I’m just gonna drive that hub in the bearing like you did. If the bearing goes bad sooner, ah well I’ll do it right next time lol. I just replaced the whole suspension all the way around and I’m not letting a bad bearing ruin my week 😇 Great video man, thanks!
Ahhhaha mke sure u put ur rotor on first.. I have the same hollow noise from the rear left side. Was gonna tackle it myself but after watching ur little mission I think Imma hit the shop. Thanx for the vid 👍
I put mine in the freezer for a day it still did not want to go in and I damaged it by forcing it in there. I saw a blog on the GTO forum guy made it sound like it popped right in either he fought it or got lucky. This is one job I dont think there is a shortcut for especially now that spindles are impossible to find its better off to remove the control arm and have a shop press it in and out
So fun fact that I'm only discovering for myself right now because I have to do the wheel bearings on my GTO. That kit you used to extract the bearing out, is also the installer tool. You use it basically backwards to how you did to reinstall the bearing.
@@L2theWcarscoffeelife The one you had to press the bearing out of the assembly doubles as a press. The sleeve is used to press it out, then you just take one of the caps and reverse the process without the sleeve. I'm pretty sure its actually a FWD Bearing removal/install kit (if you use the one from harbor freight) I was looking up how to use the tool kit cause I basically just tried to find a like copy to what you used in this video and was getting a bunch of FWD vehicles, but the process is the same. ( www.harborfreight.com/front-wheel-drive-bearing-remover-and-installer-kit-21-pc-63728.html is the tool kit I think you used?) If you want to wait to do yours I'll fill in some of the gaps with some pictures and a video if it works out the way I think it does, might save some headache, but I think you still have to freeze the spindle and the bearing so it would still be a couple day process, I'm hoping to attempt it this weekend or sometime next week if I have to wait.
th-cam.com/video/aCK1k8RVrn0/w-d-xo.html this is the video that I gathered it from, the guy is all over the place, but he shows how he had it set up in order for it to work, slightly different kit, but basically the same thing.
@@L2theWcarscoffeelife i have the fwd bearing tool coming to me should be here by next week, if it works like i think it does should be a good alternate method to having to get dealer specific tools, ill keep you posted
@@L2theWcarscoffeelife imgur.com/a/RcAqqnu Unfortunately I couldnt get a video to record but this is how I got the new bearing in place, I havent yet got my Stub back in due to some things coming up, heres a few pictures of how to get the bearing to slide back in.
Ive done wheels bearings before on other cars, sooo annoying. What was the sound like before you took it apart? My gto sounds like a bicycle with a plastic bottle trapped between the frame and the wheel. Dont know if you ever did that as a kid, but it sounds almost exactly like it. I thought I had something trapped on the plastic wheelwell covers touching the wheels.
@@L2theWcarscoffeelife I have a feeling it is the bearings. Maybe this weekend I'll lift the rear and spin the tire to see if I can hear the sound your bearing made in the video.
Well done on this video brother - there’s not many videos around for rear bearing replacement on these models GTO/Monaro/VT-VZ Holden Commodore (Australia). I’ve changed out hundreds of these using an impact driver and the bearing puller/installation set you have. My only suggestions for others are if u don’t have access to a bench or suitable workshop press, an absolute must is to change ur rear bearings out on or before 85-100,000 kms or miles equivalent, as once they reach 180,000 to 200,000 kms or miles equivalent, they are extremely hard to remove without a heat torch, a great deal of effort with a slide puller bolted to the hub lug nuts, and the spindle/s inner thread WILL be damaged because if the above fails, u have to use a sledge hammer and smash it out from the inner axle side. They just won’t budge otherwise - too much road heat and high kms seize them up in there! There are ways to salvage and re-use ur hub spindles if ur take heaps of time & are strategic: 1. Once the hub spindle is ready to be removed, reach behind the hub/lug nut assembly on the hand brake side of the hub and remove the large bearing retaining circlip, before bolting on ur slide puller to the hub lug nuts. Slide hammer the shit out of it until the spindle begins to come out of the bearing housing along with the outer half of the inner bearing race. U will start to see the bearing rollers, cages and bearing dust cover come with it. If by now u have forgot to remove the circlip, u will have bent it and it will be bulging out and even harder to remove now! But if u have, this is when u can use a screwdriver or seal puller tool to completely gut the outer bearing, break the roller cages, pull out the dust seal etc and watch them all drop like marbles on the ground! Then without much more effort, u can usually slide hammer the spindle/hub assembly all the way out, saving having to hit the rear thread. If u do have to convince it more with a heavy hammer, USE A COPPER OR BRASS OR WOOD DRIFT in between ur hammer strike surface. Good luck!! Same said with extracting the old outer bearing races left still in the housing. Takes a large puller and a 32mm 1” drive socket with a leverage bar and a lot of muscle to press out.
@@Gasoline___Alley doing it on the vehicle is actually easier than removing the swing arm from the rear k-frame. Freeze the new bearing overnight to shrink it slightly, then re-use the threaded bar, cup and washer tool set, used to remove it, in the reverse order (press on rather than off). For the hub/spindle, the trick is sanding the spindle surfaces with emery paper or cloth, fine sand paper (2000 or more) ensuring there’s no surface rust or imperfections as this will slide into the inner bearing race. Lube the spindle with WD40, and once the new bearing has warmed up (not frozen temps from the feeezer), it normally goes in fine (tap with a mallet) until the threaded end can be pressed through using the inner retainer nut and an impact gun. Is that what u meant?
@@L2theWcarscoffeelife was the bearing still cold/frozen/shrunken? If the hub/spindle is frozen but the bearing is back to ambient temperature, it should slide in no worries
@@L2theWcarscoffeelife yeah..luckily the inner race didn't come out when you were knocking the spindle in the bearing...depending on the bearing tool you have you can usually use that to press the spindle in the bearing while supporting the inner race.
Yeah I’m having that “noise” in the back of my 04 GTO. The passenger side. I need to do this. Thanks for explaining in depth how to actually do it. I will more than likely take the whole assembly off and have a machine shop pull/press the bearings because I’ll already be laying outside on the ground working on it lol. No garage
Yeah. See I’m still not 100% sure if it’s the wheel bearing or the rear diff making the noise. The only reason I’m leaning towards it being the bearing is because the sound is more pronounced on that passenger side. But it like echos and travels through the whole car. The weird thing is is when I lift the rear wheels off the ground and run the car and let the motor spin the wheels the noise disappears. So it’s only making the noise under load. Hence why I’m leaning towards the wheel bearing. Also my rear diff was replaced a few years ago with a used one. It could still be making some noise but But yes it seems like a lot of work and then to still have a noise. But you did it a lot of good by replacing that bearing. That one looks beefier than the original one too.
@@L2theWcarscoffeelife the GTO diffs are very picky on fluids, the wrong fluid can wreck your differential, pretty much universally accepted solution is Torco 85W-140 with 2 oz. of Type F friction modifier
G'day mate great concept and thanks for sharing...although could u please let me no what type of bearing kit wit the cups u used, what's it called please as I want to purchase the same one to do both my rear bearings...??? Thankyou
@@L2theWcarscoffeelife Thank's for that mate but I ment the tool kit with the black cups I wanted one of those kit's to do mine with and just wanted to know what brand of puller/press kit it was...i just ordered one that I think is the same as yours fingers crossed I hope it works. I think its the same as yours, cup size from 30mm to 90mm ones so should do the trick to press them out hopefully. Thanks for the reply...cheers Luke
Nope sure didn't 😁 Its ok the bearing didn't work it has to come back out I have the proper factory tools now so there will be a part 2 got caught up building the 91 Z28 the poor GTO just got pushed back a little bit I will get it done
You did a great job. It’s never as easy as they say. Thanks for your service.
Thank you very much
I’m just gonna drive that hub in the bearing like you did. If the bearing goes bad sooner, ah well I’ll do it right next time lol. I just replaced the whole suspension all the way around and I’m not letting a bad bearing ruin my week 😇
Great video man, thanks!
If you have the right bearing press tool you should be able to use that tool to also press the spindle into the bearing without damaging the bearing
About to do this job myself and the only help I've got is this video.
Wish me luck!
How u get the hub in while on the car?
Ahhhaha mke sure u put ur rotor on first.. I have the same hollow noise from the rear left side. Was gonna tackle it myself but after watching ur little mission I think Imma hit the shop. Thanx for the vid 👍
Hardest part is getting hub back in.. any tricks doing it in the car? Besides hammering it… anyone try dry ice?
I put mine in the freezer for a day it still did not want to go in and I damaged it by forcing it in there. I saw a blog on the GTO forum guy made it sound like it popped right in either he fought it or got lucky. This is one job I dont think there is a shortcut for especially now that spindles are impossible to find its better off to remove the control arm and have a shop press it in and out
U could probably freeze the hub/spindle prior… but I’ve never had to do this.
So fun fact that I'm only discovering for myself right now because I have to do the wheel bearings on my GTO. That kit you used to extract the bearing out, is also the installer tool. You use it basically backwards to how you did to reinstall the bearing.
@@L2theWcarscoffeelife The one you had to press the bearing out of the assembly doubles as a press. The sleeve is used to press it out, then you just take one of the caps and reverse the process without the sleeve. I'm pretty sure its actually a FWD Bearing removal/install kit (if you use the one from harbor freight) I was looking up how to use the tool kit cause I basically just tried to find a like copy to what you used in this video and was getting a bunch of FWD vehicles, but the process is the same. ( www.harborfreight.com/front-wheel-drive-bearing-remover-and-installer-kit-21-pc-63728.html is the tool kit I think you used?) If you want to wait to do yours I'll fill in some of the gaps with some pictures and a video if it works out the way I think it does, might save some headache, but I think you still have to freeze the spindle and the bearing so it would still be a couple day process, I'm hoping to attempt it this weekend or sometime next week if I have to wait.
th-cam.com/video/aCK1k8RVrn0/w-d-xo.html this is the video that I gathered it from, the guy is all over the place, but he shows how he had it set up in order for it to work, slightly different kit, but basically the same thing.
@@L2theWcarscoffeelife i have the fwd bearing tool coming to me should be here by next week, if it works like i think it does should be a good alternate method to having to get dealer specific tools, ill keep you posted
@@L2theWcarscoffeelife imgur.com/a/RcAqqnu Unfortunately I couldnt get a video to record but this is how I got the new bearing in place, I havent yet got my Stub back in due to some things coming up, heres a few pictures of how to get the bearing to slide back in.
@@L2theWcarscoffeelife its all good, thats a good find, take another video for us!
Pretty much the identical setup on my 2005 Volkswagen Jetta rear wheel bearing I also own a 2004 GTO the wheel bearings change very very similar
Ive done wheels bearings before on other cars, sooo annoying. What was the sound like before you took it apart? My gto sounds like a bicycle with a plastic bottle trapped between the frame and the wheel. Dont know if you ever did that as a kid, but it sounds almost exactly like it. I thought I had something trapped on the plastic wheelwell covers touching the wheels.
@@L2theWcarscoffeelife I have a feeling it is the bearings. Maybe this weekend I'll lift the rear and spin the tire to see if I can hear the sound your bearing made in the video.
Well done on this video brother - there’s not many videos around for rear bearing replacement on these models GTO/Monaro/VT-VZ Holden Commodore (Australia). I’ve changed out hundreds of these using an impact driver and the bearing puller/installation set you have.
My only suggestions for others are if u don’t have access to a bench or suitable workshop press, an absolute must is to change ur rear bearings out on or before 85-100,000 kms or miles equivalent, as once they reach 180,000 to 200,000 kms or miles equivalent, they are extremely hard to remove without a heat torch, a great deal of effort with a slide puller bolted to the hub lug nuts, and the spindle/s inner thread WILL be damaged because if the above fails, u have to use a sledge hammer and smash it out from the inner axle side. They just won’t budge otherwise - too much road heat and high kms seize them up in there!
There are ways to salvage and re-use ur hub spindles if ur take heaps of time & are strategic:
1. Once the hub spindle is ready to be removed, reach behind the hub/lug nut assembly on the hand brake side of the hub and remove the large bearing retaining circlip, before bolting on ur slide puller to the hub lug nuts. Slide hammer the shit out of it until the spindle begins to come out of the bearing housing along with the outer half of the inner bearing race. U will start to see the bearing rollers, cages and bearing dust cover come with it.
If by now u have forgot to remove the circlip, u will have bent it and it will be bulging out and even harder to remove now!
But if u have, this is when u can use a screwdriver or seal puller tool to completely gut the outer bearing, break the roller cages, pull out the dust seal etc and watch them all drop like marbles on the ground! Then without much more effort, u can usually slide hammer the spindle/hub assembly all the way out, saving having to hit the rear thread.
If u do have to convince it more with a heavy hammer, USE A COPPER OR BRASS OR WOOD DRIFT in between ur hammer strike surface.
Good luck!!
Same said with extracting the old outer bearing races left still in the housing. Takes a large puller and a 32mm 1” drive socket with a leverage bar and a lot of muscle to press out.
Forgot to mention, a nice powerful impact chisel/air hammer helps get the inner bearing race off the spindle shaft, without damaging it.
Hardest part is getting hub back in.. any tricks doing it in the car?
@@Gasoline___Alley doing it on the vehicle is actually easier than removing the swing arm from the rear k-frame. Freeze the new bearing overnight to shrink it slightly, then re-use the threaded bar, cup and washer tool set, used to remove it, in the reverse order (press on rather than off). For the hub/spindle, the trick is sanding the spindle surfaces with emery paper or cloth, fine sand paper (2000 or more) ensuring there’s no surface rust or imperfections as this will slide into the inner bearing race. Lube the spindle with WD40, and once the new bearing has warmed up (not frozen temps from the feeezer), it normally goes in fine (tap with a mallet) until the threaded end can be pressed through using the inner retainer nut and an impact gun. Is that what u meant?
I did that except with a brand new spindle still damaged the bearing
@@L2theWcarscoffeelife was the bearing still cold/frozen/shrunken? If the hub/spindle is frozen but the bearing is back to ambient temperature, it should slide in no worries
Props for making a video on this...i had an 04 gto and was wondering how to replace rear bearings on these cars since its different than most
@@L2theWcarscoffeelife yeah..luckily the inner race didn't come out when you were knocking the spindle in the bearing...depending on the bearing tool you have you can usually use that to press the spindle in the bearing while supporting the inner race.
Yeah I’m having that “noise” in the back of my 04 GTO. The passenger side. I need to do this. Thanks for explaining in depth how to actually do it. I will more than likely take the whole assembly off and have a machine shop pull/press the bearings because I’ll already be laying outside on the ground working on it lol. No garage
Yeah. See I’m still not 100% sure if it’s the wheel bearing or the rear diff making the noise. The only reason I’m leaning towards it being the bearing is because the sound is more pronounced on that passenger side. But it like echos and travels through the whole car. The weird thing is is when I lift the rear wheels off the ground and run the car and let the motor spin the wheels the noise disappears. So it’s only making the noise under load. Hence why I’m leaning towards the wheel bearing. Also my rear diff was replaced a few years ago with a used one. It could still be making some noise but But yes it seems like a lot of work and then to still have a noise. But you did it a lot of good by replacing that bearing. That one looks beefier than the original one too.
Could you confirm that it was the bearing? I recently put a 3.73 in my car and it still makes the noise/vibration so this is my last resort hopefully
You left us hanging! Did it get rid of the noise? Lots of improvising. Well done :)
@@L2theWcarscoffeelife the GTO diffs are very picky on fluids, the wrong fluid can wreck your differential, pretty much universally accepted solution is Torco 85W-140 with 2 oz. of Type F friction modifier
G'day mate great concept and thanks for sharing...although could u please let me no what type of bearing kit wit the cups u used, what's it called please as I want to purchase the same one to do both my rear bearings...??? Thankyou
@@L2theWcarscoffeelife
Thank's for that mate but I ment the tool kit with the black cups I wanted one of those kit's to do mine with and just wanted to know what brand of puller/press kit it was...i just ordered one that I think is the same as yours fingers crossed I hope it works. I think its the same as yours, cup size from 30mm to 90mm ones so should do the trick to press them out hopefully. Thanks for the reply...cheers Luke
Did you put the snap ring back on the bearing behind the hub?
Nope sure didn't 😁 Its ok the bearing didn't work it has to come back out I have the proper factory tools now so there will be a part 2 got caught up building the 91 Z28 the poor GTO just got pushed back a little bit I will get it done
Great video thanks for sharing
To get the hub off put disk on backwards thread nuts on some what and use disk like a slid hammar
I just wanted to ask if this worked so I can do it I’ve been waiting for another was to take the hub out without messing up the thread 🤦🏻♂️
How u get hub back in ?
I like that you're a cyclist
Have to say it... Australian car. It's Newton meters. Not footpounds...
Like n sub yoll
Excellent you doing perfect job great learning 🎉🎉🎉