Welding in a patch for the MOT
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ส.ค. 2024
- Second part in the 3-part Ford Transit Tipper series!
Welding in a simple patch on the rear cab of a Ford Transit tipper truck for the MOT.
Tech:
Bodywork (0.8-1.2mm/18-21gauge) I normally use around 85A with 0.6mm (0.023") wire... creates smaller tacks = less grinding, plus hotter faster tacks = less distortion.
Chassis stuff 2-3mm (14g - 1/8") I use 120-140 with either 0.6mm or 0.8mm (0.030") wire, preferrably the latter.
Hard to nail down a specific number as different style joints and fit up gaps are a deciding factor, I rarely stick to the same power throughout a job, even on the same thickness bodywork, fresh 18gauge I can go up to 110A, but when I'm sticking it to old 0.8mm/21gauge sheet, I can go as low as 65A.
I used higher amps for the inside corner edge joint than the 3 butt welded edges, as that frame rail wall is 2-3 times as thick as the sheet panel I'm filling the hole in, which is 1mm (or less), the patch I made is 1.2mm/18 Gauge.
Better than my bodywork welding
Nice work 👍
Cheers buddy, thanks for watching.
Brilliant video thank u 👀❤️👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you!
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Thank you for watching.
Thinking about going mobile but unsure on how much to charge, what would be the going rate for a repair like this?
I start at £35/hr absolute minimum (probably go up soon), but depends on the job size, complexity, conditions, access, time-frame, whether it requires MIG/TIG/Stick/Plasma, customers attitude.
Sometimes I stick to a fixed quote, but I try to avoid that, cause especially with these kind of jobs, you never know what's hidden by mud, old paint and underseal... often, it's far worse than how it appears at first once you've taken the wire wheel on an angle grinder to remove the loose rust and paint.
Good luck!
I think £35 for this repair is too cheap.
I,d pay £80-£100 for that repair.
What power & wire speed?
I've updated the description to include this in some detail.
Thank you for the comment.
Don't you ever paint inside box sections with bonda primer before closing them up
I do, but...
This side has the hole for the exhaust (and was surprisingly clean), so paint could be added after the fact, but given the state of the entire vehicle and how long it'll last before it gets scrapped, it's just not worth bothering, lets face it, it's just to get it through the MOT and anywhere that gets welded will burn off the paint, and this fresh metal and the weld will far outlast the surrounding material, it's no show car after all, and the timescale and budget reflect that, I already went the extra mile and flush patched and fully welded it, as opposed to just laying a patch over the top, leaving space for mud and moisture to collect between a patch and the surround of the old hole.