Airfix 1/24th Spitfire MK IXc Build Part 3: Mighty Merlin!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ก.ค. 2024
- Following on from the prior two videos, I work on the Merlin 63 that powered the Spitfire MkIX, and start to pull the threads together for completing in the next video.
Unboxing: • Super Spitfire - Unbox...
Part 1: Cockpit: • Building the Airfix 1/...
Part 2: Wings & Things: • Airfix 1/24th Super Sp...
Part 3: Mighty Merlin: • Airfix 1/24th Spitfire...
Part 4: Airframe: th-cam.com/video/6wtgwpeoMcU/w-d-xo.html
Part 5: Finishing: • Airfix 1/24th Spitfire...
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Video Chapters
0:00 Introduction
0:37 Engine start
10:30 A quick word
12:18 Back to the Build
16:12 Painting
18:10 Engine mounting
21:32 Weathering
23:03 Summary
23:46 Like, Subscribe & Share
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I'm most impressed by your skill and informed narrative style, refreshingly devoid of the endless irritating clichés found on similar streams. Oh, and thank you for taking the trouble to find out exactly what part of the aircraft you're working on, rather than dismissing it as 'some pipes or something'. I'm subscribed, and will be joining soon!
Thank you very much!
I built the Airfix 1/24th scale P-51D Mustang back in the mid-1970s. I remember building the Merlin on that kit, and it was so much more less detailed and complex as this Merlin. Looking forward the the last part of the build.
I have the 1/24th scale Me-109 too, and it'd be an interesting comparison to make! As you say, the difference is night and day
Great video, reminds me of nice childhood moments with my dad, when he gave me the first kits and assisted me in the build. The Spitfire 1/24 Airfix was the dream model in those days. Maybe I will take up modelling again. Thanks for reviving the memories and inspiring me. Happy new year 🎉
Glad you enjoyed it It's a great hobby :-)
Hi Alex! Really enjoying the channel and your 'grown up' approach, like not saying really makes it pop ever 30 seconds 🙄. Can I just say that the vast majority of metal pipes on an engine are copper rather than brass. Copper is easier to form and flexible in use. Brass is more difficult to work and becomes brittle through 'work hardening' when it flexes. It wouldn't last very long on any engine, fine for castings but rarely used for pipework. Hope you don't mind but it is a mistake i see over and over again on models 😉
Thanks
I built the earlier version of this kit as a boy in the 70's. In that version, you could fit an electric motor in the engine that was wired back to batteries in the stand. Anyone else remember that long ago - happy days..
Not the Spitfire, but I do remember my dad buying me the 1/24th Stuka that Airfix are re-issuing this year one Christmas. We built it together over quite a period of time, it taught me a lot about patience in modelling!
Brand new first here too. Looking good! I haven't built a Spit in years, you've given me food for thought! Regards Terry Lewis.
Welcome aboard!
Hi, I just came across your channel. I am waiting for the Spit to arrive. Hopefully before Christmas. Thank you for your instructions.
Have fun!
Thanks for the video, really well paced and enjoyable.
Sorry to be pedantic, but it's Hataka and not Hakata 😁
Quite true - it's one of those words that although I know that, somehow it still comes out wrong!
Hi! Thanks for the video! Quick question... is the only thing stopping us from temporarily fixing the engine cowling the need to put the exhausts on? Would it be possible to simply remove the exhausts in order to remove the cowling and show the engine and then put the exhausts back on again?
No. There's no need to remove the exhausts. Just as I did in the next part of the series,it's more about how you attach the cowling pieces
Nice kit and build ... Quick question why don't u paint the sub-assemblies beforehand, especially the piping?
Good question - quick answer is, it depends, but in this case there are a couple of reasons - Firstly I don't want to have to clean paint off parts like this with lots of attachment points to fix them (I'm aware some people don't but that's the devil's work for me!). Second, I want to create some visual depth with the airbrush which is possible in sub assemblies, but harder. Thirdly, I do paint in sub assemblirs, but it's at which level you choose to. At the end of the day it's whatever you find best for your process - I'm certainly not saying what is do is the best way! Lastly, if I were not building this OOTB, I'd replace the pipes with polished and coloured wire, and not paint them!
@@MannsModelMoments Thanks for the reply. .. I normally do my engine blocks in a different color... (it's my kit and I can paint it the way I want to .. lol ) ... keep up the good work ..👍
@@nickbroekhuizen8858 Absolutely! Merlin's and Spitfires had a lot of variation in component painting (as did a lot of WWII subjects) so even if a general standard was set, they changed, varied, were interpreted differently (Spits and other aircraft often had distributed production) or even just ignored.
@@MannsModelMoments I am no historian but thinking practically in war times resources are scarce. So a factory could very well use what ever paint was at hand for an engine since it was hidden away. So I don't think paint scheme were ignored but rather adapted to any given day.
@@micnolmadtube Absolutely!
Can i just ask a quick question ...where do you get the pledge from ? Many Thanks ..Shaun.
☺
And the cocktail sticks! Do you realise how hard it is to find a decent off-license hobby shop?
I managed to get some from Amazon, though sadly it's now discontinued your best chances are to find some by chance in a physical store. I'm currently researching a decent replacement
Why do you apply cement to the insid or outside of the seam and not the edge?Am taking up model making again after a 50 year break .
So it depends on the part and the glue. If I'm using Contacta or another "regular" thickness glue) it'll go onto the contacting surfaces (or the edges to be cemented).
If I'm using Tamiya Extra Thin - which is just solvent - then the liquid is drawn into the seam by capillary action, with excess evaporating very rapidly. This allows for a join with minimal excess cement - but it does limit working times and the "depth" of the bond.
I would like to build this model it closed up but with the Merlin engine on display next to it, is that possible or do I have to build it one way or the other?
If you want to permanently close the cowlings and display the engine, next to the kit, it should be possible, though you'll need a few adjustments to mount the exhausts. Luckily as there are two versions in the kit, you can do that. If you're looking to be able to remove and replace the engine, that's a whole project. You'll also need to build some sort of mount for the displayed engine, of course