10 bolt rear, when you break it upgrade to the dodge 60 and grab a 14 bolt. I think that is a great solution.
People that have a second rig they like to drive out to hammers? Spring for the dana 60. You can grab a set of superduties for under a grand, they already come with 35 spline shafts, lots of aftermarket, you can swap a set into nearly any modern jeep with a truss kit. Way easier to find parts for, and to package than an mrap axle.
You also bring up Nate, he has broken his axle (with RCVs) multiple times, and is now hoing the 609 route (best route imo but just $$). Matt also swapped out his 44 for a superduty 60 since he was breaking shafts.
I agree with many of your points, but the reality is your axle choice is application based. Using the arguement that you have to personally break a 44 to justify a 60 is rediculous. The better arguemnt to get out and actually wheel with your rig stock, look at your driving style, the trails you want to run, ect. And look at what other people that are doing what you want to do, see what works/doesn't work, and design/build accordingly.
Nates RCLT taco has factory tacoma diffs on his. He swapped the axles to custom built tubes, but the centers are stock Toyota 8.2 diffs with the most reduction you can get for those
Exactly, Even he doesn't go straight to one ton axles. He knows
Good video. I agree with you. All Dana 44’s are not equal. I ran 37’s on my 78 bronco for years with minimal problems, but I’m currently stepping it up, but I’m planning on hitting a lot rougher trails soon.
Your position has significant merit, especially pointing out the tradeoffs. What you didn't mention is that many who subscribe to the one ton movement also go for the biggest tires and aggressive driving in very rocky trails. God forgives. Rocks don't. When a heavy spinning object like 40 inch tires bounce up against an immovable rock, something has to give. That something will be the weakest part of the drive line, bearing in mind that the torque shock starts at the tire, gets amplified by the lever length (tire diameter), and then carried inward to where something breaks. The skinny pedal is far more responsible for broken axles and u-joints than any type of axle. I've been wheeling for 57 years and have always been budget-challenged. Kids clothes and school took priority. I drove an old 72' Scout II until an engine fire cooked it, and while I did put lockers in it I also drive carefully. Yes, I've broken the short stub shaft and a couple hubs, and twisted a rear shaft pretty bad - in the stock Dana 44s - but I also had to run junk yard parts because I could not afford chromoly shafts. The Rubicon and other famous trails just take more time to do carefully. They are just as much fun when you didn't break the bank to do it. I now have a '95 Jeep ZJ Grand Cherokee.... Stock front axle but with chromoly axles and an ARB locker, and I replaced the junk aluminum jeep D44 with a Ford 8.8 (basically a steel D44 equivalent) from a 2000 Explorer. It also has an ARB. I have the 5.2 L stock motor etc, and enjoy the heck out of it.
Thanks for your comments. One of these days I'll get the old Scout running again. What it lacks in creature comforts it makes up for in character. I found a T19 wide ratio tranny for it and a D300 along with 4.56 gears gives me about 72:1 reduction, dang close to the same as a Jeep Rubicon. You can walk much faster.
The tone was kind, but you are incorrect in your statement. You may not have watched the video all the way through. So I won't make you watch this long thing again, I'll list the time stamps in this comment
you said i didn't take into account those who opt for big rocks, big tires, and a heavy foot
At 5:46 I literally mention that not everyone goes for big tires and rock bouncing...there's even a video on screen of a heavy foot, big tire rig bouncing off rocks saying "not this" in big letters
I started the video making it clear that this is from a perspective of solid axle swapping GM full size, I make that statement in the first 30 seconds of the video right around 0:23
Then at 22:45 I state that whatever a person is able to do with factory GM IFS does can not physically be anywhere near the needs of a SD 60
So the hypothetical person in question can't be one of the big tire/ heavy foot rock- bouncing people you said I didn't mention.
I mentioned it multiple times, in multiple contexts. I guess you missed it
Well sir I actually have snapped Dana 44 axles under my 84 dodge prospector. I did it in sand full locked to the left climbing up a 3' sand bar. Also snapped the joint on the passenger side. All while running 35s. Bent plenty of axle tubes as well. I don't think you have as much experience in hard core crawling to say these things about Dana axles. You even said you don't wheel hard so how would you really know.
So yes I stick with Dana 60 fronts in full size trucks, get cromos and a good locker and be done. And they are stupid for paying that much for wheel hub bearings. Just re-drill the $150 ones from O'Reilly's.
Exactly YOU Needed to do something different
But it would be incorrect for you to tell everyone that they should do what you did Just because it's what you needed
Good vid. I busted dana 44 plowing snow in a half ton square body. Twice. Never again.
Do you remember what failed? Axle shafts? Ball joints? Carrier? Gear tooth? U- joints? Axle tube?
And pushing snow is rough on parts for sure
@tahoverlanding shaft, ball joints and u joints. Running a f250sd truck now. In 16 plus years only replace u joints.
@tjs_welding_and_fabrication This is all set in the context of solid axle conversions of gm full size
You are the absolute perfect candidate for a ford super duty axle You don't need any of the things that are traded off with the ford super duty axle
That axle is designed to be used in a worktruck And that's exactly what you use it for
Though I do feel like it is worth noting that. As is shown in this video what you experienced could have been solved with cromoly axle shafts And ball joints To the point that it would be stronger than what you have currently
Since G m hasn't used The forty four in half ton in close to fifty years I would imagine that you Replace the ancient truck with a newer one got more reasons than just Ball joints and axle issues
But if for some reason you did, You would have ended up with a stronger product than what you have now by replacing just a handful of small parts
And I stress, That I'm talking about stock SD parts. Not upgraded s d parts because you have not upgrade those
@tahoverlanding I also broke the frame in half right in front of the shock mounts on both pass side and drivers side. This was on 85 k10. Previous owner probably added to this issue. I fixed this during a snow storm. Pulled the truck in. Pulled the engine. Lined up the frame cracks. No frame machine here. Welded it up and boxed in that area. Fish plated that area as well. Welded up the riveted crossmember too. Put it back together and out plowing the next day. Remember the square body half tons had weak points in the frame and where the steering box albeit with more stress. Also many other weak points.
I've a 1976 D44n Waggy front axle that I'm building out to fit my ol' '65 Scout. The housing is much thicker, it also has flat top outers... I've yet to break D27's on 32" tires with the 3.2 four popper. I'm betting that breaking axles has a lot to do with drivers knowing how to drive their rig..
I believe you @tahoverlanding, but my Chevy express van 3500 is kinda heavy, and of course I'm not planning rock crawling any time soon, but I'll love to know if you still think a real danna 44 would be good option for it, I trust you man, and I'll definitely want to take your expertise into consideration. Thanks for the reply in advance.
Ok, I buy it, but how can I keep my 8 lug set up on my express van 3500?
@alb2571 your best bet is a 1994-2001 ram 8 lug dana 60. But dodge did also have 8 lug dana 44 in their V8 (not v10 or diesel) 2500 trucks
How much can you move the wheelbase forward with this setup before running into steering issues? Id like to get at least 2" farther forward to keep low height and a lot of flez on 37s. Its a non z71 suburban. Id like to keep the lift height in the front around 6-8" higher than stock just because of the longer wheelbase than the tahoe. I believe the wheelbase is 13 or 15 " longer than the tahoe.
@heathcarr1105 our standard swap moves it forward 1.5" which allows maximum tuck upward.
2" is right on the edge, it might still work. That will depend on how low you Set your bump stops. but if it still interferes you can get our steering box installation kit.
It will allow you to move the steering box forward as far as you need to solve issues with steering
@@tahoverlanding that's awesome. Is the steering box kit available on your site as well?
@heathcarr1105 it's on the GMT900 page because all GMT900 need to add a steering box because they have a rack and pinion
Click the "more information" button right below it for a short video about it
@tahoverlanding I been watching your videos for a few years. I've got an axle and everything to convert my 2wd burb except the shifter for a 241. I need to go ahead and pull the trigger on the swap
@heathcarr1105 years huh? I like supporting my followers. Let's get her done, I'll toss you a 15% discount
And these guys make a great shifter for the 241C
jb-custom-fabrication.myshopify.com/products/cable-shifter-single-np241-billet-style-p-n-np241c
So with the kit for the gm trucks, I see you don’t have a steering stabilizer
@adventuresiwork3563 look close, the mounting points are there. But it's not necessary with proper suspension/steering geometry.
One or two customers have added stabilizers using the mounting that's there, but on the whole it's not all that necessary. So hardly anyone runs them with our kit
I’m going 60 front and 80 rear
Out of curiousity, what are your answers to the first question at 6:34? and the second question at 7:48?
@@tahoverlanding the first yes broke a c clip lost the axle shaft and tire
@@tahoverlanding and the 2nd if I travel somewhere and break the parts of the availability of Ford super duty parts, you can walk into almost any NAPA or O’Reillys in America, and have the parts sitting on the shelf
@@tahoverlanding I’m also going to be going with full hydro steering front and rear and 45s for Moab and sand hollow and 54s for winter in Colorado
@jaboff-road1776 for the record, I'm not personally aware of a single D44 having c clips. Even in the rear they were non c- clip axles.
I'd love to hear what d44 that was, i like learning new things.
You're a great SD D60 candidate, 54s is definitely SD axle territory. Anything north of 40 is.
You in your own experience, knew what you needed. You weren't looking to the internet to find out what axle to use.
This is all for the guys who don't have the experience, and go to the internet to find out.
So last question, are you the type to tell someone to go SD D60 for their very first solid axle?
Love your videos man im just getting into the 4x4 knowlage and everything but the MAIN point of this video if im not wrong is "everyone who tell you that you have to do it that way or CANT be done this way"...has never tried it and has been told by someone who has never done it nor tried it and that just gos on down the line...for perfect exsample home engine work..i just did not long ago a complete head swap on a engine that overheaded and cracked the head..your told by allmost everyone that decking a head and or block at home cant be done or if done will mess up compression ratios or this or that..I did it..didnt lisin to this or that he said she said..and that engine runs just as good as factory and IS TO factory specs nothing i mean NOTHING bad about it. You ask the right people who HAVE done it i.e. old school hot rodders and old school drive way mecanics will tell you it DEFINITELY can be done and anyone who tells you differently is wrong. Hell you can even straighten a warped head with a torch in the right spots and some pressure in other spots...sorry to drag on i think ingot the main point of the video keep it going many people are steered in the wrong direction by asking the "you HAVE TO" or the "that'll NEVER work" guys..
Agreed 👍
When you actually start off roading, you know the kind " trailer queen " rock crawlers do, you will find that U joints and ring gears are the two items that fail the most often. The dana 60 is much stonger in both areas than a dana 44 ever will be. The reason everyone goes to ford super duty axles is because they havnt produced a GM dana 44 front in like four decades, and because people who ACTUALLY off road have destroyed, and scrapped most of the dana 44 fronts.
You "actually off road" right? Out of curiousity, what are your answers to the first question at 6:34? and the second question at 7:48?
For the record the #tahoverlandingaxleswap doesn't use gm axles (I ask everybody)
The #tahoverlandingaxleswap is compatible with axles equipped in model years from 1994 all the way up to current model year. See 24:58
I have a jku, with that weak D30 up front and since I'm on the other side of the pond, I'm torturing that poor axle with torque of the diesel and have yet to break anything but the balljoints. However one axle tube seems to be slightly bend but that's it.
I just wanted a lift kit
I have a Super Duty Dana 60 in my truck, but it is a 8k pound diesel crew cab on 37s. Do I specifically need it? Probably not but I like knowing its there and I stand little chance of hurting it.
Totally valid reason, you opted to trade that strength you've not yet proven to need, for the multiple large downsides of the SD. And I think it's especially valid because you are already diesel. It's a different situation for you than someone with a half Ton truck with a gas engine
I'm all for people Having a reason and then pursuing it.
The point of this video was more to show people that the super duty axle is not the exact same thing just stronger. I feel so many people think that it is the same thing with just strength and no other downsides.
Out of curiousity
What are your answers to the questions at 6:34 & 7:48 ?
Also are you the type to recommend someone Starting a solid axle swap to go with a Dana 60?
I am genuinely curious, i really like to know people's points of view
Also, which route did you take for the different wheel bolt pattern?
Conversion hubs?
Wheel adapters?
Re-drilling hubs and rotors?
@@tahoverlandingI run standard off the shelf 8x170 front hubs and the rear I have billet hub centric conversion adapters in the rear. Tried to use the most off the shelf parts I could to avoid issues on the road because the truck is a "do it all" vehicle.
@kylescaggs so you converted the whole truck to 8x170?
Adapters, and wheels.
Have you tallied up the entire cost of your swap?
Which route did you take a kit like WFO or ORD? home- built from components? Radius Arm? Leaf spring?
And finally, if you're 100% honest did you consider a dodge 1 ton axle was even an option?
The reasons you mentioned, it would have kept you 8x6.5, without needing to internet- only wheel adapters. Without the weak point of wheel adapters.
I see so many people go SD axles and after the fact admit that they didn't even consider dodge an option.
@tahoverlanding I have the WFO radius arm kit on my truck, when I did the swap it was the only "kit" for something other than leaf springs, it was also about half the cost it is now when I bought it. Also scored several deals on parts including some new in the box coilovers for $400 which helped a lot. Truck is about 3 inches taller than stock rear height which I'm not a huge fan of but it's a necessary evil as you know. I'd love the build a low slung half ton to daily drive some day probably will be a Tahoe or Suburban family hauler when my wife gets tired of her big SUV some day.
If you break a healthy high pinion 44 on a half ton truck ….most likely you are hammering the shit out them.
We use to haul at 230,000 lb gross weight with 36,000lb diffs with no issues. It’s all about the operator.
One thing to keep in mind with the TH-camrs is they have to make new content especially the TH-cam channels that do this making a living. Yes it’s fun to watch but don’t please don’t take that as gospel. The Dana 44 is definitely stout enough for what the average off-roader will do. Yes I have had some problems but with mud tires and a front locker I wouldn’t have to drive as hard as I have in the past, so we will count that as user error not axle problems.
You're totally right, that's why at 10:30 I used examples like @Mattsoffroadrecovery to show what legit wheelers did for years before becoming youtube famous.
After getting youtube famous it was all one ton axles, MRAPs and selling merchandise
@@tahoverlanding 100% agree......