How to Replace Rear Brake Caliper 2008-13 Mazda 3
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ก.พ. 2022
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New Brake Caliper from 1AAuto.com 1aau.to/ia/RABCR00138
A worn out or seized brake caliper can create dangerous and expensive problems: overheating, rotor and pad wear, or even total failure. TRQ brake calipers are engineered to fit your specific vehicle. This video shows you how to replace a rear brake caliper on your 2008-13 Mazda 3.
• Check here for more videos on the 2008-13 Mazda 3: • Mazda 3 2nd Generation...
This process should be similar on the following vehicles:
2010 Mazda 3
2011 Mazda 3
2012 Mazda 3
2013 Mazda 3
Tools you will need:
• Flat Blade Screwdriver 1aau.to/orm/1AXAA00013
• Pry Bar 1aau.to/oeW/1AXAA00020
• 14mm Flare Wrench
• 14mm Socket 1aau.to/orq/1AXAA00015
• 21mm Socket 1aau.to/ohG/1AXAA00043
• Brake Caliper Hanger 1aau.to/oan/1AXAA00084
• Metal Cutters
• Ratchet 1aau.to/osL/1AXAA00016
• Socket Driver
• Torque Wrench 1aau.to/okC/1AXAA00044
• Anti-Seize Grease
• Brake Parts Cleaner
• Copper Anti-Seize
• Liquid Thread Locker
• 7mm Allen Wrench 1aau.to/oH/1AXAA00007
• 7mm Hex Socket
• Brass Punch
• Drain Pan 1aau.to/ob3/1AXAA00320
• Floor Jack 1aau.to/ofd/1AXAA00068
• Hammer 1aau.to/oeS/1AXAA00091
• Jack Stands 1aau.to/oeR/1AXAA00065
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Mazda 3 2nd Generation 2008-13: • Mazda 3 2nd Generation...
⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While TRQ strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. TRQ is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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Easy-peasy thanks to your awesomely thorough tutorial. Even the e-brake was a cake walk because of your instruction. Thank you for sharing your expertise!
+RM Mccarthy Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Like others, I had to use a cut off wheel on my hand grinder to cut the E-brake cable out of the caliper. That thing was fossilized into that hole, no penetrating fluid had a chance. Wasn't really that hard to do, just have to be careful not to cut into the cable. Get some deep notches on either side of it and then use a flat had screwdriver or small pry bar into the cuts and break out a couple chunks of the aluminum caliper. When I got about 180 degrees of the caliper cut out (ie. halfway around the cable), I flipped the caliper over and just tapped the back of the cable. Popped right out. Clean it up real good with a file or sandpaper to make it easier getting in the new caliper. Use anti-seize. Mazda doesn't make this car easy to work on, I'll say that. Last one I'll buy, sticking with Hondas and Toyotas from here out.
This video made my weekend possible! I had a break fluid leak in my 3. Needed both calipers and flex hoses. Unfortunately, due to the excessive rust I had to cut the metal line before the flex hose.
I was able to add fittings and flare the lines to connect the flex hoses then use this video to get everything back together. My dad is coming over later to help me bleed the brakes.
Thanks a LOT!
Works for an 06 as well. Used the video as reassurance as I changed mine before seeing this video, but looks like I did well! Thanks!
Best of all of the mazda rear brake videos , by far
I thought this was a very well filmed and informative video. Getting ready to put a new caliper on my sons 3 (old one is sticking and won't release fully) and wanted to get a heads up on the procedure. This was exactly what I was looking for!
If you handbrake cable sleeve was extremely stuck on, don't hammer it! Even with a brass punch I dented and dinged mine to where upon reinstall it wouldn't fit in the ear without sanding. What I would do instead (and did on the second caliper), is simply saw the ear off the caliper, then twist the sleeve out with vise grips, you only need two cuts and it came out very easily after that.
Disappointing, the hand brake part of this job is by far the worst part and both removal ( "...so no one has to go through what I went through.") and install are both just glazed over.
See comment by @nostrilnick for how-to... I replaced both rears of my 2012, and the e-brake cable was 'fossilized' into the caliper of both. Had to buy and use an angle grinder (first time!) to cut out bits around the cable end to get it to pop out, and then some 60 grit sandpaper to get it to fit into the new one.
Would've been nice to have some heads-up from the video about that (added an extra trip to harbor freight), but otherwise excellent video tutorial.
Nice 👍 good job halpfull video
what was the point of taking the rotor and mounting bracket off??
Would the flex hose be easier to remove before removing the caliper?
Thanks!
2010 Mazda speed three, I’m not sure that it works on that car. For mine, the handbrake cable, the hole that it passes through, appears to have a lip so I can’t be forced out of the caliper.
I'm sorry, but how daft of Mazda to not use a banjo bolt!!!
I did everything step by step as in the video, but my new caliper is not compressing. What can be the reason? Please help
What does one do when the ebrake collar wont release from the ear? Better penetrant (than my stupid choice of WD-40)? Heat?
If I changed my brakes to new ones why would my emergency brake not work?
my hand brake cable was so seized i can to cut the old caliper with an angle grinder to get it out
How did you get them back in the mew caliper? I was able to get them out but can’t get them in the new caliper… pls help lol
can i just buy the bracket not the caliper