MOT Welding Repairs on a Ford Transit Tipper Tail
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ส.ค. 2024
- First part in the 3-part Ford Transit Tipper series!
A few welding repairs on the rear end of a Ford Transit tipper so it can pass the MOT retest.
Not necessarily the best way to do it but there's a limited time scale and budget (as per usual!) and it'll be more than acceptable to pass the MOT.
I presume the left frame rail was cracked on the inside and underneath from some kind of towing incident.
Bodywork (0.8-1.2mm/18-21gauge) I normally use around 85A with 0.6mm (0.023") wire... creates smaller tacks = less grinding, plus hotter faster tacks = less distortion.
Chassis stuff 2-3mm (14g - 1/8") I use 120-140 with either 0.6mm or 0.8mm (0.030") wire, preferrably the latter.
Hard to nail down a specific number as different style joints and fit up gaps are a deciding factor, I rarely stick to the same power throughout a job, even on the same thickness bodywork, fresh 18gauge I can go up to 110A, but when I'm sticking it to old 0.8mm/21gauge sheet, I can go as low as 65A.
I used higher amps for the inside corner edge joint than the 3 butt welded edges, as that frame rail wall is 2-3 times as thick as the sheet panel I'm filling the hole in, which is 1mm (or less), the patch I made is 1.2mm/18 Gauge.
Nice workmanship you can tell you have great pride in your work. 👌
Thank you, I try. Thanks for watching.
Some very nice work there. Anyone thinking this is easy think again. Its about the hardest fabrication work there is.
Thank you, and you may be right there, especially mobile without a kitted out heated workhop.
@@jwweldfab That's when working hard and keeping busy keeps you warm. Having something to rest on and stop the chill coming up from the ground is important.
Yes, it was snowing at one point doing this transit, and I was fine... had 2 pairs of socks on, 2 pairs of trousers, 2 t-shirts, and a padded shirt under my hoodie, sometimes I was sweating, especially when welding!... My hands suffered a bit with the cold when I had to take off my gloves to fiddle with the camera, otherwise I was mostly fine.
I also use a couple of those puzzle foam floor mats to kneel, sit and lie on.
Cheers.
I’m sure you fill holes with expanding foam & filler on these transits!
This is the best Fab work I’ve seen on a transit 👍
Haha, they seem to be mostly done like that!
Thank you.
Nice narrowboat project, dad was thinking about getting one to live on but think he's given up, would love to do some work on something like that.
Fair play mate silk purse sows ear. Lovely work and outside can only imagine what you could do with if you had a Fab Rat shop or Vice Grip set up. All the best from Shropshire mate.
Cheers buddy, I'd love to be able to get a workshop and yard out in the sticks.
Thanks for watching.
Love it
Thank you.
Some nice repair work there, shame you weren't my local welder, i took my car to a well respected welder/painter a few years back for some inner arch/sill work, nothing serious just a few smallish plates, it was fairly expensive but i was happy to get a proper job done, last year it looked as though some surface rust was coming through so i ground it back ready to treat it and found that the a hole had riveted the plates on, i wasn't happy, if anyone asks for a welder i definitely won't be recommending him!
Wow, sorry to hear that, it's shocking what some people get away with and how they can even sleep at night!
Some people have no pride in what they do, I know this is a transit, but I still try and do my best.
Thank you for the comment.
Nice job mate 👍👍
Thanks 👍
I do the same work - not mobile - and I've found with the latest versions of flux-core machines I can run beads no problem on chassis thickness steel. Don't have to stitch weld them. I've now switched everything to flux core, have a machine landing next week that I reckon will be as close to the perfect sheet-steel welder as you can get just due to the parameters you can dial in on it.
I could bore you with a waaay faster method of getting absolutely perfect fitment on chassis repair plates regardless of the shape, every time, effortlessly, but you'd probably tell me to go do one, :-)
I use a plasma for almost everything too - loads dislike them, I love them. They get in where little else will cut. Brilliant machines.
Same, I couldn't do without my Lidl's £150 plasma cutter with the built-in compressor, it's lasted a couple years now and cuts 12mm steel on 13amps!... closest thing I'd seen before was from Lincoln electric and it's 2.5k!
@@jwweldfab I use that same Lidl machine. :-)
Can't beat it really!
Only problems I've had is the pipe blowing out the top of the 'tyre-inflator' pump, which I bodged back in mid-job, and then fixed properly more recently when it popped out for good, by changing the fitting to a UK standard thread, and it increasingly intermittently doesn't want to fire when the consumables start to wear too much, but they're cheap as chips for big packs from eBay or Static Arc... pop in new bits and it's like new again!
@@jwweldfab Best "Hack" on the Lidl plasma is - btw - to get you some 2mm core wire - any old stuff that uses the slightly heavier core-strands. Strip an inch each end, make a loop one end & put it over the torch-tip so its connected, wind it tight, then pull the loop back tight to the torch body, wrap it around the torch a few times so it stays put - you want about 6 or 8 foot of wire ideally.
Connect the other stripped end to the earth-clamp - I just stick it between the workpiece & the earth-clamp jaw. Bang - Pilot Arc on your 150 quid plasma cutter. :-) Transforms the machine at zero cost & works like a bast***. :-)
Thank me later. :-)
Brilliant video thank u 👀❤️👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you!
Nice job
Thank you!
I remember getting a waste removal company in on a job and had a old transit tipper they were loading it up and then bang chassis snapped in half the tipper bed went into cab and that snapped off its mounts and all this happened in a high street
Yikes! That would have made a great video, lol.
@@jwweldfab funniest part of it was even with the van snapped in half a traffic warden still given him a parking ticket because maximum stay ran out
Just when you thought it couldn't get any worse...
These transits really are poo boxes 🤣 great work 👍
Yup! Glad you appreciate the effort. Thanks for watching.
top job
Thank you.
Why are transits the most popular yet worst chassis in the world
Haha.
Thank you for watching.
Interesting video. Got to love a rusty Transit. What make / model is the plasma cutter that you are using? makes a nice clean cut. Assume it has an inbuilt compressor.
It's a Parkside PPSK 40 A1 from Lidl's! Yes it has the built in compressor, so perfect for mobile work, not having to lug around my petrol or electric compressor, but I do also have their normal 30A plasma cutter too, which also works well, with new torch consumables, you can get an almost dross free cut, although the dross knocks off quite easily with a sharpish chisel, much quicker than grinding, sometimes a wire wheel on the grinder knocks most of it off too. Dross kills sanding pads and flap wheels cause its so harsh.
Only 2 problems I've had it water freezing (it must have been below 0 degrees C) in the air outlet that the torch hose pugs into at the front of the machine, but just pulled that plug, hit the trigger switch and it blew out the front to clear it, then plugged the torch hose back in and it was fine the rest of the day.
Second problem was the outlet hose in the top of the compressor inside the unit blew out mid job, but after taking the case off, managed to jam it back in and it's been fine for the last few months since.
Maybe I'll do a review if I get enough interest, as all the one's on TH-cam seem to be hobbyists that have never used one before and they get pretty naff cuts cause they haven't had enough practice.
as a hobby welder that works on his own vehicles and help family and friends with welding repairs. any reason as to why you stitch welded. and didnt do it in 1 bead.and grind down to a smooth finish with a zerc wheel ? also i wouldve use waxoyl on inside of that chassis rail 1st. but still great to see it done right escpecially on a transit., they need all the help they can get lol,. have 2 myself and they know many people with them and all suffer with serious case of tin worm
Hi,
I did do some continuous beads where fit up allowed, and where the two parts being welded are both fresh pieces of steel, but I generally have the heat well up and joining a bunch of tacks is just the way I prefer to do it when welding fresh steel to old somewhat rusty steel where you have no idea how thick it really is.
Also it's less hassle to have more loose of a fit up and any gaps are easy to fill that way, doing a continuous bead would just blow through, it saves me a fair bit of time not having to fiddle with the settings hardly at all, as when I'm in awkward positions, it can be a right ball-ache (and knee-ache) shifting around to get to the controls.
Another reason is it allows moisture, old paint & seam sealer that's impossible to remove a second or 3 to cook out cause I'm going slower & hotter, so less porosity and fire.
Slow and steady wins the race when you're trying to avoid setting things on fire!
Unfortunately this ain't no show winning classic...
I did grind down a fair bit of it, but depends on time (which normally always takes longer), budget, and how ugly it comes out, oh, and what grinding/sanding/flap discs I have left, haha.
Try ceramic if you can find them (R H Davey in Southampton do them for a good price, & they deliver!), they last a fair bit longer, and I highly recommend 3M cubitron 2, despite how horrifically expensive they are.
I do have Waxoyl onboard, and use it often, but that beam is now sealed, and the less that burns and dribbles out of weld joints into the weld pool whilst welding them, the better. Plus other, more serious parts of the frame are going to need scrapping way before that starts to rot.
Hope this helps.
Thank you for the comment.
Nice job, does your plasma have high frequency start (HF), if so have you ever had any issues with it affecting ECUs? How much does this kinda if job cost nowadays? Lot of work.
Thank you.
Not sure actually, but I think it does as it killed an LED work light when I forgot to connect the ground!... never had any issues with ECU's, whether the ground is connected or not, and whether the battery is connected or not, but the customer normally disconnects for me. I'd worry more about something new, but then new stuff doesn't need rot removal... yet!
I charged £1,200 for all the work in the 3 videos. I'm aware garages would likely have charged at least twice that or more.
Feel free to share any experiences as a customer and charges (per hour and overall) for similar work to what I've done in these 3 videos, be a helpful bit of education in helping set more accurate charges and whether I should be charging more.
Cheers for watching.
That was surgery,nice job.
Haha, thank you.
I would have pre made it all then lifted the box,cut out the rusted metal and installed new pieces instead of wasting time with junk.
With a higher budget and more time, that's what I'd rather have done. This is just to get through an MOT, it's no restoration.
great work but I dont think this will be the last time you see the under side of that ford it looks worse than a landrover lol
Cheers, I know you're right! lol.