Well done to you both for taking this project on - I think it is important that these sort of beautiful cars are saved for future generations to enjoy. I like your light hearted and positive attitude to the project - it’s easy to get overwhelmed by these things. Keep going and sharing your progress with us, please.
She sounds good! My cousin and I had an identical one, 1972 petrol injection auto, Chrysler torqueflite (also fitted to a Matbro forklift truck, use that for spares route if you need any) There is a swirl tank in the boot which collects debris and water, beware of it when you get the fuel system sorted. advice from AM was to treat 7 gallons as the bottom of the tank, and expect it to misfire with any less! I had to do the head gaskets on it, scary stuff, but all the knowledge you need is in the owners handbook, including the timing procedure, complex. but doable! I was glad to hear it run again I can tell you. Good luck with it, I shall be watching! Phil
That's great to know and thanks for watching. If you know where to get any other parts, then please let us know. Brake discs were missing.. and it requires a few other parts.
superb to hear, superb noise and feeling, I really know how good you feel, nice you switched off immediately before any pressures built up or even a backfire might have occurred killing the injection system. Very Happy for you 🥰
I live near near Goodwood where they service and repair Spitfires. They do pleasure flights too in the two seaters. I always look out for them when you can hear they are flying.
@kevinseven6633 I was very lucky to fly a two seater HF Mk9 back in 2003 when my pilots license was still valid. It was a dream come true. And because I was recommended for it, I flew it from wheels up for 40 minutes. No aerobatics and no landing, the owner did all of that. Fuel costs were high then, can't imagine the cost now.
Great advice. We will keep it and run it in for sure. We plan to remove the ancillaries such as the water pump, the sump to check the bearings etc and will remove the rocker/cam covers to check the cams, and valves seals. I trust the people who rebuilt it, even though it's 34 years ago. I spoke to Bo Ridstrom of Bo Risdstrom Racing in Sweden just before Christmas and he confirm the build from the receipts we have. Bo is still working, he didn't remember the actual car, but he was the goto guy for Aston Vantage upgrades in Sweden in the 90's.
You're not far off the mark there. The front is almost perfect bar requiring a patch here and there. The tunnel and inner frame is still solid and the horizontal structures to the sills are good. Behind the rear seats is solid, so we have reference points. The bad news, it needs new sills, all floors, door checks, complete boot and rear chassis legs, parcel shelf, fuel filler surrounds, rear suspension mounts for the trailing/radius arms, door frames and rear door closer panels. I have all of them now and we start welding soon. Thanks for watching..
Hi! Dont worry! The gauge was broken, we confirmed oil pressure from an oil line on the top of the engine. We are somewhat new to the video making stuff so we forgot to include it :)
@@AstonTorslanda The AM V8 engines are febrile and oil pressure is everything. If you did not get relief valve pressure of 80 psi at cold start then don't run the engine. Ask me how I know.
@@holgerlubotzki3469 good call. The engine's coming out this weekend. Thanks for the input, we really would love any information we can get. Every car is different. Although I've rebuilt MG's, many UK cars, a few BMW's including a BMW E9, an early '71 Merc 350SL, and assorted engines, USA V8's included, I've never had an Aston V8. Love to hear everyones input.
@@AstonTorslanda The early AM V8 engines are unlike any other engine when it comes to bottom end tolerances. So are the 6 cylinder engines and there are horror stories out there about owners who took their DB6 engines to people who were experts with the Jaguar DOHC motors. If the engine you have was properly rebuilt by a reputable auto engineer then don't touch anything. Don't even be tempted to remove a big end cap to check a bearing clearance. I may have missed it in the video, but why was the car laid up only 7 miles after a rebuild? If you are taking the engine out I can tell you that you can leave the exhaust headers on if you disconnect the steering linkage at the steering rack so that it just flops around. It's a lot quicker and lot easier than removing the exhaust headers with the engine in the car. Also, removing the engine and gearbox gets a lot easier if you have a car hoist and can hoist the back end of the car and adjust the height to get the angle set to sling the motor forward. Once you have the engine out it's worth having the engine mounts and diff cradle checked for cracks in the corners. The early diff mounts are notorious for breaking at the front end mounting point - the welded plate separates from the cradle and then the front drops down and the tail shaft bottoms out in the nacelle in the chassis. The racket and vibration at 70 mph is terrifying when that happens! Even if there are no cracks it's worth having them all reinforced anyway. I'm in the final stages of a full restomod on my 1971 DBSV8. My car is only just back from bare metal respray and full interior trim. I've converted to a Tremec T-56 Magnum 6 speed gearbox and an 11 inch ACE racing clutch. I converted to fully sequential EFI before I started the current rebuild. I keep meaning to put some video on my channel but stuff keeps getting in the way. The other thing you will find out is that parts for these cars are insanely expensive, assuming that they are still available (a lot of stuff isn't!) I had a set of new pistons made to order from CP Carrillo forged alloy that cost me 50% of what a new set of original old stock AM pistons would have cost. Same story for the rear brake rotors which I had engineered using Wilwood racing hardware and set me back less than 30% of what a pair of OEM items cost.
@holgerlubotzki3469 I see why you know all this, great info. many thanks.. The car sat around waiting to be finished but the owner was quite old and sold it on. Then the next owner started turning it into a race car but he also had health problems and it sat outside for years. Until Anders bought it from him a few years back. By then it wasn't a simple rebuild and Anders didn't have the time or possibly the cash to restore it. So I bought it.
Worst case scenario put an LS in it , i owned a series 1 Daimler Soverign and it had a 350 chev and it drove like magic , reliable and cheaper to run than the original motor
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
Great reaction to the engine starting. Sounds like the start of an adventure :P
Yeah, it was pretty important to the project.. Thanks for watching.
Sounds amazing
@andirobertson5955👍
Well done one getthe engine started. Now the hard work begins. 😊
Too true, every time we look at it, something else falls off.. Thanks for watching..
Well done to you both for taking this project on - I think it is important that these sort of beautiful cars are saved for future generations to enjoy. I like your light hearted and positive attitude to the project - it’s easy to get overwhelmed by these things. Keep going and sharing your progress with us, please.
That is so kind. Thank you. It's great to hear a like minded soul. We will keep going. These were so rusty that many were sadly scrapped.
We’re loving this project guys, and looking forward to viewing more. Good luck
Thanks for the support.
Great fun!
I'm in the middle of restoring my DBS, and watching your videos is inspirational. Cheers and good luck!
Oh wow. We should share stories. Our email address is on the channel if you want to reach out. Best of luck with yours too..
Amazing that you have found or got together the parts you need to repair the frame . Good luck - I watch you in a state of high anxiety !!
Love it, I often feel that way too.. Thanks for watching..
She sounds good! My cousin and I had an identical one, 1972 petrol injection auto, Chrysler torqueflite (also fitted to a Matbro forklift truck, use that for spares route if you need any) There is a swirl tank in the boot which collects debris and water, beware of it when you get the fuel system sorted. advice from AM was to treat 7 gallons as the bottom of the tank, and expect it to misfire with any less! I had to do the head gaskets on it, scary stuff, but all the knowledge you need is in the owners handbook, including the timing procedure, complex. but doable! I was glad to hear it run again I can tell you.
Good luck with it, I shall be watching!
Phil
That's great to know and thanks for watching. If you know where to get any other parts, then please let us know. Brake discs were missing.. and it requires a few other parts.
@@AstonTorslanda google brings them up at £600 apiece!! Shop around!!
Cheers..
Epic, keep the vids coming boys! 👍
Cheers Ryan.. thanks for watching...
superb to hear, superb noise and feeling, I really know how good you feel, nice you switched off immediately before any pressures built up or even a backfire might have occurred killing the injection system. Very Happy for you 🥰
It was a great moment. And thanks for the kind words of support.
How exciting
Cheers, we think so...
Fantastic!!
Thanks Ian..
well done lads
Thank you..
Oh, the moment when an apparently dead engine comes back to life! There's nothing like it. Well done, chaps.
It was a worrying....
I live near near Goodwood where they service and repair Spitfires. They do pleasure flights too in the two seaters. I always look out for them when you can hear they are flying.
@kevinseven6633 I was very lucky to fly a two seater HF Mk9 back in 2003 when my pilots license was still valid. It was a dream come true. And because I was recommended for it, I flew it from wheels up for 40 minutes. No aerobatics and no landing, the owner did all of that. Fuel costs were high then, can't imagine the cost now.
Great work, cool car
Thanks, great name..
Keep the original engine as it's a rare beast. Also it may actually need 'running in' if it has only done 7 miles since a rebuild.
Great advice. We will keep it and run it in for sure. We plan to remove the ancillaries such as the water pump, the sump to check the bearings etc and will remove the rocker/cam covers to check the cams, and valves seals. I trust the people who rebuilt it, even though it's 34 years ago. I spoke to Bo Ridstrom of Bo Risdstrom Racing in Sweden just before Christmas and he confirm the build from the receipts we have. Bo is still working, he didn't remember the actual car, but he was the goto guy for Aston Vantage upgrades in Sweden in the 90's.
Have to say the positive wire touching the exhaust manifold was pushing your luck a bit !
oops, didn't see that..
Aren’t you worried that the steel frame is so rusted that you will need to replace it all in effect?
You're not far off the mark there. The front is almost perfect bar requiring a patch here and there. The tunnel and inner frame is still solid and the horizontal structures to the sills are good. Behind the rear seats is solid, so we have reference points. The bad news, it needs new sills, all floors, door checks, complete boot and rear chassis legs, parcel shelf, fuel filler surrounds, rear suspension mounts for the trailing/radius arms, door frames and rear door closer panels. I have all of them now and we start welding soon. Thanks for watching..
The music's not bad, it's just better without it. Good going so far.
Yeah, we'll run some without and see..
Guys. Oil Pressure! It did not move! Arrrggh!
Hi! Dont worry! The gauge was broken, we confirmed oil pressure from an oil line on the top of the engine. We are somewhat new to the video making stuff so we forgot to include it :)
@@AstonTorslanda The AM V8 engines are febrile and oil pressure is everything. If you did not get relief valve pressure of 80 psi at cold start then don't run the engine.
Ask me how I know.
@@holgerlubotzki3469 good call. The engine's coming out this weekend. Thanks for the input, we really would love any information we can get. Every car is different. Although I've rebuilt MG's, many UK cars, a few BMW's including a BMW E9, an early '71 Merc 350SL, and assorted engines, USA V8's included, I've never had an Aston V8. Love to hear everyones input.
@@AstonTorslanda The early AM V8 engines are unlike any other engine when it comes to bottom end tolerances. So are the 6 cylinder engines and there are horror stories out there about owners who took their DB6 engines to people who were experts with the Jaguar DOHC motors. If the engine you have was properly rebuilt by a reputable auto engineer then don't touch anything. Don't even be tempted to remove a big end cap to check a bearing clearance.
I may have missed it in the video, but why was the car laid up only 7 miles after a rebuild?
If you are taking the engine out I can tell you that you can leave the exhaust headers on if you disconnect the steering linkage at the steering rack so that it just flops around. It's a lot quicker and lot easier than removing the exhaust headers with the engine in the car. Also, removing the engine and gearbox gets a lot easier if you have a car hoist and can hoist the back end of the car and adjust the height to get the angle set to sling the motor forward.
Once you have the engine out it's worth having the engine mounts and diff cradle checked for cracks in the corners. The early diff mounts are notorious for breaking at the front end mounting point - the welded plate separates from the cradle and then the front drops down and the tail shaft bottoms out in the nacelle in the chassis. The racket and vibration at 70 mph is terrifying when that happens! Even if there are no cracks it's worth having them all reinforced anyway.
I'm in the final stages of a full restomod on my 1971 DBSV8. My car is only just back from bare metal respray and full interior trim. I've converted to a Tremec T-56 Magnum 6 speed gearbox and an 11 inch ACE racing clutch. I converted to fully sequential EFI before I started the current rebuild. I keep meaning to put some video on my channel but stuff keeps getting in the way.
The other thing you will find out is that parts for these cars are insanely expensive, assuming that they are still available (a lot of stuff isn't!) I had a set of new pistons made to order from CP Carrillo forged alloy that cost me 50% of what a new set of original old stock AM pistons would have cost. Same story for the rear brake rotors which I had engineered using Wilwood racing hardware and set me back less than 30% of what a pair of OEM items cost.
@holgerlubotzki3469 I see why you know all this, great info. many thanks.. The car sat around waiting to be finished but the owner was quite old and sold it on. Then the next owner started turning it into a race car but he also had health problems and it sat outside for years. Until Anders bought it from him a few years back. By then it wasn't a simple rebuild and Anders didn't have the time or possibly the cash to restore it. So I bought it.
lucky it didnt stick on full throttle !
We did free up the throttle linkages and had an ignition cut-off switch rigged up but your right, you never know. That would have been a disaster..
By the way its 30 c in AUS
Is that 30 Cubic Inches or 30 degrees C? Or do you think that car is only worth 30 cents?? 🙂
It was 43 degC in the west yesterday.
It's 15 here..
Worst case scenario put an LS in it , i owned a series 1 Daimler Soverign and it had a 350 chev and it drove like magic , reliable and cheaper to run than the original motor
We have a boat with a 350Mag MPI, very smooth and reliable.. cheers for watching..
Worst case scenario put an LS in it
The engine is the best bit we reckon.... will keep it in mind though if it turns out bad..
LS = losers scenario.
@Mercmad lol... LS isn't a bad engine but it's not going near this car..