Good call on the star pattern for tightening. For those new to torque wrenches, it’s best to torque the lugs in 3 stages, with 129 ft-lbs not being done until last. Be sure to re-torque the wheels after 50 miles or so. Finally, it’s good practice to store your wrench at 0 ft-lbs.
Just a word of caution on re-torquing after 50 miles… Remember you’re trying to overcome 129 ft-lbs at the start and that could potentially lead to uneven torquing as you try to overcome the friction between nut & lug.
No, you should never go lower than the minimum torque setting for the wrench. Fully loosening the mechanism will affect the calibration. Store the wrench at its lowest setting, no lower.
Thanks you Erik your very good to explain all your projects. I am from Québec in Canada and learn english with your explanations. You speak lourd and very cleary all the word you say. I have à Tesla model 3 long range black with the internal white 2019 at 30,000km. I love my car and I will never buy a gaz car anymore. Thanks again and watting your next vidéo. Sorry if I maid some spelling, I speak french and and a bit english.
There are a few things I think I should mention about tires. There are two types of tire setups on cars: Square = all 4 tires/wheels are the same size, and Staggerd = the front 2 tires are a different size than the rear 2 tires (usually thinner tires on the front, fatter tires on the back). This video talks about a square setup. If you have staggered wheels/tires, then you may be able to lift both sides of the car and rotate the tires from the driver's side to the passenger side on both front and rear tires. However, regardless if you have a square or staggered setup, you need to look at your tires to see if they have a directional tread. Tire manufacturers usually have an arrow on the sidewall of the tire to show which direction the tire should be facing if there is a directional tread pattern. The factory tires on my Tesla are non-directional (no arrow on the sidewall), so I can move them anywhere on the car with no problems. If you have a square setup with directional tires, you can only rotate them from front to back. If you have a staggered setup with directional tires, you can not rotate your tires at all. You will have to buy new tires when the tread gets low. If you want me to make a part 2 that explains this in more detail, let me know with a thumbs up.
Hi... Glad to hear that those tyres are going to get replaced. (soon is too far away) They are well worse than "insurance spec" - (just the 2 we saw) - lol... Getting to grips with your own vehicle is the best safety enhancer - "Smooth" tyres are illegal, also very slippery in the wet, and more likely to incur punctures due to the reduced rubber (land) thickness.. Indeed, Alignment needed, and lower rear pressure... (Why would one take a car to tesla to get tyres sorted, a local tyre installer is usually more convenient and better at doing this task). Re. "Staggered tyres" (directional) - or "Square" config. with Directional tyres ... If one wants to swap the tyres side to side to improve wear / utilisation - keeping rotational direction correct -, it should be noted that flipping the tyre on the rim (best done by a tyre shop, unless you are an extraordinarily well equipped owner) maintains correct direction.. Even with non directional tyres, IF the outer edge is getting hammered by driving style, frequency of roundabouts, or choice of alignment; a rim flip (or tyre flip if you prefer) changes the outer edge of the tyre. Whether or not you will ever get "value" in doing this, well that depends on motivation. - you may keep your tyre carcase out of third world landfill (or children's playground) for a little longer. cheers.
You're right about that. I live life on the edge...lol...so by "eventually" I mean within the next couple of weeks. Not immediately like tomorrow. I should be fine, and in the mean time, I can pack my spare tire kit (I made a video about it) in my trunk to take with me until I can get new tires. I want to spend some time researching which tires to get and where to get them from.
Great video, as always, Erik. I am close to the 10,000 km mentioned, but I think I will do the rotation later: I'll watch your video again then. I have a question ... How did you remove the aerowheels from the screen? :O
You don't. Tire and wheel balance is usually done when you put a new tire on the wheel, so I'll let the tire shop do that when I buy new tires. Tire rotation is completely different. Tire rotation helps even out the tread so it doesn't wear uneven in spots. It saves the lifespan of the tire.
Shouldn't put all the vehicle weight on the tire went torquing the lugs. Just put enough weight on the tires so it won't spin when on the ground and wheel can move in towards the rotor and properly tighten.
Of *course* tesla doesn't bother having center jack point so you can get stands under the car without issue. And obviously they need to have the world's smallest lift points so you need an adapter to use your jack and have no means of fitting a jack stand in with the jack on the same corner. And just for fun make the adapter different from the model S and model 3 because you can.
Late to comment here but I will mention an important point for everyone to read. The first time you take your brand new car to a shop and you watch the idiot set his impact wrench to the maximum torque setting. Then you see him take the first lug nut and fully tighten it down ALL THE WAY! He doesn't bother to hand tighten the lug nuts first and make sure that the wheel is properly aligned. Then he precedes to put all the other lug nuts down at 200 plus foot pounds bending the heck out of your rim, studs, and even possibly warping your brake rotors. I have not seen a single mechanic properly center the rim on the studs in over 30 years! Here is the proper way to do it! 1. Put Tire onto the studs. 2. Hand tighten all lug nuts until they stop. 3. With the palms of your hands. Start banging on the side walls of the tire all around in a circle many times. This vibration helps to center the rim on the studs perfectly. 4. Continue alternating between banging on the side walls with your palms of your hands all around in a circle and hand tightening the lug nuts until they will no longer go down anymore. 5. Then, and ONLY then, do you snug them up more and lower the tire to touch the ground. 6. Proceed with tightening the lug nuts in a star pattern. You want to start at roughly 30 foot pounds first. Do two or three intervals working up to the manufacturer's recommended torque spec. THAT is how you properly center a rim on the studs and tighten it down without messing anything up!
One thing to mention to your viewers should be to be aware of what type of tires you have on the car, are they directional or non-directional? Directional tires are only rotated front to back, back to front and stay on the same side of the car. Non-directional should be rotated both fronts to back same side and both rears to front in an X pattern.
That's great advice. I know I have mentioned directional tires in other videos, but for some reason left it out here. Probably because most factory tires on Teslas are non-directional, so I forgot to mention that. Thanks for pointing that out! Very important!
THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU! Great video. Just wanted to make sure I don't screw up my first tire rotation on my 2023 Model Y. Now I'm going to to out and do this myself instead of going to my nearby tire store. I've got an air wrench, the jack pads, and the correct socket, so I should be good to go.
Same! I'm at 6,244 on my 2023 Model Y LR, and I'm gonna do it myself. Got a little worried when I saw he had 2 jacks... As I only have one low profile jack, but the rigidity of our vehicles is amazing! I'm gonna use a jack stand as well with a 2nd Puck. Haven't used my torque wrench in a while... Hope it's still calibrated properly.
@@jamespeterson7100 I'm going to try out the Michelin Pilot Sport All Season 4. They're still an all-season tire but has a lot more performance than the stock tires. They got great reviews online, so I'll give them a try. I ordered them from TireRack.
Great video. With a similar setup how long can you keep the car jacked? Thinking of painting calipers which could take 2 - 4 hours with wheels removed on one side.
Thank you Erik for posting this , i you are right about the rotation schedule , is not that many miles for rotation and it can get costly to have Tesla or another shop do the rotation not to mention the time.
Thank you for your video. Your descriptions and video work was great and I feel a lot better about doing my own tire rotations now. I didn't know about that jack stand adapters, so that is something I will look into now. Thanks again!
$50 for tire rotation is typical. Some are free at some places. Don’t pay $500. Watch my video and learn how to do it free the rest of your life. Don’t get taken advantage of!
Buy a 2x6 wood plank at hardware store. Cut with saw and make two mini ramps. Drive wheels into mini ramps for more clearance under vehicle. Proceed with maintenance. 😉
You best should define your flavor of Tesla as some have bigger tires on the back plus you did not mention the automatic self leveling system that needs to be safed on some.
Hi, thanks, I had not realised how stiff the car is. Eye opening. Pity that there is not a central jack point under the sill. You could use two jacks I guess for added security but never, ever, get any part of your body under a car only held up by hydraulic jacks. You are relying on the jack valve not failing. The old style screw jacks are safer in that respect. For real peace of mind you can now get a combined hydraulic jack and pin lockable axle stand - just search for 'axle jack stand'. About £90 over here, just over $100 US. Two of those would make this job even easier - and even that much safer. The only downside of tyre rotation is that on an AWD they will all need replacing at the same time. That's around £1,000 here and I guess around $1,000 US.
hi, thank you for this video. i'm trying to order through the amazon links but have a q. for the torque wrench, there is 10-150 lbs vs. 25-250lbs. if Tesla wants it at 129, is it okay to buy the 10-150 lb wrench? its significantly cheaper.
These are the set of tires you don’t rotate. Instead, must be replaced right away because they’re so freaking worn out that they’ve become extremely dangerous!
Thank you for this. I used 2 pucks and added a jack stand then made sure both jack stand and my carjack are evening the load. Also, 16:00 required my full body weight and a few push to get mine to click. 😅 I recalibrated to 100 ft-lb and incremented 10 ft-lb then 9 ft-lb to see if it was working properly and it did. Its just my post-covid strength struggled around ~125 ft-lb.
Nice video, does Tesla say anything about direction of rotation? My old Pontiac recommended a cross rotation. Drop front tires straight back and cross cross the rears forward.
If you have a RWD car, you can do the cross swap, and if you have an AWD car you can do a front to back swap. I can't remember if I read that in a Tesla document or a forum, but that's what I'm going with.
Nice to see you have a Tesla, Richie Boogeyman Martinez. :) It's funny that you have a tesla but you are saving pennies. I appreciate it though. I might use your information. Hope you look up Boogeyman, I thought that was funny.
I can't believe that you actually used those tires after noticing how bald they were! All those tires should have been replaced at least 5,000 miles ago! And worse, you actually rotated the balder tire to the front? Your in for a world of hurt if\when they blow out.
Mine is a Pittsburgh low profile jack. If you want to find one locally, they sell them at Harbour Freight. If you want to buy it online, they have them on Amazon. Here is a newer link: amzn.to/3HlkOxM
So the car will know which tire is in each place when you're through? (i.e. you tire pressure will display the tires correctly) I thought you had to go into the service panel and somehow tell it which tire is where.
Solution: press the car icon (lower left) to pull up the menu, select Service, then Wheel and Tires, go to Tires page. It will tell you how to reset the tires after a rotation. (While having a key present, which can be your key card or phone, press the brake and hit the "update" button)
Thanks for the heads up. That video is over a year old, so prices have doubled since I posted it. However, the version sold now is a better version than the one I have. The new ones are powder coated and look more professional. I still think they’re worth getting. Just buy one and do one side at a time. 🤷🏻♂️😎
My 2019 Model X on staggered wheels, can not be rotated. Not left to right either. Tires have an inside and a roadside to them. X on factory staggered wheels can not be rotated at all.
Yes and No. You can not rotate front to back like I did. You may be able to lift both sides and rotate them from drivers side to passenger side and vice versa. If your tires are not a directional tread pattern, this will work. If your tires ARE directional, and staggered, then you will not be able to do any tire rotations. The basic reason for tire rotations is to make the tread on your tires last longer. If you can not rotate them, you will need to buy new tires more often. Not the end of the world, but can get pricey.
My time is priceless, so doing this job whenever I want in my garage, and feeling the satisfaction of a job well done is worth the cost of these tools that I can use for other jobs too. That’s just my opinion. Lol. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Wouldn't it be safer to lower the jack on the jackstand and change one corner at a time? Will jacking the front lift the back end enough to fit the jackstand in the back?
Because a Tesla has a rigid battery pack that runs the length of the car, I can jack up the front, and it will also raise the back. So yes, I jack up the front high enough to fit a jack stand under the back of the car and lower the front until the weight sits on that rear jack stand.
The sensors at each hub automatically adjust to read the nearest tire. If it doesn’t for some reason , there’s a “reset tpms sensor” button in the Service menu.
I wouldn’t recommend leaving it for a long time. I use it long enough to rotate the tire. I wouldn’t use it like this to work on suspension or brakes. If you need to use it for a longer time, they do make something called a jack safety stop. It’s a bar that reinforces the jack.
My brother has (had now) a Tesla. He said front and back tires have different widths and after rotation there was frame damage up front due to tires being tok wide and rubbing in frame and control components
Not all Teslas are the same. Maybe a Model S has a staggered wheel setup, but the generic Model 3 or Y should be a square setup (all wheels the same size). Take a minute to read the sidewall of the tires to make sure they match before rotating them yourself. If they are all the same (like mine), you can rotate them in any direction. However, if the rear tires are wider than the front, then you can only rotate them left to right, and not front to back.
Yes, but be careful that it doesn’t slide off the jack. These Tesla pucks have a nub in the middle that inserts in a hole under the car to keep the puck from moving while being jacked up.
No, the car just looks for a Tire Pressure Management Sensor (TPMS) at each hub. It doesn't recognize the front wheel as a "front wheel"...it just recognizes it as a wheel. So you can move that wheel to any corner of the car, and the car will recognize it. Now if you replace the TPMS with a new one, you can reset the TPMS in the car settings so it learns the new TPMS. When it gets really cold out and I lose air pressure, I'll put air back in the tire and then reset the TPMS so it sees the new air pressure levels. But that's really the only time I reset it.
We just bought a Model X, so I will eventually try this. My theory is still the same though. Even the Model S and X have a flat rigid battery pack that extends across the bottom of the car, so my theory is that it will not flex and lift the opposite end up. You may need a stronger jack that can handle more weight, but the chassis is still just as rigid.
@@aminesaib Thanks for sharing. Yeah, the X is a super heavy vehicle, so it may just be so heavy that it flexes that battery pack. I'll have to test it out and see for myself. Luckily, I already have a couple of floor jacks in my garage, so I won't need to rush out and buy another.
I do not trust any shop, but just like anything else, I do my research first and read reviews. I’ve done alignments before, and it’s not hard as long as you have the right equipment and factory specifications. Most alignment shops have the equipment, but not the Tesla factory specs in their alignment database. If you can find a shop with both, then I wouldn’t have a problem taking it there.
The factory recommends 129flb because of the vehicles weight and the amount of HP and TQ the motors put out. I also have a Miata, so it’s lightweight and low on power. It’s lugs are only torqued to about 85flb.
No need to be concerned. The car will read the TPMS regardless of where the tire is located on the car. I will say that its a good idea to check your tire pressure levels inside the car to make sure they are at the level they should be (for my car it should be 42psi). I forgot to check mine, so I'm paying the consequence. I had over inflated the rear tires so they are now smoother toward the middle of the tread. Doh!
@@BecauseTesla so how does the TPMS sensor know where it is if the tires were rotated? In other words as you know on the Tesla’s screen you get the tire pressure for each tire but if the tires are rotated and the sensors don’t know they’ve been moved well …guess I’m not getting it.
Get in your car, and before you drive it, look at the tire pressure on your screen. It will be blank. Once you start to drive it, it will re-read it to get a new reading. It does not save the data to show you the same pressure from when you last drove it. This is by design...if you run over a nail, you want it to read it right away so you know to pull over. I had a 1 psi more air in my rear passenger side tire than the other tires. After rotating them, that 1 psi extra air tire is now showing up on the front passenger side. I didn't have to reset anything; the car just reads it.
I know that the TPMS sends out a low frequency radio signal with it's reading from the tire, and I think there is a wiring harness with a sensor at all 4 hubs, and that sensor reads the closest tpms signal (the wheel attached to that hub), so it shouldn't matter which wheel I move where. That sensor will just read the closest TPMS to that sensor at the hub. Hopefully that makes better sense. Let me know if I confused you more...LOL...I have a tendency to do that.
Most men like to work on our own cars. Once you buy a Tesla this is our only chance to work on our car because there's so little maintenance. Don't be so afraid to get your hands dirty.
Late to comment here but I will mention an important point for everyone to read. The first time you take your brand new car to a shop and you watch the idiot set his impact wrench to the maximum torque setting. Then you see him take the first lug nut and fully tighten it down ALL THE WAY! He doesn't bother to hand tighten the lug nuts first and make sure that the wheel is properly aligned. Then he precedes to put all the other lug nuts down at 200 plus foot pounds bending the heck out of your rim, studs, and even possibly warping your brake rotors. I have not seen a single mechanic properly center the rim on the studs in over 30 years! Here is the proper way to do it! 1. Put Tire onto the studs. 2. Hand tighten all lug nuts until they stop. 3. With the palms of your hands. Start banging on the side walls of the tire all around in a circle many times. This vibration helps to center the rim on the studs perfectly. 4. Continue alternating between banging on the side walls with your palms of your hands all around in a circle and hand tightening the lug nuts until they will no longer go down anymore. 5. Then, and ONLY then, do you snug them up more and lower the tire to touch the ground. 6. Proceed with tightening the lug nuts in a star pattern. You want to start at roughly 30 foot pounds first. Do two or three intervals working up to the manufacturer's recommended torque spec. THAT is how you properly center a rim on the studs and tighten it down without messing anything up!
Dude, you NEVER want to rotate tires in an X-pattern because you are reversing the direction of roll on the tires. Many tires specifically state what the rolling direction is because the tires is specifically designed to roll one direction only. Additionally by reversing roll direction you could cause the belts or the foam inside to shift. And no, I don't like your shirt design. The masks were useless during Covid except for maybe a sick person not coughing or sneezing fluids onto anyone. Even N-95 masks are designed to filter out BACTERIA, not viruses which are exponentially smaller than bacteria (Biologist here).
Good call on the star pattern for tightening. For those new to torque wrenches, it’s best to torque the lugs in 3 stages, with 129 ft-lbs not being done until last. Be sure to re-torque the wheels after 50 miles or so. Finally, it’s good practice to store your wrench at 0 ft-lbs.
Just a word of caution on re-torquing after 50 miles… Remember you’re trying to overcome 129 ft-lbs at the start and that could potentially lead to uneven torquing as you try to overcome the friction between nut & lug.
No, you should never go lower than the minimum torque setting for the wrench. Fully loosening the mechanism will affect the calibration. Store the wrench at its lowest setting, no lower.
Thanks you Erik your very good to explain all your projects. I am from Québec in Canada and learn english with your explanations. You speak lourd and very cleary all the word you say. I have à Tesla model 3 long range black with the internal white 2019 at 30,000km. I love my car and I will never buy a gaz car anymore. Thanks again and watting your next vidéo. Sorry if I maid some spelling, I speak french and and a bit english.
Merci beaucoup, Reynald. Je parle un peu français, mais pas aussi bien que vous parlez anglais.
Car is shifted in “Park”, how come tire are turning?
There are a few things I think I should mention about tires. There are two types of tire setups on cars: Square = all 4 tires/wheels are the same size, and Staggerd = the front 2 tires are a different size than the rear 2 tires (usually thinner tires on the front, fatter tires on the back). This video talks about a square setup. If you have staggered wheels/tires, then you may be able to lift both sides of the car and rotate the tires from the driver's side to the passenger side on both front and rear tires. However, regardless if you have a square or staggered setup, you need to look at your tires to see if they have a directional tread. Tire manufacturers usually have an arrow on the sidewall of the tire to show which direction the tire should be facing if there is a directional tread pattern. The factory tires on my Tesla are non-directional (no arrow on the sidewall), so I can move them anywhere on the car with no problems. If you have a square setup with directional tires, you can only rotate them from front to back. If you have a staggered setup with directional tires, you can not rotate your tires at all. You will have to buy new tires when the tread gets low. If you want me to make a part 2 that explains this in more detail, let me know with a thumbs up.
Hi... Glad to hear that those tyres are going to get replaced. (soon is too far away) They are well worse than "insurance spec" - (just the 2 we saw) - lol... Getting to grips with your own vehicle is the best safety enhancer - "Smooth" tyres are illegal, also very slippery in the wet, and more likely to incur punctures due to the reduced rubber (land) thickness..
Indeed, Alignment needed, and lower rear pressure... (Why would one take a car to tesla to get tyres sorted, a local tyre installer is usually more convenient and better at doing this task).
Re. "Staggered tyres" (directional) - or "Square" config. with Directional tyres ... If one wants to swap the tyres side to side to improve wear / utilisation - keeping rotational direction correct -, it should be noted that flipping the tyre on the rim (best done by a tyre shop, unless you are an extraordinarily well equipped owner) maintains correct direction..
Even with non directional tyres, IF the outer edge is getting hammered by driving style, frequency of roundabouts, or choice of alignment; a rim flip (or tyre flip if you prefer) changes the outer edge of the tyre. Whether or not you will ever get "value" in doing this, well that depends on motivation. - you may keep your tyre carcase out of third world landfill (or children's playground) for a little longer.
cheers.
Dangerous tires you’re running there. New tires and alignment are needed now rather than “eventually.”
You're right about that. I live life on the edge...lol...so by "eventually" I mean within the next couple of weeks. Not immediately like tomorrow. I should be fine, and in the mean time, I can pack my spare tire kit (I made a video about it) in my trunk to take with me until I can get new tires. I want to spend some time researching which tires to get and where to get them from.
Can I use a 1200kg limit jack for the model y? It's half the Car already.
Where is the link for NFT one/one? Thank tou
rarible.com/becausetesla
Great video, as always, Erik. I am close to the 10,000 km mentioned, but I think I will do the rotation later: I'll watch your video again then. I have a question ... How did you remove the aerowheels from the screen? :O
You’re very observant. I have another video coming out very soon that will show you how. 😎
@@BecauseTesla Waiting for that... Thank your Erik :)
But how will you do the tire and wheel balance?
You don't. Tire and wheel balance is usually done when you put a new tire on the wheel, so I'll let the tire shop do that when I buy new tires. Tire rotation is completely different. Tire rotation helps even out the tread so it doesn't wear uneven in spots. It saves the lifespan of the tire.
Shouldn't put all the vehicle weight on the tire went torquing the lugs. Just put enough weight on the tires so it won't spin when on the ground and wheel can move in towards the rotor and properly tighten.
Of *course* tesla doesn't bother having center jack point so you can get stands under the car without issue. And obviously they need to have the world's smallest lift points so you need an adapter to use your jack and have no means of fitting a jack stand in with the jack on the same corner. And just for fun make the adapter different from the model S and model 3 because you can.
You're right. A lot of improvements can be made in that area.
Late to comment here but I will mention an important point for everyone to read.
The first time you take your brand new car to a shop and you watch the idiot set his impact wrench to the maximum torque setting.
Then you see him take the first lug nut and fully tighten it down ALL THE WAY! He doesn't bother to hand tighten the lug nuts first and make sure that the wheel is properly aligned.
Then he precedes to put all the other lug nuts down at 200 plus foot pounds bending the heck out of your rim, studs, and even possibly warping your brake rotors.
I have not seen a single mechanic properly center the rim on the studs in over 30 years!
Here is the proper way to do it!
1. Put Tire onto the studs.
2. Hand tighten all lug nuts until they stop.
3. With the palms of your hands. Start banging on the side walls of the tire all around in a circle many times. This vibration helps to center the rim on the studs perfectly.
4. Continue alternating between banging on the side walls with your palms of your hands all around in a circle and hand tightening the lug nuts until they will no longer go down anymore.
5. Then, and ONLY then, do you snug them up more and lower the tire to touch the ground.
6. Proceed with tightening the lug nuts in a star pattern. You want to start at roughly 30 foot pounds first. Do two or three intervals working up to the manufacturer's recommended torque spec.
THAT is how you properly center a rim on the studs and tighten it down without messing anything up!
One thing to mention to your viewers should be to be aware of what type of tires you have on the car, are they directional or non-directional? Directional tires are only rotated front to back, back to front and stay on the same side of the car. Non-directional should be rotated both fronts to back same side and both rears to front in an X pattern.
That's great advice. I know I have mentioned directional tires in other videos, but for some reason left it out here. Probably because most factory tires on Teslas are non-directional, so I forgot to mention that. Thanks for pointing that out! Very important!
Did you actully put that obviously dangerous tyre back on your car? Unbelievable!
Wanted to see if I needed two jacks to do a rotation, first one that answered the question. Thanks!
THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU! Great video. Just wanted to make sure I don't screw up my first tire rotation on my 2023 Model Y. Now I'm going to to out and do this myself instead of going to my nearby tire store. I've got an air wrench, the jack pads, and the correct socket, so I should be good to go.
Same! I'm at 6,244 on my 2023 Model Y LR, and I'm gonna do it myself. Got a little worried when I saw he had 2 jacks... As I only have one low profile jack, but the rigidity of our vehicles is amazing! I'm gonna use a jack stand as well with a 2nd Puck. Haven't used my torque wrench in a while... Hope it's still calibrated properly.
Replacing these tires soon? How about today? No sense rotating a tire that is worn and has a nail embedded.
Always enjoy your thorough explanations, but be careful buddy. Those tires didn’t need rotating, they need replacement and alignment. Be careful.
Thanks, agreed. I just placed an order online for new tires, so hopefully later this week I'll have them on the car.
@@BecauseTesla Which tires did you order and from who? Thanks.
@@jamespeterson7100 I'm going to try out the Michelin Pilot Sport All Season 4. They're still an all-season tire but has a lot more performance than the stock tires. They got great reviews online, so I'll give them a try. I ordered them from TireRack.
@@BecauseTesla Ok thanks! I will get those when I need them. I’m still pushing 4000 miles so I have a ways to go. 😄
Great video. With a similar setup how long can you keep the car jacked? Thinking of painting calipers which could take 2 - 4 hours with wheels removed on one side.
Thank you Erik for posting this , i you are right about the rotation schedule , is not that many miles for rotation and it can get costly to have Tesla or another shop do the rotation not to mention the time.
That little nail would be enough for me to change out the tire(s)...
I can't tell if your serious or not with that shirt
Thank you for your video. Your descriptions and video work was great and I feel a lot better about doing my own tire rotations now. I didn't know about that jack stand adapters, so that is something I will look into now. Thanks again!
How do you update the tire sensor locations?
Oh man, replace those tires! Thank you for the vid though!
I replaced them 3 days after making that video. Yeah, they were past due. Thanks for watching!
50$? they're charging me 500 bucks
$50 for tire rotation is typical. Some are free at some places. Don’t pay $500. Watch my video and learn how to do it free the rest of your life. Don’t get taken advantage of!
I got pucks but my jack would not fit under car cause of those pucks
Buy a 2x6 wood plank at hardware store. Cut with saw and make two mini ramps. Drive wheels into mini ramps for more clearance under vehicle. Proceed with maintenance. 😉
You best should define your flavor of Tesla as some have bigger tires on the back plus you did not mention the automatic self leveling system that needs to be safed on some.
Not good on any car Bro !
Hi, thanks, I had not realised how stiff the car is. Eye opening. Pity that there is not a central jack point under the sill. You could use two jacks I guess for added security but never, ever, get any part of your body under a car only held up by hydraulic jacks. You are relying on the jack valve not failing. The old style screw jacks are safer in that respect. For real peace of mind you can now get a combined hydraulic jack and pin lockable axle stand - just search for 'axle jack stand'. About £90 over here, just over $100 US. Two of those would make this job even easier - and even that much safer. The only downside of tyre rotation is that on an AWD they will all need replacing at the same time. That's around £1,000 here and I guess around $1,000 US.
Michelin tires wear way too fast for me
I now have Pirellis on. They seem to be holding up well.
hi, thank you for this video. i'm trying to order through the amazon links but have a q. for the torque wrench, there is 10-150 lbs vs. 25-250lbs. if Tesla wants it at 129, is it okay to buy the 10-150 lb wrench? its significantly cheaper.
One of the most informative videos I've ever viewed, thanks
Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for this . Very thorough and I appreciate the links for all the tools.
These are the set of tires you don’t rotate. Instead, must be replaced right away because they’re so freaking worn out that they’ve become extremely dangerous!
Thank you for this. I used 2 pucks and added a jack stand then made sure both jack stand and my carjack are evening the load. Also, 16:00 required my full body weight and a few push to get mine to click. 😅 I recalibrated to 100 ft-lb and incremented 10 ft-lb then 9 ft-lb to see if it was working properly and it did. Its just my post-covid strength struggled around ~125 ft-lb.
actually tesla quoted me $65 here in LA CALIFORNIA. 9.13.23
Nice video, does Tesla say anything about direction of rotation? My old Pontiac recommended a cross rotation. Drop front tires straight back and cross cross the rears forward.
If you have a RWD car, you can do the cross swap, and if you have an AWD car you can do a front to back swap. I can't remember if I read that in a Tesla document or a forum, but that's what I'm going with.
@@BecauseTesla that sounds reasonable. Thanks!
Nice to see you have a Tesla, Richie Boogeyman Martinez. :)
It's funny that you have a tesla but you are saving pennies. I appreciate it though. I might use your information. Hope you look up Boogeyman, I thought that was funny.
LOL
Good video. I did not know that jacking one end wih lift the entire side. Handy if a flat makes that location too low for the jack.
white/chrome color looks so good
I can't believe that you actually used those tires after noticing how bald they were! All those tires should have been replaced at least 5,000 miles ago! And worse, you actually rotated the balder tire to the front? Your in for a world of hurt if\when they blow out.
Look at the age of that video. Those tires are long gone. The point of the video was to show how to do it. I replaced the tires in less than a week.
what if i really liked it and hit the thumbs up twice? Nah just liked it once.
The link for the low profile Jack doesn’t work. Can you please provide the make/model or a link? Thanks!!
Mine is a Pittsburgh low profile jack. If you want to find one locally, they sell them at Harbour Freight. If you want to buy it online, they have them on Amazon. Here is a newer link: amzn.to/3HlkOxM
Great video thank you 👍
So the car will know which tire is in each place when you're through? (i.e. you tire pressure will display the tires correctly) I thought you had to go into the service panel and somehow tell it which tire is where.
Solution: press the car icon (lower left) to pull up the menu, select Service, then Wheel and Tires, go to Tires page. It will tell you how to reset the tires after a rotation. (While having a key present, which can be your key card or phone, press the brake and hit the "update" button)
Anyone who knows Nikola Tesla, knows he wouldn’t have worn a mask. Good video anyhow 👌🏼
You know Nikola Tesla? Awesome 🤩
Or I just make the shirt and I own it too lol
What if you don’t have the Jack stand adapter?
a pair for under $50 hey? I just followed your ebay link and they're $65 each.
Thanks for the heads up. That video is over a year old, so prices have doubled since I posted it. However, the version sold now is a better version than the one I have. The new ones are powder coated and look more professional. I still think they’re worth getting. Just buy one and do one side at a time. 🤷🏻♂️😎
My 2019 Model X on staggered wheels, can not be rotated. Not left to right either. Tires have an inside and a roadside to them. X on factory staggered wheels can not be rotated at all.
Yes and No. You can not rotate front to back like I did. You may be able to lift both sides and rotate them from drivers side to passenger side and vice versa. If your tires are not a directional tread pattern, this will work. If your tires ARE directional, and staggered, then you will not be able to do any tire rotations. The basic reason for tire rotations is to make the tread on your tires last longer. If you can not rotate them, you will need to buy new tires more often. Not the end of the world, but can get pricey.
Getting all those tools is more expensive than probably 6 years of tyre rotation.
My time is priceless, so doing this job whenever I want in my garage, and feeling the satisfaction of a job well done is worth the cost of these tools that I can use for other jobs too. That’s just my opinion. Lol. Thanks for watching and commenting.
16:50 ... is that a real blood stain on the floor?
Thank you, answered my question.
Wouldn't it be safer to lower the jack on the jackstand and change one corner at a time? Will jacking the front lift the back end enough to fit the jackstand in the back?
Because a Tesla has a rigid battery pack that runs the length of the car, I can jack up the front, and it will also raise the back. So yes, I jack up the front high enough to fit a jack stand under the back of the car and lower the front until the weight sits on that rear jack stand.
What about the reading for the PSI in the car after you changed the tire location?
The sensors at each hub automatically adjust to read the nearest tire. If it doesn’t for some reason , there’s a “reset tpms sensor” button in the Service menu.
Thanks for the straight-forward vid. Clear and concise. But how often do you need to rotate the tires on the red Big Flyer and fancy pink car?
I dedicate an entire day to rotate the tires on ALL of our vehicles. So they’re all on the same schedule. 😉
How long can you leave the car in the low profile jack without the jack stands?
I wouldn’t recommend leaving it for a long time. I use it long enough to rotate the tire. I wouldn’t use it like this to work on suspension or brakes. If you need to use it for a longer time, they do make something called a jack safety stop. It’s a bar that reinforces the jack.
My brother has (had now) a Tesla. He said front and back tires have different widths and after rotation there was frame damage up front due to tires being tok wide and rubbing in frame and control components
Not all Teslas are the same. Maybe a Model S has a staggered wheel setup, but the generic Model 3 or Y should be a square setup (all wheels the same size). Take a minute to read the sidewall of the tires to make sure they match before rotating them yourself. If they are all the same (like mine), you can rotate them in any direction. However, if the rear tires are wider than the front, then you can only rotate them left to right, and not front to back.
Performance models tend to have wider tires in the back.
thanks for the video , can i use a hockey puck instead?
Yes, but be careful that it doesn’t slide off the jack. These Tesla pucks have a nub in the middle that inserts in a hole under the car to keep the puck from moving while being jacked up.
Great video!👍 thanks!
Do you have to do anything with the air pressure transmitters?
No, the car just looks for a Tire Pressure Management Sensor (TPMS) at each hub. It doesn't recognize the front wheel as a "front wheel"...it just recognizes it as a wheel. So you can move that wheel to any corner of the car, and the car will recognize it. Now if you replace the TPMS with a new one, you can reset the TPMS in the car settings so it learns the new TPMS.
When it gets really cold out and I lose air pressure, I'll put air back in the tire and then reset the TPMS so it sees the new air pressure levels. But that's really the only time I reset it.
With a Mosel S/X you will probably need to use both jacks to get two wheels off the ground.
We just bought a Model X, so I will eventually try this. My theory is still the same though. Even the Model S and X have a flat rigid battery pack that extends across the bottom of the car, so my theory is that it will not flex and lift the opposite end up. You may need a stronger jack that can handle more weight, but the chassis is still just as rigid.
@@BecauseTesla congrats on that model X.
I tried it on my model S and it didn't work. I bought a second jack.
@@aminesaib Thanks for sharing. Yeah, the X is a super heavy vehicle, so it may just be so heavy that it flexes that battery pack. I'll have to test it out and see for myself. Luckily, I already have a couple of floor jacks in my garage, so I won't need to rush out and buy another.
So would you trust just any shop to do your alignment?
I do not trust any shop, but just like anything else, I do my research first and read reviews. I’ve done alignments before, and it’s not hard as long as you have the right equipment and factory specifications. Most alignment shops have the equipment, but not the Tesla factory specs in their alignment database. If you can find a shop with both, then I wouldn’t have a problem taking it there.
wow, 129flb is a lot for wheel stud
The factory recommends 129flb because of the vehicles weight and the amount of HP and TQ the motors put out. I also have a Miata, so it’s lightweight and low on power. It’s lugs are only torqued to about 85flb.
Very detailed video
It wont damage the battery like bend the battery?
No, the battery pack was designed for this.
Great video, thank you.
No need to be concerned about the TPMS?
No need to be concerned. The car will read the TPMS regardless of where the tire is located on the car. I will say that its a good idea to check your tire pressure levels inside the car to make sure they are at the level they should be (for my car it should be 42psi). I forgot to check mine, so I'm paying the consequence. I had over inflated the rear tires so they are now smoother toward the middle of the tread. Doh!
@@BecauseTesla so how does the TPMS sensor know where it is if the tires were rotated? In other words as you know on the Tesla’s screen you get the tire pressure for each tire but if the tires are rotated and the sensors don’t know they’ve been moved well …guess I’m not getting it.
Get in your car, and before you drive it, look at the tire pressure on your screen. It will be blank. Once you start to drive it, it will re-read it to get a new reading. It does not save the data to show you the same pressure from when you last drove it. This is by design...if you run over a nail, you want it to read it right away so you know to pull over. I had a 1 psi more air in my rear passenger side tire than the other tires. After rotating them, that 1 psi extra air tire is now showing up on the front passenger side. I didn't have to reset anything; the car just reads it.
I know that the TPMS sends out a low frequency radio signal with it's reading from the tire, and I think there is a wiring harness with a sensor at all 4 hubs, and that sensor reads the closest tpms signal (the wheel attached to that hub), so it shouldn't matter which wheel I move where. That sensor will just read the closest TPMS to that sensor at the hub. Hopefully that makes better sense. Let me know if I confused you more...LOL...I have a tendency to do that.
@@BecauseTesla it does make sense. Thank you. Of course I need to test the tires after they’ve been stationary for about 30(?) minutes.
Call a mobile tyre rotator or just get tesla to come out to your work place no time wasted and its so cheap. Screw doing yourself not worth it.
Most men like to work on our own cars. Once you buy a Tesla this is our only chance to work on our car because there's so little maintenance. Don't be so afraid to get your hands dirty.
@@kickeramps most Americans do this u mean for the rest of the world we have no time for that shit
Late to comment here but I will mention an important point for everyone to read.
The first time you take your brand new car to a shop and you watch the idiot set his impact wrench to the maximum torque setting.
Then you see him take the first lug nut and fully tighten it down ALL THE WAY! He doesn't bother to hand tighten the lug nuts first and make sure that the wheel is properly aligned.
Then he precedes to put all the other lug nuts down at 200 plus foot pounds bending the heck out of your rim, studs, and even possibly warping your brake rotors.
I have not seen a single mechanic properly center the rim on the studs in over 30 years!
Here is the proper way to do it!
1. Put Tire onto the studs.
2. Hand tighten all lug nuts until they stop.
3. With the palms of your hands. Start banging on the side walls of the tire all around in a circle many times. This vibration helps to center the rim on the studs perfectly.
4. Continue alternating between banging on the side walls with your palms of your hands all around in a circle and hand tightening the lug nuts until they will no longer go down anymore.
5. Then, and ONLY then, do you snug them up more and lower the tire to touch the ground.
6. Proceed with tightening the lug nuts in a star pattern. You want to start at roughly 30 foot pounds first. Do two or three intervals working up to the manufacturer's recommended torque spec.
THAT is how you properly center a rim on the studs and tighten it down without messing anything up!
Pro tip: even if you're breaking the bolts loose. Never go in a circle. Always go in a star pattern for both loosing and tightening the lug nuts.
@gardenstatePRas an engineer, I really don't think loosening matters... your Pro tip is stupid.
That makes no sense it doesn’t matter dude that’s not a pro tip that’s an opinion
That tire scrub on the inside or outside (depending on camber setup and driven wheels) is much more likely the result of excess corning speed.
Dude, you NEVER want to rotate tires in an X-pattern because you are reversing the direction of roll on the tires. Many tires specifically state what the rolling direction is because the tires is specifically designed to roll one direction only. Additionally by reversing roll direction you could cause the belts or the foam inside to shift. And no, I don't like your shirt design. The masks were useless during Covid except for maybe a sick person not coughing or sneezing fluids onto anyone. Even N-95 masks are designed to filter out BACTERIA, not viruses which are exponentially smaller than bacteria (Biologist here).
Great video! Going to grab some of these pucks or maybe that adapter for roadside emergency flats
Is there any programming for the TPS sensors or are they are automatic detection?
They are automatically detected. If you run into any issues, you can reset the TPS on your screen by clicking the "service" setting and then TPS.
Was hard to take this serious with the shirt on. But, alas we gotta ignore some things for information for those of us less handy
I could make a new video with no shirt, but I’m sure you wouldn’t like the price of an Only Fans subscription. 🤣