How to Replace Rear Brakes 2008-13 Mazda 3 S
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ส.ค. 2024
- Shop for New Auto Parts at 1AAuto.com 1aau.to/c/128/4...
Brake pads wear out over time, much like tires, and need replacing, on average, every 50,000 miles, with variations depending on driving habits and environment. Brake rotors may also need to be replaced if they are warped or grooved. Often, it’s safer and more cost effective to replace pads and rotors at the same time. Squealing or grinding noises, or wheel vibration are all symptoms of worn brakes. This video shows you how to install new, quality TRQ brake pads and rotors on your 2008-13 Mazda 3 S.
• Check here for more videos on the 2008-13 Mazda 3: • Mazda 3 2nd Generation...
This process should be similar on the following vehicles:
2010 Mazda 3
2011 Mazda 3
2012 Mazda 3
2013 Mazda 3
Tools you will need:
• Flat Blade Screwdriver 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• Needle nose pliers 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• Needle nose pliers 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• 1/2 Inch Air Impact Gun 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• Socket Driver
• Torque Wrench 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• Brake Grease
• Brake Parts Cleaner
• Copper Anti-Seize
• Liquid Thread Locker
• Paper Towels 1aau.to/oa/1AXS...
• Floor Jack 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• Hammer 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• Jack Stands 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• Wheel Chocks
• Wire Brush 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
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Check out our playlist:
Mazda 3 2nd Generation 2008-13: • Mazda 3 2nd Generation...
⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While TRQ strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. TRQ is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts
√ *Do it Yourself*
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I like how he doesn’t show how hard it is to get the caliber pushed in
decent video but it would help if he told you the size of each socket or torque bit..
You’re a life-saver, thank you!!
7mm Allen for slide
Is there a clippidoo on both sides?
so you have to push and twist??? you just cant push it in?
Pay particular attention before you start how the break lines are positioned. When you start to reassemble he doesn't provide the specificity you need for the one that hangs loose (which may have been moved when you had to get the piston pushed in). This is my third video and everyone seems to leave an important step, tool or warning out. So if you're new to doing breaks, haven't done it in a long time, or haven't done them on your particular vehicle, watch a few videos start to finish, take notes (i.e. supplies), and run through it before beginning the work. Because I repositioned the caliper a few times, the free-floating break line wound up on the wrong side of the other one, and tension is important here, so I have to remove the calipers and break pads I just installed and do it all over again as there is not enough slack to move it now.
Quick question do you have to bleed the caliber or that’s only when you change the caliber ?
Do you have a video on pumping up the brake? Do you have to bleed them?
The calliper on these is screwed to push in, I cut an old socket approximately the right size with just two tabs hanging out
Came here for the bolt size left dissapointed
more good stuff ! But wow, that's a rusty little beast .....
Anyone know the size the the Alan head?
With the exception of removing the tire, everything else is a major pain in the fuckin balls!!!!